Thanks a lot for the video. I had no idea what are those tabs and two screws for and no clear picture or instruction for it. Was totally confused how to install. All cleared up now.
Thank you for this insight. My neighbor told me i had to drill holes thorugh the back of the box to install. With no instructions i was wondering what the 2 screw and mini brakets were for. I did think it was odd to have to drill through the metal!
Same problem here! I even tried the technique shown here, but the provided screws were a really tight fit for the mounting holes, so I thought I was doing something wrong. Nice to see I was on the right track. :)
Hi! What about the locknut of the connector? UL requires that the locknut has to be installed always when the fitting is fabricated and tested that way. That kind of boxes should only be used with threaded raceways like IMC or RMC.
When using rigid PVC and a generic weatherproof pull box with no access holes, how do you drill the holes for the rigid PVC conduit entrance without losing your wet rating? There seem to be two styles of pvc fittings to adapt the rigid conduit to the PVC box, threaded and unthreaded. Both are glued to the conduit, and the threaded fittings pull tight to the box with a nut, the unthreaded are glued to the box. Am I correct to say that you want to use the unthreaded PVC fittings, and ultimately glue those fittings to both the box and the incoming PVC conduit? Would you still lose your wet rating if you were to glue the threaded fittings to the box as well as the conduit?
I never use those ears . It doesn't look good with those ears. There are two projections inside the box diagonally where they can be punch through easily like knockouts. That is where I put the screws.
Can't you also screw through the back of the box? If I remember correctly, there are two little nubs you can punch out and run a screw through. Though you'd have to add some sealent to keep it from leaking there
Not if you're using it as an exterior wet rated box. You have to be extremely careful with exterior boxes so that absolutely zero water gets into them.
I was at an IDEAL National Championships and saw a contestant win the finals on time but he took 2nd place instead, winning $25K instead of $75K partly because he didn't use the little ears on his wet rated box. Can you imagine losing $50K because of that? He also stepped on the top rung of a ladder during the contest though....
Bill i have a question, i have always drilled holes through these and then filled the drilled hole behind the screws with a lifetime warranty caulk when they were screwed down because i kept finding that the little screw and ears they came with would eventually pop out over and over when screwed down. IS screwing them down by drilling a hole in them and caulking against code?
I don't know of any such code. Just be super sure no water can get in. Also, there are some little indentations that are apparently made for screwing through, so I would use those.
Were you screwing them by hand? If you thread them in properly they shouldn't come out. Don't use a power drill, either. I have never had an issue with the ears.
Bill, great video and it made me think of a question. I replaced a receptacle under my kitchen sink today. There was rust on the receptacle and the copper was corroded. Are the boxes under a sink, which seems like a possibly wet location, supposed to be wet-rated like this box? I replaced the receptacle with an AFCI/GFCI and put a weatherproof cover on it.
1:37 What sucks about those metal ears and screw is that they are not coated and will totally rust out in damp locations. I just removed a box that was perfectly fine, but those dang rusted bits gave me the most trouble.
I have a refrigerator stored in my garage. It can only be on one wall. The receptacle is on an adjacent wall. Maybe 15 feet away. The fridge tag lists 4.5 amps 115V source and single phase. Garage/Den breaker switch is a 15 amp. The dedicated kitchen refrigerator/GFI breaker switch is 20 amp. My first thought is to use a 10 or 12 gauge extension cord. Would this be OK? My second thought is to run surface mounted EMT conduit and a metal receptacle box to the wall by the fridge. I'm not sure what an average price electricians charge for this? Any thoughts on these two options?
I hate those ears. They don't make a solid connection, and they are useless for mounting to a strut channel frame. At the very least they should give you four.
Thanks a lot for the video. I had no idea what are those tabs and two screws for and no clear picture or instruction for it. Was totally confused how to install. All cleared up now.
Thanks for the video. The directions call them lugs, but in manufacturing, lugs are used to move something. You calling them ears helped.
Thank you for this insight. My neighbor told me i had to drill holes thorugh the back of the box to install. With no instructions i was wondering what the 2 screw and mini brakets were for. I did think it was odd to have to drill through the metal!
No problem, thanks!
Hi,
Man, it's nice learning new things on your channel.
Thanks for all the videos.
My pleasure, thanks Michael!
thank you so much for this video, the instructions that came with it didn't say what the tabs were for!
I know, there is just a little package of tabs! LOL!
Same problem here! I even tried the technique shown here, but the provided screws were a really tight fit for the mounting holes, so I thought I was doing something wrong. Nice to see I was on the right track. :)
Hi! What about the locknut of the connector? UL requires that the locknut has to be installed always when the fitting is fabricated and tested that way. That kind of boxes should only be used with threaded raceways like IMC or RMC.
Would that method work for outdoors??
OMG! I feel like such the idiot! I wondered how you mounted the box and had no idea those ears/brackets were for that purpose!!! Thank you so much!
No problem, thanks!
When using rigid PVC and a generic weatherproof pull box with no access holes, how do you drill the holes for the rigid PVC conduit entrance without losing your wet rating? There seem to be two styles of pvc fittings to adapt the rigid conduit to the PVC box, threaded and unthreaded. Both are glued to the conduit, and the threaded fittings pull tight to the box with a nut, the unthreaded are glued to the box. Am I correct to say that you want to use the unthreaded PVC fittings, and ultimately glue those fittings to both the box and the incoming PVC conduit? Would you still lose your wet rating if you were to glue the threaded fittings to the box as well as the conduit?
Hi! You really need to use a UL rated exterior box with threaded holes.
What connector is used - tapered thread on that box to EMT?
Code violation. You have to use raintite compression with EMT with these exterior Bell style boxes.
The outlet box has pipe threads which are tapered. However emt fittings have straight threads. Did you just tighten the fitting until it bottomed out?
I never use those ears . It doesn't look good with those ears. There are two projections inside the box diagonally where they can be punch through easily like knockouts. That is where I put the screws.
Thanks!
Can't you also screw through the back of the box? If I remember correctly, there are two little nubs you can punch out and run a screw through. Though you'd have to add some sealent to keep it from leaking there
Not if you're using it as an exterior wet rated box. You have to be extremely careful with exterior boxes so that absolutely zero water gets into them.
I was at an IDEAL National Championships and saw a contestant win the finals on time but he took 2nd place instead, winning $25K instead of $75K partly because he didn't use the little ears on his wet rated box. Can you imagine losing $50K because of that? He also stepped on the top rung of a ladder during the contest though....
Good video Sparky. Thanks for all of the great information.
Thanks Gary!
Bill i have a question, i have always drilled holes through these and then filled the drilled hole behind the screws with a lifetime warranty caulk when they were screwed down because i kept finding that the little screw and ears they came with would eventually pop out over and over when screwed down. IS screwing them down by drilling a hole in them and caulking against code?
I don't know of any such code. Just be super sure no water can get in. Also, there are some little indentations that are apparently made for screwing through, so I would use those.
Were you screwing them by hand? If you thread them in properly they shouldn't come out. Don't use a power drill, either. I have never had an issue with the ears.
Just what I needed, Thanks!
Bill, great video and it made me think of a question. I replaced a receptacle under my kitchen sink today. There was rust on the receptacle and the copper was corroded. Are the boxes under a sink, which seems like a possibly wet location, supposed to be wet-rated like this box? I replaced the receptacle with an AFCI/GFCI and put a weatherproof cover on it.
Hi Jerry! I don't know of a wet rating for such boxes but you're wise to make the box as waterproof as possible. Great job!
1:37 What sucks about those metal ears and screw is that they are not coated and will totally rust out in damp locations. I just removed a box that was perfectly fine, but those dang rusted bits gave me the most trouble.
I agree with you! I hope a manufacturer comes out with a better fastening system.
I have a refrigerator stored in my garage. It can only be on one wall. The receptacle is on an adjacent wall. Maybe 15 feet away. The fridge tag lists 4.5 amps 115V source and single phase. Garage/Den breaker switch is a 15 amp. The dedicated kitchen refrigerator/GFI breaker switch is 20 amp. My first thought is to use a 10 or 12 gauge extension cord. Would this be OK? My second thought is to run surface mounted EMT conduit and a metal receptacle box to the wall by the fridge. I'm not sure what an average price electricians charge for this? Any thoughts on these two options?
Ron Paul the electrician!!
Thanks Jason!
Thank you! I just got home with a metal box and asked myself "Where the heck are the ears!?"
Sounds good!
This is exactly what I needed. You're awesome, thanks!
You're very welcome!
Wouldn’t it have to be a wet rated connect too? Not a set screw
Yes, that's true.
The connecters need to be rain tight, yes? Silicone should be applied to the threads of the plugs, yes?
If the connectors are used outside, they do need to be weatherproof. Silicone on the threads is optional.
Read manufacturer's instructions. The wet rated boxes I've used at least direct you to use silicone on plugs if used outdoors.@@SparkyChannel
You don't need silicone. Rain tight connectors include a gasket between the flange and the box, sealing off the threads and the hole.
@@mg30ebay You need silicone for the knockout plugs. It states so right in the directions.
Thanks for sharing your videos
My pleasure, thanks!
Thank you for this video also for a nice view at the end
Thanks! That's the Grand Canyon.
Yes sir! Very helpful! 😀
Perfect. Thank you.
You're welcome, thanks!
Helpful! Thanks!
No worries!
Great video... I didn’t know about the ears. How to you like the Dewalt 12v Xtreme tools? I think Dewalt hit a home run with the line.
I'm surprised at the power per oz of tool that the DeWalt 12V Max has. Thanks!
But the emt 1 screw connector isnt wet proof though.
Good point but you don't have to put the wet rated box in a wet location. You can put one in a garage, for instance.
I hate those ears. They don't make a solid connection, and they are useless for mounting to a strut channel frame. At the very least they should give you four.
Thank you so much!!
doesn't look WET rated. ??
It is. I use them all the time.
The box is wet rated but that setscrew connector is not
@@davidgee4601 have to use a compression connector, right ?
@@cebsaint yes with a gasket