+Jay Williams Finishing the knurling tool project, heat treat, assembly and demonstration is definitely on my list. I have a few other parts that need anodizing, so maybe I'll throw the knurling tool parts in with them. I plan on becoming permanently unemployed next year, so there will be a lot more time for these things. :) Right now I just take it when I can. Tom
Watching the workflow come so easily and fast is awesome. I decided I really need to buy a DRO for my 8520, learning to use the dials the past few years was great but this video convinced me of the speed and efficiency.
+russtuff Your terrible luck is likely due to the fact that you are using carbide. High speed steel boring bars, and tooling in general for the mill and lathe is more versatile, more forgiving and MUCH more economical than carbide for this type of work. About the only carbide I use is for very small end mills (smaller than 1/16"), or for end mills on tough or abrasive materials. Tom
It's a pleasure to watch the good clean living...nice work. I found it is always more fun when you can make your own drawings isn't it? There is no better way of exercising a drawing set than to build it yourself.
+Glenn Felpel Thanks Glenn. I actually do this stuff for a living so it comes pretty natural. I spent 23 years as a research machinist for a DOD contractor and worked the last 15 on a small (3) engineering/ design team for a bio-research instrumentation company in Ann Arbor. There is nothing more rewarding than to be involved in developing a product from concept to completion. Tom
+Kirk Douglas I still have to build the page, but it's been a while since I did one, so I'll have to figure it all out again. I did upload the prints though, so I can give you a link to those: tomstechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Scope_Mount_-_Clamp_Ring_Drawing_1.pdf tomstechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Scope_Mount_-_Base_Ring_Drawing_2.pdf
At 12:19 how do you know how far to wind the handle to get it going straight down and be on target? You move from one hole to the other so quickly. Have you set pre determined mechanical stops on your machine? I thought you were feeding it manually until I noticed you holding the drawings on both hands whilst it carried on. Is it a cnc machine? I've used an old lathe and mill many moons ago but my knowledge was long forgotten
It is a manual mill with a digital readout and the only stop being used is for the depth of the boring bar. In the part where you see it feeding by itself is just the power feed on the quill. Unlike in my project tutorials, I'm not working at a reduced rate on these parts, just my regular "business pace". On a mill with a DRO you don't have to worry about backlash, so you can move around pretty quickly. I'm retired now though, so I move around a bit slower. :) Tom
Great series! I have a question regarding calculating speed/feed when using a boring head. Does one calculate speed based on the size of the diameter of the setting on the boring bar? As one increases the diameter of the cut, would one reduce the speed? Or, are boring head bar cutters different than say a drill bit when calculating speed? Of course I have seen your excellent video regarding speeds and feeds, but perhaps this is different. I'm trying the "clean livin' " to improve my machining luck. Not working yet! hehe
+Jim Milne Hi Jim, As far as rpm is concerned, a boring head is exactly the same as an end mill or drill, or for that matter a part turning on a lathe. It's the speed of the tool relative to the surface of the work that matters, not the operation. Glad you enjoyed the series. I'm building a page on my website at this very moment to post the project and drawings. It can be found in the Project Tutorial tab under "Inspiration". I hope to have ready later tonight, but it's been a while since I did the webmaster thing. Tom
Sorry to labor you, but does "the tool" in the phrase you used "the speed of the tool relative to the surface" mean the cutting tip of the tool (and not the boring head "tool"). So, if I was cutting at 200 rpm and increased the size of the hole I was cutting, would I reduce the speed of the boring head? Remember, I'm a newbie, but learning fast from UA-cam machinists, my only teachers.
+Jim Milne You have it right. For mild steel for instance, the tool needs to travel along the surface of the work at about 100 surface feet per minute and the RPM formula converts that SFPM number to RPM. Consequently the RPM must be adjusted as the tool or work change size to maintain the same surface speed. Clear as mud? Tom
Are you planning on anodizing your knurling tool and demonstrating its use? Until you do that, I feel like my life is incomplete. :)
+Jay Williams
Finishing the knurling tool project, heat treat, assembly and demonstration is definitely on my list. I have a few other parts that need anodizing, so maybe I'll throw the knurling tool parts in with them. I plan on becoming permanently unemployed next year, so there will be a lot more time for these things. :) Right now I just take it when I can.
Tom
At ~11:30 - Can't beat "clean livin'" as a machining technique.
+Peter W. Meek
I don't know about "clean livin", but a little bit of luck never hurts. :)
Tom
Watching the workflow come so easily and fast is awesome. I decided I really need to buy a DRO for my 8520, learning to use the dials the past few years was great but this video convinced me of the speed and efficiency.
Are these brazed boring bars, and can you offer a recommendation on where to buy? I've had terrible luck with bars like this.
+russtuff
Your terrible luck is likely due to the fact that you are using carbide. High speed steel boring bars, and tooling in general for the mill and lathe is more versatile, more forgiving and MUCH more economical than carbide for this type of work. About the only carbide I use is for very small end mills (smaller than 1/16"), or for end mills on tough or abrasive materials.
Tom
+Toms Techniques You're right, I am. I'll knock it off :)
Hello sir
I would like know that which software do you use for drawing??
The solid modeling and drawings for the scope rings was done using Onshape.
TomT - not that familiar with rifles; did you have to remove the stock to allow access to the barrel diameter (RO .683)? :-)
No, more than half of it is exposed. That's not a critical dimension anyway, since most of it is relieved by the .375R.
Tom
It's a pleasure to watch the good clean living...nice work. I found it is always more fun when you can make your own drawings isn't it? There is no better way of exercising a drawing set than to build it yourself.
+Glenn Felpel
Thanks Glenn.
I actually do this stuff for a living so it comes pretty natural. I spent 23 years as a research machinist for a DOD contractor and worked the last 15 on a small (3) engineering/ design team for a bio-research instrumentation company in Ann Arbor. There is nothing more rewarding than to be involved in developing a product from concept to completion.
Tom
I couldn't find the prints on you website to follow along. Can you link it?
Thanks
+Kirk Douglas
I still have to build the page, but it's been a while since I did one, so I'll have to figure it all out again. I did upload the prints though, so I can give you a link to those:
tomstechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Scope_Mount_-_Clamp_Ring_Drawing_1.pdf
tomstechniques.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Scope_Mount_-_Base_Ring_Drawing_2.pdf
At 12:19 how do you know how far to wind the handle to get it going straight down and be on target? You move from one hole to the other so quickly. Have you set pre determined mechanical stops on your machine? I thought you were feeding it manually until I noticed you holding the drawings on both hands whilst it carried on. Is it a cnc machine? I've used an old lathe and mill many moons ago but my knowledge was long forgotten
It is a manual mill with a digital readout and the only stop being used is for the depth of the boring bar. In the part where you see it feeding by itself is just the power feed on the quill. Unlike in my project tutorials, I'm not working at a reduced rate on these parts, just my regular "business pace". On a mill with a DRO you don't have to worry about backlash, so you can move around pretty quickly. I'm retired now though, so I move around a bit slower. :)
Tom
Toms Techniques thanks Tom, your channel is very interesting and informative.
That made my head spin
Great series! I have a question regarding calculating speed/feed when using a boring head. Does one calculate speed based on the size of the diameter of the setting on the boring bar? As one increases the diameter of the cut, would one reduce the speed? Or, are boring head bar cutters different than say a drill bit when calculating speed? Of course I have seen your excellent video regarding speeds and feeds, but perhaps this is different. I'm trying the "clean livin' " to improve my machining luck. Not working yet! hehe
+Jim Milne
Hi Jim,
As far as rpm is concerned, a boring head is exactly the same as an end mill or drill, or for that matter a part turning on a lathe. It's the speed of the tool relative to the surface of the work that matters, not the operation.
Glad you enjoyed the series. I'm building a page on my website at this very moment to post the project and drawings. It can be found in the Project Tutorial tab under "Inspiration". I hope to have ready later tonight, but it's been a while since I did the webmaster thing.
Tom
Sorry to labor you, but does "the tool" in the phrase you used "the speed of the tool relative to the surface" mean the cutting tip of the tool (and not the boring head "tool"). So, if I was cutting at 200 rpm and increased the size of the hole I was cutting, would I reduce the speed of the boring head? Remember, I'm a newbie, but learning fast from UA-cam machinists, my only teachers.
+Jim Milne
You have it right. For mild steel for instance, the tool needs to travel along the surface of the work at about 100 surface feet per minute and the RPM formula converts that SFPM number to RPM. Consequently the RPM must be adjusted as the tool or work change size to maintain the same surface speed.
Clear as mud?
Tom
Now perfectly clear. Thank you. And, thank you for replying with kindness and not just a little patience.
love this video!!!
Thanks Hector