My diff started making some awful noises recently and was sluggish going in and out of difflock. This series gave me the confidence to tackle the repair and so far its going smoothly. Thank you for this incredible series! Note for my disco friends out there: the diff is removable without taking the transfer case or hi/lo gearset out. Makes for a much simpler job!
On n'utilise pas un extracteur classique pour enlever le roulement Timken mais utilise un décolle roulement et une presse hydraulique ça va bien plus vite . Par ailleurs travailler sur le carter en aluminium de la boite de transfert n'est pas un bon exemple sauf pour y mettre des pets de partout.
how much play should there be between front and rear drive flange when cdl is locked mine moves about 5 to 10 degrees but on the back flange it feels a bit crunchy initially when changing direction.
is there anything stopping me from taking the front housing off insitu and then replacing the centre diff brass shims and gears? my 2004 d2a manual has excessive backlash.. and depending on whether or not i find gold flakes in the transfer case, i will be replacing the shims as i suspect they have been destroyed.
I have a 03 D2 4.6l without any of the CDL parts. I have access to a complete 98 D1 to pull parts from. My question is, Can I pull the front cone off the transfer box and swap it into my D2 case? Has this been done before? Will it work?
the issue you have is that the hi low selector has a sensor in there that tells the ECU which range it is in and fuels accordingly. Best to get an Ashcrofts conversion if you want to have a manual hi lo selection.
***** Thanks for the response! So are you saying my D2 front cone has a high/low selector switch and the D1 does not? Or does the D1 have something different? In my research I've found some info on bypassing or deleting the sensor? Is that an option? If I could I'd like to pick your brain on this? Will the D1 front cone bolt up to my 03 without issue? Do I use the actual diff from my D2 with the D1 front cone? Will there be shims that will need to be adjusted to keep proper backlash and what not? The only reason I am planning on this swap is the ashcroft stuff is out of my budget and this complete D1 is 100% untouched and I will be the first person to touch it so I can have everything I need down to every nut and bolt, linkage, everything. Thanks for you time!!!
LT230 SE is the box you will have in the D2. Linkages are different for changing the diff lock over but the housing will be the same as the D1. Not much change in the design from the LT230 T but there are small differences. If you are serious to get a mechanical lever into place then having a donor box with all the lever attachments then you are winning. it would pay you to study the D2 workshop manual to see which switches / sensors that are fitted so you know what you are dealing with. Front housing doesn't need to be shimmed up when swapping over.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Great, thank you! I have the service manual pdf and I have been looking at it. Well, with your info, some other Rover guys input, I feel confident I can make this work!!! Videos to come!!!
I will be covering it too with our D2 but not sure if to keep with the electronics or have a manual diff lock. I think the control manually is better. I like the traction control on the D2 which I have seen in operation where others get cross- axle'd.
It was like this but cheaper at about £95 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-PS900-Bearing-Gear-Puller-Set-12Pc-Hand-Tool-Garage-Workshop-Equipment-/381918444667?hash=item58ec1cfc7b:g:1fUAAOSw2xRYc~FG
I'd like to stick one in an F250. It would have to be tough enough to handle 500 horsepower, 500 ft lbs of torque. It would also need a torsen style diff available from the aftermarket.
+Matt Allen It is sometimes more economical to get a reconditioned transmission than repair on unless you are going to upgrade it then DIY is the way to go. You can always get a cheap one to practice on if you so have a desire to do so. . No pressure then.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos How are you getting on with the rebuild of the Centre Diff? I'm still trying to decide whether to put an Ashcrofts' Torque Biasing jobbie or upgrade like you have.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
My diff started making some awful noises recently and was sluggish going in and out of difflock. This series gave me the confidence to tackle the repair and so far its going smoothly. Thank you for this incredible series!
Note for my disco friends out there: the diff is removable without taking the transfer case or hi/lo gearset out. Makes for a much simpler job!
God send video mate just about to tackle my B suffix box using your videos much appreciated 👍🏼
Ive only welded my back doors, now im thinking about taking out my transfer box.... damn you and your high quality videos!!
+Garrett Bradshaw ;)
very interesting video, and I'me sure it will come in very handy very soon. Great video, once again...!
If you work 1/4 turn at a time on each of the bolts you can loosen off the top half of the diff without having to remove the bearing
Could I use the bearing splitter kit you used on the diff? I do I need a three jaw? I’m gathering tools before I start. Great videos!
Do you have a link to that manual you use with the LR part numbers? 😊
On n'utilise pas un extracteur classique pour enlever le roulement Timken mais utilise un décolle roulement et une presse hydraulique ça va bien plus vite . Par ailleurs travailler sur le carter en aluminium de la boite de transfert n'est pas un bon exemple sauf pour y mettre des pets de partout.
I'm wondering if a 54mm fan clutch wrench would work for the front nut that requires a special tool, what do y'all think?
how much play should there be between front and rear drive flange when cdl is locked mine moves about 5 to 10 degrees but on the back flange it feels a bit crunchy initially when changing direction.
is there anything stopping me from taking the front housing off insitu and then replacing the centre diff brass shims and gears? my 2004 d2a manual has excessive backlash.. and depending on whether or not i find gold flakes in the transfer case, i will be replacing the shims as i suspect they have been destroyed.
yes you can take the front housing off in situe if you like.
I have a 03 D2 4.6l without any of the CDL parts. I have access to a complete 98 D1 to pull parts from. My question is, Can I pull the front cone off the transfer box and swap it into my D2 case? Has this been done before? Will it work?
the issue you have is that the hi low selector has a sensor in there that tells the ECU which range it is in and fuels accordingly. Best to get an Ashcrofts conversion if you want to have a manual hi lo selection.
***** Thanks for the response! So are you saying my D2 front cone has a high/low selector switch and the D1 does not? Or does the D1 have something different? In my research I've found some info on bypassing or deleting the sensor? Is that an option? If I could I'd like to pick your brain on this? Will the D1 front cone bolt up to my 03 without issue? Do I use the actual diff from my D2 with the D1 front cone? Will there be shims that will need to be adjusted to keep proper backlash and what not? The only reason I am planning on this swap is the ashcroft stuff is out of my budget and this complete D1 is 100% untouched and I will be the first person to touch it so I can have everything I need down to every nut and bolt, linkage, everything. Thanks for you time!!!
LT230 SE is the box you will have in the D2. Linkages are different for changing the diff lock over but the housing will be the same as the D1. Not much change in the design from the LT230 T but there are small differences. If you are serious to get a mechanical lever into place then having a donor box with all the lever attachments then you are winning. it would pay you to study the D2 workshop manual to see which switches / sensors that are fitted so you know what you are dealing with. Front housing doesn't need to be shimmed up when swapping over.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Great, thank you! I have the service manual pdf and I have been looking at it. Well, with your info, some other Rover guys input, I feel confident I can make this work!!! Videos to come!!!
I will be covering it too with our D2 but not sure if to keep with the electronics or have a manual diff lock. I think the control manually is better. I like the traction control on the D2 which I have seen in operation where others get cross- axle'd.
ball bearings and springs...never ends well haha.
very true. i still find them now with a magnet sweep.
Is the away to download the microfish or is it something you have to pay for. Thanks for the vids. I now have transfer box in bits awaiting new part.
+kevin clark there is a whole lot on here including the LT230 T www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/
Thanks for this that's brill.
No worries, Enjoy.
where do you find the microfiche information is this on the paddock Web site?
Microfishe info? No it will be on the web for parts info. . Information is found in a workshop manual for the repair side.
what bearing puller are you using please
It was like this but cheaper at about £95
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-PS900-Bearing-Gear-Puller-Set-12Pc-Hand-Tool-Garage-Workshop-Equipment-/381918444667?hash=item58ec1cfc7b:g:1fUAAOSw2xRYc~FG
Don't suppose you know the make of the ones you have?
When I get home I'll take a look for you.
Great Ty. Thank You for your videos they help me loads, enabling me to work on my own land rovers which i really enjoy
What's the best center diff available?
Ah, that would depend on what you want to do with the vehicle.
I'd like to stick one in an F250. It would have to be tough enough to handle 500 horsepower, 500 ft lbs of torque. It would also need a torsen style diff available from the aftermarket.
I hate gear/transfer boxes... they're something I swap with Ashcrofts from time to time... why do I want to do this all of a sudden?!?
+Matt Allen It is sometimes more economical to get a reconditioned transmission than repair on unless you are going to upgrade it then DIY is the way to go. You can always get a cheap one to practice on if you so have a desire to do so. . No pressure then.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos How are you getting on with the rebuild of the Centre Diff? I'm still trying to decide whether to put an Ashcrofts' Torque Biasing jobbie or upgrade like you have.