Good job. Only difference is I use barb wire tighteners on barbwire so you can tighten it up after years. Like the twist on the barbwire really makes a big difference. Glad you enjoy it. This old fencer had enough over 48 years.
We did that for a little while but nobody used them and people tend to over tighten the barbed wire and bend the extended frame over causing even more problems so we quit.
Before taking the T bar off and locking the wire, a good pull/push on the wire will free up some extra slack to turn onto the T bar. This will help the wire stay tight if and when someone jumps on it, because it will loosen/stretch over weight\time. (For the long lines, go to the middle and push or pull on the wire, it will loosen up so you can jack the extra slack.) Tension wire, same concept. Happy fencing.
what about the red rake you used in your other video to lift the chain link into place? I just mentioned it because I've never seen one before, surprisingly. It lifts the chain link up into place nice and evenly and so easily! and the foot dresser; never seen that one but it's an awesome chain link fence tool! well, I've never seen the tool you have in the drill to twist the 9 gauge wire, but I've used a drill by itself to twist wire up, but your tool looks like it would do a much nicer, neater job! Great tool set up there if you are doing a lot of chain link fence for sure! I especially like the 3 foot rake you used to pull the fabric tight! The tension wire tool looks home made but looks like it makes stretching the tension wire tight an easy job! I've seen you use that one in a few videos now; looks handy! I think the hog ring pliers are a must! Great set up! I saw you use some orange colored tool for pulling the tension bar into place; that looked like it worked perfect! What is your opinion on the black fabric chain link Lowe's sells with the powder coating on it? Some of the material they are selling lately seems to be a lesser grade, especially their lumber. I really want to do a cedar fence using galvanized Postmaster posts, but the cedar material they are selling is more like utility grade than #2 or #1 grade. I wish Oklahoma had a Menards. Online I see the quality of their cedar is a thousand times better! Leaves me wanting to go with a chain link fence but the gauge they are selling I believe is thinner than what I see you using.
Yeah I can't really speak to the quality of the big box store materials--but it's typically not what you're getting from a commercial supplier. That's just how it works.
I’d like to see a chain link installation that can reliably contain large (200#) dogs. They are not going to be ‘guard dogs’ but they are protective. Installation will have the holding strength of beach sand, unfortunately. Additionally, will need to withstand puma, deer, and black bears. …is there any hope ?? Either way, I have gas auger, several come alongs fence stretcher bar, and a lot of sweat equity. The total installation will be close to, if not over 3k linear feet. My guess is that I’ll have to pour forms, leveled sub grade, to use as a base, load up a 3 course of concrete block, then set the posts above, to have an additional 60” higher. I can dream, right??
What is the piece called that is on the gate door that the bull dog hinge sits on? is it a collar? At our site the installers didn't put on on so the door is just rubbing on the door frame.
@@SWiFence none of our gates have them. Didn't realize until I looked up this video that the bulldog hinge isn't supposed to just ride on just any part of the gate.
I have a question I bought a cheap used gate for my driveway. But it's for a 16 ft wide opening and my driway is 14 ft wide can I somehow still use this gate that I bought .
Cantilever sliding gate? Sure thing--you'll just have left-over fence that doesn't slide out. Hinged gate? No. Not unless you go back and redo the fence to make the opening wider.
Any way to stop a chain link swing gate to start off 90 degrees from a fence closed, then only open 90 degrees to where it can’t go past the fence line when open?
You use collars with pin hinges instead. And weld on luggs onto you gate. They are offset so the gates will only open one way, but they will open 180 degrees
Yes I seen a video from some guy who said to put the nuts on the outside and the heads should be to in the yard it was residential. If you're trying to keep people from coming in especially if it's a commercial building i would think the nuts should be on the inside so nobody could take your fence apart from the outside and walk right in.
Good job. Only difference is I use barb wire tighteners on barbwire so you can tighten it up after years. Like the twist on the barbwire really makes a big difference. Glad you enjoy it. This old fencer had enough over 48 years.
We did that for a little while but nobody used them and people tend to over tighten the barbed wire and bend the extended frame over causing even more problems so we quit.
@@SWiFence people just think super tight is best lol
Your videos are invaluable!
Thank you so much!
Does that drop rod go into the ground or just rest on top?
Hi, did you post a video about " How to install a chain link sliding gate"?. I really need help on this. Thanks.
This probably isn't exactly what you're looking for but it's the closest we've got for you: ua-cam.com/video/tpURLLEHs4c/v-deo.html
That was excellent guys. Keep up the great sharing
Top notch install! Wish you could work in Arkansas.
I like everything you do, what do you think about pioneer latches?
They're good. We've used them in the past. They have their own advantages.
You guys do great work and I like the welded collars on your gate hinge side
Thanks 👍
Before taking the T bar off and locking the wire, a good pull/push on the wire will free up some extra slack to turn onto the T bar. This will help the wire stay tight if and when someone jumps on it, because it will loosen/stretch over weight\time. (For the long lines, go to the middle and push or pull on the wire, it will loosen up so you can jack the extra slack.) Tension wire, same concept. Happy fencing.
happy fencing!
What is the brand of the gloves you used?
Those are Tillman 1414's.
what about the red rake you used in your other video to lift the chain link into place? I just mentioned it because I've never seen one before, surprisingly. It lifts the chain link up into place nice and evenly and so easily! and the foot dresser; never seen that one but it's an awesome chain link fence tool! well, I've never seen the tool you have in the drill to twist the 9 gauge wire, but I've used a drill by itself to twist wire up, but your tool looks like it would do a much nicer, neater job! Great tool set up there if you are doing a lot of chain link fence for sure! I especially like the 3 foot rake you used to pull the fabric tight! The tension wire tool looks home made but looks like it makes stretching the tension wire tight an easy job! I've seen you use that one in a few videos now; looks handy!
I think the hog ring pliers are a must! Great set up! I saw you use some orange colored tool for pulling the tension bar into place; that looked like it worked perfect!
What is your opinion on the black fabric chain link Lowe's sells with the powder coating on it? Some of the material they are selling lately seems to be a lesser grade, especially their lumber. I really want to do a cedar fence using galvanized Postmaster posts, but the cedar material they are selling is more like utility grade than #2 or #1 grade. I wish Oklahoma had a Menards. Online I see the quality of their cedar is a thousand times better! Leaves me wanting to go with a chain link fence but the gauge they are selling I believe is thinner than what I see you using.
Yeah I can't really speak to the quality of the big box store materials--but it's typically not what you're getting from a commercial supplier. That's just how it works.
@@SWiFence thanks
I’d like to see a chain link installation that can reliably contain large (200#) dogs.
They are not going to be ‘guard dogs’ but they are protective.
Installation will have the holding strength of beach sand, unfortunately.
Additionally, will need to withstand puma, deer, and black bears.
…is there any hope ??
Either way, I have gas auger, several come alongs fence stretcher bar, and a lot of sweat equity. The total installation will be close to, if not over 3k linear feet.
My guess is that I’ll have to pour forms, leveled sub grade, to use as a base, load up a 3 course of concrete block, then set the posts above, to have an additional 60” higher.
I can dream, right??
What's the centre spacing for a drop rod?
Give it 4-41/4 inches.
Do you turn the barb back for the top run like you did with the gate section? using the battery drill?
No, It would take way too much time and be near impossible since the runs are so long.
What is the piece called that is on the gate door that the bull dog hinge sits on? is it a collar? At our site the installers didn't put on on so the door is just rubbing on the door frame.
Yep! That would be a collar.
@@SWiFence none of our gates have them. Didn't realize until I looked up this video that the bulldog hinge isn't supposed to just ride on just any part of the gate.
Alot of companies just let em ride on the weld at the corner of the frame, problem is you start to cut through the weld. Do it right weld collars.
I have a question I bought a cheap used gate for my driveway. But it's for a 16 ft wide opening and my driway is 14 ft wide can I somehow still use this gate that I bought .
Cantilever sliding gate? Sure thing--you'll just have left-over fence that doesn't slide out.
Hinged gate? No. Not unless you go back and redo the fence to make the opening wider.
@@SWiFence thanks a lot for replying I appreciate it
Was able to show the hubby why the post wouldn’t fit 😂
Any way to stop a chain link swing gate to start off 90 degrees from a fence closed, then only open 90 degrees to where it can’t go past the fence line when open?
You use collars with pin hinges instead. And weld on luggs onto you gate. They are offset so the gates will only open one way, but they will open 180 degrees
Vamos y compramos y lo hacemos
great video!
THANKS
You're welcome!
Need you in Louisiana
I need to custom make a 6 feet chain link gates because my chain link fence is 6 feet
You just need a good welder!
Uhhhh…. You forgot the Klein pliers! HOW?
That is a good danged gate!!!!
Thanks!
Feels like they've been putting this fence section up for weeks! LOL Govt labor? HAH!
This gate actually took us about 4 days to install. The power of editing!
To film and explain something takes 4x longer than if we did it without the video. You’re welcome 😁
@@SWiFence And then there's Mark, so... I get it.
😁
좋아요😂
Too bad you guys aren’t in Gillette. 😔
We do jobs in Gillette! 👍
Yes I seen a video from some guy who said to put the nuts on the outside and the heads should be to in the yard it was residential. If you're trying to keep people from coming in especially if it's a commercial building i would think the nuts should be on the inside so nobody could take your fence apart from the outside and walk right in.
You're right on. 👍🏻