Thanks. Your video gave me some information I didn't have although I've done this job on my 4runner a couple of times. I'll add my 2 cents worth here for those who take this job on. A better choice than 3/8 Allen key is a metric 10 mm Allen socket if you have one. Torque specs I used (you should check) 3 filter bolts = 90 inch/lbs (one source said 96, another said 84), pan bolts = 43 inch/lbs (another source said 48), drain plug = 36 foot/lbs (although one source said 20 ft/lbs which should be reduced to 16 ft/lbs to compensate for oil on threads...that seems way too low to me). The aluminum crush washer is inside diameter of 18 mm and outside diameter 24 mm. I just got one with 18mm ID (x 3 for the next couple of times). It had a larger OD, but worked fine (I didn't feel like driving to the dealer). You need to use automatic transmission fluid rated for Toyota type T-IV. I bought some "Aisin T-IV" from a parts store for $13 bucks a quart. Aisin makes the transmissions used in Toyotas and various other cars. You'll need to buy 4 quarts to do a drain and fill. I also bought the aftermarket "Beckarlnley" filter kit through the local parts store ($25) which included the o-ring. My engine has 256,000 km on it. I did a complete flush when I bought the car at 145,000km. So, I've got a little more than 100,000 km on this fluid. The filter had never been changed, so I thought it was time. Looking at the filter I took out, it was almost pristine and a much better filter than the one I replaced it with. OEM filters have a very fine stainless steel mesh as the filter element. The one I replaced it with uses a fabric or some kind of paper composite filter element. The OEM one can be cleaned with brake cleaner and blown with compressed air. I did this on my 4runner with 400,000km on it and the filter was perfect. I checked inside with an inspection camera. So, I'm not so sure you need to get a new filter if you have the original OEM from Toyota. You could re-use the old one. Just check that the o-ring is on it. Guys in the shop don't have time, so they just replace it. If you remove the filter and there is no o-ring on the neck, better check to see if it is stuck inside the passage. Like this mechanic, I used a very thin film of permatex copper on the pan side. You usually just put them on dry, but the pan surface seemed a little rough, so I used some for insurance. It will make the job harder next time because the sealant has to be removed. If you use a sealant, make sure it is oil compatible. Don't just use any permatex or other brands of gasket maker. One thing you really have to pay attention to is cleaning the magnets AND PUTTING THEM BACK in position right away. Don't wait until later or you'll forget! There are 2 magnets located in right angle dimples on the bottom inside of the pan. Lots of guys forget to put these back in when they service a transmission. These give your transmission protection as they attract the abrasive iron from the meshing gears as the oil passes over them. When you torque down the gasket, do so in alternating fashion (maybe take a look at a video on this topic - hard to explain). I measured 3.5 litres that drained out. I put back in 3.7 litres to get it to register on "cold" on the dipstick while the engine was running (must have been a little low to start with). You add fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel. Go for a drive to warm up the transmission but don't go crazy with high revs. When the transmission is hot, you should see it on the hot marks on the dipstick while the engine is running on a level surface. Check it in a day or so just to make sure you have enough. If you happen to overfill, I've just used a large syringe and a piece of plastic tubing to pull a little out of the pan. You don't want too much in there. This mechanic is very neat and meticulous. That's what you want to do when you take this on. Don't be in a rush. When you open up that transmission and reveal the valve body and solenoids, it should be like you are doing exploratory surgery....keep things clean. You don't want any contamination like steel wool, excess gobs of sealant or grit getting in there. If you plug up any of those passages, it will affect your transmission! If you use a sealer use only a thin film on the ridge of the mating pan surface and around the bolt holes. Just go snug with 2 fingers on the bare socket when you put the pan bolts in. You just want to hold the surfaces together. Let the permatex set up for about 20 minutes before you torque the pan nuts. Then wait about an hour after torquing so that permatex cures sufficiently before you add your tranny oil. The fluid I took out looked surprisingly good for having 110,000 km on it. Still red and still fairly transparent. I'll do the next drain and fill in about 30,000 km or as required. I will not be changing the filter on the next one. Hope this helps someone. This is a great video for showing you how its done!
Hey dude, did the drain plug have a washer or something? I did my change according to the video and everything went great except for the fact that the drain plug is leaking when not on level ground (very odd I know. It leaks when I park at home but not on the level parking lot at work, so that's why I say that lol). I don't think I overtightened it to the point where I stripped it, but maybe I did overtighten it enough so the fat part of the plug isn't in the right spot. Idk, you have any thoughts on this?
You leaked four liters of oil, and the system has eight liters.So the replacement was not complete.It was necessary to remove the pipe from the radiator and with the engine running, drain the remaining four liters.
Napindot nu po ung overdrive off sa my kambyu .. ang over drive off kc ginagamit po lang yan sa uphill o paahun ibig sabihin overdrive off nasa low gear po kau at pagnaka ilaw po yan nakaoverdrive off po kau pindutin nu po ulit ung od para mawala ung ilaw babalik kausa normal driving
@@asianmechanicguy6483 a ok, salamat sa reply! akala ko baka may fault ung transmission kung umilaw, pero normal lang pala na umiilaw un kung napindot ung overdrive button sa kambyu, pero napansin ko rin na bakit minsan umiilaw minsan hindi sya umiilaw kng pinipindot ko ung overdrive button sa kambyu anu kaya ang problema?
maaring malfuntion ung switch nya kailangan nating tignan for further diagnose.pero kung ako sa inyo wag nu nalang pindutin anyway additional feature lang yan ng car kahit dmo gamitin walang epekto sa maintenance ng car
bro sa my below ng driver sideung drain plug. wag kang matakot madali lang magdrain ng tranny oil sundan mo lang bro ung video ko guaruntee magiging ok car mo
Thanks. Your video gave me some information I didn't have although I've done this job on my 4runner a couple of times. I'll add my 2 cents worth here for those who take this job on. A better choice than 3/8 Allen key is a metric 10 mm Allen socket if you have one. Torque specs I used (you should check) 3 filter bolts = 90 inch/lbs (one source said 96, another said 84), pan bolts = 43 inch/lbs (another source said 48), drain plug = 36 foot/lbs (although one source said 20 ft/lbs which should be reduced to 16 ft/lbs to compensate for oil on threads...that seems way too low to me). The aluminum crush washer is inside diameter of 18 mm and outside diameter 24 mm. I just got one with 18mm ID (x 3 for the next couple of times). It had a larger OD, but worked fine (I didn't feel like driving to the dealer). You need to use automatic transmission fluid rated for Toyota type T-IV. I bought some "Aisin T-IV" from a parts store for $13 bucks a quart. Aisin makes the transmissions used in Toyotas and various other cars. You'll need to buy 4 quarts to do a drain and fill. I also bought the aftermarket "Beckarlnley" filter kit through the local parts store ($25) which included the o-ring. My engine has 256,000 km on it. I did a complete flush when I bought the car at 145,000km. So, I've got a little more than 100,000 km on this fluid. The filter had never been changed, so I thought it was time. Looking at the filter I took out, it was almost pristine and a much better filter than the one I replaced it with. OEM filters have a very fine stainless steel mesh as the filter element. The one I replaced it with uses a fabric or some kind of paper composite filter element. The OEM one can be cleaned with brake cleaner and blown with compressed air. I did this on my 4runner with 400,000km on it and the filter was perfect. I checked inside with an inspection camera. So, I'm not so sure you need to get a new filter if you have the original OEM from Toyota. You could re-use the old one. Just check that the o-ring is on it. Guys in the shop don't have time, so they just replace it. If you remove the filter and there is no o-ring on the neck, better check to see if it is stuck inside the passage. Like this mechanic, I used a very thin film of permatex copper on the pan side. You usually just put them on dry, but the pan surface seemed a little rough, so I used some for insurance. It will make the job harder next time because the sealant has to be removed. If you use a sealant, make sure it is oil compatible. Don't just use any permatex or other brands of gasket maker. One thing you really have to pay attention to is cleaning the magnets AND PUTTING THEM BACK in position right away. Don't wait until later or you'll forget! There are 2 magnets located in right angle dimples on the bottom inside of the pan. Lots of guys forget to put these back in when they service a transmission. These give your transmission protection as they attract the abrasive iron from the meshing gears as the oil passes over them. When you torque down the gasket, do so in alternating fashion (maybe take a look at a video on this topic - hard to explain). I measured 3.5 litres that drained out. I put back in 3.7 litres to get it to register on "cold" on the dipstick while the engine was running (must have been a little low to start with). You add fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel. Go for a drive to warm up the transmission but don't go crazy with high revs. When the transmission is hot, you should see it on the hot marks on the dipstick while the engine is running on a level surface. Check it in a day or so just to make sure you have enough. If you happen to overfill, I've just used a large syringe and a piece of plastic tubing to pull a little out of the pan. You don't want too much in there. This mechanic is very neat and meticulous. That's what you want to do when you take this on. Don't be in a rush. When you open up that transmission and reveal the valve body and solenoids, it should be like you are doing exploratory surgery....keep things clean. You don't want any contamination like steel wool, excess gobs of sealant or grit getting in there. If you plug up any of those passages, it will affect your transmission! If you use a sealer use only a thin film on the ridge of the mating pan surface and around the bolt holes. Just go snug with 2 fingers on the bare socket when you put the pan bolts in. You just want to hold the surfaces together. Let the permatex set up for about 20 minutes before you torque the pan nuts. Then wait about an hour after torquing so that permatex cures sufficiently before you add your tranny oil. The fluid I took out looked surprisingly good for having 110,000 km on it. Still red and still fairly transparent. I'll do the next drain and fill in about 30,000 km or as required. I will not be changing the filter on the next one. Hope this helps someone. This is a great video for showing you how its done!
best video on youtube for echo transmision oil change :-) thx more please
thanks for watching my videos
Girl friend:honey did you saw my white top
Mechanic bf:yes but i service our car😄
Gracias a tu video ya no tengo que ir a pagar…, por el cambio de aceite de la transmisión de mi carro.,,, Dios te bendiga??
Gracias por el video amigo al día de ahora lo ocuparé haciendo el primer cambio de aceite de trasmision en el el toyota echo 2003
Thanks!!
Greetings from Peru :)
You're welcome!
Thank you so much. I really appreciate this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey dude, did the drain plug have a washer or something? I did my change according to the video and everything went great except for the fact that the drain plug is leaking when not on level ground (very odd I know. It leaks when I park at home but not on the level parking lot at work, so that's why I say that lol).
I don't think I overtightened it to the point where I stripped it, but maybe I did overtighten it enough so the fat part of the plug isn't in the right spot. Idk, you have any thoughts on this?
So much help, thanks for video. From Guatemala.
Gracias mi amigo..por favor watch my other videos too..
Como obtener un manual de reparacion del toyota yaris 2005 1NZ-FE
Donde puedo comprar piezas de repuesto para el toyota yaris2005 1 NZ-FE
Como te va? Cuantos litros de ATF utilizaste? Soy de Guatemala también.
Agyamanak brother
Awan problema kabsat
is it the same for a2002 echo
i think there the same
FYI ALL: This is for automatic transmission.
Yup sir this is toyota echo automatic transmission fluid change
Was that adhesive of some sort that you put on the gasket to hold in place?
its a gasket maker from canadian tire i think
@@asianmechanicguy6483 why did you combine them?
Gracias
What oil use? Dexron3? Other? Regards from Chile
Motomaster Transmission Fluid T-IV
I love the socket what’s the name of it? I think I can make out milwakee?
yup its milwaukee m12
is this for an automatic or a manual? And does it even matter?
automatic only
Hi bro how many liters do it automátic transmisión ?
i forgot watch the video few times i might mention it there
How much liter
very nice bro
Do you have to change the gasket every time on the pan?
yup the part is not that expensive anyway and you dont want to have any leak when u put back the pan
Any Gaskets after disassembly should be replaced as they will not seal properly next time is installed.
naggatagam ti filter sir? sa dealer?
lordco yata dko na matandaan
Would have helped if you mentioned: automatic transmission !!!
is it manual transmission
automatic brother
thank u
youre welcome
May i know which kind or brand of fluid,filter and gasket did you use?
whats the power tool name
milwaukee cordless rarchet
Is this the same for the 5 speed manual Echo?
No there different
Thanks for the reply and help
Great job ya
You leaked four liters of oil, and the system has eight liters.So the replacement was not complete.It was necessary to remove the pipe from the radiator and with the engine running, drain the remaining four liters.
Also its always good to have half of the transmission oil
Pipe from the radiator wouldn't that be coolant?
How would the engine running cycle the transmission fluid wouldn't the transmission gear stack be locked in park or separated in neutral
Wonder if could just siphon pump the bottom of the pickup for the filter to get the supposed remailing 4 liters
Wrong you're talking about coolant I'm guessing....this is transmission oil. Only takes 2.9 liters.
Brother, how to change break pad naman, echo 2000
Next time brother
halu kabayan, galing ng trabaho mo! tanong ko lng pag nka-ovedrive ba e may O/D na ilaw sa dashboard? normal b eto o dapat walang ilaw..salamat
Napindot nu po ung overdrive off sa my kambyu .. ang over drive off kc ginagamit po lang yan sa uphill o paahun ibig sabihin overdrive off nasa low gear po kau at pagnaka ilaw po yan nakaoverdrive off po kau pindutin nu po ulit ung od para mawala ung ilaw babalik kausa normal driving
@@asianmechanicguy6483 a ok, salamat sa reply! akala ko baka may fault ung transmission kung umilaw, pero normal lang pala na umiilaw un kung napindot ung overdrive button sa kambyu, pero napansin ko rin na bakit minsan umiilaw minsan hindi sya umiilaw kng pinipindot ko ung overdrive button sa kambyu anu kaya ang problema?
maaring malfuntion ung switch nya kailangan nating tignan for further diagnose.pero kung ako sa inyo wag nu nalang pindutin anyway additional feature lang yan ng car kahit dmo gamitin walang epekto sa maintenance ng car
@@asianmechanicguy6483 ok, salamat uli
kabayan ilang litro nilgay mo sa transmission
Almost 5 liters binuksan ko kc ung tranny pan kung drain lang ibang usapan un..
firsty ko magpalit ng transmission oil san ko b buksan ung drain nia sa transsmission b mismo
bro sa my below ng driver sideung drain plug. wag kang matakot madali lang magdrain ng tranny oil sundan mo lang bro ung video ko guaruntee magiging ok car mo
kung my tanung ka pa bro tungkol sa echo tanung kalang sasagutin sa abot ng aking makakaya and salamat sa pagwatch ng videos ko...
Rhaswin's Garage Mekanikong Pinoy kapag natapos ko i drain san ko b pwde ilagay ung bago na oil sa dip stick b sa may makina