I buy the Park Tool Polylube 1000 PPL-1 for this hub, nose fits the hole perfect and lets you get good pressure to fill the hub to get things running smooth again, no jolt, pop or noise. I found getting some pressure at to the flow of the grease just so much easier, hope this helps. Had all the same issues of pop/click/snap from the coaster (I take it the grease was minimal or dried out in storage on a new hub, great product, G-Sport for the win! I been through 3 freecoaster before this, they all blew up, great design G!
How amazing is UA-cam? Read everything you wrote in back in the Ride bmx mags. learned so much, apart from from you pushing the tea drinking on everyone, I'll take a coffee. Glad I stumbled across you on UA-cam.
Hi i have just bought this coaster in december and it pops. I know its breaking in so its fine but one of my concerns is that when i go to pedal it sometimes slips like when i put pressure it will go down a little more before it engages. Now my friend had this problem in another freecoaster and had to get a new one. Now do i need to grease it? If so please help me. What should i do. This coaster isnt supposed to have any problems and now its doing this jts brand new and im kind of disappointed.
The clutch where it has the little groves where when you peddal it catches it has to much grease right there thats what is causing it to slip idk what the popping sound is
Firegunnerprime popping sound is normal, nothing to worry about , cleaning the hub or greasing should take care of the sound , other than that don’t even trip cuh cuh
Hey mate, me again hahaha, This hub is giving drama after drama ! Since the collar snapped, I decided I'd take the wheel off the bike, so I can obviously get the collar replaced or something. I first loosened the non drive side! it was fine! but When I loosened the drive side axle nut, I heard a pop and another peice of the collar fell off, and then I realised the nut was spinning but wasn't actually coming out of the hub, it just like, rotated the axle or something? Because it was rotating the non drive side. you got any ideas of what's going on?? I took the chain off to see if I could just try and take it off the frame with the nut still on but it's still on too tight to take off the frame. Also I felt the driver with my hands and it doesnt rotate at all!! so bummed about all this, I just wanna ride!
Sorry to hear of the problems. That's a strange failure. We will obviously warranty any parts that have failed. In terms of getting the hub apart, the solution to your issue with the bolts is just to fully retighten the non-drive-side to the dropout, and then unscrew the drive side. I will email you about the replacement collar etc.
Hi! I will be surprized if you will responde but... I have a very bad problem with my clutch v2, I have very severe ghost pedaling issue and when im cruising, after I stop pedaling it makes a click noise, Its not from the chain because it does the same thing even if i rotate the driver by hand. And I have e very severe resistance on the pedals if i tighten my wheel ever slighty, I dissasambled it and cleaned it, NO parts are broken, everything its fine, i regreased it but the problems remained, I dissasembled it 8 times, everytime using a different type of grease but nothing makes it work. Out of anger I sprayed break cleaner trought the hole and all the problems except the clicking noise dissapeared but returned after 4 days of riding, please help me, i had this hub for 2 years, the ghost pedaling came first progresevly worse, but now its unrideable, No parts are broken, it worked 2 years perfectly, the bike com[any were i boughtit from doesent want to help and i am from europe!!!!!!!!! please help!!!
This sort of thing is usually better by email but let's have a go. I know you say you have tried multiple greases etc, but 9 times out of 10 any problem is down to a lack of grease. Really lard it on. If that really isn't the problem then the next logical step is to ask if anything has changed. Putting anything between the axle and the dropout is nearly always a disaster, so if you've recently added a dive side guard in there it then try taking it back out. Similarly if your dropouts are damaged or bent that can cause problems, ideally try the hub on another bike. Lastly, if none of this is the cause, then it rather stands to reason that something is damaged or broken. Examine everything carefully, maybe you managed to bend the axle (though this is incredibly unusual), maybe there is a crack in the drive side collar or the clutch itself. Is the drive side angular contact bearing OK (and is it in the right way round)? Hope something here helps and please feel free to email me directly with photos etc.
@@gsportgeorge Hi! thanks for the response! Can you leave me your email please? I will explain it better there, I really want to solve this problem, thanks for your help!
@@gsportgeorge Hi! Looks like the lack of grease was the problem as you said. I'm really surprised that it worked! Everything is fine now and the bike rides perfectly. Thanks a lot!
You should be able to press the driver out and then the bearing. You will need something like a large socket that can fit through the conical shell liner to push against the driver and then the bearing. I hope this helps.
My drive screws out with hand pressure like in the video on the hub that is cut open is that bad? And also I've noticed man back pedaling my driver rubs against the drive side collar is that normal?
Once you've removed everything else as shown above you can use something like a bit of old broom handle inserted from the non-drive side of the hub and a hammer to drive it out. Just take your time and vary where you hit the bearing to keep it straight on the way out. If it goes over at an angle then knock it back in a bit too straighten then try again. Don't just keep hitting. Hope this helps. Realistically this bearing should never need to be removed as it is strong enough to last the life of the hub. (ie. Indefinitely)
Just changed tyres. Forgot I blew up my drive side collar. It's in 4 pieces, placed that shit back like a god and bolted her back up. Now watching this for a more reasonable solution 😭😅🤦🏿♂️😂
@@gsportgeorge is it bad that I didn't even think of that. 😂. Probs had it 6 month. Tbh I've been trying to dial down my tail whips and I've been crashing hard. It's a customer issue, not manefacturer lol
@@gsportgeorge ill put an email in. I've got some major drag on it. Spun my vandero once, spun the clutch 3 times and when the rear stopped the front was still going strong , so I need help either way. ( definitely down to the before mentioned.) I really appreciate your reply George. I've got so much love for odessey; you just took it to the moon. Enjoy your weekend fella!!! 💪
Have you tried adding a lot more grease? 99 times out of 100 this fixes any issues. You can add through the adjustment hole but will need to work it down to the driver end. Hope this helps.
My clutch hub is like rice krispies. Snap, Crackle, POP. Most embarrassing noise ever out of it. every time I pull a trick it makes a very loud POP noise. I've squeezed nearly a full tube of phill wood grease in there and it still does it. Chris at odyssey sent me some new internal parts. When I opened it up, there was nothing wrong looking with the current parts. What is up with this Hub? Grease isn't helping.
my clutch v2 is having a really hard time moving in either direction, no problems and then i put my wheel on my new frame and it feels like the chain is too tight no matter how loose i run it, added grease, made sure my half link was facing the right way, and added spacers to space out the sprocket and align the chain better. any ideas? im going to take it apart right now.
update: i started taking it apart and my driver started coming out easily by hand, but all of the needles of the driver were sitting loose in the hub, is that not something that is just set in or should it be able to come apart like that? (this hub was taken apart before at my local bmx shop to replace the axle, maybe that is why it is loose?)
Was going to suggest putting it back in your old frame to see if the frame is somehow responsible but sounds like you've moved on from there. The needles should be in a cage. If the cage has broken then it will obviously need a new cage assembly. Is there significant wear or corrosion visible? How long have you had the hub?
Hey George, I’ve been riding the Clutch V2 coaster for about a year and a half and it’s doing great. Very stable and durable. My driver feels rough, and I’d like to take it out to clean the needle bearing, but the collar won’t come off. I read your other comments, so I’m going to try to use penetrating oil. My question is, when you say to tighten the non drive side onto the dropout, do I still need to pull off that large cone nut in order to pull the driveside collar out, or will it come out whilst the non-driveside is bolted down with the cone nut still on? If it comes out without taking off the non-driveside cone nut, please let me know so that I don’t damage my hub trying to take it out. Thanks!
Hi Dude, Sorry not following your description very well. There are no cone nuts, just push fit collars. All you need to do is pull hard. If it is corroded on there then some penetrating spray is a good start. Bolting the other side of the hub to something to help you pull is one way to go but not really going to help enormously. If you can get the non-drive-side collar off, then you can remove the circlip on the non drive side and this will let you knock the axle out as shown in the video, which will release the drive side collar. Maybe watch the video again to get what I mean. Hope this helps.
George French appreciate it, I wasn’t sure if that piece you pulled off along with the bolt was a cone but or an axle so I just had to guess what to call it haha
George French I’ve got the driveside collar out now, but the driver came out when I pulled it out, and now it won’t go back in completely. I don’t believe there is any damage because it engages and disengages, but I can’t seem to drift the axle through the non-driveside and the non-driveside bearing seems to have drifted more towards the center of the hub somehow.
@@pejotaforpres have you taken the circlip off? Sorry if this seems obvious but without having the hub in front of me need to be sure to cover everything. Assuming the circlip is out the axle and non drive side bearing should be able to be driven out the non drive side. You must support the hub in a way that leaves space for the bearing to exit. If your only reason for working on the hub was to grease the driver bearings then you should probably just do that, and then put the driver back. Where does the driver hang up when trying to reinstall? Is it on the first part of the bearing seat trying to go into the drive side bearing? Or do you maybe need to screw it into the clutch lump? You can always email me photos and video etc to g at gsport dot co dot UK. Hope this helps.
Be better not to. It really should come out the hole with a bit of shaking. You might need to stick a screwdriver through the hole to push the helical adjuster halves back together. Otherwise just follow the video to take it apart.
Sorry to hear of the problem. That isn't normal. It's a common problem with other brand's coasters but ours is very different in this respect. Have you taken it apart to see if you can find where the problem is? If you aren't confident doing that then best bet is to take it to a good shop for them to troubleshoot.
Hi George I would like some help here please if you don’t mind. I recently bought the complete Gsport Rib x V2 wheel and for some reason I cannot loosen the bolts. What I mean is one side loosens and the other tightens and vice versa.. help! :) it’s more than likely what I am doing wrong but it’s my first time with a coaster so not sure what to do. I am just trying to loosen both sides to put the wheel on. Thanks!
Hi Sergio, just loosen the side that you can and then bolt this up tight to a dropout (with the wheel outside the bike frame) then you can undo the stuck side. Hope this helps.
Sorry to ask, but do your cranks spin without the chain on freely? And also your chain is not tight? However i'm not surprised that the hub doesn't crankflip well, if there was no resistance in the hub then it couldn't engage as the clutch would just spin with the driver instead of binding and moving into the hub to engage. It's another reason why this current design and KHE design is really quite bad.
Hey George I wanted to know what is your preference on grease to use on this hub? I just got mine and wanted to know so when I need to grease it I have to right stuff
Ive got a weird noise / wobblie i dont know what it is i bought it today and im a bit of a noob with freecoasters. I dont know whats wrong it makes a terrible sound as if the wheels loose but its all tight, the rotating thing with the needles behind the driver moves up and down and also shifts the axle. Is this normal??
hi george, i recently purchased this hub, i got it assembled by a bike mechanic at my local shop after i got it ordered in , today was my first day riding it and the drive side collar snapped into 3 pieces, i was really bummed because i heard this hub was really strong, i don't understand what happened to it. will a replacement piece be available or do i have to buy a new hub? i just spent alot of money on this hub and for it to break on the first ride really got me bummed out thanks, kye
hey Kye, sorry to hear of the problem, never heard of anything like that before. please contact warranty at odyssey so we can get you a replacement sorted under warranty. please send us back the broken part so we can work out what went wrong.
+George French thanks for getting back to me, I'm from australia, so do i contact an australian dealer and send it to them?? or do i try contact odyssey, and have to send it to america , I'm okay with having to pay the postage fee for an international post.
+Kye Wilson either the shop you bought from our the Australian distributor bmx international should be able to help you sort this out. or drop me an email and I'll sort it personally. g at gsport.co.uk
+George French okay sweet, how long of warranty do i have? i leave to japan on tuesday and won't be back until mid january next year, will the warranty still last until i get back to sort this out?
Hey .. a few questions about the durability of this hub.. Is it really as durable as the company claims? I have heard stories of it breaking on them . One guy told that he broke two hubs .. so what kind of tricks could damage it?. And what are the improvements on the v2 over the v1?. Sorry about these questions .I am about to order a sunday streetsweeper and it comes with the clutch v2. So I would really like to know your thoughts before I make that payment..
DINO IDEAS durability is excellent as long as it isn't abused. That means avoiding letting it get loads of grit or dirt inside and not jet washing all the grease out etc. In terms of riding, you should be able to use pedal pressure for tricks and do all the usual peg tricks without problems. We get very few warranty issues and where that does happen we will always try to get things sorted as quickly as possible. Although the v2 and v1 look very similar the v2 uses an oversized clutch mechanism so that it can use a full 14mm female bolt configuration (whereas the v1 has a 3/8" bolt on the drive side due to the smaller axle diameter). Hope this helps.
DINO IDEAS only if it seems like there is a problem. Adding some fresh grease through the adjustment hole once or twice a year would be good but otherwise just wiping it off once every few months should be all it needs. If you have to ride through super heavy rain a lot or it goes in a lake or something then some more grease might be good but otherwise leave it alone.
George French so for the most part it's less maintainance and more riding? Sounds like it is as durable as any cassette hub.. I guess I'm gonna order the bike then..
The obvious answer is circle pliers, but I appreciate that lots of people don't have them. If you have some fine needle nose pliers then they might work.
hey i just got my odessey cluth hub i guess i was turn it the wrong way amd the screw for the slack adjustment went side ways in the hub can u make a video to fix this
+LionFG You're looking at it. You'll probably need to take the hub apart as shown then put the grub screw back in. Just note that it needs to go in the half of the helical adjuster nearest the drive mechanism so you can reach it from the access hole. Hope this helps.
Stuck in there tight. Not coming out easily. Hard to get a grip on it. Moved it, maybe 1/16th out. Seeing what Phillip at Full Factory, suggests, also.
@@snivlem999 it should be very close to coming free now. It only grips on the end 1/8" or so. Removing the circlip and drifting the axle out the far side will definitely get it.
@@snivlem999 if necessary you can stick a screwdriver in the gap between the non -drive-collar and the hub-shell to pry it off. Just be careful not to mark the parts.
+Tim Wood I would still open her up and have a look. If you have stripped the thread then please contact warranty and they should be able to hook you up with a replacement easily enough.
So what will have happened is that you've screwed the grub screw all the way through the helical adjuster. If you shake the hub about with the access hole as the lowest point you should be able to retrieve it. Then you just need to line the hole in the shell up with the correct thread hole in the helical adjuster half nearest the drive side and put it back in. Hope this helps.
chris Reeves have you tried the usual stuff like penetrating oil? Just be careful not to get it into the bearings as it will wash the grease out. Another helpful trick is to bolt the other side of the axle to the outside of a dropout so you can hold the axle without marking it while you try to turn the stuck collar. Hope this helps.
+George French. how long does it take for odessey to send back the replace meant parts i have been waiting a week and i live close to california i live in vegas
I have a clutch V2 wheel and my drive side collar wont come out of the hub. I work at a shop and none of the other mechanics were able to get it out. I would put a blow torch to it but I am worried about possibly melting/damaging the plastic gap mechanism. Is this a common issue or am I just doing something wrong? fyi i have had this wheel for almost a year
Sorry to hear of the issue. No that's not common. Is it possible that the collar has corroded onto the axle? Can you rotate the collar relative to the axle? Some penetrating oil between the axle and collar may help free it. Try to avoid using heat (as you say it will damage the plastic parts and seals). If the collar seems free on the axle then just keep turning the collar (either direction it back and forth) as you pull it out. Hope this helps.
So…. what I did to remove the drive side, bearing once the driver was already removed was use my park tool RT - 1. It is a headset and bottom bracket cup removal tool. I inserted it into my hub upside down. I used the end that you would typically hit with a hammer to rest against the inner race of the bearing . It fit perfectly inside the inner bearing race and free a few taps on the opposite end, I was able to pop it right out.
I buy the Park Tool Polylube 1000 PPL-1 for this hub, nose fits the hole perfect and lets you get good pressure to fill the hub to get things running smooth again, no jolt, pop or noise. I found getting some pressure at to the flow of the grease just so much easier, hope this helps. Had all the same issues of pop/click/snap from the coaster (I take it the grease was minimal or dried out in storage on a new hub, great product, G-Sport for the win! I been through 3 freecoaster before this, they all blew up, great design G!
Thanks man quick video informitatove took my v2 apart in minites thanks again
How amazing is UA-cam? Read everything you wrote in back in the Ride bmx mags.
learned so much, apart from from you pushing the tea drinking on everyone, I'll take a coffee.
Glad I stumbled across you on UA-cam.
Just got a bike that came with the v2. I got to say ,it is pretty easy to get used to.. just love it .. i got used to it in an hour..
DINO IDEAS glad you like it 👍
What do you recommend I do in my clutch hub moves side to side?
My adjustment screw came out and I found it wedged in another part of the hub that I can see through the adjustment hole
Hold it in the air, instead of the vice, you damage the flanges.
Hi i have just bought this coaster in december and it pops. I know its breaking in so its fine but one of my concerns is that when i go to pedal it sometimes slips like when i put pressure it will go down a little more before it engages. Now my friend had this problem in another freecoaster and had to get a new one. Now do i need to grease it? If so please help me. What should i do. This coaster isnt supposed to have any problems and now its doing this jts brand new and im kind of disappointed.
Zane Bryan same thing happens to me, did u fix it yet?
The clutch where it has the little groves where when you peddal it catches it has to much grease right there thats what is causing it to slip idk what the popping sound is
Firegunnerprime popping sound is normal, nothing to worry about , cleaning the hub or greasing should take care of the sound , other than that don’t even trip cuh cuh
Thank u for video
I wanted to add grease and was wondering how I should put the grease in.
Hey mate, me again hahaha,
This hub is giving drama after drama !
Since the collar snapped, I decided I'd take the wheel off the bike, so I can obviously get the collar replaced or something. I first loosened the non drive side! it was fine! but When I loosened the drive side axle nut, I heard a pop and another peice of the collar fell off, and then I realised the nut was spinning but wasn't actually coming out of the hub, it just like, rotated the axle or something? Because it was rotating the non drive side. you got any ideas of what's going on?? I took the chain off to see if I could just try and take it off the frame with the nut still on but it's still on too tight to take off the frame. Also I felt the driver with my hands and it doesnt rotate at all!! so bummed about all this, I just wanna ride!
Sorry to hear of the problems. That's a strange failure. We will obviously warranty any parts that have failed. In terms of getting the hub apart, the solution to your issue with the bolts is just to fully retighten the non-drive-side to the dropout, and then unscrew the drive side.
I will email you about the replacement collar etc.
+George French I have emailed
You my shipping details , thanks
Ok so my collar cracked on my V2 I ordered a whole new driver but just plan on switching the collars out my question is how do I do that
Steven Roark just pull the old one off. 2.44 in the video. I'd suggest checking it's clean inside and re greasing. Then just slide in the new collar.
Hi! I will be surprized if you will responde but... I have a very bad problem with my clutch v2, I have very severe ghost pedaling issue and when im cruising, after I stop pedaling it makes a click noise, Its not from the chain because it does the same thing even if i rotate the driver by hand. And I have e very severe resistance on the pedals if i tighten my wheel ever slighty, I dissasambled it and cleaned it, NO parts are broken, everything its fine, i regreased it but the problems remained, I dissasembled it 8 times, everytime using a different type of grease but nothing makes it work. Out of anger I sprayed break cleaner trought the hole and all the problems except the clicking noise dissapeared but returned after 4 days of riding, please help me, i had this hub for 2 years, the ghost pedaling came first progresevly worse, but now its unrideable, No parts are broken, it worked 2 years perfectly, the bike com[any were i boughtit from doesent want to help and i am from europe!!!!!!!!! please help!!!
This sort of thing is usually better by email but let's have a go.
I know you say you have tried multiple greases etc, but 9 times out of 10 any problem is down to a lack of grease. Really lard it on.
If that really isn't the problem then the next logical step is to ask if anything has changed. Putting anything between the axle and the dropout is nearly always a disaster, so if you've recently added a dive side guard in there it then try taking it back out.
Similarly if your dropouts are damaged or bent that can cause problems, ideally try the hub on another bike.
Lastly, if none of this is the cause, then it rather stands to reason that something is damaged or broken. Examine everything carefully, maybe you managed to bend the axle (though this is incredibly unusual), maybe there is a crack in the drive side collar or the clutch itself. Is the drive side angular contact bearing OK (and is it in the right way round)?
Hope something here helps and please feel free to email me directly with photos etc.
@@gsportgeorge Hi! thanks for the response! Can you leave me your email please? I will explain it better there, I really want to solve this problem, thanks for your help!
@@sergiuzsr g at gsport dot co dot uk
@@gsportgeorge Hi! Looks like the lack of grease was the problem as you said. I'm really surprised that it worked! Everything is fine now and the bike rides perfectly. Thanks a lot!
I have a v2 with a very stuck on driver collar! Whats the best way to pull that off?
Hey @george french i have everything of my hub except the driver side bearing how can i get it out needs replacing
You should be able to press the driver out and then the bearing. You will need something like a large socket that can fit through the conical shell liner to push against the driver and then the bearing.
I hope this helps.
My drive screws out with hand pressure like in the video on the hub that is cut open is that bad? And also I've noticed man back pedaling my driver rubs against the drive side collar is that normal?
great video, what would be the best way to remove the drive side bearing
Once you've removed everything else as shown above you can use something like a bit of old broom handle inserted from the non-drive side of the hub and a hammer to drive it out. Just take your time and vary where you hit the bearing to keep it straight on the way out. If it goes over at an angle then knock it back in a bit too straighten then try again. Don't just keep hitting. Hope this helps. Realistically this bearing should never need to be removed as it is strong enough to last the life of the hub. (ie. Indefinitely)
@@gsportgeorge Thanks a lot, but i seemed to have damaged mine somehow, it no longer spins smoothly. I do some pretty heavy riding though
@@AN1M3DR4W3R cool just wanted to check you weren't being over zealous.
My hub is slipping, what should I do?
i have the v2 hub and i cant seem to get the collar off any tips?
same issue
Just changed tyres. Forgot I blew up my drive side collar. It's in 4 pieces, placed that shit back like a god and bolted her back up.
Now watching this for a more reasonable solution 😭😅🤦🏿♂️😂
Sorry to hear it. Get on to warranty, they should be able to hook you up.
@@gsportgeorge is it bad that I didn't even think of that. 😂. Probs had it 6 month. Tbh I've been trying to dial down my tail whips and I've been crashing hard. It's a customer issue, not manefacturer lol
@@FAHRENHEIT451JL it's designed to be ridden hard, collar shouldn't break, I'm sure we can warranty it for you.
@@gsportgeorge ill put an email in. I've got some major drag on it. Spun my vandero once, spun the clutch 3 times and when the rear stopped the front was still going strong , so I need help either way. ( definitely down to the before mentioned.)
I really appreciate your reply George. I've got so much love for odessey; you just took it to the moon.
Enjoy your weekend fella!!! 💪
@@gsportgeorge sorry to ask fella. My drive side collar is stuck and will not come out. I've got the v2. Any advise
My coaster is skipping like 6 times before it engages and it does it every time I pedal and it’s broken do you know what I can do
Have you tried adding a lot more grease? 99 times out of 100 this fixes any issues. You can add through the adjustment hole but will need to work it down to the driver end. Hope this helps.
My clutch hub is like rice krispies. Snap, Crackle, POP. Most embarrassing noise ever out of it. every time I pull a trick it makes a very loud POP noise. I've squeezed nearly a full tube of phill wood grease in there and it still does it. Chris at odyssey sent me some new internal parts. When I opened it up, there was nothing wrong looking with the current parts. What is up with this Hub? Grease isn't helping.
lotlifebmx drop me an email please so we can figure it out.
do you know how to adjust the slack on the Sunday ciclone freecoaster??
Should I take mine apart if it’s making bad cracking sounds when I pedal? Sounds like a bearing is shot
Yes. Probably a good idea.
my clutch v2 is having a really hard time moving in either direction, no problems and then i put my wheel on my new frame and it feels like the chain is too tight no matter how loose i run it, added grease, made sure my half link was facing the right way, and added spacers to space out the sprocket and align the chain better. any ideas? im going to take it apart right now.
update: i started taking it apart and my driver started coming out easily by hand, but all of the needles of the driver were sitting loose in the hub, is that not something that is just set in or should it be able to come apart like that? (this hub was taken apart before at my local bmx shop to replace the axle, maybe that is why it is loose?)
Was going to suggest putting it back in your old frame to see if the frame is somehow responsible but sounds like you've moved on from there.
The needles should be in a cage. If the cage has broken then it will obviously need a new cage assembly.
Is there significant wear or corrosion visible? How long have you had the hub?
I’ve got a squeak coming from my Sunday cyclone when I put pressure on the pedals shall I breeze the driver
George100 grease? Yes. Grease the hub through the adjustment hole too.
Hey George, I’ve been riding the Clutch V2 coaster for about a year and a half and it’s doing great. Very stable and durable. My driver feels rough, and I’d like to take it out to clean the needle bearing, but the collar won’t come off. I read your other comments, so I’m going to try to use penetrating oil. My question is, when you say to tighten the non drive side onto the dropout, do I still need to pull off that large cone nut in order to pull the driveside collar out, or will it come out whilst the non-driveside is bolted down with the cone nut still on? If it comes out without taking off the non-driveside cone nut, please let me know so that I don’t damage my hub trying to take it out. Thanks!
Hi Dude,
Sorry not following your description very well. There are no cone nuts, just push fit collars. All you need to do is pull hard.
If it is corroded on there then some penetrating spray is a good start. Bolting the other side of the hub to something to help you pull is one way to go but not really going to help enormously.
If you can get the non-drive-side collar off, then you can remove the circlip on the non drive side and this will let you knock the axle out as shown in the video, which will release the drive side collar.
Maybe watch the video again to get what I mean.
Hope this helps.
George French appreciate it, I wasn’t sure if that piece you pulled off along with the bolt was a cone but or an axle so I just had to guess what to call it haha
George French I’ve got the driveside collar out now, but the driver came out when I pulled it out, and now it won’t go back in completely. I don’t believe there is any damage because it engages and disengages, but I can’t seem to drift the axle through the non-driveside and the non-driveside bearing seems to have drifted more towards the center of the hub somehow.
@@pejotaforpres have you taken the circlip off? Sorry if this seems obvious but without having the hub in front of me need to be sure to cover everything.
Assuming the circlip is out the axle and non drive side bearing should be able to be driven out the non drive side. You must support the hub in a way that leaves space for the bearing to exit.
If your only reason for working on the hub was to grease the driver bearings then you should probably just do that, and then put the driver back.
Where does the driver hang up when trying to reinstall? Is it on the first part of the bearing seat trying to go into the drive side bearing? Or do you maybe need to screw it into the clutch lump?
You can always email me photos and video etc to g at gsport dot co dot UK.
Hope this helps.
George French I have removed the circlip - I’m going to use the email you provided. Thanks!
Can I still ride my wheel with the grub all the way in?
Be better not to. It really should come out the hole with a bit of shaking. You might need to stick a screwdriver through the hole to push the helical adjuster halves back together. Otherwise just follow the video to take it apart.
Clutch v2 - my drive side collar has snapped. Can’t seem to pull out the collar, just comes out a bit. Any help?
Sorry to hear that, please contact warranty about a replacement.
Can you switch drive side
No. Sorry shells and drivers are side specific.
What can i do if my drive side collar is stuck ?
Just follow the rest of the instructions and the collar will be left behind in the driver as you drive the axle out the otherside. Hope this helps.
@@gsportgeorge it worked thank you 😊
Yo I've had this coaster for like 4 mouths and it's just started wobbling even though the wheel is tight on the frame
Sorry to hear of the problem. That isn't normal. It's a common problem with other brand's coasters but ours is very different in this respect. Have you taken it apart to see if you can find where the problem is? If you aren't confident doing that then best bet is to take it to a good shop for them to troubleshoot.
Hi George I would like some help here please if you don’t mind. I recently bought the complete Gsport Rib x V2 wheel and for some reason I cannot loosen the bolts. What I mean is one side loosens and the other tightens and vice versa.. help! :) it’s more than likely what I am doing wrong but it’s my first time with a coaster so not sure what to do. I am just trying to loosen both sides to put the wheel on. Thanks!
Hi Sergio, just loosen the side that you can and then bolt this up tight to a dropout (with the wheel outside the bike frame) then you can undo the stuck side. Hope this helps.
George French you are a rockstar! Worked!
I just got the hub and it won't spin fast enough for crankflips.
Sorry to ask, but do your cranks spin without the chain on freely? And also your chain is not tight? However i'm not surprised that the hub doesn't crankflip well, if there was no resistance in the hub then it couldn't engage as the clutch would just spin with the driver instead of binding and moving into the hub to engage. It's another reason why this current design and KHE design is really quite bad.
Hey George I wanted to know what is your preference on grease to use on this hub? I just got mine and wanted to know so when I need to grease it I have to right stuff
Any bearing grease should work. I use a very standard automotive one. Just make sure you are generous with it.
hey george, should i wait a while before adjusting the slack or should it be fine to adjust right out of the box?
if you are coming from a cassette I would recommend trying the stock slack for a while but there is no reason you can't adjust it straight away.
thanks for the reply, when mine arrives tomorrow ill just adjust it stragitht away
Cheers!
Ive got a weird noise / wobblie i dont know what it is i bought it today and im a bit of a noob with freecoasters. I dont know whats wrong it makes a terrible sound as if the wheels loose but its all tight, the rotating thing with the needles behind the driver moves up and down and also shifts the axle. Is this normal??
Malik Ghariss sorry can't follow your description. drop me an email maybe with pictures or video and I'm sure we can figure it out. G at gsport.co.uk
George French thank you jll make sure to do that soon
hi george, i recently purchased this hub, i got it assembled by a bike mechanic at my local shop after i got it ordered in , today was my first day riding it and the drive side collar snapped into 3 pieces, i was really bummed because i heard this hub was really strong, i don't understand what happened to it. will a replacement piece be available or do i have to buy a new hub? i just spent alot of money on this hub and for it to break on the first ride really got me bummed out
thanks, kye
hey Kye, sorry to hear of the problem, never heard of anything like that before. please contact warranty at odyssey so we can get you a replacement sorted under warranty. please send us back the broken part so we can work out what went wrong.
+George French thanks for getting back to me, I'm from australia, so do i contact an australian dealer and send it to them?? or do i try contact odyssey, and have to send it to america , I'm okay with having to pay the postage fee for an international post.
+Kye Wilson either the shop you bought from our the Australian distributor bmx international should be able to help you sort this out. or drop me an email and I'll sort it personally. g at gsport.co.uk
+George French okay sweet, how long of warranty do i have? i leave to japan on tuesday and won't be back until mid january next year, will the warranty still last until i get back to sort this out?
+Kye Wilson that's not a problem we can do it when you get back. at least a years warranty but we are usually much more generous.
My clutch hub makes this popping noise when I stop pedaling you think that's a problem?
it's not going to cause any damage but it's obviously not ideal. please add more grease to fix it.
When i tighten the wheel the cranks dont move back freely.. the chain is still loose.. what could be the issue. I have the odyssey clutch v2..
When did you last add grease? Always first thing to try.
@@gsportgeorge about 8-9 months ago..
@@gsportgeorge even just hand tightening the wheel bolts make the cranks have resistance going backwards
@@gsportgeorge plus it was perfectly fine before I took the wheel off..
Hey .. a few questions about the durability of this hub.. Is it really as durable as the company claims? I have heard stories of it breaking on them . One guy told that he broke two hubs .. so what kind of tricks could damage it?. And what are the improvements on the v2 over the v1?. Sorry about these questions .I am about to order a sunday streetsweeper and it comes with the clutch v2. So I would really like to know your thoughts before I make that payment..
DINO IDEAS durability is excellent as long as it isn't abused. That means avoiding letting it get loads of grit or dirt inside and not jet washing all the grease out etc. In terms of riding, you should be able to use pedal pressure for tricks and do all the usual peg tricks without problems. We get very few warranty issues and where that does happen we will always try to get things sorted as quickly as possible.
Although the v2 and v1 look very similar the v2 uses an oversized clutch mechanism so that it can use a full 14mm female bolt configuration (whereas the v1 has a 3/8" bolt on the drive side due to the smaller axle diameter).
Hope this helps.
George French thanks!.. how often do you think I should take it apart for cleaning to keep it healthy?
DINO IDEAS only if it seems like there is a problem. Adding some fresh grease through the adjustment hole once or twice a year would be good but otherwise just wiping it off once every few months should be all it needs. If you have to ride through super heavy rain a lot or it goes in a lake or something then some more grease might be good but otherwise leave it alone.
George French so for the most part it's less maintainance and more riding? Sounds like it is as durable as any cassette hub.. I guess I'm gonna order the bike then..
Anybody else have problems removing the cir clip. Any tips?
The obvious answer is circle pliers, but I appreciate that lots of people don't have them. If you have some fine needle nose pliers then they might work.
hey i just got my odessey cluth hub i guess i was turn it the wrong way amd the screw for the slack adjustment went side ways in the hub can u make a video to fix this
+LionFG You're looking at it. You'll probably need to take the hub apart as shown then put the grub screw back in. Just note that it needs to go in the half of the helical adjuster nearest the drive mechanism so you can reach it from the access hole. Hope this helps.
+George French thanks
Watching him made my hands shaky hah (holding my phone)
Same steps for V2? Cracked driver collar and need to remove it.
Yes. But if you just need to remove the collar then you should just be able to pull it off without disturbing the rest of the hub.
Stuck in there tight. Not coming out easily. Hard to get a grip on it. Moved it, maybe 1/16th out. Seeing what Phillip at Full Factory, suggests, also.
@@snivlem999 it should be very close to coming free now. It only grips on the end 1/8" or so. Removing the circlip and drifting the axle out the far side will definitely get it.
George French I wish the non-drive collar would come off easily. Stuck fast, too. Can’t get to clip. Thanks for the help, sir.
@@snivlem999 if necessary you can stick a screwdriver in the gap between the non -drive-collar and the hub-shell to pry it off. Just be careful not to mark the parts.
i decided to adjust my slack and found my grub screw just kept spinning??
were you adding or reducing slack? grub screw may have come out far end of its socket. suggest disassembling hub and see what's what.
hope this helps.
I think the white plastic may have cracked around the screw hole due to being over tightened the screw doesnt seem to be doing anything at all
+Tim Wood I would still open her up and have a look. If you have stripped the thread then please contact warranty and they should be able to hook you up with a replacement easily enough.
okay thanks
My bolt disappeared when I tightened the slack
So what will have happened is that you've screwed the grub screw all the way through the helical adjuster. If you shake the hub about with the access hole as the lowest point you should be able to retrieve it. Then you just need to line the hole in the shell up with the correct thread hole in the helical adjuster half nearest the drive side and put it back in.
Hope this helps.
@@gsportgeorge it's not coming out🥺
My drive side collar is stuck and will not come off I've had the hub for 2years
chris Reeves have you tried the usual stuff like penetrating oil? Just be careful not to get it into the bearings as it will wash the grease out.
Another helpful trick is to bolt the other side of the axle to the outside of a dropout so you can hold the axle without marking it while you try to turn the stuck collar. Hope this helps.
+George French alright thanks I'll get right to it and try!
HI! I was wondering if any drive side hubguards are compatible with this hub since it has the drive side collar piece?
The G-Sport Uniguard will fit this (and most other hubs)
thank you!
+George French my axle keeps re threading
Sorry I don't know what this means. Email is probably a better way to give more detail.
+George French we have sent an email to George@gsportbmx.com is this the right email
What type of grease do you recommend?
Add bearing grease, it's the best grease for your hubs, both front and back.
How do you get the axle off on the clutch v2?
Should be the same as this video.
@@gsportgeorge its quite different.. it doesnt look like It's gonna slide out that way.. there is a cone shaped thing holding it in place
@@gsportgeorge there is no collar that pops off like that..
hey why does my axle move side to side
when the hub is not on the bike the axle can move because it needs the pressure from the dropouts to locate everything.
+George French also when i bounce the back wheel it makes a rattling noise
LionFG Again. The hub needs to be assembled to the bike to locate everything.
+George French. how long does it take for odessey to send back the replace meant parts i have been waiting a week and i live close to california i live in vegas
Hey george how do i grease this hub?
+SuperCrazy1222 I would recommend just squeezing more grease in through the adjustment hole as described in the video.
ok
+George French what about in the future would i have to open it up to grease because wouldnt i need to take off the old grease to put on new grease?
My rollers were all rusted im going cassete
I have a clutch V2 wheel and my drive side collar wont come out of the hub. I work at a shop and none of the other mechanics were able to get it out. I would put a blow torch to it but I am worried about possibly melting/damaging the plastic gap mechanism. Is this a common issue or am I just doing something wrong? fyi i have had this wheel for almost a year
Sorry to hear of the issue. No that's not common. Is it possible that the collar has corroded onto the axle? Can you rotate the collar relative to the axle? Some penetrating oil between the axle and collar may help free it. Try to avoid using heat (as you say it will damage the plastic parts and seals).
If the collar seems free on the axle then just keep turning the collar (either direction it back and forth) as you pull it out.
Hope this helps.
What do you do when the driver comes out and leaves the drive side bearing still in the hub
Do you need to remove the bearing?
Yes! I need to replace mine. What’s the best method for removing the driver side bearing wants to driver is already out?
So…. what I did to remove the drive side, bearing once the driver was already removed was use my park tool RT - 1.
It is a headset and bottom bracket cup removal tool. I inserted it into my hub upside down. I used the end that you would typically hit with a hammer to rest against the inner race of the bearing . It fit perfectly inside the inner bearing race and free a few taps on the opposite end, I was able to pop it right out.