Ya, it's just inexperience from the electrician installing it.. there's absolutely no reason to do it, and it only makes more work for everyone later on.. (it's just that person doing this hasn't yet experienced trying to remove a wire in this full spiral splice of bond wires 😁) Thanks for your comment!
That ain't as bad as my house. All my light fixture boxes were way over filled with connections of multiwire branch circuits. I think the worst one had two 12/3 and four 12/2 going into it. Ive been separating them all with junction boxes next to them in the attic and just running the the power to the light or fan like you were saying. And all my grounds look like that too lol, it is a pain.
Yeah this happens a lot when a journeyman is not overseeing their apprentice properly. Keep the power at the light switch, then just bring a switch leg up to the light box. That way you don't have to get a ladder, take down the light, only to figure out that it doesn't have the wires you're looking for.. See this video/article for the light switch power: becoming-an-electrician.com/never-run-power-to-a-light-box/ Sadly, this isn't even taught in school.. I learned only from good journeymen I had the privilege of working under.. They spend so much time on "schematic circuitry", but don't teach best practices for maintenance and workflow!!!
@@BecomingAnElectrician Thanks for the link, ya that is the way to do it. My house was built in 79 and the power runs to the fixtures/fans, they repurposed the neutrals as a hot back to the switch. That doesn't bother me as much as the overloaded box fills. Did they always have box fill codes, Thank you
@@BecomingAnElectrician Thank you. One video that I would love to see is a video comparing and contrasting BX cable, MC cable, and Greenfield (flex) conduit, and how grounding is accomplished across the three.
@@vince6829 Thanks for the request - I don't think this will be something I'll cover - I've only really dealt with just BX (Armored Cable) or flex (and liquid tight), where you pull individual wires through. Here's a helpful resource I found, though!: forums.mikeholt.com/threads/armor-cable-mc-ac-bx-etc.73744/ I do plan on creating a BX (armored cable) video soon about how to remove the armor, etc.
That is true, if a fan is there. That is a good point that I forgot to think about. However, you can see by the amount of wires they used this basic bedroom light as a junction box, making it very hard for trouble shooting. If it were a 3-wire just for a ceiling fan, they would have just had the 3 wire in there. There's no other lights in the bedroom. (So not well thought out for maintenance).
Excellent information, I've seen over twisted ground wires and always wondered why. Love your videos.
Ya, it's just inexperience from the electrician installing it.. there's absolutely no reason to do it, and it only makes more work for everyone later on.. (it's just that person doing this hasn't yet experienced trying to remove a wire in this full spiral splice of bond wires 😁)
Thanks for your comment!
That ain't as bad as my house. All my light fixture boxes were way over filled with connections of multiwire branch circuits. I think the worst one had two 12/3 and four 12/2 going into it. Ive been separating them all with junction boxes next to them in the attic and just running the the power to the light or fan like you were saying. And all my grounds look like that too lol, it is a pain.
Yeah this happens a lot when a journeyman is not overseeing their apprentice properly. Keep the power at the light switch, then just bring a switch leg up to the light box. That way you don't have to get a ladder, take down the light, only to figure out that it doesn't have the wires you're looking for..
See this video/article for the light switch power:
becoming-an-electrician.com/never-run-power-to-a-light-box/
Sadly, this isn't even taught in school.. I learned only from good journeymen I had the privilege of working under..
They spend so much time on "schematic circuitry", but don't teach best practices for maintenance and workflow!!!
@@BecomingAnElectrician Thanks for the link, ya that is the way to do it. My house was built in 79 and the power runs to the fixtures/fans, they repurposed the neutrals as a hot back to the switch. That doesn't bother me as much as the overloaded box fills. Did they always have box fill codes, Thank you
Good advice.Thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome.. thanks for the comment. Always feel free to request a new electrician tutorial 🙂
@@BecomingAnElectrician Thank you. One video that I would love to see is a video comparing and contrasting BX cable, MC cable, and Greenfield (flex) conduit, and how grounding is accomplished across the three.
@@vince6829 Thanks for the request - I don't think this will be something I'll cover - I've only really dealt with just BX (Armored Cable) or flex (and liquid tight), where you pull individual wires through. Here's a helpful resource I found, though!:
forums.mikeholt.com/threads/armor-cable-mc-ac-bx-etc.73744/
I do plan on creating a BX (armored cable) video soon about how to remove the armor, etc.
@@BecomingAnElectrician Thank you for the link.
The splice allows to install a ceiling fan without the fan shutting off when you turn the lights off
That is true, if a fan is there. That is a good point that I forgot to think about. However, you can see by the amount of wires they used this basic bedroom light as a junction box, making it very hard for trouble shooting. If it were a 3-wire just for a ceiling fan, they would have just had the 3 wire in there. There's no other lights in the bedroom. (So not well thought out for maintenance).