Mark, thank you for taking the time and effort to show and explain all. Great insight for those who want learn how to build a better aircraft, no matter what kit they have chose to build.
Thanks Mark , it's nice to see that you are bringing the factory work up to the standards of the rest of the build! Appreciate all of your time and efforts! Blue Skies!
Just curious... given your attention to detail and aptitude, have you given any thought about 'plans' building ? Seems to me that you meet the criteria for being a serial builder! Just think about all the different modifications and improvements!?
Your attention to detail is inspiring. Once I've seen the idea you use, I file that away for future use in projects I do. Thank you for the excellent video once again.
Love that you are thinking' primer on those inside Aluminum parts and if you needed a hand doing that and I was 2,000 miles closer ............. You'll have a great plane when finished,...... and an epoxy paint on steel will last forever out of the sun.... ... just wish that I was in a position to build this plane... I have a 'outside the box' paint scheme in mind already. Thanks for the Video this morning.... stay COVID safe.
As a manufacturer I use bolts in all of my assemblies. Bolts that have a smooth shank section (Grip length) are made the way they are to tightly fit two surfaces together so that there won't be any side movement in the joint or shearing force. You are supposed to get resistance when bolting these fasteners through a joint aka hole to get rid of that lateral movement that may become possible especially in a high vibration zone.
Prices vary wildly so it isn't much use to say what I paid here, but I had the two torque tubes, and the white tail piece, and a small tube powder coated for $40. Super cheap.
Are those floating Nutplates ? ... if so, you should add 2 x the radial float to the diameter of the bolt for a final hole size typically around .225" dia for a #10 fastener (3/16" dia bolt) , if the radial float is .015".
The close tolerance hole (.201" dia) goes in the access panel and the floating Nutplates on the mating structure provide positional tolerance for all of the hole-to-hole relationships.
My UL350iS drips from the drain plug, the rpm sensor and from the bottom of the oil cooler. Getting ready to do the Condition Inspection and am going to flip the cooler over and mount it like the factory recommends. The other two leaks I have not been able to stop...
I've discovered a product called KBS Coating, goes on like paint (with a brush) self levels and is possibly stronger than powdercoating. I'm not sponsored or anything but I use it in my project car and the stuff is amazingly strong. Maybe check out their site and poke around.
Hi Mark.
Finding your videos truly inspirational.
Your eye for detail is incredible.
Really enjoying this build.
Steve.
Mark, thank you for taking the time and effort to show and explain all. Great insight for those who want learn how to build a better aircraft, no matter what kit they have chose to build.
The King of overkill! Love it. Keep on keeping on.
Thanks Mark , it's nice to see that you are bringing the factory work up to the standards of the rest of the build! Appreciate all of your time and efforts! Blue Skies!
Just curious... given your attention to detail and aptitude, have you given any thought about 'plans' building ? Seems to me that you meet the criteria for being a serial builder! Just think about all the different modifications and improvements!?
Thanks Mark coming along nicely, like always great detail and thought out process⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Your attention to detail is inspiring. Once I've seen the idea you use, I file that away for future use in projects I do. Thank you for the excellent video once again.
It is inspiring to see the progress you are making and the quality of work you do. Always watching for a notice of your next video!!
Well it's a good thing YOU discovered the leaking oil drain plug! 😉
Thanks a lot
That coating on the steel is called mills scale
What is the coating? Is it added as a rust preventer? It sure is nasty! LOL
Its whats left behind from the manufacturing process... its a pain but has to come off for everything welding, paint
Love that you are thinking' primer on those inside Aluminum parts and if you needed a hand doing that and I was 2,000 miles closer ............. You'll have a great plane when finished,...... and an epoxy paint on steel will last forever out of the sun.... ... just wish that I was in a position to build this plane... I have a 'outside the box' paint scheme in mind already. Thanks for the Video this morning.... stay COVID safe.
Concerning the arm rest brackets; Lots of work. Why not make some of the speciality items from Kevlar? Easy to do once your set up.
As a manufacturer I use bolts in all of my assemblies. Bolts that have a smooth shank section (Grip length) are made the way they are to tightly fit two surfaces together so that there won't be any side movement in the joint or shearing force. You are supposed to get resistance when bolting these fasteners through a joint aka hole to get rid of that lateral movement that may become possible especially in a high vibration zone.
It sounds like you’re not understanding what I’m explaining in the video. I’ll clarify it in the next video so you’ll understand exactly what I mean.
Can you explain what you do to prep for the Chromate primer? Do you need to sand or acid wash?
Looking great Mark. Just curious about the cost of powder coating. Can you give us an idea how much it cost to have the torque tube powder coated?
Prices vary wildly so it isn't much use to say what I paid here, but I had the two torque tubes, and the white tail piece, and a small tube powder coated for $40. Super cheap.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast wow that is cheap. Thank you so much for the information.
Are those floating Nutplates ? ... if so, you should add 2 x the radial float to the diameter of the bolt for a final hole size typically around .225" dia for a #10 fastener (3/16" dia bolt) , if the radial float is .015".
The close tolerance hole (.201" dia) goes in the access panel and the floating Nutplates on the mating structure provide positional tolerance for all of the hole-to-hole relationships.
My UL350iS drips from the drain plug, the rpm sensor and from the bottom of the oil cooler. Getting ready to do the Condition Inspection and am going to flip the cooler over and mount it like the factory recommends. The other two leaks I have not been able to stop...
It's called the "shoulder" of the bolt, and it's a sanding drum. :D Words are hard sometimes right? Especially when the camera is turned on. lol
So true!
I've discovered a product called KBS Coating, goes on like paint (with a brush) self levels and is possibly stronger than powdercoating. I'm not sponsored or anything but I use it in my project car and the stuff is amazingly strong. Maybe check out their site and poke around.
Thanks will do.