That's a beautiful plane. Nice work and obviously good results. I've been looking for a review like this. It's over my skill level at this time. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I have had the V1 for about six years now and I am very happy with it as stock on a 3S 2200. I just put a strip of Blenderm tape on each of the hinge lines and under each of the canopy pins to stop it cracking. I removed the stock cockpit floor so that the battery can slide back under the wing joiners to achieve the same CoG as you have. Rate of climb is fine on the stock motor and prop - it's not a hot liner and not meant to be.I have used crow but still find problems in getting enough drag. I have had a pair of Hobby King air brakes around for a while but still have to fit them. I also mix the flaps and ailerons for full width flaperons. I have a rudder aileron mix as well as aileron differential to keep the turns balanced. I also mix down elevator with the throttle to stop zooming under power. I agree that this is not a beginners plane. While not particularly difficult to fly launching requires respect and without proper brakes it needs a lot of room to land. Speed range is quite limited and past passes are all noise and no action. It will thermal really well though and have had 2 hour plus flights. I enjoy its smooth scale like flight. You can see me flying mine here ua-cam.com/video/YVUcY7jEpeo/v-deo.html One suggestion after watching your launch, particularly the first on with the horrible tip stall, is to launch the aircraft level with about 60% throttle. Let it build up a bit of speed in level flight before opening the throttle.
Watched your video - very nice. I have quite a few hours on my ASW 28 now and have launches down. Can land the plane fairly short using a slow prop for drag, full flaps and a steep descent with slip. My flight area rarely develops thermals of any significance so my longest flights are typically 30-45 minutes. I have ruder and aileron coordination - do not bother blending pitch with throttle. I have experimented with the CG and feel it is best as suggested. The thrust angle I feel is the origin of pitch with power issue, but it is not bad enough to change the motor mount. Made a new canopy with some clear, light, flat plastic packaging. it is lighter, less brittle, and is flexible enough to only need unbuttoning on one edge to access battery. Happy flying.
Thanks for your review. Good points. I've been flying a Phoenix 2400 for three years now and thought I'd just transition straight over to the V2. There ARE differences. Power is probably going to be my first upgrade. Interesting how you sealed the flaps . . . lots to think about!
Your idea of sufficient performance and mine are very different, I fly the stock prop, motor and esc on 3 cells, very heavy with two 5Ah packs in parallel, it weighs over 2kg and flies fine for me, though I must admit I cannot hand launch without using the flight controller to keep the wings level during the toss, I had three launches in a row just like your cartwheel first launch, by the time I got my throwing hand to the ailerons stick after throwing, the plane was already 90deg bank and unsavable. I swallowed my pride and turned on a stabilised mode and no problem after that. The ailerons and elevator are live and correcting the whole time during the throw and it saves it every time.
That we can find solutions to individual flight characteristics that fit our personal perceptions is the genius of the RC world. There is never only one solution or perception that can be successful. I prefer my non-commercial RC flight to be electronically neutral as possible. My revenue flying is however with expensive equipment and constantly changing environments -it would be naive to operated outside of a stabilized environment. However, I find aircraft set-up (fixed-wing) needs to be as flight friendly as possible to avoid surprises. For all my fixed-wing aircraft, I build to a performance expectation. We are not so different. Our expectations and thinking are affected by our individual different skill sets and backgrounds and we have found solutions that work for us. Good job and an insightful comment.
Great review, thanks! There are people who fly it stock and say it is ok though I guess your mods are worth the effort. I'm considering getting one of these!
I have some very specific tastes when it comes to aircraft having spent a lifetime in airplanes. I merely offer my ideas that are no better or worse than anyones''. I say enjoy the plane however you like. For me, modification is a major part of enjoying RC flight. It is a great plane out of the box, no doubt. Just remember, anything "production" has had to find a middle road. Compromises are made for general appeal. Make it too fast and beginners will drill it into the ground, too slow and it is ho-hum. Crash it a few time and you'll learn what needs to be done. That is what I did! This is what is great about RC!
I have just purchased one and fly it standard. The only observations I would make are that the standard CG position gives a very nose heavy aircraft. I now fly mine with the battery (3S 2200mAh) positioned above the wing spars rather than under the pilot. I principally use mine as a sloper, so only need the motor if the lift dies and I don't fancy landing at the bottom of the hill. In that respect, the motor and standard prop are more than adequate. The only mod I am contemplating is changing the connectors for the aileron and flap servos to make it easier to put the wings on.
Jesus guy.. I feel bad man you went through some work with this plane... But I'm glad someone did...nice..job and your patience should stand alone..... I subscribed..
Very much appreciate your video,,, as well as all the ASW28 video's contributed by so many others. After returning to RC after a 40 year absence,,, I find much has changed. My own ASW28 recently arrived,,, however significant shipping damage now finds me waiting for the replacement wing kit. Needing all the radio and propulsion equipment,,, I ordered 4c batteries,, 50a ESC,, 10 channels,, 11x8 props,, based on the reviews I have read. My background has been in thermal and slope un-powered semi-scale gliding. E-flite just looks so much easier. I do plan to extend the entire trailing edge of the wings by adding a balsa t/e strip. The poly-pro (is there a brand name ?) laminate sounds like a good idea. The replacement wing kit should allow me to have a repaired set of "development wings" to experiment with. I did order an electronic stabilizer, even though it was not clear how needed it would be. From what I have read,, correcting the CG,, and adding a bit more negative AOA on the tail plane are strongly advised. Flying it fast to avoid tip stalling is critical. Oh,,, I ordered a spare canopy as well. Laying low during this covid winter will allow me a lot of build time. But I hope to avoid the 100's of hours that I used to pour into my Multiplex kits. Cheers, and keep up the great posts and video's,,, Alan
I'm right with you.. she's together, this guy what do a lot of work with this plane,.. I'm starting to shake like a little girl sitting in my bedroom...lol.. a lot of work this guy did to this plane... I don't like to see that but I bought it it's mine..
I have one and run it fine on 3 cells stock. Just give it takeoff flaps to launch because of the thin wings. I left the wheel on and added weights to the tail. As in a full scale , during roll out want to balance it on the wheel as long as possible. I use my more rugged gliders for off field.
59 mm aft of leading edge is my compromise. I have found it will fly a longer if the cg is further forward but then my ASW presents with instability at low speeds.
i coat the the epo hinges with rubber/ airplane type glue i been using for years i buy a tube for under $4... i have built over 50 epo planes over the years and when i do this to hihges i never have any come loose or tear...This is a big nice glider for the price for sure...I have a phoenix 1600 that is made by same company which is also a very good flyer...Just needs prop and motor upgrade imo..
I removed the flap servos and will seal the flaps, because I have found flaps on a different electro glider to be ineffectual, and distract my thermaling concentration. I also removed the wheel and cut away the cavity enough to slide the battery in under the plywood tray. That way I can tape the canopy shut. I am looking for a better fitting spinner- that rudolph red nose reindeer looks so bad
The ASW 28 is very sensitive to center of lift position. Flaps can help you adjust cp to need. I use a large aluminum spinner that is a good third larger than that supplied with the kit. Prop balance is also important for this small motor glider.
Big ones are: -the Aerostar 13 x7 carbon fiber folding prop -mine fit right on the stock hub - don't forget to balance the group -the Talon 35 ESC from Castle Creations. I've tried other brands and have always run into issues. Castle Creations do what they advertise -the hinges are polypropylene - I sourced this from clear flat stock used for packaging like for Christmas card boxes--it should be about 0.015 inches thick and flat. Hobby stores sell this stuff too but, $$$ -the hinging of the ailerons is very tedious and may be done after or if they show signs of flexing or separation. I would also take the time to make them full length and give them a good 1/4 inch flex radius - this will stop drag from air moving between surfaces and add a little more aileron command. I would also make them top hinged but that is me -top hinging done wrong could lead to surface separation. Don't do it if you have any apprehension about its strength. -my rudder takes a beating on landings so I would reccommend a full length hinge that allows for about 3/8 inch between the rudder and the vertical empennage - This will give you no gap between the surfaces, and a large radius to prevent the hinge from point fatigue - It will be very strong too. My first hing cracked because the flex radius was too small. -the battery strip is just a thin piece of maple ply with a full length strip of velcro on it to mate to the front velcro. -the laminate is from Aloft Hobbies. I used 10 mil for the bottom of the wings and control surfaces, 5 mil for the top of the wings - and tail. -the rudder servo I substituted is a Turnigy 380Max metal gear, but a composite or metal gear servo of the right size would likely do just as well - especially if -the rudder guard is used. That can be plastic like from a bottle or form pack -- As long as it is flat and about 0.030 inches thick.I just happen to have a flat piece of carbon fiber to use -don't do the lights unless you do night flight. -The split flaps were really helpful for me. I realized this when I set the flaps back to stock configuration an controllability became more demanding. -The paper for the flap change is 8.5x11 card stock. The trailing edge is 3/16 inch square cross section balsa. I fixed the paper above the flaps before laminating the top of the wing to minimize turbulence. Hope this helps A word about the motor. I like this motor and it is well suited for this plane but, it is not top quality. The shaft is not hardened and will bend if you subject the nose to a hard blow. Mine bent when a heavy downdraft caught the plane in a landing approach causing a near vertical impact. Minor damage elsewhere, but the motor shaft was irreparable as was the prop hub! I also found that despite the my original cg being a somewhat a nose heavy situation - making it more neutral did not enhance the performance as much as deteriorated the maneuverability. Hope this helps. Good judgement will serve you well with the ASW28 ...Happy flying. CFI
@@DTomasic Thanks for the long list! I just bought this airplane and my first starts were catastrophic! 3 starts and 3 crashes ... On the 4th try, after having moved the battery in its rear-most position, it worked and I had a nice fly. However, I still find it pretty difficult to get this airplaine up in the air. I see that you haved changed the props and also the ESC. Does the starting get much easier with your configuration? I am hesitant to invest more money in this plane as it already has some damages from the previous crashes... I'm kinda desperate right now regarding this plane but yours looks so stable in the video ... What would be an essential modification to make in your opinion?
You quote a model ASW28-V8 I am not familiar with. If you mean ASW-28 V2 2.6m used in my video review, eBay may give you a fair price, but a search on the internet should give more options that may better fit your situation. Don't forget, you will need a radio, receiver, and an appropriately sized battery.
That's a beautiful plane. Nice work and obviously good results. I've been looking for a review like this. It's over my skill level at this time. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I have had the V1 for about six years now and I am very happy with it as stock on a 3S 2200.
I just put a strip of Blenderm tape on each of the hinge lines and under each of the canopy pins to stop it cracking. I removed the stock cockpit floor so that the battery can slide back under the wing joiners to achieve the same CoG as you have.
Rate of climb is fine on the stock motor and prop - it's not a hot liner and not meant to be.I have used crow but still find problems in getting enough drag. I have had a pair of Hobby King air brakes around for a while but still have to fit them. I also mix the flaps and ailerons for full width flaperons. I have a rudder aileron mix as well as aileron differential to keep the turns balanced. I also mix down elevator with the throttle to stop zooming under power.
I agree that this is not a beginners plane. While not particularly difficult to fly launching requires respect and without proper brakes it needs a lot of room to land. Speed range is quite limited and past passes are all noise and no action. It will thermal really well though and have had 2 hour plus flights. I enjoy its smooth scale like flight. You can see me flying mine here ua-cam.com/video/YVUcY7jEpeo/v-deo.html
One suggestion after watching your launch, particularly the first on with the horrible tip stall, is to launch the aircraft level with about 60% throttle. Let it build up a bit of speed in level flight before opening the throttle.
Watched your video - very nice. I have quite a few hours on my ASW 28 now and have launches down. Can land the plane fairly short using a slow prop for drag, full flaps and a steep descent with slip. My flight area rarely develops thermals of any significance so my longest flights are typically 30-45 minutes. I have ruder and aileron coordination - do not bother blending pitch with throttle. I have experimented with the CG and feel it is best as suggested. The thrust angle I feel is the origin of pitch with power issue, but it is not bad enough to change the motor mount. Made a new canopy with some clear, light, flat plastic packaging. it is lighter, less brittle, and is flexible enough to only need unbuttoning on one edge to access battery. Happy flying.
Thanks for your review. Good points. I've been flying a Phoenix 2400 for three years now and thought I'd just transition straight over to the V2. There ARE differences. Power is probably going to be my first upgrade. Interesting how you sealed the flaps . . . lots to think about!
Your idea of sufficient performance and mine are very different, I fly the stock prop, motor and esc on 3 cells, very heavy with two 5Ah packs in parallel, it weighs over 2kg and flies fine for me, though I must admit I cannot hand launch without using the flight controller to keep the wings level during the toss, I had three launches in a row just like your cartwheel first launch, by the time I got my throwing hand to the ailerons stick after throwing, the plane was already 90deg bank and unsavable. I swallowed my pride and turned on a stabilised mode and no problem after that. The ailerons and elevator are live and correcting the whole time during the throw and it saves it every time.
That we can find solutions to individual flight characteristics that fit our personal perceptions is the genius of the RC world. There is never only one solution or perception that can be successful. I prefer my non-commercial RC flight to be electronically neutral as possible. My revenue flying is however with expensive equipment and constantly changing environments -it would be naive to operated outside of a stabilized environment. However, I find aircraft set-up (fixed-wing) needs to be as flight friendly as possible to avoid surprises. For all my fixed-wing aircraft, I build to a performance expectation. We are not so different. Our expectations and thinking are affected by our individual different skill sets and backgrounds and we have found solutions that work for us. Good job and an insightful comment.
Awesome review with lots of info about modifications. I will definitely apply them once I receive my ASW within a few days. Thank you, subscribed.
Great review, thanks!
There are people who fly it stock and say it is ok though
I guess your mods are worth the effort. I'm considering getting one of these!
I have some very specific tastes when it comes to aircraft having spent a lifetime in airplanes. I merely offer my ideas that are no better or worse than anyones''. I say enjoy the plane however you like. For me, modification is a major part of enjoying RC flight. It is a great plane out of the box, no doubt. Just remember, anything "production" has had to find a middle road. Compromises are made for general appeal. Make it too fast and beginners will drill it into the ground, too slow and it is ho-hum. Crash it a few time and you'll learn what needs to be done. That is what I did! This is what is great about RC!
I have just purchased one and fly it standard. The only observations I would make are that the standard CG position gives a very nose heavy aircraft. I now fly mine with the battery (3S 2200mAh) positioned above the wing spars rather than under the pilot. I principally use mine as a sloper, so only need the motor if the lift dies and I don't fancy landing at the bottom of the hill. In that respect, the motor and standard prop are more than adequate. The only mod I am contemplating is changing the connectors for the aileron and flap servos to make it easier to put the wings on.
Jesus guy.. I feel bad man you went through some work with this plane... But I'm glad someone did...nice..job and your patience should stand alone..... I subscribed..
Very much appreciate your video,,, as well as all the ASW28 video's contributed by so many others. After returning to RC after a 40 year absence,,, I find much has changed. My own ASW28 recently arrived,,, however significant shipping damage now finds me waiting for the replacement wing kit. Needing all the radio and propulsion equipment,,, I ordered 4c batteries,, 50a ESC,, 10 channels,, 11x8 props,, based on the reviews I have read. My background has been in thermal and slope un-powered semi-scale gliding. E-flite just looks so much easier. I do plan to extend the entire trailing edge of the wings by adding a balsa t/e strip. The poly-pro (is there a brand name ?) laminate sounds like a good idea. The replacement wing kit should allow me to have a repaired set of "development wings" to experiment with. I did order an electronic stabilizer, even though it was not clear how needed it would be. From what I have read,, correcting the CG,, and adding a bit more negative AOA on the tail plane are strongly advised. Flying it fast to avoid tip stalling is critical. Oh,,, I ordered a spare canopy as well. Laying low during this covid winter will allow me a lot of build time. But I hope to avoid the 100's of hours that I used to pour into my Multiplex kits. Cheers, and keep up the great posts and video's,,, Alan
great review. Maidening mine soon, waiting until little or nil wind.
I'm right with you.. she's together, this guy what do a lot of work with this plane,.. I'm starting to shake like a little girl sitting in my bedroom...lol.. a lot of work this guy did to this plane... I don't like to see that but I bought it it's mine..
i reckon i could fly it stock with the correct cg. looks great for calm to moderate wind slope soaring
I have one and run it fine on 3 cells stock. Just give it takeoff flaps to launch because of the thin wings. I left the wheel on and added weights to the tail. As in a full scale , during roll out want to balance it on the wheel as long as possible. I use my more rugged gliders for off field.
Thanks for the detailed review 👍
Great thoughts on a great motor glider
The V2 has upgraded motor and servo,s metal gears, also the tube in the wing run full lengt now, so no flexing
Nice Review! And I really like your Plane support can you make a video or explain how you make.
Great review! Thanks for the info!
I too have taped the flaps up and just use a longer landing area
You're right about the brittle canopy, what is your best c of g position?
59 mm aft of leading edge is my compromise. I have found it will fly a longer if the cg is further forward but then my ASW presents with instability at low speeds.
Can you tell me how to build THIS stand?
i coat the the epo hinges with rubber/ airplane type glue i been using for years i buy a tube for under $4... i have built over 50 epo planes over the years and when i do this to hihges i never have any come loose or tear...This is a big nice glider for the price for sure...I have a phoenix 1600 that is made by same company which is also a very good flyer...Just needs prop and motor upgrade imo..
Good tip, I'll give it a try.
I removed the flap servos and will seal the flaps, because I have found flaps on a different electro glider to be ineffectual, and distract my thermaling concentration. I also removed the wheel and cut away the cavity enough to slide the battery in under the plywood tray. That way I can tape the canopy shut. I am looking for a better fitting spinner- that rudolph red nose reindeer looks so bad
The ASW 28 is very sensitive to center of lift position. Flaps can help you adjust cp to need. I use a large aluminum spinner that is a good third larger than that supplied with the kit. Prop balance is also important for this small motor glider.
Put 40 amp ESC....bit of pwr to spare😁👍
Can you post parts list for said mods, mine is comming this week and I don't want to crash it, thanks
Big ones are:
-the Aerostar 13 x7 carbon fiber folding prop -mine fit right on the stock hub - don't forget to balance the group
-the Talon 35 ESC from Castle Creations. I've tried other brands and have always run into issues. Castle Creations do what they advertise
-the hinges are polypropylene - I sourced this from clear flat stock used for packaging like for Christmas card boxes--it should be about 0.015 inches thick and flat. Hobby stores sell this stuff too but, $$$
-the hinging of the ailerons is very tedious and may be done after or if they show signs of flexing or separation. I would also take the time to make them full length and give them a good 1/4 inch flex radius - this will stop drag from air moving between surfaces and add a little more aileron command. I would also make them top hinged but that is me -top hinging done wrong could lead to surface separation. Don't do it if you have any apprehension about its strength.
-my rudder takes a beating on landings so I would reccommend a full length hinge that allows for about 3/8 inch between the rudder and the vertical empennage - This will give you no gap between the surfaces, and a large radius to prevent the hinge from point fatigue - It will be very strong too. My first hing cracked because the flex radius was too small.
-the battery strip is just a thin piece of maple ply with a full length strip of velcro on it to mate to the front velcro.
-the laminate is from Aloft Hobbies. I used 10 mil for the bottom of the wings and control surfaces, 5 mil for the top of the wings - and tail.
-the rudder servo I substituted is a Turnigy 380Max metal gear, but a composite or metal gear servo of the right size would likely do just as well - especially if
-the rudder guard is used. That can be plastic like from a bottle or form pack -- As long as it is flat and about 0.030 inches thick.I just happen to have a flat piece of carbon fiber to use
-don't do the lights unless you do night flight.
-The split flaps were really helpful for me. I realized this when I set the flaps back to stock configuration an controllability became more demanding.
-The paper for the flap change is 8.5x11 card stock. The trailing edge is 3/16 inch square cross section balsa. I fixed the paper above the flaps before laminating the top of the wing to minimize turbulence.
Hope this helps
A word about the motor. I like this motor and it is well suited for this plane but, it is not top quality. The shaft is not hardened and will bend if you subject the nose to a hard blow. Mine bent when a heavy downdraft caught the plane in a landing approach causing a near vertical impact. Minor damage elsewhere, but the motor shaft was irreparable as was the prop hub!
I also found that despite the my original cg being a somewhat a nose heavy situation - making it more neutral did not enhance the performance as much as deteriorated the maneuverability.
Hope this helps. Good judgement will serve you well with the ASW28 ...Happy flying. CFI
@@DTomasic thank you so much for your time and feedback
@@DTomasic Thanks for the long list! I just bought this airplane and my first starts were catastrophic! 3 starts and 3 crashes ... On the 4th try, after having moved the battery in its rear-most position, it worked and I had a nice fly. However, I still find it pretty difficult to get this airplaine up in the air. I see that you haved changed the props and also the ESC. Does the starting get much easier with your configuration? I am hesitant to invest more money in this plane as it already has some damages from the previous crashes... I'm kinda desperate right now regarding this plane but yours looks so stable in the video ... What would be an essential modification to make in your opinion?
Where can get a ASW28-V8 glider, and a phone number so I can call to order, please help, thanks
You quote a model ASW28-V8 I am not familiar with. If you mean ASW-28 V2 2.6m used in my video review, eBay may give you a fair price, but a search on the internet should give more options that may better fit your situation. Don't forget, you will need a radio, receiver, and an appropriately sized battery.
Porcaria soldi buttati
Apparentemente trovi AS28 un acquisto poco saggio!