Unlocking Extreme Power: DIY 3600W High Voltage DC to DC Converters!
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- Welcome to the ultimate power playground, where we're breaking barriers and pushing boundaries with our DIY 3600W High Voltage DC to DC Converters! Ready to elevate your projects to the next level? This tutorial is your golden ticket to harnessing jaw-dropping power with just two 1800W constant current, non-input-output isolated DC to DC boost converters.
🔍Key Features:
Extreme Power Boost: Witness the magic as we combine the forces of two 1800W converters to achieve an astonishing 3600W output. Say goodbye to limitations and hello to limitless possibilities!
Voltage Flexibility: Learn the art of converting voltages as low as 12V up to a staggering 180V DC. It's not just a converter; it's a voltage alchemist, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary!
Step-by-Step Build Guide: Dive into the nitty-gritty details with our step-by-step guide. We'll walk you through the entire process, ensuring you're equipped with the knowledge to replicate this powerhouse setup.
Safety First: Your safety is our top priority. Discover the precautions, tips, and tricks to handle high voltage setups like a pro. We've got you covered every step of the way!
Real-World Applications: Explore the vast array of applications for your newfound power beast. From DIY projects to powering up electronic experiments, this converter opens doors to a world of innovation.
Welcome to The Innovati0n Lab!
USED COMPONENTS: Affiliate links
1500W DC to DC Boost Converter: amzn.to/4a0GASD
Power Inductor: amzn.to/44rjPpC
22 Gauge Copper Inductor Wire: amzn.to/3UIrwVx
12V 750W Server Power Supplies: amzn.to/3Wn5KaO
Kaiweets Smart Digital Clamp Meter: amzn.to/3UF4gro
0 to 300V, 0 to 100A, DC Digital Power Monitor: amzn.to/4djjZnd
48V 1000W Water Heater-Test Load: amzn.to/3UKHBtS
Rotating Display: amzn.to/3UGcC1I
6 Gauge High Current Silicone Wires: amzn.to/3UGoRLJ
Big Aluminum Heat Sink: amzn.to/44mTl8K
100A Circuit Breaker: amzn.to/3y95xxS
60A Circuit Breaker: amzn.to/4doyBS6
Timecodes
0:00 - Chapter 1: Intro
8:59 - Chapter 2: DC - DC Boost Converter Test Setup Build
15:47 - Chapter 3: DC-DC Converter Test Setup Safety
20:39 - Chapter 4: DC-DC Converter Outputs in Series, the Isolated Battery Method
24:55 - Chapter 5: DC-DC Converter Outputs in Series, Using Isolated Server Power Supplies
32:12 - Chapter 6: DC-DC Converter testing, Isolated Server Power Supplies (Modified Setup)
41:00 - Chapter 7: Summary & Lessons Learned - Наука та технологія
Interesting experiments, thank you for sharing with the audience
Thanks for the wonderful feedback.👍👍👍
We appreciate all your support.
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I really like these DC converters I would love to see more videos with them in different configurations whatever you can think of!
Thanks for the wonderful feedback!
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The feeling is mutual.
Stay tuned, my friend, and thanks for the support!
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Thank you for this video, this answered a question in my mind. God job
Awesome!👍👍👍
I am happy that you found some good value from this video.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 im trying to visualize and understand article 690.7(B)(2) of NFPA 70 2023. You video helps a lot, Thanks
Subscribed 😊,
Keep doing such useful contents 🎉
Thank you so much!
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I appreciate your wonderful feedback!
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Great work, just discovering your channel and like it
Thank you so much!!
I appreciate the great feedback.
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Nice video.
Subscribed.
Thanks!
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I use this booster daily in my e-trike. I boost the voltage of the motor drive to increase the speed. Works fine...until one day I had to drive far,mean long time and the booster failed. The flaw is the 3 x 15A fuses in parallel.. very bad design. Never the current will be equal in the 3 fuses, so at 35A. one fuse may exceed the 15A rated and blow, the 2 remainings share the 35A and blow also. I replaced the 3 x 15A fuses with a one 40A (I need only 35A) and since no more problem. Out of that, great boosters and very good video, good job.
Thanks a lot for such wonderful feedback.
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I am here to learn from the experiences of an amazing audience like you!
I totally agree with you.
Fuses, even though considered simple passive devices are quite tricky, it takes a great deal of design experience and research to get it right.
Selected fuse type and value have to be just right to project your power system without encountering nuisance blowing.
Here are the things I usually consider.
-Nominal fuse current rating
- the I2T melting point.
- fuse type (fast/slow blow)
- power system inrush current....plus a few more.
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback!
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I still felt like the two parallel boost converter outputs should have worked, and didn't quite understand the electronics you created to get it to work(that was beyond my comprehension why the boost converters failed), but I thought that something simple should have solved that problem like maybe some diodes and resistor in the middle or maybe opamps or even optoisoators. I'm glad you did the series video as it looks promising and simple.
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback.
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I hear what you are saying. However, as we showed in the video, the paralleling was not a total failure as it worked at light loads - especially when you slowly ramp up the load. However, this method becomes unstable and unreliable when you are switching on instantaneous heavy loads...for example going from 0W to 1500W.
The diode 'ORing' method would only work efficiently at low output power demands.
But you are right, with more additional circuits, months of testing, and possibly multiple converters damaged....you can get it to work. As for me, it wouldn't be whorth the effort.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 Friend, if I want to handle high powers 1,500 w or 2000 w for 54 V motors... do I connect the two in series? Likewise, the lower the voltage, the greater the amp it will use?
спасибо спасибо очень полезная информация
Thanks a lot!
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We appreciate the positive feedback.
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The reason why you are not convinced that your readings are accurate is because they aren't 😉You are comparing both of your power meters to each other and I can assure you one or both of them are not reading an accurate current value because they should have been exactly the same. Try them in series to see if the current readings are in any way the same.
Agreed.
That was the reason why I modified the test setup to remove any ambiguities or confusion.
Thanks for the feedback, though.
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Man...if you are expecting to get big power...
12 V input..1800 W = 150 A
On that teensy wiring...
Even 10 ga. Wire will drop 22+ W , and the wire you're using is maybe 12 ga. 33 W
So, i don't think that any of the connectors are rated for 150 A...
Wonderful feedback!
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You are right about the major limitation with 12V inputs, and we have covered this in great detail in multiple videos.
However, the purpose of this video is to experiment on the converters' output response when they are connected in series...the goal was not to conduct a full load test.
Also, the power cables are tinned guage 10 wires and not gauge 12. Giving the short length, those cables should be able to support more than 40A.
One last thing to mention is that the converters have an input current limit of about 30A....this means that you are always going to be input current limited regardless, so there is no need for bigger guages - especially for a short duration test.
I hope this clarifies things.
Thanks again.
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Can author help me:
1) give a link to buy the load monitoring (black-box)
2) givel a link to buy the inductor
@mohd.shafiebakar7620
I made the 3d design for the power monitor and I plan to sell them on our website soon.
But you can buy the actual meter from Amazon or ebay.com...it is called "THE MULTIFUNCTION DC DIGITAL POWER METER"
I am still working on the inductor design and you should be able to order it from our website very soon.
Our Website:
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I like the stands you made for these boards! Would you be willing to share the design so others can print? Cheers
Absolutely!
Those I can share, with our audience, but only foe personal use.
I am working on our website and you should be able to download things like this in these future.
Coming very soon.
Stay tuned, my friend!
We appreciate all your support.
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-The Innovati0n Lab💥
I skipped two of your videos immediately 2 or three seconds after starting, because of the sparking in the modules. I thought that the conclusion of your video is negative "I attracted you with thumbnail and title. But look look everything burns off, dont try it!". But third time I thought, I should try and watch the whole video and see what it is. Nice experiment.
Hahaha!!
Thanks for the amazing feedback!👍👍👍
I am always happy to get our audience's perceptions of our videos. You have given me something to think about for the next video's intro.
I added those clips to arouse curiosity....but I see your point, though!
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback.
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Hey...wait a second...if they are non-isolated...i think that, if you lose input power on one device, its output will shut off, but the other DC/DC is putting 60 V into the output of the converter....without looking at it, could be reverse polarity on output capacitors, reverse voltage on switches...altogether, maybe sub-optimal..might be a plan to put a big old diode on each output.
Wonderful feedback!
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I like the way you think and you are making some great points. This is exactly part of the risks that I was talking about in the video - especially using the battery method.
However, my biggest concern is on the risk of damaging your high voltage load devices as a result of the under voltage that would result from one battery dropping out.
The output voltage of the system of series converters will be lowered by a factor of 1/2 in an instant....this could destroy the device that you are supplying power to. Think of going from 120V to 60V in an instant. We usually think more of over voltage conditions, but extremely low voltages can also damage your devices.
Thanks again for the wonderful feedback!
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Hi what if the same power source and you connect the output in series ?what is the possible problem thanks.
It won't work because the input and output of both converters share the a common ground. I explained it in the video.
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Is it posible too for the two bridge rectifier to be connected in series its dc ouput to double the dc output voltage?
Yes.
But you can also use a higher voltage transformer. Or if you have two separate transformers , you can connect the outputs in series first - this way, you can use only one rectifier.
There are many ways to accomplish a function like this. It depends on the components you are working with and your desired efficiency.
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Hello. Great work. I copied you and built just about the same setup to charge 176vdc lithium battery. The converters get so hot. Is there a better converter out there they is higher wattage?
Awesome!👍👍👍
I am glad to hear that you found our videos helpful!
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I have not seen any other converters out there that beat these ones - especially giving the power specs, wide input/output voltage ranges, and the very affordable price.
Have you considered adding a powerful cooling fan to your converter setup?
How much charging current are you pulling from your setup?
One thing you can always do to reduce the heat dissipation is to de-rate your output power by doing a slower charge - with lower charging current.
Heat on any system is an unfortunate undesirable waste that we all wish we could get rid of... but that would require converters that run closer to 98% efficiency or better....but those would not cost $25 for a 1500W unit - if and only if, you can find them.☺️
I hope this helps.
Please we are looking for some help from our audience to grow this channel. You could help us reach a wider audience by sharing our videos, that will be greatly appreciated.
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www.theinnovati0nlab.com
You might want to know this that other blue box sets the shut off voltage. I set mine to 12.6 with a PS. When it hits that the output will drop to the input voltage and shut off my 24 v to 110v inverter.😊 Also a red led lights up so its easy to set. Oh u talk about it i use mine to protect my batteries.
It seems you are talking about the Under Voltage Protection (UVP) function.
I dedicated an entire video to talk about this function.
Our audience really needs to start checking out all the content we have made on this converter.....lots of good test and review videos.
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I spend a great deal of time providing a ton of useful information in these videos....and these videos are actually expensive to make...factoring my time and resources.
Selam bana 1 önceki video da 150 v yükseltme videoda ırf 264 mosfet takmistiniz irf 264 yaniyor kısa devreye düsuyor bunun bozulmamasi icin nasil mosfet kullanmaliyim
I responded to this in your other comment.
Thanks
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do you have a schematic for your load controller or resistor values
Not yet.
Can i use 2 converter as a dual supply power supply
Great question.
Giving that the outputs are essentially floating, I don't see why it wouldn't be possible.
Again, for this to work, you MUST have totally isolated and floating input power sources to each boost converter - just as we have shown in this tutorial series. Please watch the entire video.
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Hello friend, so if I have 2 of these 40 A (1800 W) devices, do I have to connect them in series because they are damaged in parallel? And this way I can get more amps with lower voltage?
This setup essentially gives you a higher output power by allowing you to inctease the output voltage....it doesn't really do much for boosting the output current beyond the specified limit.
Also, the 40A spec you mentioned is the input current limit.
You may find this video interesting. We are currently working on the follow-on video.
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I hope this helps.
Please, we need your help to grow our channel by sharing our videos on social media.
Visit our website at www.theinnovati0nlab.com
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If you have to build a transformer, then just build one that outputs the voltage you need, no reason to use two dc-dc boost converters!
You can buy pretty cheap 12vdc to 120vac inverters, and then convet the ac to dc and buck/boost it to the needed voltage.
I have some big lcd tv's that need 75vdc to power the backlight leds strings and need to run on 12vdc battery. All my dc-dc can't go above 60vdc.
Wonderful!
Thanks a lot for the great feedback. These two converters combined in series should be able to provide close to 200V at greater than 2000W.
If you were to build a transformer powered 200V, 2000W power supply, you would be looking at a super heavy and highly inefficient converter system.
Transformer supplies with rectified outputs have a very low efficiency. Usually less than 70%. Lots of heat dissipation.
Thanks again for the interaction.
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The Innovati0n Lab 💥
www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I want to use an mppt solar controller to charge batteries THEN use a DC to DC boost converter to simulate solar input to my Hybrid converter, cloudy days, late afternoon .. I saw someone who did this and it seem quite feasible, IM targeting about 200-240V DC 6 amps, so [Seperate Standalone Solar Panels] -> [MPPT] -> [24V Batteries] -> [DC-DC] -> [Hybrid Inverter when low solar] -> [House Load]
Wow!
It sounds like a super interesting project, I hope it was as planned.
Please share your findings with us here if you don't mind.
As long as you are using a battery as a buffer between the solar panel and the dc to dc converter, your project stands a better chance of being successful.
Best wishes!
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Hi. So the INPUTS of the boost converters should NOT(!) be paralleled from a SINGLE battery output? Only separate input power sources allowed? Thank you.
That is correct.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 Can the two boost converters somehow be 'isolated' from each other when connected to same battery? Diodes maybe?
@anatoliyovdiy6466
If they are input to output isolated converters, the inputs of both converters will be connected in parallel, but the outputs would be isolated from each other.
I hope this helps.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 Hi, what would be an optimal way to 'boost' 12V DC to 55V DC, having 2 boost converters like yours and single 12V input source for them? I want to avoid big currents to keep everything as cool as possible. Have boost converters in parallel both inputs and outputs with diodes on outputs? Thank you
if those are in series, wher's the 0.3A difference coming from?
might wanna calibrate the power meters a bit .....
ah, addressed already :o
didn't trust powermeters in series :D
That was why I changed the setup.
Güç gostergesi olmadan dc converterin cikisina seri baglasam olur mu
Absolutely!
If you watched the entire video, you would have seen that one of the power monitors was removed later on, and the outputs of converters got connected directly - in series. However, I added one power monitor at the overall output because we needed to measure the amount of load we are applying to the system.
I hope this addresses your question.
Thanks for the thoughtful question.
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The more powerful option would be to regulate the voltage with one potential.
I like the way you think!
But honestly speaking, I don't think it will be the best idea. You never want to mix up the feedback control signals from separate converters - with separate control loops.
But that's just my thoughts....I am not saying it is outright impossible to do.
What are your thoughts on how to implement something like that?
Please let us know.
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback and interaction.
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I want you to know that you have a very high pitched constant beeping sound in your microphone or something when you have the voiceover which is actually pretty loud too, I am not sure if everyone will be able to hear this as it is probably around 9000hz + -. you may wanna check where this comes from
You are 100% correct.
I heard this after I had published the video.
Honestly, I am not surprised because the test setup had multiple high-frequency switch-mode power supplies all buzzing away as I was recording......I will have to adjust the sensitivity of my mic.
Or maybe try to filter them off during editing.
Thanks a lot for such constructive feedback!
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 No problem :) I could hear it more in certain locations in the video so you might be correct about interfering devices.
Btw, do you know about the inverting buck converter mode where you can use two buck converters with a single rail and get double the voltage out where one is positive and the other negative?
It is absolute black magic, I did experiment with this myself too.
You essentially connect one buck converter to your power source as usual, say 15 volts,
Then you take the second buck converter and parallel the positive input with the first buck converter. Next you bridge the negative connection from the first buck converter and connect this to the second converters positive output (this will be the common ground) and leave the negative side of this converter floating.
Then you power this up and adjust the voltage to a desired level but let’s just leave it at 12volts on both converters.
If you then measure the voltage using the common ground the first converter will have +12V and the second converter -12V and if you measure between the first + out and to the second negative you will actually have 24V output. A higher voltage than your source using regular buck converters. Magic! And they also regulate the voltage as normal.
But the inverting converter will not take as much input voltage as the input will be lifted above the input to match the output.
If you measure the two inputs of the inverting converter you gonna see the higher voltage here. So you have this as a threshold reference. This mode also uses up some of the maximum current of the converter.
But the thing is you can get a dual rail common ground output with a single input.
I love that!
@Pulverrostmannen
Oh yeah!
Magic, indeed!
I can definitely find multiple applications for the resulting dual voltage rails.😊
Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge with our audience!
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 my pleasure, I am not first doing this though. It is very easy to make this using the big standard buck converters with China if you want to try it.
One word of caution though is that you need the input current to be high enough for the inverting converter to start up. If the input current is too low it might latch up and take damage so best is to have a decent current supply for this. But we talk quite moderate anyway but soft start or the likes is not recommended.
But I am quite curious to see if this works with boost modules too. I may wanna do some more experiments if this would be possible with such as you have in your video or if they self destruct.
But they do anyway LOL 🤣 I got a home made bench power supply with triple outputs and one have this 80volt booster you have and the switching FET in these are a joke for the task they have.
Not because the FET is poor quality but it is by their design completely wrong for the task.
The output is as you know 80Volts but the FET is like max 85 or what it was and you still have to deal with peak voltages and inverse polarity voltage and it is simply too narrow.
My FET broke down even when the output was not even loaded at all.
I replaced this FET with a pair of TO220 FETs a bit higher rated than IRF640 instead and they worked like a charm so far. Even surpassed the original one in abuse
Hello my wonderful brilliant friend. I loved the video, but I got confused to why you did certain things. I thought you would have serialized the input power supply's floating outputs to provide a 24V source and then either connected (similar to how you serialized the outputs) or not connected the common 12V to the two boost converters (connect boost + input to - input of the second boost). In addition to the fact the two independent power supply's grounds were isolated, you seemed to focus on the fact that the two power supplies were isolated from each other and wondered why do they need to be isolated from each other and how is it any different than if you created a 24V with a 12V center tap? For a 24V input to each boost converter scenario, instead of an inductor version, why not use two isolated 12V power supplies for each boost converter, thus having 4 PSU (48Vin) and 2 boost converters? [In this scenario I was thinking you would connect the center 24V to the two boost converters] That would reduce your currents and provide for higher output voltages. I would love to see that in part of your next video. Now you got me thinking back to my initial comment if you series connect the two power supplies as 24V to the two boost converters without the center 12v tap, if the two boost converters would be stable or heck if it even makes the boost converters operate more efficiently converging to the boost converters' optimal operating points.
Thanks for the very detailed feedback. I love the interaction. Hahaha!
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All your suggestions are wonderful! However, as you know, there are multiple ways of implementing such simple designs. But, one has to take the time to evaluate each approach to guarantee optimal performance, safety, and reliability. ⚠️😊
While paralleling the input could potentially become a viable alternative, it could, however, present some risks - especially in the event of a single converter failure. Also, I honestly don't see any added advantages that could be gained from using this approach.
Now, it could possibly pose less risk at a series of inputs of 12V ===> 12 + 12 = 24V.
However, think of a situation where someone copies this approach and instead of using 12V, decides to use the full 60V.....that is ===> 60 + 60 = 120V accross the series input of the two converters. This means that the boost converter on the high side of this connection will have a 120V potential difference when measured to the overall ground or negative.
This could expose the input filter components to a high voltage leakage path that could, over time, damage those components. This could also happen instantaneously with a faluire on one of the converters.
The isolated input method should be the safest, and it has shown to be equally reliable, so far.
Sorry, I didn't mean to turn this into a lecture...lol
But I hope this helps.
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Can I use this to boost my solar output from a range of 35-50v to a constant output of 90v?
Ideally I need 500-800v from my solar using only 4-6panels. Each panels have 42vmp to 50voc. I am unable to reach the desired voltage so can you help me?
Or can we DIY a converter that has input range of 120-300v and output of 500-800v. Output must be constant while input current and voltage can be variable.
I like that you are thinking outside the box. But it won't really be possible with these converters.
These converters need power sources that will provide steady-state power. Solar panels fluctuate will irradiance.
In a nutshell, I won't recommend you do it this way.
I hope this helps.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 is there any circuit diagram for voltage multiplier x2 x3 x4 types that are capable of accepting 10-20amps from a solar panel? With a voltage operating range from solar of 120vmp/voc-300vmp/voc
What if paraller with parallel potensioner volt and current output
Thanks for the wonderful feedback.
That was the test we conducted in the first video.
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Connect them in series with same power supply
I wish I knew how to do that. Please let me know if you know of a way to do it.
Клёвые штучки надо себе тоже заказать такой штуки 2👌👋
Yeah, those are really good for the price.
Just remember to apply external fan and try not to overload them, and they will last a long time.
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80V DC is enough to power directly a TV and other electronic devices such as laptops and chargers because they have built-in converters
Good Idea.
But remember that these converters have a current limit. This means that they can not replace your battery system.
Please see the video below for some tests we conducted on this subject.
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Thank!
Thank you for watching our videos!
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This support in 3d printer IS interested where Can i find it?
We are working on lunching our website this week. You should be able to download a printable copy of the stl file. Also, we will be able to sell printed copies to our U.S based audience soon.
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Do these DC/DC converters have any sort of Input current limiters? or will they allow themselves to be pushed to destruction every time?
Wonderful feedback!
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The quick answer is a no.
I am not surprised because these are cheap devices that we are pushing beyond the limits of what they are built for. It wouldn't be fair to pay less than $30 for a converter and expect it to have lots of built-in features and functions.
At the input, they have the fuses, and at the output, they have the output over current protection. However, the issue I see is that they didnt seem to account for efficiency losses at input .....meaning that by the time you get to the OCP trip point, either the drive MOSFET or fuses would have popped - you see more of this response/behavior at low voltage inputs...as expected due I×V.
Essentially, the efficiency varies with the input voltage level, so it is possible that at a delivered output current of 30A.....you may be looking at 45 to 50A at the input - especially if you are powering the converters with low voltage sources like 12V.
I hope this helps.
Again, great thinking and wonderful question!
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 Yip that makes total sense. It would probably take a microcontroller to monitor input current and voltage and have an input OCP level for all voltage levels and current input. Would also have to respond fast enough to keep it within the surge limit of the mosfet or fuse response time.
Thank you for the response.
@HellTriX
Absolutely, as if you read my mind. I have been thinking about making a fast acting software controlled electronic fuse.
Basically, it's a combination of cheap Arduino microcontroller and a solid state relay.....or maybe a MOSFET...we shall see. I will be showing some of my work on software controlled load stepping in the upcoming video.
Stay tuned, friend!
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 I'd maybe suggest a logic flipflop controlled by the arduino. Can cut the PWM signal to the DC/DC converter, put in an AND gate logic device and as long as the arduino gives it a high signal, the PWM can flow. If it goes over current,arduino toggles the flipflop and the DC/DC instantly shuts down. Faster than a relay for sure :D
@HellTriX
Absolutely! You are right.
However, the programmable electronic fuse concept is really not for a converter project. I'm mostly thinking about it for a different project.
Most PWM chips usually have a SHUT DOWN pin, and you can design a circuit that will activate the function when the operating conditions become unfavorable.
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Because mostly only millivoltage is available. Usually present in cello. And ampere is Milli ampere.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.👍👍👍
However, I didn't fully understand your comment.
Please elaborate if you don't mind.
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Can you filter out the high pitch sound ?
Thanks a lot!
I noticed that after posting the video as well.
Any suggestions on how to do that on a published video?
I will definitely watch out for that on the follow-on video.
Thanks again.
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ua-cam.com/video/XIFtSQ_Iyzo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=JeremyMorgan@@theinnovati0nlab782
is the voltage. This is millivoltage.
No it's not mV. All the meters on the setup are showing measurements in Vrms. So 120Vdc is 120Vdc.
I hope this helps.
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would this apply to dc-dc step down voltage regulator?
While it might sounds counterintuitive to step down two power sources and then combine them in a series configuration it might have certain advantages
lets take an electric bike that runs on 72v using 2x 36v 12.8ah battery packs in series that can continuously deliver 72v 30a. Now imagine that you need more torque for hill climbing or for more vigorous starts, you would need more than the 30a of current. My idea would be to use a third 36v12.8ah battery and use every 3 of them with its own step down voltage regulator and step the voltage down to 24v that in series still gives you the necessary 72v but now you would most likely be able to deliver continuously perhaps 45A with peaks up to 70A (with fully charged batteries.
there is probably a simpler way to achieve the same output ans I can't wait to hear about it
Cheers
Wow!!
I love your innovative way of thinking!!!👍👍👍
Yes it should also work with buck converters. I have done it in the past and both systems exhibited great stability.
The only reason I would discourage it will be that you will be taking 3X of the power losses as your efficiency will become addictive.
For example if you have a system of 3 buck converters in series with each converter attaining an efficiency of 95%, this means that you are losing 15% percent of your total delivered power.
Please, we need your help to grow our channel. You can support by sharing out videos on social media. You could also visit our website at www.theinnovati0nlab.com
I hope this helps.
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what number/series of toroid core?
I believe I showed a few different cores in this video. Which one are you referring to?
@@theinnovati0nlab782 i think i would to change the inductor, buat i can't find calculation this inductor.
TÜRKİYE'den Selamlar.
Thanks a lot!
Greetings to you too!
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Evet izlemeye devam ediyorum cok güzel olmuş
Bende denemek istiyorum bu sekilde 160 volt dc voltaj gerekli sorun olurmu dc converterler yanmaz umarim
Thanks for the great feedback. I am glad you like the video.
As to the reliability, I will be conducting more tests on this. Stay tuned, my friend!
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I love your ammeter. Where can I find one like that one? Thanks.
Thanks!
I bought the ammeter online from Amazon.
It's the Kaiweets KC602 AC/DC clamp meter.
@@theinnovati0nlab782 not the clamp meter but the one after the dc converters to measure the output.
The load transistor need the rating current to work alway use the resistor valve for the amperage rating so each transistor needs its own resistor that’s how npn and pnp or design to use can’t get add different full current and try to regular it with it base not going to work, so if the transistor is rated for 30 amp use a resistor that can allow 25 amp not full rating
Thanks a lot for the wonderful feedback!
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However, those are N-channel enhancement mode MOSFETs, and they are voltage controlled devices.
What you are describing is current controlled biasing - it should be more relevant to BJTs (Bipolar Junction Transistors). I love using MOSFETs/IGBTs because I don't want to deal with current controlled devices, hahaha.
Thanks again for the feedback, though, we appreciate it.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 if your using fet then the same application is use for higher voltage if but if you want to use as full current flow a pulse is required for that fet or not design to work at liner mode voltage over 21 volt for fully current flow without resistance to stop the internal dye from breaking like what happens to you today I design many fet our the years so I know this because I build fet and igbt but it’s good to see someone trying it though
@jobsjamaica9388
You are right.
BJTs could actually give a better linear response.
Actually, in my next modification for the load control module, I plan to implement a PWM control to avoid operating the MOSFETs in the linear region.
But you can totally drive MOSFETs in linear mode - especially if all you are looking to do is to burn power....and you have what is needed to cool them. You just need to make sure that you mentain a very tight margin around the VGS_THRESHOLD.....lots of electrical and thermal considerations have to be accounted for.
Thanks again for the wonderful interaction.
Your feedback is highly appreciated!
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 All my audio amps use Mosfets in the Linear mode so... I am really impressed by your set up here. btw..
Incandescent lightbulb does not care if the power is AC or DC as long as you are not overvolting them.
You are right.
As long as you are not using dc rated switches to control them
Please use Psu Huawei R4850g🙏🙏
Thanks for the wonderful feedback. But I am just using the power supplies that I currently have available at my lab. The goal of the video is just to know if the series concept would work. Maybe in the future.
Stay tuned.
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750 watts and at 1000 Watts your circuit overloaded so the configuration is Parallel and not Series. One Circuit would have worked exactly the same.
Thanks for the interaction. 👍👍
The outputs of the two converters are in series. Each converter has a current limit of about 30A.
So realistically, at 12V input, each of the converters (in series) can only have (12 × 30 = 360W) available at its input.
Now, when you consider conversion losses, that could leave you with a combined output power of about 700W..best case.
I have made multiple videos explaining the impact of input voltage levels on the delivered output power. I also explained the test setups in great detail in this video.
Check out the videos below.
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Product Review:
ua-cam.com/video/2KyBwwldqkk/v-deo.htmlsi=KEkf0itlof_iSyCW
ua-cam.com/video/WDWJ77WWkXc/v-deo.htmlsi=YQvmv6Xo1yvVhUn2
The Paralleled Converter video👇👇
ua-cam.com/video/EKqIIOe_q8k/v-deo.htmlsi=fl8LHYkNLU_kX7Yx
I hope this helps.
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Someone Explain the connection at 12:05!!!
You may ask a direct question to the content creator who built and tested the test setup and painstakingly made the video...or you may choose to ask a question to "someone" in the audience. It's totally up to you.
We hope you get a good answer.
Thanks for watching the video, though.
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@@theinnovati0nlab782 Thanks guys! I can do my research i'm being very lazy 😆 Thank you for this type of content upload.
@claybenson254 Ok so no feed back current into either device?
А якщо один перестане працювати, то інший подасть на конденсатор на виході напругу зворотної полярності тому він може вибухнути, тому деже важливо щоб вони обидва працювали синхронно, або потрібно добавити на виході шунтуючі діоди
Wonderful!
Great feedback.
Now you have to watch the actual video.😊
.....and you will see the diodes in my test setup.
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That,s not good for believed dc boost converter good work
Please explain more. I didn't understand your comment.
Thanks!
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Я лоханулся как то, думал их можно последовательно от одного питания
Not at all.
The concept is to use individual isolated power sources to provide input power to the converters.....then connect the outputs in series. I thought that was clearly illustrated on the thumbnail.
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Да я понял как у тебя сделано, полезное видео, удачи друг!@@theinnovati0nlab782
Music is kind of annoying.
Thanks a lot.
Your honest feedback - appreciated.
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However, can you be a bit more specific?😊
What do you recommend?
I am trying to tailor our video format to be reasonable. Some people have told me the opposite of what you are saying....so I am really trying to meet everyone halfway....at least, lol.
Let me know how you think we can make it better.
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Music that sounds like or is rap sounds annoying. Something more soothing would be better. @@theinnovati0nlab782
Not if you're using Quality speakers with isolated room 😊😂
Any music is ok just not so loud😊
There are people who do not understand the concept of constructive feedback. Such people clearly do not appreciate the amount of work that goes into these videos and how expensive they are to make.....factoring the value of my time and resources that go into making the videos.
They watch an entire video without saying simple 'thanks' for the effort....all they do is to fixate on small flaws to ding content creators.
- what was good about the video?
- what did you learn?
- Now, constructively suggest what we can improve on.
The music is either turned off or greatly attenuated during my commentary segments....if the track is too loud during the hands segments, maybe we can turn down the volume of our devices, ....yes?
Thousands of people are viewing these videos, and we literally cannot make everyone 100% happy all the time.
The hands-on segments will get super boring without the background music. Every song, every sound, every chime you hear in our videos are paid for, and they are not free!!
We are greatly inspired when our audience provides constructive feedback and is a little more appreciative.
I requested more specifics on the original negative criticism...but crickets!
Again, we can only do the best we can with limited manpower and resources.
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bro you can talk.💀💀
Hahaha!
Thanks for the feedback.
I realise that our audience is composed of people with varying levels of education and electronics experience, so I have to really make the effort to explain things as detailed as I could.
What may seem like over explaining to someone with an engineering or science background may be perceived as insufficient to a beginner or a non-technical person in the audience.
Thanks again.
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Tbh, I liked your video a lot. As recently I was planning to get my hands on one of these boost converters, really helpful and really enjoyed it, keep up the good work. And you are right explaining things helps a lot ❤️
Thanks!
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