This is not how you set your drag if you're doing it right, but you could use this to make sure your setting doesn't exceed your line's capability. The key to setting drag properly is ensuring the rod is fully loaded before it kicks in, it's not about line strength. It's more important to ensure the rod is fully loaded so you can use the rod for what it's designed to do, keep the fish pinned.
The weight wasn't in the shot, so I couldn't see it. But in order for this to work, the weight would need to be lifted in the air for you to be putting 10lbs of tension on the line. If you set your drag to only 2lb, it would react the same. All you know from doing this is that your drag is set to less than 10lb if the weight stays on the floor.
Hey Steve: I'm gonna have to agree with Brian on this one. The method shown only tells you your drag is less than 10 lbs. Also, I'd say there's no way your rod could lift that 10 lb weight up off the floor even with drag set to max (the rod would break).
@@Larry77777 if you pull the weight into the air without any drag slippage then adjust the drag on the reel to start slipping, I believe the technique is feasible. As to the rod breaking, it very likely would if it is high-sticked, but most of mine can hold 10 lbs in the air if they are at no more than about 30 deg off horizontal. I'll have to admit though, that I'm one of those people who typically sets drag by feel while I'm out on the water. I have also lost fish because I've set it wrong or forgotten to reset if after I changed it for some reason 🙄
Maybe now compare the weighted setting with a scale and see what the result is? Might be that you can find the 10# release and add a click (5 in vid +1) and have your “fighting” 10# drag...
I agree. The weight needs to be lifted off the floor with full drag. Once off the floor, slowly loosen the drag until the weight begins to drop. Now you should be really close to your desired weight setting.
Another weighty topic. Thanks. I usually go below the 50% mark but since I don’t use tournament line that will break before the advertised pound test but just normal line that often breaks beyond the advertised pound test, I guess I should feel more comfortable going up to 50%. Thanks.
In this "era," I was using Cadence rods and reels. I am moving away from Cadence rods since the tip broke on three of them last season. Not sure what I will settle on. I got some mid-priced (expensive for me) T-Zack rods and really like them so far. I can cast much farther now. I use Ardent Gliss line exclusively - very thin and strong.
I lock it only to back it off to the correct setting. By counting the number of turns to the correct setting from full lock, I can always return to that setting.
It depends on several factors, including water depth, current, and the type of fish you’re targeting. Light for shallow, calm, smaller fish. Heavier for deeper, current or wind, and larger fish.
Another simple but great idea!
Thank you once again for your work
Thanks again!
This is not how you set your drag if you're doing it right, but you could use this to make sure your setting doesn't exceed your line's capability. The key to setting drag properly is ensuring the rod is fully loaded before it kicks in, it's not about line strength. It's more important to ensure the rod is fully loaded so you can use the rod for what it's designed to do, keep the fish pinned.
thank you for that perspective
The weight wasn't in the shot, so I couldn't see it. But in order for this to work, the weight would need to be lifted in the air for you to be putting 10lbs of tension on the line. If you set your drag to only 2lb, it would react the same. All you know from doing this is that your drag is set to less than 10lb if the weight stays on the floor.
Hey Steve: I'm gonna have to agree with Brian on this one. The method shown only tells you your drag is less than 10 lbs. Also, I'd say there's no way your rod could lift that 10 lb weight up off the floor even with drag set to max (the rod would break).
@@Larry77777 if you pull the weight into the air without any drag slippage then adjust the drag on the reel to start slipping, I believe the technique is feasible. As to the rod breaking, it very likely would if it is high-sticked, but most of mine can hold 10 lbs in the air if they are at no more than about 30 deg off horizontal.
I'll have to admit though, that I'm one of those people who typically sets drag by feel while I'm out on the water. I have also lost fish because I've set it wrong or forgotten to reset if after I changed it for some reason 🙄
Good points!
Maybe now compare the weighted setting with a scale and see what the result is?
Might be that you can find the 10# release and add a click (5 in vid +1) and have your “fighting” 10# drag...
I agree. The weight needs to be lifted off the floor with full drag. Once off the floor, slowly loosen the drag until the weight begins to drop. Now you should be really close to your desired weight setting.
A gallon of water is roughly 8 pounds. A quart is about 2 pounds. Easy to improvise in the field.
This x100. Practicality is key and water + bucket doesn't get more practical
The old 5 gallon bucket trick
Great tip and easy to get right.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing and please keep it up!
You bet!
Another weighty topic. Thanks. I usually go below the 50% mark but since I don’t use tournament line that will break before the advertised pound test but just normal line that often breaks beyond the advertised pound test, I guess I should feel more comfortable going up to 50%. Thanks.
Steve, what rod are you using in this test?
I would really like to see what gear you use for your set ups - rod, reel, line and leaders.
In this "era," I was using Cadence rods and reels. I am moving away from Cadence rods since the tip broke on three of them last season. Not sure what I will settle on. I got some mid-priced (expensive for me) T-Zack rods and really like them so far. I can cast much farther now. I use Ardent Gliss line exclusively - very thin and strong.
Would be great to know what your Boca Grip method showed after this method to show the difference
lol... I gave the boca away.
Thank you for posting
You bet!
Very clever thank you sir
Good idea, thank you!
I've used a fixed scale and adjust the drag to whatever pound I need to
Another good hack, Steve. I don't see why you would lock your drag all the way down though.
I lock it only to back it off to the correct setting. By counting the number of turns to the correct setting from full lock, I can always return to that setting.
Gallon of water: 8.33lbs. _Adjustable:_ 1/2gal, quart; pint; 2gal; 3gal; etc.
Great idea! Thanks
Thanks!
You bet!
Cool idea
Thanks!
@@KayakhacksFishing you are very welcome
Good idea
Hello sir, I am a beginner. Can I ask you a question? Can you tell me how to choose the right jighead weight?
It depends on several factors, including water depth, current, and the type of fish you’re targeting. Light for shallow, calm, smaller fish. Heavier for deeper, current or wind, and larger fish.
I have always heard 20 to 30% setting of drag for the main line - like the idea - I struggled using a digital gauge
Yes, using the guage requires a helper.
Very nice
Wouldn't it be necessary to hold the rod straight at the weight so as to negate the flex of the rod?
I wanted to include the flex since that is in play when working a fish
I thought your drag was supposed to be set at 1/3 of your line capacity.
It is really up to you what you select. The key thing is to set it lower than the breaking strength of the line.
Been doing this for 45 years, cheap weights are available at thrift stores.
Your shop too clean ......lol set the hook brother
lol! It's actually what I consider a mess right now.... old habits from the Army about being organized
An unused workshop.
lol!