EMPI Dual 34mm EPC Carbs on Air-Cooled VW Beetle | Setup & Tuning
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- Опубліковано 16 лип 2021
- In this video I detail the procedures for setting up the linkages and tuning the EMPI dual 34mm EPC carb kit that I am using on my 1966 Volkswagen Beetle with a single port 1680cc engine. Note that I still however need to pull the carbs back apart to downsize the jets as it is still running too rich after following these steps.
Link to this specific EMPI dual 34mm EPC carb kit:
www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.as...
Check out my channel for other detailed videos on this build, and more.
Thanks for watching!
Instagram account:
/ jmk_garage
Subscribe to my UA-cam channel for some more garage build & racing videos:
/ @jmkgarage
All parts for build purchased from:
www.cip1.ca - Авто та транспорт
Thank you sir, this will help a lot. And thanks for the shout out.
Hey, no problem. I seem to still have some issues… starts great from cold, but when hot and turned off then restarted when still warm, it seems to be flooded. Seems to me that the floats need to be adjusted, which is apparently a pretty common requirement with cheaper carbs such as these. Looks like I will need to pull back off and make sure they are set properly, and use that opportunity to downsize the jets too. Hopefully I can find time to do that and get running again before summer is over.
This reminds me I gotta tune my moms beetle. Double thumbs up 👍
Haha, get on it buddy… fortunately none of this messing around for yours once you have that Subi motor running
@@JMKGarage yup. I was gonna say I can't wait but its been many years in the making hahahah
@@boostedpower5417 haha, soon enough you’ll get there man. You’ve made some good progress already
@@JMKGarage been on a lil break. Gonna hit it hard soon
Very good video!!
Thanks Slade! Really appreciate hearing that from you 🙏
Nice work!
Thank you 🙏
when you rejet carb ,my guess would be 55 idles/135 mains and most importantly change your emulsion tube to an f6 size otherwise you will always run rich with what e/tube that was supplied .As far as air corrector jets only bother to replace them if car does not run smoothly at 4000rpm. I learnt this after a lot of mucking around, so consider this your free kick. p.s floats and needle jets should always be adjusted or replaced before you start playing with jet sizes as this is a foundational step .If you follow these instructions you will find these Empi carbs to be a good upgrade to your 1680cc.Perhaps upgrading to an extractor exhaust and 1.25 rockers to round your motor into a torquey fun vw driver.
Hey Anthony, thank you for this info!
After this video, I found it to still be running noticeably rich, and when running for a while would seem to start flooding itself out. Always started up great when cold, but really struggles to start when hot. I ended up taking the carbs off, fully disassembling and cleaning, setting both floats (they were not set proper), then reassembling and going through the same setup process. Carbs still aren't my expertise.... I wrote down the following jet sizes that were in it.... 175, 150 (main?), 40, 55 (idle), and I believe the emulsion tube was already an F6. I then checked fuel pressure (mechanical pump) and was getting somewhere around 8psi... tried a few of my pumps, different rod lengths, and shimming with extra gaskets, but could only get it as low as about 5psi... ended up installing a Holly fuel pressure regulator to keep it around 2-3psi. When cold, the car fires up, idles, and runs beautifully... makes great power and will spin the tires with ease... for only a short drive... power then seems to decrease, throttle becomes less responsive, and stumbles when coming off idle. It then again struggles to start when engine is still hot. I am still learning here, but am leaning towards ignition.... still 6v system with Bosch 6v coil, but just a cheap svda distributor (for 12v). I have a Pertronix electronic ignition distributor for 6v on order to see if that makes then needed improvement, but it is on backorder.... Hopefully that does the trick.
Also, I have the EMPI version of the Engle 110 cam… would you still add 1.25 ratio rockers on with that cam, or leave stock rockers?
And yeah, considering changing the exhaust, although I’m satisfied with how it is now
@@JMKGarage Fuel pressure will not be controlled by fuel regulator alone. You must use extra fuel pump gaskets under fuel pump to control pressure at rpm.Try 2 or 3 extra at least. The mains should be 135 and not 150[too large].Distributor needs to be mechanical adv type and set/check to 28-30 degrees adv. The svda distributor will not unleash the hp at rpm [Magnaspark mechanical dizzy recommended] . Needle seats need to be checked so that when fuel floats close they stop fuel from flooding carbs and hence causing over rich mixtures. Are you sure that floats have been set to correct settings.] You have a cam already so no 1.25 rockers required, but a 1 in 4 extractor of the correct diameter is necessary for unleashing hp from your combo. What gas flows in, needs to = gas flow out. Fuel filter should be relocated from engine bay for fire safety but too high a fuel pressure is the main cause of Vw engine fires so do not pin all your hopes on a fuel reg alone. Adding fuel pump gaskets under fuel pump will decrease fuel pressure that builds at higher rpm that will render the Holley regulator over run as well as stopping your engine from running rich. The combo of all these suggestions will give you power and stop the over fuelling problems you are experiencing. I HAVE GONE THRU THE SAME PROBLEMS AS YOU ARE HAVING AND RESULTS ONLY WILL COME IF YOU REPLACE THE PARTS MENTIONED AND CHECK YOUR SETTINGS AGAIN. IF YOU DO NOT FOLLOW THE SUGGESTIONS YOU WILL BE FRUSTRATED WITH THE CARBS AND YOU WILL THINK THAT THEY ARE GARBAGE, BUT IN REALITY THEY ARE DECENT CARBS BUT DO NEED THE CORRECT JETS/FUEL PRESSURE /FLOAT SETTINGS AND NEEDLE SEATS FUNCTIONING TO DELIVER A GOOD RESULT. TONY.
Relocate that fuel filter out of the engine bay lol
Haha, yes, already done that after seeing everyone else get roasted for that same thing on the Facebook groups. It’s now underneath the gas tank, although would be more convenient to get at to replace if I moved it into the rear right wheel well.
Turn it 12v. You need to tighten the arms to the bar, move the rod on the right carb to the left side.
I’d really like to keep it the original 6v… everything with the 6v works good, just limits me with to the mechanical fuel pump.
The arms are tightened to the bar… I just loosened them off in the video when I was changing their position.
Next video, how to change jets pls
Well considering I ended up getting the car running quite well without changing any of the jetting, and it’s stored away for the winter now, I won’t be getting to that video anytime soon. However, I will certainly make a point to prepare such a video whenever I have these carbs off next… maybe next spring? (I’ll try for that). Thanks for watching Mohd!
Aahhh great! What a luck! Sure I am now a fan, keep posting videos on vws I'll watch it 😁
@@mohdrhaiz8146 Haha, thank man, I appreciate it!
@@JMKGarage haha im getting this exact carb from my friendly neighbourhood vw friend. To be installed in my 1300. Your vids wil help me definately
What is a 1680?
1680cc… it’s as big as you can go without machining the block to accommodate larger jugs, or using a stroker crank.
Am I wrong ? think that vacuum is too low
I’m not sure what it “should” be at honestly. I suspect that it is lower than stock due to the 110 cam.
Well
I think the gauges that u have in front of u, they have some labels colored in red then in green meaning the status of the good vacuum for good idle
Another question where did u plug the vacuum I mean at the carb
@@emilianogarciagarcia6564 these carbs have a vacuum port on the left side, near the bottom. Once done testing, I put rubber vacuum caps on each of them.
@@JMKGarage I just bought one DUAL EPC 34
wish me luck
Dual carbs are pain in the ass. I've rather put a 1 weber carb.
Yeah, I’m learning that, although I’m up for the challenge, and working on two is easier than 4 (like on one of my bikes). I’ll definitely go for just one carb on the next build… much easier for installing the engine rather than having to take the carbs off to fit through the frame rails.
Please remove the fuel filter from the engine bay,thats a disaster waiting to happen
Already done… did that about two years a fox right after filming that video. Relocated it to under the gas tank.
MMMMMH! Whating several months while your carbs overfuel the engine, washing down the cyls.,thinning out the oil. well, its your nice little bug.
Curious to know what I’m doing wrong here, and what knowledge/advice you have to offer to help save me from ruining an engine… thanks