here is something about the plug that needs to be replaced so here goes: the O rings used by different manufacturers (I am thinking of the cheap knock offs) sometimes ..in my case I suffered the consequences.. come with different sizes, behavior, materials, what have you. In any case, I had done the replacement before and it all went by the numbers. But the last time I replaced the connector it wouldn't go in, I lubed the o rings, and still the connector didnt go in all the way, only after considerable effort it finally popped in. So, unbeknownst to me I managed to bend a pin on the inner connector! Disaster because you just cannot straighten out the bent pin it will break. And then you will be replacing the conductor plate. So, what I am saying is that buying the Febi materials maybe is the better way to go! Good luck!
Hey there. The parts quality these days,are preeeetttyyy poor..so it is even more important today,to do investigative work,before buying parts. When it comes to this particular Febi part,i bought this cause i knew from looking at pictures of this part..that it was the same part as Mercedes sells,when they sell their reconditioned units.Also, Febi is a reboxer..so often the parts that comes in Febi boxes..are actually genuine parts.How they end up at "Febi...i dont know ..but at least it has some level of quality to it. But thank you for commenting. Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Well...i dont know about that mister..but i apreaciate you commenting and liking the video.And if it helps people out..im happy as can be :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Excellent vid. Concise and clear. Good quality too. So many other vids dont do a good job of explaining or showing what exactly it is that they are doing. Yours is great.
Awesome video Just did this on my 2004 E55 AMG with also the 722.6 :) Couldn't find the torque specs for the little and large bolts but you said 4.5 and 8, thanks for that!
hello there. Thank you for kind words. Im glad you like the video...and yes...when i do make my videos..i do make sure to remember all the details that i feel and see is missing in other videos covering the same " subject". Greetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
6:40 if anyone forgets to put this back in after. the spring ratchet mechanism can bend down with little force to allow the yellow bit to turn into the slot.
Do you have to clear codes or update the computer in any way after doing all that/installing new valves, changing solenoids, new conductor plate? Or doing the adaption values procedure that you described at the end is sufficient?
Thank you soooo much for kind words :) That is awesome to hear.Unfortunatly not much videos about the E50 these days..but i am in the process of trying to make some more videos of some stuff i have done to the car.So stay tuned :) Greetings from Norway,Stefan
@@mozartcarclassics Ohhh..that is awesome. :) Yeah mate..i love them tooo..They are highly underrated cars i reckon.But they are slowly becoming more apreciated for the great Mercedes they are.Alongside alot of the other " typical" great Mercedes cars.I feel that the w210 is the last of the greats to be honest.Still much of the good ol build quality left in these.
will this procedure cure the non shifting to higher gear? Mine just went into limp mode which is at 2nd gear only and would not want to shift to higher gears!
Vielen Dank für diese Information, aber Sie haben uns beim Zerlegen des Anhängers nicht erklärt, wo sich der p.D.N.-Stick befindet. Ist es außerdem notwendig, den Anhänger nach dem Austausch zu programmieren?
Thanks for the educational video. Adaption concept doesn’t make sense to me. If I give the switch to my son to drive, how does the transmission know who is driving the car? How often the adaption change and when does it know to change its behavior?
Im glad you like it. Well , the adaption works in this way. It is a combination of the engine ecu and transmission ecu .These work together,and the pattern which the throttle pedal is used,,is the main variable to how the shifting occurs. If you use the throttle pedal more active...more full throttle etc etc...the ecu will notice this, and the gearshift will end up beein " quicker"....That is the easiest way i can explain it. So when you do a adaption reset, the main component that is " reset" , is the throttle body. Hope this explanation helps abit :)
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Hello. You will need to read codes, to see what going on. Both in engine ECU and transmission ecu. Also...was this fault symptom excactly the same after the replacement of parts,as it was before? if so, you need to double check your work. Also which components have you used...brand of parts i mean. It is obvious to me that the car is in limp mode as it does not rev past 3000 revs. Appart from that...i do not know which car you have..so my answer is based on a general basis. Best regards,STefan
On a 1998 Mercedes E320 would a bad TCM or conductor plate put the car in "Limp Home Mode" and would it also cause the "parking lock solenoid" from actuating"? The other problem is sometimes the engine will not turn over unless you hold the key to the start position for a while. I only have a cheap code scanner and it's not showing any codes. Would the speed sensor cause these problems and if so is the speed sensor part of the conductor plate? The car is a one owner with only 70K original miles, so IMO it's worth repairing. The problem is I'm not wealthy and these cars seem very expensive to fix. I'm not even sure the car is in Limp Home Mode or if it's some other problem causing it not to upshift. Thanks for any help.
Hello there.Your question is kinda vast.... Well.Here goes. First of all....you DO need to have the codes read.Both on engine and transmission. A cheap scanner does not work on these cars,as the w210 is quite picky on which diagnosis tool they accept.So faultcodes is key. Everything else will be quess work..and im afraid that does not get you anywere. So you need to get a faulcode readout done,so you can do further diagnoses with those faultcodes as a basepoint. Further, a bad conductor plate will make the car go into limp mode. It will not cause the parking solenoid not activating i think. The parking solenoid is indirectly controlled by the brakepedal switch. The speedsensors for the transmission is located as an integral part of the conductor plate yes. But to get to know what causes your car to go into limp mode,you need to read codes. I hope this helps. Best regards,sTefan
@@TheCarTakerGarage Thank you, I'll try to get to the local auto parts store so they can scan for transmission codes. Lets hope it's not something that will break the bank. :)
Good job on the maintenance, however very big doubts regarding shifting adaptation "reset" without using diagnostic equipment. Tests have been done multiple times where you go into adaptations, check values, then do this "reset", then connect the diagnostic again and all the adaptation data is still there without change. So the only proper way to reset it is use of diagnostic equipment that has that capability.
The only thing that I can see this test doing is maaaaybe resetting your throttle valve stops. As reset procedure on older models was just have the ignition on for long time and listen to throttle valve click when it does full travel. And thats a big maybe also.
@@CrazyTheCrip Thank you.You are definetly right about the stuff you are talking about.I am fully aware of it..as i have worked at the MB dealership for many years..and done countless "adaption resets".The "real" adaption reset is a completely different story as you point out.And I should have explained this quick reset abit better..and i know there is alot of "talk" about it "working or not.".But i remember reading some tech info about this when i worked at the dealer.It definetly does something to the shift quality doing this quick reset.When i got the car,it had been sitting for 6 years..low on battery,,and just started and driven a couple of times..so it had some weird shifts here and there..and i did the quick reset shown here..and after that, it started to shift like it should.But the specifics i am not sure about..and you may be right with it beeing the throttle body stuff doing its thing.But also not just i reckon...if i recall correctly,,,it has something to do with the shift quality memory beeing zeroed out...but anyways...i apreaciate your feedback :) Greetings,Stefan
Thank you so much.The broken spring ,is just something that happens in the earlier boxes.So it should not be needed in any later boxes than what the bag says.Greetings,Stefan
I had a complete transmission failure 07 Mercedes W211 E-Class 722.6. No engagement or movement in forward or reverse. I drained the fluid, removed just the valve body and installed the transgo kit and sonnax overlap sleeves and tcc damper valve upgrade parts as well as a new transmission filter. The car is driving now but something felt a bit weird, so I checked the torque converter live data stream on my scan tool and I am seeing it go from status "open" to "open + slipping" or just "slipping" as it shifts through the gears. Does this indicate a torque converter failure? I'm trying to do a DIY analysis so I was wondering should it read "open" then either "closed" or "locked"? I don't know if you ever observed the torque converter live data stream on your scan tool. Also in attempting to find the correct replacement torque converter part number i'm seeing these 3 different types./ A 211 250 09 02 / A 211 250 12 02 / A 221 250 20 02 I was wondering if you can help me narrow it down to the correct one.(see engine and transmission info below) M - Engine: 271956 30 844344 271.956 M271 KE18 ML R4 GASOLINE ENGINE M271 KE18 ML REPOGA - Automatic transmission: 722695 06 706128 722.695 W 5 A 330 AUTOMATIC FIVE-SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH CONVERTER
My W204 220 CDI with the 722.6 gearbox is shifting like shit, sometimes it even locks it self so i have to turn of the engine and restart it to get the gearbox to work again, it shifts hard and sometimes it dont know what gear to put in.. i have changed the oil and filter but the problem is still present. Can it be the conductor plate that is the problem or what step should i do next.. its a really nice car and i just want it to work good.. Greetings from Sweden.. :D
Hello thank you for this video. I have recently service my E430 as the gearbox started to play up and lost drive when getting hot or after a couple minutes of running, After I done a service (just oil and oil filter) it worked faultlessly for about 250 miles But then it's starred playing up again. Each time when I've dropped the oil I have found metal shavings in the oil And wonder if it's the centre bearing what you have been talking about in this video. Can you guide me on how to find out if the centre bearing his worn out. I've currently got the conductor plate out and have felt the centre bearing and there is a bit of play.
Hey there It is hard to say,but there should not be a signifikant amount of metal shavings.powdery mush is fine, but shiny particles of bigger size is not good. Are they bronze color ? Also if you just replaced oil,,and now 250miles later still residue,not a good sign. If there is signifikant movement on the speed sensor sensor wheel,,it is not a good sign either. On my car there is movemente,but not very much,and I have got no faults either...
I really liked your video, super detailed. I'm hoping you can help me. The following is copy of my post on another youtube channels I saw you post on. It's of a problem I'm having with my trans. Here's the copy: "Can you or anyone on this page tell me what would cause the transmission to shift but not engage. The live data scan shows all the shifter locations are recognized but the trans does not engage. I have a Autel scanner with the 38 MB adapter which can rest the trans, a icarsoft scanner that also can reset some tans functions and has live data, the conductor plate and filter has been replaced and ran fine for months. I also checked the brake light switch, wheel speed sensors, and any oil leaks from the tans going to the electrical box. I will follow your steps in checking the solenoids but they were checked and ok when I replaced the conductor plate. I have a 98 Mercedes SL. Any suggestions that you or anyone on the page would be greatly appreciated. Thanks"
Hey there.It is not easy to understand completly what you are asking..but one of the important things that comes to mind..is the inside shift fork...the plastic tab i talk about at 11min 5 seconds. Other than that,if the transmission is NOT engaging.,.i would think it is a mechanical fault still....all depending on fault codes.?did you ever sort this out...?Greetings,Stefan
When I shift from park to drive or from neutral to drive, I can hear a very faint « tchooo, tchoooo » … any ideas? I’m serious it realy makes that weird noise 😬
Hello Sir, I have a w203 2002 and it kicks when shifting from 1 to 2 but not from 4 to 5 (the same solenoid shifts 1-2 and 4-5) What do you think is the problem. Thank you for the video, keep up the good work
unfortunatly i cannot.I bought it of of a place in Germany i reckon.I cannot remember which dealer..but the partsnumber is in the video...so it should be easy enough finding one.Just make sure to get a Febi Bilstein one..and you will get the same part as Mercedes Benz sells..as their " refurbished" part ;)
Hi, my w203 doesn’t downshift when I try to accelerate. After reset the adoption values works fine, but for less than an hour and again same problem - everything works fine only when I try to pass some car and press the gas pedal doesn’t accelerate. What it can be?
Great video, I am trying a conductor plate this weekend on my Son's 2003 E320. Question, how do I know exactly how much fluid should go in without a dipstick, the locking cap has been removed so I am not sure if what comes out and what i replace is correct? I am not doing a complete flush I will do that once it actually shifts out of limp. Plus I was in Trondheim back in 2018 beautiful area but the beer was so expensive lol. Take care and thanks again
@@roncarswell8472 thank you so much.Well is it a w211?.there is approx 6 litres inside the transmission..so if you only got to drain out 1.3 liter out of the pan...that is not a good thing.that means it is missing about 2-3 litres in there.There is really no way of doing this correctly without a workshop dipstick ,and a diagnostic tool.But as a rule of thumb...when draining oil pan,and converter, you should fill between 5.5 -6 litres back into the transmission.Usually 5.8 litres.I hope that helps...but again..it really cannot be done properly without the dipstick and diagnostic tool.Oh...yeah...the beer is and has always been expensive here.Like basically everything in norway is expensive.hehe .Greetings,Stefan
@@TheCarTakerGarage back story, the car was sitting for 6 years with a transmission problem, it never got out of Limp bought it for 1000 for my Son's first car. I followed your instructions and of course I over torqued the 7mm bold on the plug, I heard a slight crack noise and the bolt backed off to be loose. The connector seems very tight so I re connected the outer plug and added 4 L of oil. I am hoping it clears the fault and shifts properly for a bit, and if I broke the connector plate while installing, at least I know the problem, whole kit costs 135 US on rocauto. I did notice a solenoid that seemed out of sorts, A140 277 05 35 and beside it was A240 277 00 00 they both were in tolerance for resistance, I know the 35's are interchangeable hoping the 00 is not the issue or is the issue then I know my problem lol.
hey.I am not sure where you should buy it.It all depends on your location.But most people can find what they are looking for on Ebay.?I would reccomend Febi Bilstein "s conductor plate kit.Then you get the same part as Mercedes sells as their "rebuilt" part.Like i show you in the video.Good luck :)
Nothing wrong with the fluid beeing a little cloudy.But It should not be white"ish /cloudy /white foamy/pinkish....then you have water in the oil.Which is NOT good.
Dear Sir., other problem with this car I'm not have the TCM Control Module Diagram and the M/Benz not sale Diagram's., if some one can send me a photocopy for check plug and fuses I appreciate very, very much., Thank you from Australia.
Hey there .thank you so much 🙂i hope you liked it.and yes,it takes a veeeery long time to make the videos, and even for me who is not doing the videoes super well,,it takes a long time. It took maybe 6 hours to 8 hours to do a job that takes maybe 2 hours,and I used a couple of days to edit. So ,but I am glad if the videos can help out 🙂greetings, Stefan
Tried to buy one of these from Mercedes main dealer was informed that I could not do replacement myself because the part came with a computer CODE that only Mercedes them selfs or approved Mercedes car repairers would receive to apply when new part installed ?. Any one had the same crap from Mercedes.
It is not true that the conductor plate on the 722.6 needs to be programmed.The 722.9 on the other hand,needs to be,if more stuff is replaced inside.Then you need to reset the adaptions..and you need to run a " reset driving cycle".
Not really.-Maybe abit..as i tried to say in the video..was that it is mostly a preventative maintenance measure....What i did notice though..is a huge change in shift quality when i replaced the throttle body....in the " diagnostic faultfinding video".But all in all...replacing the valves and stuff inside the valvebody did " help" also"...it feels " a tad" less " slippy" now...but it has always been a good shifting gearbox.The most important thing is to replace oil and filter " more" than " the service sheets" says.It is cheaper to replace oil and filter..than a gearbox :)
I see you have the wrong steering wheel in the E50. If you are interested I have a original one for you. It only has to get refurbished. Greetings from holland.
hey there mister.The steering wheel in the car is the steering wheel the car came with.But i am not sure "how" they came ..if my steering wheel was an option...or if they came with these...but the datacard states it came with this steering wheel..But..i have a different one in the car at this point in time...ive got hold of the "SLK" AMG steering wheel ..But to be honest..i am debating putting the Avantgarde steering wheel back in..as i kinda enjoyed the feeling of that steering wheel more than the "Slk Amg" one..:) Thank you for commenting by the way..Are you on facebook?i would like to see the steering wheel you have though.
Then you have done something wrong.Cause nothing in the video will make you do anything wrong..nor is it a step by step how to video either.So good luck,i hope you will fix it.Greetings
here is something about the plug that needs to be replaced so here goes: the O rings used by different manufacturers (I am thinking of the cheap knock offs) sometimes ..in my case I suffered the consequences.. come with different sizes, behavior, materials, what have you. In any case, I had done the replacement before and it all went by the numbers. But the last time I replaced the connector it wouldn't go in, I lubed the o rings, and still the connector didnt go in all the way, only after considerable effort it finally popped in. So, unbeknownst to me I managed to bend a pin on the inner connector! Disaster because you just cannot straighten out the bent pin it will break. And then you will be replacing the conductor plate. So, what I am saying is that buying the Febi materials maybe is the better way to go! Good luck!
Hey there. The parts quality these days,are preeeetttyyy poor..so it is even more important today,to do investigative work,before buying parts. When it comes to this particular Febi part,i bought this cause i knew from looking at pictures of this part..that it was the same part as Mercedes sells,when they sell their reconditioned units.Also, Febi is a reboxer..so often the parts that comes in Febi boxes..are actually genuine parts.How they end up at "Febi...i dont know ..but at least it has some level of quality to it. But thank you for commenting. Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
BEST - 722.6 video on the planet.
Well...i dont know about that mister..but i apreaciate you commenting and liking the video.And if it helps people out..im happy as can be :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Excellent vid. Concise and clear. Good quality too.
So many other vids dont do a good job of explaining or showing what exactly it is that they are doing. Yours is great.
Thank you so much.That is much apreaciated .and i hope it could help you out also :) Greetings,Stefan
Awesome video Just did this on my 2004 E55 AMG with also the 722.6 :) Couldn't find the torque specs for the little and large bolts but you said 4.5 and 8, thanks for that!
Thank you so much for kind words :) Im glad it could help out :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Thank you for this video and especially for not forgetting to indicate the tightening torques
William from France😉
hello there. Thank you for kind words. Im glad you like the video...and yes...when i do make my videos..i do make sure to remember all the details that i feel and see is missing in other videos covering the same " subject". Greetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
6:40 if anyone forgets to put this back in after. the spring ratchet mechanism can bend down with little force to allow the yellow bit to turn into the slot.
Really good video mate, well done. Thank you very much.
_Hey there. Thank you so much,,and im glad you liked it :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
Do you have to clear codes or update the computer in any way after doing all that/installing new valves, changing solenoids, new conductor plate? Or doing the adaption values procedure that you described at the end is sufficient?
good question. I want to do the same job.
Very much appreciate your channel and the work on your E50!
Thank you soooo much for kind words :) That is awesome to hear.Unfortunatly not much videos about the E50 these days..but i am in the process of trying to make some more videos of some stuff i have done to the car.So stay tuned :) Greetings from Norway,Stefan
@@TheCarTakerGarage we have an E420 W210 we‘re restoring, maybe upgrading engine to 6 liters. Love these cars!
@@mozartcarclassics Ohhh..that is awesome. :) Yeah mate..i love them tooo..They are highly underrated cars i reckon.But they are slowly becoming more apreciated for the great Mercedes they are.Alongside alot of the other " typical" great Mercedes cars.I feel that the w210 is the last of the greats to be honest.Still much of the good ol build quality left in these.
Very good video.
Thank you so much.Im glad you liked it.Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Sweeet! Thank you i need to do this very soon on my e55
thank you so much.And you are welcome :) Greetings ,Stefan
Super bra! Bra visat/förklarat!
Tusen tack for det :)
Very Informative
Great video!
Thank you so much for kind words.Im glad you liked it :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan :)
Very Helpful ..
Thanks
I really love your video, very well done!
Thank you sooo much for kind words.I am glad you like it.Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
will this procedure cure the non shifting to higher gear? Mine just went into limp mode which is at 2nd gear only and would not want to shift to higher gears!
Keep up the good work brother!.
Thank you so much mister :) I will :)
Thanks You míster, God bless You
Vielen Dank für diese Information, aber Sie haben uns beim Zerlegen des Anhängers nicht erklärt, wo sich der p.D.N.-Stick befindet. Ist es außerdem notwendig, den Anhänger nach dem Austausch zu programmieren?
Thanks for the educational video.
Adaption concept doesn’t make sense to me.
If I give the switch to my son to drive, how does the transmission know who is driving the car?
How often the adaption change and when does it know to change its behavior?
Im glad you like it. Well , the adaption works in this way. It is a combination of the engine ecu and transmission ecu .These work together,and the pattern which the throttle pedal is used,,is the main variable to how the shifting occurs. If you use the throttle pedal more active...more full throttle etc etc...the ecu will notice this, and the gearshift will end up beein " quicker"....That is the easiest way i can explain it. So when you do a adaption reset, the main component that is " reset" , is the throttle body. Hope this explanation helps abit :)
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Hello. You will need to read codes, to see what going on. Both in engine ECU and transmission ecu. Also...was this fault symptom excactly the same after the replacement of parts,as it was before? if so, you need to double check your work. Also which components have you used...brand of parts i mean. It is obvious to me that the car is in limp mode as it does not rev past 3000 revs. Appart from that...i do not know which car you have..so my answer is based on a general basis. Best regards,STefan
On a 1998 Mercedes E320 would a bad TCM or conductor plate put the car in "Limp Home Mode" and would it also cause the "parking lock solenoid" from actuating"? The other problem is sometimes the engine will not turn over unless you hold the key to the start position for a while. I only have a cheap code scanner and it's not showing any codes. Would the speed sensor cause these problems and if so is the speed sensor part of the conductor plate? The car is a one owner with only 70K original miles, so IMO it's worth repairing. The problem is I'm not wealthy and these cars seem very expensive to fix. I'm not even sure the car is in Limp Home Mode or if it's some other problem causing it not to upshift. Thanks for any help.
Hello there.Your question is kinda vast.... Well.Here goes. First of all....you DO need to have the codes read.Both on engine and transmission. A cheap scanner does not work on these cars,as the w210 is quite picky on which diagnosis tool they accept.So faultcodes is key. Everything else will be quess work..and im afraid that does not get you anywere. So you need to get a faulcode readout done,so you can do further diagnoses with those faultcodes as a basepoint. Further, a bad conductor plate will make the car go into limp mode. It will not cause the parking solenoid not activating i think. The parking solenoid is indirectly controlled by the brakepedal switch. The speedsensors for the transmission is located as an integral part of the conductor plate yes. But to get to know what causes your car to go into limp mode,you need to read codes. I hope this helps. Best regards,sTefan
@@TheCarTakerGarage Thank you, I'll try to get to the local auto parts store so they can scan for transmission codes. Lets hope it's not something that will break the bank. :)
Hello, what gear should I put in (N or P) when removing the gearbox controller? Does it matter?
Please tell me how to reset the Transmission ....the throttle pedal thing is to RELEARN" but how to reset the TMU????
In the kit I have it has lots of small 'o' rings, where do these fit? Thanks
I dont know..you will need to read the instructions of your specific kit
Does the conductor plate kit come with new o-rings and screens for some of the solenoids ?
no
well explained how to video, tks
Thank you so much for kind comment :) Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
Good job on the maintenance, however very big doubts regarding shifting adaptation "reset" without using diagnostic equipment. Tests have been done multiple times where you go into adaptations, check values, then do this "reset", then connect the diagnostic again and all the adaptation data is still there without change. So the only proper way to reset it is use of diagnostic equipment that has that capability.
The only thing that I can see this test doing is maaaaybe resetting your throttle valve stops. As reset procedure on older models was just have the ignition on for long time and listen to throttle valve click when it does full travel. And thats a big maybe also.
@@CrazyTheCrip Thank you.You are definetly right about the stuff you are talking about.I am fully aware of it..as i have worked at the MB dealership for many years..and done countless "adaption resets".The "real" adaption reset is a completely different story as you point out.And I should have explained this quick reset abit better..and i know there is alot of "talk" about it "working or not.".But i remember reading some tech info about this when i worked at the dealer.It definetly does something to the shift quality doing this quick reset.When i got the car,it had been sitting for 6 years..low on battery,,and just started and driven a couple of times..so it had some weird shifts here and there..and i did the quick reset shown here..and after that, it started to shift like it should.But the specifics i am not sure about..and you may be right with it beeing the throttle body stuff doing its thing.But also not just i reckon...if i recall correctly,,,it has something to do with the shift quality memory beeing zeroed out...but anyways...i apreaciate your feedback :)
Greetings,Stefan
Excellent video! Q - The Pres Reg Spring package says 99-earlier - do the newer 722.6's need this spring replaced? Have a 06 E350AWD. Thx
Thank you so much.The broken spring ,is just something that happens in the earlier boxes.So it should not be needed in any later boxes than what the bag says.Greetings,Stefan
I had a complete transmission failure 07 Mercedes W211 E-Class 722.6. No engagement or movement in forward or reverse. I drained the fluid, removed just the valve body and installed the transgo kit and sonnax overlap sleeves and tcc damper valve upgrade parts as well as a new transmission filter. The car is driving now but something felt a bit weird, so I checked the torque converter live data stream on my scan tool and I am seeing it go from status "open" to "open + slipping" or just "slipping" as it shifts through the gears. Does this indicate a torque converter failure? I'm trying to do a DIY analysis so I was wondering should it read "open" then either "closed" or "locked"? I don't know if you ever observed the torque converter live data stream on your scan tool. Also in attempting to find the correct replacement torque converter part number i'm seeing these 3 different types./ A 211 250 09 02 / A 211 250 12 02 / A 221 250 20 02 I was wondering if you can help me narrow it down to the correct one.(see engine and transmission info below)
M - Engine: 271956 30 844344 271.956 M271 KE18 ML R4 GASOLINE ENGINE M271 KE18 ML REPOGA - Automatic transmission: 722695 06 706128 722.695 W 5 A 330 AUTOMATIC FIVE-SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH CONVERTER
What scan tool are you using? And I just read at Merc Source that the OEM plate is no longer made. does that brick my C240 2004 I wonder.
My W204 220 CDI with the 722.6 gearbox is shifting like shit, sometimes it even locks it self so i have to turn of the engine and restart it to get the gearbox to work again, it shifts hard and sometimes it dont know what gear to put in.. i have changed the oil and filter but the problem is still present. Can it be the conductor plate that is the problem or what step should i do next.. its a really nice car and i just want it to work good.. Greetings from Sweden.. :D
Hello thank you for this video. I have recently service my E430 as the gearbox started to play up and lost drive when getting hot or after a couple minutes of running, After I done a service (just oil and oil filter) it worked faultlessly for about 250 miles But then it's starred playing up again. Each time when I've dropped the oil I have found metal shavings in the oil And wonder if it's the centre bearing what you have been talking about in this video. Can you guide me on how to find out if the centre bearing his worn out. I've currently got the conductor plate out and have felt the centre bearing and there is a bit of play.
Hey there
It is hard to say,but there should not be a signifikant amount of metal shavings.powdery mush is fine, but shiny particles of bigger size is not good. Are they bronze color ? Also if you just replaced oil,,and now 250miles later still residue,not a good sign. If there is signifikant movement on the speed sensor sensor wheel,,it is not a good sign either. On my car there is movemente,but not very much,and I have got no faults either...
I really liked your video, super detailed. I'm hoping you can help me. The following is copy of my post on another youtube channels I saw you post on. It's of a problem I'm having with my trans. Here's the copy: "Can you or anyone on this page tell me what would cause the transmission to shift but not engage. The live data scan shows all the shifter locations are recognized but the trans does not engage. I have a Autel scanner with the 38 MB adapter which can rest the trans, a icarsoft scanner that also can reset some tans functions and has live data, the conductor plate and filter has been replaced and ran fine for months. I also checked the brake light switch, wheel speed sensors, and any oil leaks from the tans going to the electrical box. I will follow your steps in checking the solenoids but they were checked and ok when I replaced the conductor plate. I have a 98 Mercedes SL. Any suggestions that you or anyone on the page would be greatly appreciated. Thanks"
Hey there.It is not easy to understand completly what you are asking..but one of the important things that comes to mind..is the inside shift fork...the plastic tab i talk about at 11min 5 seconds. Other than that,if the transmission is NOT engaging.,.i would think it is a mechanical fault still....all depending on fault codes.?did you ever sort this out...?Greetings,Stefan
When I shift from park to drive or from neutral to drive, I can hear a very faint « tchooo, tchoooo » … any ideas? I’m serious it realy makes that weird noise 😬
Hello Sir, I have a w203 2002 and it kicks when shifting from 1 to 2 but not from 4 to 5 (the same solenoid shifts 1-2 and 4-5)
What do you think is the problem.
Thank you for the video, keep up the good work
Think it's the F1 free wheeling unit.
Many thanks sir
Could you please share the conductor plate link from where you bought
unfortunatly i cannot.I bought it of of a place in Germany i reckon.I cannot remember which dealer..but the partsnumber is in the video...so it should be easy enough finding one.Just make sure to get a Febi Bilstein one..and you will get the same part as Mercedes Benz sells..as their " refurbished" part ;)
Hi, my w203 doesn’t downshift when I try to accelerate. After reset the adoption values works fine, but for less than an hour and again same problem - everything works fine only when I try to pass some car and press the gas pedal doesn’t accelerate. What it can be?
My w203 gearbox doesn't shift properly with it gets cold only when it hot for a bit
Stimmt es, dass nach dem Austausch des Sensors eine Programmierung erforderlich ist?
No.On the 722.6 You dont need to reprogramme anything. :)
@@TheCarTakerGarage Danke
@@nourajanji5475 Keine problem :)
@@TheCarTakerGarage Dank
Great video, I am trying a conductor plate this weekend on my Son's 2003 E320. Question, how do I know exactly how much fluid should go in without a dipstick, the locking cap has been removed so I am not sure if what comes out and what i replace is correct? I am not doing a complete flush I will do that once it actually shifts out of limp. Plus I was in Trondheim back in 2018 beautiful area but the beer was so expensive lol. Take care and thanks again
there was about 1.3 L drained and that includes the pan
@@roncarswell8472 thank you so much.Well is it a w211?.there is approx 6 litres inside the transmission..so if you only got to drain out 1.3 liter out of the pan...that is not a good thing.that means it is missing about 2-3 litres in there.There is really no way of doing this correctly without a workshop dipstick ,and a diagnostic tool.But as a rule of thumb...when draining oil pan,and converter, you should fill between 5.5 -6 litres back into the transmission.Usually 5.8 litres.I hope that helps...but again..it really cannot be done properly without the dipstick and diagnostic tool.Oh...yeah...the beer is and has always been expensive here.Like basically everything in norway is expensive.hehe .Greetings,Stefan
@@TheCarTakerGarage its a 210 and thanks,
Then everything i said applies 🙂
@@TheCarTakerGarage back story, the car was sitting for 6 years with a transmission problem, it never got out of Limp bought it for 1000 for my Son's first car. I followed your instructions and of course I over torqued the 7mm bold on the plug, I heard a slight crack noise and the bolt backed off to be loose. The connector seems very tight so I re connected the outer plug and added 4 L of oil. I am hoping it clears the fault and shifts properly for a bit, and if I broke the connector plate while installing, at least I know the problem, whole kit costs 135 US on rocauto. I did notice a solenoid that seemed out of sorts, A140 277 05 35 and beside it was A240 277 00 00 they both were in tolerance for resistance, I know the 35's are interchangeable hoping the 00 is not the issue or is the issue then I know my problem lol.
Hey big question, where do I order the conductor plate and the plug that connects to the conductor plate (not sure it's name)?
hey.I am not sure where you should buy it.It all depends on your location.But most people can find what they are looking for on Ebay.?I would reccomend Febi Bilstein "s conductor plate kit.Then you get the same part as Mercedes sells as their "rebuilt" part.Like i show you in the video.Good luck :)
@@TheCarTakerGarage Thank you!!
Nice video
Thank you very much :) Greetings from Norway ,stefan
Je moze da se zamene solenoidi da auto pomesa RI N..kad u R on je u neutral kad je u N od ide u rikverc
So do u need to program it after u put the conductor plate
No you do not need to program anything after replacing the conductor plate in the 722.6
I seen that my fluid was a little cloudy, but my Antifreeze was not low.
Nothing wrong with the fluid beeing a little cloudy.But It should not be white"ish /cloudy /white foamy/pinkish....then you have water in the oil.Which is NOT good.
Does it have e to be programmed?
No ,it doesnt
Could you please give us parts numbers / list?
Many thanks
Thank’s form Bangkok ,,,,,,,
Hey there.Thank you so much for watchin :)And im glad you liked it. Greetings from Norway ,Stefan
I,am very glad. You are welcome. Greetings from Thailand too. Lim,,
After replacing the conductor plate, the car is no longer shifting. it stays on 1st gear, with a code of P240C. What could cause that?
Reset ?
So what was the problem?
great
Dear Sir., other problem with this car I'm not have the TCM Control Module Diagram and the M/Benz not sale Diagram's., if some one can send me a photocopy for check plug and fuses I appreciate very, very much., Thank you from Australia.
Hi…..
Enjoyed video
But , I wonder how look it took in total to complete this job.
I guess 4 hrs ??????
Hey there .thank you so much 🙂i hope you liked it.and yes,it takes a veeeery long time to make the videos, and even for me who is not doing the videoes super well,,it takes a long time. It took maybe 6 hours to 8 hours to do a job that takes maybe 2 hours,and I used a couple of days to edit. So ,but I am glad if the videos can help out 🙂greetings, Stefan
If my car gets more hot than normal (in traffic) the transmission seems to feel .. weird but no slip.. kinda spongy
Tried to buy one of these from Mercedes main dealer was informed that I could not do replacement myself because the part came with a computer CODE that only Mercedes them selfs or approved Mercedes car repairers would receive to apply when new part installed ?. Any one had the same crap from Mercedes.
It is not true that the conductor plate on the 722.6 needs to be programmed.The 722.9 on the other hand,needs to be,if more stuff is replaced inside.Then you need to reset the adaptions..and you need to run a " reset driving cycle".
Did you notice much of a difference after doing these valve body mods?
Not really.-Maybe abit..as i tried to say in the video..was that it is mostly a preventative maintenance measure....What i did notice though..is a huge change in shift quality when i replaced the throttle body....in the " diagnostic faultfinding video".But all in all...replacing the valves and stuff inside the valvebody did " help" also"...it feels " a tad" less " slippy" now...but it has always been a good shifting gearbox.The most important thing is to replace oil and filter " more" than " the service sheets" says.It is cheaper to replace oil and filter..than a gearbox :)
I see you have the wrong steering wheel in the E50.
If you are interested I have a original one for you.
It only has to get refurbished.
Greetings from holland.
hey there mister.The steering wheel in the car is the steering wheel the car came with.But i am not sure "how" they came ..if my steering wheel was an option...or if they came with these...but the datacard states it came with this steering wheel..But..i have a different one in the car at this point in time...ive got hold of the "SLK" AMG steering wheel ..But to be honest..i am debating putting the Avantgarde steering wheel back in..as i kinda enjoyed the feeling of that steering wheel more than the "Slk Amg" one..:) Thank you for commenting by the way..Are you on facebook?i would like to see the steering wheel you have though.
@@TheCarTakerGarage yes i do.
I think i’am easy to find with this name 🤣
I followed your video and screwed up my car
Then you have done something wrong.Cause nothing in the video will make you do anything wrong..nor is it a step by step how to video either.So good luck,i hope you will fix it.Greetings
Traduire en français