I have a home shop also and have been researching lifts. You did a great job on the installation. Super clean and safe. Thanks for the video and information!
You did a top notch job on the installation , coming from working in repair shops , I always felt the in ground lift were better in general a a big space saver ...
7:25 Slow lowering is very safe, incase of any malfunction atleast you know the vehicle wont come falling down quickly, one can even may notice of its mal-functioning by ramp coming down noticeably.
Thanks for replying. My instructions show those plumbed separately, cylinder vent to only power unit vent. They think my flow divider is defective and are sending a new one. We'll see.
No le resta altura al elevador al sumergirlo en el concreto? A la hora de estar debajo del mismo los cm que se pierden al están en el piso del concreto me parecen imprescindibles, suerte con ese método.
Same here. Is the pads of concrete under the lift attached to the original concrete in any way or is it level with the bottom. If the top of the new concrete pad is level with the bottom of the original then there won't be much strength in the stability of the new pads.
Man this would be great! I wonder how it would handle salt and melting snow though. Not that it matters, I sure wont be able to justify something like this with the bit of repair work I do
I do not know for sure if my thinking is correct but would bet you that the hydraulic lines have major restriction on the fittings orifices and hard ninety degrees drilled boreholes that prevent quick lifting and quick lower. When you said that you need air pressure to lower jacks that made me question who in the engineering department actually did there homework on flow rates. Good day to you and hope you have fun with the jacks. VF
This model MDS 6LPF used gravity to return fluid to the pump reservoir. High pressure up through bottom of lift cylinder - then fluid exits out the top port ports through 1/4”OD tubing to reservoir.
Good question, haven't had that issue. I suppose if I were pressure washing my floor I'd use a wet vac. I do think these are made of black hole matter because nuts and bolts seem to gravitate to them, good thing is i know where to look when stuff gets dropped. I regularly blow it out with air to keep the dirt and debris out.
Bendpaks are ok for personal use, but if you’re constantly using it like a shop. Their support center sucks and takes weeks for a reply and/or parts. Spend a little more money for a challenger or rotary.
I've done a follow-up video but haven't posted it yet. Main complaint is that it's not body on frame friendly, unibody I haven't had an issue. Other problem was with how far apart I installed each side. I went with the maximum and really should have gone the minimum width. For body on frame I built cross members and adjustable pucks to line up with frame lifting points.
Thanks for the video. I have one of these lifts, slow retracting and (with no weight) usually stops at about 4 inches. You mention "air assist" in your video, did you plumb the vent lines to accept air from your compressor? How do you switch from air assist to vent to the power unit?
The same air that lifts the small lock out cylinders is plumbed to the top ports of the hydraulic cylinders. Not sure if they have revised the design but that's how it was laid out in my original instruction set.
@@xeontisBendpak was correct, new warranty flow divider installed and lift retracting. With no load applied the last 4.5 inches takes 30 seconds but it does retract.
Any grease fittings on this hoist at all pins and pivots? We have a busy shop and we bought 2 of the 7k lb versions and after five years they are pretty rough. Finish has not held up and we had to drill and install about 20 grease fittings on each hoist. Also we have had the air solenoids for the locks go bad and blew both of the original hydraulic lines. Just something to keep in mind if you live in a climate with salty drippy cars and the lifts get a lot of use.
@@JayDee-xj9lu my rubber pucks are generally more inboard rather than centered on the lift platform. Better weight distribution to have them centered. This is true for the vehicles in my fleet.
It is really good that the company did you right but it also seems that there was Zero testing to the functionality of the engineering that went into the lift and that would be concerning to me .
I installed car lifts for almost 20 years. It's normal for lifts to go down slow when there's little to no weight. After replacing a seal there was always a person or two sitting on the arms to make it go down faster and oftentimes air pockets will make them go down slower and if there's trash in the system. Not having Anchor bolts on that thing wouldn't be a big deal. With large base plates and the way the weight is distributed it wouldn't go anywhere. The only thing I don't like is that the locks aren't in sync. On cable and chain lifts they can be adjusted but there's not really a way to do it on that kind of lift that doesn't involve welding.
As for cutting concrete and filling in with more concrete what was the effort if you did it or the cost. The lift is already 5k but an install has to be expensive itself.
What is the distance between the ramps? I’ve seen literature that suffers 30” apart all the way to 42”. Great informative video. I’m between this lift and the Nussbaum jumbo 7000.
I have purchased the same lift and will be installing it in a 25 year old garage. I’ve seen various iterations of concrete for this type of lift with yours being the simplest. Others cut a much larger chasm and tie new concrete into the existing pad with rebar. How has your install held up? Any issues with settling or cracking of concrete?
Yes I was wondering about this too. When you cut the floor did you get down to the dirt and just pour a pad inside of the channels you cut or did you reinforce it some how?
@@xeontis thanks. Looking on bendpaks website those instructions show the 120v pump instructions. So between your reply and that im good to go now. All i have is one of the three options.....
I can sympathize with your lift being first. The revised model like I have has the new anchor locations. And the direction manuals still have old information as well. Does your lift have hydraulic return lines from the cylinders to the reservoir? Directions show this however bendpak says since it’s a power up power down pump all fluid leaves and returns to through same hose and distribution block.
Mine is air assist down, not sure if they are calling that power down. Single hydraulic line to bottom of each cylinder, air lines to the top. The down action is slow but it gives you plenty of time to react if something is in the way. The pump is single relay for the up stroke
Got mine all installed. Power up, gravity down. I return line for each cylinder fed into one main line, returning to the pump. Only issue is greasing the recessed grezerks on the x-members, probabaly need a smaller nozzle on my grease gun.
After re reading this. And listening to your video There shouldn’t be air assist down. Those fittings at the top of the cylinder are fluid returns. And the pump strain sounds different than mine. I wonder if when your pushing the lock release (only need 50psi) your forcing air into the cylinder and slowing its decent? The return fitting is on the side of the pump. As I look at my fill cap the port is on the left.
@@4961Studebaker That's interesting - I'm looking at the new install manual and it's definitely been modified from when I installed mine. I think I'll give that configuration a try - Thanks
xeontis - my manual was outdated as well. And atrocious in explaining which port was the fluid return. I’m confident you will see a difference in your decent speed. I’ve found as little as 40-50psi will lift the lock plate.
Thanks a lot for sharing this good stuff But I may need your help please How can I buy 7ft scissors lift please I need your help Thanks a lot hoping to hear from you
Thanks for the well presented video. It tells me I've made the right choice. I've got the same model but it's still on the pallet. Two questions if I may... 1. Is there a min / max distance between the power unit and the closest lift assembly given the hydraulic hoses included? 2. Are you concerned with water or other fluids collecting in the concrete cutouts?
Thanks, the supplied hoses are fairly short. There's no reason why you can't get or make longer ones. You'll have to extend the air supply line also. I've not had any issue with fluids collecting however nuts and bolts always seem to find their way down there. Have to be careful when retracting the tolerances are very tight, a small nut can cause it to stop traveling. If you're a clean worker it's not an issue.
@@markshobe912 I believe he means you tie the new concrete to the old concrete by drilling holes, about 2” or 3” maybe, into the old concrete where you will place the rebar.
Really great video thanks! How far is your lift from the wall at the side? Let's say the right side when looking into the garage. Are you happy with that amount of working space? I am going to get a lift for my little garage and this look perfect.
It has to have weight on it. once it gets to about 4" it will stop, probably due to the geometry of the scissor plus the air pressure doesn't apply enough force to overcome the "apex" . If your tall lifting blocks are too short then you may need to put some 2x10 blocks under to give it some extra height. as long as there is some weight right at that apex around 4" then it'll go down all the way. Once it's over that point no weight is needed, hasn't been an issue for me unless I extend them up empty. in that case I just threw a few bags of pellets on each side. probably a design flaw but like I said hasn't been an issue for me.
How deep is your garage How far from interior wall did you place your lift and remaining feet behind to the garage door? thanks. Wondering if my 25ft garage and 12 ft from wall to lift front leaves enough real world working space around a car and my 24” cabinets. Thanks
Garage is 32' long, I'm about 15' from the back wall and have 28" shelves. I've got tons of working room in front. I'd probably move the lift forward a couple feet if I were to do it again.
Sorry to keep asking questions. Do you happen to have a photo of all the mounting bolts. And their final location measurements. I assume there’s 4 total. I’m working with a builder now and would like to avoid any rebar getting in the way of the lag bolt locations BendPak sent me a foot print layout for the pads themselves. Not the bolt holes. Thanks if possible.
I did mine one at a time. You'll need access beneath the lift, I put mine on some car dollies. There's an access hole on the bottom just under the fitting that's just big enough to use a wrench in. Slide a hose in from the side and line up the fittings. Be sure it's propped up securely because you'll have your hands and arms under it. From the bottom you can get the fittings finger tight then tighten with a wrench.
Hi, thanks so much for this. You did an awesome job installing this, and also answered a bunch of questions I had about this lift. I have a few more questions: 1. Is it possible to use ONE of the platforms to lift something and leave the other unloaded? For instance, can I roll a loaded tool chest onto a platform and lift it up to pickup truck bed height? 2. Do you think a couple more blocks could be welded onto the bottom plates (by a master welder) to give maybe 5 locking height positions instead of 3? I haven't seen a good picture of the actual catch mechanism yet, but I'm disappointed by only 3 locked positions. 3. How far apart did you place your platforms? I am curious because the recommended inner span is 40 to 46", which is oddly different than the superseded mds-6k at 30-35" span, though the platforms of each model are the same width.
Hi and thanks, I've been pleased with the lift so far. To answer your questions, 1. It could be possible if you were to add an inline valve on one or both of the hydraulic lines. The flow divider is in the base of the control unit so you could add the valves there. Basically one line comes out of the pump into the divider which ... divides the flow to the 2 platforms. I don't know if it's a good idea to block off one side you would have to check into that. 2. I see no harm in adding additional locking block to the bottom, I've not needed any others than the highest and the lowest. I have a set of car dollies that my ass fits in perfect so I roll around under the car on that sitting completely upright. just don't roll into the lift well, it will startle you ever time. 3. I installed mine right at 40", a little closer would have been better 37" perhaps I did have a little letdown a couple weeks back. I bought a 04 TJ and the wheel base is actually too short to fit on the lift. nothing a couple of blocks couldn't solve
Great video! I think this convinced me to go this route instead of a two post lift that I have been considering for a long time.
Flush in the floor is awesome. I use a wheelchair and this system will work perfectly. Thank you for the video.
I have a home shop also and have been researching lifts. You did a great job on the installation. Super clean and safe. Thanks for the video and information!
You did a top notch job on the installation , coming from working in repair shops , I always felt the in ground lift were better in general a a big space saver ...
7:25 Slow lowering is very safe, incase of any malfunction atleast you know the vehicle wont come falling down quickly, one can even may notice of its mal-functioning by ramp coming down noticeably.
Awesome! Good video. Best part is the "fuck yeah" after the flex is in the air! Cheers!
Rob
thought i heard peter griffin for a second there.
Thanks for this, helped convince me this is what I wanted for my garage, good stuff!
Nice installation sir!
WOW....great idea and space saver..... MOPAR 4 EVER...!
how is it working now look to put one in my shop this summer. thank you for you time making the video.
Thanks for replying. My instructions show those plumbed separately, cylinder vent to only power unit vent. They think my flow divider is defective and are sending a new one. We'll see.
No le resta altura al elevador al sumergirlo en el concreto? A la hora de estar debajo del mismo los cm que se pierden al están en el piso del concreto me parecen imprescindibles, suerte con ese método.
This model was designed to be flush with the concrete. Also it's not a trip hazard.
Creo que se pierden como 11cm de altura aprox, al hacer este empotrado en el hormigón,
Excellent idea and wonderful execution.
I'd love to see more pictures of your concrete form up if you can please:) How you tied in the re-bar and so forth as I'm planning on doing the same.
Same here. Is the pads of concrete under the lift attached to the original concrete in any way or is it level with the bottom. If the top of the new concrete pad is level with the bottom of the original then there won't be much strength in the stability of the new pads.
Man this would be great! I wonder how it would handle salt and melting snow though. Not that it matters, I sure wont be able to justify something like this with the bit of repair work I do
Great video, details in description would really help, what’s the maximum height
Cool with the adjustable assembly table! I have the same issue in my garage. Wrenching and grease aren’t so compatible with lumber and sawdust.
I do not know for sure if my thinking is correct but would bet you that the hydraulic lines have major restriction on the fittings orifices and hard ninety degrees drilled boreholes that prevent quick lifting and quick lower. When you said that you need air pressure to lower jacks that made me question who in the engineering department actually did there homework on flow rates. Good day to you and hope you have fun with the jacks. VF
This model MDS 6LPF used gravity to return fluid to the pump reservoir. High pressure up through bottom of lift cylinder - then fluid exits out the top port ports through 1/4”OD tubing to reservoir.
@@4961Studebaker Got it Studebaker. VF
Thats a nice setup I'd be gluing them rubber things on the side of the car rails so you can just drive on and lift
Will this fit in a regular home garage?
I could see making a motorcycle table for that too .
How does it drain water if it gets in ?
Good question, haven't had that issue. I suppose if I were pressure washing my floor I'd use a wet vac. I do think these are made of black hole matter because nuts and bolts seem to gravitate to them, good thing is i know where to look when stuff gets dropped. I regularly blow it out with air to keep the dirt and debris out.
how much does it cost to get those thing as completely installed like yours
Bendpaks are ok for personal use, but if you’re constantly using it like a shop. Their support center sucks and takes weeks for a reply and/or parts. Spend a little more money for a challenger or rotary.
You have had it for four years now, any complaints? I'm trying to decide on this or a two post for my garage.
I've done a follow-up video but haven't posted it yet. Main complaint is that it's not body on frame friendly, unibody I haven't had an issue. Other problem was with how far apart I installed each side. I went with the maximum and really should have gone the minimum width. For body on frame I built cross members and adjustable pucks to line up with frame lifting points.
so the rebar is just the reinforcement at the bottom, but its not actually tied into the old concrete around it, right? or is it? if so where
It's pinned basically
@@xeontis as in vertical bars?
what if you have a car of a different size?
the one on the right looks flush to the floor but the left one is raised does water go down the sides if washing car nice lift
Thanks for the video. I have one of these lifts, slow retracting and (with no weight) usually stops at about 4 inches. You mention "air assist" in your video, did you plumb the vent lines to accept air from your compressor? How do you switch from air assist to vent to the power unit?
The same air that lifts the small lock out cylinders is plumbed to the top ports of the hydraulic cylinders. Not sure if they have revised the design but that's how it was laid out in my original instruction set.
@@xeontisBendpak was correct, new warranty flow divider installed and lift retracting. With no load applied the last 4.5 inches takes 30 seconds but it does retract.
I can’t wait till I can do my 5:43
This is what I need
..what was the cracking noise when the suv was being lifted?
That's cool at all but I I think you could have fit a two post in there no problem.
nice lift and where it fits in the ground but seems slow up & down
Any grease fittings on this hoist at all pins and pivots? We have a busy shop and we bought 2 of the 7k lb versions and after five years they are pretty rough. Finish has not held up and we had to drill and install about 20 grease fittings on each hoist. Also we have had the air solenoids for the locks go bad and blew both of the original hydraulic lines. Just something to keep in mind if you live in a climate with salty drippy cars and the lifts get a lot of use.
Yep has grease fittings from the factory. this being in a residential garage I expect the lift to last quite a while.
What is the distance between the 2 platforms. I have just bought a lift and it's seems narrower?
Mine are 41" apart. If I were to do it again I'd go s little narrower. Maybe 38
@@xeontisWhy is that?
@@JayDee-xj9lu my rubber pucks are generally more inboard rather than centered on the lift platform. Better weight distribution to have them centered. This is true for the vehicles in my fleet.
It is really good that the company did you right but it also seems that there was Zero testing to the functionality of the engineering that went into the lift and that would be concerning to me .
How tall is your ceiling
I installed car lifts for almost 20 years. It's normal for lifts to go down slow when there's little to no weight. After replacing a seal there was always a person or two sitting on the arms to make it go down faster and oftentimes air pockets will make them go down slower and if there's trash in the system. Not having Anchor bolts on that thing wouldn't be a big deal. With large base plates and the way the weight is distributed it wouldn't go anywhere. The only thing I don't like is that the locks aren't in sync. On cable and chain lifts they can be adjusted but there's not really a way to do it on that kind of lift that doesn't involve welding.
Agree with all that. The lock sync isn't that big of a deal. Once you hear the second one, just go down so they are both locked in.
Can you put a car on the lift in either direction? I would like the control unit and hydraulic line facing to what would be the automotive rear.
Yes, either direction works.
I want to install something like this in my detail shop and maybe I'm my garage
thank you so much for the tutorial , i was wondering how you install this !
I think this lift would best fit my garage are you still happy with it?
Yes, completely happy with it. Comes in handy for more than just a lift.
As for cutting concrete and filling in with more concrete what was the effort if you did it or the cost. The lift is already 5k but an install has to be expensive itself.
What is the distance between the ramps? I’ve seen literature that suffers 30” apart all the way to 42”. Great informative video. I’m between this lift and the Nussbaum jumbo 7000.
41 inches, seems to accommodate everything I've put on it so far.
I have purchased the same lift and will be installing it in a 25 year old garage. I’ve seen various iterations of concrete for this type of lift with yours being the simplest. Others cut a much larger chasm and tie new concrete into the existing pad with rebar. How has your install held up? Any issues with settling or cracking of concrete?
No issues at all, I check it out a couple times a year and its all on the same position as day 1.
Yes I was wondering about this too. When you cut the floor did you get down to the dirt and just pour a pad inside of the channels you cut or did you reinforce it some how?
Great tool!
Your outlet... is that 220v? I have mine im working on right now but the nameplate on the motor says 110v yet the instructions say 220v......
It's 120
@@xeontis thanks. Looking on bendpaks website those instructions show the 120v pump instructions. So between your reply and that im good to go now. All i have is one of the three options.....
I can sympathize with your lift being first. The revised model like I have has the new anchor locations. And the direction manuals still have old information as well. Does your lift have hydraulic return lines from the cylinders to the reservoir? Directions show this however bendpak says since it’s a power up power down pump all fluid leaves and returns to through same hose and distribution block.
Mine is air assist down, not sure if they are calling that power down. Single hydraulic line to bottom of each cylinder, air lines to the top. The down action is slow but it gives you plenty of time to react if something is in the way. The pump is single relay for the up stroke
Got mine all installed. Power up, gravity down. I return line for each cylinder fed into one main line, returning to the pump.
Only issue is greasing the recessed grezerks on the x-members, probabaly need a smaller nozzle on my grease gun.
After re reading this. And listening to your video There shouldn’t be air assist down. Those fittings at the top of the cylinder are fluid returns. And the pump strain sounds different than mine. I wonder if when your pushing the lock release (only need 50psi) your forcing air into the cylinder and slowing its decent? The return fitting is on the side of the pump. As I look at my fill cap the port is on the left.
@@4961Studebaker That's interesting - I'm looking at the new install manual and it's definitely been modified from when I installed mine. I think I'll give that configuration a try - Thanks
xeontis - my manual was outdated as well. And atrocious in explaining which port was the fluid return. I’m confident you will see a difference in your decent speed. I’ve found as little as 40-50psi will lift the lock plate.
Thanks a lot for sharing this good stuff
But I may need your help please
How can I buy 7ft scissors lift please I need your help
Thanks a lot hoping to hear from you
So it sounds like their engineering never did a test install of their product before selling it.
completely agree
Thanks for the well presented video. It tells me I've made the right choice. I've got the same model but it's still on the pallet. Two questions if I may... 1. Is there a min / max distance between the power unit and the closest lift assembly given the hydraulic hoses included? 2. Are you concerned with water or other fluids collecting in the concrete cutouts?
Thanks, the supplied hoses are fairly short. There's no reason why you can't get or make longer ones. You'll have to extend the air supply line also. I've not had any issue with fluids collecting however nuts and bolts always seem to find their way down there. Have to be careful when retracting the tolerances are very tight, a small nut can cause it to stop traveling. If you're a clean worker it's not an issue.
BendPak fing up, no???
How much concrete should I pour on the base where the lift rests?
I put about 4 inches of concrete and pinned it all in with rebar.
Can you elaborate on the “pinning it in” part? Thank you! Super clean install and great video!!
@@markshobe912 I believe he means you tie the new concrete to the old concrete by drilling holes, about 2” or 3” maybe, into the old concrete where you will place the rebar.
i need that in my life.... does that lift the car straight up and down or does it drift forward and back as it goes up and down?
straight up and down
@@xeontis yeah....i need that in my life. i work on cars way to much at my age to be on jackstands and cardboard😄😄
Really great video thanks! How far is your lift from the wall at the side? Let's say the right side when looking into the garage. Are you happy with that amount of working space? I am going to get a lift for my little garage and this look perfect.
Hey Zen, it's about 3 ft or so. I really haven't had any issues with being that close to the wall.
What is the type of these lifts? I would like to see if there are any alternative brands. Thanks!
How did you get the lift to lower with no weight/vehicle on it?
It has to have weight on it. once it gets to about 4" it will stop, probably due to the geometry of the scissor plus the air pressure doesn't apply enough force to overcome the "apex" . If your tall lifting blocks are too short then you may need to put some 2x10 blocks under to give it some extra height. as long as there is some weight right at that apex around 4" then it'll go down all the way. Once it's over that point no weight is needed, hasn't been an issue for me unless I extend them up empty. in that case I just threw a few bags of pellets on each side. probably a design flaw but like I said hasn't been an issue for me.
How high is your ceiling from your floor?
10 ft
@@xeontis cool. Is the lift a mid-rise lift?
@@jpearson311 yes
@@xeontis ok. I'm looking at getting one and your garage looks about the same size as mine. Thanks for answering my questions!
Looks awesome. Have you had any issues with the lift?
are you able to lower a loaded subframe with engine and transmission still attached without any obstruction?
I did with an Audi TT, fairly small car.
That is amazing you did a very good job
How deep is your garage
How far from interior wall did you place your lift and remaining feet behind to the garage door? thanks.
Wondering if my 25ft garage and 12 ft from wall to lift front leaves enough real world working space around a car and my 24” cabinets. Thanks
Garage is 32' long, I'm about 15' from the back wall and have 28" shelves. I've got tons of working room in front. I'd probably move the lift forward a couple feet if I were to do it again.
Oh man you have plenty of room. Appreciate the reply.
Sorry to keep asking questions. Do you happen to have a photo of all the mounting bolts. And their final location measurements. I assume there’s 4 total. I’m working with a builder now and would like to avoid any rebar getting in the way of the lag bolt locations
BendPak sent me a foot print layout for the pads themselves. Not the bolt holes.
Thanks if possible.
@@4961Studebaker not sure if you still need it. I checked and no longer have the diagram.
Garage floor poured. For this lift, 2 months out from getting it installed.
I just bought this surface mount version of this lift. How to you extend the scissors to hook up the hydraulic lines?
I did mine one at a time. You'll need access beneath the lift, I put mine on some car dollies. There's an access hole on the bottom just under the fitting that's just big enough to use a wrench in. Slide a hose in from the side and line up the fittings. Be sure it's propped up securely because you'll have your hands and arms under it. From the bottom you can get the fittings finger tight then tighten with a wrench.
Hi, thanks so much for this. You did an awesome job installing this, and also answered a bunch of questions I had about this lift. I have a few more questions:
1. Is it possible to use ONE of the platforms to lift something and leave the other unloaded? For instance, can I roll a loaded tool chest onto a platform and lift it up to pickup truck bed height?
2. Do you think a couple more blocks could be welded onto the bottom plates (by a master welder) to give maybe 5 locking height positions instead of 3? I haven't seen a good picture of the actual catch mechanism yet, but I'm disappointed by only 3 locked positions.
3. How far apart did you place your platforms? I am curious because the recommended inner span is 40 to 46", which is oddly different than the superseded mds-6k at 30-35" span, though the platforms of each model are the same width.
Hi and thanks, I've been pleased with the lift so far. To answer your questions,
1. It could be possible if you were to add an inline valve on one or both of the hydraulic lines. The flow divider is in the base of the control unit so you could add the valves there. Basically one line comes out of the pump into the divider which ... divides the flow to the 2 platforms. I don't know if it's a good idea to block off one side you would have to check into that.
2. I see no harm in adding additional locking block to the bottom, I've not needed any others than the highest and the lowest. I have a set of car dollies that my ass fits in perfect so I roll around under the car on that sitting completely upright. just don't roll into the lift well, it will startle you ever time.
3. I installed mine right at 40", a little closer would have been better 37" perhaps
I did have a little letdown a couple weeks back. I bought a 04 TJ and the wheel base is actually too short to fit on the lift. nothing a couple of blocks couldn't solve
Great job!
Question:
What is your exact ceiling height?
10 ft
Do you use this only for your own vehicles? Or do you service other cars at home?
Personal use only.
how far apart are the too lifts 40 or 46 inches im thinking of buying the same one
Wondering the same thing. Spacing.
He answered in a reply above. These are set at 40”
.wat the price
Def need an update video of the wood working top for the lift. 👍🏼
5:43 lol
Close but NO Cigar: If they made a drive on, I'd buy it. I'm tired or crawling around on the floor with mirrors positioning lift pads.
great but expensive
True. But they’ve gotten even more expensive. Just like anything else buy when you can because things just don’t ever get cheaper.
So much better if you would have done this as Show & Tell at same time...talk as you do...
Those over its are completely unnecessary and look terrible. Should have watched a few more UA-cam videos.
Too noisy going up and down and yes too slow 👎
worst lifter