Looks like Mr. Color Leveling Thinner works well with this varnish. I thin at 50:50 and spray at about 20 psi with a 0.38 needle. It's much better than unthinned - smoother, thinner layers, with much less clogging. Makes Cartograf decals look painted on. Very nice result.
Excellent tutorial, and excellent coating and appearance. A new subscriber because I have reentered modeling after a very long sabbatical and I am amazed at the huge revolution in materials, your videos are a wealth of information on using the right brands to help me gain the knowledge of materials to improve consistency. In fact your products are liked" conservation chemicals" because you can remove them and go back to original staring base with damage.
Thanks a lot for your kind comment, there will be more videos with commentary coming and our website www.vms-supplies.com holds a wealth of information you may find useful as well. Welcome back to modelling and stay in touch! Chris
Hello, No you do not need to use varnish prior applying decals. Silvering can be the result of air trapped between decals and model - one just needs to make sure they stick properly. Then the coat of varnish applied over finishes the job. We have 2 videos about decals will be uploading them with voice over soon. Chris
Greetings from Canada. Thanks for the informative video. Can this varnish be sanded/polished to remove any imperfections once it has dried? Can it take enamel weathering paints, once it is dry?
Hello, yes it can be polished. It's impervious to enamel weathering products, please check out this video where we weather this very model with enamel products: ua-cam.com/video/c8R7qT1aldM/v-deo.html Happy modelling, Chris
This video changed my modelling life! I am a beginner. I have never found airbrushing paint particularly difficult, but until I saw this video I had never been able to airbrush varnish and get a good finish - certainly with matt and gloss. Flushed with confidence having successfully varnished a number of models I attempted to varnish several models late one evening - I over did it and ended up with serious runs. Is there an easy way to remove varnish without completely destroying my paint finish?
Hi Neal, If you used VMS Varnish HD and the paint cured several days before you applied it you may be able to remove it using our acrylic airbrush thinners (green label). Other varnish brands it's unknown. If you use other brand's varnish I suggest switching to VMS, there is slim chance you will ever get runs even if you spray very generously, it's a very user-friendly product. Chris
@@Vmssupplies Hi Chris, I will purchase some right away. It was in fact VMS Varnish. I had my very first successful varnishing session last week - but went over the top this week - it is hard to make VMS varnish run - but not impossible. It was entirely my fault though. I will report progress. Kind regards, Neil
You need to apply it with a flat brush and gently swipe, the varnish should give in and peel off, this is very tricky as paint can react also. It will work if paint coat is well cured, at least several days old, and varnish fresh, a day old or so. No guarantees but doable if there is good application time difference between the paint and varnish. Best of luck! Chris
Hi, newbie question here - when you spray the model, do you spray the entire thing? or do you spray in sections? I'm asking as it seems like the self levelling of the product would pool at the bottom of the sides (due to gravity) unless you place the model side up. Hope that makes sense?
You can spray the top and side sections of model first then once it's dry you can do the bottom. The product will not run down due to gravity on vertical surfaces unless you really overdo it, no need to worry, it's user friendly. It's more a question of handling - you simply can't move the model around it it's wet, without disturbing the varnish with your fingers. Spray the top then the sides first, wait till dry, flip it and spray the bottom.
Chris,it's good that the pigments are small,there was nothing worse that a blocked ab by large lumps when using some makes . Looks thick ,but the result is impressive. Prefer the sound off , back to the old text !
Are you able to use oil paint thinned with odorless thinner over this varnish?? Or will this affect the varnish top coat. Because that's what I like to weather my armor models with.
Does the matt actually dry matt when you apply it wet? The only reason I ask is that it goes against the practice of applying flat clear coats which require multiple light passes coupled with a faster drying thinner. Thanks.
Good question. VMS matt varnish will dry dead matte every time, one thing to remember is to shake the bottle well. The technique you are referring to was invented to to work with incorrectly formulated varnishes which lack matting agent, there one needs to do several passes for the matte to show as there is too little matting agent. Our varnish requires just one layer and it can be as thick as you like it will always dry dead matt as there is enough matting agent in the formula, provided the product is mixed well.
Hello, As long as your tool is proper clean 0.3 nozzle will spray OK and you can slightly dilute with our acrylic thinner (green label) as well. Lacquer thinner is incompatible since this is a water based product.
Hello, Not really a fan of these as it's a spray and pray kind of situation. Don't know which ones to recommend really, maybe Tamiya or AK? I can recommend our matte Varnish HD in XXL 100 ml bottles, it's similar capacity to a rattle can as half a rattle can is gas anyway so it's an impression of having a lot of product. With our 100 ml bottle and an airbrush with 0.4-0.5 nozzle you will have the accuracy and control of an airbrush and the efficiency of a can. My mom who is an artist uses these to varnish her paintings which are 100 x 50 cm, so a lot of area to cover. 😁
Hello, Nozzle 0.2 is better suited for detailing not for applying overall coats. It should pump the varnish OK if it's 100% clean but it can clog as 0.2 is really tight. You may check, and see how you do, if you have high skill it may be OK. It's simply easier when you use 0.4 nozzle. Thinner is not advised, it will affect the viscosity, and can cause your varnish to run. Only use thinner for old matte varnish that lost a lot of water due to evaporation and the bottle is almost empty.
@@Vmssupplies Thank you for answer, VMS. Nozzle 0,4 is really much better, no thinning, high preasure is important too. For me was a little bit difficult to keep wet surface with high preasure especially around the gun barrel and small parts because of accumulation of warnish. Main problem was plugging of nozzle after longer spraying, for me is varnish quite thick. But the result is excellent, the surface of my tank is so smooth. Some spots are not perfect, but scratches and mud will cover it later. Thank you for tutorial, it was very helpful.
Yes, but the result may be inferior to one done with an airbrush. If you paint a lot with a brush the result will be similar to what you achieve with paints. Happy modelling, Chris
Definitely worth it, the varnish is amazing and the experience very rewarding. Even low cost Chinese airbrush (all metal not those crappy ones made of plastic) will do, just the nozzle needs to be at least 0.3 or best 0.4. Happy modelling, Chris
@@Vmssupplies oh my god thank you so much for making this! ive been looking for so long for a good varnish thats waterbased. also once the gloss dries, will it react with any thinners?
My favourite satin varnish!
Cheers mate!
Best modelling varnishes there are! Great video
Thanks a lot - coming from you that means a lot!
Looks like Mr. Color Leveling Thinner works well with this varnish. I thin at 50:50 and spray at about 20 psi with a 0.38 needle. It's much better than unthinned - smoother, thinner layers, with much less clogging. Makes Cartograf decals look painted on. Very nice result.
@@homunculous007 You use lacquer thinner with these?
You don't need to use thinner. If you insist on using only our acrylic thinner (green label). Lacquer thinner would jelly it up. Chris
Definitely buying these, the advice on how to remove varnish is a game changer for me, awesome video!
Glad you liked the video and thanks a lot for your kind comment! Happy modelling, Chris
Excellent tutorial, and excellent coating and appearance. A new subscriber because I have reentered modeling after a very long sabbatical and I am amazed at the huge revolution in materials, your videos are a wealth of information on using the right brands to help me gain the knowledge of materials to improve consistency. In fact your products are liked" conservation chemicals" because you can remove them and go back to original staring base with damage.
Thanks a lot for your kind comment, there will be more videos with commentary coming and our website www.vms-supplies.com holds a wealth of information you may find useful as well. Welcome back to modelling and stay in touch! Chris
Perfect video. I did all the mistakes on my first project. Now I know what happend, thanks! Subscribed.
Thanks, glad you found it useful! Chris
Impressive. I did at first think it looked a bit thickly applied, but what a result
Thanks Peter glad you enjoyed it! Happy modelling, Chris
After my first try with satin, the best varnish I ever used. Spraying was perfect, only follow this video and no problems!
Thank a lot Sebastian! Glad to hear that you like the result! 😁 Cheers, Chris
Do you have to spray a layer of varnish before applying decals to avoid silvering? Or does spraying varnish after decals rectify that also?
Hello, No you do not need to use varnish prior applying decals. Silvering can be the result of air trapped between decals and model - one just needs to make sure they stick properly. Then the coat of varnish applied over finishes the job. We have 2 videos about decals will be uploading them with voice over soon. Chris
Greetings from Canada. Thanks for the informative video. Can this varnish be sanded/polished to remove any imperfections once it has dried? Can it take enamel weathering paints, once it is dry?
Hello, yes it can be polished. It's impervious to enamel weathering products, please check out this video where we weather this very model with enamel products: ua-cam.com/video/c8R7qT1aldM/v-deo.html Happy modelling, Chris
@@Vmssupplies Thanks, Chris, for the reply.
This video changed my modelling life! I am a beginner. I have never found airbrushing paint particularly difficult, but until I saw this video I had never been able to airbrush varnish and get a good finish - certainly with matt and gloss. Flushed with confidence having successfully varnished a number of models I attempted to varnish several models late one evening - I over did it and ended up with serious runs. Is there an easy way to remove varnish without completely destroying my paint finish?
Hi Neal, If you used VMS Varnish HD and the paint cured several days before you applied it you may be able to remove it using our acrylic airbrush thinners (green label). Other varnish brands it's unknown. If you use other brand's varnish I suggest switching to VMS, there is slim chance you will ever get runs even if you spray very generously, it's a very user-friendly product. Chris
@@Vmssupplies Hi Chris, I will purchase some right away. It was in fact VMS Varnish. I had my very first successful varnishing session last week - but went over the top this week - it is hard to make VMS varnish run - but not impossible. It was entirely my fault though.
I will report progress.
Kind regards,
Neil
@@Vmssupplies Hi Chris, just ordered some airbrush thinner - should I apply it neat via my airbrush?
You need to apply it with a flat brush and gently swipe, the varnish should give in and peel off, this is very tricky as paint can react also. It will work if paint coat is well cured, at least several days old, and varnish fresh, a day old or so. No guarantees but doable if there is good application time difference between the paint and varnish. Best of luck! Chris
@@Vmssupplies Chris - worked like a dream! Unbelievable! I removed all of the varnish without damaging the paint finish.
Hi, newbie question here - when you spray the model, do you spray the entire thing? or do you spray in sections? I'm asking as it seems like the self levelling of the product would pool at the bottom of the sides (due to gravity) unless you place the model side up. Hope that makes sense?
You can spray the top and side sections of model first then once it's dry you can do the bottom. The product will not run down due to gravity on vertical surfaces unless you really overdo it, no need to worry, it's user friendly. It's more a question of handling - you simply can't move the model around it it's wet, without disturbing the varnish with your fingers. Spray the top then the sides first, wait till dry, flip it and spray the bottom.
@@Vmssupplies , thanks for replying, much appreciated!!
Thank you for sharing this
Glad you like it David! Stay tuned for more videos with commentary. 😁 Chris
Chris,it's good that the pigments are small,there was nothing worse that a blocked ab by large lumps when using some makes . Looks thick ,but the result is impressive. Prefer the sound off , back to the old text !
Thanks!
Are you able to use oil paint thinned with odorless thinner over this varnish?? Or will this affect the varnish top coat. Because that's what I like to weather my armor models with.
Sure no problems here, our weathering line is all enamel based.
Does the matt actually dry matt when you apply it wet? The only reason I ask is that it goes against the practice of applying flat clear coats which require multiple light passes coupled with a faster drying thinner. Thanks.
Good question. VMS matt varnish will dry dead matte every time, one thing to remember is to shake the bottle well. The technique you are referring to was invented to to work with incorrectly formulated varnishes which lack matting agent, there one needs to do several passes for the matte to show as there is too little matting agent. Our varnish requires just one layer and it can be as thick as you like it will always dry dead matt as there is enough matting agent in the formula, provided the product is mixed well.
When you don’t have a .4 nozzle but a .3, is it possible to thin the satin varnish with water or tamiya lacquer thinner retarder type?
Hello, As long as your tool is proper clean 0.3 nozzle will spray OK and you can slightly dilute with our acrylic thinner (green label) as well. Lacquer thinner is incompatible since this is a water based product.
Can you recommend a good matte varnish that's in a spray can? I'm working on a 1/48 scale model and it's too large for a Air brush job!
Thanks 😊
Hello, Not really a fan of these as it's a spray and pray kind of situation. Don't know which ones to recommend really, maybe Tamiya or AK? I can recommend our matte Varnish HD in XXL 100 ml bottles, it's similar capacity to a rattle can as half a rattle can is gas anyway so it's an impression of having a lot of product. With our 100 ml bottle and an airbrush with 0.4-0.5 nozzle you will have the accuracy and control of an airbrush and the efficiency of a can. My mom who is an artist uses these to varnish her paintings which are 100 x 50 cm, so a lot of area to cover. 😁
@Vmssupplies OK you talked me into, I'll give it a try! And great tutorial and video BTW! 👍
Can they be directly mixed into regular acrylic paint to make them more matte?
I believe so, they are acrylic just like the paints so it should work.
Hi can this be brush painted or does it require an airbrush?
Hello, you can also brush it as any paint. An airbrush yields quicker and better results though.
And what about nozzle 0,2 mm, is it possible to use it, when I use VMS Airbrush Thinners 2.0? What ratio do you recommend?
Hello, Nozzle 0.2 is better suited for detailing not for applying overall coats. It should pump the varnish OK if it's 100% clean but it can clog as 0.2 is really tight. You may check, and see how you do, if you have high skill it may be OK. It's simply easier when you use 0.4 nozzle. Thinner is not advised, it will affect the viscosity, and can cause your varnish to run. Only use thinner for old matte varnish that lost a lot of water due to evaporation and the bottle is almost empty.
@@Vmssupplies Thank you for answer, VMS. Nozzle 0,4 is really much better, no thinning, high preasure is important too. For me was a little bit difficult to keep wet surface with high preasure especially around the gun barrel and small parts because of accumulation of warnish. Main problem was plugging of nozzle after longer spraying, for me is varnish quite thick. But the result is excellent, the surface of my tank is so smooth. Some spots are not perfect, but scratches and mud will cover it later. Thank you for tutorial, it was very helpful.
Awesome job and video!!
What model is this? Seems like it would be a great build.
Hi Gordon, It's a Vietnam era M113 from AFV Club - a splendid kit, joy to build. Happy modelling, Chris
@@Vmssupplies beautiful model and very well done! And I love the VMS line!! Especially the flexy glue!
It's water based coat?
Yes. Best you can get. :) Happy modelling, Chris
Hello.Can i use this over laquer like Mr Color?
Hi, Yes, it's compatible.
Can I varnish with a brush?
Yes, but the result may be inferior to one done with an airbrush. If you paint a lot with a brush the result will be similar to what you achieve with paints. Happy modelling, Chris
All three are sprayed the same way?
Yes Colin, all spray the same and level well on their own. Happy modelling, Chris
Cant find it here in canada
Best order directly or chase our CA stockist. Chris
PSI?
Here: ua-cam.com/video/vb-9iLtPRNw/v-deo.html
@@Vmssupplies Thanks I missed the part!
Man I want to get ancairbrush just to try this
Definitely worth it, the varnish is amazing and the experience very rewarding. Even low cost Chinese airbrush (all metal not those crappy ones made of plastic) will do, just the nozzle needs to be at least 0.3 or best 0.4. Happy modelling, Chris
are these hd varnishes lacquer or waterbased acrylics?
Water-based, user friendly product.
@@Vmssupplies oh my god thank you so much for making this! ive been looking for so long for a good varnish thats waterbased. also once the gloss dries, will it react with any thinners?