Testing Woodworkings Most Dangerous Techniques
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- Опубліковано 20 кві 2024
- I Tested Woodworkings Most Dangerous Tool
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I finally found a 16" radial arm saw to try some of the insane tests from the manufacturers user manual in the 1960's
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Cool, where are the $60 safety glasses I ordered months ago?
I Love your videos and channel 🩶
10,000 likes already!
May I suggest using a clamp to hold the piece against the fence instead of your hand for the bevel cut, so you can stand farther away from the blade and off of it's path if it decides to do a Mad Max boomerang on you.
Can u make a custom chess board
It’s my favorite game to play
I was trained on a saw that size in the 1980s in my cabinet making class and again in my wood technology classes. My instructor kept stressing, "never bend your elbow when using a radial arm saw”. Keep your elbow joint in your arm locked and pull the blade back by rotating your torso. That prevents the saw from running away with you and lurching toward you. The second safety rule with it is to never cross your arms. If you keep your arms from crossing, it helps keep your other hand from getting in line with the cut and keeps your hand attached to your body. I still use this rule with sliding compound miter saws. My instructors also warned us to only use the radial arm saw for crosscuts and leave the rip cuts to the table saw. All three of my instructors at two different colleges had all three of these rules in place.
I am 66 now, when I was a kid, starting at 14-15, I worked for my uncle who built apts. we would use such a saw for prep work. 2 by blocks, posts, various sized headers (from 2x4 headers to 2x12 headers) and such. Unc would have a list for me every morning. I miss those days, it was work, but it was fun. If you know what I mean.
"Nope. No no no no nope." Glad you stopped. I was fully puckered and I wasn't even in the shop.
I laughed so hard at this lol. Good one
I'm fully puckered and I haven't even watched the video.
Quick question.... Are we sure Peter is a fan, and not someone who despises you? LOL 😄
That is 100% a fair and valid question lol, also is he possibly the beneficiary on the life insurance or in contact with whoever is XD
No truer questions or statements were ever fucking written!!! THIS MACHINE IS SCARY AS HELL - even in just the mind, let alone reality!!
Growing up this was the first benchtop saw my dad bought. I started using it when i was 14. Maybe it's just due to my experience with it, but i don't find it that scary. I never did any gut cut style cutting...
You are missing parts that make the saw a lot safer. The large hole on the front of the blade guard holds a rod with anti-kickback pawls. There also should be a guard in the rear that holds the material down which greatly reduces climb and kick-back as you feed sheet stock in. I wouldn't ever feed a rip cut without the rear hold down guard; the way you did it was pretty dangerous.
Was just gonna say that , mine still has them
I came to the comments looking for this. The anti-kickback pawls are missing. And on my 6.5 Black and Decker (about 75 year old tool [Green and Red]) the blade guard is adjustable. It can be 'tilted' forwards and back so you don't get blasted with dust / debris.
Sorry I will keep my table saw and 12" sliding miter, thanks. This saw died a very necessary and timely death, IMO.
I was just commenting on how there is supposed to be something that I thought was called a claw! I was so close on the name lol
My Craftsman RAS had extra guards over the blade. Yours must be missing some.
I have a 12" craftsman, I would love to have a 16", I also agree with these saws being to dangerous for beginners. my high school woodshop class had one and our instructor had it OFF LIMITS to everyone but advanced class
My father has a 12" Craftsman radial and I have a 90 degree scar on my left arm from it due to a ripping accident. Blade grabbed the oak board he was ripping and shot it at me. I somehow got my arm between it and my head or it could have been a lot worse. I still don't know how it didn't break my arm. Far as I know, he hasn't used that saw for ripping wood since and I'm VERY careful of the direction a saw blade is travelling when cutting.
"advanced class" of 16 years olds with 16" death blades... FML... old school days didn't care about safety
We had one in my shop class too and our instructor paid ZERO attention to anything... I used that thing all the time, freeken awesome!
Yeah I grew up using a craftsman 12”.
@@cjamesfox pretty sure advanced means more experience aka older students not 16 year olds
I have one that looks identical. You are missing an anti kickback device. It is 5/8” solid rod that drops down a hole next to the dust discharge with some barbs on the end that allow wood to slide under them but only 1 way.
The cutting deck is designed to be easily re- configurable leaving a spacer wherever you want that puts your fence in the spot you want.
You could spin your Motorhead 180 degrees that would allow the belly cut….but that’s as sketchy as waving a rag in the wind of the massive blade!
Helpful hint, always loosen the nut in the same direction that the teeth go. Tighten against the teeth
Elegantly simple yet very useful tip, thanks for sharing.
This video is just 24 minutes of anxiety, so many squirrely moments. Def a machine that'll never be in my shop that's for sure.
I thougt i was The only one😂
I have always wanted one but seeing these videos makes me never want to even be around one.
I'd buy a Shop Smith before this death trap. Geeze, too sketchy.
@@mromutt look up brian weekley, he understands how to use the saw properly. this video is a waste of time as he threw it up for views without truly learning the saw.
My dad has one of these in his woodshop in the garage...I only remember him using it for crosscutting..but even as a kid I was always intimidated by it just because of the sound and the amount of airflow it put out..
When ripping, you turn the blade guard down so it's just above the wood being ripped. That way it doesn't chuck so much wood at you and in later versions they had an anti-kickback tool that was on the guard.
Malecki is trying to show this saw as best as he can but these details make this saw less dangerous though
I appreciate this. I wont be using it for that function tho haha
I love your work and channel and subscribed long ago! But. Sorry , even if you don’t use this function there are many, many, many foolish people. These people will take what you as an experienced wood work shows and assume it’s okay, “ John” did it! Please be a good example. I mean talk the line but play safe under the top story. I personally own Dewalt and Delta/Rockwell RAS , I love them and are very careful when using them.
@@chrisdzisiak7540The reality is that no one is responsible for the safety of another adult except for the adult themselves. If someone chooses to be a moron, that is their fault and only theirs. It is not up to John, you or anyone else to keep people from doing dumb shit.
@@JohnMaleckiUnscrewedThe problem is that by not showing it being done with common sense and the correct tools for safety, you are making the saw seem like more of a death trap than it actually is. Even if you don’t plan on using it to rip, you ought to at least try it properly. Perhaps you should get someone with more expertise to help, like you did with the shop-smith tool.
I own a radial arm saw, I use it all the time to rip and crosscut. I don’t own a miter saw and table saw, I don’t have the space to have both of those in my garage.
DEFINITELY GET A ELECTRIC BRAKE FITTED! Had a similar saw in the place I did my apprenticeship, only used for cross cutting batons before machining down.
Yeah, just for reference the legal time for a bladed machine to come to a halt in the UK is less than 10 seconds :)
With a 16" blade the force of a DC brake making it come to a stop would likely unscrew the nut holding the blade on because the blade isn't pinned to the arbour, so the inertia of the blade wants to continue spinning and thus unscrews the nut. That said, you could probably adjust the brake to stop in 10-15 seconds or so which wouldn't cause so much strain as stopping in 2 or 3 seconds, still much better than 5 minutes.
@@WoodMachinist As long as it can just slightly slow it without trying to stop it that would make a huge difference in its safety and use. Kind of like brakes on a bike, you can use them to add just a slight friction to take a little moment out without just clamping down and stopping like you would do going down hill. I don't know if you would get that kind of adjustment out of an electric brake addon but if you can I think thats the way to go.
I do run a radial arm saw every day. Mine is a 14" original saw, the most productive tool in my shop. After I assemble a cut list, I mark out stop locations, turn the saw on, and keep feeding it material until the cutlist is finished. I never take it out of its 90 degree orientation, I'll go so far as to cut the long dimension on the radial arm saw then switch to a miter saw for all the angles. When used in the sort of production environment I'm describing, I find these safe, efficient, and more enjoyable to use than any alternative I've found.
My father had a giant old radial arm saw in his commercial woodworking shop for 20+ years (he made wood windows and doors) and it was pretty much a single task tool, for cross cutting giant rough milled slabs of wood to length, before running through the thickness planer. It just sat on a bench at the back of the warehouse, right between huge racks for lumber storage and I don't think he ever messed with any setting on it ever, except when changing the blade between sharpening, because it was never used for precision. That side of the shop also had the shaper, so I guess it was the "watch your damn fingers!" zone
23:30 take the blade off and spin it through 360 so the wires on the other side of the carrier!!
Then you can use the full slide rail.
180 degrees, actually. Derp!😅
@@bjornolson6527 180 on x axis + 180 on a axis= 360? :)
But yes your correct.
I bought a 10" Craftsman in about 1975 and used it for many years. When you do rip cuts you rotate the guard so that the leading edge is barely above your wood. That covers the most dangerous part of the blade. A hose from the dust elbow on the top of the guard is run into a dust hood at the back of the saw attached to a shop vac. That gets 90+ % of the dust. It was cleaner to use than most mitre saws today.
Straight cut off, mitres, compound bevels, in and out rips were all easy and safe.
I did use a dado head on straight dados but would never even think of using a moulding head. Scared the you know what out of me.
I finally got rid of it only because a table saw worked better for what I was doing then and I didn't have room for both.
But it was a very useful tool.
Took a bit of TLC to keep it square though. Adjusted that quite a lot. But the adjustments were easy and straighforward.
I love the shop shades ads. What I'd love even more is if you'd actually ship my order out which was ordered March 3rd.
Good luck lol. I pre-ordered mine in November of 23 and haven't heard a peep. An update would be nice.
@@ChiKusari So essentially the ONLY people who actually have these "shop shades" are those in the videos.
March 3rd orders are being packed up today!
When I was 17 (back in the 80's) my 1st "propper" job was at a place called Bate Welding and Engineering Supplies. My job was to sharpen TCT saw blades. The biggest ones were for British Rail and they were between 36" and 42". That must have been a monster machine that they went on.
What sort of machine do you think they would have been used on?
@@James-dv1df Something that huge had to be something like a giant mill right? I cant imagine what else could use them. I would love to see a blade that big in person but never want to meet the machine it goes in haha
I use a 14” radial at work daily to rip plywood for export crates. The way I get around the potential kick back is to use a sacrificial board to feed the one I’m cutting through the cut. Also when ripping you can tip your blade guard down so that most of the duct comes out the shoot and not straight back at you.
Hi John , I ve been a carpenter for over 30 years, I've used many radial arms saws, they are great for cross-cutting and doing dato cut . a big 16" saw is good if you work in a mill or a wood yard . all of those other features are great but should never been done . I like using the saw for the cross cut instead of doing the cut on a table saw
I've actually seen machines like this being modified with "primitive breaks". Essentially make a hole in the "blade guard", weld on a threaded pipe. Take a durable cylindrical piece of rubber which fits into the pipe and use that as the "break caliber" - and then use a screw/cap/plunger - whatever you choose to apply it towards the blade. Just be "fairly gentle" when applying break force in a place which was not designed for it - and remember to disengage it before stating it up again. (You can also make a spring-loaded mechanism which automatically disengages when you stop pushing it - however that's a bit more involved 😀)
Did you mean brake?
9:20 when I saw you get that rag so close to the blade to showcase the airflow, I just started sweating when I thought about how it could get caught on the blade and pulled in. Or maybe I am overthinking this and have watched final destination one too many times
Think everyone thought that :) huge ass blades or machinery and loose cloth gives me the willys.
I was staring at that tail intently as it whipped back and forth😅😅😅😅😅😅
I just watched you make several errors with your RAS
1. Read the Mister Sawdust book before you use the saw.
2. That saw needs a much bigger/longer table. I use a 3 piece table, 2 pieces behind the fence puts you further from the blade for most cuts. Move the the extra table piece in front only when you need the extra width
3. Make your cross cuts from the left. Hold the stock with your left hand and the saw with the right hand.
4. Throughly inspect the machine and install the missing parts. Anti kick-back bar...
5. When ripping rotate the blade guard to just above the piece being fed into the blade. Adjust the anti-kickback bar to the material thickness. Use a much longer push stick shaped like a tablesaw push stick that fits between blade and fence.
6. All tools require the operator to be familiar with operations. I recently replaced a sliding miter saw with a 1956 Dewalt RAS and I love it. It sits closer to the wall and makes perfect cross cuts and dados.
Great tool you have acquired I look forward to more videos as you become proficient with this tool.
Keep up the great content.
On the vertical rip, you also have to remember that it was standard practice for woodworkers to wear a dress shirt and tie. Imagine doing that cut (or any of them for that matter) with basically an improvised noose around your neck 😬
I have personal used one of theses and it is terrifying. We used it to cut pressure treated 6x6x16’ down, it would go right through one of them like a hot knife butter. That saw wouldn’t just cut a finger off it would take ur whole arm off and u wouldn’t even know it.
I ran a 20" in a millshop for years. Beautiful piece of equipment! Wish I had space for a larger one in my own shop.
I saw that final image/diagram was thinking to myself no way he is going to try that!? I wasn't even in the shop and my heart rate was through the roof just watching this video.
My grandfather has a 10" RAS, and got me a 10" one as well. I use it for crosscut only, as I have other tools for the other cuts. I know he has used his for ripping, and has suggested I try it for ripping also. But I have had thoughs similar to what you experienced, and also have a nice table saw,so I use it instead. So much easier for set up, and safer for usage.
The blade spinning endlessly is a good indicator that the spindle bearings are in need of new grease. Great video John, I think these are excellent for crosscutting.
I studied technical theatre in college. Our shop had a huge old time beefy radial arm like this. Everything that came off our bench ran through it. We, quite literally, would have it running for hours. If you can master the radial arm, you are going to have SUCH a productivity boost (especially with batches of goods.) You can do joinery, dado stacks, and quickly bulk out your framing members (I recall we'd use our's to cut 4-5 2 by 4's in one pass.) you simply can't beat it. Never overlook the radial arm! Wish more modern shops used them. We had 18 year old tap dancing acting students running one first day of class haha they're simple but frightening.
Seems like a lot of potential that comes with a lot of learning curve to get the most out of these *safely*
This saw looks like a lot of fun. And your dust extraction system really satisfies my tism.
Back in '70s I worked for a lumber yard. We used a big 16" radial arm saw for cutting framing lumber. We had very few accidents and when we did we found a bit of crazy glue and a buffing wheel buffed everything right out.
I used to use that saw in our shop when I was doing construction. The shop was an old cabinet shop and that Delta cut smooth.
My father bought a 10" Dewalt radial saw new in 1958. I still have that saw in my shop today and can't imagine not having it. I have 8 foot in feed and out feed tables on each end of the saw therefor I don't get stuck like you did. As for the blade deflection , your blade is not lined up parallel to the fence. There are adjustments for every aspect of that saw. You had my heart rate up when did the rip cut because you are missing the anti kick back paw!!! My saw still has the original maple top on it and as the humidity changes in the shop I have to check cut squareness every now and then. Get a better operators manual on the saw and it will show all the adjustments that can be done on that saw. By the way I was never brave enough to do the gut cut rip. I use my saw almost every day. Keep up the the good videos and be safe!!! Mike
I miss having my radial arm saws. I have had 3 over the years. My 12" craftsman was a strong work horse. The 14" delta was under powered for hard woods, unless I put a 12" blade on it. And my 16" delta very much like the one you got was a great saw. Mine had a blade break on it. It was just a lever that I would push on to slow the blade spinning down faster
Used one almost exactly like that to cross cut 2x4s for crates. Except we added a dynamic brake and a hand trigger to start it. Never thought twice about using it
Dude... I built so many projects on a 10" Craftsman radial saw in my younger days. Did rip cuts, cross cuts, even raised panes with a shaper attachment. I'm luck to be alive. LOL
I grew up using a 10” craftsman radial saw. Always preferred it to the table saw, but happy I have replaced it with a 12” compound miter saw which is so much easier to configure than the radial was. Probably lucky I never did something stupid with it
At work we have an original saw 20" radial arm saw. It's a much newer model. But it's a pleasure to use. We cut a lot of larger timbers with it.
I got taught to use a pretty big cross cut like this at a timber yard for my first job when I was 15, the biggest I ever cut would be a 3x9 sapele or oak board. Biggest tip is keep your arm straight because when it bites or hits a knot it'll yank your absolute arm off, it'll also stop it wanting to "walk off the table" 🤙🏻
This is so amusing. I grew up with a radial arm saw. I was using that before using regular power saws.
I had a DeWalt rad saw in my shop class in high school. there was a hand break to speed up the braking of the blade. I'm not sure if it was "after market" install in the saw or if it was factory? but your saw might have one?
Dado's, Rabbit's, dental moulding, ect, The radial arm saw is a great shop saw, and when properly maintained is super accurate.
Used these everyday in uk, brilliant for repeat cuts, depth cuts, ripping rough sawn planks to length, really good for cutting bevelled shoulders on tenons
You ought to see the rough cut blade they use in sawmills. Some those get up around 60" diameter. I used to work near one and it was a crazy feeling bring close to it
I have a 10" and I love it for cross cuts. I'd absolutly pickup a 16" for cutting 4x4s in one pass.
Liked for a tear down video.
Had this exact model (minus the weird dust collection thing that this one has) in a wood shop I used to work at. But they had it altered so that none of the adjustments could be made. You could only slide it forward and back while cutting material. They also had a sort of raised bed built around the blade so the blade wasn't exposed. It was only used for 90 degree cuts on 2x Materials. 2x4, 2x6, etc. You slid the 2x materials under/in to the "raised bed". It was actually a pretty genius way to make a very unsafe saw, safe. They had it there for longer than the 10 years I was there with no incidents.
Owning one of these, on the rip cut, I often stop it most of the way through and pull the material through from the other side so I can maintain pressure against the fence.
I been seeing a ton of these 10" on marketplace in my area, 50-100 bucks...I'm getting one just for half laps an such...there is a huge advantage to owning one, and cheap..all the ones I see are craftsman...use to be a time they was everywhere, in school to... But for joinery it's a game changer ..
John, I would love to see the safety demo's surrounding these saws. Maybe clam a workpiece to the table and pull the carriage with a string to show how the saw wants to run and how it will try to jump at you. Maybe use a ballistic dummy to show the carnage that can happen.
I have an old Craftsman that does all these things - including being able to set it up as a sander.
It's a 12" blade, however. This is the type of tool we used in our old shop class. (I'm old. We were disposable back then.)
I have a sears/craftsman 10 in radial arm thats been in the family for awhile now it got passed to my dad then me and ive been using it since i was around 10-12 (currently 25) and i had no idea people were that scared of it lol makes me rethink when i use it now also i had no idea the crazy cuts you can make on one
I would love to see you try the projectile lunching mode on that saw
When I was a senior in HS (late '60's, early '70's) I worked in my grandfather's woodshop. I think that was back when a "miter saw" was a u shaped wood structure that you put your 2X4 wood in and cut it with a handsaw. The 2 pieces of equipment that were most important in his shop were the table saw and the radial arm saw. What you're not showing with the radial arm, at least in our shop, every task on that saw had its own jig and, if there wasn't one existing, we made them. I don't ever remember being scared of the saw. We did lot ripping with it. There were long infeed and outfeed tables to support the wood. As you say, kickback was one of the biggest concerns. We were aware of the dangers of the saw(s) but we had systems and jigs to make them safer.
Remiids me of the saw we had in high school shop class!
The radial arm saw at my school has like a 12 foot table. We never make rip cuts with it but if we ever did we have a long table so the material can't fall
We had the exact same saw in Miron Lumber yard , it was a beast !
I used a radial arm saw years ago in high school. It was a great tool and as long as you don't have the saw blade directly pointed at a body part it was super-safe. I only used it for crosscuts and dados so perhaps other functions are more dangerous but for other functions I either used a table saw or hand tools. I always felt the radial arm saw felt safer than the table saw so maybe I'm just different than other users. Maybe it was because I could see the blade where-as with a table saw the blade was often hidden for dado cuts and rabbets. The saw I used had a auto brake function when power was removed which I'm sure makes a difference.
Holy smokes! Every time you pointed at the saw while the blade was still spinning I was like half out of my chair ready to run for help. I know you were 6' away but it still got me. This saw is great for about 3 functions as long as you need to make long continuous cut runs, say 30 or more. Otherwise there are modern tools that aren't as multi functional, but are much better suited to safely do the same things. That being said I totally want one :)
I've only ever used the radial for rough cross cuts on rough stock to kick off the refining process
We had a De Walt 20" radial saw for cutting extruded aluminium box section, 5.5" square. We would occasionally cut mitres, but 99% of the time it was straight cuts. We had 16" and 13" diameter blades too. Never had any accidents on it, at all. We used 13" mitre saws with 13" blades for cutting aluminium too. We would fit at least 2 emergency stop buttons on every machine, just to be safe.
I have a Delta RAS and use it only with a stacked dado blade. The saw will need to be tuned up and adjusted with several excellent videos on YT showing how.
I have used radial arm saws in both high school shop and in college. We only used them to make cross cuts on rough swan material or dado cuts. Nothing else.
@23:20, about your saw being wired as to not extend a certain point.
I think the motor has been flipped over. Remove blade and rotate motor 360 degree counter-clockwise as seen at that point in the video. That should freen up the cable for maximum sketchiness.
We had a pair of these in my high school wood shop. The first month of the class was just safety demonstrations and tests and stuff, but even with all that, I don't know that I'd trust a teenager with tools like this. Also, I really didn't appreciate how dangerous tools like this are until years later, and all we did were cross cuts and miters.
Man, that saw brings back memories! Believe it or not, we had one in our high-school shop class. I used it alot from 9th to 12th grade. Back when men were men lol
Genuinely anxious watching this.
It's interesting to me to see people talk about radial arm saws as if they're strange antiques. (Maybe this is because I'm something of a strange antique myself.) I have two Sears Craftsman 10" Radial Arm saws--one I've had for about 40 years and one I picked up for $25 to keep in the basement of a rental property I own. I've never owned a table saw, though I recently inherited an old Shopsmith Mark V that I often use for the table saw function. I've use my radial arm saw mostly for crosscutting, miters, compound miters, but also for ripping. (I recently rebuilt the cedar lath fence in my front yard that required me to rip dozens of 1"x8"x8' boards to 1-1/4 slats.) I've used the planing attachment to rough plane a very uneven 4" slab of walnut that I used for a live-edge shelf for a television. I have a dado blade for it that I've used--one of those that wobbles to various widths that you set. Before I had a drill press, I used the radial arm saw as a drill a few times and I have a sanding disk and several sanding drums that I've used, too. I've also used it for molding edges with molding attachment.
I don't understand the reputation that radial arm saws have gotten for not being safe. Of course, any saw is inherently dangerous but, in all the years I've used the saw, I've only once had anything I'd consider a mishap. While ripping, the saw threw a loose knot that I hadn't noticed back hard enough to break off a little bit of the saw blade guard. Without the guard set close to the board, as you're supposed to, it could have hit me if I'd been directly behind the blade. But I usually stand a bit to the side. For crosscuts, the blade is pushing the board back against the fence and I've never had a problem with the blade wanting to climb the board. This is probably because I keep a firm grip on the saw. (I've also sometimes done a cross cut from the front, pushing back against the wood.) I've seen Stumpy Nubs' original video that rightly calls out some of the initial hype about what radial arm saws can do (ua-cam.com/video/AHRwN99fGCY/v-deo.html). (One of the manuals shows guy in a dress shirt and tie cutting full sheet of plywood in half by having the saw blade turned outward and pushing the plywood in front of the saw. Sheeze!) I've also see the rebuttal videos by radial arm saw fans and Stumpy Nubs' clarification in which he makes it clear that he's not saying that radial arm saws can't be safe; he's just criticizing some of the unsafe uses of them (ua-cam.com/video/TKL2ooTOPk8/v-deo.html). If you want to learn more about radial arm saws from an old pro, check out videos by BigMike Tuna like this one (ua-cam.com/video/CV4uXtxnOdg/v-deo.html) . (His saw is almost identical to mine, by the way.) If you want to see some terrific joinery done with a radial arm saw, check out videos by @dustylumberco. And here's an idea for an upgraded table for a radial arm saw: ua-cam.com/video/bdLaLgGCqUo/v-deo.html.
There's an interesting historical promotional film from DeWalt about the use of the DeWalt radial arm saw's use in the WWII war program here: ua-cam.com/video/HiGH0Qsu3ak/v-deo.html.
W/r to this video, not only is the saw missing the anti-kickback pawl, as @robertgruen2088 noted, but Malecki isn't adjusting the blade guard appropriately for the rips, as was noted by @leebernardo 1000.
It is all about perspective. You were taught with this, it was all you knew. Now we have more safety features, we look back at those seeing the potential hazards. I have a craftsman table saw from the 50's in my home shop. There is no safety features. No blade guard or riving knife or anything else modern saws use. Where I worked had machines from WW2. When they did get newer machines, they had to try to retrofit safety features like light curtains. In 50 years, they will look back at what we currently use as dangerous and crazy. You just dont know until things change after stuff like injuries and death.
@@nikkafrog My father had a 50's era Craftsman table saw. No safety features, to be sure, but it had a hell of a nice cast iron table--something you won't find on low-cost table saws these days. My 1970's era Craftsman radial arm saw, does have a device to prevent pinching when ripping. It's not a riving knife but a disk that rolls in the kerf keeping it from closing up. And attached to that splitter are anti-kickback pawls. Using that right, I've never had kickback.
@@nikkafrog I'm hoping one day we can find a much less sketchy successor to the angle grinder - man are they useful! Man are they sketchy!!!
New to the channel. I like what I see. Thanks for rocking the SOCOM colors on the wall !
The 16 inch radial arm saws shown in Mike's video, and this one, are the only two that I have ever seen.........I want this saw.
I just ripped my first board on my radial arm saw, the scariest thing I encountered wasn't kick back but the blade lifting the work piece up, sometimes stalling the saw, it's why when ripping your suppose to lower the guard just above the work piece
The king👑 of youtube is back
the best part of a radial arm saw is feeling it glide towards you when it gets going. man i dont know why my grandfather let me use his as a kid, still all 10 fingers though.
I worked at lumberyard in the early 80's and cut many a deck kit with one of these! 4x4, 4x6, 6x6 piece of cake!
when i was in high school in late 90s/ early 2000s our wood shop had a radial arm saw
I would really love to see any statistics on injuries related to using this insane machine
My grandfather had one of these in his woodworking barn, though I don't think it was a 16". The thing always scared me growing up and when he passed about 10yrs ago I got most of his tools, but I didn't want anything to do with the radial arm saw with how dangerous it always seemed to me.
I have one. The motor is going. Some applications are great. It great for lap joints with a dado stack.
While ripping you tilt the saw guard and connect a dust collector to the port.
This works well on my Craftsman.
Ahhhh, the good old days. That was what we had to work with. The thing is, once you got comfortable around all those cuts....THAT"S when the accidents happened.
I saw the Stumpy Nubs vid with that panel cut photo. That is insane. If you can afford a radial arm saw you surely can afford a Skilsaw and saw horses.
Can’t wait for the shop shades!
John I used a Wadkin version of that radial arm as an aprentice in the early 80's... I got the last chance to use a 24" pendulum saw from the early 30's before it was removed from active duty... check out a pendulum saw if you think the radial arm is scary...
I would highly recommend to add VFD (variable frequency driver) for that motor and program DC break so it stops immediately and not after 5 minutes. Also you can program safety stop and slow start and stuff like that.
For the rip cuts you need to adjust the blade guard down at the frint end of the cut to prevent it from picking the material up at the beginning of the cut. And there are anti kickback pauls that are missing that wedge the kerf of the cut at the backside much like a riving knife on a table saw. I rip my plywood with a craftsman 10in radial arm saw (not full sheets, i do full sheets with a straight edge and a circular saw).
I could get a lot of use from this i think. I have a track saw that can deal with ply but this baby can do so much with a super solid base great for joinery. Dusty lumber is good at using his and keeping all his blood in his skin. Its all in the setup
Worked in a shop that had that saw. A guy with over 10 yrs there drove a 10 ft 2 X 12 through a cinder block wall ripping from the wrong side of the saw
Did notice some input about brushes or diodes that could aid in the saw break..honestly I bet some were on the interwebs there's probably something after market for beautiful functioning dinosaurs like that delta..we had a larger version of that at Mt work place..broke my heart when they replace it with a new aged tuuurd do to a part failure for locking down material up to 6x6
Insane safety practices using this saw!
I was 19, first real job in woodshop. Use to cut six 2x4 in one quick stroke. The blade barely slow down!
Quite frightening!
Rake angle on teeth helps. It doesn’t grab if it is neutral rake. If you search specifically for radial arm blades they come up.
The rip cuts people use a push block that is a flat piece on the surface that pushes the pice and has a bracket with a handle to push it through. Sort of like a food processor pusher.
Good on you for showing how dangerous the RAS is. I have 2, one with a trenching head and the other for high quality cross cutting. The wood machining world has changed significantly since the 80s. At trade school whilst doing wood machining we were taught to (interim) sharpen 24" rip saw blades (not carbide) with a file in situ then, to ensure that all the ends of the teeth were in the same cutting circle we would feed a broken piece of grinder wheel into the infeed side of the spinning blade!!! Sparks, screaming noise. the first time you do it, it is really scary. The next scary thing is after replacing the knives in an industrial 24" thicknesser you have to do a similar thing! This time though the abrasive part to grind the cutting edges of the thicknesser knives is rod shaped and in a carriage that is micro adjustable into the cutting circle and moved across the top of the rotating cutter block with screw feed.
I wouldn't do it now.
I used the same size saw in the early 70’s during my summer job working as a Carpenters helper, once the company owner realized I could read drawings accurately and had a good work and safety attitude I was put at the yard shop prefabricating soffits and other components. The saw was a workhorse and because I grew up on a farm I had respect for its power and risks he was sad to see me leave to go back to engineering classes in the fall. I enjoyed the work, I still have the 12 inch Craftsman radial arm saw in my workshop it doesn’t get much work mostly because I have a full complement of equipment and don’t do the type of work they are best for in my 70’s , I think they areas safe as the operator’s ability to set them up and knowledge of understand the forces involved . Lack of thinking everything through and securing the work is a problem for some?
I ran one of these for almost 12yrs at an orange store that no one knows. We had a spring loaded tether that went from the saw carriage to the rear post to keep rearward tension on the saw. So if you let go, it would get pulled back into the starting location. It also stopped the saw from climb cutting, and shooting forward as you make the cut.
Honestly i can't wait to see what you make with this tool, I see how dangerous it can be. Maybe you could make your own blade guard that doesn't get in the way so you don't have to completely remove it but you are protected. It would be nice if you could add a brake to slow the blade down once the saw is off.
Me and my dad own one of these but the 10 inch varient for cutting siding it works great for that we have upgraded to something else now but this is what we used to use
*Graphic Warning*
Yeah, I was eight when my dad chopped three of his fingers off with his radial arm. Still remember him running out of the garage holding his hand up yelling at me on the swingset to not go in there as he'd left it running. That saw is now mine decades later, and while I love the saw, I have a huge amount of respect for what it can do to me if I'm not careful with it. Still even have the blade that cut his fingers off on it lol. For the record, he was ripping wood using the full travel of the saw with all the guards removed. My mother had to find the fingers in a pile of sawdust and put them on ice. Doctors tried to reattach them, only one of the three was successfully reattached.
My dad had one and wouldn’t use it. One day we did some 90 degree cuts but that was it. My miter saw does anything I would ever use a radial arm saw for. I gave it away a few years ago and said a prayer for the guys that took it.
My dad owns a rural lumber yard. I've been using this same 16" saw since i was nine. You can turn it off and still crosscut a 2x8 on blade momentum alone😅
I was hoping that you would buy an older 12" Delta or Rockwell radial arm saw and install a negative hook angle blade on it like a Forrest Chopmaster blade. These saws have a 5/8" arbor, so it is possible to use a standard 8" dado stack on the saws. I own a three phase version and a single phase version of the 12" Delta/Rockwell radial arm saws - they seem to remain accurate through several hundred cuts. Your 16" saw is of a similar design, and seems to have a blade installed that is either a negative hook or 0 degree hook design, which makes the blade much safer for crosscuts. I suggest creating a support table for the left side of the saw so that you are able to pull the saw through the cut using your right arm rather than your left arm.
My granddad had one of these. This is what I learned to cut with when I was like 8 years old. And I only have one scare where it grazed the top of my arm after turning it off. That thing would spin for what felt like 5 minutes, it's stupid scary to use but cuts amazingly.
The timber mill I used to visit as a kid had a 32" version... I saw someone take his thumb off, but was successfully sewn back on