I really like your Current Limiter design, HW.....much snazzier than mine. It's a truly valuable device and it's great that you are encouraging budding techs to build and use them.
That’s a nice dim bulb tester design. A couple of comments though. A dim bulb tester is meant to protect the equipment you’re working on from short circuits, it doesn’t do much for your own safety. What you need for that is an isolation transformer, which removes any reference to ground from the circuit you’re working on, hence making it safe to come into contact with either side of the circuit.
How can an I/T protect you from electrocution? If you happen touch Live an Neutral at the same time from the I/T's output,,, will you not get shocked? Why not use GFCI or as in Europe a RCD ?? My body will handle 15 mA for 10 m/seconds,,,, will a scope handle that ? If so, then why not not have scope and work on the same GFCI ? and no current limiter or I/T ? Please tell my why?
@@cookieboi4449 Touching both leads of the isolation transformer's output will still shock you, but it takes away the possibility of creating a circuit through a ground return, since it has no reference to earth ground. Then, if you follow the "one hand in your pocket" rule, you'll never complete a circuit that includes your heart - the worst you could do is complete a circuit across your one hand.
@@cookieboi4449 . . You've touched base on my thoughts exactly? I keep trying to understand why no one talks about using a GFCI?? I wish someone would explain that to me.
@@HandlebarWorkshops I just picked up a vintage RCA Isotap TV repairman's isolation transformer for $20. That was definitely a great deal, but there's more great deals like that out there. You can buy them right now on eBay for $100, which isn't much when you're talking about a lifesaving device. With the confusion over medical-grade isolation transformers (that are used to reduce noise in the power supply, but still carry ground through) versus technician isolation transformers (that truly isolate the output from a ground reference), it's a good idea to test the isolation of any purchase you make - whether it's brand new or 70 years old.
For anyone who's finding this video. This will not generally stop you getting a whack from the mains exactly. But they could be used for example if you have completed a repair and wish to test that you didn't fuck that up. The bulb can handle the voltage and current coming from the mains. It does pull down the current enough to protect a circuit but you are not a circuit. or at least you should avoid becoming a light bulb in a circuit yourself of you can.
Not sure if this applies... I'm charging a battery (EcoFlow 1260) with an ALP 1000 (800w continuous) 120V generator. The generator overloads & recycles when the EF 'requests' more than 1000w. It tops out at >1000 if on standard house current. If I use a 500w bulb, can this device limit the wattage to the battery to 500 watts?
While I'm not sure why you'e want more current to get through - after all, it is called a current LIMITER - it would allow more current through since you'd effectively be lowering the resistance. If you can't find a high enough wattage bulb, you could put two bulbs in series and present an increased the resistance compared to a single bulb. For instance, two 100W bulbs would be equivalent to the 200W bulb I have in the video. Thanks for watching.
Handlebar Workshops If you put 2 bulbs in series, you’d effectively sum the resistance of both bulbs, getting something equivalent of maybe a 50W lightbulb. If you want to get 200W, you need to put them in parallel.
@@HandlebarWorkshops actually, a 200W lightbulb, lets 1.667A through at 120V. P/V=I. 200W÷120V=1.667A. More limiting is achieved by lower watt bulbs 60W÷120V=500mA
I am working on a vintage Marconi tube Stereo. Quick question, if things are "correct" after a cap job etc. I know it's a relative term but what if the bulbs light up just a littlel? I know it indicates current being drawn but how much is "normal". Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Just a small amount of light should be OK. Those old tube electronics draw a lot of current and that will cause the high wattage bulb to start glowing. Thanks for watching!
Depending on the bulb size, you can get anything from a faint glow to nothing during normal operation. It’s normal for the lamp to light up when first powering on since the transformer draws a lot of current before establishing a magnetic field (a small transformer with a rating of 50W might draw around 500W when first powered), and then there’s also quite hefty filter capacitors that need charging. But the lamp should quite quickly settle down to a dim glow.
Beautiful job and solid as, Brilliant. But one of the most important things that you didn't do was earth what looks like 2 metal enclosures. (Apologies if there plastic). Only 1 box would need done as the threaded joiner makes a good connection to the other. Nice 1 though.
I did, but I didn't call it out. I attached the green wire to the green lug on the side of the outlet which is connected to the metal ends were the screws are. The screws go into the square box which is connected to the circle box with a metal pipe. Thus all metal surfaces are electrically connected to the green (ground) wire. Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure what this means. Do you mean, does the WATTAGE determine how much current? Not really. You're essentially setting the bulb up in series with your equipment, thus splitting the power (P=IV) between the bulb and the equipment. The equipment will pull most of the power and the bulb gets very little. But if there is a short in the equipment, then the bulb gets all the power and limit the current to the short. Which should protect your equipment.
Should you need a bigger wattage bulb , theatre floodlights use 500 and 1000 Watt bulbs , but you will need to find or buy an E40 ( giant size ) Edison screw holder , may also be used as a VITAL temporary input ballast for the EHT transformer running many types of gas discharge tubes ( Neon , Mercury vapour etc .. ) ... also handy to safely identify the windings of a valuable but unmarked transformer ( without overheating it , due to wrong connection(s).... ) hope these tips are of use ..( ? ) ...
I really like your Current Limiter design, HW.....much snazzier than mine. It's a truly valuable device and it's great that you are encouraging budding techs to build and use them.
That’s a nice dim bulb tester design. A couple of comments though. A dim bulb tester is meant to protect the equipment you’re working on from short circuits, it doesn’t do much for your own safety. What you need for that is an isolation transformer, which removes any reference to ground from the circuit you’re working on, hence making it safe to come into contact with either side of the circuit.
How can an I/T protect you from electrocution? If you happen touch Live an Neutral at the same time from the I/T's output,,, will you not get shocked? Why not use GFCI or as in Europe a RCD ?? My body will handle 15 mA for 10 m/seconds,,,, will a scope handle that ? If so, then why not not have scope and work on the same GFCI ? and no current limiter or I/T ? Please tell my why?
@@cookieboi4449 Touching both leads of the isolation transformer's output will still shock you, but it takes away the possibility of creating a circuit through a ground return, since it has no reference to earth ground. Then, if you follow the "one hand in your pocket" rule, you'll never complete a circuit that includes your heart - the worst you could do is complete a circuit across your one hand.
@@cookieboi4449 . . You've touched base on my thoughts exactly? I keep trying to understand why no one talks about using a GFCI?? I wish someone would explain that to me.
I would say mains to true isolation transformer to current limiter. Nice idea and great job.
I completely agree, but a true isolation transformer is quite expensive.
Thank you for watching.
@@HandlebarWorkshops I just picked up a vintage RCA Isotap TV repairman's isolation transformer for $20. That was definitely a great deal, but there's more great deals like that out there. You can buy them right now on eBay for $100, which isn't much when you're talking about a lifesaving device. With the confusion over medical-grade isolation transformers (that are used to reduce noise in the power supply, but still carry ground through) versus technician isolation transformers (that truly isolate the output from a ground reference), it's a good idea to test the isolation of any purchase you make - whether it's brand new or 70 years old.
For anyone who's finding this video. This will not generally stop you getting a whack from the mains exactly. But they could be used for example if you have completed a repair and wish to test that you didn't fuck that up. The bulb can handle the voltage and current coming from the mains. It does pull down the current enough to protect a circuit but you are not a circuit. or at least you should avoid becoming a light bulb in a circuit yourself of you can.
Great advice, thank you. I should have been more clear in the video. This is to protect the equipment, not you. Be CAREFUL, please!
Not sure if this applies... I'm charging a battery (EcoFlow 1260) with an ALP 1000 (800w continuous) 120V generator. The generator overloads & recycles when the EF 'requests' more than 1000w. It tops out at >1000 if on standard house current. If I use a 500w bulb, can this device limit the wattage to the battery to 500 watts?
Possibly? Probably? But for a 500W bulb, you will need much more heavy duty components than what I used. That is a lot of current it has to handle.
If i want more current to get through could I use multiple lamps in parallel?
While I'm not sure why you'e want more current to get through - after all, it is called a current LIMITER - it would allow more current through since you'd effectively be lowering the resistance.
If you can't find a high enough wattage bulb, you could put two bulbs in series and present an increased the resistance compared to a single bulb. For instance, two 100W bulbs would be equivalent to the 200W bulb I have in the video.
Thanks for watching.
@@HandlebarWorkshops thanks! That helps a lot.
Handlebar Workshops If you put 2 bulbs in series, you’d effectively sum the resistance of both bulbs, getting something equivalent of maybe a 50W lightbulb. If you want to get 200W, you need to put them in parallel.
@@HandlebarWorkshops actually, a 200W lightbulb, lets 1.667A through at 120V. P/V=I. 200W÷120V=1.667A. More limiting is achieved by lower watt bulbs 60W÷120V=500mA
I am working on a vintage Marconi tube Stereo. Quick question, if things are "correct" after a cap job etc. I know it's a relative term but what if the bulbs light up just a littlel? I know it indicates current being drawn but how much is "normal". Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Just a small amount of light should be OK. Those old tube electronics draw a lot of current and that will cause the high wattage bulb to start glowing.
Thanks for watching!
Depending on the bulb size, you can get anything from a faint glow to nothing during normal operation. It’s normal for the lamp to light up when first powering on since the transformer draws a lot of current before establishing a magnetic field (a small transformer with a rating of 50W might draw around 500W when first powered), and then there’s also quite hefty filter capacitors that need charging. But the lamp should quite quickly settle down to a dim glow.
Dang! I wish you put a link to buy all of these items! It looks AMAZING! I made mine on a Amazon box lol 🤦🏻♂️ it served the purpose.
Ask and you shall receive. I updated the description box with links.
@@HandlebarWorkshops you’re the man! I love you!! Hahaha you just got a new subscriber! Thank you so much!
What s the highest incandencent lightbulb wattage?
I'm sure you can find all sorts of voltages online. Locally in a store, I could only find 200W.
Beautiful job and solid as, Brilliant. But one of the most important things that you didn't do was earth what looks like 2 metal enclosures. (Apologies if there plastic). Only 1 box would need done as the threaded joiner makes a good connection to the other. Nice 1 though.
I did, but I didn't call it out. I attached the green wire to the green lug on the side of the outlet which is connected to the metal ends were the screws are. The screws go into the square box which is connected to the circle box with a metal pipe. Thus all metal surfaces are electrically connected to the green (ground) wire.
Thanks for watching!
Does the current determine the amount of current you get?15 watts is not equal to 100 watts☝😁
I'm not sure what this means. Do you mean, does the WATTAGE determine how much current? Not really. You're essentially setting the bulb up in series with your equipment, thus splitting the power (P=IV) between the bulb and the equipment. The equipment will pull most of the power and the bulb gets very little. But if there is a short in the equipment, then the bulb gets all the power and limit the current to the short. Which should protect your equipment.
Should you need a bigger wattage bulb , theatre floodlights use 500 and 1000 Watt bulbs , but you will need to find or buy an E40 ( giant size ) Edison screw holder , may also be used as a VITAL temporary input ballast for the EHT transformer running many types of gas discharge tubes ( Neon , Mercury vapour etc .. ) ... also handy to safely identify the windings of a valuable but unmarked transformer ( without overheating it , due to wrong connection(s).... ) hope these tips are of use ..( ? ) ...
Excellent suggestions! Thank you!
She should be put in jail.
Thanks for watching!
Handy Women and Handy Persons. Really? SMFH