Top 9 Reasons Your MINI is Running Rough
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2024
- Reviewing all three generations of MINI Coopers and why your engine may not be running like it should.
My name is Mike and I run a MINI repair shop. These are the top reasons we see on a day to day basis.
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As an ex BMW service manager, i can confirm these engines are ver problematic, and temperamental, we used to have them in daily with rough running, tip, change oil regularly, every maximum every 5000 miles, only use 5-30 fully synthetic, use high grade fuel, BP or Shell, never cheap supermarket fuel, in my experience causes rough running, give it a blast now and then, to clear it out, this engine doesn't like town stop start running, and let it idle on return for 25-30 seconds before switching of on return. Great video, although fault's on these can be very hard to diagnose, accurately, sometimes you have to clear codes, drive it for 10 miles and then read codes again, to get correct fault. To sum up would i own one personally? Simply no, far to troublesome.
Rolling smooth right now my man! Thanks as always. 🏁🏁🏁
Thanks for this well-done video. Although my 2010 Clubman R56 runs well most days, your video will help me figure out why it still displays a check engine light. Have replaced MAS, coils, PVC and plugs recently...
Thank you.
Glad to see a new video! Thanks for video
Hope you enjoyed it!
Thank you the valuable information. Great video
My pleasure!
Thanks mike! Great video super helpful.👍🏻
I'm happy you enjoyed it. Thanks!
Excellent video, thanks. Just subscribed 🙂
Awesome, thank you!
Great video Mike, thanks 🖖🏼
Thank you I just subscribed! My uncle gave me my 2004 Mini Cooper as my fist car !!! And I just needed to know what maintenance things that I should keep up with Mini Cooper !!
Thanks for the sub!
@@MikeMDs thank you for the information!
Hello! Thank you, I just got my first MINI (R57 Cooper S) so I'm glad to have found your channel. Mine doesn't surge or anything, it's just not as smooth at idle as my old 2009 2.0-litre MX5. No idea if this is just what these cars are like! I bought it from a MINI specialist and it went to a MINI dealer for an initial scope so I guess they'd have scanned OBD etc if there was anything obvious.
Subscribed anyhow!
Welcome aboard!
Your pcv valve might be fault, simply check the pcv hoes to find oil residue. Faulty pcv valve may effect smooth idle and you may notice some white smoke 💨
yours is the best second gen mini video I have seen. I’m working on a 2013 coupe s w 118k miles that misses over 3000 rpm only. it’s my sisters & she drives slow & maintained this car at mini. otherwise it runs perfect & starts up perfect w a smooth idle. no smoke out the exhaust. I do have an engine light. I did the 4 ignition packs & front vvt today. I’ll pull the plugs tomorrow & do the rear vvt & i’ll let you know. the oil level looks high to me on the dip stick & mini just changed the oil. it’s above the little hole on the dip stick.
Thanks for watching and the feedback. As far as your issue is concerned. Do you know the fault description for the check engine light?
Thank you for sharing this information. I have a 2017 Clubman S with 53K miles and it is starting to exhibit wear. The latest is a strange intermittent vibration or rattle when running on uneven roads or small bumps. Feels like something is loose maybe. I also get a small vibration when idling but not at speed. Any tips for troubleshooting? Cheers! 🍻
Hi there, my 2009 mini cooper, has been having oil problems lately, and more recently its idl gets so low when at park or at a traffic light that thr car turns off but then a second later starts again.is there anything you would recommend? Are there any oil addictives that would help? Brilliant video, thanks so much
On my 2014 Mini Cooper S, I only oftentimes get rough idle at startup...but only for no more than 15 seconds or so. Within that 15 seconds, it sometimes feels like it's about to shut off for about 1 second but then always comes back to idling normal for however long I sit there. Driving and subsequent stop lights are perfectly smooth regardless.
No codes at all but tracking the misfire counts, I get about 1 misfire per minute from each of the 4 cylinders but not at the same time. Such is the case both before and after changing the spark plugs/ignition coils.
If the vehicle has ever been overheated or ran very low on oil. it can cause a low compression situation on cold start. It's hard to say what the issue is without seeing it.
Also a faulty high pressure fuel pump can cause this. Especially it its an extended crank start. If the live data of the fault shows low fuel pressure on the rail below 6 kpa or BAR. Then it's likely a high pressure fuel pump on its way out.
@@MikeMDs thanks so much for the detailed response! Understood on the fact that you'd have to see it but I'll add further context for the record.
76k miles when I got it about a year ago, 92k now. Carfax showed a well-maintained history, but my mechanic just so happened to have seen the car before. The fuel pump assembly (in the gas tank) went out on the previous owner; they merely tapped it and got it working again but the owner didn't want them to replace it. That said, my understanding of the owner leads me to believe that the owner likely replaced that fuel pump himself.
During my year of ownership, no overheating and never ever low on oil. Great fuel efficiency as long as I behave lol. Replaced ignition coils are Eldor. STP's intake valve cleaner used a couple of times with great improvement to throttle response each time but the effects fade within days (to a less spirited albeit normal driving experience); likewise with Techron/Sea Foam in the tank. Walnut Blasting of the intake valves finally scheduled for December 9th - presuming the previous owner never did it, and the amount of carbon deposits is just enough to affect initial idling but not so much that the computer can't correct for it (assuming).
Plan to see what the results of the walnut blasting does then do whatever's needed if need be. Wanna avoid the expense of thorough diagnosis as long as it doesn't get worse, hopeful that carbon deposits is the main culprit. Most often, the initial rough idle isn't that bad...just enough to be noticeable.
Nice. The carbon blast will definitely help on those little stumbles at idle. Best of luck.
Dirty throttle body or carbon build up, start cleaning ur throttle body
Hello! Thanks for the video! I have a Mini Countryman sd 2012. The problem I have is rough idle or at low speed, when I stop at red light. But it isn’t consistent, it may not happen for a month and then it happens 3 days straight. What I do most of times is I set it to Parking mode (P) and the engine shakes are not as rough or they stop completely. Also there is no engine fault light in computer, so no mechanic could fix the issue yest (2 years).Thanks in advance! Subscribed!!!
Did you fix it? Try vanos, oil filter and check timing chain tensioner is the new longer type.
@@izzzzzz6never did! Ended up selling the car 😅
In other words. Welcome to a world of pain. Apparently on the R56 the chain tensioner was never long enough. Make sure you get a longer one when replacing.
I changed oil filter which removed noisy low rpm problem but after 200km it was running super rough again. I'm going to try cleaning the vanos. If i put my foot down it will run good at high accelerations but it is laggy and a bit lumpy and noisy at low rpm. Feels like oil starvation around crank tensioner and vanos. R56
Hey, I gave a 2011 mini cooper countryman all4 and it gives me codes but no check engine light and it goes into limp mode when I drive it. It also takes a couple of seconds to turn on and I have already changed the spark plugs and ignition coils. Any ideas? Thank you
not one mention of carbon build up on intake valves, which is the biggest reason they run rough from my experience
The early turbo engines in the second gen do have carbon issues. The n18 engine solved that with valvetronic. I'm in SoCal. We very rarely see carbon buildup issues. Maybe it is the fuel in our region.
@@MikeMDs Valvetronic is for variable valve timing, has nothing to do with the intake valves and carbon reduction.
@@jdhall420 VANOS is for variable valve timing. Valvetronic is for variable valve lift. Carbon buildup issue was solved with Valvetronic. Same with the BMW N55 engine.
@@MikeMDs well not according to BMW whom i go to for my car. Not in the n18 n16 or n14
@@MikeMDs got a source i can see? I am a subaru guy and this is my 1st Mini and if you are right and BMW are misinforming me than i will seek another mechanic for the bigger stuff, i handle the basics myself.
Thanks for the clear, direct suggestions. 2013 r55 purchased at 59k original miles two days ago, no rough idle at purchase, two days later rough idle at start up and traffic lights and missing while driving. I'm going to scan it now that it is showing a check engine light and probably pull the plugs and possibly purchase a genuine min vanos solenoid for install. Anything special to keep in mind when replacing vanos solenoid, other than checking for leaks, as you said? Reset on anything after replacement? thx and if you were on the east coast...haha
It depends on the faults you pull. If a misfire , then start with replacing coil and plug on that cylinder.
I’ve been struggling with my mini 2012 S for about a year now with severe loss is power… I’ve done a lot to figure it out….changed gas filter, replaced gas pump, replaced injectors, replaced upper and lower O2 sensors, replaced mass airflow sensor, replaced the ignition coil plus all the basic stuff like air filter, spark plugs and quarterly oil changes….one thing to note was there was a significant improvement when I replaced the O2 sensors….but truthfully I’m at my wits end.
We have seen the catalytic converters melt in rare cases. We have done two this year. One on an S and one on a non-S. Both second Gen MINI's. We use a bore scope through the O2 sensor hole to inspect. Additionally Your turbo may be weak, or turbocharger vacuum actuation components.
I have a 2010 R56S, I highly recommend checking the cleanliness of your intake valves. Mine got coked up and caused a huge reduction in power and generally ran crappy. I walnut blasted the intake valves myself and it was like a new car after.
hey Mike good video.
running a 2007 cooper d. slight misfire on start up but this engine keeps surging chucking out smoke. not sure if this is an injector problem or a dpf fault which occasionally shows on dashboard. have changed a few sensors but not dtc's showing on scanner. egr changed plus maf sensor and a few others. a clue would be very helpful. cant seem to get to the bottom of it so any heads up would be gratefully received . Ian
check PCV
Hi Mike , that was a really nice video . Thank you for your nice work.
I have a 2009 mini cooper base model. SOMETIMES , not always, when it's cold, it doesn't idle , I have to have the foot on the gas to keep it running. Also when it does that, once it goes off, it gets hard to start back again. It doesn't misfires. It does run a bit rough , No smoke from the exhaust. The check engine light is on and from the car a got a " increased emissions " code. What do you think on that ? Thank you for your time.
Hi thanks. It's hard to know without seeing the codes. But a few wild guesses ; A large air leak in the induction or crankcase system, fuel tank vent valve stuck open causing fuel vapors to enter the combustion chamber, or a faulty fuel pump.
@@MikeMDs today I saw water came out of the exhaust. The weird thing is that is doesn't do it all the time, this morning worked fine, in the afternoon no idle. I had I feeling that was going lean too.
Dirty throttle body may cause this, worse scenario is carbon build up intake manifold & valves
When you say rubber diaphragm in the valve cover would you be talking about the valve cover gasket? My mini doesn't have any codes but still has a choppy idle that goes up and down while not driving. Last codes i got were for O2 sensor. I suspect it might be a vacuum leak of some sort.
Not the valve cover gasket, but the built in PCV diaphragm.
You will have to decipher what kind of o2 sensor codes you have.
Mr Mike!
Hope all is well.
Couple of questions on a 2006 mini cooper s with 135,000 miles.
What effects will it cause the performance of the mini if the oil is switched from 5w-30 to 5w-40? What oil weight would you recommend?
I just replaced the throttle. I used ignition method by pressing the gas pedal for 30 seconds & then releasing for another 30 seconds. Not sure if this did the throttle adaptation. Would you say this works or does it need to be done with an ob2?
Please advise and thank you for your time!
Thicker oil is not advised unless it has very high mileage 150K + and you are having oil consumption issues meaning loss of oil through engine combustion and visibly noted out the tail pipe. Thicker oil will increase piston ring sealing and help prevent the valve guide seals from leaking oil. it will increase lower RPM torque due to better ring sealing but reduce performance in the mid and higher RPM range due to pumping losses. The down side is it will reduce overall engine efficiency and fuel mileage. If it is in a colt climate then it is definitely not recommended.
If you feel like you want to experiment. Try doing half in 5-40 and increase ratio as desired.
Im not sure if that will reset the adaptations of the throttle.
I;ve only used the Software to do that.
I felt this video down in my core
This is very informative Mike. On a different note I need your professional advise. MY R56 Base cooper 2011 dome light does not come on when I open the door, this includes the lights under the driver and passenger door, as well as those under the clutch and brake pedals, yet the reading lights, the rear light comes on when you open the door inclusive of the one in the glove compartment. What could be the issue? I checked the fuse and its fine . How can I resolve this issue... Will appreciate the feedback. Chabwe
Thats a good one. It would have to be diagnosed in person. Is is only with the drivers door ? or both?
@@MikeMDs both doors
I was wondering how the automatic transmissions hold up in the mini? I'm thinking of buyihg a 2008-2010 Clubman as an around town grocery getter. Thanks Mike!
The transmissions are reliable. As far as the thermostat options. I'm not sure if the dealer supplies different temp ranges. I'd shy against aftermarket. They are unreliable as they are plastic.
These cars have extremely reliable aisin6 (Toyota) automatic transmission but you guys in states believe that they are life long oil. BMW lost a class action lawsuit. Change ur transmission oil every 35k miles 🖖🏼
My wits end. 08 s, multi cyl. misfire at idle, car runs great other than that. Changed plugs, replaced 1 coil pack(misfire readings about even on all cyl.) Noticed alot of crankcase vacuum so changed valve cover. Found distroyed upper timing chain guide, picked pieces out of valve area, pulled oil pan cleaned pump and pick up and changed oil again. replaced maf. Cleaned and tested VANOS. pulled and inspected vacuum tubes. runs rougher when propane interduced. Checked harmonic balancer and mounts. Still stumbling at idle and excessive crankcase vacuum has me stumped. Any thoughts would be great
Did you try smoke testing for any vacuum leaks? If it is an S model some leaks are hard to find.
Hello Mike,
I need some help here. Just did a rebuild of the head. Also did an adaptation of the DME. My 10 Mini cooper S is running rough. Can't even rev it. I'm getting the following message despite putting a new throttle body in it. Could you shed some light.
2B0B Throttle-valve potentiometer 1 / 2 faulty
2B02 Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
2B06 Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
2B22 Throttle-valve actuator, closing spring test
2B6C Intake-manifold pressure sensor, electric
2B6D Intake-manifold pressure sensor, electric
2883 Waste gate valve, activation
Thanks Dee
After clearing these faults do they come back right away?
Maybe a piece of the wiring harness is pinched in between something. Or loose ground. If the harness is okay then it sounds like a bad DME.
I just purchased a 2007 Mini Cooper S to commute back and forth to work. The timing chain was just replaced a few hundred miles ago (100,500) and the car was running fine until this morning when it started idling very bad. The check engine light came on so I checked the codes. They were P0300,P0301.P0302.P0304 and P0012. Also my brakes are not working the best. Any idea? Thanks!!
You could have a bad vacuum pump. Its a good idea to replace it if it is original as they can cause major engine failure if they seize .
Hello! I have a Cooper S r52 convertible, I notice the gas pedal has less pressure now and to get a good rev I’ll have to push the pedal almost all the way down, any suggestions??? I’ll appreciate thank you !
Hmm, hard to say. Any warning lights on?
Hi there Mike, I have a super duper important question! I have a 2009 MINI Cooper Base 1.6L 4cylinder NON TURBO. I'm at a loss right now and don't know what to do. My vehicle runs rough at idle and will slowly decrease to about 600 rpms, it even struggles at accelerating and quivers a little when I let off the gas too. What could this be? I have new ignition coils and o2 sensors and a brand new Catalytic converter
Hello. It could be many things. You will need to diagnose based off of the fault code description. Or take it to a specialist.
2013 Paceman. Power surges felt when going up a long hill. Will feel like I'm moving my foot up and down on the accelerator when I'm keeping it steady. Occurs constantly. Feels like I'm being pushed from behind. Idles smoothly. No engine lights. Recently had timing chain and belts replaced. Made it to 140K miles before needing this. Replaced air mass meter boot as well which improved overall performance. Anyone have any ideas?
It’s a faulty camshaft (edit: I meant crankshaft position sensor) another classic mini problem, it takes 15 minutes to replace
@@3dproje Thank you! Much appreciated.
Hello I have a 2016 mini 3rd gen I just went to dealer and have a oil change and they change the spark plug now running an issue it say drivetrane malfunction and misfire but they just change the spark plug
It's hard to say without seeing it. It could be a bad ignition coil.
Thanks for the video
Currently having issues with 2007 Cooper, on start from cold starts fine, runs fine up until thermostat opens then rough idle, code cylinder 2 miss fire, chasing this around the houses, as the engine is misfiring if you pull a camshaft sensor plug engine will drop into limp and run smooth, reading data vvt gears start irratic numbers, implide oil pressure issues to gears, replaced 2 x solenoid, oil rings on cams main crank bearings new oil, filter coil packs plugs, chain and guides I am 35 years in this trade with lots of experience of all vehicles, I am sure it can't be a mechanical fault as it will run spot on as soon as you drop into limp and lock the the gears, no car has had me beat but this is getting close any ideas? Thsnks
Dang thats a tough one. Just a guess but it sounds like an engine control unit. But food for thought. It could be a slightly burnt valve on cylinder 2 as when you put it in limp mode it changes the valve timing/overlap, maybe enough to find that sweet spot for that valve not to affect the running issue too much. The erratic vvt readings may just be the engine control module attempting to correct the issue in real time and may not be something to focus on. Hard to say. Best of luck.
Maybe see if you can get a bore scope with a horizontal side camera to see the valves in that cylinder .
@@MikeMDs thank you for your reply, I did have the head off as a exhaust seat came loose on no2, maybe your on to something, will check compression in different phases cheers
Hello Friend
Would a bad upper engine set off the EML on a 2006 mini cooper s? I see it is leaking from the upper mount
Hi. No it will only vibrate
@@MikeMDs Thank you Mike for your reply. The EML came on & off after i replaced the bypass valve & throttle body. Double checked everything. Maybe i didnt tightened/reinstalled the rubber boots on the intake correctly. So I took them apart & reinstalled again..EML no more. Now l need to replace the upper engine mount as well as the valve cover gasket.
Have a great day & i am now subscribed
Riddle me this ? :)) 2015 Cooper S (2.0L) erratic fast idle after warmed engine, in Drive/stopped /foot on brake/6spd auto trans. Goes away (idles normal) if I place the trans in M/S position ? Thanks for your time as able !
It could be an air leak, throttle body or bad vanos solenoid. Can you pull a fault code?
codes came back as (EVAP) purge valve and also Tank vent valve.. I've taken the EVAP purge valve off / cleaned then re-installed...works normal for a time then codes come back again with idles increase episodes as described... I stumbled upon if I move shifter to/M/S it drops the fast idle back to a steady slow again, but when shift back to 'D' (drive) it resumes the erratic up and down idle again.. seems related closely to the EVAP purge valve, may just try replace it.. thought I'd ask if you had another opinion.. Awesome channel and insights here, Thank You.
Have exactly the same problem on a mini chilli man r56 2008 non turbo.
Hello! I need your help! I just bought a second hand Mini Clubman and three weeks after the purchase a check engine light turned on. It seems that it might be a problem with the engine as the car smokes too much from the windpipe. I thought that it usually drives rough but might these two be connected? I had someone check it and they said that I need a new engine. But could it be that only the rubber you were talking about inside it has to be changed? I’m wondering if I should buy a new engine or just sell the car.
It’s 2008 I forgot to mention
Hi, does it run good and only smokes? When it does smoke, does it only smoke on acceleration after it has been idling for a while? Or does it smoke all the time?
Hey Mike
What would cause low engine vacuum on a 2010 Mini R56 turbo.
Low engine crankcase or intake vacuum can be caused by; a vacuum leak anywhere on the engine, a faulty crank case ventilation system, or faulty engine timing components. The turbocharger and brake booster has its own separate vacuum pump and does not use engine vacuum.
Hello, I have a 2011 mini Cooper countryman S it runs rough check engine light on halfway and my codes say misfire
Start changing with coils
2012 R56 JCW N14. 92k miles. well taken care of. I just bought it 4000 miles ago. Today - No CEL but is throwing a limp
Mode CC-ID 029 immediately upon starting. Let idle in my garage and it filled it with smelly blue exhaust smoke that isn’t normal from modern cars. Otherwise, car runs seemingly normal. Have driven it a few times since starting this limp mode… always limp mode but never any CEL.
HPFP runs between 650 and 1750 psi or so proportionally to load. The engine stutters when opening the oil cap while running… which makes me believe the pcv is at least sort of working. I’m at a loss. Any way to properly check pcv to rule it in or out? Thoughts?
I just can’t believe the software coders created a malfunction response (limp mode) without indicating the malfunction. incompetence.
I had cc-Id -029 prior to cleaning my intake valves
I should have added that it surges on acceleration....
Es bonito, es cierto pero no te asegura un buen futuro para tus hijos. Ahí solo el que es más fuerte y el que tiene más dinero sobrevive. Una vez sales del colegio no te asegura que vas a encontrar un buen trabajo, por eso la mayoría emigra a Estados Unidos.
Using 87 octane in the S models is not a good idea either
Sounds like a frickin liability this car