Watching that baler rock which they all have a tendency to do anyway especially when sitting still can likely be improved by better pin to drawbar fit. That 706 has enough beef to nullify most of that rocking with good pin fit. My guess is your drawbar hole is way is way bigger than it needs to be for the equipment you own. I picked up a a John Deere 2510 earlier this year and I ended up welding the drawbar hole as it had a huge hole in the drawbar and not from wear either. I sized it to fit my 9' Hesston mower conditioner co and the New Holland baler as those are the biggest implements I own. This really helped with the baler a rocking dance.
That baler looks like it has been well cared for. I think you are going to like it real well. Having the New Holland knotters will be a blessing if you ever need parts. 442 model number is getting towards the last of the balers that AC built so it will have more capacity that than them previous 2 balers you owned by quite a bit I do believe - although admittingly less than newer ones from JD or New Holland. Regardless that 706 is going to make a wonderful baling tractor simply due to the unmatched selection of gear speeds that will go slow enough compared to almost any other tractor from nearly any era.
It is in remarkable shape for its age. I knew the original owner, he hardly ever used it because he hired his hay round baled for years, and he didn't do much hay to begin with.
For those of us without a tedder (or a working tedder in my case as I do have a 2-star junk pile special that needs fixed). Using the rake to rake windrows a little earlier than usual is common practice. Once the windrow goes limp and settles and what is on top is dry Then use the tail of the rake to flippy the windrows. This process is even outlined in my old JD 594 basket rake operators manual and they call it it "making hay the John Deere way" to retain color and yet get it dry. Rakes that make loose fluffy windrows are better for this task than known rope makers like the common New Holland 56 and 256 and other brands that are made similar which are all great rakes to use to feed a baler with but not so much for getting hay dry as they rope the windrows so bad. Each time you add a pass with them more roping which does not promote drying.
If you like Kroil for a penetrating lube you'll really like Open&Shut or Rusty OS by Drummond. For chain lube I've used lots of different ones and they've all pretty much been as good as the next.
Watching that baler rock which they all have a tendency to do anyway especially when sitting still can likely be improved by better pin to drawbar fit. That 706 has enough beef to nullify most of that rocking with good pin fit. My guess is your drawbar hole is way is way bigger than it needs to be for the equipment you own. I picked up a a John Deere 2510 earlier this year and I ended up welding the drawbar hole as it had a huge hole in the drawbar and not from wear either. I sized it to fit my 9' Hesston mower conditioner co and the New Holland baler as those are the biggest implements I own. This really helped with the baler a rocking dance.
Good unit, hope it performs well in the field. Regards from Down Under.
I hope so too. But we'll soon find out
That baler looks like it has been well cared for. I think you are going to like it real well. Having the New Holland knotters will be a blessing if you ever need parts. 442 model number is getting towards the last of the balers that AC built so it will have more capacity that than them previous 2 balers you owned by quite a bit I do believe - although admittingly less than newer ones from JD or New Holland. Regardless that 706 is going to make a wonderful baling tractor simply due to the unmatched selection of gear speeds that will go slow enough compared to almost any other tractor from nearly any era.
It is in remarkable shape for its age. I knew the original owner, he hardly ever used it because he hired his hay round baled for years, and he didn't do much hay to begin with.
For those of us without a tedder (or a working tedder in my case as I do have a 2-star junk pile special that needs fixed). Using the rake to rake windrows a little earlier than usual is common practice. Once the windrow goes limp and settles and what is on top is dry Then use the tail of the rake to flippy the windrows. This process is even outlined in my old JD 594 basket rake operators manual and they call it it "making hay the John Deere way" to retain color and yet get it dry. Rakes that make loose fluffy windrows are better for this task than known rope makers like the common New Holland 56 and 256 and other brands that are made similar which are all great rakes to use to feed a baler with but not so much for getting hay dry as they rope the windrows so bad. Each time you add a pass with them more roping which does not promote drying.
I don't have the roping issue with my 258 unless going to slow. Or if the material is to long. I have seen it happen though
If you like Kroil for a penetrating lube you'll really like Open&Shut or Rusty OS by Drummond. For chain lube I've used lots of different ones and they've all pretty much been as good as the next.
Bailers are a nightmare on two wheels . LOL
They can be