Once the cover is off and the spring is out you would need a holding fixture to hold the clutch and a spider removal tool to turn the spider off. The spider is threaded on, red loctited, and torqued to about 240ftlbs. Then that would give you access to the bearing.
I just changed my primary and now it’s grinding when I switch from reverse to toward and also that bearing isn’t spinning as fast as my older clutch any idea What my problem could be
Each color spring has a different rate to it. Also my spring colors are not the same as any other manufacture's spring rate it is just a way for us to identify them apart from our other springs we make.
You would change the primary spring and the weights in primary clutch and the secondary spring in the secondary clutch on the 800's. We off several different kits depending on your type of riding and tire size. You can check them out at www.epiperformance.com
Then we would recommend putting it on so you can read the letter from left to right being that is the industry standard and hope that whoever installed the belt belt before did it correctly.
On the splines on the inside of the clutch where the spring is held in we don't normally put grease there. Normally the clutch is a grease free so it doesn't get on the belt or clutches and cause belt slippage.
rick tuck Hi Rick, We use solid non adjustable weights in all of our atv/utv kits. Most of the ATV/UTV riders don't want to mess with the clutching, they want to put a set up in and go. Glad you like the videos. We will continue to make more of them as we go. Thanks!
If it just unthreaded on the center shaft you should be able to still use a puller inside of it but then will either need to use a impact on it to pop it off or thread the clutch back together enough to where you can hold it with a bar and then tighten puller to pop the back half off. Then once it is off you will need to bring to shop or get the correct tools to fully tighten it back together and use red or green loctite on it. If your clutch if actually broken then use a puller and an impact on it to get if off.
I have my belt off but don't see one of the two methods other secondary clutch's have to get the belt back on. Do i need to remove the primary to replace a belt?
There are some of the 800's that you have to fight the belt back on. You can take the primary off, that is the best for the belt. Most people either force it on like a bicycle chain and once you get it started enough you can push down hard on the belt which will open up the secondary clutch and loosen the belt to get it on the rest of the way.
I like your video. How many miles do you recommend this type of inspection? I do have the O.E.M. Shop manual. I do not have the compression tools you use. I have a 09 Polaris RZR 800 S and I'm very anal regarding its maintenance. I am also concerned about the O.E.M. air filter. I have a skirt cover over the paper filter and I keep good inspection/cleaning of the filter. I hope you can reply to my concerns. Thanks, Utah.
Clean clutches are happy clutches so the more you can inspect them and clean them the better your machine will run and the more money you will save in the long run. Depending our what conditions and how you ride 1000 miles is a good baseline. For some people that's two months and for some that might be three years of riding. It you ride in a lot of dust all the dust gets sucked through your clutches and will build up along with the normal belt ware dust. Or anytime you get water in your clutches you should clean them. Also anytime you change a belt make sure to clean everything well. For tools you would want the PCP-12 clutch puller to pull the primary clutch off the machine and the CCT510 allows you to disassemble the secondary spring and clutch.
I appreciate your response. I've never been in a position to have someone else to do work I myself can complete. That way I can be solely responsible of the results and I know it was done correctly. Also, I get more familiar with the machine. Thanks for your input. You did not respond regarding the drive belt, either stay with O.E.M. or after market? What about using a different air filter or kit? Thanks again, Utah
Belts will show ware several different ways. Mainly by stretching and wearing skinnier both hurt the overall performance. The EPI clutch kits are designed to work with the OEM belt or and of the EPI belts. Our Severe duty belt is our best belt and is designed to be a better, heavy duty belt compared to the stock belt. And in most cases is even cheaper then the OEM belt. We don't sell any air filters but with any air filter the key is inspection and making sure they are clean. I personally use a lot of K&n filters on my machines.
Hi Tony, it could be caused be several different things. Most common issues are an old belt or worn clutch/dirty clutches. I would clean your clutches really good, look for worn out bushings and rollers in both clutches. If everything seems good then I would replace the belt.
You would want to use the Mudder Clutch kit. It will give you a lot more low end and midrange power, faster backshift and throttle response and will grip the belt a lot more then your stock clutching. It will help make up for the power loss of adding the bigger tires. Hope that helps, let us know if you have any other questions.
You can order through EPI or if you have a local dealer you like to work with you can also order through them. We don't care where you get it as long as you use EPI!
I thank you for responses. I am the second owner (02/17/2012) of this RZR, with1518 miles at time of purchase. I purchased it from the Saint George, Utah Polaris (on 02/17/2-012), It had 810 original miles according to their records, when they took in as a trade. The dealer did a complete service at that time. During and prior to my pickup of the RZR, I was able to take photographs when they had the rear end taken apart to expose the engine. During their service, they recorded the brake wear, fronts 5.49/5.45, rear 6.81/7.04. From the original owner, It had been rolled onto its right side during some teenager usage, therefore Polaris, on their own accord, replaced various parts to clean it up before I made the purchase; upper bushing steering, Decal Right Side panel top, ASM RR rack, rear finder-painted, T. slver, bushing-upper steering, 1 IN, and ball-joint, seals-oil 2 each, long stud, right front tire and wheel and reflective corner Decals. They also, under complete service, replaced the drive belt, washer-clutch (2-each) Vespel, air intake filter and they used PL OW40 POL Synthetic oil. As of today I have 1906 miles on the odometer. I have used it for one trip approximately 100 miles then the other is just around B.L.M. land close to the house. Every time I come back from a ride, I remove the air cleaner filter, blow it out cleaning the cover and interior air box. I hope this isn't too much information for you to read, but I'm concerned being a first time owner and always been anal in keeping this machine clean as possible. I have even added some after market items; left/right side mirrors, changed two aluminum wheels and tires, top cover, rear plastic drop down window and rear soft cover made in Utah and have a street legal light/horn kit, yet to install. I have been checking the brakes visually. I also have seen a video to place cut strip spacers at each brake calipers to assist in keeping the braking noise at a minimum. I have greased ALL the grease fittings, using Polaris grease and maintained tire pressure at about 9-psi. I have heard NOT to torque the wheel nuts more than 60 pounds torque, yet the manual suggests 80. I hope you can assist me in identifying anything else I might be missing. Where is the BEST PRICE location to purchase the tools to remove the clutch units? I am a veteran on fixed income and do not have a lot of extra funds to spend. If necessary, I can provide my E-mail address to communicate. I do not want to reveal it within this venue. Thanks very much for your assistance, Jack, Utah
An older bideo, but this is definitely a good explanation of servicing RZR clutches and even checking/replacing belts. Thanks for sharing.
Great informative Video....Thank you for posting..
Once the cover is off and the spring is out you would need a holding fixture to hold the clutch and a spider removal tool to turn the spider off. The spider is threaded on, red loctited, and torqued to about 240ftlbs. Then that would give you access to the bearing.
45-47ftlb for the primary clutch and 15ftlb on the secondary clutch
Thx for the info
Also LOVE your vids! VERY VERY helpful! So thank you!
I just changed my primary and now it’s grinding when I switch from reverse to toward and also that bearing isn’t spinning as fast as my older clutch any idea What my problem could be
Each color spring has a different rate to it. Also my spring colors are not the same as any other manufacture's spring rate it is just a way for us to identify them apart from our other springs we make.
You mentioned cleaning the clutches... what is the best way to do that?
Very informative! Thank you..I heard people change out something in the clutch when they change out to bigger wheels and tires? What would that be?
You would change the primary spring and the weights in primary clutch and the secondary spring in the secondary clutch on the 800's. We off several different kits depending on your type of riding and tire size. You can check them out at www.epiperformance.com
if i need to remove a oneway bearing ? how pop of a spider from primary clutch?
Great video!! Quick question…what if you can’t remember the direction of the belt when you took it off?
Then we would recommend putting it on so you can read the letter from left to right being that is the industry standard and hope that whoever installed the belt belt before did it correctly.
what is the torque on both clutches?
what does the different color springs mean?
Is it recommended to grease the spline before reinstalling the driven so it's not running on there dry?
On the splines on the inside of the clutch where the spring is held in we don't normally put grease there. Normally the clutch is a grease free so it doesn't get on the belt or clutches and cause belt slippage.
Any reason for not using a quick clicker design for an ATV/UTV?
rick tuck Hi Rick, We use solid non adjustable weights in all of our atv/utv kits. Most of the ATV/UTV riders don't want to mess with the clutching, they want to put a set up in and go. Glad you like the videos. We will continue to make more of them as we go. Thanks!
What if you’re primary clutch comes apart when taking it off that the back of the primary clutch stays on the shaft what do you do
If it just unthreaded on the center shaft you should be able to still use a puller inside of it but then will either need to use a impact on it to pop it off or thread the clutch back together enough to where you can hold it with a bar and then tighten puller to pop the back half off. Then once it is off you will need to bring to shop or get the correct tools to fully tighten it back together and use red or green loctite on it. If your clutch if actually broken then use a puller and an impact on it to get if off.
I have my belt off but don't see one of the two methods other secondary clutch's have to get the belt back on. Do i need to remove the primary to replace a belt?
There are some of the 800's that you have to fight the belt back on. You can take the primary off, that is the best for the belt. Most people either force it on like a bicycle chain and once you get it started enough you can push down hard on the belt which will open up the secondary clutch and loosen the belt to get it on the rest of the way.
Thank you
Glad we could help!
Do they install any upgraded plastic slick washers on these anymore? I can't remember the name. Delwin maybe?
EPI doesn't use the washers with our kit. I believe Venom Products (Team Industries) might still sell them though.
I like your video. How many miles do you recommend this type of inspection? I do have the O.E.M. Shop manual. I do not have the compression tools you use. I have a 09 Polaris RZR 800 S and I'm very anal regarding its maintenance. I am also concerned about the O.E.M. air filter. I have a skirt cover over the paper filter and I keep good inspection/cleaning of the filter. I hope you can reply to my concerns.
Thanks, Utah.
Clean clutches are happy clutches so the more you can inspect them and clean them the better your machine will run and the more money you will save in the long run. Depending our what conditions and how you ride 1000 miles is a good baseline. For some people that's two months and for some that might be three years of riding. It you ride in a lot of dust all the dust gets sucked through your clutches and will build up along with the normal belt ware dust. Or anytime you get water in your clutches you should clean them. Also anytime you change a belt make sure to clean everything well. For tools you would want the PCP-12 clutch puller to pull the primary clutch off the machine and the CCT510 allows you to disassemble the secondary spring and clutch.
my. 2013 rzr 800 has a high pitch wine when rideing any solutions what it might be
normal. they all do it. I have had same noise since new. they way the gears are cut in the t case
maximus140ad thank god you told me this, mine does this and sometimes it’s louder than others
I appreciate your response. I've never been in a position to have someone else to do work I myself can complete. That way I can be solely responsible of the results and I know it was done correctly.
Also, I get more familiar with the machine.
Thanks for your input.
You did not respond regarding the drive belt, either stay with O.E.M. or after market?
What about using a different air filter or kit?
Thanks again, Utah
Belts will show ware several different ways. Mainly by stretching and wearing skinnier both hurt the overall performance. The EPI clutch kits are designed to work with the OEM belt or and of the EPI belts. Our Severe duty belt is our best belt and is designed to be a better, heavy duty belt compared to the stock belt. And in most cases is even cheaper then the OEM belt. We don't sell any air filters but with any air filter the key is inspection and making sure they are clean. I personally use a lot of K&n filters on my machines.
my raxor bucks when cold . What is the problem?
Hi Tony, it could be caused be several different things. Most common issues are an old belt or worn clutch/dirty clutches. I would clean your clutches really good, look for worn out bushings and rollers in both clutches. If everything seems good then I would replace the belt.
Is this process the same for a 2012 Polaris rzr 570??
its the same basic process. The clutches are easer to get to on the 570 and the secondary clutch is a little different.
Where do you get the clutch removal tool?
EPI sells all the clutch tools. www.epiperformance.com or 218-829-6036 The clutch puller for all the 800 RZR's is part number PCP-12. Thank you
I was concerned that the secondary clutch reinstall still had about 3/4" of spline showing on the housing on the outside?
You might have the clutch installed onto the machine backwards.
Blow out with Compressed air, then scotch brite the sheeve faces from inside to out in a straight line, then wipe off the sheeves with brake cleaner.
where can we get some of these special tools at?
EPI makes and sells them. Call us at 218-829-6036 or www.epiperformance.com Thank you!
whats the best kit for running 29.5 terminators on a 800 rzr ?
You would want to use the Mudder Clutch kit. It will give you a lot more low end and midrange power, faster backshift and throttle response and will grip the belt a lot more then your stock clutching. It will help make up for the power loss of adding the bigger tires. Hope that helps, let us know if you have any other questions.
any ideas of what the top speed might go down to
should stay within a few mph then what you are running with the stock clutching and the larger tires.
awesome do i order it from epi
You can order through EPI or if you have a local dealer you like to work with you can also order through them. We don't care where you get it as long as you use EPI!
I thank you for responses.
I am the second owner (02/17/2012) of this RZR, with1518 miles at time of purchase. I purchased it from the Saint George, Utah Polaris (on 02/17/2-012), It had 810 original miles according to their records, when they took in as a trade. The dealer did a complete service at that time.
During and prior to my pickup of the RZR, I was able to take photographs when they had the rear end taken apart to expose the engine.
During their service, they recorded the brake wear, fronts 5.49/5.45, rear 6.81/7.04. From the original owner, It had been rolled onto its right side during some teenager usage, therefore Polaris, on their own accord, replaced various parts to clean it up before I made the purchase; upper bushing steering, Decal Right Side panel top, ASM RR rack, rear finder-painted, T. slver, bushing-upper steering, 1 IN, and ball-joint, seals-oil 2 each, long stud, right front tire and wheel and reflective corner Decals. They also, under complete service, replaced the drive belt, washer-clutch (2-each) Vespel, air intake filter and they used PL OW40 POL Synthetic oil.
As of today I have 1906 miles on the odometer. I have used it for one trip approximately 100 miles then the other is just around B.L.M. land close to the house. Every time I come back from a ride, I remove the air cleaner filter, blow it out cleaning the cover and interior air box.
I hope this isn't too much information for you to read, but I'm concerned being a first time owner and always been anal in keeping this machine clean as possible.
I have even added some after market items; left/right side mirrors, changed two aluminum wheels and tires, top cover, rear plastic drop down window and rear soft cover made in Utah and have a street legal light/horn kit, yet to install.
I have been checking the brakes visually. I also have seen a video to place cut strip spacers at each brake calipers to assist in keeping the braking noise at a minimum.
I have greased ALL the grease fittings, using Polaris grease and maintained tire pressure at about 9-psi.
I have heard NOT to torque the wheel nuts more than 60 pounds torque, yet the manual suggests 80.
I hope you can assist me in identifying anything else I might be missing.
Where is the BEST PRICE location to purchase the tools to remove the clutch units?
I am a veteran on fixed income and do not have a lot of extra funds to spend.
If necessary, I can provide my E-mail address to communicate. I do not want to reveal it within this venue.
Thanks very much for your assistance,
Jack, Utah
you know if the belt of a rzr 800 fits a 800s 2010
Normally the 800 RZR S uses a different belt then the 800 RZR.
If you give us a call 218-829-6036 and talk to us you can get a little bit quicker answer I try to get on here as much as time allows.
Thanks
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