If you have a RWD Dakota (2 wheel drive) front hub/bearing may simply be bolted onto steering knuckle from behind with 3 x 21 mm (13/16) bolts. Remove these and tap hub out from behind with a 3lb hammer, prying as necessary from front with a tire iron or flat screwdriver. Use WD40 liberally also.
Hope you got a good one. Mine's been passed the 300,000 mile mark. I think it's time for valve train checkup and a potential top end rebuilt. That shouldn't be too terribly expensive since the engine shouldn't need to be pulled.
@@RichpinTv I had to take 4x4 bearings and shaft out to get to ball joints on a 2006 ram 2500. looked less rusty than that but anything that needed to come lose came lose with a pow and a cloud of dust and rust. The hub nut, the hub assembly and I had to use a special puller tool for that one. Then pressing the ball joints out themselves. Still prefer the press on and off style over the hot rivet style.
Thanks. The wiggles @4:25 is exactly what happened to my baby. O4 SXT Hopefully 35mm it as I have to buy one. Then I'll have it to do the other side when I do the other side next month. And then both tie rods in or out or both sides probably going to end up getting new shocks and everything else that goes on underneath there LOL. Good video thanks so much
@@mikes8989 now I have to figure out if it's easier to change the ball joint or the control arm and the ball joint? As apparently they can be purchased as a set ball joint ready to go control arm on or I can press out the ball joint shouldn't be a problem 🙏 Have to get in there and take a look for some more UA-cam videos you guys are awesome 😇
What’s the part called with the spline that you’re sliding the hub onto. I’m stripping down and painting the knuckles, and it’s missing. The knuckles came from junkyard with dust covers but no bearing with what I call a spindle. Thanks!
You should use blue Locktite when reinstalling the caliper mount and the caliper bolts 🔩 to the mount. There's a lot of heating and cooling action along with vibration on the disc brake assembly. The temperature expansion of the metal along with vibration tends to loosen brake assembly hardware. The blue allows the bolts to still be easily loosed when needing service later on. Don't use red!
The Bearing is a press fit , one piece a set of 2 60 bucks Ebay , If you change one you may as well change both and check the control arm bushings tie rod ends sway bar upper lower ball joints . Im fixing to replace everything on the front end even the Rack Pinion . 500 bucks do it yourself 220 thousand miles on the parts I say its time to replace it all . The Guy I got it from did 1 lower ball joint and a tie rod . I understand being broke , but do it all not just the bad part .
@@JCcanU ya, I feel like I should've done that when I did all that work with the ball joints on the 2006 ram 2500 4x4. But really even though it sure looked a bit rusty, the play in everything else was fine.
Question for ya if you still run this channel and see this, would this be the source of a loud continuous chirping sound like a cricket when driving over 25mph
Great video. Very helpful. I have a 2011 Dodge Dakota, 4 wheel drive. I was changing my front passenger bearing hub assembly. When it came time to pull off the Hub, I was not able to. When I look at the shaft there is a metal circular ring around the shaft. I have no idea how to remove it. It is recessed about 1 1/2 inches along the shaft. It is behind the 35mm nut. The drivers side does not have it. Any thoughts as to what it is and how to remove it. Chrysler dealership are of no help unless I bring the truck to them. Thanks - Rick
Installed new hubs. Torque to #185. Wheel bearings went bad right away. Paid shop for new wheel hub installation. You HAVE TO TORQUE THE PI55 out of nut. Heavy duty impact hammer installation.
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota Turbo thats making a rubbing roaring sound on the front left tire! Does anyone know what this is???? Help would be appreciated, I'm missing work because of this!
Ryan Howard did you ever figure this out? Mine is doing it also, I think I didn’t torque the wheel bearing spindle but properly when I installed it. I literally went over everything else and I’m pretty sure that’s what it is.
Ok great my 2005 dodge Dakota 4x4 has only 46k on it. Its whooping on the driver side an shaking the truck. LoL I just replaced the shocks an inner an outer tie rods an steering dampener an put on a new dual exhaust on my Fiero when it rain it pours LOL I am new on 4x4 's thanks for responding 😁
Hey there, i have a 2003 dakota 3.9, I have ABS light when I start the engine but I don't see any wired on my hub.. any clue whats going on? maybe the previous owner did not put legit hubs?
Either put the tire back on and on the ground for weight,(remove center cap on rim for access. Or put a large pry bar in between the lug stems and let it hit the ground
@@emsvision Thanks for sharing your tips! Would it cause any issue if loosening off the 35mm locknut in the first place while the tire is on the ground before removing anything else?
@@yougoog1 I leave the brake disc in place and caliper. I'll put a screw driver into the brake disc and rotate until it stops up against the caliper. Depending on how rusted on it is holding the brakes might not be enough.
@@commandercody38 thanks for your tip! The nut is stuck badly. One 1/2” drive socket extension has been broken. I bought another one, but have not tried it out yet, I am afraid it would break. I am thinking to use heat to loose it. I already used penetrating oil, but did not help.
The spindle is stationary with the trucks frame. It doesn't rotate ! At least it better not rotate. If it's two wheel drive. The hub rotates around the spindle on the bearings inside the hub assembly. It doesn't matter if it's on the ground but it's best to do it without the weight of the truck on it. Especially when installing it. Just make sure you have good support holding truck securely on stands. It's a lot of force 185 ft lbs. You could possibly knock a vehicle off the stands if you have a shady setup.
I believe the 4x4 front bearing on dakotas is different, yours bolts to the hub instead of just sliding over the spindle and being held on with the axle nut. With that said, the axle nut is kinda the last resort of keeping your wheel on when you have a severe bearing failure, so I don't think anyone can give you a definitive yes
These "mechanics" told me the rack and pinion is what's causing the slop/play when my wheel and tire moves side to side... like the play you had when you put the hub back on to show us lol... i'll be doing this to my dodge soon and I have all wheel ABS so I got the hubs with the teeth on the back for the sensor I guess. Good video and wow the metal parts look very crusty lol.
+Eslamizar well there are other parts that cause slop in your steering moving the tire left to right or back n fourth - a bearing could be one of the issues like this but there are also other steering parts that can be worn or make slop - inner and outer tire rods or just the rack and pinion itself could be bad - which the inner and outer tie rods are apart of your rack and pinion
Man. The OCD in me watching that shinny new hub going on that rusty spindle, brakes, just makes me want to tear down the whole ride and sand blast it. Lol. Man I hate rust.
I know. I'm surprised my truck doesn't look like that. It's bad but not like that. Still original paint on the frame. Some parts I put on haven't aged while some parts seem to instantly age to the truck's age but then slow down to the trucks rate of aging. It's weird.
Looking at all the rusted metal parts under that vehicle i thought it hadnt been serviced or looked after and that bearing would be rusted solid, im supprised. That socket was close 34.93mm :-) Ooow "This video contains no cruelty to panal tools in any way" lol :D
zx8401ztv I did not remember how rusted things were as i had done this job last fall and did you see how the guy was fighting with the caliper trying to remove it....lol
richpin06a Yes i did lol, i was waiting for the crowbar to appear, the panal tools big brother :D Ooow hope you dont mind me asking, have you had any problems with your mastech all singing and dancing multimeter?, im thinking i may part with some pennies for one :D
zx8401ztv So far the only thing that has happen occasionally is when you turn the meter from off to lets say voltage nothing appears on the display so i turn it off then back to voltage and it is fine.
richpin06a Sounds like you caught it asleep lol, no its possibly an imperfect contact on the switch, dont sound serious, still sounds worth the pennies :D
You sure the Nut is 185 FP , see other Video it is 150 FP . I was looking at my wheel upper lower control arms I have this bearing , not the 3 bolt bearing . maybe that is why its 185#
They are pre-lubed already inside. You might want to put a little grease on the spindle after cleaning it. So the rubber lip seal is lubricated. It will heat up and ruin the seal if it's bare shiny steel against the rubber, as the rubber will try to "grip" the steel surface.
They make special pullers for when they're needed. Sure needed them for the 4x4 front hub assembly to then take out the u-joint and front axle assembly to get to the ball joints.
This was an excellent video. Very quiet, great camera angles, easy to watch, and a great personality. Thank you
If you have a RWD Dakota (2 wheel drive) front hub/bearing may simply be bolted onto steering knuckle from behind with 3 x 21 mm (13/16) bolts. Remove these and tap hub out from behind with a 3lb hammer, prying as necessary from front with a tire iron or flat screwdriver. Use WD40 liberally also.
Great video! Just bought a 2000 Dakota, will check the bearings and brakes this weekend, You The Man! thanks again.
pl
2007 doge Dakota repair bearing on four buy four
Hope you got a good one. Mine's been passed the 300,000 mile mark. I think it's time for valve train checkup and a potential top end rebuilt. That shouldn't be too terribly expensive since the engine shouldn't need to be pulled.
Hey I know it's been a while but was the hub secured on by the 3 21mm bolts or did it just slide off after the big hub nut?
Great video. I'm surprised how easy the bearing came off given the amount of rust. You got lucky. Keep the repair videos comin'.
Pet Rock's Garage I was thinking the same thing when i saw the rust....what am i in for but it turned out fine.
@@RichpinTv I had to take 4x4 bearings and shaft out to get to ball joints on a 2006 ram 2500. looked less rusty than that but anything that needed to come lose came lose with a pow and a cloud of dust and rust. The hub nut, the hub assembly and I had to use a special puller tool for that one. Then pressing the ball joints out themselves. Still prefer the press on and off style over the hot rivet style.
When tightening spindle nut to 185 ft. Lbs. do you back off 1/4 turn like on one with castle nut and cotter pin?
No. It bottoms out and has the proper clearance built into the assembly. That's why it just uses a Nylock nut and no cotter pin.
Are you sure that the spindle wasn't worn or damaged? the new hub went on a little too easily.
can you make a list of tools needed for this?
Thanks. The wiggles @4:25 is exactly what happened to my baby. O4 SXT
Hopefully 35mm it as I have to buy one. Then I'll have it to do the other side when I do the other side next month. And then both tie rods in or out or both sides probably going to end up getting new shocks and everything else that goes on underneath there LOL. Good video thanks so much
Mine was a 32
@@mikes8989 now I have to figure out if it's easier to change the ball joint or the control arm and the ball joint? As apparently they can be purchased as a set ball joint ready to go control arm on or I can press out the ball joint shouldn't be a problem 🙏 Have to get in there and take a look for some more UA-cam videos you guys are awesome 😇
you're the man same problem exact to the point awesome mine is 35 mm as well see lots of vids using 36mm. very good my man
What’s the part called with the spline that you’re sliding the hub onto. I’m stripping down and painting the knuckles, and it’s missing. The knuckles came from junkyard with dust covers but no bearing with what I call a spindle. Thanks!
thank this was very helpful and I will change mines soon thank you./97 Dakota V6.2WD.
I'm so glad this is an easy job
Hoping you can tell me the torque specs for the 21 mm bolts. Thank you.
you ever find out?
@@cordmiller679 No lol
If you are referring to the (21mm?) bolts which hold the caliper-holders in place, torque spec would be around 40 lb/ft.
You should use blue Locktite when reinstalling the caliper mount and the caliper bolts 🔩 to the mount. There's a lot of heating and cooling action along with vibration on the disc brake assembly. The temperature expansion of the metal along with vibration tends to loosen brake assembly hardware. The blue allows the bolts to still be easily loosed when needing service later on. Don't use red!
Don't have to grease it at all?
Can you replace the bearings in the hub without having to buy a new hub?
no and why would you want two there 25.oo a peace and lot eazy ebay
The Bearing is a press fit , one piece a set of 2 60 bucks Ebay , If you change one you may as well change both and check the control arm bushings tie rod ends sway bar upper lower ball joints . Im fixing to replace everything on the front end even the Rack Pinion . 500 bucks do it yourself 220 thousand miles on the parts I say its time to replace it all . The Guy I got it from did 1 lower ball joint and a tie rod . I understand being broke , but do it all not just the bad part .
@@JCcanU ya, I feel like I should've done that when I did all that work with the ball joints on the 2006 ram 2500 4x4. But really even though it sure looked a bit rusty, the play in everything else was fine.
Question for ya if you still run this channel and see this, would this be the source of a loud continuous chirping sound like a cricket when driving over 25mph
How many hours would this take
What year is this truck?
Great video. Very helpful. I have a 2011 Dodge Dakota, 4 wheel drive. I was changing my front passenger bearing hub assembly. When it came time to pull off the Hub, I was not able to. When I look at the shaft there is a metal circular ring around the shaft. I have no idea how to remove it. It is recessed about 1 1/2 inches along the shaft. It is behind the 35mm nut. The drivers side does not have it. Any thoughts as to what it is and how to remove it. Chrysler dealership are of no help unless I bring the truck to them. Thanks - Rick
Installed new hubs. Torque to #185. Wheel bearings went bad right away.
Paid shop for new wheel hub installation.
You HAVE TO TORQUE THE PI55 out of nut. Heavy duty impact hammer installation.
What year Dakota was this
Why don't they pack bearings with freezes?
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota Turbo thats making a rubbing roaring sound on the front left tire! Does anyone know what this is???? Help would be appreciated, I'm missing work because of this!
Ryan Howard did you ever figure this out? Mine is doing it also, I think I didn’t torque the wheel bearing spindle but properly when I installed it. I literally went over everything else and I’m pretty sure that’s what it is.
Hubb spindle bearing
I have a 2005 slt dodge Dakota 4x4 does a bad hub make a thumping sound an feel wobbly an shake that side?
+Dungeons Dragons If the wheel bearing get real bad it can make a thumping sound.
Ok great my 2005 dodge Dakota 4x4 has only 46k on it. Its whooping on the driver side an shaking the truck. LoL I just replaced the shocks an inner an outer tie rods an steering dampener an put on a new dual exhaust on my Fiero when it rain it pours LOL I am new on 4x4 's thanks for responding 😁
Hey there, i have a 2003 dakota 3.9, I have ABS light when I start the engine but I don't see any wired on my hub.. any clue whats going on? maybe the previous owner did not put legit hubs?
you might have like i do on my 98, which is rear ABS only, prevents the bed from hopping when braking
Hi friends. I'm really curious...how were you able to prevent hub/bearing from rotating when you loosened off the 35 mm locknut?
Either put the tire back on and on the ground for weight,(remove center cap on rim for access. Or put a large pry bar in between the lug stems and let it hit the ground
@@emsvision Thanks for sharing your tips! Would it cause any issue if loosening off the 35mm locknut in the first place while the tire is on the ground before removing anything else?
@@yougoog1 I leave the brake disc in place and caliper. I'll put a screw driver into the brake disc and rotate until it stops up against the caliper. Depending on how rusted on it is holding the brakes might not be enough.
@@commandercody38 thanks for your tip! The nut is stuck badly. One 1/2” drive socket extension has been broken. I bought another one, but have not tried it out yet, I am afraid it would break. I am thinking to use heat to loose it. I already used penetrating oil, but did not help.
The spindle is stationary with the trucks frame. It doesn't rotate ! At least it better not rotate. If it's two wheel drive. The hub rotates around the spindle on the bearings inside the hub assembly. It doesn't matter if it's on the ground but it's best to do it without the weight of the truck on it. Especially when installing it. Just make sure you have good support holding truck securely on stands. It's a lot of force 185 ft lbs. You could possibly knock a vehicle off the stands if you have a shady setup.
I have a 2005 was 4x4 CV's removed entirely. so now it's a 2wd no spindles. is this OK been driving 2 years like this
I believe the 4x4 front bearing on dakotas is different, yours bolts to the hub instead of just sliding over the spindle and being held on with the axle nut. With that said, the axle nut is kinda the last resort of keeping your wheel on when you have a severe bearing failure, so I don't think anyone can give you a definitive yes
i have a 2000 durango and there is a clunking noise in front passager side tire
it is the same way for sport dodge durango 2000 ?
is it???
Talk about none responsive
Hey I just noticed that you put no grease (or didn't show it) in your new hub and bearings. why no grease?
+slytherin This one is a sealed bearing.
+richpin06a oh okay makes sense thank you.
These "mechanics" told me the rack and pinion is what's causing the slop/play when my wheel and tire moves side to side... like the play you had when you put the hub back on to show us lol... i'll be doing this to my dodge soon and I have all wheel ABS so I got the hubs with the teeth on the back for the sensor I guess.
Good video and wow the metal parts look very crusty lol.
+Eslamizar well there are other parts that cause slop in your steering moving the tire left to right or back n fourth - a bearing could be one of the issues like this but there are also other steering parts that can be worn or make slop - inner and outer tire rods or just the rack and pinion itself could be bad - which the inner and outer tie rods are apart of your rack and pinion
how did you pack the bearings
No packing. There ready to install from company
what would front wheel bearing cost
what is the price of front wheel bearing
tons of rust! salt on roads?
When I bought my new hub assembly, it came with a new nut in the box 📦. So I didn't need to buy one separately. Of course, it cost $122.00 !
whats the exact size of that axle nut?
Richard Cowtails 32mm
Depends on the year and 2wd or 4wd
Que medida es el dado dela tuerca
35 mm
Se tiene que cambiar a fuerza toda la maza ?
Man. The OCD in me watching that shinny new hub going on that rusty spindle, brakes, just makes me want to tear down the whole ride and sand blast it. Lol. Man I hate rust.
Thankful to have a southern truck. None of that mess.
Lol...
@@rafterL78 same. My truck is three years older than this one and not a speck of rust
I know. I'm surprised my truck doesn't look like that. It's bad but not like that. Still original paint on the frame. Some parts I put on haven't aged while some parts seem to instantly age to the truck's age but then slow down to the trucks rate of aging. It's weird.
Just use a flathead screwdriver to press the breaks so you don't have to take the break bolt out and it's not as difficult.
Should have shown how hard it really is to get the 32mm bolt off,,in you video it looked hand tight
Ikr🤣
Looking at all the rusted metal parts under that vehicle i thought it hadnt been serviced or looked after and that bearing would be rusted solid, im supprised.
That socket was close 34.93mm :-)
Ooow "This video contains no cruelty to panal tools in any way" lol :D
zx8401ztv I did not remember how rusted things were as i had done this job last fall and did you see how the guy was fighting with the caliper trying to remove it....lol
richpin06a Yes i did lol, i was waiting for the crowbar to appear, the panal tools big brother :D
Ooow hope you dont mind me asking, have you had any problems with your mastech all singing and dancing multimeter?, im thinking i may part with some pennies for one :D
zx8401ztv So far the only thing that has happen occasionally is when you turn the meter from off to lets say voltage nothing appears on the display so i turn it off then back to voltage and it is fine.
richpin06a
Sounds like you caught it asleep lol, no its possibly an imperfect contact on the switch, dont sound serious, still sounds worth the pennies :D
My new bearing came apart during install cost me 100$ to get a new one ffs. Definitely not as easy as shown
That's real different than the 1st gen. I thought It was a hub bearing without spindle
You sure the Nut is 185 FP , see other Video it is 150 FP . I was looking at my wheel upper lower control arms I have this bearing , not the 3 bolt bearing . maybe that is why its 185#
Thank you for the 185 FP torque spec.
@@RichpinTv I looked it up it is 185 fp your 100% correct
I noticed a broken sway bar end link... MA roads haven't been nice to that truck lol
Tragic Hero Good eye yes there was a broken link.
I’ve got a 99 Dakota 4wd and the axle bolt is a 26mm just fyi yall
Holy rust!! Solid video.
Wish it was this simple for my 88 w100
nice video, thanks
Wow that puppy came off like nothing!
it feels so easy....
it feels so easy?? como asi tu???
I don't think that came off so easy, probably loosened during the cutaway. was really interested in how you loosened the whole thing from the spindle
thanks
I will change mine, the mechanic costs me a life ,,, Dakota 2002 80,000 millas
nice video
That’s the crustiest thing ever but good video! Lol
Talk about living in the RUST BELT......
I liked
Wrong title, that is a hub assembly in which are usually garbage bearings within but it is a lazy way out.
how did you pack the bearings
They are pre-lubed already inside. You might want to put a little grease on the spindle after cleaning it. So the rubber lip seal is lubricated. It will heat up and ruin the seal if it's bare shiny steel against the rubber, as the rubber will try to "grip" the steel surface.
I don't think that came off so easy, probably loosened during the cutaway. was really interested in how you loosened the whole thing from the spindle
They make special pullers for when they're needed. Sure needed them for the 4x4 front hub assembly to then take out the u-joint and front axle assembly to get to the ball joints.