Recently had an issue with my '47 Ford....350 crate engine. Running down the highway in traffic, complete and total shutdown. VERY carefully maneuvered through traffic to the shoulder. Due to being distracted by watching the traffic, I couldn't observe symptoms very carefully. Over the next few weeks, I tinkered on it, while trying to remember my days wrenching on the trucks for a company I used to work for. Long story short, I recalled that the ignition on a GM runs through the starter...further investigation revealed a wire splice that was done VERY poorly, and it was losing connection on the circuit after running a bit due to vibration. FINALLY found the problem, redid the splice properly - problem solved.
That fuel filter could very well have caused it to stop running. Debris finally builds to the point it stops the fuel flow. Then when it stops running, the debris settles out, allowing it to run again. Great video!
If the owner sold the 4 wheeler, he still wouldn’t have enough money to fix all the things wrong with that POS. You’re a good man for even looking at it.
Honestly, this feels so stereotypically Ohio to me at this point. Edit: the amount of rust you see on cars from there is mind-boggling. I drove though there during a snowstorm and the interstate was DRY from how much salt they threw down.
When I replaced the lines on my '98 Suburban, I purchased a replacement kit from Gas Tank Renu, they are nylon but rated to 900PSI, came pre-made with all fittings attached and included a new fuel filter. Fit great even in the original chassis clips. And was a great price too.
I'm going to guess a bump loosened the battery connection *and* a flake of rust that momentarily blocked fuel flow causing an engine stumble that dropped alternator output just enough to cause a stall/failure to restart - normally the battery would have held the voltage up during the stumble but a "perfect storm" of multiple issues combined in a one-in-a-million occurance...
One plus to the current car market where everything cost so much to buy... we're back to fixing broken autos more than just scrapping them to get new ones.
I had a friend’s car to diagnose for “died when running on the road”. Many years ago. Turned out to be a partially blocked breather in the tank. Admitted enough air at tick-over, but at high speed the used fuel leaving the tank created a partial vacuum in the tank and stopped the engine due to fuel starvation. Finally diagnosed when, having recreated the problem on the road, we opened the tank filler cap and noted the noise of air entering the tank. Drove home with the filler cap off.
My bets are on the loose wire at batt was the issue BUT that leaking fuel line is a no run/no start/lotsa fire issue waiting to happen. Great catch. And the push button start on a 90’s Chevy is a great theft deterrent…no one would think to look for one. 😂
This, or a "secret" switch to disable the Start and/or Ignition circuits. An old hot-rodder's trick. There has been a rash of truck thefts here in Dallas, and I've recommended it left and right.
@@walterwhite2270 I agree the quad is probably worth more BUT one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With that in mind, this truck is probably worth more than the quad since it is a means to end when it comes to transportation.
hey Ray as an ohio mechanic that does a lot of fuel and brake lines, the way to go on fuel and evap is nylon tubing, just get a filter that has the barbs for nylon, go from the pump to the fuel rail, it will take a lot less time than making steel lines, brake lines the copper/nickel line is easy to bend and flare and will never rust
at 28:30 the brake line to rear has already been replaced, it's seen in middle of screen fabricobbled and dangling wildly past the camera. lol now as for the fuel, return and vent lines, filter, they're smoked and likely tank module is about rust powder. usually you can cut and compression fitting the "FUEL" lines up near the front/engine and replace from there back. the trucks are known to have heat related ignition dropout issues. good luck.
For being a truck from Ohio, plus the age, the undercarriage looks to be in pretty good condition for the most part! Funny four-wheeler antics! LOL. Thanks for the video, Ray! I love these old trucks. These old girls have great age and are easy to find parts for!
RAY I have been riding atv's and dirt bikes for 30 years and not once have i ever seen someone take off a tailgate to unload a quad lol. and that poor truck. it always hurts my soul to see an OBS chevy/gmc neglected like that, they are the best trucks ever built. If you end up doing brake lines you might suggest to the customer to swap out the master cylinder to a newer model. The braking difference is night and day and its a cheap direct swap upgrade.
That purple starter wire is most likely fine. The issue lies in the main harness going in to the fusebox, particularly with the ground wire for the starter relay. I fix a lot of those by simply running a new ground wire from a spot just forward of the computer. Pull the fusebox, and attach a new wire as close to the relay as possible. Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless. o7
Had Chevy van 1998 5.7 that would just die driving down the road, what I found in the end was the PCM mounted to left inner fender , the bolts had corroded and it opened the computer around a1/8 inch, the circuit board was green and crusty. I took it apart , cleaned it up, put a silicone sealant and new bolts and nuts. Van ran find 2 yrs, then started doing the same thing, I replaced pcm with new one no problems for 4yrs, sold the van that guy drove it for a couple of years got in wreck ended up in salvage yard. Still would run, body totaled
I had a '68 Malibu SS Convertible for over 40 years. Occasionally had starter issues until I moved the trans stick (It looked like a stirrup rather than a stick). One night I saw a spark and it was coming from the cable. engine rebuilder forgot the Block to Frame ground strap. I had wondered why the trans selector always felt hot. Got too old to get out and get under. Sold a $2400 car for $30000. Kept it showroom pretty. 4 bolt main small block 327 bored to 350, Fuelie heads and a Turbo Slide. Never kew why that engine was in the car, bought it new, said 327 on the sticker. Single exhaust and a Power Slide. No wonder Mom always lit up the tires.
287th! GOOD SUNDAY AFTERNOON RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Always remember the two new employees! WHAT A PILE OF CRAP PICKUP! I’d be afraid to drive it ANYWHERE! Even to the grocery store! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Excellent job, Ray. I don't like it when the customer leaves you this mysterious issue with limited information to diagnose accurately with history information.
Man, that poor old truck has all the problems I had with my 89, 91, 98 and 99 trucks all had together. You must have a special place in your heart for old workhorse Chevy trucks.
That fuel filter on the frame rail was always plugging on two of my 97 Tahoes. It is an extremely fine filter. The engines would idle fine, but conk out at high speed and heavy load. I took to carrying a spare filter with me.
I am from Ohio. I see trucks like this all the time. I run new Nylon Fuel line from the Dorman Kit, and Nicop Brake line on them. Also check the crank sensor on it. They are a very common problem on those older trucks. And they will work then die, then start working again. I normally check the wiring to the crank sensor as well, they get all messed up all the time. I also never lift the old truck in Ohio by the shackles, a lot of those shackles are so rusty they are being held on by a prayer.
Ray, That type of starter push button will allow it to start regardless of the transmission gearshift selection. Since they went directly to the starter solenoid they have bypassed all the safeties such as the neutral switch and mechanical lockouts of the gearshift /ignition mechanical lockout. Correct?
I had to replace all my brake lines on my 99 Silverado also my fuel pump and filter.I bought my brake lines off Amazon I had to fabricate them.Nickel copper lines easy to work with.
the bracket makes for a nice, neat factory installation when the vehicle is new.... but as a vehicle ages it harbors road salt (if driven in the salt). usually the lines fail FIRST at the retaining bracket
It's a Chevy 350, it won't die. Just needs an occasional nap. Just like my X code ford Tempo. Only time it ever died was when it was hit by lightning... Just needed a new antenna, radio, and ignition coil.
Yep those fuel filters are notorious for plugging up...I was replacing those fuel filters every 6 months...because filters are cheaper than the fuel pump
I had a 1997 GMC 6 cylinder and it would stop running one time on the freeway which could have gotten me killed. I called my Genius Brother in law and he told me to look at the back of the distributer housing where I found a white clip connecter with red and white wires all described exactly by him. He said that the clip was sometimes not pushed in all the way, I pushed it and heard a click, that was it and it never failed again. like I said the guy is a automotive genius , he trains mechanics.
try new york, biggest piles of rusted out garbage in the country. i use copious amounts of fluid film, which really seems to work. the thing is most people do nothing, and you end up with a piece of garbage in no time.
bed off replace everything from the cab back you need to replace then spray down everything that is rusted with por 15 before reassembly...the frame the bed...
Now we all know you were like Master Troy, jump in there n if you start it first time I'll give you 50 bucks 😂 that PTS buttons something I've never seen before lol
Yes Ray, you will be replacing the fuel and brake lines on that truck. No matter which lines you need to replace the others WILL start leaking. I'm in Michigan just over the Ohio border and have replaced them on many vehicles. Found replacement line kits at the local Auto Value store(s). Had to order them, but they have them complete from tank to engine. To me, pump looked original. I would replace it myself, but that is just me. Fuel filter has never been changed.
Always tie off the loading ramps from the center of the ramps to the bumper when loading or unloading . Quality 1” racket straps will be sufficient , not Garbage Freight Marshmallow hold down straps ! 7/23/23
Ray, Out of all the trucks I’ve owned my ‘98 Chevy 1500 was my favorite. Not too many problems and pretty easy to work on when it did have any issues. This 3/4 ton sounds like it’s running pretty well. Hopefully you’ll be able to find the parts and get the go ahead from the owner to make the repairs. Great Ohio license plate, push button start mod! Blessings from Oklahoma
I have a 98 Chevy Silverado Z71-4x4 that still looks new, several years ago installed a New 350 Engine, yes it is easy to work on compared to newer vehicles and it being the last of the square body Chevy's , its value has held pretty good.
I have 2000 Buick Regal that started stalling in Summer in the afternoons while driving. Replaced temp sender, ignition coil packs and module, fuel tank . fuel lines and thermostat. determined it was not electrical or engine related. 2 years prior I replaced the Fuel pump "only OEM parts here" because the fuel gauge didn't read accurate. well 2 years later that pump failed in a cold winter and I put the old pump back in. Car doesn't stall in summer heat anymore. Issue was fuel tank pressure, GM pump worked perfect for 2 1/2 years , perfect fuel trim levels. no issues except when it hit 105 degrees going down the highway under load. Took it to 3 shops on hot summer days and they could not reproduce the issue. I should have replaced new OEM $258.00 GM fuel pump.
The Chevy engine starts and sounds great. I'm envious! I wished that engine was in my Jeep, and the Jeep's underpowered, oil leaking, low mileage POS 3.8 V6 was in the scrap yard.
For fuel lines, check Dorman. They make some rubber/steel sheathed lines to replace rusted ones. Just did it on my 07 TrailBlazer. Better than using pre-fab hard lines or fabbing your own. For brake lines, NiCop lines would work well here. If you have to fab fuel lines, this would work too.
if they plan on driving it to the grave, put nicopp on for all the lines, fuel, brake, trans, oil cooler. they do make it in all sizes, but it may be hard to source locally/timely.
@@andrewdonohue1853 except, the nylon lines dislike heat, bad routing and they'll melt through or with age get brittle and fracture. nothing like fuel spraying all over a hot engine compartment and exhaust(fire and burnt to the ground)
@@throttlebottle5906 my 03 bonneville SSEi had nylon lines under hood going to steel lines under the car. i replaced the entire thing with nylon and i attached them to the existing fuel lines. it is nowhere near the exhaust or anything hot. i did it 3 years ago and so far im pleased with my repair.
@@throttlebottle5906 Why, though? A decent flaring tool is about $60 and you can purchase coated steal brake lines fairly cheaply here in Germany. Copper brake lines won't pass inspection here, and the steel stuff is easy enough to work with. Cut, flair, use flair couplers and bleed the brakes.
My 97 GMC 2500 had that exact issue died while driving at 70 MPH. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel Relay. I researched it and they are notorious for fuel injectors failing. Thats next for mine. Just sharing
I actually had the plugged fuel filter. This was in late 70's, an Army M880 dodge pickup. since parts take time to get in Army, we reversed the filter, flushed it a little. The gas that came out was deep red. Worked good enough until we got a new filter. Would start and idle, would not run any faster.
I’m thinking with the pitchfork and dog food the owner has cattle or sheep , and the quad is his field work vehicle not just a toy . The starter wire is a farm work around . Possibly a clogged filter and maybe the pin hole allows an air bubble in the line while driving and between the two it caused the shut down . Yep that is a stretch . Stay safe , have fun .
Thanks for the idea cause my key don't make it turn over either! I had to run a wire from the starter to the battery and create a connection. The button is a good idea!
Cisco‘s auto parts, Middletown, New York they have all kinds of old Chevy parts surprises the hell out of me. Every time I go there can’t find it anywhere else they got it.😊
I literally had the same thing happen! I replaced my brakes and greased all my fittings and took my obs ford for a test drive and got a mile away and turned around. Went over a speed bump and it died! Would crank all day but not start. Checked the battery, plugs and wires, inertia switch, heard the fuel pump priming, and many other things. Ended up being the distributor stator. Replaced it and it started right up.
There's an awful lot of little things left broken or hacked together. Seems a shame when proper repairs aren't all that hard. But the demon rust is knocking on the door. Have to see if this one can be saved. Also very interesting to me personally, as I have a 98 Burb, so it's great to get a tour of where some little things are hiding.
Saying a shame is being nice. More like moron mods. Made by morons. I’d let them fix their own pile of shit. U want to be Joe genius u fix it ahole id say. Ray is being too generous
Rule of thumb, never set a e-brake unless you know it will release. Living in northern Mn. where rust is the name of the game, we always went under and pulled on the cable a little bit to make sure the cable would move.
Definitely replace that fuel filter and lines ASAP no questions asked and the fuel pump electrical connector and ground are probably corroded as well given intermittent opens in the fuel pump circuit when evre the vehicle has run for a while. Corrosion can creates more resistance in the line causing more heat which can mean kaboom.
Yes! Interesting video! I really hope they ok those brakes line repairs and of course the fuel line repair cuz they are all safety related and needed...
Boy that truck has seen some backyard mechanics in its day. it almost looks like someone might have already overlayed the rear brake line. i saw a bunch of 3 ft pieces of brake line joined with unions running near the gas tank.
I appreciate you looking out for Troy there Mr Ray "If things go south, don't try to save it just get out of the way". Shows you care about your employees more than the cost of a broken 4-wheeler! Good bosses don't come by too often and you're one of them :)
if you cant get a replacement fuel line kit, dorman makes a slick kit that uses pretty readily available nylon fuel line and kit comes with a decent press tool and all the quick connects etc. I dont remember the number but i think it was called "professional nylon fuel line repair kit". Its really handy for older clunkers like this-we used to use it a lot up here in the rust belt-you can fab up a new line pretty easily
I did have a mystery case decades ago with a presumed fuel issue ( It didn't stall but acted like it wanted to). I looked for two days as well since I had good pressure at idle. I decided to put the tank under a little pressure with an air hose and the lines where fuel of pin holes. My only conclusion was that it was under load, and it was catching some air, causing it to act like it was the fuel pump. I'm sure your on the right track!
I can tell you exactly how a leaking fuel line can cause an intermittent stalling/no restart issue. And even allow a vehicle to restart and run fine, with proper fuel pressure. It boils down to this: If fuel can get out, air can get in, courtesy of the volatility of gasoline and the Venturi effect.. And let me tell you, while air is necessary for combustion, it makes for a lousy fuel. My late wife had a '77 VW Rabbit 4-cy with a Bosch FI system. Coincidentally, this Rabbit was also an Ohio car. Every once in awhile, after driving for a period of time, the fuel pump would start to get loud, then the engine would stall out. It would not restart until it had sat and cooled for a period of time, usually about 30 minutes. And it only did this during the summer on hot days. My wife had had it into the shop a time or two before we got married, but the techs could not recreate the issue, and thus unable to diagnose it. After some years and a move to the sunny, warm South, we began to experience this problem more frequently. And we began to notice puddles of fuel on the ground. One day after work, I saw a lot of fuel on the ground, courtesy of the heretofore unseen rusty fuel line. Once we fixed that, no more puddles of fuel on the ground and no more stalling/no restarts on warm days.
I love those older Chevys and GMCs but I will say from experience the crank sensor will cause the same symptoms as a bad fuel pump on that particular unit and with the crank sensor it can be a very slight or intermittent failure
@@andrewdonohue1853 Nope. When the pulses from the crank sensor go away, the ignition module stops the spark and fuel pump before the ECM knows there is a problem. Been there done that on an'05 LeSabre with the 3800 in it. Took a new ignition harness to fix the bad connector at the crank sensor.
Me too. I have a GMC Sierra that I bought Jan. 5th 1994. It has 130k on the odometer but the OEM engine and trans only have 20k. Looks brand new thanks to living in AZ desert. License 24.00 a year. Full coverage 400.00 per year. Payments 00.00!
My Buick stalled as I was turning and thought power steering pump! Before I could test that died 2 more times. Luckly I had a nother Buick with new coils and wires so I just went and grabbed the whole ignition control mod and started. Go half a mile and up a hill and coasted over. Get it home after my buddy pulled me and we push it to park and it starts. So it ended up being the ignition con mod plug one way it would hit the exhaust then the other way the transmission dipstick tube. Stalled it both ways so I zip tied a few zip ties to the dipstick tube and new conduit. Drove it for 4 more years after.
Back in the day, my girlfriend would just use a steak knife with a wooden handle and would ground the battery to the frame, started everytime! 😂 The silly things ya do when you're 18...
@@jilbertb yeah the thing is that all Chevy truck have issues with the body grounds and the break lines that run on the frame along with the fuel line. When I replaced all of mine I ran them through a rubber hose . Never had an issue after that.then I bought three cases of under coating and sprayed the entire undercarriage of the truck.
I would recommend dropping the tank, fix all them lines, since tank will be down replace the fuel pump. Buy the fuel line kit, you can cut the steel line, and fitting and install new rubber tubing, or just use the kit, and make all new hoses,
Ohio is great, best location (other than Florida) in the nation. Minimal crazy destructive Demoncrats, mild non tornado/hurricane weather and a Great Lake. Ok, the winters suck.
it's structurally sound actually. everything that's been hacked can easily be fixed, and cheaply. the engine sounds very healthy. i say fix it. new pickups are stupid expensive and overly complicated. these trucks are actually pretty decent vehicles.
Ray, now that's its running because you found the alternate ignition I truly think the battery cable you fixed killed it and allowed it to not restart, I would try to recreate that by running the truck and backing the nut off a turn or so and wiggle the wires, your other though about the fuel pump was very true, however that's a very strong fuel pump, typically when the jostling of a tow I've only seen about 50% of the pressure compared to what you have and ultimately still needing a pump in a short period of time, hope this helps, and good luck, great job and happy weekend to you
I had a '65 olds that would run fine but on occassion would stall out. If I waited a few moments, I could continue. It would stall out when needing power, like going up hill. What it was was a cracked fuel line that allowed air into the fuel when demand was greatest. Letting it idle allowed the air to pass and then the fuel would come back into play. I was able to cut off the steel line and reinstall the flex and no more problem!
Everything you looked at or touched was broken. lol It is 25.5 years old but still... It took wayyyy longer to run that starter trigger wire, fab a switch plate, and install the switch than it would have to pull the steering wheel and replace the ignition switch. 😅 Shops looking great Ray!!! I'm happy for you and wish you continued growth and success.
When that brake pedal came at me I thought I was in a 3d movie. 😂
I thought, "*POW!* Right 'n the kisser!" 💥😆
Probs what the owner sees every time he uses the brake too😂
Did anyone else noticed the nut cooler vent? One of the best things man ever did when making trucks.
Yea, women hate them. Gives them chapped lips. 🤣
@@craigquann HA!! You win the internet with that comment!🍻
Ball Chiller
@superduty4556 yes sir!
Recently had an issue with my '47 Ford....350 crate engine. Running down the highway in traffic, complete and total shutdown. VERY carefully maneuvered through traffic to the shoulder. Due to being distracted by watching the traffic, I couldn't observe symptoms very carefully. Over the next few weeks, I tinkered on it, while trying to remember my days wrenching on the trucks for a company I used to work for. Long story short, I recalled that the ignition on a GM runs through the starter...further investigation revealed a wire splice that was done VERY poorly, and it was losing connection on the circuit after running a bit due to vibration. FINALLY found the problem, redid the splice properly - problem solved.
I thought it might have been the Ford rejecting the Chevy transplant!
What’s happening with the Monte Carlo with the 5.3 V8.
He may have the starter fixed like that to prevent someone from trying to steal it when he's got it parked off on the 4 wheeler......never know.
Frankenstein truck from battery to the starter Switch
That fuel filter could very well have caused it to stop running. Debris finally builds to the point it stops the fuel flow. Then when it stops running, the debris settles out, allowing it to run again. Great video!
I think some of that fuel line rust might have flaked off and temporarily plugged the filter.
"Oh nooo, i broke more things than i fixed" had me rollin
If the owner sold the 4 wheeler, he still wouldn’t have enough money to fix all the things wrong with that POS. You’re a good man for even looking at it.
Truck has seen better days, definitely not safe to be on the road!
Honestly, this feels so stereotypically Ohio to me at this point. Edit: the amount of rust you see on cars from there is mind-boggling. I drove though there during a snowstorm and the interstate was DRY from how much salt they threw down.
Shut up. He's getting paid.
With all the "Redneck Modifications" quite a feat for it to make to Florida from Ohio. 😎😎
That’s what I was thinking…
Now don't go knocking on "Ohio Jerry Rigging" we do know how to hold them together in Rust Country 😂
Good set of tyres
For a Ohio truck not much body rust! I love Ohio, just not the rust!
A redneck would have used a beer can for the little switch panel.
When I replaced the lines on my '98 Suburban, I purchased a replacement kit from Gas Tank Renu, they are nylon but rated to 900PSI, came pre-made with all fittings attached and included a new fuel filter. Fit great even in the original chassis clips. And was a great price too.
I'm going to guess a bump loosened the battery connection *and* a flake of rust that momentarily blocked fuel flow causing an engine stumble that dropped alternator output just enough to cause a stall/failure to restart - normally the battery would have held the voltage up during the stumble but a "perfect storm" of multiple issues combined in a one-in-a-million occurance...
The fuel leak is a fire just waiting to happen... but the brake pedal to the floor isn't very reassuring either! 😮
One plus to the current car market where everything cost so much to buy... we're back to fixing broken autos more than just scrapping them to get new ones.
Watched the fuel gauge go NUTS when you first started and shutdown the truck… maybe a sign!
I thoroughly enjoy these 'basket cases' having owned and operated(?) them-out of necessity.
I had a friend’s car to diagnose for “died when running on the road”. Many years ago. Turned out to be a partially blocked breather in the tank. Admitted enough air at tick-over, but at high speed the used fuel leaving the tank created a partial vacuum in the tank and stopped the engine due to fuel starvation. Finally diagnosed when, having recreated the problem on the road, we opened the tank filler cap and noted the noise of air entering the tank. Drove home with the filler cap off.
My bets are on the loose wire at batt was the issue BUT that leaking fuel line is a no run/no start/lotsa fire issue waiting to happen. Great catch.
And the push button start on a 90’s Chevy is a great theft deterrent…no one would think to look for one. 😂
theft?
to prevent it from being scrapped?
This, or a "secret" switch to disable the Start and/or Ignition circuits. An old hot-rodder's trick. There has been a rash of truck thefts here in Dallas, and I've recommended it left and right.
Who would want to steal that piece of crap...the 4 wheeler in the back is worth more.....
@@walterwhite2270 I agree the quad is probably worth more BUT one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. With that in mind, this truck is probably worth more than the quad since it is a means to end when it comes to transportation.
It's the dist cap causing it mine and my friends both 5.7 silverados done same thing till we changed it.
Whenever I see an "elderly" Chever-Lay pickup truck I am reminded of that Jimmy Buffett song "Wastin' Away Again In Margaritaville".
Amazing how some people can drive a vehicle in such condition with wires dangling near the brake and gas pedals🤨
I think it was an attempt to get it running.
"Oh no, I've broken more things than I've fixed" 😂
Great video Rainman 🇦🇺 🇦🇺 🇦🇺
hey Ray as an ohio mechanic that does a lot of fuel and brake lines, the way to go on fuel and evap is nylon tubing, just get a filter that has the barbs for nylon, go from the pump to the fuel rail, it will take a lot less time than making steel lines, brake lines the copper/nickel line is easy to bend and flare and will never rust
You seem to have a special challenge when it is apparent that the owner or somebody close to the owner has worked on the vehicle.
That looks like something my brother in law would do to “prevent “ anyone else from using a vehicle 😅
at 28:30 the brake line to rear has already been replaced, it's seen in middle of screen fabricobbled and dangling wildly past the camera. lol
now as for the fuel, return and vent lines, filter, they're smoked and likely tank module is about rust powder. usually you can cut and compression fitting the "FUEL" lines up near the front/engine and replace from there back.
the trucks are known to have heat related ignition dropout issues. good luck.
For being a truck from Ohio, plus the age, the undercarriage looks to be in pretty good condition for the most part! Funny four-wheeler antics! LOL. Thanks for the video, Ray! I love these old trucks. These old girls have great age and are easy to find parts for!
I kept thinking, in the words of Jesse “it’s your fuel man, it’s got a nasty hole in it”
RAY I have been riding atv's and dirt bikes for 30 years and not once have i ever seen someone take off a tailgate to unload a quad lol. and that poor truck. it always hurts my soul to see an OBS chevy/gmc neglected like that, they are the best trucks ever built. If you end up doing brake lines you might suggest to the customer to swap out the master cylinder to a newer model. The braking difference is night and day and its a cheap direct swap upgrade.
This truck reminds me of a creepy movie with a slightly modified title.
“Big Truck of Horrors”.
That purple starter wire is most likely fine. The issue lies in the main harness going in to the fusebox, particularly with the ground wire for the starter relay. I fix a lot of those by simply running a new ground wire from a spot just forward of the computer. Pull the fusebox, and attach a new wire as close to the relay as possible.
Have a great day, Sir! And God Bless. o7
Had Chevy van 1998 5.7 that would just die driving down the road, what I found in the end was the PCM mounted to left inner fender , the bolts had corroded and it opened the computer around a1/8 inch, the circuit board was green and crusty. I took it apart , cleaned it up, put a silicone sealant and new bolts and nuts. Van ran find 2 yrs, then started doing the same thing, I replaced pcm with new one no problems for 4yrs, sold the van that guy drove it for a couple of years got in wreck ended up in salvage yard. Still would run, body totaled
And don't forget negative terminal to body ground, and engine to body ground, just as important as tight clamps
I had a '68 Malibu SS Convertible for over 40 years. Occasionally had starter issues until I moved the trans stick (It looked like a stirrup rather than a stick). One night I saw a spark and it was coming from the cable. engine rebuilder forgot the Block to Frame ground strap. I had wondered why the trans selector always felt hot.
Got too old to get out and get under. Sold a $2400 car for $30000. Kept it showroom pretty. 4 bolt main small block 327 bored to 350, Fuelie heads and a Turbo Slide. Never kew why that engine was in the car, bought it new, said 327 on the sticker. Single exhaust and a Power Slide. No wonder Mom always lit up the tires.
287th! GOOD SUNDAY AFTERNOON RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Always remember the two new employees! WHAT A PILE OF CRAP PICKUP! I’d be afraid to drive it ANYWHERE! Even to the grocery store! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Excellent job, Ray. I don't like it when the customer leaves you this mysterious issue with limited information to diagnose accurately with history information.
Man, that poor old truck has all the problems I had with my 89, 91, 98 and 99 trucks all had together. You must have a special place in your heart for old workhorse Chevy trucks.
That fuel filter on the frame rail was always plugging on two of my 97 Tahoes. It is an extremely fine filter. The engines would idle fine, but conk out at high speed and heavy load. I took to carrying a spare filter with me.
I am from Ohio. I see trucks like this all the time. I run new Nylon Fuel line from the Dorman Kit, and Nicop Brake line on them. Also check the crank sensor on it. They are a very common problem on those older trucks. And they will work then die, then start working again. I normally check the wiring to the crank sensor as well, they get all messed up all the time. I also never lift the old truck in Ohio by the shackles, a lot of those shackles are so rusty they are being held on by a prayer.
Ray, That type of starter push button will allow it to start regardless of the transmission gearshift selection. Since they went directly to the starter solenoid they have bypassed all the safeties such as the neutral switch and mechanical lockouts of the gearshift /ignition mechanical lockout. Correct?
Yes. Not the smartest idea, but it works. That's this trucks theme lol
I had to replace all my brake lines on my 99 Silverado also my fuel pump and filter.I bought my brake lines off Amazon I had to fabricate them.Nickel copper lines easy to work with.
the bracket makes for a nice, neat factory installation when the vehicle is new.... but as a vehicle ages it harbors road salt (if driven in the salt). usually the lines fail FIRST at the retaining bracket
It's a Chevy 350, it won't die. Just needs an occasional nap.
Just like my X code ford Tempo. Only time it ever died was when it was hit by lightning... Just needed a new antenna, radio, and ignition coil.
Yep those fuel filters are notorious for plugging up...I was replacing those fuel filters every 6 months...because filters are cheaper than the fuel pump
I had a 1997 GMC 6 cylinder and it would stop running one time on the freeway which could have gotten me killed. I called my Genius Brother in law and he told me to look at the back of the distributer housing where I found a white clip connecter with red and white wires all described exactly by him. He said that the clip was sometimes not pushed in all the way, I pushed it and heard a click, that was it and it never failed again. like I said the guy is a automotive genius , he trains mechanics.
Working on a Vehicle from Ohio must be really scary, anything can happen anytime😟
Most normal thing in Ohio
@@justindaniels17 If i ever go to the USA i think twice about going to OHIO 😅
@@AustrianGuy1 😂😂
Don't I know it!
try new york, biggest piles of rusted out garbage in the country. i use copious amounts of fluid film, which really seems to work. the thing is most people do nothing, and you end up with a piece of garbage in no time.
bed off replace everything from the cab back you need to replace then spray down everything that is rusted with por 15 before reassembly...the frame the bed...
I went back to Ohio
But my city was gone
There was no train station
There was no downtown
Ay, oh, way to go, Ohio...
I sang that in my head 🎶
@@92mrsrdb 🏙💨🏜...✌👍
That's why there's a 4 wheeler in the back . You are never stranded .
It's also worth more than the Truck, LMAO.
Put engine under stress and check the voltage on the alternator and the fuel pressure. Plus like I said check out the main ground wire
Now we all know you were like Master Troy, jump in there n if you start it first time I'll give you 50 bucks 😂 that PTS buttons something I've never seen before lol
Yes Ray, you will be replacing the fuel and brake lines on that truck. No matter which lines you need to replace the others WILL start leaking. I'm in Michigan just over the Ohio border and have replaced them on many vehicles.
Found replacement line kits at the local Auto Value store(s). Had to order them, but they have them complete from tank to engine.
To me, pump looked original. I would replace it myself, but that is just me. Fuel filter has never been changed.
Always tie off the loading ramps from the center of the ramps to the bumper when loading or unloading . Quality 1” racket straps will be sufficient , not Garbage Freight Marshmallow hold down straps ! 7/23/23
Ray,
Out of all the trucks I’ve owned my ‘98 Chevy 1500 was my favorite.
Not too many problems and pretty easy to work on when it did have any issues.
This 3/4 ton sounds like it’s running pretty well.
Hopefully you’ll be able to find the parts and get the go ahead from the owner to make the repairs.
Great Ohio license plate, push button start mod!
Blessings from Oklahoma
One of the most normal thing in Ohio ☠️😂
My relative here in Wisconsin has one of those, a 95 with a stick shift. Works well too!
I have a 98 Chevy Silverado Z71-4x4 that still looks new, several years ago installed a New 350 Engine, yes it is easy to work on compared to newer vehicles and it being the last of the square body Chevy's , its value has held pretty good.
Yep, scabbed on starter buttons aren't a rare sight in Oklahoma!
I have 2000 Buick Regal that started stalling in Summer in the afternoons while driving. Replaced temp sender, ignition coil packs and module, fuel tank . fuel lines and thermostat. determined it was not electrical or engine related. 2 years prior I replaced the Fuel pump "only OEM parts here" because the fuel gauge didn't read accurate. well 2 years later that pump failed in a cold winter and I put the old pump back in. Car doesn't stall in summer heat anymore. Issue was fuel tank pressure, GM pump worked perfect for 2 1/2 years , perfect fuel trim levels. no issues except when it hit 105 degrees going down the highway under load. Took it to 3 shops on hot summer days and they could not reproduce the issue. I should have replaced new OEM $258.00 GM fuel pump.
Good afternoon, Ray. Hope you are having a restful weekend.
@@wza223-fo3mc ya know!
@@wza223-fo3mcSeriously? There's always one. Was that really necessary?
Hi Ray. I had a 95 GMC half ton. They won’t run without a battery. The battery post was probably your only problem. Love your channel.
I was thinking it was the battery seen as those terminals were so loose. All it needed was a bump in the rd for it to disconnect
@@Tennyson_W05 Same, I would try loosening that terminal again to where it was, & seeing if the fault comes back.
@@NemoConsequentae my thoughts exactly. Thought Ray might have done that when he said he realised that it was a push button start
Yup definitely the loose positive wire was the issue.
The Chevy engine starts and sounds great. I'm envious! I wished that engine was in my Jeep, and the Jeep's underpowered, oil leaking, low mileage POS 3.8 V6 was in the scrap yard.
Anybody who buys a Jeep with a minivan motor knows it’s not gonna have a lot of power😂 Get a real Jeep
At the age of that truck the fuel pump issue is a matter of when, not if.
For fuel lines, check Dorman. They make some rubber/steel sheathed lines to replace rusted ones. Just did it on my 07 TrailBlazer. Better than using pre-fab hard lines or fabbing your own. For brake lines, NiCop lines would work well here. If you have to fab fuel lines, this would work too.
if they plan on driving it to the grave, put nicopp on for all the lines, fuel, brake, trans, oil cooler. they do make it in all sizes, but it may be hard to source locally/timely.
i use nylon lines, they are made FOR fuel injection, they are a breeze to install and never rust
@@andrewdonohue1853 except, the nylon lines dislike heat, bad routing and they'll melt through or with age get brittle and fracture. nothing like fuel spraying all over a hot engine compartment and exhaust(fire and burnt to the ground)
@@throttlebottle5906 my 03 bonneville SSEi had nylon lines under hood going to steel lines under the car. i replaced the entire thing with nylon and i attached them to the existing fuel lines. it is nowhere near the exhaust or anything hot. i did it 3 years ago and so far im pleased with my repair.
@@throttlebottle5906 Why, though? A decent flaring tool is about $60 and you can purchase coated steal brake lines fairly cheaply here in Germany. Copper brake lines won't pass inspection here, and the steel stuff is easy enough to work with. Cut, flair, use flair couplers and bleed the brakes.
Brave man pushing the parking brake of an old truck from Ohio
Yeah, lucky it released. You don't touch them in Iowa either.
😂!YOU HAD ME ROLLING WHEN YOU TOLD TROY IF THINGS GO SOUTH WHILE UNLOADING THE ATV DON’T TRY TO SAVE ME.I COULD ONLY IMAGINE THE LOOK 👀 ON TROYS FACE!
THE BLESSINGS OF BEING A GOOD MECHANIC. YOU TEND TO GET THE BOTTOM OF THE BARREL THAT NO ONE ELSE CAN FIX.
i do not like to see "spares" lying about somebody has obviously tried doing something but what no doubt you will fix it Ray ,thanks for the video
My 97 GMC 2500 had that exact issue died while driving at 70 MPH. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel Relay. I researched it and they are notorious for fuel injectors failing. Thats next for mine. Just sharing
I actually had the plugged fuel filter. This was in late 70's, an Army M880 dodge pickup. since parts take time to get in Army, we reversed the filter, flushed it a little. The gas that came out was deep red. Worked good enough until we got a new filter.
Would start and idle, would not run any faster.
I’m thinking with the pitchfork and dog food the owner has cattle or sheep , and the quad is his field work vehicle not just a toy . The starter wire is a farm work around . Possibly a clogged filter and maybe the pin hole allows an air bubble in the line while driving and between the two it caused the shut down . Yep that is a stretch . Stay safe , have fun .
Thanks for the idea cause my key don't make it turn over either! I had to run a wire from the starter to the battery and create a connection. The button is a good idea!
Cisco‘s auto parts, Middletown, New York they have all kinds of old Chevy parts surprises the hell out of me. Every time I go there can’t find it anywhere else they got it.😊
After changing bedliner fluid you can make your own gasket (if not available at GM ) with the "Right Stuff" ....
That would just make the bed rust out quicker.
Had an 88 Chevy 1/2 ton for my first vehicle... they're beast!
I was expecting to see Ray pull out a dirty shovel and half a bag of lime :)
Push-button start on a '99 Silveryradoish. Chevy was ahead of the curve on that.
outstanding ray love the content please put troy in more videos but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day
I literally had the same thing happen! I replaced my brakes and greased all my fittings and took my obs ford for a test drive and got a mile away and turned around. Went over a speed bump and it died! Would crank all day but not start. Checked the battery, plugs and wires, inertia switch, heard the fuel pump priming, and many other things. Ended up being the distributor stator. Replaced it and it started right up.
There's an awful lot of little things left broken or hacked together. Seems a shame when proper repairs aren't all that hard. But the demon rust is knocking on the door. Have to see if this one can be saved. Also very interesting to me personally, as I have a 98 Burb, so it's great to get a tour of where some little things are hiding.
Saying a shame is being nice. More like moron mods. Made by morons. I’d let them fix their own pile of shit. U want to be Joe genius u fix it ahole id say. Ray is being too generous
Ray works on a lot of junk vehicles!
This is no where the amour of rust it should have this is CLEAN.
Rule of thumb, never set a e-brake unless you know it will release. Living in northern Mn. where rust is the name of the game, we always went under and pulled on the cable a little bit to make sure the cable would move.
He's a Florida Man, he don't know any better. I CRINGED when he did that, I live in N.E. PA. " RUST BELT ".
@@NoWr2Run Yea, but he from Michigan!
Definitely replace that fuel filter and lines ASAP no questions asked and the fuel pump electrical connector and ground are probably corroded as well given intermittent opens in the fuel pump circuit when evre the vehicle has run for a while. Corrosion can creates more resistance in the line causing more heat which can mean kaboom.
Had similar symptoms, was fuel filter. Detritus would settle when vehicle not in use. When running would stir up until blocked again.
Yes! Interesting video! I really hope they ok those brakes line repairs and of course the fuel line repair cuz they are all safety related and needed...
Boy that truck has seen some backyard mechanics in its day. it almost looks like someone might have already overlayed the rear brake line. i saw a bunch of 3 ft pieces of brake line joined with unions running near the gas tank.
I appreciate you looking out for Troy there Mr Ray "If things go south, don't try to save it just get out of the way". Shows you care about your employees more than the cost of a broken 4-wheeler! Good bosses don't come by too often and you're one of them :)
yep told you about mine several months back i love it
if you cant get a replacement fuel line kit, dorman makes a slick kit that uses pretty readily available nylon fuel line and kit comes with a decent press tool and all the quick connects etc. I dont remember the number but i think it was called "professional nylon fuel line repair kit". Its really handy for older clunkers like this-we used to use it a lot up here in the rust belt-you can fab up a new line pretty easily
Did a few of those up here in WI, for fuel and steel brake lines.
That truck is a probably owned by a hilltbilly. His name is Jerry Riggs. 😄. Thanks for another great video. Hello from Pa USA 🇺🇸 💖
I did have a mystery case decades ago with a presumed fuel issue ( It didn't stall but acted like it wanted to). I looked for two days as well since I had good pressure at idle. I decided to put the tank under a little pressure with an air hose and the lines where fuel of pin holes. My only conclusion was that it was under load, and it was catching some air, causing it to act like it was the fuel pump. I'm sure your on the right track!
An engine driven pump (decades ago) would be sucking air in through those pinholes.
I can tell you exactly how a leaking fuel line can cause an intermittent stalling/no restart issue. And even allow a vehicle to restart and run fine, with proper fuel pressure. It boils down to this: If fuel can get out, air can get in, courtesy of the volatility of gasoline and the Venturi effect.. And let me tell you, while air is necessary for combustion, it makes for a lousy fuel. My late wife had a '77 VW Rabbit 4-cy with a Bosch FI system. Coincidentally, this Rabbit was also an Ohio car. Every once in awhile, after driving for a period of time, the fuel pump would start to get loud, then the engine would stall out. It would not restart until it had sat and cooled for a period of time, usually about 30 minutes. And it only did this during the summer on hot days. My wife had had it into the shop a time or two before we got married, but the techs could not recreate the issue, and thus unable to diagnose it. After some years and a move to the sunny, warm South, we began to experience this problem more frequently. And we began to notice puddles of fuel on the ground. One day after work, I saw a lot of fuel on the ground, courtesy of the heretofore unseen rusty fuel line. Once we fixed that, no more puddles of fuel on the ground and no more stalling/no restarts on warm days.
I love those older Chevys and GMCs but I will say from experience the crank sensor will cause the same symptoms as a bad fuel pump on that particular unit and with the crank sensor it can be a very slight or intermittent failure
i agree but wouldnt it throw a DTC (diagnostic trouble code)?
@@andrewdonohue1853 Nope. When the pulses from the crank sensor go away, the ignition module stops the spark and fuel pump before the ECM knows there is a problem. Been there done that on an'05 LeSabre with the 3800 in it. Took a new ignition harness to fix the bad connector at the crank sensor.
10K quad, 1K Truck. That makes sense.
I love those 90s trucks... Hope you find the part for it Ray
Me too. I have a GMC Sierra that I bought Jan. 5th 1994. It has 130k on the odometer but the OEM engine and trans only have 20k. Looks brand new thanks to living in AZ desert. License 24.00 a year. Full coverage 400.00 per year. Payments 00.00!
My Buick stalled as I was turning and thought power steering pump! Before I could test that died 2 more times. Luckly I had a nother Buick with new coils and wires so I just went and grabbed the whole ignition control mod and started. Go half a mile and up a hill and coasted over. Get it home after my buddy pulled me and we push it to park and it starts. So it ended up being the ignition con mod plug one way it would hit the exhaust then the other way the transmission dipstick tube. Stalled it both ways so I zip tied a few zip ties to the dipstick tube and new conduit. Drove it for 4 more years after.
Ray I had the same issue once and it was the main ground wire from the engine to the frame that had to be replaced along with the alternator.
Back in the day, my girlfriend would just use a steak knife with a wooden handle and would ground the battery to the frame, started everytime! 😂 The silly things ya do when you're 18...
@@jilbertb yeah the thing is that all Chevy truck have issues with the body grounds and the break lines that run on the frame along with the fuel line. When I replaced all of mine I ran them through a rubber hose . Never had an issue after that.then I bought three cases of under coating and sprayed the entire undercarriage of the truck.
Hollywood needs you, what a wonderful entertaining personality and just what makes me grin.
Keep us updated on this. Clean truck, just needs tlc.
I would recommend dropping the tank, fix all them lines, since tank will be down replace the fuel pump. Buy the fuel line kit, you can cut the steel line, and fitting and install new rubber tubing, or just use the kit, and make all new hoses,
You really need to congratulate this customer, they actually managed to escape from Ohio.
Ohio is great, best location (other than Florida) in the nation. Minimal crazy destructive Demoncrats, mild non tornado/hurricane weather and a Great Lake. Ok, the winters suck.
At least their pickup did, by being towed out.
@@John-dp3ln demoncrats ....😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I do love a good diagnostic mystery.
Wow, that truck is falling apart! The rigging took more time than the simple fixes.
it's structurally sound actually. everything that's been hacked can easily be fixed, and cheaply. the engine sounds very healthy. i say fix it. new pickups are stupid expensive and overly complicated. these trucks are actually pretty decent vehicles.
@@andrewdonohue1853 And old Chevys won’t die. This one is proof.
@@delrider302 new chevys are junk
This is NOT falling apart this is probably a 2-3500 truck with it still having paint on the frame on top of have ZERO rust on the body.
Good afternoon Mr Ray lol had to look to see what time it was in Tennessee 😅
Love Ray's patience. A lot of others (Eric O.) would have looked at this truck and the DIY wiring etc... and just sent it away...
He's got plenty of videos of rusted brake & fuel lined where he has repaired/replaced them. Most of his work is rust related.
eric o can handle this and he would
A remote starter switch is a good anti theft feature, LOL. I had an old dodge van I did that too.
Ray, now that's its running because you found the alternate ignition I truly think the battery cable you fixed killed it and allowed it to not restart, I would try to recreate that by running the truck and backing the nut off a turn or so and wiggle the wires, your other though about the fuel pump was very true, however that's a very strong fuel pump, typically when the jostling of a tow I've only seen about 50% of the pressure compared to what you have and ultimately still needing a pump in a short period of time, hope this helps, and good luck, great job and happy weekend to you
Agree with batt cables scenario.
I had a '65 olds that would run fine but on occassion would stall out. If I waited a few moments, I could continue. It would stall out when needing power, like going up hill. What it was was a cracked fuel line that allowed air into the fuel when demand was greatest. Letting it idle allowed the air to pass and then the fuel would come back into play. I was able to cut off the steel line and reinstall the flex and no more problem!
Everything you looked at or touched was broken. lol It is 25.5 years old but still... It took wayyyy longer to run that starter trigger wire, fab a switch plate, and install the switch than it would have to pull the steering wheel and replace the ignition switch. 😅
Shops looking great Ray!!! I'm happy for you and wish you continued growth and success.
This video is supreme with an older video!!!! Great work!!!