Great video David! Love the new addititions like the cartoon images. This topic of cofermentation really is something I must try. I look forward to seeing where else you take it too.
Hey David, I just brewed this yesterday and can’t wait to taste it in a few weeks. I noticed activity in the airlock after just 2-3 hours in the fermenter! Thanks for everything you’re doing on this channel 😊
THX for the recipe, have been looking for the belgian dubbel for a while... I have allready made your Kolsch and Vienna Lager, now just waiting to taste them when the carbonation is over...
Thanks for sharing this. I'm about to brew my first batch and I've been binging on videos and beer brewing books. This was very educational.. 5 stars from this subscriber. 👍🏼 Tc Stay safe
I like to add the candi sugar at te begining of the boil for dark beers in the hopes to get some caramelization, and the clear one at the end to avoid any darkening of those sugar, note that I boil for 120 minutes for any "trappist, style
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'll try using more than one strain next time, it's always good to learn new skills and yeast blending sounds like a really useful one
I jumped on this one, can’t wait to try. Mine fermented out in three days but will leave it on the cake for 10 roughly..depending on my patience. Day 5 atm.
Thanks for your recipe. Please share Dubbel aging experience if you have one. I've tried aging it for 4, 6 and 12 months (glass bottles, 12-14 degrees celcius). 4 months didn't give much difference in the taste profile. 6 month aging brought much more complexity in taste, though generally the beer became smooth and more drinkable. Still waiting for my 12 month bottle to finish aging in July.
Thanks Dmitry. In my experience anywhere from 6 months is about right if done in bulk. This can vary and of course personal taste also comes into play greatly here.
Hi David, I’ve reached the end of fermentation and I’ve bottled today. However there has been a strong sulphur smell throughout fermentation. Not used Kveik yeast before. Beer tastes ok going in to the bottles. We’ll see what it comes out like.
Hi David, very nice video of one of my favorite beer styles! A small question. How do you know that 10% Munich does effect and boost the dark fruit flavors etc. also the other malts. Is it just knowledge or do you know it by checking the recipy software and what that does with flavors? So finetuning the % of the malts with the software? Thanks for sharing this very nice video and recipe!
Many thanks Chris. Much of the knowledge here comes from experience and experimentation. Reading malt descriptions can only give you so much but it can be valuable also. Brewing software certainly speeds up the process :)
David you use a hop spider to avoid scorching the Candi sugar. Why not do the same with all hop boiling additions too? Do you not experience any mesh filter clogging due to all the hop matter on the bottom of the GrainFather?
I use a false bottom on my GF, which provides a great solution. Having said this even when I didnt then I found that a whirlpool cured this nicely. Sugar presents more of an issue of course.
Per usual this video made me thirsty! I’ve not through the Belgian style beer in far too long I’m thinking. I also love the new character, remind me not to arm wrestle you! Lol 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks Bradley, it made me thirsty also! I just love the Belgian beer styles! Glad you like the new cartoons. I had a guy on Fiverr make them. The one with beer I got in various colours.
Hiya David. Just to let you know that I have just opened my first bottle of this brew and it is sensational! Thanks again for a fantastic recipe and the concept of co-fermentation. Its smoother than the Belgian Blonde as it hasn't got the acidity of the orange.(not that the acidity of the orange is a bad thing). The special B malt gives it a real rich and deep flavour. A real winter warmer! I'm assuming I can use co-fermentation when I repeat your Belgian Blonde? Just wondering as if not I'll have to put a brew on soon for it to be ready for June!
Sorry for some reason your comment was put in a spam bin!! Great to hear, sounds like you nailed it. You can use cofermentation with all recipes. It is especially useful with kveik for stonger beers that usually take longer to condition though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew is that why you’re co-pitching on this one? To get it conditioned faster? Or there’s also other characteristics you’re looking for?
Hi David, as always, love the video. I'm curious about aging in the keg and have a couple of questions 1) you mention adding pressure to the keg, I assume to keep a good seal. Do you need to keep topping this up as the CO2 absorbs over the four weeks or do you find it hold it? 2) If you bottle from the keg do you just add priming sugar as usual? Is bottling yeast required? 3) If serving from the keg do you transfer to another keg or just put it in your keggerator and serve once force carbed? Thanks!
Hi Brian, great to hear :) 1) Yes, you need a perfect seal in the keg. No need to add more co2 in the vital thing is to not have any oxygen as this will reduce the beers life cycle. 2) You can carbonate in the keg and then transfer to bottles. Be sure to have more carbonation in the keg than you need in the bottle to allow for any losses. 3) No need to transfer. I hope this helps 🍻
Thanks David. Nice recipe, I’m brewing one up now. Quick question - how much carbonation do you add while conditioning? Can you condition and carbonate at the same time? Thanks man and keep up the great work. Cheers, or rather, Skål!
Cheers. While conditioning I just have it under 10-12 PSI of pressure, which at room temps isnt really going to make much difference. Carbonation needs lower temps which will slow the conditioning down.
Just started a batch yesterday, the dark candi sugar is derived from beet and date sugar. Im very interested in how it turns out as I've only made the lighter Belgian beers like wheat beer and triple.
Hi David. Very informative video as usual. If using a corny keg as a secondary and assuming I've done a closed transfer, once I burp the keg a few times to clear the headspace does the keg just get left sealed without any type of airlock? Thanks Andrew
Hi David, great video of one of my favorite styles! I’ll certainly try co-fermentation in my next Dubbel, I did the last one with Fermentis T-58 only, next time I’ll co-pitch BE-256 to get more attenuation. I have a question, how are you calculating the BU:GU range? I did 15IBU/62GU=0.24 and 25IBU/75GU=0.33 to come up with the range when I designed my recipe a few months ago, your 0.3-0.52 range seems to be much higher?
Thank you. Yes, trying co-fermentation is a great way to go. The BU:GU range is available in Brewfather in the style window and you can find it online also via BJCP sources. I have Brewfather calculate BU:GU for all my recipes.
Hi David. Great vid. WIth Kveik fermenting so fast and furiously, aren't you worried that it would just overtake the Abbey Ale and not give it much of a chance to offer its potential? Would it not be better to add the Kveik three days in say? Cheers.
Thanks :) . Do keep in mind that I spent a lot of time testing this before sharing. I actually started the way you suggested and then tried various other ways to find what works best. As long as people stay with the temperature and pitch rate then all will go perfectly to plan :)
Hi David, love your recipes and videos! For condition this one, I don’t have the option of a “cold room” @ 16C to leave the keg in. I can either leave it at room temp around 22C or stick in refrigerator at around 7C. Which would work best for this? Thanks!
Nice, just in time for me as i m hoping to brew a dubble in the next weeks. I have a question about the sugar, the D180 candysugar contains date sugar says on the packet. Have you ever tried brewing with store bought date syrup? I have made my own candy sugar before and was thinking of adding date sugar.
Great. Yes dark syrups can be very useful for this style. The problem usually is working out how much to use. Syrups designed for brewing use will give a weight to liquid conversion.
Great video David, I will try this recipe out as I have of a number of your recipes before. Do you cold crash for clarity or for a safer transfer to keg on this one? I regularly do so unless advised not to.
Many thanks Thomas. I used Irish moss and a short cold crash for clarity. If you can perform an enclosed transfer to a keg then this will certainly help preserve freshness and longer life.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I use protafloc in the boil and ferment in buckets when not under pressure. I do add a CO2 “balloon” and attach it to the airlock so when the beer cools it won’t suck in air to the fermentation vessel. I do closed transfer to the keg which is filled with CO2, I let out the pressure and connect the gas line from the empty keg to be filled to the fermentation vessel and as I transfer the beer to the keg through the beer post the remaining CO2 from the keg is transferred to the fermentation vessel and this is how I prevent air to be introduced to the beer. It’s worked like a charm after my very first transfer when I forgot to release the CO2 pressure in the keg before connecting the CO2 line to the fermentation bucket, that time the lid flew up a meter in the air with a bang! No spill, and still good beer! 😂
Hi David, I don’t like banana esters but otherwise like fruity and spicy character in Belgian beers. Can you recommend a Belgian yeast that has character but no banana flavour? Thanks, Adam
Another great video! I’m interested to try this however I don’t have any way of temperature controlling my fermentation. Would that be a deal breaker with this brew? I currently use a Kveik for everything so I can stick the fermenter in the airing cupboard at around 30 degrees but my house probably sits between 18 and 22 depending on the time of day.
Thanks Lee. Really I would suggest getting temp control. This is because the Belgian yeast needs this stability. A simple Inkbird temp controller and a heat belt can do it if you have a cool temp area to put it in.
Hello. I'm brewing this beer this week. In the video you said the final ferm temp is 76. But in the recipe you say 73. Just wondering which you think is best. I've never used either yeast, but I am adventurous. Thank you. Love your channel.
hi there david et al, I plan to do this fairly shortly. Don't as yet have kegs so would you suggest a carboy for 4-8 weeks post fermentation to condition? room temp for conditioning? thanks joe
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the information. I make candi syrup myself just to save some cash (Bergen is expensive) I suppose it wouldn't be too different to cardi sugar. 👍👍
Hi David, thanks for another great video! What would happen if I add the candi sugar just towards the end of primary fermentation? Would I lose some flavors in the profile? Cheers! ☺️
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So there is no risk that the yeast would get „lazy“ consuming the invert sugar first and don‘t process the maltose in full later? I don‘t put usually more than 10% invert sugar in the grain bill...
Hi David. What would be the impact of not conditioning on keg/carboy after fermentation and go straight to bottling phase? Would bottle conditioning achieve the same results?
Hello, I will be brewing your Quadruple recipe soon and would you say that that recipe would also benefit with switching the ‘Pale malt’ to ‘Pilsner malt’ as you suggest in this video? Cheers!
Hi David, thank you for this and all of these videos. I've been researching co-fermentation for a bit so this is timely. My only question re this video concerns pitching rates. Won't 2 full packets of yeast be a big overpitch ? When I saw you were doing this on this beer, I was curious to see what your yeast blend ratio would be to get the flavour of the Belgian and the functionality of the Kveik but I didn't quite expect the final choice. Any thoughts ?
Thanks Kevin. On a beer this strong then no. It is over 1,060 which is where dry yeast companies give the advice of more yeast being needed. The kveik used here is also Lallemands own formulation, in line with regular pitching rates. Ive used this pitch rate quite a number of times when tweaking this recipe and I have had no issues at all.
Thanks for the typically prompt reply. Understood. I'm curious as to what you think the blend ratio might be for having the functional effect of the kveik in a yeast blend putting aside questions of the total cell count. Do you think a full 50/50 with the belgian yeast would always be required or would less of the Kveik be sufficient for it to bring its clean up magic ? Maybe you have done some blend ratio experiments as part of your prep work... For the moment, I've read lots but not yet done the experiment..
I've done all I can to keep the process simple. I would only venture into more complexity if really needed. I've tried half packets but mostly I've experimented with when to add each yeast. Kveik turned that on it's head some as you now know.
Hey David! I have watched this over and over. Finally, I am brewing this bad boy next weekend!! I can only access MJ M12 Kveik Yeast in my country. Do you suggest to use it or 2 packs of BE-256? Also can i use corn flakes (the ones for the breakfast) instead of flaked maize. I can't find it too :(
@@DavidHeathHomebrew hey david, it's me again. i think i made a mistake somewhere. i recently kegged mine but it has harsh off flavor that masks everything else. acetaldehyde is the problem i guess. fermentation temp was 20 then i raised to 23 slowly at the end. is there anyway to fix? more waiting maybe? i would really appreciate any suggestion. (2 weeks fermentation, 2 weeks condition time around 16 degree in keg)
Thank you. This pairing I have done a lot with. Pitch both at the start at 25. Hold this for 3-5 days. Go to 28C at 1C per day. Even the stronger styles will likely be done in 7/8 days max. For anything not strong use 3 days for first step. I am sharing these findings and much more soon with my triple guide.
I love this brewery and agree! I have been there a number of times and always come back with some special editions. They have a nice tour that never gets boring either :)
Your beers sometimes have this beautiful orange hue. I tried getting there with your neipa recipe but it got more brownish - looking rather muddy. Do you happen to know if the pilsner/pale ale malt used does show that much variation based on provider?
Thanks Fabian. That orange hue starts out brown and muddy. It falls out as part of finding clarity. I always use Irish moss in the boil and most of my beers are kept cold in the keg plus I use floating dip tubes with filters for serving. I have a video coming this month about this :)
Theres a difference in malt colour from one malster to the other, usually it's not really dramatic, but I guess it can have an effect over the final colour. As an example, I used to use Weyermann pils a lot, which is around 3.3 EBC, now I use pilsner malt from a "local" malster that grows it's own barley, the colour sits around 3.5 EBC although it can vary from batch to batch (I think the batch I have now is 5 EBC) as it's a certainly small operation. So as you can see there's a difference but I think it's negligible in this case
Sorry David a noob question here. When you say substitute the malts with the closest you can find, lets's say the EBC of one of the malts I have is twice what you have, do I scale the amount I use in Brewfather to match EBC's and if I do will that affect the taste ?
Hey Ditch, I actually think this is a great question! Ideally you should sub as close in colour effect as you can. Especially in examples of low EBC as these malts also add in background flavours that are unlike the darker crystal malts. So for the carapils in this recipe you could go up to 10 EBC with a similar flavour result and reduce the amount used. But the result would be very different if you used something like a 30 EBC crystal and then colour matched it.
Many thanks David, I was thinking of having a go at your Directors clone, the EBC of the crystal you use in that one is 330 but mine here is 150, so it looks like I'm going to have to get some in that is a bi of a closer match. I like your clear explanations in your vids, it makes things easier for us noobs
@@ditch3202 On the higher end of the EBC range then this will work better. Though that is a large jump. Can you not obtain anything closer? Quite often it is best to simply buy more in :)
Hi David! I am co fermenting the Belgian Dubbel! Did my candi and got 1.057 OG. Now, after a week, reading is 1.012. Two things I would like to ask you. Fermentation started soon and strong. Smell is also strong and kind of sour. Is it normal? Also taste a bit sour. How was in yous recipe? I will increase Temp gradualy for three days and transfer to secundary.
Sorry for the late reply Marcelo, for some reason this was not flagged to me by UA-cam. I have not experienced the sour smell or taste that you mention. Have you looked at your water profile?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much David!! Yes, I did some adjustments to the water profile using Brewfather app. Now carbonating!! Will see in a couple of days!! Cheers
Hi David, fellow brewers. I brewed this exact recipe last week, only I used WLP500 for my abbey yeast, but I did use the same Voss Kveik (fermentation started about 50hours ago) I had an OG of 1.063 and currently my gravity is reading 0.991. Few details, my temp control broke somewhere just before this brew so sadly the temp had a free rise until 27C (80F) after 24hours now its back down at 22c (71F). Has anyone had such an over attenuation before, its my first time Co-pitching yeasts, could this be what caused it?
Hi Jasper, two thoughts here:- 1) Take another gravity reading to confirm this. Just to be sure. What are you using for measurement? 2) If this is the case then it could well be that a wild yeast joined the party. Certainly the intended yeast types are not that high attenuating.
The EBC/SRM listed here does not match the BJCP. They say 10-17srm. This recipe is way way darker. Im new to brewing and trying to figure this out in Brewfather. It keeps giving almost 40srm 🤷♂️.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I can see why. I dont know why home brew shops dont stock them though. It's not that difficult to get when you can buy bulk. Home gamers may not want to but 500g minimum though.
It's more a case of distributors. Everything needs to be ordered on contract so really it is safer to go for what you know will sell. Saaz for example is cheap and has high demand.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yeah saaz is usually available but some of the other noble hops can sometimes be a little trickier. I order french hops directly from the co-op in alsace and that has been pretty cheap and painless. It's been some time now though. I have been looking for Strisselspalt there lately but aparently it's all bought up by commercial breweries before it's even budded.
You can use most types of fermenters but you will need heating and a temperature controller. This is really a minimal acceptable fermentation set up and can be placed in a cool area avoiding the need for cooling.
Hey Dave I've just made your quad and used voss to ferment it but I feel like it has too much of an alcohol flavor I think it's due to the yeast (fermented at 30C) and co fermentation looks like the solution to this What do you think? Is a more proper yeast for the style gonna reduce that alcohol flavor?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok so do you reckon that co fermentation as a solution is worth a shot? Cause I feel like maybe the proper yeast could give it a different flavor and make this alcoholic taste not as strong
I think this is more a case of this beer needing more time, though it could be yeast stress. Co-fermentation would certainly give a nice result but you still need to age and ensure that the yeast is healthy and happy.
To be honest I wont put maize any of my beers. To much P.T.S.D from my country shi*y beers. They put maize almost every beer. We even have a Spaten and Löwenbrau licence beer (the name is the same) that they brew it with maize. Blahh
Great video David! Love the new addititions like the cartoon images. This topic of cofermentation really is something I must try. I look forward to seeing where else you take it too.
Many thanks Alan. I am glad you enjoyed it :) The next guide will cover the Belgian Triple with my Co-fermentation findings.
man you're in my head lately! was just writing a dubbel recipe. glad to see this
Haha, nice. I just released a Tripel guide also :)
I really enjoy using all saaz for all my belgian brews. Best noble and spice flavors and aromas
Yes, Saaz is a hop that I really favour :)
Hello Davis! Thank you very much fir such a detailed video RECEPY. Recently brewed Belgian Pale Ale, bottled ONE week ago... next one might be DUBBEL!
Cheers, enjoy 🍻🍻😎
Hey David, I just brewed this yesterday and can’t wait to taste it in a few weeks. I noticed activity in the airlock after just 2-3 hours in the fermenter! Thanks for everything you’re doing on this channel 😊
Cheers Chris, enjoy 🍻🍻🍻
Best beer style. Great video
Many thanks John.
I love your Triple and today iam giving this Dubbel recipie a try! 🍺😊 Thank you for shareing!
Cheers Marco, I love this one myself :)
THX for the recipe, have been looking for the belgian dubbel for a while...
I have allready made your Kolsch and Vienna Lager, now just waiting to taste them when the carbonation is over...
Thanks Stig. I hope that you enjoy them as much as everyone else :)
Thanks for sharing this.
I'm about to brew my first batch and I've been binging on videos and beer brewing books.
This was very educational..
5 stars from this subscriber.
👍🏼
Tc
Stay safe
Welcome to the best hobby ever :) I am very glad my videos have been helpful :)
Brilliant video David!!!
I shall be brewing this style at some point this year and this video will help me write a recipe.
Thank you David👍👍👍
Thank you :) Tripel guide is coming soon!
This was very good and detail video 👍 I love belgian recipe, definitely on my to do list. Thanks for your effort and for sharing the recipe👍👍
Many thanks Allan, much appreciated. Belgian Tripel is coming soon :)
Killing it again! BOOM!! GREAT JOB!
Many thanks Jamie, much appreciated :)
I like to add the candi sugar at te begining of the boil for dark beers in the hopes to get some caramelization, and the clear one at the end to avoid any darkening of those sugar, note that I boil for 120 minutes for any "trappist, style
Yes, that is a good way to go :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'll try using more than one strain next time, it's always good to learn new skills and yeast blending sounds like a really useful one
Go for it :)
I jumped on this one, can’t wait to try.
Mine fermented out in three days but will leave it on the cake for 10 roughly..depending on my patience. Day 5 atm.
Great, let me know what you think after some conditioning time and tasting :)
Thanks for your recipe. Please share Dubbel aging experience if you have one. I've tried aging it for 4, 6 and 12 months (glass bottles, 12-14 degrees celcius). 4 months didn't give much difference in the taste profile. 6 month aging brought much more complexity in taste, though generally the beer became smooth and more drinkable. Still waiting for my 12 month bottle to finish aging in July.
Thanks Dmitry. In my experience anywhere from 6 months is about right if done in bulk. This can vary and of course personal taste also comes into play greatly here.
Hi David, I’ve reached the end of fermentation and I’ve bottled today. However there has been a strong sulphur smell throughout fermentation. Not used Kveik yeast before. Beer tastes ok going in to the bottles. We’ll see what it comes out like.
You should be fine, fingers crossed 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, very nice video of one of my favorite beer styles! A small question. How do you know that 10% Munich does effect and boost the dark fruit flavors etc. also the other malts. Is it just knowledge or do you know it by checking the recipy software and what that does with flavors? So finetuning the % of the malts with the software?
Thanks for sharing this very nice video and recipe!
Many thanks Chris. Much of the knowledge here comes from experience and experimentation. Reading malt descriptions can only give you so much but it can be valuable also. Brewing software certainly speeds up the process :)
David you use a hop spider to avoid scorching the Candi sugar. Why not do the same with all hop boiling additions too? Do you not experience any mesh filter clogging due to all the hop matter on the bottom of the GrainFather?
I use a false bottom on my GF, which provides a great solution. Having said this even when I didnt then I found that a whirlpool cured this nicely. Sugar presents more of an issue of course.
Per usual this video made me thirsty! I’ve not through the Belgian style beer in far too long I’m thinking. I also love the new character, remind me not to arm wrestle you! Lol 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks Bradley, it made me thirsty also! I just love the Belgian beer styles! Glad you like the new cartoons. I had a guy on Fiverr make them. The one with beer I got in various colours.
This is going to be my first brow 👍🏻
Great, I hope you enjoy it :)
Awesome video! David, do you recommend any recipe/video to learn how to make candy sugar? Greetings
Thank you. I see so many out there that all seem to have it right. It's a very easy process.
Hiya David. Just to let you know that I have just opened my first bottle of this brew and it is sensational! Thanks again for a fantastic recipe and the concept of co-fermentation. Its smoother than the Belgian Blonde as it hasn't got the acidity of the orange.(not that the acidity of the orange is a bad thing). The special B malt gives it a real rich and deep flavour. A real winter warmer! I'm assuming I can use co-fermentation when I repeat your Belgian Blonde? Just wondering as if not I'll have to put a brew on soon for it to be ready for June!
Sorry for some reason your comment was put in a spam bin!! Great to hear, sounds like you nailed it. You can use cofermentation with all recipes. It is especially useful with kveik for stonger beers that usually take longer to condition though.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew is that why you’re co-pitching on this one? To get it conditioned faster? Or there’s also other characteristics you’re looking for?
Hi David, as always, love the video. I'm curious about aging in the keg and have a couple of questions 1) you mention adding pressure to the keg, I assume to keep a good seal. Do you need to keep topping this up as the CO2 absorbs over the four weeks or do you find it hold it? 2) If you bottle from the keg do you just add priming sugar as usual? Is bottling yeast required? 3) If serving from the keg do you transfer to another keg or just put it in your keggerator and serve once force carbed? Thanks!
Hi Brian, great to hear :)
1) Yes, you need a perfect seal in the keg.
No need to add more co2 in the vital thing is to not have any oxygen as this will reduce the beers life cycle.
2) You can carbonate in the keg and then transfer to bottles. Be sure to have more carbonation in the keg than you need in the bottle to allow for any losses.
3) No need to transfer.
I hope this helps 🍻
Thanks David. Nice recipe, I’m brewing one up now. Quick question - how much carbonation do you add while conditioning? Can you condition and carbonate at the same time? Thanks man and keep up the great work. Cheers, or rather, Skål!
Cheers. While conditioning I just have it under 10-12 PSI of pressure, which at room temps isnt really going to make much difference. Carbonation needs lower temps which will slow the conditioning down.
hi congratulations for everything you share...I wanted to ask about co-fermentation with Kveik Voss yeast, can it also be used with liquid yeast?
Thank you. Yes, there is no problem with using liquid yeast in all the same ways you can with dry yeast.
Just started a batch yesterday, the dark candi sugar is derived from beet and date sugar. Im very interested in how it turns out as I've only made the lighter Belgian beers like wheat beer and triple.
I love this style and I hope you agree after trying this one 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. Very informative video as usual. If using a corny keg as a secondary and assuming I've done a closed transfer, once I burp the keg a few times to clear the headspace does the keg just get left sealed without any type of airlock? Thanks Andrew
Thank you. Yes, I suggest storing like this. I usually have it under one bar of pressure.
Hi David, great video of one of my favorite styles! I’ll certainly try co-fermentation in my next Dubbel, I did the last one with Fermentis T-58 only, next time I’ll co-pitch BE-256 to get more attenuation. I have a question, how are you calculating the BU:GU range? I did 15IBU/62GU=0.24 and 25IBU/75GU=0.33 to come up with the range when I designed my recipe a few months ago, your 0.3-0.52 range seems to be much higher?
Thank you. Yes, trying co-fermentation is a great way to go. The BU:GU range is available in Brewfather in the style window and you can find it online also via BJCP sources. I have Brewfather calculate BU:GU for all my recipes.
Just asking if you could include usual CO2 volume in future videos? There is some tables to be found about this, but it would be nice extra.
Thanks for the suggestion Eetu. I will look into this :)
Hi David. Great vid. WIth Kveik fermenting so fast and furiously, aren't you worried that it would just overtake the Abbey Ale and not give it much of a chance to offer its potential? Would it not be better to add the Kveik three days in say? Cheers.
Thanks :) . Do keep in mind that I spent a lot of time testing this before sharing. I actually started the way you suggested and then tried various other ways to find what works best. As long as people stay with the temperature and pitch rate then all will go perfectly to plan :)
Hi David, love your recipes and videos! For condition this one, I don’t have the option of a “cold room” @ 16C to leave the keg in. I can either leave it at room temp around 22C or stick in refrigerator at around 7C. Which would work best for this? Thanks!
Thanks Alex. The 22C room would be the best option here.
Nice, just in time for me as i m hoping to brew a dubble in the next weeks. I have a question about the sugar, the D180 candysugar contains date sugar says on the packet.
Have you ever tried brewing with store bought date syrup? I have made my own candy sugar before and was thinking of adding date sugar.
Great. Yes dark syrups can be very useful for this style. The problem usually is working out how much to use. Syrups designed for brewing use will give a weight to liquid conversion.
Great video David, I will try this recipe out as I have of a number of your recipes before. Do you cold crash for clarity or for a safer transfer to keg on this one? I regularly do so unless advised not to.
Many thanks Thomas. I used Irish moss and a short cold crash for clarity. If you can perform an enclosed transfer to a keg then this will certainly help preserve freshness and longer life.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I use protafloc in the boil and ferment in buckets when not under pressure. I do add a CO2 “balloon” and attach it to the airlock so when the beer cools it won’t suck in air to the fermentation vessel. I do closed transfer to the keg which is filled with CO2, I let out the pressure and connect the gas line from the empty keg to be filled to the fermentation vessel and as I transfer the beer to the keg through the beer post the remaining CO2 from the keg is transferred to the fermentation vessel and this is how I prevent air to be introduced to the beer. It’s worked like a charm after my very first transfer when I forgot to release the CO2 pressure in the keg before connecting the CO2 line to the fermentation bucket, that time the lid flew up a meter in the air with a bang! No spill, and still good beer! 😂
Yes, which ever equipment you use will dictate your method. The important thing is to recognise the areas where care is needed.
Hi David!! Great video!! Thank you for sharing!! I will try this recipe!! I have a question. Maize flakes and corn flakes are same?
Thank you :) They can be. Just avoid the cereal versions that have all sorts of sugar and nasties added. You want the natural version .
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much David!! Do you have any vídeo on how to prepare candy sugar?
:) No, I see that so many have already done this well. I would rather add value with new content.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much David!!
:)
Hi David, I don’t like banana esters but otherwise like fruity and spicy character in Belgian beers.
Can you recommend a Belgian yeast that has character but no banana flavour?
Thanks, Adam
Take a look at LALBREW ABBAYE. Really interesting flavour profile.
Another great video! I’m interested to try this however I don’t have any way of temperature controlling my fermentation. Would that be a deal breaker with this brew? I currently use a Kveik for everything so I can stick the fermenter in the airing cupboard at around 30 degrees but my house probably sits between 18 and 22 depending on the time of day.
Thanks Lee. Really I would suggest getting temp control. This is because the Belgian yeast needs this stability. A simple Inkbird temp controller and a heat belt can do it if you have a cool temp area to put it in.
👏Another excellent video. Your opinion on using LALBREW® ABBAYE BELGIAN STYLE ALE YEAST rather than the Fermentis Abbey Ale BE256?
Many thanks Andy. As I understand it these are both very similar, so no problems there I should think.
Hello. I'm brewing this beer this week. In the video you said the final ferm temp is 76. But in the recipe you say 73. Just wondering which you think is best. I've never used either yeast, but I am adventurous. Thank you. Love your channel.
Hi, 73 should be enough but 76 will not hurt :)
hi there david et al, I plan to do this fairly shortly. Don't as yet have kegs so would you suggest a carboy for 4-8 weeks post fermentation to condition? room temp for conditioning? thanks joe
Hi Joe, yes that would work nicely. Just be sure to fill it to the bottom of the neck to avoid issues with oxidation.
Hello David. Would it hurt to condition in a keg at room temperature after primary fermentation?
As long as the room temperature is not anything extreme, then sure :)
Fantastic video, I'll be making this soon. Quick question, would there be any difference in % between candi sugar and candi syrup?👍👍👍
Thanks Richard. They can vary. I tend to buy sugar personally. Most liquid manufacturers will offer conversion data.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the information. I make candi syrup myself just to save some cash (Bergen is expensive) I suppose it wouldn't be too different to cardi sugar. 👍👍
You could let it set and then it becomes sugar :) I used to live in Bergen, yes it sure is but a great place to live for sure.
Hi David, nice video as always! How would you recommend to adjust the pitching rate if making a small batch of 12 L to fermenter?
Just half the amount.
Thanks Espen :) I suggest adjusting it proportionally at these levels.
Hi David, thanks for another great video! What would happen if I add the candi sugar just towards the end of primary fermentation? Would I lose some flavors in the profile? Cheers! ☺️
You will focus more on the flavours of the sugar by doing this. It's not really a popular way to go but you could try it :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So there is no risk that the yeast would get „lazy“ consuming the invert sugar first and don‘t process the maltose in full later? I don‘t put usually more than 10% invert sugar in the grain bill...
I have not had any issues personally and this has been trialed more that a few times now.
Hi David. What would be the impact of not conditioning on keg/carboy after fermentation and go straight to bottling phase? Would bottle conditioning achieve the same results?
Hi Nuno, alcohol based drinks condition much faster in bulk amounts. So conditioning in the bottle will slow this process.
Hello,
I will be brewing your Quadruple recipe soon and would you say that that recipe would also benefit with switching the ‘Pale malt’ to ‘Pilsner malt’ as you suggest in this video?
Cheers!
Hi Bor, No I believe that one is better as is :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Will stick to the original recipe then 😊
Thank you for replying and sharing your extensive experience and knowledge! 🍻
Great, thank you :)
What about adding coriander/cilantro or orange peel? I see a few recipes out there with them added in last part of the boil.
You can do but it is not really the norm for this particular Belgian style.
Hi David, thank you for this and all of these videos. I've been researching co-fermentation for a bit so this is timely. My only question re this video concerns pitching rates. Won't 2 full packets of yeast be a big overpitch ? When I saw you were doing this on this beer, I was curious to see what your yeast blend ratio would be to get the flavour of the Belgian and the functionality of the Kveik but I didn't quite expect the final choice. Any thoughts ?
Thanks Kevin. On a beer this strong then no. It is over 1,060 which is where dry yeast companies give the advice of more yeast being needed. The kveik used here is also Lallemands own formulation, in line with regular pitching rates. Ive used this pitch rate quite a number of times when tweaking this recipe and I have had no issues at all.
Thanks for the typically prompt reply. Understood. I'm curious as to what you think the blend ratio might be for having the functional effect of the kveik in a yeast blend putting aside questions of the total cell count. Do you think a full 50/50 with the belgian yeast would always be required or would less of the Kveik be sufficient for it to bring its clean up magic ? Maybe you have done some blend ratio experiments as part of your prep work... For the moment, I've read lots but not yet done the experiment..
I've done all I can to keep the process simple. I would only venture into more complexity if really needed. I've tried half packets but mostly I've experimented with when to add each yeast. Kveik turned that on it's head some as you now know.
Hey David! I have watched this over and over. Finally, I am brewing this bad boy next weekend!! I can only access MJ M12 Kveik Yeast in my country. Do you suggest to use it or 2 packs of BE-256? Also can i use corn flakes (the ones for the breakfast) instead of flaked maize. I can't find it too :(
Great. That kveik will be great. One pack of each. Corn flakes are fine, go for a natural version without added sugars.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks a lot! Appreciate your support! ☺️
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew hey david, it's me again. i think i made a mistake somewhere. i recently kegged mine but it has harsh off flavor that masks everything else. acetaldehyde is the problem i guess. fermentation temp was 20 then i raised to 23 slowly at the end. is there anyway to fix? more waiting maybe? i would really appreciate any suggestion. (2 weeks fermentation, 2 weeks condition time around 16 degree in keg)
What temperature did you ferment the kveik at?
Great video David !!! What do you think mixing MJ m31 with Voss on a tripel and what fermentation temp do you recommend?
Thank you. This pairing I have done a lot with. Pitch both at the start at 25. Hold this for 3-5 days. Go to 28C at 1C per day. Even the stronger styles will likely be done in 7/8 days max. For anything not strong use 3 days for first step. I am sharing these findings and much more soon with my triple guide.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew You are awesome. Thank you your answer, I really appreciate your work !!!!
No problem :) Enjoy :)
Hi David! I am thinking about this recipe but I don't find the yeast be-256. Could you recommend me another similar? Many thanks.
This is a fermentis yeast that should be easy to obtain. Its an abbey strain. Lallemands LalBrew Abbaye will also work well.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew M47 Mangrove Jack's?
Yes, I think that will also work 🍻🍻🍻
I thought Halve Maan's (Brugse Zot and Straafe Hendrik) 1 2 3 & 4 are among the better i have tried. Especially the darker ones.
I love this brewery and agree! I have been there a number of times and always come back with some special editions. They have a nice tour that never gets boring either :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I hope to go one day. I'm usually not a big fan of brown belgian strong beer but both of theirs are great.
After the pandemic this is for sure a great place to go. Naturally there are other great beer related places in Brugge also :)
Your beers sometimes have this beautiful orange hue. I tried getting there with your neipa recipe but it got more brownish - looking rather muddy. Do you happen to know if the pilsner/pale ale malt used does show that much variation based on provider?
Thanks Fabian. That orange hue starts out brown and muddy. It falls out as part of finding clarity. I always use Irish moss in the boil and most of my beers are kept cold in the keg plus I use floating dip tubes with filters for serving. I have a video coming this month about this :)
Theres a difference in malt colour from one malster to the other, usually it's not really dramatic, but I guess it can have an effect over the final colour.
As an example, I used to use Weyermann pils a lot, which is around 3.3 EBC, now I use pilsner malt from a "local" malster that grows it's own barley, the colour sits around 3.5 EBC although it can vary from batch to batch (I think the batch I have now is 5 EBC) as it's a certainly small operation. So as you can see there's a difference but I think it's negligible in this case
Yes, absolutely. It can vary also from the same maltster also.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks I will keep an eye on it :)
:)
Would you recommend carbonating bottles at 16 degrees also? Or should I keep the bottles at 23 degrees also?
Hi Jens, I would suggest a higher temperature to be sure :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thank you.
🍻🍻🍻
Sorry David a noob question here. When you say substitute the malts with the closest you can find, lets's say the EBC of one of the malts I have is twice what you have, do I scale the amount I use in Brewfather to match EBC's and if I do will that affect the taste ?
Hey Ditch, I actually think this is a great question! Ideally you should sub as close in colour effect as you can. Especially in examples of low EBC as these malts also add in background flavours that are unlike the darker crystal malts. So for the carapils in this recipe you could go up to 10 EBC with a similar flavour result and reduce the amount used. But the result would be very different if you used something like a 30 EBC crystal and then colour matched it.
Many thanks David, I was thinking of having a go at your Directors clone, the EBC of the crystal you use in that one is 330 but mine here is 150, so it looks like I'm going to have to get some in that is a bi of a closer match.
I like your clear explanations in your vids, it makes things easier for us noobs
@@ditch3202 On the higher end of the EBC range then this will work better. Though that is a large jump. Can you not obtain anything closer? Quite often it is best to simply buy more in :)
Have you done any yeast harvest with this method or will one yeast just overpower the other.
Some yes. The ratios will shift and mutate. This can work out very well but you will not know until you try.
Hi David! I am co fermenting the Belgian Dubbel! Did my candi and got 1.057 OG. Now, after a week, reading is 1.012. Two things I would like to ask you. Fermentation started soon and strong. Smell is also strong and kind of sour. Is it normal? Also taste a bit sour. How was in yous recipe? I will increase Temp gradualy for three days and transfer to secundary.
Sorry for the late reply Marcelo, for some reason this was not flagged to me by UA-cam. I have not experienced the sour smell or taste that you mention. Have you looked at your water profile?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much David!! Yes, I did some adjustments to the water profile using Brewfather app. Now carbonating!! Will see in a couple of days!! Cheers
I hope it goes well:)
Is there 15% of candy sugar from total amount of malts or from fermentable sugars?
15% by weight.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for explanation😊
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, fellow brewers.
I brewed this exact recipe last week, only I used WLP500 for my abbey yeast, but I did use the same Voss Kveik (fermentation started about 50hours ago) I had an OG of 1.063 and currently my gravity is reading 0.991.
Few details, my temp control broke somewhere just before this brew so sadly the temp had a free rise until 27C (80F) after 24hours now its back down at 22c (71F).
Has anyone had such an over attenuation before, its my first time Co-pitching yeasts, could this be what caused it?
Hi Jasper, two thoughts here:-
1) Take another gravity reading to confirm this. Just to be sure. What are you using for measurement?
2) If this is the case then it could well be that a wild yeast joined the party. Certainly the intended yeast types are not that high attenuating.
The EBC/SRM listed here does not match the BJCP. They say 10-17srm. This recipe is way way darker. Im new to brewing and trying to figure this out in Brewfather. It keeps giving almost 40srm 🤷♂️.
I would not worry about a recipe not matching BJCP in this way. Breweries do not and nor do homebrewers unless they are looking to enter a BJCP event.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok. Just confusing, as im VERY new to all this. Thanks 👍
Yes, I agree. Thankfully it does all slot into place after a short time of brewing for most 🍻🍻
I like aramis hops for belgian styles. Have you tried them?
Yes, I quite like them. I try to stick with hop types that people can more easily obtain and that give a great result.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I can see why. I dont know why home brew shops dont stock them though. It's not that difficult to get when you can buy bulk. Home gamers may not want to but 500g minimum though.
It's more a case of distributors. Everything needs to be ordered on contract so really it is safer to go for what you know will sell. Saaz for example is cheap and has high demand.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yeah saaz is usually available but some of the other noble hops can sometimes be a little trickier. I order french hops directly from the co-op in alsace and that has been pretty cheap and painless. It's been some time now though. I have been looking for Strisselspalt there lately but aparently it's all bought up by commercial breweries before it's even budded.
Yes, the noble hops can be more difficult. Though this year could be easier with so many breweries down sizing and closing. Very sad though of course
Hi David, one more question. In what type of container did you ferment this beer? Because of the steps at the end from 20C to 23C per day...
You can use most types of fermenters but you will need heating and a temperature controller. This is really a minimal acceptable fermentation set up and can be placed in a cool area avoiding the need for cooling.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Like a heating belt and an inkbird on a Fermzilla ?
Yes but do not put the heat belt directly on the plastic.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew What do you put inbetween? Some clothing or something ?
A towel works :)
Hey Dave
I've just made your quad and used voss to ferment it but I feel like it has too much of an alcohol flavor
I think it's due to the yeast (fermented at 30C) and co fermentation looks like the solution to this
What do you think? Is a more proper yeast for the style gonna reduce that alcohol flavor?
Hi Daniele, How long have you conditioned it for? Do you do this in bulk?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew it has been bottle conditioning since October 30
It will take much longer to condition in the bottle compared to bulk. Though I would expect it to be ok by now.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok so do you reckon that co fermentation as a solution is worth a shot? Cause I feel like maybe the proper yeast could give it a different flavor and make this alcoholic taste not as strong
I think this is more a case of this beer needing more time, though it could be yeast stress. Co-fermentation would certainly give a nice result but you still need to age and ensure that the yeast is healthy and happy.
are you have a Belgian broun ale recept? leffe broun
I've covered many things but not this yet
@@DavidHeathHomebrew We are weiting this one))
I have it on my list for this year :)
I'm Single 😍😥
Ok :)
Could be :p
To be honest I wont put maize any of my beers. To much P.T.S.D from my country shi*y beers. They put maize almost every beer. We even have a Spaten and Löwenbrau licence beer (the name is the same) that they brew it with maize. Blahh
Fair enough :)