Thank you so much for this video! I almost NEVER match row gauge and this was perfect for me. Now I can start knitting sweaters and such without having something to long or to short. I humbly appreciate all the work you put into your videos. They make learning new techniques almost effortlessly and keep, for me, knitting fun and easy.
OMG. I need to watch this several times to attempt my first gauge to measurement raglan cardigan knit flat without a pattern. Loving the process and grateful for rocking Rox to help along the way.
I am designing my own cardigan, the sleeves are hard to work out. This gave me some good insight. Three years late to the party, but thank you so much for this knowledge.! You just got another subscriber.
crumbs how did you know 😂 this has just happened to me for the first time (newish knitter) When I finished my increases the sleeve finished 2" longer than I needed. so I worked out a approximate rate of increase. I'm now going to re knit it again having done the correct maths to get an even increase. Thank you so much I love the way you explain all the techniques and issues, so clear, not just how to do it but why it works, brilliant 👍
Thank you so much. I still don't get how you make such complicated subject so simple and concise. It is such a mystery for me ! I believe it must need a lot of thinking ahead. I am sure getting NOW how swatching is essential, both for stitches and rows counts, especially on a fitted garnment. I still skip it sometimes on shawls, but I have taken the swatching and washing/drying my swatch quite seriously since I watch your videos. It sure helps a lot, but up to now I was mainly guessing approximately for the rate of decrease on my top down sleeves. THANK YOU so much for your shaping calculator worksheet ! This is so very precious. GRATITUDE !
Great video again. Many thanks for the copy of the shaping rate calculator. This is going to save me so much time...I always work it out every time as I seldom get gauge on rows.
Thank you so much. This video has been extremely helpful. I have previously used Cheryl Brunette’s more or less method, which is similar to what you have demonstrated. More often than not the result of my calculation would require me to increase on both odd and even rows. I have never been able to easily make changes, so the increases appear on the right side only. Another excellent demonstration 👍. And, on behalf of all of us who are mathematically challenged thank you for the shaping calculator.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I had wanted to post it a few weeks ago, but I wanted to make sure I explained the process and provided the calculator in a way that would be most helpful to those less mathematically inclined. :-)
Thank you for your approach. You go slowly and methodically and give us time to think through what you’re saying. You show your work. It is soooo helpful. If you’re looking for ideas, and you owe me absolutely nothing, I’d love to fully understand sweater sizes. For example, I measure me. Then I look at the pattern. Do I pick the size with the same measurements because they’ve calculated in the ease or is the pattern measurement for the actual garment and I need to add the ease I want to my measurement to pick the pattern size? Thank you!
Absolutely fantastic tutorial, your so talented Roxanne! I would love to see a tutorial on yolk depth issues on top down raglans. I always seem to have a yolk depth that is too deep which restricts arm movement and doesn't look good. I'm an advanced beginner and therefore the solution might be very obvious but not to me! 😳
It's the same solution: you recalculate the shaping rate. If your yoke is too deep then you need to figure out what depth you actually need, how many rounds that is, based on your row gauge, and therefore how frequently you need to work the increases in order to increase the stitch count to the final number over the course of the number of rounds you need for the depth. I would suggest watching the playlist of videos I did on sweater styles, which includes resources that might be helpful to you. ua-cam.com/play/PL1AZxTfSCe2fcT51YdxUkPcXXTAkwCNG4.html
I use ratios to figure rows needed by comparing my gauge to the pattern and then multiply the rows. I have to figure this all the time with my knitting machine. Since the garment can't be measured on the machine I have to know ahead of time how many rows to knit even for the front and back for every change in shape.
This is a great video, thank you so much for you explanation. Question. If I want to add 1 or 2 inches in length on a flat sleeve. Where is best to add that length, right before shaping the top if working from bottom up?? Thank you
I have this so called Knitting Math Wizard. What system are you using, and is it possible to download now a special knitting calculator? I did not see a link anywhere to the Excel calculator you used. Sorry found it.
But how do you calculate the stitches to attach to the body ? The body has a bindoff of 11 stitches, then 42 to shoulder, but the total top of the straight sleeve is 84 stitches? Help please.
I would need more information about what sort of sweater construction you're working with. I am happy to help with specific project questions in my Ravelry group. You can find a link to my group at the bottom of any one of my videos. Start a new discussion thread, and explain what sweater pattern you're working with, what the original instructions say about decreasing, and what your gauge differences are from the pattern.
I am making a raglan sweater and my row gauge is more rows per inch than the pattern indicates. The pattern has increases every right side row. How would you suggest adding in more rows on the raglan shaping in order to get the kind of length I need. I am off by about an inch. Maybe I could get away with just adding in some straight rows. It’s a top down sweater, fyi.
You need to add an inch's worth of rows over the total length of the raglan shaping. You can do this by adding an additional 2 plain rows between increase rows as you approach the underarm, so that you can maintain the incs on RS rows.
You've answered your own question: you are decreasing on the 8th row. :-) You work 7 rows even (without shaping) and on the 8th row is the decrease or increase. The reason for doing it on even row increments is so that you're always shaping on RS rows, eg. Row 1, 9, 17, 25, which is every 8 rows vs Row 1, 10,19,28 which is every 9 rows.
Thank you so much for this video! I almost NEVER match row gauge and this was perfect for me. Now I can start knitting sweaters and such without having something to long or to short. I humbly appreciate all the work you put into your videos. They make learning new techniques almost effortlessly and keep, for me, knitting fun and easy.
You are so welcome!
The best and easiest to follow explanation of calculating shaping increases ! Thank you!
OMG. I need to watch this several times to attempt my first gauge to measurement raglan cardigan knit flat without a pattern. Loving the process and grateful for rocking Rox to help along the way.
Good luck on your raglan sweater!
Thanks so much for this video.
You are so welcome!
Phew does not surprise me that I am first here. Love technique Tuesdays... ! Much needed as sweater weather is upon us....👍👏🤗
Hi Roxanne, can I just tell you I always look forward to your video every week? I learn so much from your videos.
Thanks! Your stitch increase/decrease calculator is so worth a cup of coffee!! Thank you for creating and sharing it.
I'm glad it's helpful to you! :-)
I am designing my own cardigan, the sleeves are hard to work out. This gave me some good insight. Three years late to the party, but thank you so much for this knowledge.! You just got another subscriber.
crumbs how did you know 😂 this has just happened to me for the first time (newish knitter) When I finished my increases the sleeve finished 2" longer than I needed. so I worked out a approximate rate of increase. I'm now going to re knit it again having done the correct maths to get an even increase. Thank you so much I love the way you explain all the techniques and issues, so clear, not just how to do it but why it works, brilliant 👍
owl pool, I was thinking of you whilst Roxanne was explaining this to us 😉
Roxanne, you are a woman after my own heart....I ❤️ SPREADSHEETS!
@@cathafloat1519 yes brilliant 👍 i've been watching the back catalogue and loving it 😊
Thank you so much. I still don't get how you make such complicated subject so simple and concise. It is such a mystery for me ! I believe it must need a lot of thinking ahead. I am sure getting NOW how swatching is essential, both for stitches and rows counts, especially on a fitted garnment. I still skip it sometimes on shawls, but I have taken the swatching and washing/drying my swatch quite seriously since I watch your videos. It sure helps a lot, but up to now I was mainly guessing approximately for the rate of decrease on my top down sleeves. THANK YOU so much for your shaping calculator worksheet ! This is so very precious. GRATITUDE !
I'm so glad you're understanding better how all this works. This video did take me a couple of weeks longer to plan than I expected!
Loving your explanations. So clear.
Glad you like them!
Once again a great concise technic. I really enjoyed them.
Thank you. I wish all the teacherd will be so straith forward
Great video again. Many thanks for the copy of the shaping rate calculator. This is going to save me so much time...I always work it out every time as I seldom get gauge on rows.
You are welcome!
Thank you, thank you,thank you. I am planning to convert full length sleeve to 3/4 and this is just what I need to know.
Roxanne! Thank you so much! New knitter here and so thankful for your insights and instruction. You are a Blessing! ❤🙏🏾
Great video! Going through this issue right now. I wish it was while ago. Very helpful! Thanks for sharing Roxanne💞
You are so welcome!
Exactly what I need right now. I want to change a ¾ length sleeve to full length. Thank you so much! ❤️🙏🏼❤️
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much. This video has been extremely helpful. I have previously used Cheryl Brunette’s more or less method, which is similar to what you have demonstrated. More often than not the result of my calculation would require me to increase on both odd and even rows. I have never been able to easily make changes, so the increases appear on the right side only.
Another excellent demonstration 👍. And, on behalf of all of us who are mathematically challenged thank you for the shaping calculator.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I had wanted to post it a few weeks ago, but I wanted to make sure I explained the process and provided the calculator in a way that would be most helpful to those less mathematically inclined. :-)
@@RoxanneRichardson You succeded !!!
Thank you so much for the wonderfully detailed explanation.
This was incredibly useful. Thank you so much, Roxanne.
Thank you for this valuable information. 🥰
This has been so helpful. Thank you so much
Thank you for your approach. You go slowly and methodically and give us time to think through what you’re saying. You show your work. It is soooo helpful.
If you’re looking for ideas, and you owe me absolutely nothing, I’d love to fully understand sweater sizes. For example, I measure me. Then I look at the pattern. Do I pick the size with the same measurements because they’ve calculated in the ease or is the pattern measurement for the actual garment and I need to add the ease I want to my measurement to pick the pattern size? Thank you!
Absolutely fantastic tutorial, your so talented Roxanne!
I would love to see a tutorial on yolk depth issues on top down raglans. I always seem to have a yolk depth that is too deep which restricts arm movement and doesn't look good. I'm an advanced beginner and therefore the solution might be very obvious but not to me! 😳
It's the same solution: you recalculate the shaping rate. If your yoke is too deep then you need to figure out what depth you actually need, how many rounds that is, based on your row gauge, and therefore how frequently you need to work the increases in order to increase the stitch count to the final number over the course of the number of rounds you need for the depth. I would suggest watching the playlist of videos I did on sweater styles, which includes resources that might be helpful to you. ua-cam.com/play/PL1AZxTfSCe2fcT51YdxUkPcXXTAkwCNG4.html
I can not find the link to the calculator. Thank you for this video! It's exactly what I need for my current project.
It's in the video description, in its own paragraph, right under the first, longer paragraph.
I use ratios to figure rows needed by comparing my gauge to the pattern and then multiply the rows. I have to figure this all the time with my knitting machine. Since the garment can't be measured on the machine I have to know ahead of time how many rows to knit even for the front and back for every change in shape.
very helpful!!! Thanks a lot
This is a great video, thank you so much for you explanation. Question. If I want to add 1 or 2 inches in length on a flat sleeve. Where is best to add that length, right before shaping the top if working from bottom up?? Thank you
Distribute the extra length in 2 row increments between each of the increases/decreases (depending on which direction you're knitting).
I have this so called Knitting Math Wizard. What system are you using, and is it possible to download now a special knitting calculator? I did not see a link anywhere to the Excel calculator you used. Sorry found it.
The link to the shaping calculator doesn’t open for me 😢 Would you please post a new link?
It's there. Are you logged into Google? It'll ask you to click on the button to make a copy of the sheet.
But how do you calculate the stitches to attach to the body ? The body has a bindoff of 11 stitches, then 42 to shoulder, but the total top of the straight sleeve is 84 stitches? Help please.
I would need more information about what sort of sweater construction you're working with. I am happy to help with specific project questions in my Ravelry group. You can find a link to my group at the bottom of any one of my videos. Start a new discussion thread, and explain what sweater pattern you're working with, what the original instructions say about decreasing, and what your gauge differences are from the pattern.
I am making a raglan sweater and my row gauge is more rows per inch than the pattern indicates. The pattern has increases every right side row. How would you suggest adding in more rows on the raglan shaping in order to get the kind of length I need. I am off by about an inch. Maybe I could get away with just adding in some straight rows. It’s a top down sweater, fyi.
You need to add an inch's worth of rows over the total length of the raglan shaping. You can do this by adding an additional 2 plain rows between increase rows as you approach the underarm, so that you can maintain the incs on RS rows.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much! I have blocked what I have done so far, and plan to have my son try it on before I proceed, just to be sure!
Question: when the calculator says decrease every 8th row do I work 8 rows & decrease on the 9th row, or work 7 rows & decrease on the 8th?
You've answered your own question: you are decreasing on the 8th row. :-) You work 7 rows even (without shaping) and on the 8th row is the decrease or increase. The reason for doing it on even row increments is so that you're always shaping on RS rows, eg. Row 1, 9, 17, 25, which is every 8 rows vs Row 1, 10,19,28 which is every 9 rows.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you. This always confused me on patterns.