Yes, that's the reason I did it. Resin people have cleanup processes everywhere, and FDM UA-camrs are like "I'm afraid of supports, so I print supportless egyptian sarcophagues as my minis".
This has got to be one of the best videos on FDM miniature printing in existence! Just flicking through for now but I will come back to follow your guidance and check out your makerworld. Thanks so much for showing this full process in such detail!
THanks for this. I’m currently playing with the settings. I design 3D terrain for gaming and started learning to model miniatures. I have had good luck by not paying too much attentions with some simple miniatures, but highly detailed ones. More attention needed. I will have to rewatch and take notes.
@@SneakyJoesENG Yeah, there are some crappy ones out there, but after seeing what Fat Dragon can do, I’ve been very interested in FDM. I have a resin printer already but I hate working with resin. This Bambu A1 Mini is an amazing machine. I can’t wait to get a few of my own! I’m going to bookmark this video for later so I can come back to it once I have my machine(s)! Lots of great info in here!
@@Hellvine Well, to be fair, he's the person I decided to make this tutorial because of. Fat Dragon is also very much afraid of supports, and only prints coffins (aka fdm-optimized minis), which I don't approve. He could do so much more for FDM minis development, yet he chose to ignore me and my advice.
@@SneakyJoesENG Oh I see. Well as the saying goes, “steel sharpens steel.” In a way, he’s still the reason you made this video lol :) I appreciate both of you guys. I like the fact he’s developing support-less models since it reduces the complexity and the cleanup time, but I also needed this tutorial for the more complex pieces I want to print. The more minds that are working on these problems, the better! Thank you!
You can go even lower, but I think 0.05 is a good middle ground that doesn't require tonns of external cooling - filament starts baking to stone if you use smaller layers, and quality degrades
@SneakyJoesENG you could argue the same about FDM, you guys dont talk about the fumes from heated plastic or how carbon fiber and glass filimits leave micro shards on your skin and in their air which act like asbestos. Resin is about as dangerous as the stuff i dealt with in a high school science lab.
@@odisy64 PLA that's not the cheapest blends isn't detected by any system me and my at the time friend, who works with chemicals, tested with. PLA fumes are as bad as just stale air if you don't have any ventilation in your room, and even if you have a sensor above the printer's nozzle, it's only bad during purge when it's overheated and steams. We don't print minis with glass or carbon fibers. Besides, those particles have risk of ending up in your skin only in low-quality filaments, which are cheapest and low QC. And skin sheds. Not a big deal even if you get the cheapest CF blend. FDM is really way safer than resin if you don't cheap out on your materials and have slightest glimpse of ventilation.
@SneakyJoesENG it seems like you really are trying to downplay the dangers in the CF filament, you even try to reassure yourself by telling yourself that skin sheds. I work construction, i work around much more hazardous meterial like fiber glass and industrial solvents. Most of the danger in FDM is the post processing, sand and snapping bits off produces those fibers that end up on your skin and on surfaces, when you rub them again they continue to contaminate and go airborn and because its so chemically tough it last forever in the environment. Inhaling microplastics is arguably safer. You guys really do like to ignore particulants but panic over resin fumes and skin contact. The cheapest CF is the most common one being bought, even expensive CF will have this problem.
Thank you for putting this out there! If you happen to have an ams (light) I'd suggest giving "Support interface" in PETG for PLA prints a try. Makes life a LOT easier. Some things to take notice of: - Manual purge test & adjust it accordingly. Does save a fair amount of filament. (By making the interfacing PETG you can have a zero distance between your support interface.) Top Z distance to "0" Base pattern "to your liking" I used Lighting. Base pattern spacing "2mm" ( idk ) Pattern angle "45" Top interface layers "3" Bottom interface layers "3" Interface pattern "Either Concentric or Rectalinear interlaced" Top interface spacing "0" Rest of the support settings like you did worked great. Learned this trick from printing parts to be used without defects. Of course it lend itself for flat surfaces where it'll switch filament as few times as possible. Not sure if it'll be too wasteful in this case but I'm certain that the supports will come off clean. Another tip if you have a bed-slinger like me; Turn off the damn "Reduce infill retraction". Apparently it was the caused of so many bumped prints in my case. Just turning it off does add a bit of time to the prints but now I don't have the issue of taller prints constantly failing.
Considering the amount of switches, it creates lots of purge, so I'm against using AMS to minimize support scaring. IT's also very slow process and a single mini would take 5-6x time more
Hey, you can try something similar but with 0.3mm thinnest lines without arachne and 0.8mm layer height as minimal value. In titancraft I shared my older 0.4mm profiles you can use as reference.
It can help, yes. But in general this profile looks good enough to not have lots of strings if filament is proper dry. Most of the times it's on a level that's negligeable or non-existant for me.
Quick question. I Downloaded the 3MF and Orca slicer today (monday around 17.00 CET) and watch video and go through settings from 3MF, and video does not match settings in 3MF. Did you change this 3MF allready? Most noticeably the "Small area flow compensation" is on in my 3MF and the Flow compensation Model is filled in with a lot of values. Is this new, or would I be better off deselecting and going with your video-settings?
someone found the 0.2 nozzle ;) i did not hear properly what kind of ppl that do not get strings were called from your viewpoint. if you want to i can help you get rid of those strings, since we are in the same ecosystem the changes should translate? instead of arachne that gives more variable flowrate than classic, it can give in some cases a surface defect. also it has issues like you describe here. did you know that you can manually set the outerwall size to 60% of your nozzle size and the wall generation will not give this uneven flow and arachne issues? also slicing with 0 tolerance and turning off arc is a must for details imo. great job on the custom profile i must say, we have reached pretty much 98% the same settings :P the petg is a dream for support material interface for pla, but hell for print time. good to see ppl understanding the slicers power like you do, this is a very good video for this. im old in the game but i still enjoyed it and cant argue with choice. well done sir.
Yes, I've included thinner walls in next profile iteration I did when I already recorded the video but didn't have it assembled. Nice compromise for lack of arachne, which I disabled by default now. Arc on that scale will not really do much except for making file harder for processing, I believe. It will still give fuzzy texture where it's fuzzy on the model while giving smoother lines where they must be smooth. As for strings - the ones I had are super minor and are eliminated during cleanup so not a real issue. Some other people have it more pronounced, but I think it's moisture issue in the first place. Then tweaking some retraction is also an option to consider, I didn't do the best job with it here, and just left defaults for enabled values
First of all great work! Also newbie question - I currently do not own a Bambu Labs printer but I saw some people saying that they managed to get great results with presupported minis (for resin) on the A1 mini. Have you tried it? I am hanging onto some presupported files because I'm planning to get an A1 mini but I'm running out of HDD space and I am contemplating on deleting them. Thank you for your time!
I thought about it, but due to how fdm works, it will take 2-3x more time, and I settled with my own supports I've shown here. Also it will have higher risk of failing since resin just prints layers differently.
External HD are cheap! Even thumb drives can save tons of files! Save and label all your drives...always run your PC with at least 50% free on your C drive. The engineers at my job have drilled that into my head.
Out of curiosity, how does this profile compare to the fat dragon games one? Are there different priorities/tradeoffs here? Kinda new to peinting minis (and 3d printing in general)
Hi, I didn't do a direct comparison except for seeing that Dragon is extremely afraid of supports. That was my trigger to do a video with my profile with supported minis and cleanup process - because nobody else did it.
Hi there I cannot find a link to this minis print profile on Makerworld, do you have a download for it? Thanks for the amazing video it was super helpful!
Hey, I didn't have it on makerworld, but I've ported it now. I still recommend to use orca slicer, and I haven't test the profile I've uploaded, but it's something you can try to do yourself now.
@@SneakyJoesENG thanks so much you are doing the community a great service! If I were you Id also post the video in the Bambu Lad subreddit because people there are always looking for this kind of info!
@SneakyJoesENG thanks for uploading it! However it doesn't have Arachne wall generation enabled, didn't you say in your video at 8:05 that this was very important when printing minis?
@@somerandomperson8282 Yes, I did. I also said that it should be disabled if there are issues, and immediately after making the video I've faced too many issues to consider this option safe for mass recommendation as a default. I'd rather allow people to enable it.
@@SneakyJoeRu aha cool thanks for explaining my man! I am doing a test print now (I adapted your settings to a 0.4mm nozzle) and I will let you know how it goes!
Спасибо за познавательное видео! Буквально недавно начал интересоваться данной темой, а ваше видео очень помогло мне. Хотелось бы узнать будет ли подобный гайд на русскоязычном канале?
На русском канале сейчас развиваться смысла уже нету - мало того что никакой монетизации там не будет из-за санкций, так ещё и из-за страйка от Джаззы канал в шадоубане и новые видео по хорошим темам на нём давно не взлетают как это.
If you cannot support me with donations, you can boost my profiles on makerworld to help me with free stuff:
makerworld.com/en/@SneakyJoe.Ru
Too many youtubers don’t include the lengthy clean up process. And the prints magically look finished. Thanks!
Yes, that's the reason I did it. Resin people have cleanup processes everywhere, and FDM UA-camrs are like "I'm afraid of supports, so I print supportless egyptian sarcophagues as my minis".
😂
This has got to be one of the best videos on FDM miniature printing in existence! Just flicking through for now but I will come back to follow your guidance and check out your makerworld. Thanks so much for showing this full process in such detail!
An hour seems long but it's absolutely packed with good info that's either hard to find or flat out doesn't exist elsewhere. Really good video!
FINALLY! You put the low effort channels to shame! Thanks a ton!
@@AL-jj5lq lol, I always thought that I'm the low effort channel.
Thank you for this great video. And showing it is possible to do the impossible with FDM.
This video goes to favourites, so i can revisit it. Thank you!
This was a great video. It's one of the only ones to show you a realistic A-Z process for FDM minis. Excellent job!
Great video. Very informative.
Great Video, really enjoyed you going through the whole cleanup processas well
I love the detail and attention you give in your videos, Well done Sir!
Very comprehensive and helpful video, thanks!
THanks for this. I’m currently playing with the settings. I design 3D terrain for gaming and started learning to model miniatures. I have had good luck by not paying too much attentions with some simple miniatures, but highly detailed ones. More attention needed. I will have to rewatch and take notes.
This is perfect. I literally started watching FDM miniature printing videos 3 days ago lol
Yeah, there've been many of them released recently, and most of them are just BAD.
@@SneakyJoesENG
Yeah, there are some crappy ones out there, but after seeing what Fat Dragon can do, I’ve been very interested in FDM.
I have a resin printer already but I hate working with resin.
This Bambu A1 Mini is an amazing machine. I can’t wait to get a few of my own!
I’m going to bookmark this video for later so I can come back to it once I have my machine(s)! Lots of great info in here!
@@Hellvine Well, to be fair, he's the person I decided to make this tutorial because of. Fat Dragon is also very much afraid of supports, and only prints coffins (aka fdm-optimized minis), which I don't approve. He could do so much more for FDM minis development, yet he chose to ignore me and my advice.
@@SneakyJoesENG
Oh I see. Well as the saying goes, “steel sharpens steel.” In a way, he’s still the reason you made this video lol :)
I appreciate both of you guys. I like the fact he’s developing support-less models since it reduces the complexity and the cleanup time, but I also needed this tutorial for the more complex pieces I want to print.
The more minds that are working on these problems, the better! Thank you!
Nice video, 0,05mm resolution on FDM is insane but the little beast with 0,2mm nozzle is capable of everything apparently, well tuned print profile :)
You can go even lower, but I think 0.05 is a good middle ground that doesn't require tonns of external cooling - filament starts baking to stone if you use smaller layers, and quality degrades
So well detailed and explained! thank you, from a beginner. Looking to print 32mm mini's and some 75mm figure statues on my Bambu A1 mini!
Thank you sooo much! a lot of really useful and detailed information
Thank you so much for this! Great video!!
Very helpful , thank you
I need to save this to watch later -- I haven't tried minis because I didn't think it would be possible to get good results.
@@StrawberryGS it absolutely is, and resin lobby doesn't want you to know about possible quality so they keep poisoning people /s
@SneakyJoesENG you could argue the same about FDM, you guys dont talk about the fumes from heated plastic or how carbon fiber and glass filimits leave micro shards on your skin and in their air which act like asbestos. Resin is about as dangerous as the stuff i dealt with in a high school science lab.
@@odisy64 PLA that's not the cheapest blends isn't detected by any system me and my at the time friend, who works with chemicals, tested with. PLA fumes are as bad as just stale air if you don't have any ventilation in your room, and even if you have a sensor above the printer's nozzle, it's only bad during purge when it's overheated and steams.
We don't print minis with glass or carbon fibers. Besides, those particles have risk of ending up in your skin only in low-quality filaments, which are cheapest and low QC. And skin sheds. Not a big deal even if you get the cheapest CF blend.
FDM is really way safer than resin if you don't cheap out on your materials and have slightest glimpse of ventilation.
@SneakyJoesENG it seems like you really are trying to downplay the dangers in the CF filament, you even try to reassure yourself by telling yourself that skin sheds. I work construction, i work around much more hazardous meterial like fiber glass and industrial solvents. Most of the danger in FDM is the post processing, sand and snapping bits off produces those fibers that end up on your skin and on surfaces, when you rub them again they continue to contaminate and go airborn and because its so chemically tough it last forever in the environment. Inhaling microplastics is arguably safer. You guys really do like to ignore particulants but panic over resin fumes and skin contact. The cheapest CF is the most common one being bought, even expensive CF will have this problem.
Thank you for putting this out there!
If you happen to have an ams (light) I'd suggest giving "Support interface" in PETG for PLA prints a try. Makes life a LOT easier.
Some things to take notice of:
- Manual purge test & adjust it accordingly. Does save a fair amount of filament.
(By making the interfacing PETG you can have a zero distance between your support interface.)
Top Z distance to "0"
Base pattern "to your liking" I used Lighting.
Base pattern spacing "2mm" ( idk )
Pattern angle "45"
Top interface layers "3"
Bottom interface layers "3"
Interface pattern "Either Concentric or Rectalinear interlaced"
Top interface spacing "0"
Rest of the support settings like you did worked great.
Learned this trick from printing parts to be used without defects. Of course it lend itself for flat surfaces where it'll switch filament as few times as possible.
Not sure if it'll be too wasteful in this case but I'm certain that the supports will come off clean.
Another tip if you have a bed-slinger like me; Turn off the damn "Reduce infill retraction". Apparently it was the caused of so many bumped prints in my case. Just turning it off does add a bit of time to the prints but now I don't have the issue of taller prints constantly failing.
Considering the amount of switches, it creates lots of purge, so I'm against using AMS to minimize support scaring. IT's also very slow process and a single mini would take 5-6x time more
Thanks for vid, its great. For some reason I don't have the setting for precise wall...
You're using bambu studio instead of orca slicer
Thank you soo much, help me a lot! Maybe can you share your wisdom with a terrain profile video ;)
greatest video ever!! What settings should i change to use a 0,4 mm nozzle and a Neptune 4 as a printer?
thanks again!
Hey, you can try something similar but with 0.3mm thinnest lines without arachne and 0.8mm layer height as minimal value. In titancraft I shared my older 0.4mm profiles you can use as reference.
@@SneakyJoesENG thanks!!!
Wouldn't a bit of retraction on your zhop help with the stringing?
It can help, yes. But in general this profile looks good enough to not have lots of strings if filament is proper dry. Most of the times it's on a level that's negligeable or non-existant for me.
Quick question. I Downloaded the 3MF and Orca slicer today (monday around 17.00 CET) and watch video and go through settings from 3MF, and video does not match settings in 3MF. Did you change this 3MF allready? Most noticeably the "Small area flow compensation" is on in my 3MF and the Flow compensation Model is filled in with a lot of values. Is this new, or would I be better off deselecting and going with your video-settings?
Hey, I did do small adjustments here and there in 3mf, sure. I don't think they will harm the model, so feel free to use version from 3mf
someone found the 0.2 nozzle ;)
i did not hear properly what kind of ppl that do not get strings were called from your viewpoint. if you want to i can help you get rid of those strings, since we are in the same ecosystem the changes should translate?
instead of arachne that gives more variable flowrate than classic, it can give in some cases a surface defect. also it has issues like you describe here.
did you know that you can manually set the outerwall size to 60% of your nozzle size and the wall generation will not give this uneven flow and arachne issues? also slicing with 0 tolerance and turning off arc is a must for details imo.
great job on the custom profile i must say, we have reached pretty much 98% the same settings :P
the petg is a dream for support material interface for pla, but hell for print time.
good to see ppl understanding the slicers power like you do, this is a very good video for this. im old in the game but i still enjoyed it and cant argue with choice. well done sir.
Yes, I've included thinner walls in next profile iteration I did when I already recorded the video but didn't have it assembled. Nice compromise for lack of arachne, which I disabled by default now. Arc on that scale will not really do much except for making file harder for processing, I believe. It will still give fuzzy texture where it's fuzzy on the model while giving smoother lines where they must be smooth.
As for strings - the ones I had are super minor and are eliminated during cleanup so not a real issue. Some other people have it more pronounced, but I think it's moisture issue in the first place. Then tweaking some retraction is also an option to consider, I didn't do the best job with it here, and just left defaults for enabled values
much praise from down under.
Very good video, very explanatory and didactic,
What machine are you using there to print?
I gave it a like and subscribed =D
Bambulab a1 mini. Earlier was using jgmaker a3s
@@SneakyJoeRu thanks u =D
First of all great work!
Also newbie question - I currently do not own a Bambu Labs printer but I saw some people saying that they managed to get great results with presupported minis (for resin) on the A1 mini. Have you tried it? I am hanging onto some presupported files because I'm planning to get an A1 mini but I'm running out of HDD space and I am contemplating on deleting them. Thank you for your time!
I thought about it, but due to how fdm works, it will take 2-3x more time, and I settled with my own supports I've shown here. Also it will have higher risk of failing since resin just prints layers differently.
External HD are cheap! Even thumb drives can save tons of files! Save and label all your drives...always run your PC with at least 50% free on your C drive. The engineers at my job have drilled that into my head.
how do you use the profile once downloaded in the slicer?
Open the file, save as profile
Out of curiosity, how does this profile compare to the fat dragon games one? Are there different priorities/tradeoffs here? Kinda new to peinting minis (and 3d printing in general)
Hi, I didn't do a direct comparison except for seeing that Dragon is extremely afraid of supports. That was my trigger to do a video with my profile with supported minis and cleanup process - because nobody else did it.
@SneakyJoeRu ah, ok, thank you :)
I definitely don't want to miss out on supported minis, so I'll stick to your process then
Hi there I cannot find a link to this minis print profile on Makerworld, do you have a download for it? Thanks for the amazing video it was super helpful!
Hey, I didn't have it on makerworld, but I've ported it now. I still recommend to use orca slicer, and I haven't test the profile I've uploaded, but it's something you can try to do yourself now.
@@SneakyJoesENG thanks so much you are doing the community a great service! If I were you Id also post the video in the Bambu Lad subreddit because people there are always looking for this kind of info!
@SneakyJoesENG thanks for uploading it! However it doesn't have Arachne wall generation enabled, didn't you say in your video at 8:05 that this was very important when printing minis?
@@somerandomperson8282 Yes, I did. I also said that it should be disabled if there are issues, and immediately after making the video I've faced too many issues to consider this option safe for mass recommendation as a default. I'd rather allow people to enable it.
@@SneakyJoeRu aha cool thanks for explaining my man! I am doing a test print now (I adapted your settings to a 0.4mm nozzle) and I will let you know how it goes!
Спасибо за познавательное видео! Буквально недавно начал интересоваться данной темой, а ваше видео очень помогло мне. Хотелось бы узнать будет ли подобный гайд на русскоязычном канале?
На русском канале сейчас развиваться смысла уже нету - мало того что никакой монетизации там не будет из-за санкций, так ещё и из-за страйка от Джаззы канал в шадоубане и новые видео по хорошим темам на нём давно не взлетают как это.
@SneakyJoeRu Жаль, но все равно спасибо за ответ.
Your feeds are really fast!
Invite to discord do not work. Please refresh .
Updated. Weird, didn't know they have expiration.
Жаль не на русском( в ру сегменте такого контента овбще нет, все в основном про техничку
На русском такое в 2024 делать вообще смысла уже нет. Банально не посмотрят больше пары сотен людей и всё.