Ford Escape Oil pressure sensor replacement (easy! no AC removal)
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- Опубліковано 19 гру 2024
- This was done on a 2007 V6 3.0 model, The car had a blinking oil light and after this repair the oil light has behaved normally ever since. While this method worked great for me and many others, some people have clearance issues fitting the socket over the sensor. If you struggle to unhook the wire connector with a pick you MIGHT be able to fit an open end wrench (13/16'' or 21mm) onto the sensor and turn it so that the connector faces you making it easier to unclip and remove, then once removed proceed with the ratchet and socket.
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What was your reasoning for changing this sensor? Symptoms?
Blinking red oil light due to faulty sensor.@@willhas9352
Ok cool. Had similar issues but think it's the oil pump. Did save me time though. Thanks for the video
@@Chris.activityyeah mine keep blinking or solid when the car stops at a red light then turns off when you start moving
Thanks for the video. I know they mention removing the belt and AC Compressor but looking at where the sensor was located I thought to myself there must be a way to get around doing all the other aforementioned, your video confirmed my suspicions. Thank you!
Great way to save time& money. Mine was actually facing towards me so it was pretty easy to get the clip off. I have a 2008 Ford escape XLT. Thank you for your video it was very helpful.
Thanks for this video .. all the other ones on here they’re removing the belt and/or the ac which it totally unnecessary you can do it this way with a little patience and it’s a whole lot easier thanks for saving me a lot of extra work!
Glad to hear this method worked for you as well !
Great video. Simple, straightforward with virtually no hiccups. Keep doing what you're doing; I'm grateful.
Mine is an ‘06. My socket ratchet combo would not fit together. So I put the socket on first then the ratchet. Loosen 90 percent of the way before you take the ratchet off then the socket. The sensor will unscrew by hand at that point. My vehicle is a Canadian unit so there’s a block heater sensor in the way also which made it a little challenging 😥. Reverse order when installing. Notice roughly how many threads were showing before removal and tighten at that same point. I found the 13/16 socket 3/8 drive worked best for me. No A/C compressor removal thanks for video.
Thank you was about to remove the belt and ac pump for nothing so glad I watched this VIDEO!!!!
Same problem. The oil light would turn on at idle, or when I stopped at red lights. Problem solved! I was able to change mine with this method. The trickiest part is getting that cable clip undone.
I got my sensor at O'Reilly's for $25.
In the off chance you read this soon how did you get the clip off?? The pick isn't working for me.
Really appreciate the simplicity of your video. Gonna attempt this today. Thanks.
Let me know how it goes for you!
It went well. Just like you said there was no need to remove the AC compressor. Thanks again.
For all those about to do this repair.
I recommend you get the OEM part. I purchased a BWD version which did fit but the connecter side was slightly bigger and the socket that I used to take out the OEM version did not work on the BWD version.
It was a nightmare.
I also had to remove the compressor as the oil filter approach did not allow enough space due to some cabling. Be prepared to remove the compressor. It was not hard AT ALL. just a hard lesson learned.
on the oil pressure sensor I used a 13/16 inch flare nut wrench and loosened it down so I could get a flathead screw driver on it to take off that electrical connector, I was trying to pick it but could not feel anything until I turned it down and seen you had to push it in.
Thanks for the post! This helped for my '06 Mazda Tribute as there was no way to remove the AC Compressor without having to remove the connecting AC Lines. I used stubby 3/8 ratchet with a 21mm Deep Socket.
Omg your a life saver bro im going to give it a try I did not want to pull belt and ac unit thank you
Always a simpler way. Thanks buddy.
Note that the Gen 1 Escape's last year is 2007. However, Ford continued the engines and transmissions for one more year (2008) into the Gen 2 model. There is a comment below about how Ford changed the connector plug mid-year in 2007. Bottom line: COMPARE the old sensor plug to the new one before installing it.
For further insurance - in case you (or the next owner) will have to do this again, line up the new connector plug so the release tab is facing you when you are finished.
This is far easier and faster by releasing the serpentine belt and unbolting the AC compressor. Three bolts and let it hand loose or bungee it out of the way. No need to break into the AC lines. With the compressor unbolted it's out in the open.
why didn't you just turn the oil pressure sensor enough to reach he clip on plug
You would need a box wrench to move it, and it may not move with just a box wrench. Fortunately, the clip is very low pressure and just a finger tip will depress it even if the clip is facing up. When I change these, I always rotate them another half turn to get the clip face down for the next guy. Once the connector is off a 21mm deep socket will get it out without stripping.
Thanks used this technique on my 03 Mazda tribute appreciate it
I have an 03 mazda tribute also with same problem...they list 2 different sensors..one with 3/8 and one with 1/4 in threads...which was correct? Thanks
@@Charles-b5n there’s no way to tell until you take it out, I still have yet to do this repair but I’ve done a lot of research and nothing matters it’s either one or the other
Please help so have had a flickering oil light in my 03 tribute for 3 years now I was told it was a oil sensor light probably so I find this video I get it out their was oil pouring out the top of the sensor I noticed you said pay attention to were it sits at when pulling out so I out it in but wrenched it down quite aways then I drove hour no light then all of a sudden light flickers once I'm like wtf so I go in this time removed belt and ac unit to get s good look at it I remove and put back in and tighten all the way down to the point were their is another house bolt that the sensor sits in started to spin same think but now oil light is flickering worse so I take it out turns out the housing came out with the sensor so I get th broke apart put housing back in amd then I put sensor in a little past thread tape and tried to measure about 10 pounds per spec drive it I think its fixed drive 30 mins no light just as I pull in drive way bam it come on but it full on I check oil full lost I know the sensor was shot because oil was coming out of top of sensor what else could it be
When you say the housing came apart with the sensor are you referring to the the plastic sensor internals and the metal threaded part of the sensor? Sounds like you could have over tightened the sensor the first time and somehow damaged it. Did you put teflon tape on the threads when you installed it? You said oil was leaking out of the old sensor pretty bad, make sure there isn't oil on the electrical connectors, because that would interfere with the signal even from a new sensor.
Will this procedure work on a 2005 escape xlt 3.0 v6?
If i go this route, will i need to change out the oil and oil filter as well? Thank you guys, slowly learning here to cut back at car costs, and i want to be prepared before I i start.
You dont have to change the oil, but I would definately recommend replacing the filter if taken off for this job. Removing the filter will also drain some oil so make sure to top off oil to upper dipstick mark when done.
So I was able to get to it and got it in their I noticed you said measure how far it is in I wrenched mine all the way into the hole and now my light is back on how far does it go
Maybe the oil pressure sensor works fine and the pressure is low.
Can you measure your ratchet and socket set up from socket end to ratchet head? I tried this method with and I couldn't get the socket and wrench on, only the socket, but not both
socket from end to ratchet head is 3 and 1/8''. the socket has about 2'' of depth inside before the ratchet's square connector would get in the way. Sounds like you might need a deeper socket to fit over the sensor.
@@Chris.activity My set up measures slightly less than that. I drilled out the inside of the socket and even shaved off some of the front and back of the socket (I work in a machine shop). Still wouldn't go lol. It's actually the alternator that is in the way. I just got the vehicle a couple months ago, maybe it's an aftermarket alternator with a slightly larger case? At this point I've done as much work as I would have taking off the dang alternator. Thanks for your help though.
@@LueyMost Dang, to bad it didnt work for you, but I'll add something in the description about certain alternators not giving enough clearance to fit the socket.
Should the battery be disconnected before replacement of sensor?
No need to.
@@mimibuick bullshit. ALWAYS disconnect negative battery terminal when doing ANY work. PARTICULARLY with electrical connections.
@@jamesshea4534 I must have been doing wrong then for 35 years,LOL, You dont need to disconnect the battery for this or just about everything else
@@frankie072 Exactly...The sensor is only energized with the ignition key on.
Good video, one doubt, I just change the oil of mine, is it possible to rehuse the oil filter? thanks for advance
The seal on an oil filter is generally meant to be used once, as they get hard from use and won't reseal as well. I would replace it, only $3.97 at walmart for the Motorcraft filter.
@@Chris.activity thanks for answering
If the oil is pretty new AND you didn't overtighten the oil filter, you could.Personally, I wouldn't take the chance just to save a few dollars.
Thanks for the video. Gonna try this. But before I do, some questions. Can this be done with an engine full of oil, or does the oil need to be drained first? With the oil light going on/off at the most random times, and chance it could just be the wiring/connector? (just checking before I go do difficult and replace the sensor....)
You do not have to drain the engine oil, just the half quart or so that you lose from taking off the filter. With how frequently this sensor seems to fail on these Escapes I would say its unlikely to be the wiring, but it is possible that maybe some oil has leaked out of the sensor and onto the connector contributing to the incorrect readings.
Sweet I guess I'm going to do mine . I'll let you know if it works out like you say
Not enough information. Is your vehicle the four banger or the Duratec V6?
6
You should be more specific on your post as year model etc Did not work for me and will not work on an 04 with the 3.0 V-6 . You have to remove the A/C like the other videos suggest. The a/c is right tight next to the oil filter not at all like your video shows.
Won't work on my 2001 Escape 3.0 either same as yours.
Did have mine chAned.
But the it still flickers.
The oil level is good. It runs smoother, but the sensor light flickers at idle still
Wonder if maybe the electrical connector that plugs into the sensor has some oil on it thats interfering with the signal. It's always a bummer when replacing something doesnt fix the problem, but you might want to have the oil pump / pressure checked out to make sure its not something more serious.
@@Chris.activity thanks.
So your saying I may need an oil pump possibly.?
A friend suggested that the battery should have been diconnected before replacing the sensor
So did the guy from the auto parts store
@@blaaq360 Having somebody in person who can at least test the circuit of the switch and or the actual oil pressure itself with an external gauge would really help you get to the bottom of it. It could be a few different things, even just a faulty wire in the circuit could make the light behave abnormally. I've seen an Escape trigger a check engine light for the egr valve, when in reality it wasnt the valve that failed but a wire in that circuit that had become damaged and shorted out. Thats just an example though.
@@Chris.activity thank you
It is difficult to find a reputable mechanic theses days.
But I will get on it as soon as possible thanks again
Hi, what year are we dealing with here? Friend wants me to do his 2009 Escape.
this was an '07. From some quick google searches it looks like the 2009 still uses the duratec 3.0 engine, so as long as its the V6 version it should be like this one.
Millennial Toolbox It ended up working as advertised but was very difficult to know I had the new sensor secured all the way. Thank you for the video it really saved some time on this job I performed for a friend.
Will it work on a ford escape 2011?? Please let me know when you can 🙏🙏🙏
Note that the Gen1 Escape engines and transmissions continued into the Gen2 model for one year: 2008. Then in 2009, it was all Gen2 parts - but some parts fit both series.
Gotta love Ford's engineers and marketing departments.
If this can help someone. I had ordered one of these for someone's 2007 escape. I removed the old one, installed the new one and I could not get the connector to go in. Well it is because they had a mid-year change. After swearing in all 4 languages I can speak in I found out I needed the same one as an 06. Trick: If the connector is black 2006 and older. If it is white 2007(after mid-year) and newer. All the best of luck to everyone.
Great advice. I also noted from another reply in this section that before plugging in the connector, tighten it a little more, just enough to access the clip in case you (or next owner) will have to do this again in the future.
Wow that's perfect. I appreciate this video
Thank you for this
Seems like more room on these compared to the Mazda 6
So if a shop quote charges extra for removing ac compressor are they committing fraud??
Well, I sure wouldn't Pay them any extra to remove it !
20 ft lb
The torque spec would be just for reference. How would you ever get a torque wrench inside that space?