I would be curious to know what the difference would be if the truck was naturally aspirated. Having boost definitely compensates for the more. Makes it have less of a effect on the truck. So you guys should try it with a n/a truck
Absolutely- but that's a big job/cost depending on how big of a tire you go with. Personally I wouldn't regear with a 35 in these trucks but 37's or bigger I would probably start thinking about it. -Justin
Great comparison with the results right where the rubber meets the road. It's also worth noting that in an actual road comparison, you have four wheels now trying to sling that extra mass. What that means in terms of horsepower to the wheels is debatable, but it's worth being aware of. Having said that, sure, I much prefer my 35x12 Nittos over stock. ;)
I understand the weight causing performance loss. I bought my truck with after market BFG All Terrains. They are a bit wider and taller. My question is about the changing in the gear ratio to the ground. My truck has never come close to the stated fuel economy it was advertised with. I am sure my tires added weight, width a height. At 70mph my speedo is 6 mph off. I am sure someone out there is doing the math and saying no kidding. I just would like to determine if stock tire size would be worth it. The truck has a leveling kit, no lift in the back.
I enjoyed the dynamic test on various size wheel & tire combos. Along the same lines I have 2018 platinum. Stock 20" wheels but a little taller tires. I know @70 mph my speedo is off by 6mph. How does this effect milage numbers. My neighbor had the same engine, turbos and transparent in his lariat. He Boston milein the 20s. I am in the 16 to 18 range. He had factory wheels and tires. I am try to determine how much of this is loss in performance by heavier tire and how much is gear ratio change?
It'll be worse for me when i go from a 265/60/17 to a 35/12.50/17 with after market wheels as well on my 2012 F150 xl that only makes 302 HP at 4750 RPM.
Great video Justin. Can you tell me what fender flares you have installed on your F150? They look super clean. I have a 23 I would like to add fender flares on, I also like the matching color, makes for a clean look. Thanks, Steve
Hey Steve- thanks for the kind words. The flares are the Bushwacker Extend a Flare set that we paint matched Oxford White. I'm really pumped on how they came out. You can catch the full build video of the truck here... ua-cam.com/video/-0RxHsV-Q1o/v-deo.html -Justin
There is a huge flaw in your reported data. Power is not a function of the tire size. Specifically, one horsepower is defined as 550 lb-ft/s, or torque multiplied by speed divided by a constant. If you install a larger diameter tire, the torque will be reduced but the speed will be higher and the power remains relatively constant. The additional inertial load of 44 lb is virtually insignificant when the power is in the range of this application. If you are testing a 15 hp go cart, then that 44 lb is going to draw a significant portion of the total power. I speculate that you forgot to correct your dyno calibration for tire size in the three pulls. The bottom line - it doesn't take 30 hp to rotate 44 lb of weight at less than 1000 rpm. For reference, 1000 rpm on a 33 inch tire is approximately 100 mph.
While understand what you are saying, I disagree and here's why. The dyno is the constant here- - it does not discriminate what is on it, nor does it know or care if or when things change- you strap a vehicle down, run it, get the results- pretty simple. The variables were the taller/heavier wheels & tires. This video is not solely about tire 'size' but rather the combination of weight and size and how those changes would affect power output, everything else unchanged. Once you start 'calibrating' for different sizes, etc at that point it is not a true 1:1 test so that's why we did it as such. Hope this clears things up. -Justin
Good comparison! I'm surprised going an additional inch out on the torque arm going to the 35's didn't affect the power much. I would have expected a larger loss with the weight farther away from the center of rotation.
Thanks! Yeah I thought maybe stretching the gear out with the larger diameter would've had a bigger effect but I was surprised at the result. Thanks again for watching! -Justin
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
Do you have other questions you want answered? Let us know below!
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I would be curious to know what the difference would be if the truck was naturally aspirated. Having boost definitely compensates for the more. Makes it have less of a effect on the truck. So you guys should try it with a n/a truck
Do it on a stock truck no one’s out here putting superchargers on a truck
the acceleration time is affected more than dyno numbers
Will switching the gear ratio fix the HP lost ?
Absolutely- but that's a big job/cost depending on how big of a tire you go with. Personally I wouldn't regear with a 35 in these trucks but 37's or bigger I would probably start thinking about it. -Justin
Maybe do a stock truck 5.0L same test?
Great comparison with the results right where the rubber meets the road. It's also worth noting that in an actual road comparison, you have four wheels now trying to sling that extra mass. What that means in terms of horsepower to the wheels is debatable, but it's worth being aware of. Having said that, sure, I much prefer my 35x12 Nittos over stock. ;)
Same here brother! I'm willing to lose a few HP in favor of looking good haha. 😎 Thanks for watching! -Justin
Excellent video.
Straight to the point, nothing but real info. Thanks
I understand the weight causing performance loss. I bought my truck with after market BFG All Terrains. They are a bit wider and taller. My question is about the changing in the gear ratio to the ground. My truck has never come close to the stated fuel economy it was advertised with. I am sure my tires added weight, width a height. At 70mph my speedo is 6 mph off. I am sure someone out there is doing the math and saying no kidding. I just would like to determine if stock tire size would be worth it. The truck has a leveling kit, no lift in the back.
I enjoyed the dynamic test on various size wheel & tire combos. Along the same lines I have 2018 platinum. Stock 20" wheels but a little taller tires. I know @70 mph my speedo is off by 6mph. How does this effect milage numbers. My neighbor had the same engine, turbos and transparent in his lariat. He Boston milein the 20s. I am in the 16 to 18 range. He had factory wheels and tires. I am try to determine how much of this is loss in performance by heavier tire and how much is gear ratio change?
finally. a video with actual data and real life application.
Thanks for watching! -Zach
You don’t have my model of f150 on your site or on any of your videos I have a tremor
It'll be worse for me when i go from a 265/60/17 to a 35/12.50/17 with after market wheels as well on my 2012 F150 xl that only makes 302 HP at 4750 RPM.
You'll want to regear
I want to see bigger tires with lighter wheels how much it helps or hurts
Great video Justin. Can you tell me what fender flares you have installed on your F150? They look super clean. I have a 23 I would like to add fender flares on, I also like the matching color, makes for a clean look.
Thanks, Steve
Hey Steve- thanks for the kind words. The flares are the Bushwacker Extend a Flare set that we paint matched Oxford White. I'm really pumped on how they came out. You can catch the full build video of the truck here... ua-cam.com/video/-0RxHsV-Q1o/v-deo.html -Justin
whats the best tire for a 20x12 rim
I have a 2018 f 150 with a FTS 8” lift kit but turning radius is terrible is there another lift kit i can with that keeps the factory turning radius ?
I have the Superlift 6" kit on this truck that turns pretty much like a stock truck. No rubbing, with the crash bars still installed. -Justin
Those headlights Diode Dynamics ?
They are! The Elite Max- I really dig them. -Justin
There is a huge flaw in your reported data. Power is not a function of the tire size. Specifically, one horsepower is defined as 550 lb-ft/s, or torque multiplied by speed divided by a constant. If you install a larger diameter tire, the torque will be reduced but the speed will be higher and the power remains relatively constant. The additional inertial load of 44 lb is virtually insignificant when the power is in the range of this application. If you are testing a 15 hp go cart, then that 44 lb is going to draw a significant portion of the total power. I speculate that you forgot to correct your dyno calibration for tire size in the three pulls. The bottom line - it doesn't take 30 hp to rotate 44 lb of weight at less than 1000 rpm. For reference, 1000 rpm on a 33 inch tire is approximately 100 mph.
While understand what you are saying, I disagree and here's why. The dyno is the constant here- - it does not discriminate what is on it, nor does it know or care if or when things change- you strap a vehicle down, run it, get the results- pretty simple. The variables were the taller/heavier wheels & tires. This video is not solely about tire 'size' but rather the combination of weight and size and how those changes would affect power output, everything else unchanged. Once you start 'calibrating' for different sizes, etc at that point it is not a true 1:1 test so that's why we did it as such. Hope this clears things up. -Justin
Cool test but nice looking truck
Make sure to check out our build video on it if you haven't already! We go over all of the mods there! -Zach
ua-cam.com/video/-0RxHsV-Q1o/v-deo.html
Good comparison! I'm surprised going an additional inch out on the torque arm going to the 35's didn't affect the power much. I would have expected a larger loss with the weight farther away from the center of rotation.
Thanks! Yeah I thought maybe stretching the gear out with the larger diameter would've had a bigger effect but I was surprised at the result. Thanks again for watching! -Justin
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.
I think it is all about the weight. Same weight to construct the tread cap. Same plies in sidewalls and thread. Just an additional 1inch of sidewall material all the way around. Notice this is why the taller tires were only 5 lbs heavier.