Great video Larry. You are without doubt one of the greatest trainers and talkers of common sense on YT. No nonsense advice and best of all it's all free. I'm sure I speak for the vast majority of people who watch your videos, thankyou for helping our dogs to have better lives.
Folks please pay attention to what he's saying he gives the answeres in the video. Negative comments on this video only tell us your not paying attention.
LOVE this guy. I'm a trainer and have his exact point of view. I train my dog owners to have an appropriate relationship with the dog by being effective leaders who communicate clearly. People think the dog is supposed to protect them but its the owners who have to protect the dog. And the dog has to believe the owner can do that. I learned a few new things. I always start with teaching them how to walk the dog which is a great way to establish leadership and works with dogs who aren't a problem but I realize the lungers and pullers and barkers need to go through the basic training first to solidify the relationship so I'll be changing that up. Every tip and insight he gives is what I believe and teach so it is great to be confirmed.I'll be sending my clients links to his videos to back up my training, Thanks!!
super helpful video. working at various distances outside of a dog park has helped my 6 month old dog so much on just being over excited around people and dogs so I'm glad that is something you used with Link, I remember watching Link's e collar videos where you let him notice a boy playing basketball and you got his attention off the distraction. great stuff Larry.
I so appreciate these videos. You’ve helped me so much to help my 1 eyed, 80 lb. GSD who has been terribly reactive. I train with her in my cul-d-sac and have slowly introduced her back on to short walks, testing the waters so to say. So far, so good, no reactivity. Myself, being mindful of my GSD, I now understand what triggers her and what doesn’t. Again, Thank You
It's also important to recognize leash reactivity vs. leash frustration. For a dog that is reacting because it has gotten used to always greeting other people/dogs, and is frustrated when you do not allow it, it would be -P to turn the dog around and walk away. But I LOVE that you say that taking a reactive/fearful dog away from the stimuli is a reward in itself. And even worse if the other person walks away! Then the dog is under the impression after so many times of that happening that if they bark/lunge at people, they will go away. I made the mistake with my first puppy to allow everyone to pet him and dogs to greet him on the leash, thinking it was great socialization. And a lot of my clients with leash frustration did the same thing. They would pet him and sweet talk him and he had a great time meeting new dogs. As time went on.. he would get very frustrated when we saw a person who did not greet him, and worse with dogs. Sometimes a stranger would begin walking towards us upon seeing how excited my dog was, nearly dragging me to the person, and that was SUCH a reinforcer for his inappropriate pulling, barking, and whining. Even though I said please do not pet him, he learned that sometimes, barking and pulling gets stranger's attention.
I'm so happy you shared this!!! MY biggest problem is getting the owners to follow thru and continue the work when I'm not there. It's so so frustrating!! They say....I don't understand we see him/her do it perfect for you but then we walk him/her and they go right back to it. My dog must be afraid of you. Lmmfao.....little do they know that A. If that's the case the dog definitely won't listen to me AND B. Being fearful ervous is what's probably causing the behavior. I try to drill it into them during training....CONSISTENCY and PATIENCE is key!! 99% of all bad behavior is created in the home and that's where it has to be fixed. Lol you can tell in restaurant's which kids have rules at home and which ones don't. Same with dogs. You don't take ur kids to a restaurant to teach them how to eat and drink and behave......you teach them the basic essentials at home and the skills are easily transferred.
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
I totally get what you're saying with seeing kids in a restaurant, etc. We've all seen that and think the same thing. However, this is my 3rd dog - the last two did not behave this way. He is a different breed - others were poodle/schnauzer mixes. This new guy is a boxer/beagle/pug mix and Yikes! He is very high energy, and bold. He is now almost 9 months old and from the start I needed to be firmer and quicker with him, but to no avail. I am now working with a trainer, a Starmark collar and this week an ecollar because coming when called is non-existent, greeting people and other dogs is not great and leash walking can definitely be better. Sigh.... I am truly exhausted - I walk him three times a day most days, play in the backyard and have fun time/training with him, treats etc. This is the most time I've ever spent on a dog before and I'm determined to help him learn the correct way to behave. It's definitely not me - I'm putting in the time, but I do recognize I need to do things differently with this particular dog and that is why I sought out professional training. BTW, he is 90 percent an amazing dog, loving, very smart, sleeps great, loves driving in the car and knows when pulling through a Starbucks that he is getting a "pup cup". He's a sweetie.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I adopted a dog from a Los Angeles County pound, and she has turned out to be sweet and good with all humans and a holy terror to all dogs. I frantically searched and came across Larry's work, and I am learning what to do so I help my new dog get her manners without hurting her.
Hi Larry - thank you so much for all of your videos. They’re super helpful. One request, when you reference prior videos in newer videos (especially when they’re example vids from past board and trains/private sessions), could you please link them in the description or pinned comment?
Sad that some of these comments are just so very rude. Seen this gentleman work with his malinois? Well I have and WOW. I also use e collars and yet my girls spirit is strong so I know I'm using it correctly. I'm so glad to have a chance to learn and grow...I'm intermediate at dog training and I hope to be advanced level like this guy some day.
I approach all reactive dogs the same way. I make their "world" smaller and smaller until they have a daily routine they can handle. We can then start building confidence because the dog is now existing in a "safe" world where we can build all the foundation work we need to start introducing challenges. That way we're all set up to tackle the triggers and the corrections are fair, understood and often very mild and we can always go back a step if the dog becomes overwhelmed.
Absolutely....its a big world, we don't just jump in the ring with Ali because we think we can fight! haha. Its a Kindergarten through Graduate school process! Gotta be mature enough to handle distractions/chaos. Keep it simple.
People need to understand that structure and training makes for a happy and well behaved dog and handler, or pet dog owner. I saw a man with an American Bulldog with 2 leads , one on a harness...sigh and another to a flat collar. Poor guy was being dragged along the road. Training would sort this easily. Great video Larry, Thank you for sound advice : )
Larry, thanks for your great content. I like your point about not over correcting and looking for the source of the reactivity and the limitations to corrections without solving the source of the reactivity. I heard you emphasize basic training, building relationship etc. However, I didn't hear you tell us how to stop reactivity, instead how NOT to stop reactivity. Help me understand, thanks.
I can honestly say I'd totally trust him with my bulldog...he is a very skilled trainer. Not only would I let him train her but board and train also. I respect all his principles and he personally owns and understands working type dogs, which is a bonus.
Dog reactivity is such a huge problem and in the vast majority of cases it is simply a case of of the dog not having confidence with the owners. People seem to aquire dogs and think everything just falls into place with a little bit of training. Dogs need alot of training..owners need even more training. If things were so easy we would not need professional dog trainers. If I'm walking my dog I can usually spot which dog is going to be reactive just by looking at the person and not the dog. Dogs are ultra sensitive and pick up the tiniest clues that the owner is not confident even if they themselves think they are and so then the dog acts up. To the dog an encounter is a life and death situation. Don't laugh at this, I'm being totally serious. The dog will usually growl and this is where things get out of control and escalate. The growl is so misunderstood by most owners, the dog is communicating in doggy language to the other dog" hey I'm confused and scared, stay away from me." The owner of this dog now over reacts and starts tugging hard on the leash causing more confusion.His leash being tugged causes him to pull harder and now the other dog starts reacting and the whole situation has escalated. A little pop on the leash was all that was needed or even better no pop. Shouting at the dog would also have a negative effect. The problem is also dependant on how the other dog owner reacts to his own dog. A confident dog does not growl at other dogs. Bonding with your dog is not enough, your dog must be able to trust you. Trust is the ultimate goal in training your dog. Another word of advice.. when you are out with your dog and people approach to pet your dog or let their dog meet yours....tell them to fuck off.
I seem to think I'm being a leader more than I'm actually being a leader. I do all the things like dog doesn't come up on furniture or in bed, threshold management, things like that. I still deal with pretty high levels of reactivity although mostly just huffing. To trainers, it's just about building leadership and it's easy but for me it's been a year long struggle. I won't give up but holy.. I'm having a hard time getting that right
I am a leader for my dog and he stills sleeps on my bed and beside me on my couch. We have a strong bond but he knows I am in charge now. My issue was not being firm enough in training. That has changed and we are having great success with eliminating reactivity on leash. Which I learned from these videos. After I had a strong foundation with our obedience, I joined an intensive outdoor dog training group. We train 3 times a week with 20 dogs. Yesterday we were in an elevator with 3 other dogs and handlers and he just sat quietly beside me. I have done this with no treats, a martingale and traffic leash. We walked all around downtown in our group and he stayed beside me. We practiced some parkour to breakup loose walking. After class we go for a fun walk and swim.
what kind of work can i do at home, what kind of conditioning should i be doing, to stop him being other dog reactive i want to stop it i dont understand what i am doing wrong he is good at home and then he goes out gets really anxious and reactive
Are you regularly exposing him to new situations? And praising him? You could try taking him to a park, bring some kibble or treats and feed him each time a car drives by, a person walks by etc and he doesn’t react. Let him see good things happen in strange situations if he pays attention to you.
Larry another great video that just makes things simple if you apply them. Im goning to email you a question im having with one of my new dogs? Thanks Tony
Supposedly by setting boundaries at home. Things like not allowing the dog to jump on you or sleep on couch. Come when called etc etc. Not sure if it works for all breeds like sighthound breeds.
How much trust/respect does your dog show for you at home? For how many things does your dog defer to you for leadership and problem solving? Some examples are basic obedience, entries/exits, feeding time, non-verbal obedience out of respect, abandoning bad behavior with a simple look, approach or verbal command.
It's not as easy as it seems. My dog only shows leash aggression around the house. Not when I visit other places. He is territorial. He mostly gets along well with the dogs that live here and that he knows. At stranger dogs he is barking and he tries to drive them away. He roars like a lion and gets his reaction. The other takes a detour. Now, I think, I'll cut his walk short if he freaks out. Then it goes straight back home and then I will train hard with him at home. He has to learn that his behavior has disadvantages and that he should learn from me. It's difficult for you with such an original dog. Otherwise he hears very well and learns, but this behavior is in his nature. I need a stop signal that works!!! I'm thinking about training tools. But I'm not very optimistic. I will try harder.
I am missing something here. How do you fix leash reactivity? How would for example a 2 year old dog with leash reactivity be helped if they are not trained near other dogs on a walk, gradually moving closer and closer. In my experience training at home vs training in a high distraction environment like a park is completely different. Maybe I'm misunderstanding your point. Can you consider showing us a training session to help this behavior. Thanks for your video by the way
He says that you have to bulid a strong relationship with the dog first and a strong obedience and trust and respect from the dog because the reason the dog reacts is because it doesn't know what to do because it has no direction from the owner
Larry is spot on as ever. Unfortunately owners want a quick fix and this laying the foundation, training/re-training takes a lot of work and time that many owners are just not prepared for. The only addition I might suggest, and this comes after the foundation has been laid is to reward when the dog exhibits calming signals. I do this with some dogs and also use corrections with others. Both are utilized after the dog is “trained” with markers, luring, leash pressure (and structure/boundaries)..
Also.. I might suggest: there are a couple of “types” of reactivity. I have worked with dogs that just want to get to other dogs simply to sniff, play, interact. The leash restraint frustrates them. This is easier to address.. but address you must as it inevitably progresses as frustration builds. Other dogs are just insecure and lunge, growl etc because they don’t have that Captain Larry speaks of. This is harder to deal with and looks like aggression although it usually isn’t. Both types are addressed in the same way in my opinion - and that is how Larry describes.
_'I am missing something here. How do you fix leash reactivity?'_ By building a solid relationship and solid obedience. _'How would for example a 2 year old dog with leash reactivity be helped if they are not trained near other dogs on a walk'_ You practice and proof all the obedience skills you will need to navigate those situations. YOU need to do the training near other dogs. _'gradually moving closer and closer.'_ Dogs experience more pressure, the closer they are to the trigger, by creating distance you distance your dog from he "hot zone" making the situation easier to handle and easier for the dog to learn. _'In my experience training at home vs training in a high distraction environment like a park is completely different.'_ You are correct. Dogs don't "generalise" training very well at all. What you change a variable (the environment) they see a different "picture" and have no idea what the training means. We break training down into steps to bridge those gaps to transfer the training from indoors to say your yard, then the street infront of your house, then the next street, then the park etc. The process is known as "proofing" and enables your dog to understand that "sit" means "sit" whatever environment we're in. Remember the three "D's" when training anything - "Distance, Distraction, Duration". All three factors need to be controlled to enable the dog to succeed at each difficulty level. If you struggle, you need to go back a step and try again. The longer you spend proofing, the better and easier it will be when you get into "real life" situations. Good luck !
I appreciate the video. I work with my dog multiple times a day (5 month Doberman) and leash reactivity is really the only area where I feel I am not making progress. I believe that i have a good relationship with my puppy - though she can have stubborn moments! I feel stupid asking this but I was confused a bit when in the beginning of the video you talk about how ineffective most owners are using e-collars and prong collars to correct there dogs in these situations but then at the end you talk about using these tools as a way to apply a correction... is the difference based on the relationship that you’ve built with your dog and ensuring that they understand the correction that you are applying? Not trying to be a wise guy, I see how well dogs react to your methods so I just don’t want to mess it up!
Can you please do a training video with a dog that needs reactivity training? I have been doing all my dogs obedience training and strengthening our bond. I do not know how to go about correcting the dog aggression when we’re on walks. It always fails even when trying to use positive reinforcement. One day I would love for her to have interactions with other dogs. Please help
Larry I am from MA, I have the 2 year old GSD, with that exact issue, he has been e-collar trained. Inside house is fantastic, will place and listen great, outside different story. What are the outside training exercises i can do (the ones you didn't say you do) b4 you go to dog park? The training that I need to practice with my GSD b4 I go walking or to the dogpark. Thanks
I am in Ma. Dogs learn in small pictures. What you teach in the house has to be trained again in the yard then slowly add distractions and then new environments. House (add distractions), Yard (add distractions), A soccer field, a business etc. There is much more than that but that is why you should work with a good trainer. Good luck,
Hi Yall., great video. So my problem is different, 1 year old standard poodle, i never go to dog parks never like the idea , he is social with people though dont like to be pet by male strangers . He is good with woman and kids, good obedience, stay, heel, he waits and sit, place/spot and crate, no couch or human bed, BUT when walking on heel he would bark if the dog that is coming starts going crazy and blowing at him, and if they are On the opposite side of the sidewalk he would acknowledge them on heel, and leave it , some time could pull and whines as if he will like to go and play. I dont have other animals so i think he has not socialize enough with other dogs, could this be the reason? He is curious? He is very playful and sweet. SUGGESTIONS?
Larry, we are now rewarding bad behavior.... Not sure if I am just not understanding.. I was talking to someone the other day trying to explain then I was lost . Made sense then.. Now I need more updated 2021 info. Who else is doing this?
Hi Larry, love this video! You explain things in such a wonderful way. My 1 year old English Springer has suddenly had leash reactivity when encountering any dogs. I want to be able to re focus our training for 1 to 2 weeks like you talked about but we are in a city and need to bring her outside which means inevitably encountering other dogs. Any suggestions?
Thanks for all of your videos. I would like to hear from you how to deal with dog reacting to neighbors dogs at the fence in the back yard. 8 month old Aussie, not fearful or aggressive. However the other dogs have no training. I have done distraction, focus, and foundation training with him and he's doing well. I have yet to encounter the other dogs because I have been working on his training below his threshold. I can't control when they will be out or how they train or don't train their dogs. I want to approach this correctly so that we can work in the yard without worrying about anything else that is going on. I would like to know how the steps you would take to achieve success. I think we have a good foundation so far but I don't want to ruin what I've done. Thanks for again for all of your videos.
I just adopted an 11month pup 2 days ago. My forst dog. She knows "sit", but does not always come when called, and tries to chase the neighbor cats and chicken. Overall shes good, no barking and listens when were inside. I have a martingale collar on her and have been correcting her when she tries to chase, then she get put inside. Im hoping the "leave it" command helps settle her but she is not very motivated to learn yet, is learning place, sit, come, and leave it with food. Has no interest in toys, so im not sure how to get that predatory instinct out of her if she wont chase toys. ...any advice? She really likes playing with other dogs When can i introduce start to introduce an e collar?
Don’t use an e collar, you don’t know what you are doing, you can’t even get your dog interested in a toy. Why do you even need an e collar?!!! Get a professional involved.
Hey Larry I have a 14 week male German Shepherd. Who does good on walks for the most part but he lunges at cars and on the way back home from walk he pulls but he doesn’t pull at all walking away from the house. When he goes towards cars I don’t pull leash I just do what I have to so he doesn’t run into road and I ignore the fact that he even does it and just keep walking I don’t get mad I just keep going. Is there something else I should be doing ?
I would try and find moments to reward for NOT reacting to cars. Ask him to "sit" or something he knows well and reward, reward, reward for ignoring the cars. If he breaks the sit and tries to go after the cars, correct (pop the leash) and guide him back into the sit. Work from a far enough away distance so that your pup is not too overwhelmed. You need to get a handle on this NOW whilst he's in the critical period.
When my dog is not acting the way he should I put him in time out in the midst of the situation to try to teach him to settle without removing him from the situation? This usually means his play level has gotten too escalated. Thoughts?
My newly adopted 2 year old Aussie girl hated the prong collar at first. She still pulls with her prong collar on when seeing a bicycle riding by, but she does not hate the collar as much. In fact, she is more than willing to put the prong collar on cause she knows she will be going out possibly to play her favorite throwing game. She is conditioned to putting her prong collar on and going out to play. I play with her everyday. Plus I have 2 short training sessions with her with the prong collar. I hope sooner or later she will understand chasing and barking at bicycles does not mean anything to her except for unnecessary pain on her neck. I believe people are worrying too much about the prong collar hurting the dog. But dog skins are tough and dogs have a very high pain tolerance level. Of course dogs will scream after pulling the prong collar. But dogs and cats will always scream when they feel the pain, just like panting when they are too heated up. In fact, biting and scratching mean very little to cats even when you see blood. It happens all the time to my tasido girl when my tabby boy bites her. But she still sleeps happily beside my tabby boy all the time.
Thank you for addressing the prong and collars, I can't stand people believing they are actually helpful. If the dog stays beside you or listens to you because it hurts or is scared af, then what kind of relationship is that
Im new to your channel... What do you think of the gentle leader? Do you think it can over ride the prong collar. Really interested in your opinion... Your the first trainer i can actually put my faith in. All you say makes sense. Thank you!!!!
Any advice on how to persuade the humans in this scenario to change their behavior? That is the nugget, that is the problem. As you said, a decent trainer can counter condition with best practices or in less savoury ways. But the best methods aren't possible with a wantonly ignorant/ego-driven owner. Especially when they want a quick solution to a dangerous behavior.
That's what makes a good trainer from a bad one - bringing a client around to what's best for their dog and not them. I walk away from a client who insist on techniques I'm not prepared to do. Their are plenty of trainers out there willing to flatten dogs. I'm not that guy and don't take on clients that want something I'm not prepared to offer.
@@TeslaNick2 so the dog continues to suffer because the trainer can't get through to the human. I want to know how to get through to the human in order to help that dog! This is a case for the zen master of dog training, lol! I am not asking for too much, right? lol!
In the last days I had an epiphany. I started observing my dog, and he's always on high alert while we are walking, tail held high, he's super alert. I think he doesn't see me as a leader because he always try to pull me wherever he want, he marks every tree in the area, 90% of the times he doesn't look at me if I call him. The dog is 15 months old, can I still correct this behavior and set me up as a leader?
Easily. Your dog just needs more experience being calm when out on a walk. I would spend time just hanging out in public. Take a picnic with lots of dog friendly food and share a meal in the park. Just "being" in that environment, watching people go by, watching trees blowing in the wind etc. It's harder for a dog to relax when static (not walking) so it will take time. Keep your dog on a long line and practice helping him to relax when he gets worked up. You can add the cue "easy" during the relaxation sessions to tell your dog what you want. Stop allowing the pulling. Train a loose lead walk. If your dog is fighting the lead, you need to get that sorted first. Tyler Muto's "conversational leash work" video here on youtube is a great demonstration of the "pressure/release" method of leash handling and very powerful in training dogs to understand how to follow a leash. Put the time in and you will get passed this.
@@kristinahewer6982 thanks for sharing. I hope it will get better in the next weeks. I'm trying structured walks at least 1.5hrs a day. I hope I'm doing everything in the correct way and he will be more relaxed.
My dog was amazing with other dogs, sure excited puppy wanting to play with every dog, but now that he's 1 year old and once was attacked and almost bitten with a large dog by his throat until the off leash owner came, he has been different with male dogs. Not all of them, but a few and it happens unexpectedly. 2 times in a row it popped up when I was in a very stressed state, so I wonder if that's why my dog felt he needed to step up. Around the house I'm definitely the leader, but I wonder if he feels my social anxiety and overwhelm and steps up to protect me. One time though I did feel like I scared another small dog away before he got a chance to react and he didn't have a problem leaving the situation after. But how do I signal this control on a walk if in the house it's fine (I make him do something before any food is given, I make him sit before opening the door and then releasing etc.).
We have a 9 month old Australian Shepherd who loves the dog park and playing with all the dogs, but when she's on a leash she barks and lunges at other dogs on a leash. We have stopped walking her and I've ordered a prong and e-collar to start working with her at home. I'm watching your videos and others before training her. I just don't understand why she is fine at the dog park but not walking.
She's frustrated when on leash... try letting her see the dogs in the dog park from a distance. If she's looking, ears perked up but not whining or barking, you're at a distance she can handle (below her "threshold"). Get her to give you her attention, rinse and repeat. Move closer to the dogs. As long as she's able to refocus on you, you're good! If she can't give you her attention, move back (away) from the dogs and start over. Soon enough you'll be at the fence and she'll be behaving like she did at the beginning when you were far away. Be patient, have fun!
Sam Findlay If you’re doing the right thing in the home you’re not letting the dogs on the couch or your bed or letting them blow thru thresholds (doorways when you go outside, crates when you let them out) so the sign would be that they aren’t doing those things
@@1BrianFantana1 Correct him for trying to eat wood and offer a sensible alternative. Train a solid "leave it" and reward, reward, reward for being around wood and ignoring it.
All I want to do is walk past another dog while walking my dog😩 I don’t have to take my dog to a dog park, or anything….Its so frustrating and I feel my frustration is felt by my dog😢
Marc Houde It’s not just about stopping leash reactivity. There’s a whole process to it and he is emphasizing that which is extremely important. Foundation is very important.
TinaSade He said the fix at 4 minutes. You need to have structure in your home (not letting the dog jump on you, no counter surfing, being allowed on the couch or bed, blowing thru the door before you, blowing out of the crate as soon as you open it) That’s how you fix reactivity because reactivity isn’t a problem with the dog necessarily, it’s a problem with your relationship with the dog
Great video Larry. You are without doubt one of the greatest trainers and talkers of common sense on YT. No nonsense advice and best of all it's all free. I'm sure I speak for the vast majority of people who watch your videos, thankyou for helping our dogs to have better lives.
Folks please pay attention to what he's saying he gives the answeres in the video.
Negative comments on this video only tell us your not paying attention.
Agreed .
So, I was not getting it Watched the video twice What's the answer His videos are great Glad he is on UA-cam
LOVE this guy. I'm a trainer and have his exact point of view. I train my dog owners to have an appropriate relationship with the dog by being effective leaders who communicate clearly. People think the dog is supposed to protect them but its the owners who have to protect the dog. And the dog has to believe the owner can do that. I learned a few new things. I always start with teaching them how to walk the dog which is a great way to establish leadership and works with dogs who aren't a problem but I realize the lungers and pullers and barkers need to go through the basic training first to solidify the relationship so I'll be changing that up. Every tip and insight he gives is what I believe and teach so it is great to be confirmed.I'll be sending my clients links to his videos to back up my training, Thanks!!
super helpful video. working at various distances outside of a dog park has helped my 6 month old dog so much on just being over excited around people and dogs so I'm glad that is something you used with Link, I remember watching Link's e collar videos where you let him notice a boy playing basketball and you got his attention off the distraction. great stuff Larry.
I so appreciate these videos. You’ve helped me so much to help my 1 eyed, 80 lb. GSD who has been terribly reactive. I train with her in my cul-d-sac and have slowly introduced her back on to short walks, testing the waters so to say. So far, so good, no reactivity. Myself, being mindful of my GSD, I now understand what triggers her and what doesn’t.
Again, Thank You
It's also important to recognize leash reactivity vs. leash frustration. For a dog that is reacting because it has gotten used to always greeting other people/dogs, and is frustrated when you do not allow it, it would be -P to turn the dog around and walk away. But I LOVE that you say that taking a reactive/fearful dog away from the stimuli is a reward in itself. And even worse if the other person walks away! Then the dog is under the impression after so many times of that happening that if they bark/lunge at people, they will go away. I made the mistake with my first puppy to allow everyone to pet him and dogs to greet him on the leash, thinking it was great socialization. And a lot of my clients with leash frustration did the same thing. They would pet him and sweet talk him and he had a great time meeting new dogs. As time went on.. he would get very frustrated when we saw a person who did not greet him, and worse with dogs. Sometimes a stranger would begin walking towards us upon seeing how excited my dog was, nearly dragging me to the person, and that was SUCH a reinforcer for his inappropriate pulling, barking, and whining. Even though I said please do not pet him, he learned that sometimes, barking and pulling gets stranger's attention.
This is so me! I have been struggling with this issue with my dog and have been watching Larry in order to undo my mistakes!
I'm so happy you shared this!!! MY biggest problem is getting the owners to follow thru and continue the work when I'm not there. It's so so frustrating!! They say....I don't understand we see him/her do it perfect for you but then we walk him/her and they go right back to it. My dog must be afraid of you. Lmmfao.....little do they know that A. If that's the case the dog definitely won't listen to me AND
B. Being fearful
ervous is what's probably causing the behavior.
I try to drill it into them during training....CONSISTENCY and PATIENCE is key!! 99% of all bad behavior is created in the home and that's where it has to be fixed.
Lol you can tell in restaurant's which kids have rules at home and which ones don't. Same with dogs. You don't take ur kids to a restaurant to teach them how to eat and drink and behave......you teach them the basic essentials at home and the skills are easily transferred.
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
We _all_ get that. I've learned to walk away if the clients are refusing to put the work in. My approach is to try and make the training exercises as rewarding for the owners as well as their dog. That way the training becomes self reinforcing. Give the owners easy successes early on and they tend to stick with the training during the more challenging phases. I try and frame training drills as "games" so the owners don't feel like they are having to "work".
I love that last analogy about the kids in the restaurants. It makes it clearer to understand
I totally get what you're saying with seeing kids in a restaurant, etc. We've all seen that and think the same thing. However, this is my 3rd dog - the last two did not behave this way. He is a different breed - others were poodle/schnauzer mixes. This new guy is a boxer/beagle/pug mix and Yikes! He is very high energy, and bold. He is now almost 9 months old and from the start I needed to be firmer and quicker with him, but to no avail. I am now working with a trainer, a Starmark collar and this week an ecollar because coming when called is non-existent, greeting people and other dogs is not great and leash walking can definitely be better. Sigh.... I am truly exhausted - I walk him three times a day most days, play in the backyard and have fun time/training with him, treats etc. This is the most time I've ever spent on a dog before and I'm determined to help him learn the correct way to behave. It's definitely not me - I'm putting in the time, but I do recognize I need to do things differently with this particular dog and that is why I sought out professional training. BTW, he is 90 percent an amazing dog, loving, very smart, sleeps great, loves driving in the car and knows when pulling through a Starbucks that he is getting a "pup cup". He's a sweetie.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I adopted a dog from a Los Angeles County pound, and she has turned out to be sweet and good with all humans and a holy terror to all dogs. I frantically searched and came across Larry's work, and I am learning what to do so I help my new dog get her manners without hurting her.
Our dogs must be related 😄
Hi Larry - thank you so much for all of your videos. They’re super helpful. One request, when you reference prior videos in newer videos (especially when they’re example vids from past board and trains/private sessions), could you please link them in the description or pinned comment?
Sad that some of these comments are just so very rude. Seen this gentleman work with his malinois?
Well I have and WOW.
I also use e collars and yet my girls spirit is strong so I know I'm using it correctly. I'm so glad to have a chance to learn and grow...I'm intermediate at dog training and I hope to be advanced level like this guy some day.
I approach all reactive dogs the same way. I make their "world" smaller and smaller until they have a daily routine they can handle. We can then start building confidence because the dog is now existing in a "safe" world where we can build all the foundation work we need to start introducing challenges. That way we're all set up to tackle the triggers and the corrections are fair, understood and often very mild and we can always go back a step if the dog becomes overwhelmed.
Very well said!
Absolutely....its a big world, we don't just jump in the ring with Ali because we think we can fight! haha. Its a Kindergarten through Graduate school process! Gotta be mature enough to handle distractions/chaos. Keep it simple.
Thank you for always approaching with truth and heart for people and dogs. Love this commentary. Clear, concise, and so helpful!
People need to understand that structure and training makes for a happy and well behaved dog and handler, or pet dog owner. I saw a man with an American Bulldog with 2 leads , one on a harness...sigh and another to a flat collar. Poor guy was being dragged along the road. Training would sort this easily. Great video Larry, Thank you for sound advice : )
I have an American Bulldog and he's a puller nose in the ground all the time.. I gotta stop this.
Larry, thanks for your great content. I like your point about not over correcting and looking for the source of the reactivity and the limitations to corrections without solving the source of the reactivity. I heard you emphasize basic training, building relationship etc. However, I didn't hear you tell us how to stop reactivity, instead how NOT to stop reactivity. Help me understand, thanks.
Thanks Larry. Your videos have been a huge help to me as a beginning/amateur trainer.
More priceless information! Kia Ora from New Zealand
Why all these negative comments sound like little kids just asking for attention, just listen to the video🤦♀️ u dont like it move on
Very helpful and reinforces that my working on the foundation is what will save the day in the long run. And it does!
As always. Great explanation. Thankyou for all you do for dogs and owners 🙏🏼
Always appreciate hearing about your experiences! Any visits to the tri-state area in 2020? Nobody in Jersey like you!
I can honestly say I'd totally trust him with my bulldog...he is a very skilled trainer. Not only would I let him train her but board and train also. I respect all his principles and he personally owns and understands working type dogs, which is a bonus.
Gonna follow this thread to see if he’s got an answer :)
Always good advice! Thanks for educating people ✌🏼
Thank you for your wonderful training videos. Train for the situation not in the situation, Brilliant!
Dog reactivity is such a huge problem and in the vast majority of cases it is simply a case of of the dog not having confidence with the owners. People seem to aquire dogs and think everything just falls into place with a little bit of training. Dogs need alot of training..owners need even more training. If things were so easy we would not need professional dog trainers. If I'm walking my dog I can usually spot which dog is going to be reactive just by looking at the person and not the dog. Dogs are ultra sensitive and pick up the tiniest clues that the owner is not confident even if they themselves think they are and so then the dog acts up. To the dog an encounter is a life and death situation. Don't laugh at this, I'm being totally serious. The dog will usually growl and this is where things get out of control and escalate. The growl is so misunderstood by most owners, the dog is communicating in doggy language to the other dog" hey I'm confused and scared, stay away from me." The owner of this dog now over reacts and starts tugging hard on the leash causing more confusion.His leash being tugged causes him to pull harder and now the other dog starts reacting and the whole situation has escalated. A little pop on the leash was all that was needed or even better no pop. Shouting at the dog would also have a negative effect. The problem is also dependant on how the other dog owner reacts to his own dog. A confident dog does not growl at other dogs. Bonding with your dog is not enough, your dog must be able to trust you. Trust is the ultimate goal in training your dog. Another word of advice.. when you are out with your dog and people approach to pet your dog or let their dog meet yours....tell them to fuck off.
Great video Larry.
You're a good guy my guy.
Thanks Larry! Love your posts!
I seem to think I'm being a leader more than I'm actually being a leader. I do all the things like dog doesn't come up on furniture or in bed, threshold management, things like that. I still deal with pretty high levels of reactivity although mostly just huffing. To trainers, it's just about building leadership and it's easy but for me it's been a year long struggle. I won't give up but holy.. I'm having a hard time getting that right
I am a leader for my dog and he stills sleeps on my bed and beside me on my couch. We have a strong bond but he knows I am in charge now. My issue was not being firm enough in training. That has changed and we are having great success with eliminating reactivity on leash. Which I learned from these videos. After I had a strong foundation with our obedience, I joined an intensive outdoor dog training group. We train 3 times a week with 20 dogs. Yesterday we were in an elevator with 3 other dogs and handlers and he just sat quietly beside me. I have done this with no treats, a martingale and traffic leash. We walked all around downtown in our group and he stayed beside me. We practiced some parkour to breakup loose walking. After class we go for a fun walk and swim.
I like your office. THE CAR lol.... Great video once again.
thank you so much for sharing your insight on this topic, peace larry
Interesting, the force free and balanced people aren't too far away from each other on this topic, the corrections being the difference
what kind of work can i do at home, what kind of conditioning should i be doing, to stop him being other dog reactive i want to stop it i dont understand what i am doing wrong he is good at home and then he goes out gets really anxious and reactive
Ellen Mary try going to your yard and work your way up to going out else where
Are you regularly exposing him to new situations? And praising him? You could try taking him to a park, bring some kibble or treats and feed him each time a car drives by, a person walks by etc and he doesn’t react. Let him see good things happen in strange situations if he pays attention to you.
I think we get in the habit of avoiding exposure because we know the dogs going to react and it ends up being this cycle of avoidance
@@jennjackson4386 same as people with fear of spiders avoid them whereas if you confront the problem with knowledge you wouldn’t need to avoid anymore
Thanks for giving me some new insights!
Larry another great video that just makes things simple if you apply them. Im goning to email you a question im having with one of my new dogs? Thanks Tony
So how do you know you have a good relationship with your dog and that you are the captain of the team?
Supposedly by setting boundaries at home. Things like not allowing the dog to jump on you or sleep on couch. Come when called etc etc. Not sure if it works for all breeds like sighthound breeds.
@@memeguyTM my animals don't live in house,so like no food agression and not walking in front of me?
How much trust/respect does your dog show for you at home? For how many things does your dog defer to you for leadership and problem solving? Some examples are basic obedience, entries/exits, feeding time, non-verbal obedience out of respect, abandoning bad behavior with a simple look, approach or verbal command.
this was so good. thank you!
It's not as easy as it seems. My dog only shows leash aggression around the house. Not when I visit other places. He is territorial. He mostly gets along well with the dogs that live here and that he knows. At stranger dogs he is barking and he tries to drive them away.
He roars like a lion and gets his reaction. The other takes a detour.
Now, I think, I'll cut his walk short if he freaks out. Then it goes straight back home and then I will train hard with him at home. He has to learn that his behavior has disadvantages and that he should learn from me.
It's difficult for you with such an original dog.
Otherwise he hears very well and learns, but this behavior is in his nature. I need a stop signal that works!!! I'm thinking about training tools. But I'm not very optimistic. I will try harder.
Thanks larry love the videos
There was a time early on that I would do exactly what Larry said not to do. Wish I would have seen this 20 years ago.
Love BUTTON as always. Peace
I am missing something here. How do you fix leash reactivity? How would for example a 2 year old dog with leash reactivity be helped if they are not trained near other dogs on a walk, gradually moving closer and closer. In my experience training at home vs training in a high distraction environment like a park is completely different.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding your point. Can you consider showing us a training session to help this behavior.
Thanks for your video by the way
He says that you have to bulid a strong relationship with the dog first and a strong obedience and trust and respect from the dog because the reason the dog reacts is because it doesn't know what to do because it has no direction from the owner
Larry is spot on as ever. Unfortunately owners want a quick fix and this laying the foundation, training/re-training takes a lot of work and time that many owners are just not prepared for. The only addition I might suggest, and this comes after the foundation has been laid is to reward when the dog exhibits calming signals. I do this with some dogs and also use corrections with others. Both are utilized after the dog is “trained” with markers, luring, leash pressure (and structure/boundaries)..
Also.. I might suggest: there are a couple of “types” of reactivity. I have worked with dogs that just want to get to other dogs simply to sniff, play, interact. The leash restraint frustrates them. This is easier to address.. but address you must as it inevitably progresses as frustration builds. Other dogs are just insecure and lunge, growl etc because they don’t have that Captain Larry speaks of. This is harder to deal with and looks like aggression although it usually isn’t. Both types are addressed in the same way in my opinion - and that is how Larry describes.
_'I am missing something here. How do you fix leash reactivity?'_
By building a solid relationship and solid obedience.
_'How would for example a 2 year old dog with leash reactivity be helped if they are not trained near other dogs on a walk'_
You practice and proof all the obedience skills you will need to navigate those situations. YOU need to do the training near other dogs.
_'gradually moving closer and closer.'_
Dogs experience more pressure, the closer they are to the trigger, by creating distance you distance your dog from he "hot zone" making the situation easier to handle and easier for the dog to learn.
_'In my experience training at home vs training in a high distraction environment like a park is completely different.'_
You are correct. Dogs don't "generalise" training very well at all. What you change a variable (the environment) they see a different "picture" and have no idea what the training means. We break training down into steps to bridge those gaps to transfer the training from indoors to say your yard, then the street infront of your house, then the next street, then the park etc. The process is known as "proofing" and enables your dog to understand that "sit" means "sit" whatever environment we're in. Remember the three "D's" when training anything - "Distance, Distraction, Duration". All three factors need to be controlled to enable the dog to succeed at each difficulty level. If you struggle, you need to go back a step and try again. The longer you spend proofing, the better and easier it will be when you get into "real life" situations. Good luck !
Thank you
I appreciate the video. I work with my dog multiple times a day (5 month Doberman) and leash reactivity is really the only area where I feel I am not making progress. I believe that i have a good relationship with my puppy - though she can have stubborn moments! I feel stupid asking this but I was confused a bit when in the beginning of the video you talk about how ineffective most owners are using e-collars and prong collars to correct there dogs in these situations but then at the end you talk about using these tools as a way to apply a correction... is the difference based on the relationship that you’ve built with your dog and ensuring that they understand the correction that you are applying? Not trying to be a wise guy, I see how well dogs react to your methods so I just don’t want to mess it up!
Thank you!!
Can you please do a training video with a dog that needs reactivity training? I have been doing all my dogs obedience training and strengthening our bond. I do not know how to go about correcting the dog aggression when we’re on walks. It always fails even when trying to use positive reinforcement. One day I would love for her to have interactions with other dogs. Please help
Look up positive confusion clicker training.
Very philisophical
Larry I am from MA, I have the 2 year old GSD, with that exact issue, he has been e-collar trained. Inside house is fantastic, will place and listen great, outside different story. What are the outside training exercises i can do (the ones you didn't say you do) b4 you go to dog park? The training that I need to practice with my GSD b4 I go walking or to the dogpark. Thanks
I am in Ma. Dogs learn in small pictures. What you teach in the house has to be trained again in the yard then slowly add distractions and then new environments. House (add distractions), Yard (add distractions), A soccer field, a business etc. There is much more than that but that is why you should work with a good trainer. Good luck,
Hi Yall., great video.
So my problem is different, 1 year old standard poodle, i never go to dog parks never like the idea , he is social with people though dont like to be pet by male strangers . He is good with woman and kids, good obedience, stay, heel, he waits and sit, place/spot and crate, no couch or human bed, BUT when walking on heel he would bark if the dog that is coming starts going crazy and blowing at him, and if they are
On the opposite side of the sidewalk he would acknowledge them on heel, and leave it , some time could pull and whines as if he will like to go and play. I dont have other animals so i think he has not socialize enough with other dogs, could this be the reason? He is curious? He is very playful and sweet. SUGGESTIONS?
Larry, we are now rewarding bad behavior.... Not sure if I am just not understanding.. I was talking to someone the other day trying to explain then I was lost . Made sense then.. Now I need more updated 2021 info. Who else is doing this?
What if you have a very hot “game” terrier type like a true apbt or tosa for example
I have had my German shepherd for 4 1/2 years. She respects my husband but not me. Is it too late to do this. she is 6 yrs old.
Hi Larry, love this video! You explain things in such a wonderful way. My 1 year old English Springer has suddenly had leash reactivity when encountering any dogs. I want to be able to re focus our training for 1 to 2 weeks like you talked about but we are in a city and need to bring her outside which means inevitably encountering other dogs. Any suggestions?
parking garages, long hallways, etc
👍👍
Thanks for all of your videos. I would like to hear from you how to deal with dog reacting to neighbors dogs at the fence in the back yard. 8 month old Aussie, not fearful or aggressive. However the other dogs have no training. I have done distraction, focus, and foundation training with him and he's doing well. I have yet to encounter the other dogs because I have been working on his training below his threshold. I can't control when they will be out or how they train or don't train their dogs. I want to approach this correctly so that we can work in the yard without worrying about anything else that is going on. I would like to know how the steps you would take to achieve success. I think we have a good foundation so far but I don't want to ruin what I've done. Thanks for again for all of your videos.
Thanks, looks like I need to do a bit more work at home.. all makes sense..
I just adopted an 11month pup 2 days ago. My forst dog. She knows "sit", but does not always come when called, and tries to chase the neighbor cats and chicken. Overall shes good, no barking and listens when were inside. I have a martingale collar on her and have been correcting her when she tries to chase, then she get put inside. Im hoping the "leave it" command helps settle her but she is not very motivated to learn yet, is learning place, sit, come, and leave it with food. Has no interest in toys, so im not sure how to get that predatory instinct out of her if she wont chase toys. ...any advice? She really likes playing with other dogs
When can i introduce start to introduce an e collar?
Don’t use an e collar, you don’t know what you are doing, you can’t even get your dog interested in a toy. Why do you even need an e collar?!!! Get a professional involved.
Hey Larry I have a 14 week male German Shepherd. Who does good on walks for the most part but he lunges at cars and on the way back home from walk he pulls but he doesn’t pull at all walking away from the house. When he goes towards cars I don’t pull leash I just do what I have to so he doesn’t run into road and I ignore the fact that he even does it and just keep walking I don’t get mad I just keep going. Is there something else I should be doing ?
I would try and find moments to reward for NOT reacting to cars. Ask him to "sit" or something he knows well and reward, reward, reward for ignoring the cars. If he breaks the sit and tries to go after the cars, correct (pop the leash) and guide him back into the sit. Work from a far enough away distance so that your pup is not too overwhelmed. You need to get a handle on this NOW whilst he's in the critical period.
When my dog is not acting the way he should I put him in time out in the midst of the situation to try to teach him to settle without removing him from the situation? This usually means his play level has gotten too escalated. Thoughts?
Could you change these behaviors for a 2 years old rottweiler?
Yes all dogs live in the moment
My newly adopted 2 year old Aussie girl hated the prong collar at first. She still pulls with her prong collar on when seeing a bicycle riding by, but she does not hate the collar as much. In fact, she is more than willing to put the prong collar on cause she knows she will be going out possibly to play her favorite throwing game. She is conditioned to putting her prong collar on and going out to play. I play with her everyday. Plus I have 2 short training sessions with her with the prong collar. I hope sooner or later she will understand chasing and barking at bicycles does not mean anything to her except for unnecessary pain on her neck. I believe people are worrying too much about the prong collar hurting the dog. But dog skins are tough and dogs have a very high pain tolerance level. Of course dogs will scream after pulling the prong collar. But dogs and cats will always scream when they feel the pain, just like panting when they are too heated up. In fact, biting and scratching mean very little to cats even when you see blood. It happens all the time to my tasido girl when my tabby boy bites her. But she still sleeps happily beside my tabby boy all the time.
Thank you for addressing the prong and collars, I can't stand people believing they are actually helpful. If the dog stays beside you or listens to you because it hurts or is scared af, then what kind of relationship is that
Im new to your channel... What do you think of the gentle leader? Do you think it can over ride the prong collar. Really interested in your opinion... Your the first trainer i can actually put my faith in. All you say makes sense. Thank you!!!!
Any advice on how to persuade the humans in this scenario to change their behavior? That is the nugget, that is the problem. As you said, a decent trainer can counter condition with best practices or in less savoury ways. But the best methods aren't possible with a wantonly ignorant/ego-driven owner. Especially when they want a quick solution to a dangerous behavior.
Dog training is a misnomer. It is people training. And some people pretend they want to be trained but in their heart of hearts they refuse to change.
That's what makes a good trainer from a bad one - bringing a client around to what's best for their dog and not them. I walk away from a client who insist on techniques I'm not prepared to do. Their are plenty of trainers out there willing to flatten dogs. I'm not that guy and don't take on clients that want something I'm not prepared to offer.
@@TeslaNick2 so the dog continues to suffer because the trainer can't get through to the human. I want to know how to get through to the human in order to help that dog! This is a case for the zen master of dog training, lol! I am not asking for too much, right? lol!
@@TeslaNick2 I completely agree with you. Just looking for that nugget of wisdom that would make it not so.
@@christinemose7308 Oh right, I get you ! I'm no help there...
So basically, training tools are just that, tools, not crutches or fix-it-alls. How do you correct a dog for something it doesn't know how to do?
In the last days I had an epiphany. I started observing my dog, and he's always on high alert while we are walking, tail held high, he's super alert. I think he doesn't see me as a leader because he always try to pull me wherever he want, he marks every tree in the area, 90% of the times he doesn't look at me if I call him. The dog is 15 months old, can I still correct this behavior and set me up as a leader?
Easily. Your dog just needs more experience being calm when out on a walk. I would spend time just hanging out in public. Take a picnic with lots of dog friendly food and share a meal in the park. Just "being" in that environment, watching people go by, watching trees blowing in the wind etc. It's harder for a dog to relax when static (not walking) so it will take time. Keep your dog on a long line and practice helping him to relax when he gets worked up. You can add the cue "easy" during the relaxation sessions to tell your dog what you want. Stop allowing the pulling. Train a loose lead walk. If your dog is fighting the lead, you need to get that sorted first. Tyler Muto's "conversational leash work" video here on youtube is a great demonstration of the "pressure/release" method of leash handling and very powerful in training dogs to understand how to follow a leash. Put the time in and you will get passed this.
See Larry’s video on the structured walk- the best training tool ever🙂
I've been doing it with a 3 yr old rescue. Patience & consistency.& develop good relationship first..age doesn't matter
@@kristinahewer6982 thanks for sharing. I hope it will get better in the next weeks. I'm trying structured walks at least 1.5hrs a day. I hope I'm doing everything in the correct way and he will be more relaxed.
This is a good video, however in my country both e collar or prong is prohibited.
My dog was amazing with other dogs, sure excited puppy wanting to play with every dog, but now that he's 1 year old and once was attacked and almost bitten with a large dog by his throat until the off leash owner came, he has been different with male dogs. Not all of them, but a few and it happens unexpectedly. 2 times in a row it popped up when I was in a very stressed state, so I wonder if that's why my dog felt he needed to step up. Around the house I'm definitely the leader, but I wonder if he feels my social anxiety and overwhelm and steps up to protect me. One time though I did feel like I scared another small dog away before he got a chance to react and he didn't have a problem leaving the situation after. But how do I signal this control on a walk if in the house it's fine (I make him do something before any food is given, I make him sit before opening the door and then releasing etc.).
😎😍
We have a 9 month old Australian Shepherd who loves the dog park and playing with all the dogs, but when she's on a leash she barks and lunges at other dogs on a leash. We have stopped walking her and I've ordered a prong and e-collar to start working with her at home. I'm watching your videos and others before training her. I just don't understand why she is fine at the dog park but not walking.
She's frustrated when on leash... try letting her see the dogs in the dog park from a distance. If she's looking, ears perked up but not whining or barking, you're at a distance she can handle (below her "threshold"). Get her to give you her attention, rinse and repeat. Move closer to the dogs. As long as she's able to refocus on you, you're good! If she can't give you her attention, move back (away) from the dogs and start over. Soon enough you'll be at the fence and she'll be behaving like she did at the beginning when you were far away. Be patient, have fun!
✌️👌🙏❤️👍
How do I know if what I'm doing at home and with the dog is right, what sort of signs should I be seeing?
Sam Findlay Less reactivity
@@joshuahaley4367 will I see any other signs at home before seeing if there are results on the walks?
Sam Findlay If you’re doing the right thing in the home you’re not letting the dogs on the couch or your bed or letting them blow thru thresholds (doorways when you go outside, crates when you let them out) so the sign would be that they aren’t doing those things
@@joshuahaley4367 that's great, I'm doing all those things and he's pretty good with them really, any tips to stop him eating wood??
@@1BrianFantana1 Correct him for trying to eat wood and offer a sensible alternative. Train a solid "leave it" and reward, reward, reward for being around wood and ignoring it.
How can I be leader to my dog ifi speak soft?!
All I want to do is walk past another dog while walking my dog😩 I don’t have to take my dog to a dog park, or anything….Its so frustrating and I feel my frustration is felt by my dog😢
Larry please look at my email if you will please
Sound problem??
Prong collar best tool period.
prong collar doesn’t work to well without a leash, leash best tool ever, Period
Willie Moreno ha yesss lol
18 min video: "do train dog good, don't train dog bad"....ok thanks...
You ramble too much. 5 minutes in and you still haven't explained your title..."how to stop leash reactivity. " I'm out.
Marc Houde It’s not just about stopping leash reactivity. There’s a whole process to it and he is emphasizing that which is extremely important. Foundation is very important.
There isn’t a quick fix to reactivity. Your close minded thinking will limit you in dog training
7 min in and I’m still waiting lol
TinaSade He said the fix at 4 minutes. You need to have structure in your home (not letting the dog jump on you, no counter surfing, being allowed on the couch or bed, blowing thru the door before you, blowing out of the crate as soon as you open it) That’s how you fix reactivity because reactivity isn’t a problem with the dog necessarily, it’s a problem with your relationship with the dog
Lazy people man. If you’re having a problem with reactivity you can’t sit through a free 18 minute video with good information?
Thank you