Here are the chapters of the video for your convenience: 00:00 Introduction 00:35 Lens Introduction and facts 06:30 Side story 14:32 Lens Inspection 17:50 Lens Disassembly 22:24 Lens Cleaning 24:34 Engravings Repainting 25:10 Optics Cleaning 30:49 Reassembly 32:55 Haze Cleaning 35:31 Outro
I own the same, 35/1.4 Contax Distagon. It's pretty clear, that the "Ninja stars" bokeh of the AE version is somewhat worse than the MM (=MultiMode) version. Also the MM does have not only the green smallest aperture, but also newer T* multicoatings. My 35/1.4 seems somehow a kind of hybrid, into the AE - MM transition phase. It's AE from it's barrel, but the rear lens mount clearly shows a MM C/Y bajonet (silver, instead of the all black AE mount) I got a decent deal from a friend of mine - because the Distagon was NOS, hence mean still *is* NOS, because i left it inside the box. I hardly wanted this lens since 89...i do own it now for some months, but haven't used it. Paperbox, zeiss quality control paper certificate, original plastic foil, and the matching leather pouch besides the styropor is all original.
So great, to see one of these stunners doing great again. I am sure, i'd get very nervous seeing it disassembled into pieces, because i can't service it on my own. I am uber careful with all of my lenses, even when using them, shooting photographs. I do think, the small blank metal edges need to be recolored black again, and this lens also deserves the original Contax lens cap.
Wow finally a new filmmaking video. I love your videos Areia and have been waiting for more videos like this. Thanks a lot 🙏🏾 Can you make a video on how you capture or tips on capturing broll of models. Id also love to hear about your process on creating a good image. How you expose the image and your colour grading
This is a truly fabulous video and as an owner of an AEG 35mm F1.4 you have my thanks!!! Do you have any plans to produce a video on how to calibrate this particular or other Contax lenses. I've been looking online and I can't find anything. A video demonstrating the calibration process would be so very, very helpful!!!
Hello, great job and very informative video. I am a huge fan of Contax Zeiss lenses and agree with everything you said. What I want is modding them into my video kit and putting the Leitax Canon mount on top of the CY mount. For this I have to remove the screws and found out that especially AEG version have very stubborn screws and are actually glued. After many readings and watching videos suggestion is applying heat on the screw, even Simmod lenses do it this way. But as you said we always need proper tools and how to use them, no one mentions what temperature should be used. I have a heat gun with a range of 100 to 500C and I do not want to damage the lens but also not to strip the screw. Do you have and advice? It would much appreciated.
Hi! Thank you for the great video. I have the same lens (mm version) and the front floating group does not rotate when I focus. The front ring stays in position as well along with the body. the group is stuck to the metal housing and not turning. As a result I have severe edge distortion... Any idea what to do here? Any feedback will be appreciated! Thanks!!
Hi Areia, great video :) Do you happen to know how to remove the rear lens element from a Distagon C/Y 18 F/4 ? I have a fungus spot that is bothering me ... thx :)
You should have a patreon, id love to join. Or a place where we could pay to learn more in-depth from you. Id love it. A course would also be nice, if pay hundreds of dollars to learn from you
Love this and your other servicing video! Excited for more! I know you mentioned about showing the floating group calibration in another video, but was just wondering how you calibrate infinity without a collimator. Also, do you check to see if the focus distances line up or are the distance marks on these lenses more for reference rather than being perfectly accurate? Thanks!
Thank you Ben. At the infinity mark the lens should be able to go just a tiny bit over infinity, not be exactly on infinity. This guarantees the infinity is at the middle of the DOF and thus the sharpest possible and allows allows for mount variance. It's how all modern lenses are calibrated too. Infinity calibration is pretty simple without any special equipment. Your already calibrated lenses are a good indication of how it should be and how the lens should behave. You can do it simply by pointing your camera and lens at a very far object, the stars being the best possible of course. You can use the camera's zoom features or take photos on a tripod, while adjusting the lens. If you do it a few times, it will be something so simple and obvious.
@@AreiaMedia Thanks so much! Sorry for not responding! Could I also ask what grease you use for different helicoids, and the grease for the iris section on the 21mm f/2.8 please? Thanks again!
I own one of these mine in very bad conditions, helicoid not working and looking to service it here in the EU, any suggestion on who could do that? Grazie
Nice video Areia, I have a some damaged vintage lenses I’ll test this on. Thanks for the video 🙏🏾 where can we buy the materials and the tools you used to service the lenses?
Hi, thanks for the video. Right now though, i am lost in the part of reinstalling the floating group. your video has a cut exactly in the moment that it is supposed to show this part... i dont know if the the floating group supposed to touch the head of the screws of the ring, is it? i dont know how to solve this, would appreciate an answer or disclosure. thank you Areia Media
another question, ive noticed that the floating group doesnt actually rotate, but just follow the movement of the barrel that is connected to the mount. if you place the lens in the camera and rotate the focus ring instead you will notice that the zeiss name wont rotate (the one that rotates is the contax 18mm f4)
Thanks for this very well-presented instruction video. My copy works perfectly using a helicoid adapter on my mirrorless digital camera. However, it does not focus to infinity on my Contax C/Y-mount cameras nor on my fixed adapter. Is there any simple way to make that +/- millimeter adjustment easily? I already have removed the rubber grip.
Hello Steve. Yes, you have to slightly unscrew each of the screws around the focus ring, till the focus ring becomes light and is not moving the lens helicoid with it. Do not unscrew the two screws on the top. Then you can put the lens on your camera and readjust the focus ring while aiming at infinity. Tighten a couple of screws and turn the ring. Repeat till you are satisfied, the finally tighten all the screws. Do mind, if you unscrew the screws too much the inner gold coupling ring (which you see i am adjusting using a toothpick) could get dislocated and a full dissasembly will be required to put tighten the focus ring correctly. Also, you have to take very small steps st adjusting infinity (relaxing, turning and retightening the focus ring) otherwise the helicoid could get decoupled. So proceed with a lot of caution.
@@AreiaMedia Thank you again for the clear instructions. It was scary a couple of days, as I had a very difficult time (as you warned) getting the internal ring to sit firmly and to grab it to turn to infinity. I felt I might have totally ruined the expensive lens. Finally I gained infinity focus on my C/Y cameras and very slightly beyond on my E-mount adapters. However, now the mirrors hang up on both my Contax RTS II and Contax 139 Quartz. Strangely, the mirrors work fine on my Yashica C/Y cameras. And, my only other Zeiss lenses--Distagon 28mm/2.8 AEJ--has exactly the same problem. I probably should just be happy the Zeiss lenses work find on my E-mount adapters. 🤔Thanks again!
18:34 what is the normal distance at minimum focus and at infinity? I got the floating element out and didn't do any markings... The usual thing would be to make a marking on the side on the floating group and the lens barrel just where the helicoid comes off, but I didn't... Thanks!
You will have to put it at a rough position and tighten the screws on the floating element ring. Mine was 17mm when at infant as I show in the video. Then go to a chart with a camera on a tripod. First focus the lens, then unscrew the three screws slightly. Then zoom in the corners 10x and turn the floaring group till you get the sharpest image. Repeat for the other corners. You might have to refocus the lens at some point and do it all over again if your floating element was way off. When you get the best performance possible, tighten the 3 screws and you are all set. It's much better to so this on a full frame high MP camera with liveview and zoom in capabilities.
Any dish soap will do fine. The wiping needs some trial and error to get the best technique to not leave any strikes. Make sure to inspect with a flashlight to see if theybare really clean because usually it can look clean under nornal light but is still full of smudges.
Either the connection between the iris ring and the iris mechanism or the blades are stuck by oil? Put the ring at f16 and try to control the iris with the lever on the back of the mount to see if the iris works alright first.
@@AreiaMedia Hi I manage to find the issue. The bronze circlip needs to remove and turn the aperture back to position to match the guiding groove. Thank you for your reply.
The first lens I ever bought was a contax 50mm f1.4 based on your advice and its the best lens ever and I love it. Thanks 🙏🏾 Do you colour grade in davinci? If so, how do you do it? What is your colour grading workflow? And how you use your nodes to achieve a good image.
Here are the chapters of the video for your convenience:
00:00 Introduction
00:35 Lens Introduction and facts
06:30 Side story
14:32 Lens Inspection
17:50 Lens Disassembly
22:24 Lens Cleaning
24:34 Engravings Repainting
25:10 Optics Cleaning
30:49 Reassembly
32:55 Haze Cleaning
35:31 Outro
We love you and appreciate your great service for the contax community. I learnt a lot from you!
I own the same, 35/1.4 Contax Distagon. It's pretty clear, that the "Ninja stars" bokeh of the AE version is somewhat worse than the MM (=MultiMode) version. Also the MM does have not only the green smallest aperture, but also newer T* multicoatings. My 35/1.4 seems somehow a kind of hybrid, into the AE - MM transition phase. It's AE from it's barrel, but the rear lens mount clearly shows a MM C/Y bajonet (silver, instead of the all black AE mount) I got a decent deal from a friend of mine - because the Distagon was NOS, hence mean still *is* NOS, because i left it inside the box. I hardly wanted this lens since 89...i do own it now for some months, but haven't used it. Paperbox, zeiss quality control paper certificate, original plastic foil, and the matching leather pouch besides the styropor is all original.
you are a legend! ill send you my 35mm 1.4 one day to fix its bumpy and hard focus haha
Top job, Jun and this is excellent content. Well done!
So great, to see one of these stunners doing great again. I am sure, i'd get very nervous seeing it disassembled into pieces, because i can't service it on my own. I am uber careful with all of my lenses, even when using them, shooting photographs. I do think, the small blank metal edges need to be recolored black again, and this lens also deserves the original Contax lens cap.
Wow finally a new filmmaking video. I love your videos Areia and have been waiting for more videos like this. Thanks a lot 🙏🏾 Can you make a video on how you capture or tips on capturing broll of models. Id also love to hear about your process on creating a good image. How you expose the image and your colour grading
nice work 👍
This is a truly fabulous video and as an owner of an AEG 35mm F1.4 you have my thanks!!! Do you have any plans to produce a video on how to calibrate this particular or other Contax lenses. I've been looking online and I can't find anything. A video demonstrating the calibration process would be so very, very helpful!!!
Hello, great job and very informative video. I am a huge fan of Contax Zeiss lenses and agree with everything you said. What I want is modding them into my video kit and putting the Leitax Canon mount on top of the CY mount. For this I have to remove the screws and found out that especially AEG version have very stubborn screws and are actually glued. After many readings and watching videos suggestion is applying heat on the screw, even Simmod lenses do it this way. But as you said we always need proper tools and how to use them, no one mentions what temperature should be used. I have a heat gun with a range of 100 to 500C and I do not want to damage the lens but also not to strip the screw. Do you have and advice? It would much appreciated.
Really enjoyed this! Would love to collaborate on a few videos in the future!
Hi! Thank you for the great video. I have the same lens (mm version) and the front floating group does not rotate when I focus. The front ring stays in position as well along with the body. the group is stuck to the metal housing and not turning. As a result I have severe edge distortion... Any idea what to do here? Any feedback will be appreciated! Thanks!!
Hi Areia, great video :) Do you happen to know how to remove the rear lens element from a Distagon C/Y 18 F/4 ? I have a fungus spot that is bothering me ... thx :)
You should have a patreon, id love to join. Or a place where we could pay to learn more in-depth from you. Id love it. A course would also be nice, if pay hundreds of dollars to learn from you
Love this and your other servicing video! Excited for more!
I know you mentioned about showing the floating group calibration in another video, but was just wondering how you calibrate infinity without a collimator. Also, do you check to see if the focus distances line up or are the distance marks on these lenses more for reference rather than being perfectly accurate?
Thanks!
Thank you Ben. At the infinity mark the lens should be able to go just a tiny bit over infinity, not be exactly on infinity. This guarantees the infinity is at the middle of the DOF and thus the sharpest possible and allows allows for mount variance. It's how all modern lenses are calibrated too. Infinity calibration is pretty simple without any special equipment. Your already calibrated lenses are a good indication of how it should be and how the lens should behave. You can do it simply by pointing your camera and lens at a very far object, the stars being the best possible of course. You can use the camera's zoom features or take photos on a tripod, while adjusting the lens. If you do it a few times, it will be something so simple and obvious.
@@AreiaMedia Thanks so much! Sorry for not responding!
Could I also ask what grease you use for different helicoids, and the grease for the iris section on the 21mm f/2.8 please?
Thanks again!
I own one of these mine in very bad conditions, helicoid not working and looking to service it here in the EU, any suggestion on who could do that? Grazie
Hello Giovanni. I have a link at the description. Just send me a message and I can take care of it!
Nice video Areia, I have a some damaged vintage lenses I’ll test this on. Thanks for the video 🙏🏾 where can we buy the materials and the tools you used to service the lenses?
Hi, thanks for the video. Right now though, i am lost in the part of reinstalling the floating group. your video has a cut exactly in the moment that it is supposed to show this part... i dont know if the the floating group supposed to touch the head of the screws of the ring, is it? i dont know how to solve this, would appreciate an answer or disclosure. thank you Areia Media
the ring doesnt seem to fit anywhere, its always loose... pls help!
another question, ive noticed that the floating group doesnt actually rotate, but just follow the movement of the barrel that is connected to the mount. if you place the lens in the camera and rotate the focus ring instead you will notice that the zeiss name wont rotate (the one that rotates is the contax 18mm f4)
Thanks for this very well-presented instruction video. My copy works perfectly using a helicoid adapter on my mirrorless digital camera. However, it does not focus to infinity on my Contax C/Y-mount cameras nor on my fixed adapter. Is there any simple way to make that +/- millimeter adjustment easily? I already have removed the rubber grip.
Hello Steve. Yes, you have to slightly unscrew each of the screws around the focus ring, till the focus ring becomes light and is not moving the lens helicoid with it. Do not unscrew the two screws on the top.
Then you can put the lens on your camera and readjust the focus ring while aiming at infinity. Tighten a couple of screws and turn the ring. Repeat till you are satisfied, the finally tighten all the screws.
Do mind, if you unscrew the screws too much the inner gold coupling ring (which you see i am adjusting using a toothpick) could get dislocated and a full dissasembly will be required to put tighten the focus ring correctly. Also, you have to take very small steps st adjusting infinity (relaxing, turning and retightening the focus ring) otherwise the helicoid could get decoupled. So proceed with a lot of caution.
@@AreiaMedia Great! Thanks again.
@@AreiaMedia Thank you again for the clear instructions. It was scary a couple of days, as I had a very difficult time (as you warned) getting the internal ring to sit firmly and to grab it to turn to infinity. I felt I might have totally ruined the expensive lens. Finally I gained infinity focus on my C/Y cameras and very slightly beyond on my E-mount adapters. However, now the mirrors hang up on both my Contax RTS II and Contax 139 Quartz. Strangely, the mirrors work fine on my Yashica C/Y cameras. And, my only other Zeiss lenses--Distagon 28mm/2.8 AEJ--has exactly the same problem. I probably should just be happy the Zeiss lenses work find on my E-mount adapters. 🤔Thanks again!
18:34 what is the normal distance at minimum focus and at infinity? I got the floating element out and didn't do any markings... The usual thing would be to make a marking on the side on the floating group and the lens barrel just where the helicoid comes off, but I didn't... Thanks!
You will have to put it at a rough position and tighten the screws on the floating element ring. Mine was 17mm when at infant as I show in the video. Then go to a chart with a camera on a tripod. First focus the lens, then unscrew the three screws slightly. Then zoom in the corners 10x and turn the floaring group till you get the sharpest image. Repeat for the other corners. You might have to refocus the lens at some point and do it all over again if your floating element was way off. When you get the best performance possible, tighten the 3 screws and you are all set. It's much better to so this on a full frame high MP camera with liveview and zoom in capabilities.
@@AreiaMedia Thanks, will do that.
What soap did you use with the water, to clean up the glass elements?
Any dish soap will do fine. The wiping needs some trial and error to get the best technique to not leave any strikes. Make sure to inspect with a flashlight to see if theybare really clean because usually it can look clean under nornal light but is still full of smudges.
@@AreiaMedia Thank you for the quick and thorough answer!
I have a 35mm f1.4 and the Aperture won't follow the ring when turned. It's a mm version what could be wrong?
Either the connection between the iris ring and the iris mechanism or the blades are stuck by oil?
Put the ring at f16 and try to control the iris with the lever on the back of the mount to see if the iris works alright first.
@@AreiaMedia Hi I manage to find the issue. The bronze circlip needs to remove and turn the aperture back to position to match the guiding groove. Thank you for your reply.
The first lens I ever bought was a contax 50mm f1.4 based on your advice and its the best lens ever and I love it. Thanks 🙏🏾 Do you colour grade in davinci? If so, how do you do it? What is your colour grading workflow? And how you use your nodes to achieve a good image.