Wow, I just dodged a bullet today! Thank you for your immensely informative video explaining your technique and equipment. I put in an offer to buy a Corona-type system with a plastic gun on eBay yesterday. this morning my offer was rejected. After watching your video I now knew what I ACTUALLY needed. Today I hunted for a Tribo-type system and found an aluminum MSW-PCS-50 gun that was a whopping GBP £40.00 cheaper than the one on eBay, and included shipping. Powder coating is not something I'll be doing every day, so I wanted minimal investment. I would not have achieved this without watching your video. I am delighted. Thank you!
I've been powdercoating small (mostly motorcycle) parts for years! I've got a small Toaster oven for small parts, and an old kitchen oven in my garage for somewhat larger parts. I've LOVED the results! Fast and easy. I've got a relatively cheap corona type system. The advantage to it is that I don't need my compressor as it has a small built-in fan to propel the powder. For a "booth", I usually just use a cardboard box laid on it's side, which I blow out with air afterwards, then store all my equipment inside it until next time.
Excellent presentation and concise easy to understand . You have an accent when speaking but the English coming out of you is clear and comprehensible . Great topic .
Thank you for this well done video. It just showed up this morning in the recommended. I have wanted to start doing powder coating. You really showed how easy it is to get started. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this. It has helped me out showing me that it really isn't that hard to do. I see it all comes down to prep work and a heating booth. With practice my work will look professional. Thanks again.
Instead of clipping the earth to the part, could you connect it to the rail the part is hanging from and make the connection through the metal wire the part is hanging on ? Could do multiple parts at once then. Great video. Just wish I had space in my garage for an oven. It’s full of old cars !
I am actually a manager of a powder coating company in Aus. 93% of the powder we use is non toxic and the other powders we get from China & Norway are a little toxic (about 5% risk) but we wear masks at all times plus use a filtration system that when the powder is being sprayed all the loose powder is pulled towards the filters making even safer for our coater. Our ovens are 9mx3mx3m with 6 burners. Our dip tanks are also 9m long by 1800 deep, for all our aluminium after it's been coated and baked off, I use an elcometer to randomly check the micron count, which the perfect count is 80. I can safely say the way you are using that oven is not a problem at all and looks to be very handy for what you are coating. I'd be interested in how you prep your aluminium bud.. Keep up the good work, and if you have anything you are unsure about, let me know and I'll see if I can help you.
Nice walkthrough. Got me a industrial owen a few years ago and bought a PID to run it but have not had the time to start powdercoating. This video make me want to revive my project!
Here we go again Steve, on parallel lines ! I chose the Tribo system as the best for my application, I also use an old (much older than your one), industrial oven, this system is an excellent choice of home coating, and is really durable, I coat lead bullets with it, and it holds up even at high velocities, but I do stay with the gloss finish, I find that here(South of France) ,the sun can make the matt finish turn very powdery, like the side steps on my Defender, so I do not use the matt/semi matt, one thing I have read about the heating is that it should never be conducted in an oven used for food as the fumes can be toxic, having inhaled the clouds of fumes which come out of the oven I can understand that. Stay safe ! Chris B.
@@D3Sshooter Not yet Steve, only steel, lead and cast iron, but I am about to dry powder my Vincent aluminium castings, I have etch primed them, so there should not be a bonding problem, I did expect some bonding problems with lead bullets, but I have crushed them flat without any flaking. Happy Christmas to you, Chris B.
Great video! One think worth noting, its preferable to use a brush to sweep up excess powder off your floor as a vacuum cleaner could ignite the fine powder (It's unlikely but, treat this fine dust in the same way that you'd treat fine petrol fumes in regard to flames/sparks if you plan to be welding or angle grinding nearby) better to be safe than sorry
Jealous of that oven! One quick tip is to always start the pressure with the gun pointed next to the part, not straight at it. Starting the spray with the gun aimed at the part can either blow a clump of paint onto the part or release a puff of air which blows paint off of it. Hadn't seen that type of gun before. Great video!
Great idea on the oven, here in OZ prices range between 5000 euros for something like yours. I'm going to a commercial over repair shop to try my luck!!. Many thanks.
Nice video. I like how you set things up with basics first and also give realistic cost info. And very well organized. A question and a comment: Q: would the powder not clog up the filters in a paint booth fairly fast? C: I have had mixed outcome with even high quality (commercially) powder-coated parts. What I've experienced is that the coating is nice while intact but if it gets damaged somehow, like a scratch going through, water will seep in and start to rust the part underneath the coating and you can't see that, until the coating falls off in big flakes, and then it's a bad surprise.
Thanks for the comments, I keep the powder near the house boiler, nice and warm and most of all dry. Never had an issue with it. Of course , If its in the open air for a longer time it might clog. There are special base coats to avoid the issue you listed, followed by a color coat and finally a clear coat . Most issues are because the surface was not clean or grease when it was coated and then yu can get those issues indeed.
Great video! Succinct and informative. I'm in western Canada. The cheapest industrial oven I found that would accommodate my needs, (about 6 cubic feet), was a used one at $600 cdn. , way too much for me. Looks like I'll have to build my own.
I`ve got the same gun. It`s very good. I also have expensive corona gun, but I don`t use it anymore when I got this tribo gun. Reason is that this doesn`t have faraday effect so you get the powder to deep pockets etc. which were pain with the corona. And this gun was four times cheaper.
Mine tinkit a very good presentation i always thought of powdercoating as a black art tjank you for enlightening meand i will look foward to your next video regards from australia 😊😊😊😊😊😊
I used to specialise in coating motorcycle parts, and although you are not wrong per see, it's not quite as simple as you describe. Parts are better if sandblasted (not bead) as this provides a better key, it is also uniform, the polyester powder is best, Epoxy is cheaper but not UV stable, the Faraday cage is a real PITA, but preheating gets around this, for a makeshift oven, you can build a simple wooden cupboard and line it with household dry wall sheets then cover with aluminium foil, a fan is useful too, a 5w PC fan is enough, as this prevents hot spots within the oven, I used a simple setup like this when we first started back in the early 90s, we used 4 x 2kw electric hob elements, in a steel box, 180c for 20 minutes at full blast, no need to use a thermal switch, keep air pressure as low as it needs to be but enough to propel the powder.
first time i did power coating my coating was way to thick. i measured the coating thickness with a PosiTector. it was around 4-6 times thicker than recommended. you dont need a ton on it just need to cover it. its harder to sand blast off than paint if it looks bad.
I can see application for this but I have had problems with coated parts. On my former truck (Ford) the chassis and a lot of the running gear was coated with this, in an atmosphere of rain, snow, and flying grit, little holes develop in the coating that allow water penetration and rust to develop , the rust process continues under the surface that doesn't show on the surface until 'surprise' it does, the vehicle body, painted the usual way had no rust. To give an example, the differential cover rusted thru until it leaked, the replacement part, made by Ford in Mexico (no EPA rules against painting) never had this problem. By the way, the engine oil pan was coated this way with the same results, that's why it's not my truck anymore.
Thanks for the comments, indeed there are applications where this works well like on my race car, and where I would not apply it, like on the chassis of car or devices that are often in harsh environements
Interessante video, hier heb ik iets van opgestoken en het resulaat mag gezien zijn. Vroeger maakte ik wel n's gebruik van een afgedankte keukenoven om bepaalde coatings af te bakken. Dat ging prima, en de oven was helemaal gratis !
Amazing video. One reason why I'm a little bit sceptical about powder coating is because I've seen the paint sort of peeling off once it gets some minor damage and dirt would get underneath which would then lead to rust. I don't know if the quality has just been poor or is that something normal to powder coating... (Have never tried it myself, but now I might)
That is not strictly true The part does need to be clean all as described however cleaning alone does not stop rust creeping under the coating, this creeping occurs when the coating is damaged down to the base metal that area rusts then spreads The only way to stop this is an additional process, called as pre treatment, that is like a super primary coat usually of a chemical nature, hope it helps
@@garyjones385 The cleaner the part the better the adhesion, and indeed for some materials a base coat or primer is needed followed by several other coats , maybe ending with a clear coat. And yes you are right , if it is chipped then there is a big change that it will rust and push off the coating.
Right. But is chipping more likely to happen with powder coating than with conventional paint, assuming quality is top notch on both cases? That's probably true also that many of the powder coated every day items (mostly all from China anyway) are probably produced as cheaply as possible, most likely with a single coat of powder and without any primer.
Great video again. Thank you for all informative videos. I would like to ask if a frame can be powdercoated. In my situation, the frame of a 1984 Toyota BJ46. What are cons and pros of such kind of application. What would you do to your cars frame, if you were me? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the comments, well what I have shown here are some very basic powder coating methods for small parts. For a frame I would go for multi coats of paint. As a frame always flexes a bit. Powder coating is great but it takes a lot of effort to do it on a frame . Not sure how I would be able to bake a complete frame.
Thank you for tips. Mean alot to me. I will take definitely a professional help. But as far as I understand, powder coating is more durable than paint for a frame. Maybe I am wrong. Are there different type of powders more suitable for frames or are all of the powders the same? And a final question, if you were me and if you had chance for both powder coating and painting , what would you prefer?
Indeed, That is backwards. I do know why, as I am dyslexic and the funny part is that I don't even realise it when creating and editing the video. Its only when someone mentions it that i realise that its backwards. lol
I'm curious to know whether the powders used are *thermoplastics* or *thermosets* (like bakelite). It seems from your description that they are all thermoplastics, in which case they could easily melt under racing conditions on brake parts, even potentially the caliper.
“Cloth free lint” seems the appropriate name for the shit my boss makes me use for degreasing. 😂 But seriously tho, this guy is a treasure. Basically putting money in our pockets.
I prefer epoxy primer with fibre glass fibres. It protects raw steel/iron extremely well. Not as good as powder does, but it is not far off and doesn't require compressor, dry air or special guns.
If you want to powder coat a piece that has been previously painted, does it have to be stripped down to bare metal or just sanded to remove the glossy finish?
Will you ever use japanning on car parts or is it only for tools, etc? I know japanning is much more complicated, and messy! Which one will give the better finish?
Could you suggest to me a method on how we retrieve data from this kind of oven to give customer a temperature-time graph (some call it a temperature uniformity graph from Oven).
is it worth it to buy all those things or just go to the shop and leave the shop do the painting. I mean i asked from the shop and painting is going to cost 200 and those thing cost the same amount :D
That depends if you want to have the parts when you need them and if you do it often.... The pro jobs will be better quality but more expensive... So its all about what you expect
Hey, thanks for a great tutorial. One question though - should it always be a bare metal to do a powder coating? Can I apply second, third... layer on powder coated or any other type painted parts already? Thank you so much, sensei!
Hi, well you need a good surface to work on.. I always use bare metal. But you can apply powder coat on powder coat. In fact for some materials you first wil need a primer powder coat , followed by the desired colour coat and some even apply a clear powder coat to finish it all.. So lots of option and products , always check the specification of the powder.
I think you've lost the love for poor ole Rusty! Should Old Acquaintance be forgot, and never thought upon; The flames of Love extinguished, and full past and gone: Is thy sweet Heart now grown so cold, that loving Breast of thine; That thou canst never once reflect On Auld Lang Syne. As the old year ends and the new one begins, I fear that Ole Rusty will be forgot. Great video again by the way. I like the idea of the oven; I like how you think.
Not so Bill, Old Rusty is been worked on at regular times... Its welding and metal bending ... always the same work... like the side step... I did not make video's on it as it would be boring to see all the same work over agian ( left side). As soon as I at a new area of Old Rusty the video will be out
When I first started I did not wear a mask. After blowing my nose and seeing the powder coating color come out of my nose, I came to the conclusion that you are breathing that crap in even if you can’t see it. I always wear a respirator now. My advice to you is fo the same. I know someone who had a powder coat business that developed COPD due to never wearing a respirator. My warning to you and anyone reading this.
People like this are brilliant. They really know what they're doing, but more importantly, they want to teach others. True legend 👍
Wow, I just dodged a bullet today! Thank you for your immensely informative video explaining your technique and equipment. I put in an offer to buy a Corona-type system with a plastic gun on eBay yesterday. this morning my offer was rejected. After watching your video I now knew what I ACTUALLY needed. Today I hunted for a Tribo-type system and found an aluminum MSW-PCS-50 gun that was a whopping GBP £40.00 cheaper than the one on eBay, and included shipping.
Powder coating is not something I'll be doing every day, so I wanted minimal investment. I would not have achieved this without watching your video. I am delighted. Thank you!
Good to hear that it helped
I've been powdercoating small (mostly motorcycle) parts for years! I've got a small Toaster oven for small parts, and an old kitchen oven in my garage for somewhat larger parts. I've LOVED the results! Fast and easy. I've got a relatively cheap corona type system. The advantage to it is that I don't need my compressor as it has a small built-in fan to propel the powder. For a "booth", I usually just use a cardboard box laid on it's side, which I blow out with air afterwards, then store all my equipment inside it until next time.
Thanks for the comments, that works as well
Excellent presentation and concise easy to understand . You have an accent when speaking but the English coming out of you is clear and comprehensible . Great topic .
Thanks for the comments
You sir are amazing.Not just great ideas, but how to tutorials are fantastic.
Glad you think so!
Amazing. One of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Many thanks
Thanks for the comments
This Tutorial is unbelievable!! Absolutely amazing.
Thanks for the comments
Thank you for this well done video. It just showed up this morning in the recommended. I have wanted to start doing powder coating. You really showed how easy it is to get started. Thank you.
Thanks for the comments
Another great technical video. You have a calming voice to listen to.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for posting this. It has helped me out showing me that it really isn't that hard to do. I see it all comes down to prep work and a heating booth. With practice my work will look professional. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comments
fantastic beginners' guide. You've inspired me to give it a go!
Glad to hear it!
Instead of clipping the earth to the part, could you connect it to the rail the part is hanging from and make the connection through the metal wire the part is hanging on ? Could do multiple parts at once then. Great video. Just wish I had space in my garage for an oven. It’s full of old cars !
Indeed , those are all options
Always very well organized great job thank you for this well done video.
Thanks for watching!
Always very well explained, and good filming. A real Professial
Thanks for the comments
Very good video. You explained the process and what is needed for professional results. Thank you
You are welcome!
If you had been my Teacher in Highschool, I would have learned much more :) Great job, Thank you
Thanks for the comments
Loving your channel every each video perfectly explained, thank you for sharing your great work! Subscribed!
I am actually a manager of a powder coating company in Aus. 93% of the powder we use is non toxic and the other powders we get from China & Norway are a little toxic (about 5% risk) but we wear masks at all times plus use a filtration system that when the powder is being sprayed all the loose powder is pulled towards the filters making even safer for our coater. Our ovens are 9mx3mx3m with 6 burners. Our dip tanks are also 9m long by 1800 deep, for all our aluminium after it's been coated and baked off, I use an elcometer to randomly check the micron count, which the perfect count is 80. I can safely say the way you are using that oven is not a problem at all and looks to be very handy for what you are coating. I'd be interested in how you prep your aluminium bud.. Keep up the good work, and if you have anything you are unsure about, let me know and I'll see if I can help you.
Thanks for the comments and great write up and help support.
Nice walkthrough. Got me a industrial owen a few years ago and bought a PID to run it but have not had the time to start powdercoating. This video make me want to revive my project!
Thanks for the comments
Here we go again Steve, on parallel lines ! I chose the Tribo system as the best for my application, I also use an old (much older than your one), industrial oven, this system is an excellent choice of home coating, and is really durable, I coat lead bullets with it, and it holds up even at high velocities, but I do stay with the gloss finish, I find that here(South of France) ,the sun can make the matt finish turn very powdery, like the side steps on my Defender, so I do not use the matt/semi matt, one thing I have read about the heating is that it should never be conducted in an oven used for food as the fumes can be toxic, having inhaled the clouds of fumes which come out of the oven I can understand that. Stay safe ! Chris B.
hahaha, that is so funny Chris.. have you done aluminium ?
@@D3Sshooter Not yet Steve, only steel, lead and cast iron, but I am about to dry powder my Vincent aluminium castings, I have etch primed them, so there should not be a bonding problem, I did expect some bonding problems with lead bullets, but I have crushed them flat without any flaking. Happy Christmas to you, Chris B.
Great video! One think worth noting, its preferable to use a brush to sweep up excess powder off your floor as a vacuum cleaner could ignite the fine powder (It's unlikely but, treat this fine dust in the same way that you'd treat fine petrol fumes in regard to flames/sparks if you plan to be welding or angle grinding nearby) better to be safe than sorry
Thanks for the comments and tip
Very nice tutorial.Well done.
Thanks for the comments
Jealous of that oven! One quick tip is to always start the pressure with the gun pointed next to the part, not straight at it. Starting the spray with the gun aimed at the part can either blow a clump of paint onto the part or release a puff of air which blows paint off of it. Hadn't seen that type of gun before. Great video!
Thanks for the comments
Really enjoyed your video which demystifies powder coating!!!! Thank you 😊
Thanks for the comments
Thanks, realy like your powder coating demonstration.
Thanks for the comments
Great idea on the oven, here in OZ prices range between 5000 euros for something like yours. I'm going to a commercial over repair shop to try my luck!!. Many thanks.
Thanks for the comments
Hi Steve, very interesting video, great job. You have a lot of good ideas.
Glad you enjoyed it
It helps me a lot ! Thank You for great video !
Excellent as always.
Hoi,was echt goed uit gelegd .
Ga dat eens in de toekomst ook eens proberen.
Bedankt, heel makkelijk
Thank u. Very well explained something I wanted to know
Thanks for the comments
Nice video. I like how you set things up with basics first and also give realistic cost info. And very well organized. A question and a comment: Q: would the powder not clog up the filters in a paint booth fairly fast? C: I have had mixed outcome with even high quality (commercially) powder-coated parts. What I've experienced is that the coating is nice while intact but if it gets damaged somehow, like a scratch going through, water will seep in and start to rust the part underneath the coating and you can't see that, until the coating falls off in big flakes, and then it's a bad surprise.
Thanks for the comments, I keep the powder near the house boiler, nice and warm and most of all dry. Never had an issue with it.
Of course , If its in the open air for a longer time it might clog.
There are special base coats to avoid the issue you listed, followed by a color coat and finally a clear coat . Most issues are because the surface was not clean or grease when it was coated and then yu can get those issues indeed.
Great vid quality, great vid content. Great job
Thanks for the comments
Great job, Steve 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video! Succinct and informative. I'm in western Canada. The cheapest industrial oven I found that would accommodate my needs, (about 6 cubic feet), was a used one at $600 cdn. , way too much for me. Looks like I'll have to build my own.
Yes , that is expensive, here they are cheap ( the older versions) especially the 3 phase models.
Building your own works....
Very nice job thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Superb tutorial and as very well explained
Thank you
Great video buddy looking at setting up my own little set up
Thanks this is an excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
brilliant vid as usual Steve many thanks
Thank you
I`ve got the same gun. It`s very good. I also have expensive corona gun, but I don`t use it anymore when I got this tribo gun. Reason is that this doesn`t have faraday effect so you get the powder to deep pockets etc. which were pain with the corona. And this gun was four times cheaper.
Indeed, and thanks for the comments
You can also try it on the doors hinges of your defender which rust very quickly
Tell me about it...
You could re-dry welding rods in the oven as well ;)
Indeed,
greetings. when is the eargerly awaited video on serving the hydraulic system coming. thank you in advance
I know, I need to spend some time on that
Hi Steve I did the same thing with an over but used ceramacoat for some motorcycles parts the finish is very hard and will not chip.cheers
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks a lot for the video, please don't forget your safety!!!!!
my pleasure
Mine tinkit a very good presentation i always thought of powdercoating as a black art tjank you for enlightening meand i will look foward to your next video regards from australia 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks for the comments
I used to specialise in coating motorcycle parts, and although you are not wrong per see, it's not quite as simple as you describe.
Parts are better if sandblasted (not bead) as this provides a better key, it is also uniform, the polyester powder is best, Epoxy is cheaper but not UV stable, the Faraday cage is a real PITA, but preheating gets around this, for a makeshift oven, you can build a simple wooden cupboard and line it with household dry wall sheets then cover with aluminium foil, a fan is useful too, a 5w PC fan is enough, as this prevents hot spots within the oven, I used a simple setup like this when we first started back in the early 90s, we used 4 x 2kw electric hob elements, in a steel box, 180c for 20 minutes at full blast, no need to use a thermal switch, keep air pressure as low as it needs to be but enough to propel the powder.
Thanks for the comments and great value tips
Thank you. That was very informative. Why not ground the part by the metal rod from which the part is suspended?
you could,
Well worth the effort 👍
Yes it was
first time i did power coating my coating was way to thick. i measured the coating thickness with a PosiTector. it was around 4-6 times thicker than recommended.
you dont need a ton on it just need to cover it. its harder to sand blast off than paint if it looks bad.
Thanks for the comments
I can see application for this but I have had problems with coated parts. On my former truck (Ford) the chassis and a lot of the running gear was coated with this, in an atmosphere of rain, snow, and flying grit, little holes develop in the coating that allow water penetration and rust to develop , the rust process continues under the surface that doesn't show on the surface until 'surprise' it does, the vehicle body, painted the usual way had no rust. To give an example, the differential cover rusted thru until it leaked, the replacement part, made by Ford in Mexico (no EPA rules against painting) never had this problem. By the way, the engine oil pan was coated this way with the same results, that's why it's not my truck anymore.
Thanks for the comments, indeed there are applications where this works well like on my race car, and where I would not apply it, like on the chassis of car or devices that are often in harsh environements
Interessante video, hier heb ik iets van opgestoken en het resulaat mag gezien zijn. Vroeger maakte ik wel n's gebruik van een afgedankte keukenoven om bepaalde coatings af te bakken. Dat ging prima, en de oven was helemaal gratis !
Inderdaad, dat werk vrij goed een oude oven, alleen is die soms wat te klein.
Very good idea but where can you get the ovens
Thanks for the comments, secondhand market, secondhand webstores
Wow came out really nice 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I enjoyed your video. You did a good job explaining. Where do I order the gun that you used
Thanks for the comments, several stores carry it... I used coating4all.com
Good idea where can you get the ovens
secondhand portals
Very good thank you very much
Thank you too
Amazing video. One reason why I'm a little bit sceptical about powder coating is because I've seen the paint sort of peeling off once it gets some minor damage and dirt would get underneath which would then lead to rust. I don't know if the quality has just been poor or is that something normal to powder coating... (Have never tried it myself, but now I might)
That happens, but mainly because the part was entirely clean or degreased.
That is not strictly true
The part does need to be clean all as described however cleaning alone does not stop rust creeping under the coating, this creeping occurs when the coating is damaged down to the base metal that area rusts then spreads
The only way to stop this is an additional process, called as pre treatment, that is like a super primary coat usually of a chemical nature, hope it helps
@@garyjones385 The cleaner the part the better the adhesion, and indeed for some materials a base coat or primer is needed followed by several other coats , maybe ending with a clear coat. And yes you are right , if it is chipped then there is a big change that it will rust and push off the coating.
Right. But is chipping more likely to happen with powder coating than with conventional paint, assuming quality is top notch on both cases? That's probably true also that many of the powder coated every day items (mostly all from China anyway) are probably produced as cheaply as possible, most likely with a single coat of powder and without any primer.
This is a very educational video, thank you. You use compressed air, how do you generate that? What kind of equipment does one need for that?
Yes, exactly. You only need a very small ait compressor as the gun is nearly under pressure 10-20 PSI
Subscribed! Great video!
Thanks for the sub
Very nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Very interesting and also informative 👍
Please do the same thing how to restore and paint an old car 🚗
Thank you sir 🙏
Thanks for the comments
You mentioned doing the wheels. Can I use a filler for scratches or imperfection on the rims before powder coating the rim. Thanks.
yes you can
Good use of the face mask!
I think so too!
Great video again. Thank you for all informative videos. I would like to ask if a frame can be powdercoated. In my situation, the frame of a 1984 Toyota BJ46. What are cons and pros of such kind of application. What would you do to your cars frame, if you were me? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the comments, well what I have shown here are some very basic powder coating methods for small parts. For a frame I would go for multi coats of paint. As a frame always flexes a bit. Powder coating is great but it takes a lot of effort to do it on a frame . Not sure how I would be able to bake a complete frame.
Thank you for tips. Mean alot to me. I will take definitely a professional help. But as far as I understand, powder coating is more durable than paint for a frame. Maybe I am wrong. Are there different type of powders more suitable for frames or are all of the powders the same? And a final question, if you were me and if you had chance for both powder coating and painting , what would you prefer?
Cloth free lint at 13:00 haha! You mean Lint free cloth. Thanks for all the great video's!
Indeed, That is backwards. I do know why, as I am dyslexic and the funny part is that I don't even realise it when creating and editing the video. Its only when someone mentions it that i realise that its backwards. lol
I like the way you talk and sometimes wonder if it makes more sense the way you say things
Nice video, any links to purchase the powder and gun you are using? Thanks.
coating4all.com
Thankyou!! Really useful 🤝
Thanks for the comments
Thank you for this high quality tutorial,clear and complete. Are you making a formula 1 ?
Yes I am! but a Konick class not F1
I'm curious to know whether the powders used are *thermoplastics* or *thermosets* (like bakelite). It seems from your description that they are all thermoplastics, in which case they could easily melt under racing conditions on brake parts, even potentially the caliper.
Thanks for the comments, well time will tell...soon the shake down
Thanks for info 💪
Thanks for the comments
Cool stuff.
“Cloth free lint” seems the appropriate name for the shit my boss makes me use for degreasing. 😂 But seriously tho, this guy is a treasure. Basically putting money in our pockets.
I prefer epoxy primer with fibre glass fibres. It protects raw steel/iron extremely well. Not as good as powder does, but it is not far off and doesn't require compressor, dry air or special guns.
Awsome video
Thanks for the comments
Uber clean 🤩
If you want to powder coat a piece that has been previously painted, does it have to be stripped down to bare metal or just sanded to remove the glossy finish?
You can coat over another coat , but you will need to make it very clean.
Will you ever use japanning on car parts or is it only for tools, etc? I know japanning is much more complicated, and messy! Which one will give the better finish?
Eventually, but I am more then happy with Powder coating
Could you suggest to me a method on how we retrieve data from this kind of oven to give customer a temperature-time graph (some call it a temperature uniformity graph from Oven).
Well, I would say insert a probe with a data logger
hello, good work.
Here do you buy the powder?
Best regards to you all
Paint4all in the Nederlands
Can we use powder coating for direct flame contacting parts ? Around 600deg celcius is it durable ?
There are special powders , but the one I used here is not for this purpose
Can it stand the temperature, when You use it for brake parts?
Yes , this type can. That is why one needs to check what the purpose is and then get the right powder
Could you post a link where did u buy this gun?
sure coating4all.com
Would really like to know where he got a industrial oven for $150 or whatever
I got it on a second hand website ... the oven was faulty
What happens if you touch the part before its cured?. Does powder get on your fingers?
yes it does , just blow it all of and spray again ...no big deal
Waar koopt u uw benodigdheden? Bedankt voor de video!
Dat hangt er wat vanaf, maar meestal in Nederland . Coat4all ( voor de poeders)
@@D3Sshooter Heel erg bedankt!
Lancia Y10/fiat panda brake caliper brackets?
yep
@@D3Sshooter thankyou for the reply. I have both : )
Original Fiat panda 4x4 is the greatest car ever made.
13:00 Searched everywhere, but couldn't find "cloth free lint"
😜
is it worth it to buy all those things or just go to the shop and leave the shop do the painting. I mean i asked from the shop and painting is going to cost 200 and those thing cost the same amount :D
That depends if you want to have the parts when you need them and if you do it often.... The pro jobs will be better quality but more expensive... So its all about what you expect
Where can you find an industrial oven for €100-150? The prices I’m seeing are thousands….
You need to look around, it took me 2 months
Hey, thanks for a great tutorial. One question though - should it always be a bare metal to do a powder coating? Can I apply second, third... layer on powder coated or any other type painted parts already? Thank you so much, sensei!
Hi, well you need a good surface to work on.. I always use bare metal. But you can apply powder coat on powder coat. In fact for some materials you first wil need a primer powder coat , followed by the desired colour coat and some even apply a clear powder coat to finish it all..
So lots of option and products , always check the specification of the powder.
The more layer the greater the voltage needed.
I think you've lost the love for poor ole Rusty! Should Old Acquaintance be forgot, and never thought upon; The flames of Love extinguished, and full past and gone: Is thy sweet Heart now grown so cold, that loving Breast of thine; That thou canst never once reflect On Auld Lang Syne. As the old year ends and the new one begins, I fear that Ole Rusty will be forgot. Great video again by the way. I like the idea of the oven; I like how you think.
Not so Bill, Old Rusty is been worked on at regular times... Its welding and metal bending ... always the same work... like the side step... I did not make video's on it as it would be boring to see all the same work over agian ( left side). As soon as I at a new area of Old Rusty the video will be out
nice !
Thank you! Cheers!
When I first started I did not wear a mask. After blowing my nose and seeing the powder coating color come out of my nose, I came to the conclusion that you are breathing that crap in even if you can’t see it. I always wear a respirator now. My advice to you is fo the same. I know someone who had a powder coat business that developed COPD due to never wearing a respirator. My warning to you and anyone reading this.
Thanks for the comments
peanuts - second-hand oven same model as shown on ebay £1500
wow, that is carzy... mine did not work when I got it
Great instructional video. Thank you, it's a thumbs-up and a sub from me.
Thanks for the comments
Je Engels is echt goed, alleen je uitspraak van het woord 'oven' is niet helemaal correct.
Top video.
Thanks for the comments
Bent u Nederlands ik ben 18 en ben met een kreidler bezich te restaureren lijkt mij leuk om bij u eens te kijken. mvg Thomas
Thanks for the comments, Vlaams in de streek van Oudenaarde
@@D3Sshooter oke ik in doesburg best wel een stuk uitelkaar mischien leuk om ooit eens langs te komen als u daar voor open staat
PowDer coating lol 😂
Thanks for the comments