Machining and Installing Height Adjustment Screws for a J. A. Vance Planer/Matcher
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2013
- This video details how I machined and installed a pair of height adjustment screws for an antique Planer/Matcher I am restoring for the Georgia Museum of Agriculture. Steps involve left hand threading, cutting slots for woodruff keys, and drilling and reaming holes for tapered pins.
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Joel Hunger
2014-11-27
I worked as a mechanic for 30 years in a fleet operation. They had a navy surplus lathe and I spent a lot of time playing on it. When I had spare time I would go and play on it. I took some classes in Jr. collage so I knew the basics. You brought back fond memories. Thanks
Manual lathe machine do anything we want,today lot of shortage for manual machinist,i enjoying cutting multi start threads. Mr.KEITH who are you.you doing lot of things.I enjoy very much watching your uploads.I need to see all your uploads and want to speak lot with you.GREAT MAN
Very nice video. I especially liked your explanation of why the threads were 8 pitch and not 10. It makes perfect sense when you think of it that way. Thank you and have a wonderful holiday- Fred
Just recently happened to discover your videos. Love them already. Learned new stuff. Love your detailed explanations, sharp showing details, great Video resolution and overall familiar atmosphere. Thank you so much.
+Mirko Mueller Thanks - and welcome aboard!
21.50 : "Before we get to deep into this" Haha I did that a few times in high school when I was learning this and its disturbingly exciting to see it unfold while running for your life.
Great video. I just made 2 elevation screws for my 12" parks planner. That was the first time I had ever cut a LH thread. Cutting threads is one of my favourite operations on the lathe. Everyone at work thought I should just cut them on the cnc lathe, but I enjoy doing it manually.
love your videos Keith! Keep them coming!
Your videos are full of good info. Thanks.
brilliant, one of the best. really good to see the lathe mechanism and settings up close.
+Guy Barry Thanks!
Great work!
Yes, it's time to repair that clutch. I'm glad you did fix it later.
Really like this channel, subbed!
Thanks
cool project. hope to see more :)
Keith,
I enjoyed the video. Thanks!
A faster way to find the top dead center of the shaft, is to use the edge finder on on side, zero the dro and then go to the other side and read the number on the DRO, divide that number by 2. crank the y azis back to that number. That is center.
Great video! I learned alot
Mi mas sincera felicitación desde España .-
The tapered reamers that I used are hand reamers and not chucking reamers. Generally speaking, I do not like to use hand reamers under power.
Como me gustaría a mi saber todo lo que sabe Keith .
El trabajo de las piezas de metal , su construcción y reparación es mi pasión . Yo por vocación hubiera sido Tornero Fresador Ajustador . Pero con los tornos manuales . Mi felicitación a Keith Rucker por todo .
Enjoyed ,made me think !
Yes, I would consider this to be true - you only want to run the reamer where it is cutting. My question is why you ask this - did you see me run a reamer backwards? I don't recall doing that... I did notice in one of my videos that the reamer appeared to be running backwards when I was using the time lapse function to speed things up but this had to do with the frame rate of the video giving the illusion that the part was running backwards. Sorry for any confusion if that is the case...
Nice job!
Zieketuute Thanks!
I dont know where I am but this videos pretty great.
i was told to NEVER turn a reamer backwards. is this true?
Another great job Keith, just trying to get caught up on all my video watching, just out of curiosity, are the gears on machinery of that era made with common pressure angles and pitches still used such as 14.5 & 22 degrees or were they something different?
Have a very Merry Christmas!
Mike
8 TPI is also often used as the pitch for lathe lead screws on imperial machines.
What do you do or what do you look for when you release tension on the handle to reset the thread cutter exactly in the spiral origin?? How do you compensate for slop in the handle?
Is there a reason you did not ream that under power of the mill ?
I was just wondering if this is dumb question or not. Couldn't you have put bearings under the handle and on the other side. Wouldn't that give you a nice trun for the handle. I don't know if there is a point to your not. Thanks for you time.
Another great job! I'm kind of surprised that there are no bushings in the headpiece casting where the screw shafts pass through. Any idea why?
***** Would the slot for oil also oil the chain?
Keith, Thanks for another good video. I was wondering if is there is any particular reason why you used tapered pins rather than roll pins or straight ones.
Thanks again, Bob Auer
***** Thanks for your answer.
***** I think taper pins are easy removable.
I suppose that screw doesn’t have to be perfect for an old machine, because there was a lot of concentric error in the lathe. At first I thought the rod was bent slightly, but then I saw that the chuck isn’t concentric-by a lot!. The entire rod was wobbling. I still think a follower rest would have been a good idea for this.
Those screw threads and the chain & sprockets could have done with some greason them - the collars too !
Being a newbie to machining I have a question-- do you resharpen center drills when they get dull or just replace? Thanks!
Garret
***** That makes sense! Thanks for the quick reply!
@57:24 I see that at the bottom of its travel the lift screws are several turns short of full penetration in the cross casting. Is this as originally designed by the maker? Surely by any measure this is very bad practice in that the system is hanging by a few threads. Given this why did you make the screws (apparently) too short and then show this to your viewers? I would appreciate your response.
Why did you have so much of the workpiece sticking out from the chuck. Surely this would increase the problem of flexing away from the tool.
I feel kind of dumb because I just finished a project where I had a problem holding round stock in a vice. should have held down in a table slot. good tip
+ted sykora There you go - you learned one thing from me! Glad to pass along a neat trick!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org I actually clamped a round project down in the table slot 3 hours ago. Now that I have used that tip once I will always remember
Why did you use maths to find the centre of the shaft, when you have a 1/2 function on your DRO?
I need five 3/4 inch left hand fine threaded rods... ;-)
54:00 Well I'd have left the pin like that. Easier to see what's going on when it comes to being removed.
I see you have a Lodge & Shipley lathe
+Steve Pereira Yes, that is the lathe at the museum that I use all the time. A great machine!
+Steve Pereira I had a 1906l model
why is it machinists use a oil brush and not a oil can to squirt the oil on? Probably a silly question but i know nothing about machining just something i noticed
+oldblue3406 Some machinist do use an oil can. But the brush is typically better at getting the oil right where you want it and you don't waste as much oil either.
19:41 Is it me or is the thread in that nut drunk ! ?