Amazing job! I’ve now watched your video 3 times. The more I watch, the more I want to try making my own cabinet doors. Our cabinets are original to the house (1972) Boxes are in good shape so really don’t want to replace them. Cabinet doors are very dated. Replacing the doors would be a great update. I would not miss dusting and cleaning all the nooks and crannies on the current doors. Thanks for great video. Very inspirational! ❤
@@stephaniewierzbicki1621 I unscrewed the old drawer fronts, made new ones and screwed them back on. To measure I measured the height of the drawer front area I was replacing and subtracted 1/8 inch from the top and bottom. This was my drawer height. If you’re measuring for a whole cabinet of vertical drawers you can measure the whole height and subtract 1/8 inch for top, bottom and each in between drawers. Then I measured the width of the drawer hole and added 1 1/4 inch to each side (full overlay) for the width of each drawer front. I hope that makes sense. Thank you for watching. Have fun! Jill
Wow! Amazing. This is exactly what I was looking for as I also have old school honey oak cabinetry and was looking for this full overlay minimalist modern look. Love the result!
I love it! Especially in comparison to the omnipresent trend of painting wooden cabinets, which in most cases is a crime. Also, these could be stained with any colour, for those who want the trendy white/ black/green cabinets.
Oh my!! these are absolutely beautiful, I have been eyeing some exotic wood veneer from a manufacturing company I found on Alibaba while purchasing my windows.. the only difference is the 3m sticky back has not been applied to these sheets, Have you worked with the 3m sticky back sheets and used veneer. Basically it’s the same concept you are just cutting out the middle person who buys the veneer adds the 3m and resells to the public.. I have been playing all this in the back of my mind and then I came across your cabinet makeover. 💡 came back on.. fantastic job. Something you might want to look at even though cutting with a knife worked really well for you. A hand held chamfer plane which is just for wood edges, it’s an awesome little tool for small details.
Thank you. I have only ever used preglued veneer. I did not know you can buy 3M sticky backed sheets and glue it yourself. Good to know! Thank you also for the advice about the chamfer plane to trim the edges. Another commenter had mentioned using a router to trim the edges. Which I tried the other day on another project and did not have any luck with. But it could have been operator error. Thanks for watching, Jill
I'm in the middle of new kitchen slab doors and drawer fronts, with Formica on all faces. Iron-on veneer would have been so much easier than sticking on the Formica with contact cement., but that's what the wife wanted. This video covers the basics but there is SO MUCH MORE involved in a successful door replacement project, so no one should see this as other than an overall guide to the process.
Thanks Nick! I have a cost breakdown in the post at our blog timeonourhands.com. It cost me about $550 for the materials for my 16 doors and 5 drawers. But half of that was for new concealed soft close cabinet door hinges.
Those iron on edges are nice. I ended up ripping some 1/8inch pine strips(3/4) and glued them. They sanded out and finished really nice. They also stained slightly different tones and are visible from the fronts. Just another option.
Hi! My doors are about a year old now and I haven’t had any problems with warping. I live in Maine where we have large fluctuations in temperature and humidity, hot humid summer and dry cold winters. I used 3/4 inch Purebond plywood and sealed it with 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic. Thank you! Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions. I hope this helps, Jill
great video! How did you attach the drawer fronts? I can't figure out how to make new drawer fronts on my IKEA kitchen. Thanks for taking the time to explain and make the video :)
Thank you! To make cabinet drawers use the same instructions for measurements, cutting, and finishing as the cabinet doors. Remove the old drawer front and screw the new one on from the back. Hope this helps. I also have a blog post with more details and links to supplies for this project if you’re interested: timeonourhands.com/how-to-make-modern-kitchen-cabinet-doors-diy-kitchen-cabinet-refacing/#i-have-drawers-in-my-kitchen-how-do-i-make-drawer-fronts-like-these-cabinet-doors Thank you again for watching and commenting, Jill
I like doing butchery on the benches. And washing carports in the bath.turn off the electric supply. Use candles for lights and cook in the wood heater. Paint the floor to clean it and have lots pets. Can't afford to fill cupboards any how.knock on the trailer door, the babies not hungry no more. Going to rock you like a hurricane. Till you're down on your knees. Perfect tennants deserve perfect houses.
Thank you for this video clip! If you wanted euro cabinets with matching woodgrain flow (either horizontal or vertical) how would you go about it using the same slab cabinets you cut? Thinking of using of veneering the slab panels as you did the frame. Wood would be great but to get the a great grain flow seems difficult...
Hi! Thank you! I wasn’t familiar with euro cabinets with matching wood grain flow. So I looked it up. It seams like those cabinets/doors have grain cut from one piece of wood. If this is correct, it would be challenging to get a full kitchen with cabinets that all of the grain matches exactly because you would have to use multiple pieces of plywood/veneer. But I think you could get a similar look if you plan carefully. If I were to do this using the techniques I used for my cabinets, I would lay out the plywood and/or veneer and very carefully plan the cuts and pieces I would need from one piece at a time. Working around the entire kitchen, one section at a time. I hope this helps, thanks, Jill
This is so helpful! I especially needed to learn about those saw guides because I don't have a table saw. Question: Any reason you can think of why I couldn't use 1/2" plywood instead of the 3/4" that you use? Working on a total shoestring budget here!
Thank you. I can’t think of a reason that you could not use the 1/2 inch plywood. But, you might have to make adjustments for your cabinet pulls/knobs and/or hinges. For instance, if you were going to use the concealed hinges like I did, I’m not sure if the Kreg concealed hinge jig can be adjusted for that depth (I looked at mine, but didn’t see anything about adjusting for different depths). Thanks again, Jill
Thank you. I used Purebond plywood www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-PureBond-Red-Oak-Plywood-165956/100046409?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-ARM-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-RKT-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-ALL_IN_TEST_FUNCDIY&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-ARM-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-RKT-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-ALL_IN_TEST_FUNCDIY-71700000110012098-58700008378060310-92700076247444887&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA98WrBhAYEiwA2WvhOhGQaorYO1GYvyuHSvyApzOWsJ1PJ1kI5ndgUe8wOgZdu6iY05HgaxoCb54QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsI I get it at Home Depot. I’ve used it to make quite a few simple pieces of furniture and it works well and holds up well. I also have more details about this project and links to all the supplies at the blog timeonourhands.com/how-to-make-modern-kitchen-cabinet-doors-diy-kitchen-cabinet-refacing/ thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it, Jill
This is beautiful! Does each cabinet "box" have its own 1.5" face frame? If so, did you cut the doors bigger there, or is that what they look like with a 1/2" reveal (bc 1/4" on each side)? Thanks!
Thank you! Yes, you are right, each cabinets box has its own 1.5 inch face frame. Correct, I cut the doors with a 1/2 inch reveal. I hope this helps. Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching, Jill
Looks amazing ! Did you experience any problem of bending wood through time ? I have heard that simple wood door like that without frame around it can bend over time
Thank you! That’s a good question. I’ve had the doors on the cabinets for about six months and they look just like the day I put them on, no bending or warping. I live in Maine where we definitely have wide temperature and moisture variations (cold/dry winters and hot/humid summers). I used Purebond plywood which seems to be a high quality plywood. And I also sealed them with Polycrylic. Hope this helps. Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Jill
They are holding up great! I have this same door that I made for my bathroom vanity a couple of years ago and they are good too. I use them every day and I am happy with them. Hope this answers your question. Thanks, Jill
Hi, I used 1-1/4-in Overlay 110-Degree Opening Nickel Plated Self-closing Soft Close Concealed Cabinet hinges. Here is a link to the exact hinges I used: www.lowes.com/pd/Richelieu-1-1-4-in-Nickel-Plated-Self-Closing-Soft-Close-Concealed-Cabinet-Hinge/999930582 Thanks!
Ok i stopped the video at 3:45 because the lady was talking about the measurements amd how she's going to add 1¼ all the way around. The full overlay covers the whole face, you measure the full width. Half overlay covers half of the face frame, so you take the full width, not the door opening, and you subtract half of the dimension face frame. If you want to do it like this lady demonstrates, take the full width again and subtract ⅓ from each side.
Thank you for commenting. I was going for a natural warm look for my cabinets. But grey would be a great color if you wanted a painted look. I would use birch plywood to make the doors, since it has less grain, and paint them any color you like. Thanks, Jill
Thanks Brie. You can get hardwood plywood in many different species of wood. The red oak I used has a lot of grain to it which may look more plywoody than others. Could always paint them too. Definitely a more modern look.
@@timeonourhandsblog I am looking to install new doors so I AM inspired by what you did and I guess you're right. I COULD use different wood. I do love your hardware too, btw.
I have been in the furniture business for about 30 years. About 30 years ago, most budget cabinet fronts were made of plywood. Unfortunately, after decades of introducing "green" regulations, now making doors/cabinet fronts is madness. In three years, you'll all be a twisted and warped. Current adhesives used to make plywood are environmentally friendly but make the plywood very unstable. Sorry, but that is harsh truth.
Thank you for sharing your expertise with me. I have taken precautions to prevent warping: sealing the plywood, and using high quality hardwood plywood that states it is suitable for kitchen and bathroom cabinetry. So let’s hope that is true.
@@lindahendricks4507 I don’t know about using reinforcement on the inside to prevent warping because I have never tried it. I use Purebond 3/4 inch plywood and seal it with Minwax Polycrylic and I have not had any warping problems. I have two cabinets in my bathroom that I made over a year ago and have not had any warping. And I actually, also have a large cabinet in my kitchen that I built over 2 years ago and have not had any warping with that one either.
@@lindahendricks4507 The problem is that the front from plywood now is usually warped. That mean is bent/crooked in two planes. Strengthening fronts warped in this way is practically impossible.
Finally!!!! This is exactly what I was looking for!!!❤🎉 I hate fussy cabinets, yet it seems to be the de rigureur in EVERY kitchen.
Awesome! I’m glad you liked it! I’m very happy with the cabinets.
Great job! Thank you for the video!
Thank you! And thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
Amazing job! I’ve now watched your video 3 times. The more I watch, the more I want to try making my own cabinet doors. Our cabinets are original to the house (1972) Boxes are in good shape so really don’t want to replace them. Cabinet doors are very dated. Replacing the doors would be a great update. I would not miss dusting and cleaning all the nooks and crannies on the current doors. Thanks for great video. Very inspirational! ❤
After watching this 3 or 4 times, I've decided I can do this. I was wondering about the drawers and how you measured for the new fronts.
@@stephaniewierzbicki1621 I unscrewed the old drawer fronts, made new ones and screwed them back on. To measure I measured the height of the drawer front area I was replacing and subtracted 1/8 inch from the top and bottom. This was my drawer height. If you’re measuring for a whole cabinet of vertical drawers you can measure the whole height and subtract 1/8 inch for top, bottom and each in between drawers. Then I measured the width of the drawer hole and added 1 1/4 inch to each side (full overlay) for the width of each drawer front. I hope that makes sense. Thank you for watching. Have fun! Jill
Thank you @@timeonourhandsblog
WOW!!! I'm so impressed girl!! Those are beautiful!! Nice job!
Thanks 😊!
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you!
Love it! And it would be so easy dusting and cleaning! You have inspired me!
Wow! Amazing. This is exactly what I was looking for as I also have old school honey oak cabinetry and was looking for this full overlay minimalist modern look. Love the result!
Thank you! I’m glad you found this helpful. It’s been a few months since I completed the project and I’m happy I made this change.
These are absolutely gorgeous and the tutorial was exactly what I was hoping to find, thank you!
Thank you! I’m happy you found it helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I love it! Especially in comparison to the omnipresent trend of painting wooden cabinets, which in most cases is a crime. Also, these could be stained with any colour, for those who want the trendy white/ black/green cabinets.
Yes, exactly! 😀 Again, thank you I really appreciate your kind encouragement.
@@timeonourhandsblog Keep up the good work 🙂
Well done! Exactly the doors I like. Simple and wood grain in so appealing.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! I may be able to pull off a kitchen refresh with this help.
Thank you Jennifer! I’m happy that you found it helpful. Let me know if you have any questions.
Oh my!! these are absolutely beautiful, I have been eyeing some exotic wood veneer from a manufacturing company I found on Alibaba while purchasing my windows.. the only difference is the 3m sticky back has not been applied to these sheets, Have you worked with the 3m sticky back sheets and used veneer. Basically it’s the same concept you are just cutting out the middle person who buys the veneer adds the 3m and resells to the public.. I have been playing all this in the back of my mind and then I came across your cabinet makeover. 💡 came back on.. fantastic job. Something you might want to look at even though cutting with a knife worked really well for you. A hand held chamfer plane which is just for wood edges, it’s an awesome little tool for small details.
Thank you. I have only ever used preglued veneer. I did not know you can buy 3M sticky backed sheets and glue it yourself. Good to know! Thank you also for the advice about the chamfer plane to trim the edges. Another commenter had mentioned using a router to trim the edges. Which I tried the other day on another project and did not have any luck with. But it could have been operator error. Thanks for watching, Jill
I'm in the middle of new kitchen slab doors and drawer fronts, with Formica on all faces. Iron-on veneer would have been so much easier than sticking on the Formica with contact cement., but that's what the wife wanted.
This video covers the basics but there is SO MUCH MORE involved in a successful door replacement project, so no one should see this as other than an overall guide to the process.
Great job. I like the finished look, and I bet you saved a fortune compared to buying all new units.
Thanks Nick! I have a cost breakdown in the post at our blog timeonourhands.com. It cost me about $550 for the materials for my 16 doors and 5 drawers. But half of that was for new concealed soft close cabinet door hinges.
Amazing look! Thanks for the info!
Thank you! I’m happy you found it helpful!
Great video !!! I am going to do this in my kitchen. Thank you for the tips !
Thank you! Great, let me know how it comes out and if you have any questions. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great teacher and instructions x
Thank you!
Had good time watching.
Good for you! Looks fantastic.
Thank you, I appreciate your words of encouragement! I’m really happy I took the time to do this project.
boom. fire. this is legit, and thank you. I'm going to use maple ply
That sounds awesome! Thank you!
Those iron on edges are nice. I ended up ripping some 1/8inch pine strips(3/4) and glued them. They sanded out and finished really nice. They also stained slightly different tones and are visible from the fronts. Just another option.
Great idea! Thank you, Jill
Thank you! I need to replace my doors but my drawers are flat like this.
You can also use clippers to cut off the end of the edge banding instead of banding it
Great job!
Thank you!
Gorgeous! Great job.
Thank you!
🎉 Nice job! 🎉
@@auntbea1664 thank you!
very impressive!!!
Thank you!
Impressive... no workshop,and some job done on the floor with great result 👍🙂
Thanks!
Good job.
Thank you! And thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! I really appreciate it.
Nice. Thank you.
Your welcome!
Brilliant idea. Look beautiful
Thank you!
thanks very nice video
Great job! Impressive results with basic power tools.
Thank you!
Fantastic!
Thanks!
Good job
Thank you!
Good instructions. great job ❤
Thank you!
How are your doors today? I know that solid plywood doors will warp, so I'm curious how yours held up? Great job! Thanks in advance
Hi! My doors are about a year old now and I haven’t had any problems with warping. I live in Maine where we have large fluctuations in temperature and humidity, hot humid summer and dry cold winters. I used 3/4 inch Purebond plywood and sealed it with 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic. Thank you! Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions. I hope this helps, Jill
good job
Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback.
great video! How did you attach the drawer fronts? I can't figure out how to make new drawer fronts on my IKEA kitchen. Thanks for taking the time to explain and make the video :)
Thank you! To make cabinet drawers use the same instructions for measurements, cutting, and finishing as the cabinet doors. Remove the old drawer front and screw the new one on from the back. Hope this helps. I also have a blog post with more details and links to supplies for this project if you’re interested: timeonourhands.com/how-to-make-modern-kitchen-cabinet-doors-diy-kitchen-cabinet-refacing/#i-have-drawers-in-my-kitchen-how-do-i-make-drawer-fronts-like-these-cabinet-doors Thank you again for watching and commenting, Jill
great！
Landlord here! This is going to be my new go to for new rentals! Thanks for the tips!!!
I like doing butchery on the benches. And washing carports in the bath.turn off the electric supply. Use candles for lights and cook in the wood heater. Paint the floor to clean it and have lots pets. Can't afford to fill cupboards any how.knock on the trailer door, the babies not hungry no more. Going to rock you like a hurricane. Till you're down on your knees. Perfect tennants deserve perfect houses.
Did you ever do a video about doing the veneer on cabinet frames?
Hi. Thanks for asking. Yes, here is the link: m.ua-cam.com/video/ixZVrnUSRWM/v-deo.html
I will also add it to the description box for this video.
Thank you for this video clip! If you wanted euro cabinets with matching woodgrain flow (either horizontal or vertical) how would you go about it using the same slab cabinets you cut? Thinking of using of veneering the slab panels as you did the frame. Wood would be great but to get the a great grain flow seems difficult...
Hi! Thank you! I wasn’t familiar with euro cabinets with matching wood grain flow. So I looked it up. It seams like those cabinets/doors have grain cut from one piece of wood. If this is correct, it would be challenging to get a full kitchen with cabinets that all of the grain matches exactly because you would have to use multiple pieces of plywood/veneer. But I think you could get a similar look if you plan carefully. If I were to do this using the techniques I used for my cabinets, I would lay out the plywood and/or veneer and very carefully plan the cuts and pieces I would need from one piece at a time. Working around the entire kitchen, one section at a time. I hope this helps, thanks, Jill
I love it.💕
Thank you.
Looks great! Perhaps I missed it, did you stain or seal the work you did?
Thank you! I just used Minwax Polycrylic, three thin coats.
This is so helpful! I especially needed to learn about those saw guides because I don't have a table saw. Question: Any reason you can think of why I couldn't use 1/2" plywood instead of the 3/4" that you use? Working on a total shoestring budget here!
Thank you. I can’t think of a reason that you could not use the 1/2 inch plywood. But, you might have to make adjustments for your cabinet pulls/knobs and/or hinges. For instance, if you were going to use the concealed hinges like I did, I’m not sure if the Kreg concealed hinge jig can be adjusted for that depth (I looked at mine, but didn’t see anything about adjusting for different depths). Thanks again, Jill
@@timeonourhandsblog Thanks so much. The hinges I plan to use wouldn't be an issue.
Fabulous job sold me. Where did you get the plywood? Is it big box store plywood?
oops just seen it on your list.
Thank you. I used Purebond plywood www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-PureBond-Red-Oak-Plywood-165956/100046409?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-ARM-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-RKT-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-ALL_IN_TEST_FUNCDIY&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-ARM-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-RKT-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-ALL_IN_TEST_FUNCDIY-71700000110012098-58700008378060310-92700076247444887&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA98WrBhAYEiwA2WvhOhGQaorYO1GYvyuHSvyApzOWsJ1PJ1kI5ndgUe8wOgZdu6iY05HgaxoCb54QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsI
I get it at Home Depot. I’ve used it to make quite a few simple pieces of furniture and it works well and holds up well.
I also have more details about this project and links to all the supplies at the blog timeonourhands.com/how-to-make-modern-kitchen-cabinet-doors-diy-kitchen-cabinet-refacing/ thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it, Jill
Slick.
very nice
Thank you!
This is beautiful! Does each cabinet "box" have its own 1.5" face frame? If so, did you cut the doors bigger there, or is that what they look like with a 1/2" reveal (bc 1/4" on each side)? Thanks!
Thank you! Yes, you are right, each cabinets box has its own 1.5 inch face frame. Correct, I cut the doors with a 1/2 inch reveal. I hope this helps. Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching, Jill
Looks amazing ! Did you experience any problem of bending wood through time ? I have heard that simple wood door like that without frame around it can bend over time
Thank you! That’s a good question. I’ve had the doors on the cabinets for about six months and they look just like the day I put them on, no bending or warping. I live in Maine where we definitely have wide temperature and moisture variations (cold/dry winters and hot/humid summers). I used Purebond plywood which seems to be a high quality plywood. And I also sealed them with Polycrylic. Hope this helps. Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Jill
@@timeonourhandsblog Thanks a lot for your answer Jill, it definitely help!
What type of hinges are used??
Do you have an update video?
I’m not sure…Do you mean like a year later video? I don’t, but that’s a good idea! Thanks, Jill
did you treat these to make them waterresistant?
Hi, yes I sealed them with minwax Polycrylic satin finish, 3 coats following instructions on the back of the can. Thank you!
Thanks for the video, looks great! Did you use 18mm plywood so they are studied or 12mm so they are lighter?
Hi Matt, I used 3/4 inch plywood which I believe would be close to 18mm. Thanks, Jill
How are the doors holding up?
They are holding up great! I have this same door that I made for my bathroom vanity a couple of years ago and they are good too. I use them every day and I am happy with them. Hope this answers your question. Thanks, Jill
Can you pls link the cabinet hardware 😍😍
Sure! Black finger edge cabinet pull: amzn.to/3TYbGUH Thank you!
The hinges u used hat are they called cause I couldn't find any, please let me know thank you
Hi, I used 1-1/4-in Overlay 110-Degree Opening Nickel Plated Self-closing Soft Close Concealed Cabinet hinges. Here is a link to the exact hinges I used: www.lowes.com/pd/Richelieu-1-1-4-in-Nickel-Plated-Self-Closing-Soft-Close-Concealed-Cabinet-Hinge/999930582
Thanks!
Ok i stopped the video at 3:45 because the lady was talking about the measurements amd how she's going to add 1¼ all the way around. The full overlay covers the whole face, you measure the full width.
Half overlay covers half of the face frame, so you take the full width, not the door opening, and you subtract half of the dimension face frame. If you want to do it like this lady demonstrates, take the full width again and subtract ⅓ from each side.
i would have made the cabinet color grey. That color looks more modern.
Thank you for commenting. I was going for a natural warm look for my cabinets. But grey would be a great color if you wanted a painted look. I would use birch plywood to make the doors, since it has less grain, and paint them any color you like. Thanks, Jill
@@timeonourhandsblog Thank you. Impressive work, btw.
🎉❤🎉
I'm not a fan of this look; it just looks like plywood. But you did an awesome job of making and installing the,
Thanks Brie. You can get hardwood plywood in many different species of wood. The red oak I used has a lot of grain to it which may look more plywoody than others. Could always paint them too. Definitely a more modern look.
@@timeonourhandsblog I am looking to install new doors so I AM inspired by what you did and I guess you're right. I COULD use different wood. I do love your hardware too, btw.
I have been in the furniture business for about 30 years. About 30 years ago, most budget cabinet fronts were made of plywood. Unfortunately, after decades of introducing "green" regulations, now making doors/cabinet fronts is madness. In three years, you'll all be a twisted and warped. Current adhesives used to make plywood are environmentally friendly but make the plywood very unstable. Sorry, but that is harsh truth.
Thank you for sharing your expertise with me. I have taken precautions to prevent warping: sealing the plywood, and using high quality hardwood plywood that states it is suitable for kitchen and bathroom cabinetry. So let’s hope that is true.
Would some kind of reinforcement on the inside help keep the door from warping?
@@lindahendricks4507 I don’t know about using reinforcement on the inside to prevent warping because I have never tried it. I use Purebond 3/4 inch plywood and seal it with Minwax Polycrylic and I have not had any warping problems. I have two cabinets in my bathroom that I made over a year ago and have not had any warping. And I actually, also have a large cabinet in my kitchen that I built over 2 years ago and have not had any warping with that one either.
@@lindahendricks4507 The problem is that the front from plywood now is usually warped. That mean is bent/crooked in two planes. Strengthening fronts warped in this way is practically impossible.
I’ve always avoided working outside in the winter and you’re out in the snow cutting wood. I guess I need to toughen up. 😂