great job , i purchased this plane off someone else on eBay and had a bad experience assembling it so now Im going to get a 3d printer and make my own piper cub , then the zero ,i purchased the files off 3dlabprint , your video answered a lot of my questions thank you
Hi Troy, Great video! can't wait for your next video, lately i have been watching this one over and over, I printed the shark a few months ago, it looks great, hanging on my ceiling as a static model, I am a beginner RC pilot, so I thought it best just to leave it hanging...pun, and it was printed with regular PLA, so flight speed would have been above my level anyway, the reason why I bought a 3d printer in the first place, was to print RC planes, I have 5 static models currently, and think I am ready for a flying model, so I am printing a 50% scale of the cup now, using blue filament, actually looks good, but still not the correct color, but anyway, wil be on a full go next week, ordering every part to make my first flying 3D printed RC plane, thank you Troy, and yes, it will crash at least 3 times!🤣😆 But that is what this hobby is al about, cheers.
Nice build and flights, welcome to float flying! I have about a 2-acre pond on my property that I prefer to fly from, float planes are always on my list. Super glad to see this Piper out there, and free! I've purchased a few from 3D Lab thus far and have been very happy with them. Currently building the AICHI M6A SEIRAN/NANZAN from them with floats. Love your videos, and it's nice to see someone with the same hobby. Yellow PLA ordered :)
I printed one as well, it came out really nice. It was great of 3DLabprint to make this a free download. I printed mine in Polymaker Lightweight PLA on my Creality Ender 5 printer and it was an easy print.
What was the weight like for your print? I'm printing one out of Polymaker LW PLA right now and my fuselage came out at 117g, almost as much as the PLA version in this video.
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
Yeah, so I looked at this print; then I found this video. I'm pretty familiar with RC helicopter builds and wanted this to be my 1st airplane. You're video and tutorial showed me everything I needed to know! Just FYI, some of the critical details were blipped over by the 'keep with the music beat' pace of the video. It wasn't missed by me, but I'm sure a few are asking WTH just happened between build segments 🥸 Thank you so much! It looks like the perfect thing to practice with!
I built this using the eSUN LW PLA and the printing of the files was easy using the prepared gcode or the 3mf files on a Prusa i3Mk3S. However a couple of words of warning - don't try to save time by printing more than one item at a time (filling the build plate). The filament oozes when travelling (even with 10mm retraction), so everything ends up covered in strands of plastic. They scrape off, but it's a pain to do. And secondly, I can't find any sign-writing vinyl that sticks to the LW PLA.
Yes, I agree, to get the best quality print one part at a time. For the vinyl, I use 3M high stick material that is meant for textured walls. It sticks so well, some have lasted for years now.
I still have some ColorFabbs LW-PLA to use up before purchasing the Polylight and wondered what, if any, the difference is and if so what settings I may need to change.
@@TroyMcMillan it's okay man, I'm glad to see that there's no "and crash" in the video title. Good thing that you waited a bit, but still I could hear the wind blow in the camera mic. Do you enjoy building the planes or flying them more? I know that it always hurts to crash any of the build but you're really nice pilot when you managed to get the plane in the air and then safely land on water. Great job, love the vid editing too.
@@LordMarinade I definitely prefer the building and tinkering aspect of this hobby. It is kind of both though because it is really satisfying to see it fly well after spending so much time building it! Crashes are a part of the hobby and I always learn a lot from them, but it is soo nice when you can bring it back home in one piece 😂 And I appreciate the feedback on the editing! Thank you!
I love this vid. Great job & thx for the help/demonstration. When printing the wings, how do you get good/solid ribs to print when they are essentially spanning the print walls/wing skin? All off my ribs are sagging because theres nothing to keep them flat during the print. Help please!
Thanks!! Have struggled with LWPLA printing, but really want to finish a plane. Downloaded this and Prusa slicer. Fuse printed beautifully in ColorFabb LWPLA! Wing just started. Thanks for the Prusa hint! Seems to be the ticket for me.
did you use the original prusa printer setup or did u go for the printer setup in the 3mf file? I haven't started printing yet, but i'm thinking go for the fillament and print settings in the 3mf file but use the prusa printer settings.
@@andreasaure6420 I used the Prusa slicer, and the 3mf files. I used 100% whatever settings came with the 3mf file - I didn't change a thing. I didn't even change to a Ender 3 in the settings - just loaded the file, sliced, saved to the card, and printed
@@scottiniowa1 ok i didnt use the 3mf files i used the gcodes :) but i think i should maybe do some tweaking since i use esun material insted of colourfabb
Instead of cutting the engine shaft, you can uclip it on the other side and smack it couple of times with hammer and it goes through (comes out on other side). That way if you later need the normal shaft, you can re-use the engine.
Its a little funny that I don't think 3D Lab Print was ready for the response from your video. They must be happy at the sametime with all the traffic you brought them.
Hello Troy, what camera do you use for the fpv at this place on the video 12:00? I would like to print this plane but I have to make my adjustments first.
I'm in the process of of printing and assembling the Piper. Very, very impressed with the model. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into its design so as to make it both strong and easy to assemble. It appears to be much more robust than the Eclipson models.
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
So cool! I got a Bambu P1P for Chriistmas and I just recently stumbled onto 3D Labs planes. After sifting through everything, I chose the Piper Cub as my first project. You definitely paved the way with this video! Excellent work. If mine turned out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.
On Printing with regular PLA I have so much issues in all Wing parts. The brodges which start at layer 78 hangs always, no matter which setting. Bridging settings doesn't have any effect to it. How you did that? Or did you have same issues in the Wing parts? Thanks for tipps and tricks!
Hi, nice job!!! did you have any problems with unsupported areas of the nose? I am trying to print with esun white lw PLA but using 3d lab print settings in prusa slicer I found that bridged areas on outside skin near the tip of the nose come out really ugly!
Been following this for a while now, trying to print out the same plane. About to wash my hands of this CR10 Smart as it just will NOT print thin wall effectively.
Great video I downloaded this model to be my first RC trainer but when I print the fuselage my fuselage has walls at the end of each piece and the part is not hollow like shown in the video. They will not snap in place together
This is my fist build. Took a little time to get the settings on the 3D printer just right (Ender 3 3D). My only question, where do I get .8 mm push-rod wire that is long enough? I see a whole bunch online that is 12" long, but it looks like this projects take a longer piece. Thank you for all of your cool videos. Looking forward to building more!
Strangely enough, that little thing added under the rudder the help steering in water is called a... wait, what is it... ah, a rudder:) Ah, like an airport is a port for ships/vessels/craft that fly;). As you know, mankind knew how to travel on water long before we could fly and there was a pretty extensive vocab that was right there for the taking for the flying folks.
that little part added to the tail isn't a traditional part on a full scale float plane. 3DLabPrint designed that to make the plane steerable in the water, but also to save weight by not adding an extra servo to the floats. It worked really well. it makes me think about 3D printed boats!
@@TroyMcMillan sure. But still a rudder. But you did call it that later on;-). It’s all good - I love your work. As for boats, it’s a good challenge for you but please do me a favor and research by checking out the printed sailboats like RG65 and IOMs. People have figured out the print settings for how to make waterproof hulls straight off the printer already. Still, I see tons of people doing their own boats and having to spend a lot of effort making them watertight. Not saying you should build a sailboat but do look into these print settings. As far as I remember, it’s about printing hot with no or few retractions and making sure your walls don’t have gaps. All stuff you’ll pick up faster than most:-). And thanks for replying!
@@AntiVaganza Haha, no you are totally right. 😉Thank you, I appreciate it. I have seen that! That would definitely be the goal to print it with it being watertight. With a boat it could stand to be printed out heavier with the extra material that would take too. A cool project for the future.
Yes, the weight penalty matters a whole lot less there. Good luck with it - I actually think you will be helping a lot of people with that project as it seems boats are something a lot of people want to tinker with. But not many think they can print them watertight so they don't look into it and instead have to deal with coating the hull afterwards. Once again, thanks for taking your time to reply. Really appreciate it!
How do you print off the decal sheet? I cant seem to find anything compatible with my laser printer. Did you print it using the Actual size setting? what size is your label sheet?
I seen the amount of super glue you used on the servo's when putting them in, would it not be better to use just a bit on the edge of the servo in case something should happen to the servo and it needs removal to be replaced?
I owned and flew 2 full size Luscombe airplanes - an 8A and an 8E. If you ever think of making a Luscombe with the same technique, that would be awesome! Great job Troy! Love the build and video! What camera(s) are you using from the plane?
I have been waiting for this video since I saw you were working on it. What prop adapter are you using? I don't see it in the parts list. Do you need to cut off the original shaft to use this motor?
Thank you!! I get them printed from a local print shop. Ask for them to be printed on 3M High Stick material, like material that is used for textured walls
I’m trying your cub as a first lw-pla plane print. It’s going ok but.. like many I’m a ender 3 entry level series printer owner. The Prusa printer is it seems is a big step up but too late now. Also most advice given in user groups is to use Cura or a Creality supplied version of it. So knowing nothing about 3D printing some time ago, we/I ended up with a Creality printer using cura. Trying to sort out the Prusa settings to load into cura has me a bit overwhelmed. So I’ve used a work around of loading the .3mf into Prusa and custom add the cura start code with a BL/CR touch g29 and left purge line the .3mf files don’t add. I save these for future Prusa reprints. Your gcodes are great except no BL touch support or left purge line included. Is it possible to include actual cura files in your place for purchase? I hope try printing some of them after I master printing and assembling the test cub. Yes I will focus on using Prusa slicer but I need to find out how to make the start code I like/need permanent and not over ridden by the imported prusa start code. Adding it to every to be printed file is time consuming. All said, the prints are slow going dealing with the start code, but gong good and I hope to be test flying the Cub very soon. Not planning on printing a lot of yellow planes my first roll of lw-pla is while so I’m assuming a coat of testers cub yellow paint will work. The way your designs snap fit together is a amazing design.
Safety notes: Test motor operation without a prop. For most radio systems: Ensure low throttle and cut off stop the motor Then re-bind to reset the "failsafe" for loss of signal. This will prevent motor start if you plug the airplane battery in before turning on the radio. Too many accidents from not ensuring failsafe settings include motor off. Most ESCs now use the default High/low of Spektrum/JR Some use Futaba's High/Low which exactly the opposite.
Hi...great channel. Its been a long time since I've been in this hobby and am thinking about getting back into it. What would you suggest for a printer. I have -0- experience with 3D printing but this seems to be a lot of fun. Any other suggestions would be great...perhaps a video for people thinking about getting into this. Thanks in advance!
Troy, currently printing this Cub, but I'm having trouble sourcing some steel pushrods for the elevator/rudder. Where do you suggest getting some 1mm steel rods that are long enough to connect? Thank you!!!
Troy, I have been following your channel for awhile now and love what you do. I would love to see you build the B-25 Mitchell from 3dlabprint if you’d be willing to do that build.
Great build Troy! I'm printing mine right now and I am wondering what material have you used for gear legs and float holders? Is it their yellow PolyAir?
@TroyMcMillan Im about to build this, build sheet shows push rod ends? I dont see them on the video anywhere, do you use these on this piper build ? Also i see lead weight? Where did you put lead weight at on this build if so? I have a bambu a1, will the gcodes need tweaked for Lwpla ? Thanks for your help in advance!
Lw pla planes are great if you already know how to fly. No so good for newbies that will crash a lot learning. I Built and rebuilt 3dlabprint’s cub at least 3 times trying to learn how to fly until i finally put it aside and designed and built a foam plane that could withstand all the crashing I went through learning. The point I am making is that its not about how repairable 3d printed planes are ( and they are quite repairable) its about how durable they are. A lw pla plane is quite fragile. One small mishap, and you’re done flying for the day. With foam, you may crash and the plane is only just a bit dented, or easily hot glued back together in the field.
I totally agree with ur comment. I'm mid build with this first 3d printed one but have been flying foamies for a few years. Kind of know what I will expect but at this point it's an itch I want to scratch. Foamies are so much quicker to get back up with when a crash happens.
@stevetomassetti4420 I have a plane that's just like that but it's a foamie with a janky nose but still flies with a little E6000. Thx for ur response!
Hi. I know it's an old post but I like this video. I just downloaded the plans and started to print the wings... It went well until I printed the wing tip. The end of the wing tip can't print right. Not enough plastic on the previous layer to support the new layer. I tried to print with a larger line width up to 0.6 mm and even a tiny layer high of 0.05 mm.... Just can't figure it out.. Can you point me in the right direction ? I normaly use Cura but downloaded Prusa to see if it would help.
Hello my friend, what you have done is very nice, I congratulate you. I'm having trouble finding a 2830 1300kv motor, can you recommend me an alternative motor?
The brand that I use is kind of challenging to get, unfortunately. Have you tried to just type that size of motor in and use another brand? Also have you checked the description of this video, I listed an alternative there!
Downloaded the 3D print files and attempting to print in Cura. Matched the files settings correctly but a base is printed on to each part. Any ideas how to omit this? Other than this, the parts print perfectly. I am talking about a setting in the printer tool, (brim / skirt etc.) set to none. It's a shame the website does not provide STL file format files.
Hi Troy, i need your advice i can buy a Spektrum dx6g2 or would i buy a new NX8? I'm a bit confused, i'm new to the hobby and have to learn everything in rc flying planes .Grtz Jozua
You should be able to! It will be heavier, so it likely will not fly as well. You just need to really check that the CG is set right. Let me know how it goes if you do this!
I'm getting my printer setup to build this plane. Awesome and timely video for me; Thanks! I watched your video on ColorFabb LW-PLA vs eSun LW-PLA. Very helpful. In your experienced opinion how do they compare to Polylight LW-PLA?
hello. I just discovered your channel and thanks to you I discovered the existence of the LW-PLA filament that I did not know. I do model making and I have a Sidewinder X1 printer. I want to print your plane. as a slicer I use Simplify 3D and Cura. you who print on the printer that I own, would it be possible to have the print settings for the LW PLA. thank you in advance. sorry for the translation but I am French. thank you for all your videos which are very interesting. Cordially
Thank you for bringing us this great model!
Thank you! It was such a fun build. Hope you enjoyed it! 😊
Ty for sharing this, I am printing one of these to learn how to fly RC.!
What a fun and amazing build. Very cool to see flying on floats, with all the scale details!
This plane turned out great, and I'm so impressed it flies so well too!
great job , i purchased this plane off someone else on eBay and had a bad experience assembling it so now Im going to get a 3d printer and make my own piper cub , then the zero ,i purchased the files off 3dlabprint , your video answered a lot of my questions thank you
For the engine detail parts you could put a colour change in the print at the required layer height. It's easy in prusaslicer.
Super easy.
Hermoso... Gracias por compartir tan maravilloso talento. Algún día seguiré tus pasos.
Hey, can you link the tire and engine pieces that you custom made? I just thought it would really look nice on my plane :)
Yes that would be nice.
Oui je pense aussi
This float addition is cool!
Its my favorite part!!
Hi Troy, Great video! can't wait for your next video, lately i have been watching this one over and over, I printed the shark a few months ago, it looks great, hanging on my ceiling as a static model, I am a beginner RC pilot, so I thought it best just to leave it hanging...pun, and it was printed with regular PLA, so flight speed would have been above my level anyway, the reason why I bought a 3d printer in the first place, was to print RC planes, I have 5 static models currently, and think I am ready for a flying model, so I am printing a 50% scale of the cup now, using blue filament, actually looks good, but still not the correct color, but anyway, wil be on a full go next week, ordering every part to make my first flying 3D printed RC plane, thank you Troy, and yes, it will crash at least 3 times!🤣😆 But that is what this hobby is al about, cheers.
Everything fits so nice
Your results may vary. Mine printed like junk. So much that I’ve given up on LW-PLA and airplanes.
Nice build and flights, welcome to float flying! I have about a 2-acre pond on my property that I prefer to fly from, float planes are always on my list. Super glad to see this Piper out there, and free! I've purchased a few from 3D Lab thus far and have been very happy with them. Currently building the AICHI M6A SEIRAN/NANZAN from them with floats. Love your videos, and it's nice to see someone with the same hobby. Yellow PLA ordered :)
I printed one as well, it came out really nice. It was great of 3DLabprint to make this a free download. I printed mine in Polymaker Lightweight PLA on my Creality Ender 5 printer and it was an easy print.
What was the weight like for your print? I'm printing one out of Polymaker LW PLA right now and my fuselage came out at 117g, almost as much as the PLA version in this video.
Hey guys, I'm going to be using the same Polymaker Lw-pla. What were your settings?
GREAT JOB Troy!!! Can you consider sharing cover of the tire .STL Please. Thanks.
Yeah I will put it up on my Cults page in the next day!
这是我见过装得最好的视频！
Always, Great job!!
thank you so much! 😊
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
Found it on ebay finally
Fantastic model¡¡¡ I noticed a wooden propeller when you were assembling the Piper. It is better a plastic prop if you go to water. Regards
Highly underrated video. Nice work man!
Nothing better than a cub on floats great job
Great job! Nice video! Thanks for sharing!
Great job! Really nice little Cub. Going to print this now. 👍🏻😁
Thank you! Have fun with it 😊
Yeah, so I looked at this print; then I found this video. I'm pretty familiar with RC helicopter builds and wanted this to be my 1st airplane. You're video and tutorial showed me everything I needed to know! Just FYI, some of the critical details were blipped over by the 'keep with the music beat' pace of the video. It wasn't missed by me, but I'm sure a few are asking WTH just happened between build segments 🥸
Thank you so much! It looks like the perfect thing to practice with!
😊
I built this using the eSUN LW PLA and the printing of the files was easy using the prepared gcode or the 3mf files on a Prusa i3Mk3S. However a couple of words of warning - don't try to save time by printing more than one item at a time (filling the build plate). The filament oozes when travelling (even with 10mm retraction), so everything ends up covered in strands of plastic. They scrape off, but it's a pain to do. And secondly, I can't find any sign-writing vinyl that sticks to the LW PLA.
Yes, I agree, to get the best quality print one part at a time. For the vinyl, I use 3M high stick material that is meant for textured walls. It sticks so well, some have lasted for years now.
What if you use PLA and print multiple parts at same time, will the same problem happen?
@@TroyMcMillanHow do you print vinyl to make drawings and letters?
@@TroyMcMillanMe too I tried with the gcode but obviously it’s not available with my nozzle
@@awssassim Yes because it's using Vase mode. One path start to finish.
Excellent job
thank you!!
Great job!
Very nice prop!
Awesome video Troy, I'm building this one!
Wow, thank you for sharing it!🙏🏼
Super nice video. Great first water landing! Keep it up!
Thank you so much!! Flying it off water was so much fun
You make excellent video's ,, so well edited
Thank you so much!! I really do appreciate the feedback 😊
Awesome as always!
thank you so much! 😊
What is the Wingspan Troy! Very nice looking Micro RC Piper J-3 Cub Troy! Wonderful building skills my friend!!😉🛩💯
Thank you so much!! 42" wingspan!
@@TroyMcMillan your welcome sir!!
Been waiting so long and its totally worth to watch. U rock 🤘
Thank you so much!! 😊
I still have some ColorFabbs LW-PLA to use up before purchasing the Polylight and wondered what, if any, the difference is and if so what settings I may need to change.
It prints out pretty much the same, I use 245C for PolyLight and I use 235C for ColorFABB. Everything else should be the same!
I printed this in lightweight pla. I also printed your a21 airliner. Keep up the good work 👍
That's what I've been waiting for like 2 weeks 😍
Same as you 🍻
Yes!! The wind is crazy here in Vegas, I had to wait an extra week for it to calm down
@@TroyMcMillan it's okay man, I'm glad to see that there's no "and crash" in the video title. Good thing that you waited a bit, but still I could hear the wind blow in the camera mic. Do you enjoy building the planes or flying them more? I know that it always hurts to crash any of the build but you're really nice pilot when you managed to get the plane in the air and then safely land on water. Great job, love the vid editing too.
@@LordMarinade I definitely prefer the building and tinkering aspect of this hobby. It is kind of both though because it is really satisfying to see it fly well after spending so much time building it!
Crashes are a part of the hobby and I always learn a lot from them, but it is soo nice when you can bring it back home in one piece 😂
And I appreciate the feedback on the editing! Thank you!
I love this vid. Great job & thx for the help/demonstration. When printing the wings, how do you get good/solid ribs to print when they are essentially spanning the print walls/wing skin? All off my ribs are sagging because theres nothing to keep them flat during the print. Help please!
Thanks!! Have struggled with LWPLA printing, but really want to finish a plane. Downloaded this and Prusa slicer. Fuse printed beautifully in ColorFabb LWPLA! Wing just started. Thanks for the Prusa hint! Seems to be the ticket for me.
That’s awesome to hear! Thanks for letting me know it’s working for you! 😊
did you use the original prusa printer setup or did u go for the printer setup in the 3mf file? I haven't started printing yet, but i'm thinking go for the fillament and print settings in the 3mf file but use the prusa printer settings.
@@andreasaure6420 I used the Prusa slicer, and the 3mf files. I used 100% whatever settings came with the 3mf file - I didn't change a thing. I didn't even change to a Ender 3 in the settings - just loaded the file, sliced, saved to the card, and printed
@@scottiniowa1 ok i didnt use the 3mf files i used the gcodes :) but i think i should maybe do some tweaking since i use esun material insted of colourfabb
Avery nice project that you have presented. I have printed and assembled my model and am wondering about the C.G ??
Sorry about that ...just found it (should have read the small print. :
Instead of cutting the engine shaft, you can uclip it on the other side and smack it couple of times with hammer and it goes through (comes out on other side). That way if you later need the normal shaft, you can re-use the engine.
Possibly needed the room behind the motor.
Impressive
thank you!
Its a little funny that I don't think 3D Lab Print was ready for the response from your video. They must be happy at the sametime with all the traffic you brought them.
Haha! 😂 I’m glad everyone likes this plane as much as I do!
Hello Troy, what camera do you use for the fpv at this place on the video 12:00?
I would like to print this plane but I have to make my adjustments first.
I'm in the process of of printing and assembling the Piper. Very, very impressed with the model. It is obvious that a lot of thought went into its design so as to make it both strong and easy to assemble. It appears to be much more robust than the Eclipson models.
Hi, I'm having trouble finding the push rod wire or cable. Where does one find 0.8mm music wire? Not seeing any thru Google search and not in the build list. Most push rods are at most 450mm and one will need at least 500mm or more to fit.
So cool!
I got a Bambu P1P for Chriistmas and I just recently stumbled onto 3D Labs planes. After sifting through everything, I chose the Piper Cub as my first project. You definitely paved the way with this video! Excellent work. If mine turned out half as good as yours, I'll be happy.
Did you get the files to work? When I slice fuselage part 2 it wheigh 142g alone.
@@PhoneyBill Did you try too decrease the infill? And is the weight with supports? And what kind of pla do you use?
Another great build! I’d love to see you make Planeprint’s Rise glider
How many spools of LW PLA does it take to make.
Little less than one
Awesome video! Troy, could you share the printable float files?
Love your work! Wish my prints came out like yours .... will you share the Prusa settings?
On Printing with regular PLA I have so much issues in all Wing parts. The brodges which start at layer 78 hangs always, no matter which setting. Bridging settings doesn't have any effect to it. How you did that? Or did you have same issues in the Wing parts? Thanks for tipps and tricks!
Hi, nice job!!! did you have any problems with unsupported areas of the nose? I am trying to print with esun white lw PLA but using 3d lab print settings in prusa slicer I found that bridged areas on outside skin near the tip of the nose come out really ugly!
Nice design job. Flies well. Is it strong enough for aerobatics - loops, rolls, spins?
I printed my tires using TPU 95A and they are very hard, like PLA. What filament do you use?
Very Beautyvoll Airplane
Is it Possible to laminate 3D Print RC Planes? Or will it Melt? If it Possible will it effect the strenth? And the aerodynamics?
Been following this for a while now, trying to print out the same plane. About to wash my hands of this CR10 Smart as it just will NOT print thin wall effectively.
CR10 prints thin wall very well. Its TPU that you can have difficulties with! Good luck, these planes are awesome!
@@3drcking It’s the smart part of the CR10 Smart that’s giving me issues. Never experienced any of these with my Ender 3 V2.
I really wanted to try out a CR10 but I never did! I have heard it does work well for thin wall though.
Great video I downloaded this model to be my first RC trainer but when I print the fuselage my fuselage has walls at the end of each piece and the part is not hollow like shown in the video. They will not snap in place together
This is my fist build. Took a little time to get the settings on the 3D printer just right (Ender 3 3D). My only question, where do I get .8 mm push-rod wire that is long enough? I see a whole bunch online that is 12" long, but it looks like this projects take a longer piece.
Thank you for all of your cool videos. Looking forward to building more!
Strangely enough, that little thing added under the rudder the help steering in water is called a... wait, what is it... ah, a rudder:)
Ah, like an airport is a port for ships/vessels/craft that fly;).
As you know, mankind knew how to travel on water long before we could fly and there was a pretty extensive vocab that was right there for the taking for the flying folks.
that little part added to the tail isn't a traditional part on a full scale float plane. 3DLabPrint designed that to make the plane steerable in the water, but also to save weight by not adding an extra servo to the floats. It worked really well.
it makes me think about 3D printed boats!
@@TroyMcMillan sure. But still a rudder. But you did call it that later on;-). It’s all good - I love your work.
As for boats, it’s a good challenge for you but please do me a favor and research by checking out the printed sailboats like RG65 and IOMs. People have figured out the print settings for how to make waterproof hulls straight off the printer already. Still, I see tons of people doing their own boats and having to spend a lot of effort making them watertight. Not saying you should build a sailboat but do look into these print settings. As far as I remember, it’s about printing hot with no or few retractions and making sure your walls don’t have gaps. All stuff you’ll pick up faster than most:-).
And thanks for replying!
@@AntiVaganza Haha, no you are totally right. 😉Thank you, I appreciate it.
I have seen that! That would definitely be the goal to print it with it being watertight. With a boat it could stand to be printed out heavier with the extra material that would take too. A cool project for the future.
Yes, the weight penalty matters a whole lot less there.
Good luck with it - I actually think you will be helping a lot of people with that project as it seems boats are something a lot of people want to tinker with. But not many think they can print them watertight so they don't look into it and instead have to deal with coating the hull afterwards.
Once again, thanks for taking your time to reply. Really appreciate it!
How do you print off the decal sheet? I cant seem to find anything compatible with my laser printer. Did you print it using the Actual size setting? what size is your label sheet?
I seen the amount of super glue you used on the servo's when putting them in, would it not be better to use just a bit on the edge of the servo in case something should happen to the servo and it needs removal to be replaced?
Hi, great build! I was wondering where to purchase the correct wires needed for the elevator and rudder servos? Thanks!
Nice job.
I owned and flew 2 full size Luscombe airplanes - an 8A and an 8E. If you ever think of making a Luscombe with the same technique, that would be awesome! Great job Troy! Love the build and video! What camera(s) are you using from the plane?
I have been waiting for this video since I saw you were working on it. What prop adapter are you using? I don't see it in the parts list. Do you need to cut off the original shaft to use this motor?
Awesome !!!
Another great video Troy. I am currently printing this plane and I have a question where did you get your decals printed? Thanks for your help.
Thank you!! I get them printed from a local print shop. Ask for them to be printed on 3M High Stick material, like material that is used for textured walls
I’m trying your cub as a first lw-pla plane print. It’s going ok but.. like many I’m a ender 3 entry level series printer owner. The Prusa printer is it seems is a big step up but too late now. Also most advice given in user groups is to use Cura or a Creality supplied version of it. So knowing nothing about 3D printing some time ago, we/I ended up with a Creality printer using cura. Trying to sort out the Prusa settings to load into cura has me a bit overwhelmed. So I’ve used a work around of loading the .3mf into Prusa and custom add the cura start code with a BL/CR touch g29 and left purge line the .3mf files don’t add. I save these for future Prusa reprints. Your gcodes are great except no BL touch support or left purge line included.
Is it possible to include actual cura files in your place for purchase? I hope try printing some of them after I master printing and assembling the test cub. Yes I will focus on using Prusa slicer but I need to find out how to make the start code I like/need permanent and not over ridden by the imported prusa start code. Adding it to every to be printed file is time consuming.
All said, the prints are slow going dealing with the start code, but gong good and I hope to be test flying the Cub very soon. Not planning on printing a lot of yellow planes my first roll of lw-pla is while so I’m assuming a coat of testers cub yellow paint will work.
The way your designs snap fit together is a amazing design.
Incredible landscape - Nevada!?
padu bro🇵🇸🇷🇺ilike
😊😊😊 thank you bro
Hi Troy and nice work! Do you think you can share the stl files for the engines? they look very good, but I can't make them the same :)).. thanks!
Whoa!, I'm used to balsa planes!
Safety notes:
Test motor operation without a prop.
For most radio systems:
Ensure low throttle and cut off stop the motor Then re-bind to reset the "failsafe" for loss of signal.
This will prevent motor start if you plug the airplane battery in before turning on the radio.
Too many accidents from not ensuring failsafe settings include motor off.
Most ESCs now use the default High/low of Spektrum/JR Some use Futaba's High/Low which exactly the opposite.
Hi...great channel. Its been a long time since I've been in this hobby and am thinking about getting back into it. What would you suggest for a printer. I have -0- experience with 3D printing but this seems to be a lot of fun. Any other suggestions would be great...perhaps a video for people thinking about getting into this. Thanks in advance!
Troy great build and mod. Where did you get the Float Design STLs?
Hi Troy! You convinced me to build this little cub! Can you by chance share the file for the wheel covers, please :) Thanks in advance!
Hi thanks for the video, can I use Bambo Studio for slicing? I have a bambo P1S printer
Yes you can
yea good video as usual. WHat TPU did you use for the tyres?
thank you! I used varioshore tpu
Nice build! I’m looking at making a display model for my office. Could this be scaled up 25-50% without issues? Thanks!
Troy, currently printing this Cub, but I'm having trouble sourcing some steel pushrods for the elevator/rudder. Where do you suggest getting some 1mm steel rods that are long enough to connect? Thank you!!!
I'm having this same issue. Most out there are 450mm long. What did you end up doing? (Am mid-build at moment)
pretty cool
Troy, I have been following your channel for awhile now and love what you do.
I would love to see you build the B-25 Mitchell from 3dlabprint if you’d be willing to do that build.
Very nice!
Great build Troy! I'm printing mine right now and I am wondering what material have you used for gear legs and float holders? Is it their yellow PolyAir?
To get as close to the same color I printed the same 3D LabPrint LWPLA with regular PLA setting and it worked really good
@TroyMcMillan Im about to build this, build sheet shows push rod ends? I dont see them on the video anywhere, do you use these on this piper build ? Also i see lead weight? Where did you put lead weight at on this build if so? I have a bambu a1, will the gcodes need tweaked for Lwpla ? Thanks for your help in advance!
@@TroyMcMillan oh that’s clever 😎 Thank you for a tip 👍🏻
Lw pla planes are great if you already know how to fly. No so good for newbies that will crash a lot learning. I Built and rebuilt 3dlabprint’s cub at least 3 times trying to learn how to fly until i finally put it aside and designed and built a foam plane that could withstand all the crashing I went through learning. The point I am making is that its not about how repairable 3d printed planes are ( and they are quite repairable) its about how durable they are. A lw pla plane is quite fragile. One small mishap, and you’re done flying for the day. With foam, you may crash and the plane is only just a bit dented, or easily hot glued back together in the field.
I totally agree with ur comment. I'm mid build with this first 3d printed one but have been flying foamies for a few years. Kind of know what I will expect but at this point it's an itch I want to scratch. Foamies are so much quicker to get back up with when a crash happens.
@@ArceezRC upto 9 rebuilds on the cub. Me thinks I may be cursed to crash that model the most.
@stevetomassetti4420 I have a plane that's just like that but it's a foamie with a janky nose but still flies with a little E6000. Thx for ur response!
Hi. I know it's an old post but I like this video. I just downloaded the plans and started to print the wings... It went well until I printed the wing tip. The end of the wing tip can't print right. Not enough plastic on the previous layer to support the new layer. I tried to print with a larger line width up to 0.6 mm and even a tiny layer high of 0.05 mm.... Just can't figure it out.. Can you point me in the right direction ?
I normaly use Cura but downloaded Prusa to see if it would help.
Love you Video too! 😍👍👍👍
Thank you!!! 😊
Hello my friend, what you have done is very nice, I congratulate you. I'm having trouble finding a 2830 1300kv motor, can you recommend me an alternative motor?
The brand that I use is kind of challenging to get, unfortunately. Have you tried to just type that size of motor in and use another brand? Also have you checked the description of this video, I listed an alternative there!
The instructions says use a 2930-1000 kv. That's more common.
Would PETG be appropriate for the elevator hinges rather than ABS? Don't want to have to buy a roll of something I can't print with.
Yes! PETG will work fine
@@TroyMcMillan Thank you!
Downloaded the 3D print files and attempting to print in Cura. Matched the files settings correctly but a base is printed on to each part. Any ideas how to omit this? Other than this, the parts print perfectly. I am talking about a setting in the printer tool, (brim / skirt etc.) set to none.
It's a shame the website does not provide STL file format files.
wow its such cool
Thank you!!
@@TroyMcMillan sir, how much material is needed to print it the lwpla ?
@@jakubzabocki6182 its a little more than a quarter of a roll! You could very nearly print out 4 of these planes from a single roll of LWPLA
Hi Troy, i need your advice i can buy a Spektrum dx6g2 or would i buy a new NX8? I'm a bit confused, i'm new to the hobby and have to learn everything in rc flying planes .Grtz Jozua
Nice work as always! How did you learn Fusion360, your build of the AA bird a while ago was really amazing!
Great video as always. Additing the floats is such a fantastic idea, how much weight do they add with the flex seal ?
The flex seal added about 8g
Good video, one question, I can make the fuselage in PLA + and the wing in LW PLA, since in my country it is difficult to get LW PLA. Thank you
You should be able to! It will be heavier, so it likely will not fly as well. You just need to really check that the CG is set right. Let me know how it goes if you do this!
I'm getting my printer setup to build this plane. Awesome and timely video for me; Thanks! I watched your video on ColorFabb LW-PLA vs eSun LW-PLA. Very helpful. In your experienced opinion how do they compare to Polylight LW-PLA?
hello. I just discovered your channel and thanks to you I discovered the existence of the LW-PLA filament that I did not know. I do model making and I have a Sidewinder X1 printer. I want to print your plane. as a slicer I use Simplify 3D and Cura. you who print on the printer that I own, would it be possible to have the print settings for the LW PLA. thank you in advance. sorry for the translation but I am French. thank you for all your videos which are very interesting. Cordially
Hi, great video, are there STLs for the floats?
They are included in the STL for the cub!
Which 3d printer did you use for this? Was it their super racer or a different model?
Hi! Did you print the floats with regular PLA or LW? Like everything with one wall loop? Thanks!