This video is about the only one out there that shows a DYIer how to pour the glue out of the can cleanly and put glue back in it cleanly. Great video.
I decided to install 18mm ply on concrete and fix engineered board to this and also glue the joints. Never want to see a gap in years to come. Nice work with the glue, I would have made a mess although I have done plenty of tiling.
I did watch that video (and I bought a rasp!). But in one video - after using the rasp - you place the fein blade on a...stone? What is that sharpening tool? And how do you sharpen the laminate board cutter blade. Thank you so much for answering my questions! I have watched maybe 50 laminate floor videos and yours are - by far! - the best!
I watched many of your videos and understood why you are starting in the middle of the room. In the videos you continue with one side, but I would like to understand how do you proceed when you come back to the other unfinished side of the room. How do you attach the first row to the already glued floor? Can the boards be attached from both directions? Thank you!
Hi Cornelia, thanks for this question! After finished side with tongue, I removed blocks from another side and just follow installation - puts another boards tongue to the grove.
Thanks for the privilege of watching a first class tradesman who has refined his skill through years of practice and takes a real pride in his work. Men like you are not easy to find in the construction industry these days. Keep up the good work. I don't see any videos on covering open tread steps in a staircase with hardwood, before these treads where covered top and bottom with carpet wrapped round 360 degrees covering each individual tread. Any ideas how to do this?
So is the reason you don't water proof the floor is because it is in the Bostik TKO? Also what is best to fill any cracks and what prep work would be needed for this? This is a good video and a couple more explanations of why you use certain things would be great but the info and ideas are great and actually involve a concrete floor unlike most of the other ones that have wooden floors to glue to. Also one last question why do you trim the tack strip from that finishing bar?
I plan on buying my first house soon, and plan on replacing carpeted area with hardwood flooring. From what I have researched so far, this type, the engineered hardwood flooring, seems to be the easiest to install? And if that's so, would you say this is a project a beginner could handle? I have some experience with tile work, and while not the same at all, I seemed to grasp that concept quickly so would hope I could do the same with wood flooring.
If you do this yourself don’t swirl the glue onto the floor. Trowel in straight lines, horizontal or vertically away from you, makes no difference. However, your flooring boards should be placed perpendicular to your troweled glue so think about which direction you want to glue. Swirling closes off the glue channels and leaves no exit for air and will eventually cause a failure.
Here it is: Hardwood Floor Installation How to Connect Existing Hardwood Floor with New One Mryoucandoityourself ua-cam.com/video/Qzi9sgmRz4o/v-deo.html
Every project is different. At this time I have three videos on this topic. You can find them in my playlist "Hardwood Floor Installation 101" or copy and paste this titles in youtube search window: "How to Install Hardwood Flooring around a Fireplace" "How to Install White Oak Wide Plank Flooring around a Fireplace" - Here I use interesting technique how to measure and cut boards under the angle. "Installing Engineered Hardwood Flooring around a Bar in the Basement" - This video about floor around a Bar, but technique of installation is same as around a fireplace. Please watch these video first and if you have additional questions, please feel free.
Could you touch a little bit more on how you start your first line? Do you just measure equally off the starting wall the length of the room, snap a line, and then glue down your support blocks? I'm just wondering what the best way is to avoid issues when getting to the final rows and finding out that the room was off parallel or some similar issue. BTW, learning a lot from your videos, Thanks!
You need a Roberts jamb saw... The Fein is good for some things; wide jambs they take 10 times too long...Awesome info you have here!!! Thank you. I came across this video as Im doing my first and last glue down engineered hardwood job ever...The tongue and groove are so tight the only way you can pound them together is with a floor stapler which Im not doing...So its a block an hammer method thats taking forever...3 days to do 250 sq ft. Never again.
why did you start in the middle of the room? because of the door? im assuming you cant slide the wood once it has been placed on glued surface? thanks for the vid
You can do and use everything you want. It depends on your fantasy, skills and experience. But… Actually all transitions between wood floor and other types of floor covering are made from the wood. You can do smooth transition from the regular board of your floor. Just slightly undercut it from the top to the bottom with small angle (to put carpet under it). You can use any kind of Bostic. Bostic is the best glue I have used for the last 8 years. Hope it helps.
Is that so it stays flatter and a smoother transition with the tiles? Also would you use your same idea for carpet our just use a the strip with the tack strip still intact as it isn't a hard surface like the tiles? I'm about to head down this track of doing my own floors in the next couple of weeks so just getting the final bits of info. Is the Bostik TKO a good product and no real issues as this is the first I have even heard of it. Thanks in advance sorry for all the questions
I start in the middle of the room because of the connection with a tile. It is easier first to install hardwood boars perpendicular to the tile and than to extend them on the both sides. And yes, I glue small pieces of hardwood which do not let to move the regular boards. Hope it helps.
I done this job just one time in my professional life. Nobody installs this staff after the tile installation. It was customer's designer idea.First I cut schluter strip (it has "L" profile) and glue it with hot glue. No any additional secrets, but it really looks nice. More questions about engineered hardwood flooring installation on concrete? I am here to help you!
I'm intrigued with your application of the Schluter strip. Can you provide more details on how you used it? We have marble thresholds against our tile and are abutting the tile with hardwood. I'm assuming I need to remove the marble threshold? I'd love to use the Schluter strips for a smoother transition.
Unfortunately being in australia they don't have that glue available here so they are basically making hard now as I may have to seal the floor money I hadn't budgeted for the job as no adhesives for this application have a moisture barrier included but will be calling them to double check this as I don't want to lay the floor and have it come up due to moisture
Thank you for making this GREAT video. You glue technique is masterful. I'm a do it yourself guy who made the mistake of wearing shorts his first time. Getting the glue off my legs was the equivalent of wax hair removal and resulted in a trip to the ER a few days later when the area swelled due to allergic reaction (ugh). I bought Bruce three inch planks but felt the sum total of all the bowed pieces in the boxes was too many. Do you just toss them or force them down with heavy weight? I cringe suggesting the later but have to ask. I ended up cutting portions at the ends of those planks that were small enough in length where there was no bow and used them for end pieces, tossing the leftover material. Practical but felt painful to waste so much. I have a few installed planks on the middle of the floor that I need to replace thanks to a leaky aquarium that caused water damage. The only videos I have found involve replacing non-engineered hardwood on plywood. They show cutting the planks up into sections with a circular saw and then popping the pieces out. Am leery I'll accidentally grind the blade into concrete but also concerned that if I don't cut deep enough into wood, nothing is going to pop out. How have you done it?
Please find my videos about floor repair and you'll see how to remove and install planks. For example: "Hardwood Floor Repair by Radeco Hardwood Flooring Vancouver Ltd."
I installed the metal shlutter because of the designer's idea. Bostik TKO doesn't provide a water protection. For this purpose there is another product. Please note: before you start your wood installation you should make perfect floor levelling. If you have never done it before I recommend inviting a good specialist for this work and do not save on levelling!!!
Great video. How is the concrete floor prepped prior to installation? Is a sealant needed for a second floor concrete floor (above garage)? How do you feel about combined adhesive and moisture control products such as Titebond 771 or Roberts R1530? My installer is planning on using RedGard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane (Model# LQWAF3) as water proofing membrane spread with a roller on 2nd floor concrete slab. According to the manufacturer, RedGard can be used as a slab-on-grade moisture vapor barrier under all types of floor coverings. He will then install flooring with Roberts Model 1407-1 Engineered Wood Glue Adhesive. Does this seem the best way to do it? Thanks!
I have never used material you mentioned in your post. Crack prevention membrane is better to use for the tile, not for hardwood, so it is not necessary in your case. Here is the most important thing: Your floor adhesive and moisture protection material MUST be from ONE brand company. It can give you guarantees that glue will not unsticking from the moisture protection in the future. Good luck in your project!
First of all it is engineered floor. This type of hardwood has low expansion that's why many people like it! The second one I installed rift quoter boards. They have expansion only up and down. The third one - the connection of material was perpendicular to the tile. That's it! Hope it helps
I'm installing unfinished 3/4" x 3-1/4" red oak engineered over a mudded slab. I am using a moisture barrier glue. I have a couple cracks that are in a couple places throughout the room. They don't put the floor out of level but should they be filled? if so what with?
What a GREAT video! But, is there no need for an expension gap there against the tiles (near the schuler strip) ? I always wonder... Will do this myself next week so would appreciate feedback :-) This is by far the clearest instruction vid on youtube for this! Thanks!
Hi there, how important is it to acclimate the planks? My installer had the floor delivered one day and then installed the next. 8 months later I'm having serious "crackling" problem. Is there any relation between the two? The floor is an engineered floating hardwood floor. /Thanks
If you have floor cracking in a short period of installation it can be related to the hardwood floor installer mistakes, but not in several month! Your cracks have another reasons.
Hi, we have 3 tipe of installation -nail down, glue down and floating floor. For floating floor on concrete you have to use underlament only. Glue, for glue down installation.
+Jennifer Hoang For each type of glue you can find instruction on the bucket. It shows all sizes of trowels you need to use. The trowel in this video - 1/4 x 1/4.
Mr You Can Do it Yourself! I have loved watching your videos and have subscribed to your channel. On a couple of them you mention that you can sharpen the Bullit tool and other blades yourself. How do you do it? The Bullit I bought does get dull - and the honing stone they give you doesn't seem to renew the original sharpness. Thanks!
1. What kind of subfloor is under your hardwood? 2. If you gonna install hardwood with glue-down technique you must remove epoxy from the concrete: grinding or use special removing. 3. On the another half of room you should install the same kind of hardwood. If you installed it few years ago it would be very difficult to find in the stores. 4 It is very difficult to give any recommendations online. Please apply to professionals in your city. Usually, any estimate is for free. Ask several people
hello love your videos very informative. just a question on gluing onto concrete I am wanting to glue a solid hardwood to cement slab but was wondering about moisture. the slab or house is about 25 years old and had carpet no visible sings of moisture do i still have to test it for moisture? also it's a 3/4 inch hardwood do i use a 3/8 expansion gap on the ends? Jake.
Hi my friend, very good questions! 1. Moisture you can't check by your ayes. Need to find moister meter or invite professional with this tool. 2.3/4 -is not easy glue to the concrete sub floor, because this floor for nail down, and boards not straight, you have to use clamps. If you don't have experiences - you will die. 3.Yes you have to have a gap, not less than 1/4, because solid wood very expended. Good luck!
Today was my first attempt at using adhesive on concrete to glue down Cali Bamboo flooring. I'm sad to say that I failed epically. I poured out enough adhesive to do 3 rows of flooring. I only got 3 planks down before panic set in and I started pulling up the planks I set down. It was chaotic to say the least. I used mineral spirits for the cleanup. My question is; since mineral spirits is oil based, do I have to scrape the floor again before I fail at my second attempt? I wish I had paid closer attention to these videos before I started pouring the adhesive. Thank you in advance for any and all advice you can throw my way. By the way, I'm using Bostik Wood Grip Plus on concrete with Cali Bamboo flooring. Pathetically yours, A HUGE idiot
Hi, all mineral oil you have to grinding out before apply glue again. Also, the easiest way to remove dry glue from the concrete subfloor- use scraper. If you apply glue and doing installation and glue getting dry, don’t worry. Installed part of floor you can leave, dry glue remove with scraper then apply glue again and follow installation. Very simple. Don’t apply all the way if glue dry so fast . Just do it part by part. Thanks!
If you put any kind of sealant on the floor it will cause problem with the glue adhering properly. You need to lay on fresh concrete or sand old concrete first if you have anything that will prevent the glue from sticking. You can test it with water, If it sinks in you're good to go, if it sits on the top you have to sand off the material that is stopping the water first.
Yeah it has a moisture retarder according to their website but wouldn't know how good that is and then there is vapor lock which is another product but both aren't available here in Aus. This is so annoying as this is the only part I'm unsure on the rest is pretty easily done.
I notice you do not ever use a roller to press down the wood onto the glue. I have seen you kick it and slam it with a mallet, I guess that does the same? The hardwood installations instructions that came with my wood recommend a roller, and some of the installation already completed has a hollow sound, although most sounds solid. I am using the glue manufacturer recommended 1/4"x1/4" trowel. Do you recommend I roll it?
I do not recommend anything. I just show how I install hardwood and laminate floor. I am doing it every day for more then 10 years. There are instructions on each bucket of glue: for what hardwood it is and which trowel to use.
When I done same job for the first time in my life, the glue was everywhere (even in my hair!). I am doing this work for more than 10 years, that's why it is so easily for me. I am sure you can do something else and much better than me! Thank you for watching my videos!
Thanks for liking my video! You can find an answer to your question in my video "Blades and Trowel Preparation for Wood Floor Installation" (just copy and paste this title in the search window on youtube and you'll find it easily). For sharping I use a rasp (a file?). English is my second language and I am not sure it is right name for this tool or not. Any more questions? Please feel free!
Have you ever install hardwood floor with glue-down technique? First take some courses and learn how to do it. You'll get all answers to your questions.
The more people - the more techniques (and habits). Just share your skills here on youtube and you'll know what people think about it. Real professionals always happy to know more.
Oh no! Masking tape to keep boards tight. Folks. Don't do it. Chances are very good it will pull the finish off. Not a bad video, but I'd be more inclined to rent a power jamb saw for undercutting. We didn't see a closeup of the finished work. Once again chances are ...good it doesn't provide as clean a cut as a power jamb saw...Looks lie a nice floor prep job!
There are lots of guys who want to learn. I've been working as a floor installer for 12 years and I remember that nobody wanted help me when I started working. That's why I share my experience here today.
This video is about the only one out there that shows a DYIer how to pour the glue out of the can cleanly and put glue back in it cleanly. Great video.
You are right!
By far, the best engineered hardwood floor installation video on the internet... or on Earth! I'm psyched to do my own now. Thank you very much.
I decided to install 18mm ply on concrete and fix engineered board to this and also glue the joints. Never want to see a gap in years to come. Nice work with the glue, I would have made a mess although I have done plenty of tiling.
Thanks for your comment!
Great work. What kind of trowel are you using? Can you give me a link? Im looking everywhere and its imosible to find?
This is a good one - www.lowes.ca/product/flooring-trowels/capitol-316-in-x-14-in-x-516-in-v-notch-flooring-trowel-294600
I did watch that video (and I bought a rasp!). But in one video - after using the rasp - you place the fein blade on a...stone? What is that sharpening tool? And how do you sharpen the laminate board cutter blade.
Thank you so much for answering my questions! I have watched maybe 50 laminate floor videos and yours are - by far! - the best!
I really liked the simplicity of the video. Very helpful
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting!
I watched many of your videos and understood why you are starting in the middle of the room. In the videos you continue with one side, but I would like to understand how do you proceed when you come back to the other unfinished side of the room. How do you attach the first row to the already glued floor? Can the boards be attached from both directions? Thank you!
Hi Cornelia, thanks for this question!
After finished side with tongue, I removed blocks from another side and just follow installation - puts another boards tongue to the grove.
@@MrYoucandoityourself , thank you very much for your prompt response!
If you have more question don't hesitate ask me again!
Thanks for the privilege of watching a first class tradesman who has refined his skill through years of practice and takes a real pride in his work. Men like you are not easy to find in the construction industry these days. Keep up the good work. I don't see any videos on covering open tread steps in a staircase with hardwood, before these treads where covered top and bottom with carpet wrapped round 360 degrees covering each individual tread. Any ideas how to do this?
+George Ferris I am doing only hardwood and laminate.
This floor turned out really beautiful!!
Thanks!
This is a stone for sharpening blades and when you bought the laminate cutter it comes with the stone for sharpening. Hope it helps.
So is the reason you don't water proof the floor is because it is in the Bostik TKO? Also what is best to fill any cracks and what prep work would be needed for this? This is a good video and a couple more explanations of why you use certain things would be great but the info and ideas are great and actually involve a concrete floor unlike most of the other ones that have wooden floors to glue to. Also one last question why do you trim the tack strip from that finishing bar?
What kind of glue do you recommend I use on engendered wood floor
Bona or Bostik.
I plan on buying my first house soon, and plan on replacing carpeted area with hardwood flooring. From what I have researched so far, this type, the engineered hardwood flooring, seems to be the easiest to install? And if that's so, would you say this is a project a beginner could handle? I have some experience with tile work, and while not the same at all, I seemed to grasp that concept quickly so would hope I could do the same with wood flooring.
If you have never install hardwood with glue down technique I DO NOT RECOMMEND you to do it yourself.
If you do this yourself don’t swirl the glue onto the floor. Trowel in straight lines, horizontal or vertically away from you, makes no difference. However, your flooring boards should be placed perpendicular to your troweled glue so think about which direction you want to glue. Swirling closes off the glue channels and leaves no exit for air and will eventually cause a failure.
How often you doing glue down hardwood floor installation?
How can I extend my existing wooden floor? How do I remove some of the old smaller pieces to make them full length and continue the installation?
Here it is: Hardwood Floor Installation How to Connect Existing Hardwood Floor with New One Mryoucandoityourself ua-cam.com/video/Qzi9sgmRz4o/v-deo.html
MrYoucandoityourself thanks you very much for the reply.
@@alancastrejon1595 You are welcome!
Hi, thanks for this video. Is it going to be a problem later on if we don't leave expansion gap between the tile and the hardwood floor?
Nor Wei If you leave expansion gap only on one side of floor - it is enough.
Thanks for the quick reply...
You are welcome!
Have you ever installed eng hardwood around a fireplace? If so, what method did you use?
Every project is different.
At this time I have three videos on this topic. You can find them in my playlist "Hardwood Floor Installation 101" or copy and paste this titles in youtube search window:
"How to Install Hardwood Flooring around a Fireplace"
"How to Install White Oak Wide Plank Flooring around a Fireplace" - Here I use interesting technique how to measure and cut boards under the angle.
"Installing Engineered Hardwood Flooring around a Bar in the Basement" - This video about floor around a Bar, but technique of installation is same as around a fireplace.
Please watch these video first and if you have additional questions, please feel free.
Could you touch a little bit more on how you start your first line? Do you just measure equally off the starting wall the length of the room, snap a line, and then glue down your support blocks? I'm just wondering what the best way is to avoid issues when getting to the final rows and finding out that the room was off parallel or some similar issue. BTW, learning a lot from your videos, Thanks!
You need a Roberts jamb saw... The Fein is good for some things; wide jambs they take 10 times too long...Awesome info you have here!!! Thank you. I came across this video as Im doing my first and last glue down engineered hardwood job ever...The tongue and groove are so tight the only way you can pound them together is with a floor stapler which Im not doing...So its a block an hammer method thats taking forever...3 days to do 250 sq ft. Never again.
+Rocky Constable This is the old video. At these days I am using a "Crain" saw. Thank you for watching!
why did you start in the middle of the room? because of the door? im assuming you cant slide the wood once it has been placed on glued surface? thanks for the vid
You can do and use everything you want. It depends on your fantasy, skills and experience. But… Actually all transitions between wood floor and other types of floor covering are made from the wood. You can do smooth transition from the regular board of your floor. Just slightly undercut it from the top to the bottom with small angle (to put carpet under it). You can use any kind of Bostic. Bostic is the best glue I have used for the last 8 years. Hope it helps.
Is that so it stays flatter and a smoother transition with the tiles? Also would you use your same idea for carpet our just use a the strip with the tack strip still intact as it isn't a hard surface like the tiles? I'm about to head down this track of doing my own floors in the next couple of weeks so just getting the final bits of info. Is the Bostik TKO a good product and no real issues as this is the first I have even heard of it. Thanks in advance sorry for all the questions
I start in the middle of the room because of the connection with a tile. It is easier first to install hardwood boars perpendicular to the tile and than to extend them on the both sides.
And yes, I glue small pieces of hardwood which do not let to move the regular boards. Hope it helps.
I done this job just one time in my professional life. Nobody installs this staff after the tile installation. It was customer's designer idea.First I cut schluter strip (it has "L" profile) and glue it with hot glue. No any additional secrets, but it really looks nice.
More questions about engineered hardwood flooring installation on concrete? I am here to help you!
I'm intrigued with your application of the Schluter strip. Can you provide more details on how you used it? We have marble thresholds against our tile and are abutting the tile with hardwood. I'm assuming I need to remove the marble threshold? I'd love to use the Schluter strips for a smoother transition.
Unfortunately being in australia they don't have that glue available here so they are basically making hard now as I may have to seal the floor money I hadn't budgeted for the job as no adhesives for this application have a moisture barrier included but will be calling them to double check this as I don't want to lay the floor and have it come up due to moisture
Thank you for making this GREAT video. You glue technique is masterful. I'm a do it yourself guy who made the mistake of wearing shorts his first time. Getting the glue off my legs was the equivalent of wax hair removal and resulted in a trip to the ER a few days later when the area swelled due to allergic reaction (ugh).
I bought Bruce three inch planks but felt the sum total of all the bowed pieces in the boxes was too many. Do you just toss them or force them down with heavy weight? I cringe suggesting the later but have to ask. I ended up cutting portions at the ends of those planks that were small enough in length where there was no bow and used them for end pieces, tossing the leftover material. Practical but felt painful to waste so much.
I have a few installed planks on the middle of the floor that I need to replace thanks to a leaky aquarium that caused water damage. The only videos I have found involve replacing non-engineered hardwood on plywood. They show cutting the planks up into sections with a circular saw and then popping the pieces out. Am leery I'll accidentally grind the blade into concrete but also concerned that if I don't cut deep enough into wood, nothing is going to pop out. How have you done it?
Please find my videos about floor repair and you'll see how to remove and install planks. For example: "Hardwood Floor Repair by Radeco Hardwood Flooring Vancouver Ltd."
I installed the metal shlutter because of the designer's idea. Bostik TKO doesn't provide a water protection. For this purpose there is another product. Please note: before you start your wood installation you should make perfect floor levelling. If you have never done it before I recommend inviting a good specialist for this work and do not save on levelling!!!
Hi nice video but which glue did you use??
Hi Abaid, this is Bostik TKO, now it's Bostik EFA+. Very good glue and not expensive.
Great video. How is the concrete floor prepped prior to installation? Is a sealant needed for a second floor concrete floor (above garage)? How do you feel about combined adhesive and moisture control products such as Titebond 771 or Roberts R1530?
My installer is planning on using RedGard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane (Model# LQWAF3) as water proofing membrane spread with a roller on 2nd floor concrete slab. According to the manufacturer, RedGard can be used as a slab-on-grade moisture vapor barrier under all types of floor coverings.
He will then install flooring with Roberts Model 1407-1 Engineered Wood Glue Adhesive. Does this seem the best way to do it? Thanks!
I have never used material you mentioned in your post. Crack prevention membrane is better to use for the tile, not for hardwood, so it is not necessary in your case.
Here is the most important thing:
Your floor adhesive and moisture protection material MUST be from ONE brand company. It can give you guarantees that glue will not unsticking from the moisture protection in the future.
Good luck in your project!
Looks like kenwood Sanderson, glued with Bostik TKO, but you should really use 2 inch blue tape
I wish to have that type of the glue here in Ghana. I am looking for some to buy.
I learned a lot from the video. Thankd
You are welcome! If you do not find same glue, you can ask your local hardwood floor installers for the local's brand.
First of all it is engineered floor. This type of hardwood has low expansion that's why many people like it!
The second one I installed rift quoter boards. They have expansion only up and down.
The third one - the connection of material was perpendicular to the tile.
That's it!
Hope it helps
I'm installing unfinished 3/4" x 3-1/4" red oak engineered over a mudded slab. I am using a moisture barrier glue. I have a couple cracks that are in a couple places throughout the room. They don't put the floor out of level but should they be filled? if so what with?
Hi Jeff, you have to remove mud with a grinder first, fill up cracks, make subfloor level and after that start installation.
MrYoucandoityourself thanks for your response. What product do you recommend for filling the cracks?
I am using caulk with silicone.There are all info and links in the description.
Find my videos about leveling, there are links in the description. Thanks.
is there an gudeline on how soon the glue should be in the bucket? does they dry out or won't work anymore?
Just example.
What a GREAT video! But, is there no need for an expension gap there against the tiles (near the schuler strip) ? I always wonder... Will do this myself next week so would appreciate feedback :-)
This is by far the clearest instruction vid on youtube for this! Thanks!
You are a glue master! Great video going over many important details. Thank you!
Thank you very much!
Hi there, how important is it to acclimate the planks? My installer had the floor delivered one day and then installed the next. 8 months later I'm having serious "crackling" problem. Is there any relation between the two? The floor is an engineered floating hardwood floor. /Thanks
If you have floor cracking in a short period of installation it can be related to the hardwood floor installer mistakes, but not in several month! Your cracks have another reasons.
Should you put moisture barrier before putting glue in the concrete?
Hi David,for ground floor for sure, but if high humidity always - you can do only floating floor installation or vinyl.
Thank you for the wonderful review about my "Engineered Hardwood Flooring Installation on Concrete" and good luck with your hardwood ideas!
Can you do floating on concrete or you have to use glue for moisture !???
Hi, we have 3 tipe of installation -nail down, glue down and floating floor. For floating floor on concrete you have to use underlament only. Glue, for glue down installation.
Yes, I use TKO here and for the best quality of work I use yellow tape. (Blue tape I use for cheap floor)
great video, I attempted to install a glued down by myself and got glue everywhere, so I hired pro like yourself
+Anthony Cano Thank you for the warm comment!
What type of trowel did you use? Measurement-wise?
+Jennifer Hoang For each type of glue you can find instruction on the bucket. It shows all sizes of trowels you need to use. The trowel in this video - 1/4 x 1/4.
Mr You Can Do it Yourself! I have loved watching your videos and have subscribed to your channel. On a couple of them you mention that you can sharpen the Bullit tool and other blades yourself. How do you do it? The Bullit I bought does get dull - and the honing stone they give you doesn't seem to renew the original sharpness. Thanks!
My living room has hardiebacker board, can I install engineers wood floor on top of that?
Yes, but only floating floor.
+MrYoucandoityourself Can you tell more details why can't you glue to hardiebacker? My floor has hydronic heat and hardiebacker on top.
Ask the supplier who sells this stuff.
1. What kind of subfloor is under your hardwood?
2. If you gonna install hardwood with glue-down technique you must remove epoxy from the concrete: grinding or use special removing.
3. On the another half of room you should install the same kind of hardwood. If you installed it few years ago it would be very difficult to find in the stores.
4 It is very difficult to give any recommendations online. Please apply to professionals in your city. Usually, any estimate is for free. Ask several people
hello love your videos very informative. just a question on gluing onto concrete I am wanting to glue a solid hardwood to cement slab but was wondering about moisture. the slab or house is about 25 years old and had carpet no visible sings of moisture do i still have to test it for moisture? also it's a 3/4 inch hardwood do i use a 3/8 expansion gap on the ends? Jake.
Hi my friend, very good questions!
1. Moisture you can't check by your ayes. Need to find moister meter or invite professional with this tool.
2.3/4 -is not easy glue to the concrete sub floor, because this floor for nail down, and boards not straight, you have to use clamps. If you don't have experiences - you will die.
3.Yes you have to have a gap, not less than 1/4, because solid wood very expended.
Good luck!
Good professional way to spread the glue,but not the way you undercut the trim I would have use professional CRAIN undercut saw
This video is very old. I use 825 Heavy Duty Crain Jump Saw more than one year. I love this tool!
Today was my first attempt at using adhesive on concrete to glue down Cali Bamboo flooring. I'm sad to say that I failed epically. I poured out enough adhesive to do 3 rows of flooring. I only got 3 planks down before panic set in and I started pulling up the planks I set down. It was chaotic to say the least. I used mineral spirits for the cleanup. My question is; since mineral spirits is oil based, do I have to scrape the floor again before I fail at my second attempt? I wish I had paid closer attention to these videos before I started pouring the adhesive. Thank you in advance for any and all advice you can throw my way. By the way, I'm using Bostik Wood Grip Plus on concrete with Cali Bamboo flooring.
Pathetically yours,
A HUGE idiot
Hi, all mineral oil you have to grinding out before apply glue again. Also, the easiest way to remove dry glue from the concrete subfloor- use scraper.
If you apply glue and doing installation and glue getting dry, don’t worry. Installed part of floor you can leave, dry glue remove with scraper then apply glue again and follow installation. Very simple. Don’t apply all the way if glue dry so fast . Just do it part by part. Thanks!
Yes, it is true...
Thanks for comment
Did you level the floor first?...
Rocky Daniel Yes, sure!
+MrYoucandoityourself lol!
Dont say Level, say Flat. 1/8th variance over 6 feet
I just recently got some experience with making video. Anyway,Thank you for your advice.
Excellent tutorial! Well done and nice work!
Thanks!
Is this upstairs? How come you didn't seal the floor first?
This is main floor. All necessary preparation done before installation.
If you put any kind of sealant on the floor it will cause problem with the glue adhering properly. You need to lay on fresh concrete or sand old concrete first if you have anything that will prevent the glue from sticking. You can test it with water, If it sinks in you're good to go, if it sits on the top you have to sand off the material that is stopping the water first.
Yeah it has a moisture retarder according to their website but wouldn't know how good that is and then there is vapor lock which is another product but both aren't available here in Aus. This is so annoying as this is the only part I'm unsure on the rest is pretty easily done.
I notice you do not ever use a roller to press down the wood onto the glue. I have seen you kick it and slam it with a mallet, I guess that does the same? The hardwood installations instructions that came with my wood recommend a roller, and some of the installation already completed has a hollow sound, although most sounds solid. I am using the glue manufacturer recommended 1/4"x1/4" trowel. Do you recommend I roll it?
I do not recommend anything. I just show how I install hardwood and laminate floor. I am doing it every day for more then 10 years.
There are instructions on each bucket of glue: for what hardwood it is and which trowel to use.
You did this so effortlessly!!! I'm jealous. I would have that glue all over everything.
When I done same job for the first time in my life, the glue was everywhere (even in my hair!). I am doing this work for more than 10 years, that's why it is so easily for me. I am sure you can do something else and much better than me!
Thank you for watching my videos!
Satisfying. 💪🏽🇺🇸
Thanks!
Masking tape is a great tool in hardwood glue-down installation! I never used it for low quality of material and do not suggest you do it :)
I am impressed!
+Ojeramup12 Thanks!
Great tips.
Thanks for liking my video! You can find an answer to your question in my video "Blades and Trowel Preparation for Wood Floor Installation" (just copy and paste this title in the search window on youtube and you'll find it easily). For sharping I use a rasp (a file?). English is my second language and I am not sure it is right name for this tool or not. Any more questions? Please feel free!
berapa ya harganya per meter..
Installation or floor material?
Very nice
BUT... I cringed when you threw the hot-glue-gun right on the wood... I would be afraid it'll leak on the finish..
why put soooooo much glue and then have to drive it all the way down and fight it
Have you ever install hardwood floor with glue-down technique? First take some courses and learn how to do it. You'll get all answers to your questions.
yes I have installed floors before and gluedown too senor but the way you do it is not very efficiant
The more people - the more techniques (and habits). Just share your skills here on youtube and you'll know what people think about it. Real professionals always happy to know more.
Would have appreciated it if you talked and told us what you were doing instead of just showing us. I would have understood more.
English is my second language and it is hard to talk. I do what I can do.
Good video but the flying caption and weird lens filter is really annoying... would have been an excellent video. Stick to basics please.
Oh no! Masking tape to keep boards tight. Folks. Don't do it. Chances are very good it will pull the finish off. Not a bad video, but I'd be more inclined to rent a power jamb saw for undercutting. We didn't see a closeup of the finished work. Once again chances are ...good it doesn't provide as clean a cut as a power jamb saw...Looks lie a nice floor prep job!
Who ever picked that floor and liked it must of been passed or sick .
Up to you. Many people like this type of installation.
Why are you showing everybody the trade secrets you're very good but we got to make a living at this bro I've been doing it for 13 years
There are lots of guys who want to learn. I've been working as a floor installer for 12 years and I remember that nobody wanted help me when I started working. That's why I share my experience here today.
MrYoucandoityourself
That's a good guy. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I wish you success.
Thanks a lot!
Way to complicated
Hi Ahmed, for me it’s easy.
That's some ugly flooring.
Thanks for your opinion!