And there was me, thinking you were going to mill the timber on a milling machine, but no, you mill the timber with an ingenious method using a chainsaw. I suppose, in years gone by, timber was probably cut by hand over a saw pit. Interesting video Phil. Thanks
I'm looking forward to it all being dry enough to use. The inside of the tent gets very warm even in winter, so it will be ready to use before I am ready to use it.
Wow Phil, even the off cut looks gorgeous, I can't wait to see Jabiru finished and all decked out for the ball, she's gunna look beautiful mate, thanks heaps. Seeya Rob
Hi Phil, good to see you’re back and you’re doing more on jabiru. Keep up the good work. Love your videos Cliff from Logan city Queensland, Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
Hi Phil, I am enjoying your videos immensely as I have a 1930 Williams 27’ carvel planked launch that like your Jabiru has been in a shed for the last 10 years. I would like to treat the hull as you intend to do on J. What are you going to do about rain water on the inside of the hull. I thought penetrating epoxy followed by paint for UV protection might be a solution as I want my boat to be open without a cabin.
I saw your comment a week or so ago and lost it. Now it has reappeared, I'll answer immediately. What you are suggesting sounds good. I think you will have be very thorough with paint removal on the inside before you use the penetrating epoxy, or it could be a wasted effort. I'm not going down that path as the inside of Jabiru is very messy. I'm going to stop the rain water getting in and use lots of paint as well. I served my apprentceship at AG Williams in Drummoyne. Is your from AG's? I'd love to see a photo.
Thanks for getting back to me Phil. Yes Sea Sprite was built by AG Williams at Drummoyne. I was told that AG built the launch for his retirement around Port Stephens (I think). Her next owner steamed her to Brisbane and used her on Moreton Bay. The chap I purchased her from steamed her to Keppel Bay and used her mainly around GKI. I moved her down to the South Arm of the Clarence River to share with my father. Unfortunately he had her moored under a willow tree where ants eventually almost completely destroyed her cabin and top sides. I have removed all of the decks and cabin and plan to use her as an open launch. One of her distinctive characteristics was that she left almost no wake when steaming. I cannot seem to add a photo to this reply. If you send me a contact email address I will forward some on to you.
Thank you, some photos would be great. I'm excited to see them. Best email is kavbal2013@gmail.com. AG was long gone by the time I started in 1960. I worked for his sons, Alan, Sid and Stan. Great people and very knowledgeable.
A bolt through the chain bar. There is a 2' block which holds the vertical cheeks and this gives plenty of strength to hold the bar steady. Plenty of UA-cam videos describing this system.
I might have to try this chainsaw milling method. I have one of those "Alaskan" chainsaw mills, but it seems wonky as hell. Do you use a specialized ripping chain, or just a standard one? On a side note, I looked up silky oak, and its name is actually a misnomer, since its not even in the Quercus genus and therefore not a true oak. However, given the pictures you showed, the wood looks almost like a combination of beech and white oak, and its bark is certainly very oak like.
And there was me, thinking you were going to mill the timber on a milling machine, but no, you mill the timber with an ingenious method using a chainsaw. I suppose, in years gone by, timber was probably cut by hand over a saw pit. Interesting video Phil. Thanks
I'm looking forward to it all being dry enough to use. The inside of the tent gets very warm even in winter, so it will be ready to use before I am ready to use it.
Thanks
Hi Phil, enjoy your progress and videos from South Africa 😊🙏👌
Thanks Len. Glad you like it. It's good to get feedback.
🙏😊
brilliant thanks, simple and very effective
No worries!
That was an interesting video about the chainsaw milling, thanks Phil
Glad you enjoyed it
Wow Phil, even the off cut looks gorgeous, I can't wait to see Jabiru finished and all decked out for the ball, she's gunna look beautiful mate, thanks heaps. Seeya Rob
I'm looking forward to that as well.
Always nice to lay up timber and let it dry out and season.
Even slower than watching grass grow.
Hi Phil, good to see you’re back and you’re doing more on jabiru. Keep up the good work. Love your videos Cliff from Logan city Queensland, Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
Thanks Cliff. Appreciate yopur comments.
Thanks for the video!
My pleasure,
Hi Phil, I am enjoying your videos immensely as I have a 1930 Williams 27’ carvel planked launch that like your Jabiru has been in a shed for the last 10 years. I would like to treat the hull as you intend to do on J. What are you going to do about rain water on the inside of the hull. I thought penetrating epoxy followed by paint for UV protection might be a solution as I want my boat to be open without a cabin.
I saw your comment a week or so ago and lost it. Now it has reappeared, I'll answer immediately. What you are suggesting sounds good. I think you will have be very thorough with paint removal on the inside before you use the penetrating epoxy, or it could be a wasted effort. I'm not going down that path as the inside of Jabiru is very messy. I'm going to stop the rain water getting in and use lots of paint as well. I served my apprentceship at AG Williams in Drummoyne. Is your from AG's? I'd love to see a photo.
Thanks for getting back to me Phil. Yes Sea Sprite was built by AG Williams at Drummoyne. I was told that AG built the launch for his retirement around Port Stephens (I think). Her next owner steamed her to Brisbane and used her on Moreton Bay. The chap I purchased her from steamed her to Keppel Bay and used her mainly around GKI. I moved her down to the South Arm of the Clarence River to share with my father. Unfortunately he had her moored under a willow tree where ants eventually almost completely destroyed her cabin and top sides. I have removed all of the decks and cabin and plan to use her as an open launch. One of her distinctive characteristics was that she left almost no wake when steaming. I cannot seem to add a photo to this reply. If you send me a contact email address I will forward some on to you.
Thank you, some photos would be great. I'm excited to see them. Best email is kavbal2013@gmail.com. AG was long gone by the time I started in 1960. I worked for his sons, Alan, Sid and Stan. Great people and very knowledgeable.
Phil, how did you hinge the chainsaw to the sliding block/fence?
A bolt through the chain bar. There is a 2' block which holds the vertical cheeks and this gives plenty of strength to hold the bar steady. Plenty of UA-cam videos describing this system.
I might have to try this chainsaw milling method. I have one of those "Alaskan" chainsaw mills, but it seems wonky as hell. Do you use a specialized ripping chain, or just a standard one? On a side note, I looked up silky oak, and its name is actually a misnomer, since its not even in the Quercus genus and therefore not a true oak. However, given the pictures you showed, the wood looks almost like a combination of beech and white oak, and its bark is certainly very oak like.
Just a standard chain. The cut was slow so maybe that is why.
How often are you sharpening your chainsaws?
Started with a new chain and didn't have to change it.