Tshirt Week With TomKat Stitchery: Fabric and Fitting
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Today is all about fabrics and fitting your t-shirts! As always, let me know if you have any questions!
What I’m wearing:
Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse (affiliate link): www.lovenotion...
Patterns that I’ll be using:
Pamela’s Patterns Perfect T-shirt (plus expansion pattern): pamelaspattern...
Love Notions Classic T-Shirt (affiliate link): www.lovenotion...
Itch To Stitch Idyllwild T-shirt (affiliate link): itch-to-stitch...
Seamwork Patterns Elli Henley: www.seamwork.c...
Also mentioned:
Here is a list of a few of my favorite online shops. They all have great knit fabric options:
Blackbird Fabric: www.blackbirdf...
Stylemaker Fabric: stylemakerfabr...
Emma One Sock: www.emmaonesoc...
Stonemountain and Daughter: www.stonemount...
Minerva: www.minervacra...
The Fabric Store (they don’t have as many knits, but what they do have is pretty great): thefabricstore...
The SewKeyse tapes I use can be found here:
1/2 “ Woven stay tape: www.amazon.com...
1” Double Sided Tape: www.amazon.com...
Don’t forget to follow me on social media so you don’t miss a thing!
Blog: www.tomkatstitc...
Instagram: / tomkatstitcherycarmel
Facebook: / tomkatstitcherycarmel
Email: tomkatstitchery@gmail.com
Pinterest: / tomkatstitchery
So much information - Thank you, Whitney! Your vlogs are now called 'Lock-Down Sewing School' in my house. Take care and stay safe.
😂 I love it!
Add a pocket to your bleached shirt, beautiful color.
That’s a good idea as well!
Nice that you mentioned a NZ store, thank u
My pleasure! It’s one of my absolute favorites!
Thank you talking about the fabric and supplies for T-shirt making and I will try the same pattern with different fabric then I will choose the best for me
Oh good!
Wonderful information as usual, thank you!! I am wondering whether you have bought knits from Girl Charlie and whether you think the quality is good? I have four women in the house to sew for and Girl Charlie have good prices!!
BTW Merino wool was developed in Australia in the late 1700's-early1800's by Governor Macarthur and more importantly his wife Elizabeth (as he was away for years) did a breeding programme to develop the original Spanish Merino to a sheep that could survive and thrive in the conditions here that are so very different to the United Kingdom. Sheep came over with the convict ships, along with other domesticated animals, rabbits and foxes have become a huge problem! Cotton and flax were grown with mixed success so as to weave fabric. The country's wealth came off of the sheeps back is the phrase here. My grandfather was a wool classer before WW2. There are magnificent buildings in many ports around Australia, especially here in Sydney where grandpa worked, that were wool wharehouses, that have been converted to apartments and shopping centres etc. After Grandpa retired he started weaving, on looms he built, with wool that nana spun, they also did vegetable dying of it too. Nana and my mum knitted and crocheted the wool. I did spin a ball once when I was about 7/8 years old. It was fun carding and sorting the wool with him. Anyhoo, that's enough from me!!!! lol
Umm, this is an amazing history!!! What a fantastic story! You come from a long line of fiber lovers.
As far as Girl Charlee, I think for the price that you can get some good stuff. Their cotton spandex isn’t as thick as the nicer stuff, but I have shopped from them and continue to do so!
@@TomKatStitchery fiber keeps the heart pumping!! LOL thank you for the heads up on Girl Charlie xxx
Very informative. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Whitney, I absolutely love your videos. Your authenticity makes me want to sew more and wear each garment with pride. This video is the best! Thank you!
What a lovely thing to hear! I’m so glad you’re enjoying the channel!
Great info! Thanks!
My pleasure!
Thank you, another great video, added to my sewing playlist. So many of your videos have great tips, construction, and fitting help, I refer to them often! Sending a hug from a few thousand miles away! 🙂
I love this!
That was a fantastic video! I especially like the explanation of the alterations. That was really helpful! Thank you so much!
I’m so glad!
Great tips, thanks! Looking forward to tomorrow.
Oh good!
Team cotton/spandex here. I still have double needle tunneling when using stay tape and double needle. Using Knit and Stable. May try your brand. Great tip about not removing paper tape until after surging as my Babylock also does not like sewing over once tape is removed. Thank you!!!!❤️🌵❤️🌵
Let me know how it goes. I don’t normally sew with a twin needle, so I’d like to hear how it goes!
This was so informative!!! Because of you I am starting liking this quarantine business 😂 I am tall but skinny and I could never figure out my “batwing problems”. I am so looking forward to try. Thank you so much. T shirt week is definitely a fave of mine.
I’m so glad!!! I hope this helps!
I am loving this so far!! Since we a measurement twins I am excited to try your fitting tips. About your bleached top. Have you seen @winmichele on IG recent Seamwork Bo? She spray bleached her fabric with a leaf. Maybe you can create a pattern on your shirt too so it can be worn and not relegated to the housework pile. 😊
I haven’t seen that one, but I do follow her. I’ll go have a look!
Hi Whitney, Thanks for a very informative video. I will see you next time. Take care and God Bless.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Nice explanation about fabric. Thanks!
My pleasure!
Amazing video. I was noticing a problem with my shirt's fabric creeping into the sleeve area just yesterday. I'm apparently narrow across the front as well as through the shoulder. Thank you so much for the information and for telling us how to fix it. You're a jewel! I, too, love the longer videos.
I’m so glad some of the info was helpful!
The impromptu sewalongs are just fine! I just pop it on and go sew something with you.
I love that!
Thanks for sharing your experience with fabric and fitting! Very helpful 😀
I’m so glad!
super Great explanation on fabric and alteration, very helpful.
I’m so glad!
Excellent, ordering the tape today for hemming. Looking forward to the next installment
Great!
Tx for tips.
My pleasure!
thanks again for another great video! and I don't mind the longer videos at all!
Oh good! Glad you’re enjoying them!
Morning Whitney, really enjoying tee shirt week. I can relate to all you said about the petite adjustments, I fit into this category at 5.3. In RTW there’s always way to much fabric and armcye. Thank you stay safe Val🇨🇦🇬🇧❤️
I mean at the neckline and upper bust. 💕
I’m so glad this was helpful!
Great tips. I pre-fold my hem before sewing by using the edge of that hem tape to iron in the crease while the paper is still on. Saves a measurement step.
That’s a great idea!
Brilliant, thank you so much, really helpful 😊
I’m so glad!
I can't look at anything with bleach, as just the sight of it ruins whatever I have on. It truly is wicked , isn't it ? I have a couple Babylock one with cover stitch, however I have never used it. Instead I bought a Juki MCS1500, it's a great little cover stitch machine. It is very reasonably priced and very solid. Thank you for all the great tips. You've encouraged me to start T-shirts this week. Stay safe.
I’m so glad you’ll be joining along!
Thanks, Whitney. I especially found the fabric segment helpful! I struggle buying knits on-line :(
I’m so glad! Buying fabric online can definitely be a bit tricky. The key is finding a few fabric stores you love and whose quality (and descriptions) you can trust!
When seaming the t-shirts do you use both needles in your serger? Do you use 2 or 1 needles when serging edges on wovens? Enjoying the t-shirt week. Lots of good tips as usual. Thank you.👍
I use the 4 thread serging for both my knit seams and for my edges on wovens (mostly because I’m too lazy to change it to 3 thread for my wovens).
Thanks for a lot of very useful practical advise! I should just take the hurdle and start sewing with knits. Have sewn pretty complex/involved woven garments. Find myself circling around the knits endlessly. Makes no sense, doesn’t it. Really helps looking over your shoulder. 💕
It’s just one of things. Sewing knits is different than sewing wovens, but it’s not harder. You’ll be hooked after your first t-shirt 😉.
TomKat Stitchery You could right. Thank you 💕
So interesting and informative 👌🏻😃
I’m so glad!
Great tips. Thanks
My pleasure!
Great tips. Thank you.
My pleasure!
...so create a bleached wicking effect in that great fitting tee. How?: bucket of water & 1/8 cup bleach, dip whole Tee for two seconds. Lift out of solution. Add 1/4 c bleach, dip 1/3 of hem for two seconds. Lift. Dip just 2” of hem for five seconds. Quickly rinse. Do all of this inside the washer with a bucket. Try it. The Tee looks like a perfect fit. Dye it again if you want another color. ~ L
Well, this sounds like a ton of fun! Can I pass this along on the channel?
Thank you so much for this series, there are so many hints and tips. I was particularly interested in how you fit your t-shirts as I have the same issues, very narrow shoulders, big bust, which I have been trying so hard to find a solution for. Would this method of going from small to m edium after the armsyce work for woven fabrics? Also if you have time would you please show us how to add a dart to a t-shirt, where there isn’t one on the pattern?
Wovens are a little more difficult as you don’t have the stretch factor to help with fitting. However, if you measure you new armscye and the original one and they are within 1/4” of each other, it could work! To add a dart where there isn’t one, it’s just a matter of doing an FBA on the pattern. Hold the pattern up to your body to mark you apex and then do an FBA per normal!
TomKat Stitchery thank you so much for that. I haven’t plucked up the courage to do an FBA yet, but will have plenty of time to practice over the coming weeks 😬. Please can I ask you just one more question? The alterations I think I need to do on most patterns are narrow shoulder, petite fitting and FBA. Which order would you recommend I do them in please Whitney?
Sara G I would start at the top and work down, so narrow shoulder, petite and then FBA.
Thank you Whitney, it is so hard to find this information when teaching yourself, and I have made so many garments that I haven’t been happy with the fit of in the upper part, that I was just about to reluctantly give up. I really appreciate your invaluable help and am all fired up to try again xx
Sara G I’m so glad! Let me know how it goes!
Love your videos. Do you ever do the pivot method for grading between sizes like I've seen Nancy Zieman do? I'm learning that in t-shirts I need to grade from one size in the shoulders to 2 or 3 sizes down in the bust and am not confident enough to mess with the sleeve pattern pieces. So I'm starting to play with pivoting in at the underarm. Just wondering if you did one more than the other or had any thoughts. Thanks!
While I have done the pivot method for grading, I tend to do less grading between sizes and more full bust adjustments/added waist width to get to where I need to be while still keeping the neckline/shoulders the correct size.
Hello Whitney, I have been sewing for a very long time but wanted to try Garment sewing. I have been watching a lot of vlogs and taking a few online classes. I had a questions regarding why you aren't doing the fba if you see that you are having the fitting issues? For people like myself whom are newer to the garment sewing world are watching a vlog about "fitting" and when you put on the grey t-shirt I noticed the pulling I was wondering why it looked that way. If you have the ability to make your own clothes, don't you want them to look the best they can be that is why you make them and not buy ready to wear? It shows people like myself that we all have different body shapes and if you have an adjustment that needs to be made...you make it. If you are comfortable with it...that's ok, maybe just show a t-shirt that fits correctly and one that doesn't 🤷🏾♀️. Since we are watching to learn to fix the issue. Just my opinion. Thank you
Hello! While I do have a video on 3 ways to do a dartless FBA on knit tops, I honestly rarely do them. When an FBA is made on a top without darts, you are adding width to the entire front of the shirt. While this definitely helps add width throughout the bust where it is needed, it also adds width throughout the midsection, where I don’t always want it. I usually pick the wrinkles in the armpit over the added width in the body, especially in this Pamela’s Pattern where there is already ample midsection room. I agree that one of the best things about garment construction is the ability to make clothes that fit us much better than the ready to wear counterparts. However, over fitting can also be a real problem. I think knowing when to stop with fitting adjustments is just as important as tweaking patterns for your own body. I hope this helps! I don’t strive for perfection in my handmade closet, but for a delicate balance where good fitting garments meet with an enjoyable creative process!
First thing before I forget, I don’t mind longer videos, especially right now ( COVID19) with isolation. Second your tips were fantastic. I stopped the video ran and tried on RTW items, and those were the exact areas of fitting problems! I could take a 1” pinch vertically in the center of my tops, and about 1/2” horizontally in the armseye. Amazing such a great tip. If my shoulders were forward do you think I should do that first?
Yes. Do the forward shoulder first and then the others!
Regarding fitting, have you ever used the Swedish paper (the kind that is similar to fabric) to adjust fit instead of using fabric? If so, do you find the fit to be different using the paper than using fabric? Does it differ when fitting a pattern that is for a knit versus a woven? Hope this makes sense. Thanks for the tutorial!
I have not used the Swedish Tracing paper. However, I would think it would be somewhat similar to doing a tissue fitting. There are certain things you have to take into account for a knit pattern. Palmer/Pletsch has three really great tissue fitting classes on BluPrint and I believe BluPrint is currently free until the 9th!
TomKat Stitchery thanks for the response. I’ll check out Bluprint, but nothing bests your tutorials. Your explanations are spot-on and easy to understand. Have a great spring break week! Our schools are back in session as of today. We won’t be going back to the physical buildings. E-learning through the end of the year. Thank goodness my Son is 23 and a senior in college. My tutoring days are gone. Lol
My dog was in terror of the storms last night. I believe she was left in a flooded house when the family evacuated so she wants to run outside and hide. She will tear the house down if she gets the chance. She is that afraid.
That breaks my heart! Poor baby!!!
Have you tried a thunderstorm coat? My niece’s dog is like that, she hides in the bathtub. Since she has the coat and calming drops, they are herbal, she does pretty well. It used to be terrible. I had her sister, a litter ate and thunder and July 4th didn’t bother her. It’s strange how some dogs are more sensitive. Poor darling!
I bought the thunder shirt and she got out of it. This last rainstorm took over 24 hours for her to get over. I am taking her to the vet tomorrow before the next line of storms come in Friday. I usually put her leash on her and over my arm and it helps but not this time. She's a rescue so I know she had some bad times before she came to run my life so we will work at fixing it.
"ITY" stands for "Interlock Twist Yarn". :+)
Would you be able to tie dye the blue one?? I've done that with several "oops" moment clothing items.
Nice instructional video with great tips!!
Have a wonderful week! :+)
I thought about that. I could do a reverse tie dye with a bleach solution! It might be worth a try.
Yes that would be very “Boho” chic!
Very informative video. I will never need a full bust adjustment, Haha but all the other info was helpful. Are you going to make the Audrey top? I am, soon as a fabric order arrives.
I’m glad you enjoyed it! The Audrey top is adorable. I am very tempted, but have been very bad with pattern purchases recently and am trying to reign it in a bit 😬.
Hi Whitney, an excellent vlog. One thing...I did not hear you mention the word "jersey" yet when I went over to Stylemaker fabrics all knits seem to have that word attached. what about scuba knits?
I’m sorry. All the fabrics I mentioned are jerseys. That term refers to the way it was knitted. Scuba is a polyester and is not breathable at all. It’s fine for dresses, jackets and skirts that call for a medium to heavy weight knit, but I wouldn’t do a t-shirt in scuba.
Hi Whitney, I have a request a question and an offer. Yikes! Request: could you whip through that adjustment in reverse? For tall, big back and fat armpits? I don’t think my pits look chubby, but I have a problem with tight upper sleeves. I am tired of redrafting sleeves and there new homes, but an adjustment worries me it is big, say like the one you did was good size. I’m afraid of puckering or gaping or ruining my new shirt. Ok and question is: I’m in the process of doing a square neckline, the pattern is treating like a standard facing, instead of mitering it,(woven pattern) , I am using a knit. I like your analogy if 2 V-necks, what would you recommend? The offer: I have a Janome Cover Pro 900 I have only used a handful of times I would be happy to work out a good deal with you. It is really basically brand new. Maybe email me if/when you’d be interested. I’m in no rush if you want it at some point. southwell.mary@yahoo.com Oh and Dash, my Cavalier, walks on every pattern as a rule, and prefers to sleep on fabric exclusively. Ok, I lied he sleeps on my head at night hehe. (he loves Gidget btw🐶) shines and wags when she comes on.
Oh, you have a boy cavalier!!! I love his picture in your avatar. He is so pretty (and Gidget also sleeps on my head at night 😂). As far as fitting. Do you have an issue with the top of the sleeve being tight or the armhole being too tight (digging into your armpit). Depending on your answer, will be a different alteration ( both easy!). I’m doing a tutorial for a knit square neckline that uses a mitered neckband (instead of a facing). It’s going up on Friday so maybe that one will help! I might be very interested in your coverstitch machine. I’ll send you an email!
TomKat Stitchery WOW thanks for the thoughtful answers! And you’re so swamped right now. I tend to leave you tubers etc closed ended questions to be considerate but these things were darn important. 1)Anyway, I will look forward to seeing your technique on the square neckline; for now I’ll pause that project and hit my pile from another direction. 2) The armhole is too tight and pulls the sleeve up to my pit. I’m pretty average for my bust but I did measure for a bust cup pattern last week and I was right on the line between the b and c, so I went with the c so it wouldn’t be too small. That top I did with dbp, it was a woven pattern, with a dart. I always do the darts because I like the way they look. My point is, it’s so stretchy there isn’t a problem. And of course not could have been an accidental fba ? Anyway the one before that was with a hatchi and I forgot it doesn’t stretch much and I ended up putting a gusset in the armpit instead of throwing it in the trash. Yuck🙈 I love the fabric too much for that. Actually I never throw them, garments evolve usually and I mostly make them look good in the end. As far as the cover stitcher, yes I’ll save it for you. I want to get an industrial one, we’ll see. I have had a problem with tunneling on the Janome, with all of dials at a 1. Plus stabilizing with heat & bond or the wash out kind. It’s weird. It runs really well. I am going to have it looked at. I’m in the process of starting a sewing machine rescue, like an animal shelter. Seriously, it’s happened organically, and I’m loving it. I’ve also lucked into a gig training and hopefully working part time at home doing repairs once I’m proficient. It’s for a major brand so I’m super excited. The woman I’m going to train with said she’d look at it. I’ll put the money I get for the Janome toward the the industrial one. I had a Pfaff convertible and I returned it. That’s why I decided you better have mine if you want it, ugh. What a pain. Yes, so keep me posted, we can regroup when quarantine is over-she can’t take in any repairs, the company has halted them. I wouldn’t want to send you the machine until I am positive it’s not defective. Don’t worry, I’m just neurotic when it comes to my machines, and I’m really hard on them I think, (not the sergers) yet I expect them to perform perfectly anyway. Ultimately I should get one like yours, but the oil under it freaks me out. There you go, another incredibly verbose answer. I just had my first Cavalier I ever had, die at 14.5 years last week with no major heart problem. She was a Blenheim named Sophie. I love that Gidget is a part of your show! She is a total honey-pie-gorgeous-girl. Their faces are ridiculous. She had that spurned look they tend to get, yesterday I think it was, I cracked up. You said something she didn’t approve of, I think about the thunderstorm. Haha. If I get a channel going, Dash will definitely be in the videos. Sorry, one more thing-you seem like you came from a broadcasting background, like fresh off the Today show. Not to mention your sewing prowess, I was hooked after the leather jacket, haven’t missed a video since-and seen most of the back library. You’re an asset in my sewing life, no doubt about it! Thanks again Whitney👚
I love your business partner. I hope you allow you to manage you properly.
😂 she is the best of the best when it comes to co-workers!
😀
❤️
Check out @rosegardenln on Instagram for ideas for your bleach stained shirt. She has tutorials on how to bleach dye with a spray bottle and you could do something like that and make it a purposeful tie dye.
Ooh!! Thank you!
Hi Whitney. I really like your channel. You are so nice.
I like the name of your channel. How did you come up with the name.
Thank you again.
I’m so glad you’re enjoying the channel! TomKat Stitchery was the name of my alterations and custom sewing business that I ran until the summer of 2018. TomKat is a combination of my twins’ names!
TomKat Stitchery I thought that was how you came up with the name but I didn’t know you had twins. How clever!👍🏾 Again, I really enjoy your channel. You are so real and a pleasure to watch. I watch you almost everyday (expect Saturdays because I observe the Sabbath). So please, keep doing what you are doing. I appreciate it.
BTW...
Don’t let the haters get to you because in my opinion, your great 👍🏾.
Blessings.
Like2Sew thank you so much! It’s comments like this that warm my heart!