I wish i could meet someone like you and learn all you have to offer. Im a welder but i love learing new things like your art craft. thanks for the video. Take care
don't let these punks get to you Bill, myself and thousands of others appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skills with us. can't wait for the next tutorial!
I then realized the bottom part of the hood was also fiberglass. These cars dont come with sheet metal hoods. I managed to take a scewdriver and pry on the hood for a period of time until it released. The top part got damaged but fixable if i ever want to modify it and make a custom hood out of it. Used the epoxy gue to put the new part and the old squeleton together and turned out real good. Already painted it. Thanks a lot for making such helpful videos
Another instructive video. For the window, make a paper pattern from the original, and cut that out of a flat sheet of perspex. Make a mould out of plaster or concrete (over sand?) of the glass, then use a heat gun to soften the perspex to shape. The mould doesn't have to be very smooth, just put something over ir, to keep from scratching the transparency.
Watching this video made we want to take up working with fibreglass for my hobby projects. You're a real inspiration and an excellent instructor. Thank you for your time and efforts in publishing these tutorials.
Thanks for the note on using breathing protection when sanding CF. I've done a lot of research on the topic of CF and you are the first to mention this very important subject! The vacuum bagging job looks terrific mate!
My aim was to debug the urban myth that you CANNOt hand lay cf. I hoped this would lend guys to commence using this material and then progress into the more advanced methods I show later on in the series. There are also some parts that CAN be simply made without infusion techniques (like the fuel pump cover I showed me making in an earlier film), & which would be much more difficult to make if you ONLY ever though "infusion". Feedback suggests this path has proved helpful & encouraging to many.
The plastic is vacuum bagging plastic which you'll get from any good fibreglass materials supplier. The grey circular piece was the lock collar for the Tee piece which seals it into the bag. Same source.
You make it look easy! FWIW if you want a cheap easy vacuum bag for smaller parts, those vacuum clothing storage bags work very well, just rip out the one way valve rubber and tacky tape in the vacuum hose. The bag is reusable and a lot quicker than tacky taping up a sheet of film then trying to find all the leaks. They also work for resin infusion except they are single use when used like this. Interestingly they appear to be made from a similar material to the vacuum bag film.
love your videos! you should add like the install of the part at the end of the video in some of your videos cause the parts you reproduce looks awesome!
Well, I gotta say (after viewing many of your other videos), you REALLY get a lot accomplished! I would be lucky to do 1/2 of what you do.. "and that was when I was in my teens". Quite inspiring. I'm asking myself "what have I done lately".. Clearly not much. Keep it up. p.s. Lots of good video shots and you do an GR8T job of explaining what you are doing. Thank you. Cheers!
We're currently working out how to shape the clear plastic window. I provided the hinge bolts because it was just so easy to do that as a quick mounting option.
man your amazing i'm new to fiberglassing you've change my hole outlook building motors as a welder bollocks to aluminium too much like hard work. thanks
Jack f/glass is perfectly ok for any car panel. You can see a two piece tailgate I made in my tutorial on split moulds at 9:15. MOST of the car panels I make are f/glass. I only used c/fibre on that tailgate because that was what my son wanted, and it was five times the money and MUCH harder to get a decent finish on. I would RATHER have made it in f/glass.
Trato de mostrar todo lo que pueda para superar la barrera del idioma del mundo - pero al final algunas cosas sólo se puede explicar con palabras. Me alegro de que a pesar de esto todavía se encuentran mis vídeos interesante y alentador. Si alguna vez en Australia caer para una barbacoa!
Double layer reminds me of paddle blades I made with a guy years ago Problem I found with polyester and chop strand when used for automotive is its forever sinking Even painted with generous coats of 2k paint the chop strand prints through later on They say epoxy and woven cloth is the only way but with this said Ive seen expensive aircraft with roving cloth print through on the wing fairings Those super car manufacturers like ferrari must use some special composite Good videos by the way
Steves Projects print through can be dealt with by using high temperature resins (generally they have much better properties than room temperature cure resins), the parts come out of the moulds with some light texture still, but that is then wet sanded down, buffed or clearcoated and wetsanded and buffed - and will stay flat with no surface texture development continuous developing print through (even after sanding it flat) is a sign of a weak and "flexy" resin, generous layer of gel coat will usually help - simply because it is based on vinyl resin - which is tougher than polyester, room temperature epoxies may require an oven bake to finish the reaction properly (most manufacturers suggest post cure anyway), then there are epoxies with limited flex additives added in, sometimes this is desireable in a part - may prevent it from failing or delaminating - like body parts for rally cross cars for instance, which sometimes bump into each other - very rigid parts will break and may shatter - flexy resins will prevent that - but print through there is something you will have to live with
Basically yes. An easy option in making doors is to cut the steel window framing off the factory door you're moulding & refit it back into the new f/g copy - having made a jig to line it up accurately. Put big ribs on all 4 edges of the factory door when moulding it to ensure your copy will be an accurate fit. Bathurst eh... don't know Dave Carter do you Phil... ex BLCC?
could you do a video on a split mould (2 or 3 piece mould with no holes), the lay up and how you go about attaching the pieces together efficiently if you're unable to get inside and add support on the joins? Every video i can find the mould has a hole in so they can add more fibre on the joins on the inside without adding any more size to the part so it will still like its suppose to. Id be grateful if you'd leave a comment if you don't have any projects your able to show this on. Thanks!! Learnt so much from your videos already
I can't really answer you without clearly knowing what it is you're trying to make. Pictures to redlina@bigpond.com would also help. There is no need to carpet bomb my videos with this question as I watch all comments on my channel & respond to them within days.
Making the fibreglass mould should cost around A$75. A fibreglass reproduction from it would cost around the same. A repro in carbon fibre would cost around 4 imes that... say A$300 - 400 depending on how well you can buy the materials.
Without knowing how it's held together I can't really advise you on how to do it. Figure out how they joined it and undo whatever they did. To glue the new skin on just use any two part epoxy glue. Our brand name here in Oz is Araldite. This is how they probably joined your original together,if so you'll have to cut it the epoxy apart - which will be difficult to do without damaging the top skin. Might be easier to get a stock factory steel bonnet from the wreckers & just undrill the spot welds.
thank you so much for your wisdom! I am thinking of making a fiberglass roof for my camper van. i want o have the solar panels slightly sloping towards the edges and the gaps filled with sheet loft insulation. the roof will then be fiberglassed over the top with the panels flush. What do you think of this idea? could i simply add the fiberglass directly to the insulation and panels? i would really appreciate some advice on this!! thanks very much!
Have you seen my series on building a camper trailer in my "Playlist"? I fiberglassed the roof in this episode. You can fiberglass over any semi-rigid surface, but nothing soft that will either bend or soak up too much resin. I would not glass the solar panels in place because if any of them have troubles you might not be able to remove them. Also the more edges you have going around shapes in a roof the greater the likelihood of a leak. So me personally - I would make the roof with a 25mm run off from it's center , form it out of thin plywood or MDF and fiberglass it in one piece - BUT laying into it mounting brackets screwed in place on which to mount the solar panels. That way you can remove/replace them if ever needed, and you have a one piece roof. Extend the fiberglass over the sides like I did to prevent roof leaks. Note you lay the resin & glass FIRST, then TOP COAT or FINISH Coat second... not gelcoat. ua-cam.com/video/hF6hqMPCF-4/v-deo.html PM at Redline Fiberglass if you want to send pics & get more guidance.
That was awesome! will there be any footage of how the window is made(if plastic) or put in place? and a video of it put on the rx? would love to see that =) oh, and how is it mounted to the car? why the hinges instead of hole/pin mounts? And is it a plastic window instead of glass? even lighter! =D
Hey Bill, I love your fiberglassing videos. I watch them religiously almost to the point of obsession admittedly! I can't wait to start laying up a tailgate of my own for a non-racing street car and I was wondering, would it be wise in a structural sense to create one purely from CSM fiberglass as you did with the car bonnet (with some reinforcement), versus the carbon fiber you used here? Would a car bonnet and tailgate share similar structural requirements to allow this? Thanks, Jack
Nice Job, how does the glass fit ? I used cheaper materials when I vacuum bagged my Hovercraft.. I used Painters 4mill plastic instead of "Peel Ply" and I used an old quilted blanket for the breather layer.. Plus "Duct Tape to seal the bag. It worked like a charm... I'm alway Leary of buying materials from a Fiberglass supplier.. They charge more for the simple stuff, they just give it a technical name and jack the price.
hi mate great video could you tell me what plastic you use for the vacuum bagging and what was the grey circular piece inside the plastic that you attached the T piece to? cheers mate
hey at the end you said it probably weighs no more than about 2-3kg at most i was just wondering what the original parts approximate weight was for comparison and what the weight saving is
did you say for the vacuum you just used a fitting on your air compressor? if so, can that be bought at most hardware stores? not sure what places you have there, but would like home depot have it?
A NICE VIDEO ........BUT I WAS WODERING IF YOU CAN SHOW ME ALL YOUR PRODUCT THAT YOU USED FOR ALL THE PROJECT THAT YOU DID. WHAT KIND OF WAX RELEASE AND WHATS THE BLACK STUFF THAT YOU USE TO PAINT ON IT AND CAN YOU SHOW ME STEP BY STEP AND WHATS IT FOR . IM TRYING TO MAKE A REPLICA LIP ON MY 91 CRX. IT'S CALLED CHARGESPEED FRONT BUMPER LIP
Hey Bill! Im getting a cobra hood for my mustang next week, its made out of fiberglass and its only the top portion. I was told I could buy the top portion by itself and then take my old hood [Fiber glass composite (Top) and very light sheet metal (skeleton)], separate it and glue the cobra part to the factory squeleton getting a better fitment that way and saving a few bucks, My question is, how do i safely remove the lower portion without messing it up? How do I glue it back to the cobra one?
Thanks for the helpful videos, much appreciated. Just a question, what gel coat do you for your mold if you are going to make carbon fiber parts , is it normal gel coat or tooling gel coat ? Thanks Again.
The difference between tooling Gelcoat and common Gelcoat ( apart from price), is that Tooling gelcoat is tougher. So you use it when making molds that are going to have many copies made in them (like most commercial applications). But for home use I only use basic Gelcoat which holds up for around 6 - 8 copies with little deterioration, and minor faults can be repaired with car body filler, sealed, & away you go again.
HI Bill, just a few more questions if thats ok. Do you sand the wattyl 7008 after it dries ? I saw you put it on with a brush, do you get any brush marks after it dries ? Also, Bunnings doesnt sell the 7008, can I use the Cabot's Cabothane clear gloss CFP Floor polyurethane as a replacement ? Thanks.
No need to sand Wattyl 7008 or any equivalent 2 pack clear floor epoxy as it is self levelling... so no brush marks. Bunnings don't sell any Wattyl products - but Mitre Ten do, and most specialist paint shops. I'd have to read the Cabot's scan fine print to know if it's ok - but you're looking for a two part, equal A & B mix epoxy resin. Me? I'd find a 7008 seller.
+3gd16 Avoid buying off e-bay. Find a local wholesale TRADE supplier to the fiberglass industry in your area or state to get the best prices and range .I found several just by Googling "carbon fiber suppliers Puerto Rico".
i dont have access to the vacuum bagging is it ok not to do that and that thing you called pva release agent and that gel coat all that i got is resin hardener and a fiber cloth they called dont know where to buy that chemicals here in the Philippines
+enzo mitsu You can do fiberglassing without vacuum bagging, but you cannot fiberglass without the PVA release and Gelcoat. Just Google "fiberglass suppliers Phillipines" like I just did and you will find places where you can buy what you need in your country. Doing a double layer panel is a fairly advanced job. I suggest you watch my very first fiberglassing tutorial which you will find in my playlists. This covers the basics without using special equipment but shows the chemicals and small tools that are ESSENTIAL right from the start. What is it that you want to make with fiberglass?
i have a lancer glx the old one 1989 model and lots of its parts here are rare including louver the grill if i can replicate any of my parts my club member will benefit on it though im the only one thinking replicating it my first time to use fiber is on my bumper it cracked while entering an elevated road hahaha an from that moment i think i can do a lot with the fiber hihihi thanks for your tutorial got interesting idea and want to try thanks
+enzo mitsu As you are a beginner you really should watch my whole series on fiberglassing in my playlist.here. They will help you avoid the many big mistakes and difficulties you can have in making car parts, and teach you lots of tricks of how to go about it. Fiberglass will not stay glued to plastic bumpers unless you drill holes into the plastic to really anchor the resin. Start of with small parts of a simple shape, otherwise you'll get yourself into real trouble and waste your time and money and get discouraged. Remember there are NO shortcuts with fiberglass. If you leave out any step or product I show you to use you are headed for disaster. Start small.
WJP004 , к сожалению автоспортом не занимаюсь..возможно в будующем.. но очень интересно.. наткнулся в интернете на это видео..и решил немного подправить свой автомобиль.. после русского тюнинга )))) *** Unfortunately sports car not zanimayus..vozmozhno in the future .. but very interesting .. came across on the Internet at this video..i decided a little touch up your car .. after the Russian tuning ) ) ) )
All the info you want is already in my first fibreglass tutorial here: "How to Make Fibreglass Car Panels". I am about to upload another video shortly on reproducing a front bar. Watch all my fibreglass tutorials here and all your questions will be answered and your knowledge & confidence improved.
All that other info you expected is already contained in my 13 earlier videos. Repeating it all again would be boring, stupid, & stop me sharing the more advanced stuff. This (as titled) is a "Masterclass for the experienced" - for those I'd expect to already know the basics... which you obviously are not. I see you upload video games and footage of a sparrow in India. I think that sums up the value of your immature opinion. Take your thumb & shove it where the sun don't shine.
I wish i could meet someone like you and learn all you have to offer. Im a welder but i love learing new things like your art craft.
thanks for the video.
Take care
don't let these punks get to you Bill, myself and thousands of others appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skills with us. can't wait for the next tutorial!
Man time really flies does it. Hope you stay healthy and keep us educated.
I then realized the bottom part of the hood was also fiberglass. These cars dont come with sheet metal hoods. I managed to take a scewdriver and pry on the hood for a period of time until it released. The top part got damaged but fixable if i ever want to modify it and make a custom hood out of it. Used the epoxy gue to put the new part and the old squeleton together and turned out real good. Already painted it. Thanks a lot for making such helpful videos
Another instructive video.
For the window, make a paper pattern from the original, and cut that out of a flat sheet of perspex. Make a mould out of plaster or concrete (over sand?) of the glass, then use a heat gun to soften the perspex to shape. The mould doesn't have to be very smooth, just put something over ir, to keep from scratching the transparency.
Watching this video made we want to take up working with fibreglass for my hobby projects. You're a real inspiration and an excellent instructor. Thank you for your time and efforts in publishing these tutorials.
Thanks for the note on using breathing protection when sanding CF. I've done a lot of research on the topic of CF and you are the first to mention this very important subject!
The vacuum bagging job looks terrific mate!
My aim was to debug the urban myth that you CANNOt hand lay cf. I hoped this would lend guys to commence using this material and then progress into the more advanced methods I show later on in the series. There are also some parts that CAN be simply made without infusion techniques (like the fuel pump cover I showed me making in an earlier film), & which would be much more difficult to make if you ONLY ever though "infusion". Feedback suggests this path has proved helpful & encouraging to many.
Great job, you really have proven yourself KING OF DIY! Learned lot of your videos, THANK YOU!
The plastic is vacuum bagging plastic which you'll get from any good fibreglass materials supplier. The grey circular piece was the lock collar for the Tee piece which seals it into the bag. Same source.
You make it look easy! FWIW if you want a cheap easy vacuum bag for smaller parts, those vacuum clothing storage bags work very well, just rip out the one way valve rubber and tacky tape in the vacuum hose. The bag is reusable and a lot quicker than tacky taping up a sheet of film then trying to find all the leaks. They also work for resin infusion except they are single use when used like this. Interestingly they appear to be made from a similar material to the vacuum bag film.
Awesome job + not too complicate .Always direct to the point. you are the man.
love your videos! you should add like the install of the part at the end of the video in some of your videos cause the parts you reproduce looks awesome!
Another great video Bill! Looking forward to the perspex tutorial as I am about to embark on a lightweight hardtop for my race car!
I've wanted to do this for my drift car for so long! I may give it a go now, thanks Bill!
Excellent tutorial video - Ill use this process when I make my CF bonnet
Well, I gotta say (after viewing many of your other videos), you REALLY get a lot accomplished! I would be lucky to do 1/2 of what you do.. "and that was when I was in my teens". Quite inspiring. I'm asking myself "what have I done lately".. Clearly not much. Keep it up. p.s. Lots of good video shots and you do an GR8T job of explaining what you are doing. Thank you. Cheers!
keep these up, they're really informative and interesting.
We're currently working out how to shape the clear plastic window. I provided the hinge bolts because it was just so easy to do that as a quick mounting option.
Love your vids and your builds, so much different then American builds
man your amazing i'm new to fiberglassing you've change my hole outlook building motors as a welder bollocks to aluminium too much like hard work. thanks
Yes, that's quite common in the after market body kit business.
Jack f/glass is perfectly ok for any car panel. You can see a two piece tailgate I made in my tutorial on split moulds at 9:15. MOST of the car panels I make are f/glass. I only used c/fibre on that tailgate because that was what my son wanted, and it was five times the money and MUCH harder to get a decent finish on. I would RATHER have made it in f/glass.
YOUR A GOOD MAN, AND YOU KNOW YOUR STUFF.... HAVE A GOOD CHRISTMAS FROM THE CARIBOO, BC, CANADA
Awesome video! I would love to see how to make a fibreglass or carbon fibre fender that mounts to like an oem one
Well done, wish I could learn from person like you 👍
Que buenos estan todos los videos, se aprende mucho! que lindo seria que hable en español asi se entiende mejor. saludos desde Argentina.
Trato de mostrar todo lo que pueda para superar la barrera del idioma del mundo - pero al final algunas cosas sólo se puede explicar con palabras. Me alegro de que a pesar de esto todavía se encuentran mis vídeos interesante y alentador. Si alguna vez en Australia caer para una barbacoa!
You make awesome videos and im sure youve helped alot of people get inspired to make things and for that you are awesome! thnx alot! :D
+e36bmw302 Thankyou for your appreciation & encouragement. Inspiring others to have a go is exactly why I make & post these videos.
+WJP004 Are you adopting? I'm fully potty trained :D
Thanks David. My latest vid on scuplting, moulding & making a fibreglass front car bar will be uploaded very soon.
Love your channel. Going to start this same project. Thanks for the awesome videos.
Great guide Bill
Excellent video. I would love to see how the perspex rear window is made.
brilliant as usual. very inspirational and can't wait to up my skill trying this out!
Double layer reminds me of paddle blades I made with a guy years ago
Problem I found with polyester and chop strand when used for automotive is its forever sinking
Even painted with generous coats of 2k paint the chop strand prints through later on
They say epoxy and woven cloth is the only way but with this said Ive seen expensive aircraft with roving cloth print through on the wing fairings
Those super car manufacturers like ferrari must use some special composite
Good videos by the way
Steves Projects print through can be dealt with by using high temperature resins (generally they have much better properties than room temperature cure resins), the parts come out of the moulds with some light texture still, but that is then wet sanded down, buffed or clearcoated and wetsanded and buffed - and will stay flat with no surface texture development
continuous developing print through (even after sanding it flat) is a sign of a weak and "flexy" resin, generous layer of gel coat will usually help - simply because it is based on vinyl resin - which is tougher than polyester, room temperature epoxies may require an oven bake to finish the reaction properly (most manufacturers suggest post cure anyway), then there are epoxies with limited flex additives added in, sometimes this is desireable in a part - may prevent it from failing or delaminating - like body parts for rally cross cars for instance, which sometimes bump into each other - very rigid parts will break and may shatter - flexy resins will prevent that - but print through there is something you will have to live with
jz1199 Thanks for the tips and detailed reply you obviously no your subject very well :)
awesome work Bill, learned a ton!
My son has in his RX& series 6 and I hope to when I get my Honda Civic V6 sorted and my new house built.
I'm speaking to my son about making a part B tutorial on cutting the perspex & fitting it. Stay tuned.
Basically yes. An easy option in making doors is to cut the steel window framing off the factory door you're moulding & refit it back into the new f/g copy - having made a jig to line it up accurately. Put big ribs on all 4 edges of the factory door when moulding it to ensure your copy will be an accurate fit. Bathurst eh... don't know Dave Carter do you Phil... ex BLCC?
could you do a video on a split mould (2 or 3 piece mould with no holes), the lay up and how you go about attaching the pieces together efficiently if you're unable to get inside and add support on the joins? Every video i can find the mould has a hole in so they can add more fibre on the joins on the inside without adding any more size to the part so it will still like its suppose to. Id be grateful if you'd leave a comment if you don't have any projects your able to show this on. Thanks!! Learnt so much from your videos already
I can't really answer you without clearly knowing what it is you're trying to make. Pictures to redlina@bigpond.com would also help. There is no need to carpet bomb my videos with this question as I watch all comments on my channel & respond to them within days.
I watch ur vids all the time :) I subbed ages ago. Keep uploading ur vids and il keep watching
Making the fibreglass mould should cost around A$75. A fibreglass reproduction from it would cost around the same. A repro in carbon fibre would cost around 4 imes that... say A$300 - 400 depending on how well you can buy the materials.
Without knowing how it's held together I can't really advise you on how to do it. Figure out how they joined it and undo whatever they did. To glue the new skin on just use any two part epoxy glue. Our brand name here in Oz is Araldite. This is how they probably joined your original together,if so you'll have to cut it the epoxy apart - which will be difficult to do without damaging the top skin. Might be easier to get a stock factory steel bonnet from the wreckers & just undrill the spot welds.
thanks for your amazing videos :D, keep them up im always learning and wanting to fiberglass my ford capri :D
thank you so much for your wisdom! I am thinking of making a fiberglass roof for my camper van. i want o have the solar panels slightly sloping towards the edges and the gaps filled with sheet loft insulation. the roof will then be fiberglassed over the top with the panels flush. What do you think of this idea? could i simply add the fiberglass directly to the insulation and panels? i would really appreciate some advice on this!! thanks very much!
Have you seen my series on building a camper trailer in my "Playlist"? I fiberglassed the roof in this episode. You can fiberglass over any semi-rigid surface, but nothing soft that will either bend or soak up too much resin. I would not glass the solar panels in place because if any of them have troubles you might not be able to remove them. Also the more edges you have going around shapes in a roof the greater the likelihood of a leak. So me personally - I would make the roof with a 25mm run off from it's center , form it out of thin plywood or MDF and fiberglass it in one piece - BUT laying into it mounting brackets screwed in place on which to mount the solar panels. That way you can remove/replace them if ever needed, and you have a one piece roof. Extend the fiberglass over the sides like I did to prevent roof leaks. Note you lay the resin & glass FIRST, then TOP COAT or FINISH Coat second... not gelcoat. ua-cam.com/video/hF6hqMPCF-4/v-deo.html PM at Redline Fiberglass if you want to send pics & get more guidance.
That was awesome! will there be any footage of how the window is made(if plastic) or put in place?
and a video of it put on the rx? would love to see that =)
oh, and how is it mounted to the car? why the hinges instead of hole/pin mounts?
And is it a plastic window instead of glass? even lighter! =D
Hey Bill, I love your fiberglassing videos. I watch them religiously almost to the point of obsession admittedly! I can't wait to start laying up a tailgate of my own for a non-racing street car and I was wondering, would it be wise in a structural sense to create one purely from CSM fiberglass as you did with the car bonnet (with some reinforcement), versus the carbon fiber you used here? Would a car bonnet and tailgate share similar structural requirements to allow this?
Thanks,
Jack
Love your vids. Great job mate!
Nice Job, how does the glass fit ? I used cheaper materials when I vacuum bagged my Hovercraft.. I used Painters 4mill plastic instead of "Peel Ply" and I used an old quilted blanket for the breather layer.. Plus "Duct Tape to seal the bag. It worked like a charm... I'm alway Leary of buying materials from a Fiberglass supplier.. They charge more for the simple stuff, they just give it a technical name and jack the price.
your son's got good taste in cars much like you. :D
Excellent video, very helpful! Mind telling me the song that starts at 4:56?
I found this video very informing
Nice work Bill! What did the stock boot lid weigh compared to the finished piece?
hi mate great video
could you tell me what plastic you use for the vacuum bagging
and what was the grey circular piece inside the plastic that you attached the T piece to?
cheers mate
Wish u were my dad 😓
Nice one Bill I bet you had some fun making that video. Could you make me a carbon fibre 250GTO body to fit onto my MGB?
Old Dude, you're awesome!
hey at the end you said it probably weighs no more than about 2-3kg at most i was just wondering what the original parts approximate weight was for comparison and what the weight saving is
did you say for the vacuum you just used a fitting on your air compressor? if so, can that be bought at most hardware stores? not sure what places you have there, but would like home depot have it?
Some video game theme I borrowed from somewhere.
A NICE VIDEO ........BUT I WAS WODERING IF YOU CAN SHOW ME ALL YOUR PRODUCT THAT YOU USED FOR ALL THE PROJECT THAT YOU DID. WHAT KIND OF WAX RELEASE AND WHATS THE BLACK STUFF THAT YOU USE TO PAINT ON IT AND CAN YOU SHOW ME STEP BY STEP AND WHATS IT FOR . IM TRYING TO MAKE A REPLICA LIP ON MY 91 CRX. IT'S CALLED CHARGESPEED FRONT BUMPER LIP
Hey Bill! Im getting a cobra hood for my mustang next week, its made out of fiberglass and its only the top portion. I was told I could buy the top portion by itself and then take my old hood [Fiber glass composite (Top) and very light sheet metal (skeleton)], separate it and glue the cobra part to the factory squeleton getting a better fitment that way and saving a few bucks, My question is, how do i safely remove the lower portion without messing it up? How do I glue it back to the cobra one?
Hey mate have you ever done a complete door? Would love to see a video of that! I’m looking at doing the doors on my ba Xr8
Great job!
awesome. i plan to do this someday.
Any possible way that there will be a video of heating the new lexan to match the old glass?
Thanks for the helpful videos, much appreciated. Just a question, what gel coat do you for your mold if you are going to make carbon fiber parts , is it normal gel coat or tooling gel coat ? Thanks Again.
The difference between tooling Gelcoat and common Gelcoat ( apart from price), is that Tooling gelcoat is tougher. So you use it when making molds that are going to have many copies made in them (like most commercial applications). But for home use I only use basic Gelcoat which holds up for around 6 - 8 copies with little deterioration, and minor faults can be repaired with car body filler, sealed, & away you go again.
@@BillsBuildandRace Hi Bill, Thanks for the quick reply mate, greatly appreciated.
The factory tailgate weighed around 15kg.
Sweet! Looking forward to it!
can you put a layer of carbon fiber on top of a fiberglass part just to get look of carbonfiber?
Great video :) what's the music,in the end?
DO KNOW HOW TO MAKE flexible polythene RUBBER PARTS......LIKE A FRONT LIP AND OTHER PARTS............
Amazing great job
HI Bill, just a few more questions if thats ok. Do you sand the wattyl 7008 after it dries ? I saw you put it on with a brush, do you get any brush marks after it dries ? Also, Bunnings doesnt sell the 7008, can I use the Cabot's Cabothane clear gloss CFP Floor polyurethane as a replacement ? Thanks.
No need to sand Wattyl 7008 or any equivalent 2 pack clear floor epoxy as it is self levelling... so no brush marks. Bunnings don't sell any Wattyl products - but Mitre Ten do, and most specialist paint shops. I'd have to read the Cabot's scan fine print to know if it's ok - but you're looking for a two part, equal A & B mix epoxy resin. Me? I'd find a 7008 seller.
@@BillsBuildandRace Ok cool Thanks for that mate, much appreciated.
o cara é fera mesmo muito bom
Super. You rock!
Why you put rally crash clip in intro ?
Awesome
Nice videos where do you get the carbon fiber from?
+3gd16 Where are you?
+WJP004 I'm from Puerto Rico
+3gd16 Avoid buying off e-bay. Find a local wholesale TRADE supplier to the fiberglass industry in your area or state to get the best prices and range .I found several just by Googling "carbon fiber suppliers Puerto Rico".
+WJP004 thanks I will try that you have inspired me to try this I have done fiberglass before but never carbon fiber
One cool dad :-)
In the pipeline.
i dont have access to the vacuum bagging is it ok not to do that and that thing you called pva release agent and that gel coat all that i got is resin hardener and a fiber cloth they called dont know where to buy that chemicals here in the Philippines
+enzo mitsu You can do fiberglassing without vacuum bagging, but you cannot fiberglass without the PVA release and Gelcoat. Just Google "fiberglass suppliers Phillipines" like I just did and you will find places where you can buy what you need in your country. Doing a double layer panel is a fairly advanced job. I suggest you watch my very first fiberglassing tutorial which you will find in my playlists. This covers the basics without using special equipment but shows the chemicals and small tools that are ESSENTIAL right from the start. What is it that you want to make with fiberglass?
i have a lancer glx the old one 1989 model and lots of its parts here are rare including louver the grill if i can replicate any of my parts my club member will benefit on it though im the only one thinking replicating it my first time to use fiber is on my bumper it cracked while entering an elevated road hahaha an from that moment i think i can do a lot with the fiber hihihi thanks for your tutorial got interesting idea and want to try thanks
+enzo mitsu As you are a beginner you really should watch my whole series on fiberglassing in my playlist.here. They will help you avoid the many big mistakes and difficulties you can have in making car parts, and teach you lots of tricks of how to go about it. Fiberglass will not stay glued to plastic bumpers unless you drill holes into the plastic to really anchor the resin. Start of with small parts of a simple shape, otherwise you'll get yourself into real trouble and waste your time and money and get discouraged. Remember there are NO shortcuts with fiberglass. If you leave out any step or product I show you to use you are headed for disaster. Start small.
thanks sir a lot
i will and give some pic please comment if there will be a problem more power sir and please make more video as inspiration
How much is carbon fibre?
how much does this cost
Супер! я тоже так хочу )))
*Super! I too so want )))
+Александр Коротков Вы вовлечены в той или иной форме автоспорте ? Мне было просто интересно , почему этот учебник интересующим Вас вопросам.
WJP004 , к сожалению автоспортом не занимаюсь..возможно в будующем.. но очень интересно.. наткнулся в интернете на это видео..и решил немного подправить свой автомобиль.. после русского тюнинга ))))
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Unfortunately sports car not zanimayus..vozmozhno in the future .. but very interesting .. came across on the Internet at this video..i decided a little touch up your car .. after the Russian tuning ) ) ) )
'cause I'm a sick bastard
G'donya!
All the info you want is already in my first fibreglass tutorial here: "How to Make Fibreglass Car Panels". I am about to upload another video shortly on reproducing a front bar. Watch all my fibreglass tutorials here and all your questions will be answered and your knowledge & confidence improved.
All that other info you expected is already contained in my 13 earlier videos. Repeating it all again would be boring, stupid, & stop me sharing the more advanced stuff. This (as titled) is a "Masterclass for the experienced" - for those I'd expect to already know the basics... which you obviously are not. I see you upload video games and footage of a sparrow in India. I think that sums up the value of your immature opinion. Take your thumb & shove it where the sun don't shine.
awww no glitter :3
No