This man is gifted. Ive been panel beating and spray painting 16 years and only getting into the fibre glass work now this mans videos have been the best help I could ask for. Much respect mate from Lorcan in ireland
I've seen all your videos many times and your still the best on u tube for the guy that wants to make his own parts without going broke. keep up the good work and make more parts.
I love your work and you make it look really easy I know some basics but I'm about to start a baja bug project that I have a ton of ideas about doing fiberglass all around it, I'm gonna really be pushing my limits of what I know I can do, but I'm sure your videos will come in handy...... Keep up the good work bud!
Great video. First time viewer to your channel. Just also wondering. I’m wanting to copy a dash board. But I want to have the same texture that was on the original as it’s going to go back into a road car. How do the professionals do it when they are making these fibreglass dashboards? Thanks
WJP004 thanks for the reply. Ok next question then. I’m converting a vehicle from left hand drive to right hand drive and I’m doing what you said. Chopping the dash up and moving the parts around but I’m going to loose be texture where the joins and pieces I have to add in with the filler etc but I need to get that texture back again. Would I be better to buy some vinyl to cover the dash completely before I did the mould?
To install it we just slipped it in place. It fitted like a glove - no trimming needed at all. Then we just used the central factory bolt in the centre of the bottom of the windscreen, and a cable ties each side to hold it to the roll bar. % minutes tops!
@@BillsBuildandRace that’s awesome, but what about for not a race car, let’s say for a show car, how would you add the bolt brackets or screw holes to the mold to incorporate that into a 100% factory replica
@@gunnermaison24 In that case, if there were side brackets I would try to incorporate those into my sculpted die. The other way is to make the dash as I did in this video, fit it into the car, then make mounting brackets to go from the factory mounts to the new dash in tin. Then glue them in place overnight with No More Nails. The next day, carefully remove the new dash and lay fiberglass over where the brackets have been glued to it.
Check out Bill’s Build and Race. He’s a freaking master from Australia. You have to watch some of his older stuff. The one where he builds a car dash from fiberglass is really good. He build structural stuff too. Carbon fiber. Kevlar. He’s a genius.
Another great Vid! @ ~17:04 you apply Cf and a layer of resin on the entire part then let fully harden BEFORE using gelcoat on the remaining dash. I've never used resin (full cure)->gelcoat->lay up in any of my projects and wonder if I'm missing a critical step. What does that middle layer of gelcoat get you? Strength? Smoother finish? I'm always looking to improve my own pieces. Thanks again!
I could have left that layer of gelcoat out as far as structure was concerned - but just used it as a way to get the dash black to match the carbon panel I inserted. Typical me is always mucking around trying different combos. I did the sparkles & carbon insert just to show custom car guys what sort of things they COULD do at home. After this video was shot my son immediately covered this dash in black flocked material to more suit the look he wanted in his race car (none of dad's stupid bling), but that's ok. I'd shown what I wanted to - and he ended up with a mega lightweight dash that appeared dead stock but to which he could mount his single electronic display dash.
Poly resins and epoxy resins can be used with both fiberglass cloth and carbon fiber, but I used epoxy resin for the CF on this job to avoid the discolouring of poly resin in laying that feature section up. I let it set, then used poly resin for the fiberglass used on the bulk of the dash copy.
Hello sir thank you for sharing the video. I have a question 12:20 im just amazed how you lay up 450g matt... mine does not stick like yours when I'm laying up the matt on 90 degrees angle . do you think what is the problem ? is it from the quality of resin ?
Sorry for the late response - just found your question today. Poly resins used in fiberglassing are not really sticky - they just saturate the csm so it behaves like wet cloth (which is what it has actually become). Are you having trouble with the FIRST layer of cloth not sticking on upright layups, or on all of it's layers?
ì wonder if the shimmer stuff will reflect intoo the windshield , usually dashes are matt there to prevent reflections oh well if that turns out to be an issue he can allways flock the top
Hey mate I know this videos from a while ago but if I'm doing a custom dash as you say fill it out for the die and sculpt it just wondering what you might suggest to sculpt and shape it? Cheers
G'Day Jordan. The best material for sculpting is "Fairing Compound". It is a light. aerated filler used in the boar industry for epairs where boats typically get dented from hittig warves, etc. Look up "Fiberglass Material Suppliers" in your area, and look for a trade fiberglass supplier who caters for the boat repair industry. It is way cheaper than car body filler, and WAY softer to sand. For finishing off I use Gyprock Drywall Joint compound, which you cab sand with 2-- grit. But you can't use it more than 1/8th inch thick, as it will shrink & crack past that. But for final top coat for the last sanding - perfect.
Hey Bill, how are you doing lately? I live in Brazil, we have some twins cars and i want to do a custom dashboard. The vw apolo and ford Verona are the same car with different variants of the same dash. I like the left part of the verona and the right part of the apolo, the center is the same. Is there any technique that i can use to make a custom dash out of 2 different units?
Yes I do all the time. The thickness of csm you use depends on the nature & shape of each job, the strength and thickness you are wanting to achieve. So I use 600gm Double Bias woven cloth for quick thickness/strength build up, but it only works on flat surfaces (like a car floor), because it won't conform to curves. I use 225gm csm as my first layer because it as the maximum flexibility in taking up compound curves and sharp bends. Then I put 2 layers of 450gm csm over that to get the strength I want and the minimum 3mm thickness our race rules require for fiberglass panels.
Qué tipo de líquido usa para que la resina de la fibra no se adhiera y pueda separar el molde de la matriz? Veo que con mucha facilidad logra separarlos. La pregunta es porque estoy trabajando en un proyecto similar a este pero para poder separar la matriz del molde tuve que hacerlos en pedazos.. gracias por comentar
hey mate, good work. just curious what type of epoxy you used and if you prepped the clear topcoat before laying gelcoat over it? in my experience epoxy resin needs to be washed & sanded to remove amine blush for poly to adhere correctly. what are your thoughts?
I showed exactly how I prep over the clear epoxy Wattyl 7008 resin at 10.00ff. Those two steps are not about adhesion - but the exact opposite... to ensure release of the mold from the sculpted plug.
Hi Bill, I have a question about using the epoxy coating to stiffen up a padded dash. I am having a little issue with adhesion with the fairing compound between the padded portion and the plastic on my dash wanting to crack. I was wondering if there is any problem getting filler to stick to the epoxy if I go over the dash with a couple coats of epoxy and then go back to fill the thin areas that I am having issues with? I realize I'll have to recoat it again with epoxy when finished, but feel that I need to stiffen up the surface to allow a more rigid surface to work with. I left you a message a couple messages down the page of what it was looking like two months ago. It's actually coming along quit well for a novice all thanks to you. Tom
Would this be an issue if you were to that dash in the uk roads with all the bits and bobs on it, thinking about doing a custom dash board for a vw type 2
You never will. Forged CF has to be mixed with resin and formed in a heated press at high pressure. The sort of equipment required to do that is way beyond the home fabricator.
Make the fiberglass dash, then test fit and cut wooden blocks as required, then overlay them onto the back of the dash with two layers of fiberglass. After this is done put the dash in place & mark where the screw holes need to be, remove the dash and lightly just drill holes for them into the fiberglass overlay so the screws can bite into the wood. Another way is to once again make the dash, but before you put it in position for a test fit place small bolts with a bit of length with nuts into where it needs to mount. Then fit the dash and wind the bolts back into their nuts so the heads just touch the back of the dash. Remove the dash & put a big dob of car body filler on the heads of your dash bolts, and re-fit the dash so they glue onto it. Leave overnight. Remove the dash the next day and lightly fiberglass around the bolt tops to strongly anchor them onto the back of the dash because the car filler by itself is not strong enough to hold the bolts to your dash. This second technique is how I securely anchor bolts onto fiberglass wheel arch and panel extensions to convert them from screw or glue on into invisible bolt ons.
When I make my carbon fiber dashboard if I want the carbon fiber to stay on to the dashboard can I just wrap it with carbon, epoxy it, vacuum bag it, and skip the mold release, like a skin?
Yes - but you are likely to get a lot of surface faults trying to short cut things doing it that way, rather than making a proper mold of it in which to make a copy.
@@StraightLineCycles Then stop looking for short cuts. Sculpt a die, mold it, and make your CF copies in that. Best product & quickest in the long run.
I just noticed you changed your channels name lol, this should've been the name from the beginning instead of wjp004. Your channel would've grown so much faster, but now watch it explode! 🙌😎👍🏼
Bill I have a question for you about the dash I just started working on. It's mainly plastic and has a speaker grill modeled into the top of the dash on the right corner. What kind of backing material would you suggest to use on the underside so I can smooth filler in from the top side? I thought of using some cardboard from a cereal box, but wanted an opinion from the Australian Master. Thanks Tom
@@BillsBuildandRace Hi Bill, I'll try the tin on the next project, but wanted to keep moving forward, so I used a piece of heavy cardboard from the back of a legal notepad and then laid two layers of Tiger Glass over the backside. Little extra work, but it's not going anywhere. Did the top side filling with some Rage Gold and now waiting on Fairing Compound order to arrive. Since I have absolutely zero experience from using these materials I would have never started this project if it hadn't been for the confidence gained from watching your awesome videos. i.postimg.cc/50hdKCDS/20200523-193025.jpg i.postimg.cc/T3F9DJb0/20200525-164622.jpg Thanks, Tom
Yes & no. The sculpted mold is sealed with equal 2 parts A & B floor resin. This is NOT fiberglass resin (which uses a catalyst). Then you give it one single, generous coat of release or floor wax & don't polish it. Then comes to gelcoat which is allowed to fully dry (but it will remain a little sticky). Layup then starts with brushing the job with resin, then applying cloth which has resin brushed on to saturate it... generally 1 layer of 225gm cs then two layers of 450gm csm. This particular video is a Masterclass. By that I mean it is for the experienced fiberglasser... so the basics are not detailed. However that is all covered in full detail and shown in my very first fiberglass tutorial in my "Library" (main page top left). I suggest you watch that one.
I covered all the basics in my very first fiberglass tutorial. I'd advise watching all of these as they'll help you get familiar with the materials and processes. ua-cam.com/play/PLh5B6MCXRHiEFl6VaERQKJUGFRj4Coh4H.html
WJP004 I was more referring to the fiberglass it self, I can see tons of small particles floating in the air if the sun hits it just right when ever I’m fixing bumpers 🤓
But essentially by this time you could essentially do Carbon OR fiber... Just depends on if you want to do the extra steps and not necessarily care about the weave direction (which would weaker) Do they make resin win different weights? I feel like the last time I made something in fiberglass it was irrationally heavy.
Trojan Fiberglass Supplies where I used to work (Google them). Best range, cheapest prices because the MAKE the resins. Mitch takes orders & is a fellow petrol head, so mention me. Pay online & they deliver
Nice Job, You mentioned, Sealing the plug with epoxy cuz the filler will stick to the fiberglass.. Doesn't the Mold release prevent sticking ? Do I need both ? I tried to make a mold of a Wheel Skin, I sprayed 3 HEAVY coats of Partall #10 PVA.. It didn't work.. It stuck solid, everywhere, All of it, every inch.. i made a cool plug out of Styrofoam, Painted it, and smothered it with PVA.. FAILED !. The Mold came out ok.. But, I had to melt the foam out with Acetone..
The answer to your first question is: NO. Second answer is BOTH + 1 other. PVA or mold release only works on sealed surfaces that have also been waxed. Your next job should just be a small test object of no value following the steps outlined below. You MUST seal your dies with two pack epoxy paint (eg: Wattyl 7008 floor clear, or Famowood Glaze Coat) otherwise the Gelcoat eats through the PVA into your porous die surfaces and locks your job together so it either won't separate or has stuff sticking all over the Gelcoat. So stop just relying on PVA and use these THREE steps (there are no shortcuts with fiberglassing). 1) Seal your dies/plugs/molds with two pack epoxy paint (NOT one part clear floor varnish). 2) Apply one generous coat of release wax (or cheap floor wax from the supermarket) and don't polish it - the heat of the Gelcoat will melt it smooth. Ignore what release wax instructions & advice say to put five or six coats & polish between each one... wax on wax off... that's not necessary with 95% of jobs. 3) NOW apply a single coat of PVA release. I just brush it on. The only time you DON"T need to seal your die/plug with two pack epoxy is when it is all metal or all plastic having rock hard surfaces that the Gelcoat cannot eat into & penetrate, with no fillers anywhere.
Thank You, I appreciate your help. I'm gonna copy your text, so I don't forget anything.. I haven't used Fiberglass in 30 years, and I'm completely new to molding, but, I guess that's obvious.. :) Your Videos are fabulous, Thanks again..
Because this is a Masterclass tutorial - and described as that in the opening titles. It's not really a job suitable for a beginner, but rather one for the experienced, and people with that level of experience will know what materials to use and where to get them. So far I've uploaded twenty seven fiberglassing tutorials. Think about this: If I put details about what materials to use and where to get them in EVERY one of those videos it would get bloody boring and make all my films longer than they need to be. All you need to know about the basics of laying up are covered in my FIRST tutorial, which you'll find in my library playlist. I also cannot put where to buy fiberglass materials in my videos because they are watched by people in just about every country in the world. True. So how am I supposed to find out that info for EVERYBODY, and how on earth could I display it all??? If you live near me I am happy to share my supplier with you via messaging... but I don't know which country YOU live in. Aren't you able to just Google search "Fiberglass materials suppliers" in your area? C'mon !
so I've never done any fiberglass before I've been watching your videos I want to make saddlebags for my bike. but I'm a Potter and something I saw you want to be careful of when mixing the blue sparkles probably best to step away from them when stirring I've used the same kind of things in glaze and a little splash can contaminate the whole batch. obviously, you're seasoned at doing this but this is mainly for people who might not be
You sometimes can get away with only using just one or the other, but experience and recent experiments have conformed for me it is always best to use both. The last thing you want is to have a big battle on your hands to get your work apart because you decided to take a short cut... which has now turned out to be exactly the opposite.
@@joeorton1218 I would build an original dash in tin sheet metal and probably add shaped bits to that base in wood, plastic, bits of other dashes like an instrument pod.. whatever works. Once that sculpture was finished I would then make a fiberglass mold of it, and then my final copy in that mold following all the steps you see me do in this video. But if it's for a road car - with air vents, opening glove box etc. rather than just a simple race car one ... well that would be a very complicated job.
The links to my Facebook pages are in the bottom right of the main page pic here (but not visible on some portable devices). I am in Australia - so freight costs kill the practicalities of exporting. The best way to find who you need locally is via the Facebook RX7 enthusiasts pages.
The home page of this site has a main pic of my Civic race car being towed by a blue Ford. In the bottom right of that pic there is a Google+ icon & two facebook icons. Hit the middle icon.
The carbon fiber made that dash look like doo-doo. Looks like you have a solid process down though. Other people have a much harder time getting the copy to release from the mold.
Are you asking me how much it costs to make these dashboards, or how much I sell them for? I can't really tell you how much it would cost YOU to make them because I don't know where you live, nor how much materials cost in your area/country.
This man is gifted. Ive been panel beating and spray painting 16 years and only getting into the fibre glass work now this mans videos have been the best help I could ask for. Much respect mate from Lorcan in ireland
I've seen all your videos many times and your still the best on u tube for the guy that wants to make his own parts without going broke. keep up the good work and make more parts.
I don't have a race car, but a project with cracked dash and not obtainable anywhere so I'll be doing this someday... Bill, you got a new sub :)
The most helpful video on youtube when it comes to getting creative with your auto. Thank you
Thank you for showing how to do these how to videos on a budget.
I love your work and you make it look really easy I know some basics but I'm about to start a baja bug project that I have a ton of ideas about doing fiberglass all around it, I'm gonna really be pushing my limits of what I know I can do, but I'm sure your videos will come in handy...... Keep up the good work bud!
My Facebook links are on my channel front page - top screen right under the channel art pic. Fell free to pm me if you need detailed advice.
WJP004 right on! Thank you very much......
Yet another fantastic job Bill "The Master of Glass" Seeya Rob
Did you drill holes and add metal brackets for mounting after? Great tutorial, thank you, much appreciated!
Great video. First time viewer to your channel. Just also wondering. I’m wanting to copy a dash board. But I want to have the same texture that was on the original as it’s going to go back into a road car. How do the professionals do it when they are making these fibreglass dashboards? Thanks
The fiberglass will copy that texture in the finest detail.
WJP004 thanks for the reply. Ok next question then. I’m converting a vehicle from left hand drive to right hand drive and I’m doing what you said. Chopping the dash up and moving the parts around but I’m going to loose be texture where the joins and pieces I have to add in with the filler etc but I need to get that texture back again. Would I be better to buy some vinyl to cover the dash completely before I did the mould?
@@thepaddonman Im interested either from right to left side.
How do you mirror it - provided the result have factory quality?
Thanks for the video, but I would also love to see how it was installed and how you made the brackets to mount it
To install it we just slipped it in place. It fitted like a glove - no trimming needed at all. Then we just used the central factory bolt in the centre of the bottom of the windscreen, and a cable ties each side to hold it to the roll bar. % minutes tops!
@@BillsBuildandRace that’s awesome, but what about for not a race car, let’s say for a show car, how would you add the bolt brackets or screw holes to the mold to incorporate that into a 100% factory replica
@@gunnermaison24 In that case, if there were side brackets I would try to incorporate those into my sculpted die. The other way is to make the dash as I did in this video, fit it into the car, then make mounting brackets to go from the factory mounts to the new dash in tin. Then glue them in place overnight with No More Nails. The next day, carefully remove the new dash and lay fiberglass over where the brackets have been glued to it.
@@BillsBuildandRace you my guy, are amazing! Thank you!
Do you ever roller between layers?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Real inspiration to my fiber work! !! God bless u man !!!
how to install the carbon fiber part with no screw bracket and any clip
Check out Bill’s Build and Race. He’s a freaking master from Australia. You have to watch some of his older stuff. The one where he builds a car dash from fiberglass is really good. He build structural stuff too. Carbon fiber. Kevlar. He’s a genius.
Hello, you just have a done splendid work. I am wondering if you make any customised dash for Toyota?? Do you???
I am not a general manufacturer & seller of fiberglass car parts, but rather I specialize in custom jobs for race cars.
Another great Vid! @ ~17:04 you apply Cf and a layer of resin on the entire part then let fully harden BEFORE using gelcoat on the remaining dash. I've never used resin (full cure)->gelcoat->lay up in any of my projects and wonder if I'm missing a critical step. What does that middle layer of gelcoat get you? Strength? Smoother finish? I'm always looking to improve my own pieces. Thanks again!
I could have left that layer of gelcoat out as far as structure was concerned - but just used it as a way to get the dash black to match the carbon panel I inserted. Typical me is always mucking around trying different combos. I did the sparkles & carbon insert just to show custom car guys what sort of things they COULD do at home. After this video was shot my son immediately covered this dash in black flocked material to more suit the look he wanted in his race car (none of dad's stupid bling), but that's ok. I'd shown what I wanted to - and he ended up with a mega lightweight dash that appeared dead stock but to which he could mount his single electronic display dash.
Another awesome video, love watching your projects
Hi fello aussie So at the end did u use the carbon fibre resin to do the whole dash cause u used some carbon fibre
Poly resins and epoxy resins can be used with both fiberglass cloth and carbon fiber, but I used epoxy resin for the CF on this job to avoid the discolouring of poly resin in laying that feature section up. I let it set, then used poly resin for the fiberglass used on the bulk of the dash copy.
Thanks bud im actually binge watching your vids now 🤘 im learning so much your the best I have ever seen
Great work on you're tutorials, i must say they are by far one of the best i've seen.
Keep up the awesome work and thank you for the great videos :)
Thanks ! Good video ! Nice a straight to the point.
Hello sir thank you for sharing the video. I have a question 12:20 im just amazed how you lay up 450g matt... mine does not stick like yours when I'm laying up the matt on 90 degrees angle . do you think what is the problem ? is it from the quality of resin ?
Sorry for the late response - just found your question today. Poly resins used in fiberglassing are not really sticky - they just saturate the csm so it behaves like wet cloth (which is what it has actually become). Are you having trouble with the FIRST layer of cloth not sticking on upright layups, or on all of it's layers?
ì wonder if the shimmer stuff will reflect intoo the windshield , usually dashes are matt there to prevent reflections
oh well if that turns out to be an issue he can allways flock the top
Hey mate I know this videos from a while ago but if I'm doing a custom dash as you say fill it out for the die and sculpt it just wondering what you might suggest to sculpt and shape it? Cheers
G'Day Jordan. The best material for sculpting is "Fairing Compound". It is a light. aerated filler used in the boar industry for epairs where boats typically get dented from hittig warves, etc. Look up "Fiberglass Material Suppliers" in your area, and look for a trade fiberglass supplier who caters for the boat repair industry. It is way cheaper than car body filler, and WAY softer to sand. For finishing off I use Gyprock Drywall Joint compound, which you cab sand with 2-- grit. But you can't use it more than 1/8th inch thick, as it will shrink & crack past that. But for final top coat for the last sanding - perfect.
Hey Bill, how are you doing lately? I live in Brazil, we have some twins cars and i want to do a custom dashboard. The vw apolo and ford Verona are the same car with different variants of the same dash. I like the left part of the verona and the right part of the apolo, the center is the same. Is there any technique that i can use to make a custom dash out of 2 different units?
PM with pics for accurate advice. Facebook link n this channel's main page.
Can I use a thicker chopped strand mat instead of 220gm?
Yes I do all the time. The thickness of csm you use depends on the nature & shape of each job, the strength and thickness you are wanting to achieve. So I use 600gm Double Bias woven cloth for quick thickness/strength build up, but it only works on flat surfaces (like a car floor), because it won't conform to curves. I use 225gm csm as my first layer because it as the maximum flexibility in taking up compound curves and sharp bends. Then I put 2 layers of 450gm csm over that to get the strength I want and the minimum 3mm thickness our race rules require for fiberglass panels.
Qué tipo de líquido usa para que la resina de la fibra no se adhiera y pueda separar el molde de la matriz? Veo que con mucha facilidad logra separarlos. La pregunta es porque estoy trabajando en un proyecto similar a este pero para poder separar la matriz del molde tuve que hacerlos en pedazos.. gracias por comentar
Must subscribe on your channel... absolutely great job's. Well done and thanks for sharing your knowledge. I will follow those on my project.
Nice vid! Thanks for all your effort bringing this to us!
What is the music playing @ 17:00?
hey mate, good work. just curious what type of epoxy you used and if you prepped the clear topcoat before laying gelcoat over it? in my experience epoxy resin needs to be washed & sanded to remove amine blush for poly to adhere correctly.
what are your thoughts?
I showed exactly how I prep over the clear epoxy Wattyl 7008 resin at 10.00ff. Those two steps are not about adhesion - but the exact opposite... to ensure release of the mold from the sculpted plug.
Hi Bill, I have a question about using the epoxy coating to stiffen up a padded dash. I am having a little issue with adhesion with the fairing compound between the padded portion and the plastic on my dash wanting to crack. I was wondering if there is any problem getting filler to stick to the epoxy if I go over the dash with a couple coats of epoxy and then go back to fill the thin areas that I am having issues with? I realize I'll have to recoat it again with epoxy when finished, but feel that I need to stiffen up the surface to allow a more rigid surface to work with. I left you a message a couple messages down the page of what it was looking like two months ago. It's actually coming along quit well for a novice all thanks to you. Tom
PM me so you can send me pics so I can get a clearer idea of what you're asking. Facebook linkls are on the channel home page.
Facebook message sent. Thanks
Nice video i love it !! But why didn't you flok the dash ?
I built that c.f dash for my son's race car and he did flock it, but I wanted to show custom car guys other options more up their alley as well.
i really like you're video's , i recently discoverd youre channel and learnt a lot ! keep it up!
Flok?
I really love your work, amazing 👍
Would this be an issue if you were to that dash in the uk roads with all the bits and bobs on it, thinking about doing a custom dash board for a vw type 2
Please do a right to lhd conversion sometime. I wanted to see how it goes.
Not gonna happen. I have no need to do that. Sorry.
Now you can use forged carbon, which is kind of the carbon equivalent of the chopstrand, id love to see you work with that stuff 😎👍🏼
You never will. Forged CF has to be mixed with resin and formed in a heated press at high pressure. The sort of equipment required to do that is way beyond the home fabricator.
Hey sir, how are you doing? Hope you are safe. How can i integrate the screws attachment points into the backside? I want to do some trim for my dash.
Make the fiberglass dash, then test fit and cut wooden blocks as required, then overlay them onto the back of the dash with two layers of fiberglass. After this is done put the dash in place & mark where the screw holes need to be, remove the dash and lightly just drill holes for them into the fiberglass overlay so the screws can bite into the wood. Another way is to once again make the dash, but before you put it in position for a test fit place small bolts with a bit of length with nuts into where it needs to mount. Then fit the dash and wind the bolts back into their nuts so the heads just touch the back of the dash. Remove the dash & put a big dob of car body filler on the heads of your dash bolts, and re-fit the dash so they glue onto it. Leave overnight. Remove the dash the next day and lightly fiberglass around the bolt tops to strongly anchor them onto the back of the dash because the car filler by itself is not strong enough to hold the bolts to your dash. This second technique is how I securely anchor bolts onto fiberglass wheel arch and panel extensions to convert them from screw or glue on into invisible bolt ons.
@@BillsBuildandRace thank you very much!
When I make my carbon fiber dashboard if I want the carbon fiber to stay on to the dashboard can I just wrap it with carbon, epoxy it, vacuum bag it, and skip the mold release, like a skin?
Yes - but you are likely to get a lot of surface faults trying to short cut things doing it that way, rather than making a proper mold of it in which to make a copy.
@@BillsBuildandRace i would like to reproduce them...hmmm.
@@StraightLineCycles Then stop looking for short cuts. Sculpt a die, mold it, and make your CF copies in that. Best product & quickest in the long run.
I just noticed you changed your channels name lol, this should've been the name from the beginning instead of wjp004.
Your channel would've grown so much faster, but now watch it explode! 🙌😎👍🏼
Bill I have a question for you about the dash I just started working on. It's mainly plastic and has a speaker grill modeled into the top of the dash on the right corner. What kind of backing material would you suggest to use on the underside so I can smooth filler in from the top side? I thought of using some cardboard from a cereal box, but wanted an opinion from the Australian Master. Thanks Tom
I normally just glue a tin plate on the back before filling, but drill some holes in the edge of the tin to ensure the glue locks it in place. Or MDF.
@@BillsBuildandRace Hi Bill,
I'll try the tin on the next project, but wanted to keep moving forward, so I used a piece of heavy cardboard from the back of a legal notepad and then laid two layers of Tiger Glass over the backside. Little extra work, but it's not going anywhere. Did the top side filling with some Rage Gold and now waiting on Fairing Compound order to arrive. Since I have absolutely zero experience from using these materials
I would have never started this project if it hadn't been for the confidence gained from watching your awesome videos.
i.postimg.cc/50hdKCDS/20200523-193025.jpg
i.postimg.cc/T3F9DJb0/20200525-164622.jpg
Thanks,
Tom
Hello there, what materials are mostly - or usually - used
by the manufacturers for the structure and outer covering?
Plastic, vinyl & foam rubber
So when ur done sculpting your mold, you put down,resin first then mold release, then gelcoat, after gelcoat u put fiberglass then resin?
Yes & no. The sculpted mold is sealed with equal 2 parts A & B floor resin. This is NOT fiberglass resin (which uses a catalyst). Then you give it one single, generous coat of release or floor wax & don't polish it. Then comes to gelcoat which is allowed to fully dry (but it will remain a little sticky). Layup then starts with brushing the job with resin, then applying cloth which has resin brushed on to saturate it... generally 1 layer of 225gm cs then two layers of 450gm csm. This particular video is a Masterclass. By that I mean it is for the experienced fiberglasser... so the basics are not detailed. However that is all covered in full detail and shown in my very first fiberglass tutorial in my "Library" (main page top left). I suggest you watch that one.
WJP004 thank you so much appreciate the respond back and taking the time to tell me some of the steps.💯👍🏻👌.i will watch your other video.
WJP004 cant find the tutorial video u got so many lol.
@@puch7261 "Library" > "Fiberglass & Carbon Fiber Tutorials" > first one: "How to Make Fiberglass Panels"
What supplies do i need to fiberglass a dash? New to this..
I covered all the basics in my very first fiberglass tutorial. I'd advise watching all of these as they'll help you get familiar with the materials and processes. ua-cam.com/play/PLh5B6MCXRHiEFl6VaERQKJUGFRj4Coh4H.html
WJP004 thank you!
In cases that I don't have a can of acetone in my home garage or in my shed, could a nail polish remover work to clean up my dash?
Nail polish remover IS Acetone.
Great work but why not where breathing mask ?
Because poly based resins are not toxic, and I use LSE resin = Low Styrene Emissions.
WJP004 I was more referring to the fiberglass it self, I can see tons of small particles floating in the air if the sun hits it just right when ever I’m fixing bumpers 🤓
But essentially by this time you could essentially do Carbon OR fiber... Just depends on if you want to do the extra steps and not necessarily care about the weave direction (which would weaker)
Do they make resin win different weights? I feel like the last time I made something in fiberglass it was irrationally heavy.
Audio track re-mix to appease the music police
WJP004 😆😂 👍 i love intro
Hey mate! Great video, keen to get started on my own project. Where do you get your materials?
Where are you?
Where are you?
WJP004 Richmond, Victoria!
WJP004 Trojan online looks to be the best option I can find, I’ve noticed their products in your videos too
Trojan Fiberglass Supplies where I used to work (Google them). Best range, cheapest prices because the MAKE the resins. Mitch takes orders & is a fellow petrol head, so mention me. Pay online & they deliver
I see these are old videos but thank you
Do you add water in your PVA???
No.
@@BillsBuildandRace my PVA is same like you have, the colour is blue but my PVA is so lilbit thick
@@rahmatsiwi8081 PM me a pic of your PVA label via my facebook link on this channel's home page.
@@BillsBuildandRace oke, wait 🙏🏻
Nice Job, You mentioned, Sealing the plug with epoxy cuz the filler will stick to the fiberglass.. Doesn't the Mold release prevent sticking ? Do I need both ?
I tried to make a mold of a Wheel Skin, I sprayed 3 HEAVY coats of Partall #10 PVA.. It didn't work.. It stuck solid, everywhere, All of it, every inch..
i made a cool plug out of Styrofoam, Painted it, and smothered it with PVA.. FAILED !. The Mold came out ok.. But, I had to melt the foam out with Acetone..
The answer to your first question is: NO. Second answer is BOTH + 1 other. PVA or mold release only works on sealed surfaces that have also been waxed. Your next job should just be a small test object of no value following the steps outlined below. You MUST seal your dies with two pack epoxy paint (eg: Wattyl 7008 floor clear, or Famowood Glaze Coat) otherwise the Gelcoat eats through the PVA into your porous die surfaces and locks your job together so it either won't separate or has stuff sticking all over the Gelcoat. So stop just relying on PVA and use these THREE steps (there are no shortcuts with fiberglassing). 1) Seal your dies/plugs/molds with two pack epoxy paint (NOT one part clear floor varnish). 2) Apply one generous coat of release wax (or cheap floor wax from the supermarket) and don't polish it - the heat of the Gelcoat will melt it smooth. Ignore what release wax instructions & advice say to put five or six coats & polish between each one... wax on wax off... that's not necessary with 95% of jobs. 3) NOW apply a single coat of PVA release. I just brush it on. The only time you DON"T need to seal your die/plug with two pack epoxy is when it is all metal or all plastic having rock hard surfaces that the Gelcoat cannot eat into & penetrate, with no fillers anywhere.
Thank You, I appreciate your help. I'm gonna copy your text, so I don't forget anything.. I haven't used Fiberglass in 30 years, and I'm completely new to molding, but, I guess that's obvious.. :)
Your Videos are fabulous, Thanks again..
you didn't put down where to get the matierals or which ones are the best to use.
Because this is a Masterclass tutorial - and described as that in the opening titles. It's not really a job suitable for a beginner, but rather one for the experienced, and people with that level of experience will know what materials to use and where to get them. So far I've uploaded twenty seven fiberglassing tutorials. Think about this: If I put details about what materials to use and where to get them in EVERY one of those videos it would get bloody boring and make all my films longer than they need to be. All you need to know about the basics of laying up are covered in my FIRST tutorial, which you'll find in my library playlist. I also cannot put where to buy fiberglass materials in my videos because they are watched by people in just about every country in the world. True. So how am I supposed to find out that info for EVERYBODY, and how on earth could I display it all??? If you live near me I am happy to share my supplier with you via messaging... but I don't know which country YOU live in. Aren't you able to just Google search "Fiberglass materials suppliers" in your area? C'mon !
Masterclass?
so I've never done any fiberglass before I've been watching your videos I want to make saddlebags for my bike. but I'm a Potter and something I saw you want to be careful of when mixing the blue sparkles probably best to step away from them when stirring I've used the same kind of things in glaze and a little splash can contaminate the whole batch. obviously, you're seasoned at doing this but this is mainly for people who might not be
Is the resorere from septone the same stuff?
No... but cheap floor wax from your supermarket is.
@@BillsBuildandRace do I need pva release if I'm using wax mould?
You sometimes can get away with only using just one or the other, but experience and recent experiments have conformed for me it is always best to use both. The last thing you want is to have a big battle on your hands to get your work apart because you decided to take a short cut... which has now turned out to be exactly the opposite.
What if I don't have a dash can I just build around the structure
Not sure what you mean by " the structure", or what the end result is that you want. Are you asking "Can I build a dash from scratch tofit my car?"
@@BillsBuildandRace hi I purchased a car and the last owner RIP the dash off because it was falling apart and I would like to build one from scratch
@@joeorton1218 I would build an original dash in tin sheet metal and probably add shaped bits to that base in wood, plastic, bits of other dashes like an instrument pod.. whatever works. Once that sculpture was finished I would then make a fiberglass mold of it, and then my final copy in that mold following all the steps you see me do in this video. But if it's for a road car - with air vents, opening glove box etc. rather than just a simple race car one ... well that would be a very complicated job.
Do you have a web sight? I’m interested in getting a quote for a LHD FC rx7 I live in Florida. And can’t find ppl around here.
The links to my Facebook pages are in the bottom right of the main page pic here (but not visible on some portable devices). I am in Australia - so freight costs kill the practicalities of exporting. The best way to find who you need locally is via the Facebook RX7 enthusiasts pages.
How would you make a Mat finish?
Jordan Kinberg probably flocking the dash like the rally drivers would be best otherwise it’s just a race car paint it mat black
Thank you! It's a nice class!
Fits like it was made for it, you made laugh. Now if I made that I would say, Holy dog balls, it fit!
What you need in step by step tutorial.
I have a few questions about this process
My Facebook links are top right on this schannel's home page. You can messafe me through any of them, or just ask here.
WJP004 I don't see the link. What's your Facebook and ill ad you. I can send you pics of what ive done so far
The home page of this site has a main pic of my Civic race car being towed by a blue Ford. In the bottom right of that pic there is a Google+ icon & two facebook icons. Hit the middle icon.
WJP004 the only icon I see is a little bell. My name is Mike Stas from Florida. See if you can find me in Facebook
The carbon fiber made that dash look like doo-doo. Looks like you have a solid process down though. Other people have a much harder time getting the copy to release from the mold.
so how much dose this job run for these days.
Are you asking me how much it costs to make these dashboards, or how much I sell them for? I can't really tell you how much it would cost YOU to make them because I don't know where you live, nor how much materials cost in your area/country.
How much does that dash weight
About 2kg
good job
Probably gonna make a mold for my 84 gti dash. Then I’ll just use some 4d vinyl wrap to make it look like carbon fiber.
thank yuou so much! i want to make a dash for my rx7 race car as well
Great video!
good video. will help with my elcamino dash however I'm going for show quality and will have to do bondo work after.
Great job
Question was premature should watch whole video first.
I love it
you're awesome hahah :)
Yeah you lost me with the crashes so I skipped this
Hot glue gun is your friend for projects like this