TA does matter, but more so for pools that are running Trichlor tabs and plaster pools. Just use an LSI calculator and delete the mystery. Salt pools naturally move up in pH b/c saltwater is quite alkaline. The best LSI for salt pools is high calcium hardness (300ppm plus) and lower TA (70 minus in low temp water and 80 plus in higher temp water). Trichlor pools have CYA being added. CYA is an acid and so it’ll reduce the pH and carbonate alkalinity. Adding bicarb each week is a must to prevent low pH issues. I’ve never actually seen “wild” pH swings as is normally stated with low TA. That’s a textbook explanation. The reason is b/c pool water constantly has stuff going into it and that’s means the pH will trend in either a high or a low direction (but not “wild” and it’s easily predictable). TA really allows for the pH to remain relatively static when stuff is added to the water. However, it’s more for the carbonates to protect plaster from the water. An LSI balanced with water temp over 80°F, TA over 80ppm and CH over 300ppm is a recipe for salt cells spitting calcium carbonate into the pool. Produces white sediment all over the pool floor. I just let the pH go to 8.0 and balance TA, CH, TDS and CYA according to LSI within 0.25. TA will never control pH. There are feeder systems out there that run thousands of dollars to manage pH. Use TA to protect your plaster by running LSI/CSI balance.
Manage the pH and let the TA settle where it's happy. A non-trichlor pool will almost never need baking soda. LC and SWCG pools with a TA of 50-60 and pH in the high 7s works great.
When I was using trichlor those TA numbers were fine but last year I decided to go with liquid chlorine and rising oh was driving me nuts until I let my TA get to 60 and everything stabilized.
I just adjusted my alkalinity to the perfect level and now increasing ph is causing my alkalinity to spike back up! ph is currently very low. Is it correct that I need to do alkalinity first ?? Confused.
What about real high alkalinity as 200 or more? My pool alkalinity keeps rising on its own. Real hard to get it to lower. My fill water is 90ppm. I don’t have to fill it often.
I have been told that the higher the cyanuric acid level is in the water, the higher the total alkalinity needs to be. Is this true? I live in Texas and use tabs. My cyanuric levels get high fast and I have to drain the pool occasionally. I keep my total alkalinity between 80-120.
I can't say for sure because I don't endorse high CYA. I endorse using unstabilized chlorine and avoiding the CYA problem entirely. I set my CYA between 30 to 50ppm and that is where is stays ( for the most part)
I looked into that but it seems the unstablized chlorine increases total solids and that requires pool draining occasionally. I used liquid chlorine for a few years until it got as expensive (or more) than the tabs.
CYA contributes to total alkalinity, but it’s not carbonate alkalinity. Pool chemistry assumes carbonate alkalinity, so I’m assuming that folks are saying to increase your alkalinity when CYA is present b/c of the add on effect. The best idea is to use an LSI calculator like the one that comes with a Taylor DPD test kit or the Orenda pool chemistry app.
* I am watching Steve while my swimming pool is closed in February because Steve is a reminder of future sunshine and happiness.
Yup above freezing here which is unusual but it’s making me want to open even more. Mid April is when I open in lower Michigan.
Thanks again Steve for helping us novice pool guys 🙏
TA does matter, but more so for pools that are running Trichlor tabs and plaster pools.
Just use an LSI calculator and delete the mystery.
Salt pools naturally move up in pH b/c saltwater is quite alkaline. The best LSI for salt pools is high calcium hardness (300ppm plus) and lower TA (70 minus in low temp water and 80 plus in higher temp water).
Trichlor pools have CYA being added. CYA is an acid and so it’ll reduce the pH and carbonate alkalinity. Adding bicarb each week is a must to prevent low pH issues.
I’ve never actually seen “wild” pH swings as is normally stated with low TA. That’s a textbook explanation. The reason is b/c pool water constantly has stuff going into it and that’s means the pH will trend in either a high or a low direction (but not “wild” and it’s easily predictable).
TA really allows for the pH to remain relatively static when stuff is added to the water.
However, it’s more for the carbonates to protect plaster from the water.
An LSI balanced with water temp over 80°F, TA over 80ppm and CH over 300ppm is a recipe for salt cells spitting calcium carbonate into the pool. Produces white sediment all over the pool floor.
I just let the pH go to 8.0 and balance TA, CH, TDS and CYA according to LSI within 0.25.
TA will never control pH. There are feeder systems out there that run thousands of dollars to manage pH.
Use TA to protect your plaster by running LSI/CSI balance.
Manage the pH and let the TA settle where it's happy. A non-trichlor pool will almost never need baking soda. LC and SWCG pools with a TA of 50-60 and pH in the high 7s works great.
When I was using trichlor those TA numbers were fine but last year I decided to go with liquid chlorine and rising oh was driving me nuts until I let my TA get to 60 and everything stabilized.
I just adjusted my alkalinity to the perfect level and now increasing ph is causing my alkalinity to spike back up! ph is currently very low. Is it correct that I need to do alkalinity first ?? Confused.
What about real high alkalinity as 200 or more? My pool alkalinity keeps rising on its own. Real hard to get it to lower. My fill water is 90ppm. I don’t have to fill it often.
What if the water is crystal clear, but some of the numbers aren’t balanced?
I have been told that the higher the cyanuric acid level is in the water, the higher the total alkalinity needs to be. Is this true? I live in Texas and use tabs. My cyanuric levels get high fast and I have to drain the pool occasionally. I keep my total alkalinity between 80-120.
I can't say for sure because I don't endorse high CYA. I endorse using unstabilized chlorine and avoiding the CYA problem entirely. I set my CYA between 30 to 50ppm and that is where is stays ( for the most part)
I looked into that but it seems the unstablized chlorine increases total solids and that requires pool draining occasionally. I used liquid chlorine for a few years until it got as expensive (or more) than the tabs.
CYA contributes to total alkalinity, but it’s not carbonate alkalinity.
Pool chemistry assumes carbonate alkalinity, so I’m assuming that folks are saying to increase your alkalinity when CYA is present b/c of the add on effect.
The best idea is to use an LSI calculator like the one that comes with a Taylor DPD test kit or the Orenda pool chemistry app.
@@SwimmingpoolsteveI’ll second that! High CYA is not a good idea. I get anxious at anything over 60ppm.
How do adjust the alkalinity?
Up with baking soda and then it goes down when you adjust pH down with acid
Yeah but the hard part is proving this to my workplace leadership lol.