What Type of wood do you choose to build an arcade machine?
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- A quick overview of wood types, their pros and cons, what to look for and what is best for your climate zone. This will give you a really good idea on how to start your arcade machine build.
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diy.retroactiv...
3 years later and still helping ppl. Great vid!
I used structural grade plywood when making my capcom big blue i needed a good grade wood as the amount of weight bearing down from above from a 28" crt and a marquee box etc i needed the strength to keep it up, i did use mdf for the control panel and back door, mdf is really easy to work with and shape and plywood not so unless you have good tools my mini belt sander was a gem when making that, I'm glad i went with plywood though because the machine is rock solid yes i had an issue with wood grain and wood blemishes where the wood was split between grain but what i did was to completely skim the whole cab in wood filler like i was plastering a wall, sanded it all down and the finish was smooth and the grain completely gone, the cabs in my gaming room for about a year now and we have had some really hot weather and cold weather here but the cab is holding nicely.
I'm just about to make another cab and will be using plywood again.
I used MDO for my side panels. Plywood sandwiched by MDF. No grain, less weight. The rest was MDF. Turned out great and is as sturdy as a tank!
The weight of the wood is nice and gives it a quality feel right out of the gate, it's also easier to finish.
MDF swells and stays swollen. MDF chips and no options for repair. Plywood doesn’t have either of these problems. I say either pay extra for quality plywood or don’t let anyone with drinks or combat boots near your arcade machine. I also wanted to add that the raised grain talked about in the video does occur in wood. However, it occurs in wood that is not sealed and remains exposed to outside weather or drastic fluctuations in temperature, humidity, etc... Imagine either a car port or a non-climate controlled storage. I personally have several wooden furnishings that have been in my family for decades. No raised wood grain problems to speak of.
i realize I am quite off topic but do anyone know a good website to watch newly released series online ?
@Yehuda Braxton I would suggest flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Yehuda Braxton i would suggest Flixzone. Just google for it :)
Solid Oak, as used in medieval castles and some of it's still there. You know it makes sense.
Yes, With only true forged nails, from Ye Olde Smithie
Thank you so much for this video. Extremely informative. I am in the process of gathering info for my Arcade build and I was leaning towards MDF so your video has confirmed me that this is the right material.
Helped me with a school project - Thank you very much!
I used plywood for my cabinet, because MDF and particleboard turn to oatmeal if they are exposed to moisture.
Furniture-grade plywood will not delaminate over time as described in this video, except under extreme conditions that would totally destroy paritcleboard or MDF.
Plywood is also nowhere near as heavy as the other two. It's still heavy enough to stay put, but not so heavy that you can't move it if you need to.
I moved house a couple of years ago, and was able to get my arcade machine down the stairs from the second floor all by myself. No way I could have done that if it had been made of MDF or particleboard.
Mdf and particle board can chip or break if bump or even during construction can crack.
This was a really fantastic and informative video! Thank you. It answered a lot of questions I had.
This was actually a really good subject. We've pondered which wood to use, and had some concern over the effects of moisture on MDF, as well as warping on plywood (good both sides). I think that if plywood is used, and its braced well inside (and glued/screwed), it will be less likely to warp, and it is lighter. Also, working with MDF is so dusty. That said, getting an MDF prefab'd is still a good way to go. I also had never heard of MDF made from hardwood particles.... which is cool.
Michelle Pucca whatever you use, a really good coat of paint is critical, even inside
Has anyone ever looked into hemp fiber Board? Wonder if this would also be a good choice.
@@quantumfx2677 😮 if i have access to it, id choose that just for the kicks
mdf works for me. I live in central California and it's dry as fuck here so I don't have to worry about swelling or anything.
Great video I'm halfway thru building mine 2 sides 1 inch mdf the back is aluminium chequer plate and I'm installing 2 shelves underneath its starting to look ok
Pipe dream: Apply Chinese joinery methods to create a super-solid no-screws, no-glue hardwood cabinet with a unique and beautiful look.
u knows that particle board and mdf are susceptible to moisture absorbing and swells up its go for plywood on long side as mdf will not hold up well, but if you must use particle board or mdf you needs to seal both sides with latex primer sealer to keep moisture from wicking in even on edges and those button holes
Thank you, this is just what the explanation I was looking for.
Other than a cnc machine what's the best tool to cut an arcade template? A jigsaw?
I choose hard wood, oak & cedar ECT.. not particle board wood. a nice compact router makes it the best wood to use. I usually find it on the street.
Hardwood is always a good bet but is very costly so I don't advise it when people are looking to do a project on the cheap.
Do normal plans work with solid wood (soft or hard)?
i always use 18mm mdf, built a few arcades and a virtual pinball table all for myself, pinball table is really heavy, took awhile to find some decent paint for finish must of resanded it at least 10 times till i found a decent finish with paint...
I use half inch MDF to make pedestals, and the way I designed it, works pretty well. Only reason I use half inch NOW is cost, and the weight, half inch is easier for me to move around 4x4 foot panels
Did you make a full sized cabinet or a table top? I'm getting ready to build one this weekend and im looking to use 1/2" also.
@@WarMachine_Studios dude my new thing is using half inch for the outer sides and then using particle board for the center peices, half inch is easier to dress up the edges. The particle board gives the cab that beefy weight, and it's not hard to get it to smooth out.
I've built pedestals with just half inch and I've recently done a more modern full size arcade using half inch and 3/4 inch particle board for the cross peices
@@redherring5532 sounds good dude thanks for the info. I definitely like the price point of the half inch vs 3/4". And stability won't be an issue, i've got plenty of 2x4's that i'm going to use for the frame. I've already got a spare screen and my sons old PC that has a GT1030 in it so the only things left are the wood, router bit and t molding.
@@WarMachine_Studios the half inch 4x8 mdf is around 50-60 bucks a sheet, the 3/4 inch PARTICLE board is only like 35 bucks for the 4x8 and it's pretty heavy.
Good luck on the build, sounds awesome.
And whatever you do those 2×4s will keep things in check for sure
@@redherring5532 Thanks man. Yeah the cheapest i can get is he half inch 4x8 for like 26 a sheet. The 3/4 is up to 38 a sheet now. Nah lol.
amazing information subbed and liked
Thank you. I’m trying to build one myself and you brought up some great tips.
Great vid, thankyou!
I have to admit that I am late to building an arcade, but I have to disagree. In what part of Canada is it considered "really humid"? For perspective, I live in Florida. It gets humid here. Every day, it gets to 80 to 100% humidity. Not only when it rains, which it does rain nearly every day in Florida during the summer months, but the overnight humidity even when it doesn't rain can reach 80 to 100%. The lowest it ever gets, is around 40%, and that is only because it's 95 to 97 degrees. Every morning it looks like it rained, even when it hasn't. I consider particle board and fiberboard to be entirely unsuitable for absolutely anything. You could use it for bonfires, but the smoke is toxic. With the exception of marine-grade particle board which is put together with a waterproof adhesive, particle board and fiberboard are unsuitable for this climate, period. Marine grade particle board is not at all the same creature as what you are talking about. It is difficult to come by and EXTREMELY expensive. I only tuned into this video out of curiosity, my mind was already made up. I'm going to use real wood. Solid pine, not particle, and not fiber. Even at that, I intend to paint and seal the wood to (somewhat) protect it from humidity.
Looks like MDF is the way I'm going to go with my scratch-built cabinet...
Hey how did it go? I'm about to start mine from scratch and thinking of going with MDF as well...
@@jamesmcalister1383 how did yours go. I am thinking about particle board or plywood for just the light weight alone. Also I think working ng with MDF is not good on the lungs.
@@stonerpenguin8815 Sadly, I still havent gotten to it. I will be using melamine coated MDF though. You're right about the MDF being bad for the lungs, so I will be doing it outside with a mask on.. You gna build one?
@@jamesmcalister1383 Very soon I will. I was able to salvage parts from a older neo geo that suffered water damage so I will be doing something different than the actual cabinet itself. Will drop you a link when it's done. As far as MDF is concerned it's the routing for the T-molding that's truly killer so I suggest to keep any pets inside.
@@stonerpenguin8815 Oh yeah definitely. Good score on the Neo Geo I love those cabs! I found an old cocktail-table style cabinet on the side of the road. Not sure what I'm gna do yet with it. Probably make it a mame cab once I'm done with the standup one. Yeah man let me know how it goes! Would love to see pics!
Wonderful information thank you. I’d like to build my own cocktail cabinet and I’m liking the look of stained wood. I assume I would need to go plywood to get that then. What wood would you recommend for this project given your concerns about plywood? Plywood birch? Solid oak? Cherry?
I only see particle board used in cheap furniture. Definitely will not hold in a screw if u unscrew it.
Wooden boats don't use MDF or particle board...
Where would you go to buy high end particle boards?
So since since you're using manufactured sheeting how would you get a woodgrain look if that's what's requested? Decals? Arborite?
Veneer
and yet they tell me on their Facebook page they use real wood…….
We would use an veneer or actual hardwood, laminated MDF etc. Then stain and clear lacquer finish it.
I agree with using mdf, all the cabinets I build are sitting on casters, just to give them a little extra protection just in case of water ect... also I like to put LED strips on the bottom to give it a little glow underneath.
I appreciate all your videos, I live in Bellingham WA just across the boarder, I believe you guys are based in Vancouver correct? If I was ever to make a trip up there what are the odds of having a tour of your shop?
We are in Edmonton Alberta which is one province over so it is a bit more of a haul but we you are always welcome!
Use marine grade plywood?
Homefront everything depends on the climate you live in, if your coastal that would be a great option, if you are central it might be a bit of overkill. If you are going to use plywood be sure it is hi quality and very dense.
HI! i live in canada so the worry i have is the climate, im planing on building a bartop arcade system housing a 19" screen with a raspberry pi (lightweight electronics theoretically), so they system isint going to be huge, but was wondering with our climate would the lightweight MDF be fine for a project like this? the bartop will be moved from house to house every now and then, im trying to keep it lighter for easier transport. thanks!!!
Yes its all good, just be sure to seal it (especially the edges) with paint or primer and it will be fine.
So wich one should i get?
So plywood is stronger to hold a crt tv?
Would you build a full arcade machine with 1/2 inch MDF vs 3/4 MDF? Please explain. Thanks!
I would never build any cabinet with 1/2" anything to be honest, but if your reasoning is to keep it light you can make it with 5/8" MDF. 3/4" is what traditional cabinets are made with. The thicker it is the more ridged it will be, less chance of warping etc. It will be heavier ofcourse but these days we use lcd monitors instead of CRT's so you need the weight so it won't tip or move around while your playing.
whats the best way to cut this wood properly if you do not have a table saw?
The best way to cut out your shapes is to draw out a template on cardboard or something that is ridged and cut it out as nice as possible. Trace that out on your sheet and cut it out with a jig saw. Then sand down your edges to get the nice shape/size you want. If you want two pcs the same, eg. side profiles, then trace your finished pc on a fresh pc of wood and cut it out about a quarter of an inch away from the line. Clamp them together and use a router to cut along your good pc to match them exactly. Straight cuts for your center pcs will be harder but you can do the same thing with a straight edge clamped to you work along your straight line edge and sand it down to get your straight edges. Hope that makes sense.
Particle board is the worse material for any kind of work laminated or not. Plywood is far the best material if its laminated for arcade cabinets.
Everyone and their grandmother seems to agree with you, including the better part of a dozen carpenters I know from family and friends alike. Partical board is almost universally considered cheap garbage.
I'm making my arcade cabinet out of oriented strand board. I already bought the pcs and cut them. I was going for cheap..but was that a bad choice ?
Ya, OSB is very fragile, it will slowly break apart on you, especially with the force of constant playing on the machine. It is not very sturdy by itself, it is mainly used to sheet houses because it has a lot of air pockets so it can dry out or expand with the humidity in the air throughout the seasons. It is also a pain in the ass to paint! I would use regular plywood before using that stuff but you could use your cutout pieces as a template for another material, then you still have a template for your next build!
@@RetroactivearcadeCa wrong. OSB is extremely sturdy, it's used for roofs, it has to be strong enough for people to stand on it during installation.
Thank you for the video - very timely in my case. Do you think laminate (formica) over either plywood or particle board is a good solution too? I'm sure in you case its not cost effective for production work - but as a one-off? Thx.
Formica will work great to protect your wood but it will also make it thicker, in that case your T-Mold might not cover the edges completely so watch out for that. Try a test piece first if you can.
Thanks - I was a little concerned about laminating single side and warping... But I'm over thinking it. I'll likely use plywood. Thanks for the great videos.
Partical board can't be sanded and is not smooth. If you apply side art will it be uneven or will it appear smooth?
You might be thinking OSB board? Particle board is used in cabinetry because it is dense, smooth and easy to sand.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa Yeah I think you're right. I will use particle board on my build then or maybe plywood. I just Don't want to have a heavy arcade like my neo geo Arcade. Thanks and great channel btw
@@stonerpenguin8815 yes, particularly board is a lot lighter than MDF and better than plywood for painting and decals. It isn't the best for moisture but unless you have a flood it shouldn't be a problem.
@@RetroactivearcadeCaI will give it a good sand then apply side art. As for the water problem I hope to put the arcade on wheels to elevate the wood a couple of inches and hopefully I can catch it in time and easly move it. Well Particle board it is then. Thnx man you're a true legend.
@@stonerpenguin8815 after you sand it you have to prime it, then sand it smoothe again. Then paint it with something shiney or that has a glossy or satin finish to it. Let it dry completely and then put on your decal. DO NOT put your decal directly on raw wood! It will suck all the moisture out of your decal and it's adhesive. Good luck!
Was think of use oak wood as got lots of it would it be ok or not plz ?
If the sheets are not warped and 5/8" or thicker it will work fine. Heavy as hell but fine.
Thank you for reply
Particle board/ IKEA is absolutely garbage. Especially for industrial use
What do u think about using pine wood
I would stay away, its on the low end of all the woods you could choose. It will warp like crazy over time.
This video should be renamed to: How to say "Stuff like that" or "and stuff" as many times as humanly possible in 13 minutes and 23 seconds. 😂
lol deckle
MEL-a-mine
lcd arcades, yuck
LCD is just fine, thanks to filters and various shaders they can look almost identical to the old CRTs. They don't make CRTs anymore, so within the next decade or so your going to HAVE to get used to LCDs/
I love the look of CRT, but sooner or later we have to accept LED or LCD as the new standard. CRT's are not made anymore so all you can do is recover old ones. I'm fine to do that for my genuine arcade games, but building a new dedicated mame cab, LED/LCD is the way I'll go and save the CRT for my dedicated Outrun machine or the like.
I have a CRT cabinet, and I love it, but I am now building a flatscreen cab too. My 20+ year old, 70+ lbs Wells Gardner is not going to live forever. Shaders have vastly improved, flatscreens are much lighter, OLEDs will get cheap, and I can do a slim/wall-mount build with a rotating screen that looks good and doesn't eat up an entire room. Plus my big heavy "authentic" CRT cab is still in the garage after being completed for nearly a year. It's just so massive.