How To Install A Cue Tip: By Hand (큐팁 교체하는 방법)
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- 00:00 - Introduction
01:00 - Equipment Used
03:40 - Removing the Old Tip
08:00 - Cleaning the Ferrule
14:20 - Applying the Tip
25:30 - Trimming the Sides
32:10 - Shaping the Tip
38:00 - Final Trimming and Shaping
47:40 - Smoothing the Sides of the Tip
54:40 - Burnishing the Tip
58:00 - Final Results
Installing a pool cue tip:
This is my method for installing a tip by hand.
Equipment used:
Sandpaper
Willard Tip Shaper
Masking Tape
File
Loctite Control Gel
Sharp Blade
Wet Wipes / Paper Towel
Kamui Gator Grip
Zan Hybrid Max Tip - Спорт
One day i could buy a cue stick, thank you for your video
I didn't understand why you would put tape three layers deep, but then it all made sense when you said that you managed to squirt super glue in your eye. 😂 Great job. That tip looked stellar! 👌
Get the cheap $10 ferral flattening tool to ensure adhesive is removed and it's perfectly perpendicular and flat to the shaft. Not the crazy ass spinny sanding thing. Just the yellow thing with triangular piece coming out and round sand paper base. This is a godsend for hand installation if you plan on testing different tips.
I just successfully installed my first tip the other day lol but I decided I want a layered tip on my main cue and I think I will install it. Maybe this will give me the confidence to take a shot at installing an high dollar tip
excellent job you have given me the confidence to know i can change a cue tip on a carbon fiber shaft if i needed to
Awesome! I know a lot of people really worry about changing their own tip, but if you’re careful and patient it’s very doable.
Great video on replacing a layered tip thank you
Hey, great video, just one additional note: using the "fire making" technique where you put the Willard on the ground and spin the shaft in it is prone to making your Willard useless much quicker than it should. And that's because the temperature of the leather particles gets so high that it glazes over inside the Willard, and you can hardly get that out afterwards, if at all. Using it with the Willard inside your hand and twisting the shaft (and maybe also the hand) one way and back is the "correct" way to do it, like you first showed. It actually doesn't take that much longer, if you apply a good amount of pressure while twisting to and fro.
Thank you very much for making this video 👍
That was pretty good, man!
This was therapeutic lol. You have the patience of a god LMAO Great loooking tip by the way.
... I was thinking anal ( 🤪 ) just kidding, but I agree - patience of a saint. I have a friend who is the same way with his leather work (and everything else for that matter). Excellent results.
Finally a good video on the subject (for a beginner). A bit too long for my taste, but good demonstration.
I do the same using an Exacto knife! Been replacing my own tips for years now since my cue mechanic passed away in 2017
Very good result indeed. Just to add a suggestion about the glue : all the glues are different, the best option for tips is glues with some rubber in their formula (like Super Glu 3 pro) because that kind of glu handles better the shocks, torsions, light moves of the tip during the play.
Great point!
This video is absolutely perfect. Thank you for taking the time to show your way. I now am 100% confident i can do it. Again thank you I really appreciated this one
Thanks for the kind words! I know it was a long one, but I really wanted to show every little detail, rather than give the impression it only takes 5 minutes to retip a cue by hand :)
@@jejucue-6176 it was perfect. There is a big difference between long full of details and long full of pointless nonsense. Yours was perfect
@@jejucue-6176 I wish I could show you how well my tip turned out.
Hello sir. An excellent video to be sure. My only exception to your method is I use the exact size of tip to fit my shaft which is a 13 mm. I may get a little glue on my fingers but I wipe it away instantly. Other than that I follow your way to a tee. Thank you very much for the video. Cheers👍😊
I give you a tip for trimming to the ferrule. It would be easier to use a kiridashi knife, leather knife or a plane blade sharpened very sharp since they are wedge blades.
Bighelp man
you CAN install tips by hand, but I pretty much guarantee, they won't be perfect. I used to do them by hand too n yeah they looked ok n worked. But once I got a mini-lathe n spun a tip I had done by hand I saw the run-out! You can only see it when you spin something. You only get accurate concentricity by turning the tip on a lathe.
Use a fine tooth file that u might have in your tool box in the garage to shape your tip. So much faster and easier. Practice on your old tip before you remove it....to get the right wrist and rolling of the shaft motion. U end up with a perfect tip shape in about 1 minute and the file will never wear out. Do a final shape and scuff with your little gadget shapers.
Great voice to fall asleep to lol . Good job tho!!
With the white feral there is one problem it interferes with line of sight as only can work on light ended cues but not seen any professional player use them. Brass and dark feral yes. Very interesting though.
i needed a new Tip on my cue & i wanted a 8mm Ferrule i used a old Brass Dart i sawed the end of the dart screwed it on my cue sanded my cue, immaculate job, tools needed sandpaper, small knife, super glue, new tip,
You didn't list the chalk you use that you can't recommend enough. Couldn't quite get the name. Thanks for this great video.
Found it. Taom Pyro Chalk
Sorry, late to reply. Bingo: Taom Pyro. The Taom snooker (green) chalk is just as good. Either of them will save you a lot of time getting chalk out of the cloth and off the balls.
I have the same tool, the willard tip shaper, i srewed one of them to the wall at a slight upwoard angle, so i can push the cue in and twist it with both my hands while the debree is falling out by it self. i think that works great and you dont have to stop till youre tip is finished, then just blow out the rest of the debree and youre good to go ;-) also you can allways reshape when needed, even while playing just a few quick twists and its perfect dime again.
Hahaha, that’s an awesome idea for a spare shaper!
To center your tip perfectly drop it into a deep well 14mm 6 sided socket. Tape the shaft and ferrule to the same 14mm diameter as the tip. I hate not having a perfectly centered tip.
This is brilliant!
nice job brother ilike
If the tip is the kamui clear, can we cut the clear pad also?
whats the number on that sand paper, is it a 800 or 300 or 1000 or 2000?
👍👍
Can you use willard tip shaper for snooker cues?Tia
How many leyerd available change the tip?
Well explained ......but while shaping the tip , you can always use a sharpener . It’s a lot easier , faster , safer........ try it out
Great tip!
true. the brand Longoni has released an updated version which prevents user from cutting into their ferrule as well. great piece of equipment when trimming a tip
cheers mate;) - I do manual retipping myself and I have came up with a very similar process. Started it for exactly the level of satisfaction I get by doing it myself (and also because I like really glossy finish on the ferrule and tip, so it kinda became my style;)
Tools I use:
- spray bottles with Water and lab grade Isopropanol for cleaning - does the job pretty well. I have also used Isopropanol for regularly cleaning my wooden shafts after every play session = zero issues! I usually spray a soft tissue and then just rub all the dirt on the shaft onto the tissue.
- 2 Kiridashi single bevel knifes for cutting the tip (it's more work, since you need to keep them as sharp as razor blade or sharper, but I like to use them, since the single bevel doesn't have any flex at all, in contrast to the razor blades, and make the job of cutting easier and more precise for me)
- Last4Ever Tool to get the dome (also have the willard tip tool and the Kamui Gator grip, but the Last4Ever get's this tedious job done faster)
- Pattex Ultra Gel (I also like to use the gel version for the extra time it give you + I feel the Pattex Ultra Gel is slightly more elastic when fully dried out, so gives your more margin for error - which you need if you have no lathe + it doesn't take very long;) - I am also very paranoid regarding tips not glued properly, so I keep my glue as fresh as possible: I note the day I opened a glue bottle, then after use I vacuum seal the Glue and store it in my refridgerator - works like a charm - I also like to use the smalles size bottles for the same reason: never letting the glue get too old
- sandpaper for sanding+polishing everything (I have a grit progression of: 400 -> 600 -> 800 -> 1000 -> 1200 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 3000 -> 5000 -> 7000 -> 10k), 400 to 800 is the coarse range, for corrections to the angle of the tip, for sanding out scratches in the ferrule, for correcting things in the shaft wood etc. 1000 to 1500 is the fine sanding range, mainly to smooth out the results of the coarse range (also also to clean the shaft if the coarse range isn't neccessary) - the 1500 is also the last one I apply to the shaft wood itself, before sealing it - from 2000 to 10k is only used on the ferrule and the tip, to achieve my signature polish. 2000 is the last one that really "sands" anything, from 3000 to 10k they only polish. From my experience in sharpening knifes I know it is important to keep a tight grit progression, better to spend only a little time per paper and have smaller increments in gritsize. This way you get smoother results and you only take of the absolute neccessary amount of material. To get a good matte finish, I would stop at grit 1500 - 2000 and then only burnish the sides with a soft leather (like this Kamui leather strip) - that will suffice - but if you really want to go nearly mirror gloss finish, you need to take the slow way and work the way from 2k grit all the way up to 10k grit. After 10k grit I also use 2 fine compounds (which I use for knife finishing) only soft tissue paper and polish the ferrule and tip. The compound really elevates everything and makes the shine even better. Last step I usually seal the shaft with Longoni Cue Wax (I found it to be a nice wax for cues, one could certainly substitute for something else) and rub it until it's hot with super soft Leather.
For me the most crucial part is the glueing of the tip itself:
- I cut down the old tip by placing the shaft against a light source, finding the edge, cutting just a little bit with the kiridashi knife, then rotating the shaft and keep cutting radially in small increment and by holding it against the light I ensure that I never go into the ferrule. Once your deep enough, you can just pop the tip like you did.
- I use the same technique to remove any residual tip parts on the ferrule, but with the kiridashi: placing it flush onto the surface and then rotating the shaft slowly until everything is off. It's super crucial not to rush this process, in order to keep the ferrule 100% flat
- check the flatness of the ferrule against the light as well. Usuall with my kiridashi, since I sharpen it to a very flat bevel - but this instance I sometimes use razor blades to check the flatness as well, just to have a reference that I know is 100% flat
- I used to sand the tip too, only problem is: sometimes it's difficult to ensure 100% flatness when doing so - naturally, the edges tend to be just a tiny bit curved - to combat this I actually flatten them the same way as the tip: using the kiridashi - I developed a technique for myself to place the tip on the kiridashi's bevel and rotate it slowly
- I always check both ferrule + tip against the light, very much like you do, to see for any cracks of light. Now the leather tip is a bit flexible, so one has a bit of margin for error. But usually you can feel if the tip and ferrule are flush enough: when placing the tip onto the ferrule surface, if you get this certain feedback, almost like a super mini sucion effect from the tip onto the surface - then you know you did a good job and both surfaces are level enough for the glueing. After you do a couple of tips you can feel when it's flush enough. You can also check like this: when placing the tip onto the surface and just letting it rest there, remove your hand, you can normally see some very very tiny cracks of light shining through - that is ok - when you then just put your finger on top of the tip, no pressure, just rest your finger on top: when the cracks disappear, then it's good enough. The flexibility of the leather tip together with the little flex from using a gel based super glue will take care of everything and keep it 100% flush without iternal stress.
- then comes the iffy part: depositing the glue and pressing down - I found I would mostly fuck up on this stage but I also found that after a while you can feel, if the glueing was successful or not. Also this is the last stage, where you still can go back and correct something. After this it's 100% commit to the glueing part. I also squeeze out a little bit out of the bottle and only use the fresh bit after that for the glueing. Freshness is key, suppress as much unneccessary polymerization as possible with the glue. Amount of glue is also kind of a feeling thing: after some tips you know what a good amount is. It should squeeze out a little to the side - if it doesn't squeeze out, you risk using not enough glue and potentially an air bubble - but if it's so much glue, that the tip is floating easily on the surface without any friction then you used too much. You aim for something in the middle, where you can feel a gentle suction between Tip and Surface. Then you are ready to commit and press down (since the hardening of these gel based superglues is mostly dependent on final pressure, you want to push hard but controlled) - you can check with your fingers: if you can feel a slightly warm sensation around the area of the glue, then you are probably doing a great job. I apply pressure for only 1 min or so and then check if the glueing is good: I push on the side of the tip and I also screw the shaft onto the cue and then with the full weight of the cue I let the tip bounce of the floor at different angles and check for the sound and the resonance in my hand. For me personally it was very reliable so far. At this point I could usually spot any bad installation on my part.
- after I tediously grind the dome shape of the tip I check again by bouncing the tip on the floor at any angle. When I'm satisfied I usually let the shaft rest for 1h (just extra safety measure to make sure the glue is at it's end-hardness) before I proceed to cut and trim and polish the tip using the process described above.
Right now: quite happy with this process. Especially on carbon shafts or shafts with small plate-style ferrules. My only problem is: to this day I struggle to grind and polish a normal wooden shaft and ensuring a 100% flush transition from wood to ferrule to tip. When sanding a shaft by hand, I just haven't found a reliable way to ensure 100% flushness (I am kinda careful with the sanding and when I work on a shaft that had a 100% flush transition before my job, I usually can preserve it) - but for example for used shafts that already have a subpar transition from wood to shaft, there is little I can do. The thing is: if you only aim for a matte finish: don't go beyond grit 1500 - then transitions seem pretty good - but once you up the numbers on the ferrule and tip, once you go beyond grit 5000, you can really feel every single imperfection much better and if using 3 fingers and slowly go up and down the transition, you can really feel it is like 0.01 mm of or not, human touch is really incredible;) - - - drives me crazy that I haven't figured out a way to ensure a 100% good transition. I suppose it's in the nature of the matter, as you are sanding materials with different densities (wood and usually a kind of plastic or phenolic for ferrule) simultaneously and this is tough without a lathe. So: don't really know what to do here...
regarding burnishing: in my "polishing" process with the small step increases in the grit of the sandpaper, it leads to a smooth transition between sanding -> burnishing -> polishing. I usually do the saliva + leather quick burnish either after grit 1500 or grit 2000. But by that time, the result isn't good enough, so I still need to polish the sides to my mirror finish using the rest of the sandpapers. You can also apply heat with a soft leather strip in between every polishing step if you want (even though after grit 3000 every sandpaper will micro burnish by itself a little)
I think you have the record for longest comment lol. Nice directions too.
@@clicgear100 UA-cam commentary section = free real estate^^
Donde se consigue esa punta de kamui
I found that investing in a good coffee mill and espresso machine is essential for installing cue tips properly. N.B. These can be used for other projectes as well.
Just a tip for people who don't use utility knives very often; for this kind of work, a good quality tool makes a big difference. Also, sharp clean blades are priceless.
I find that most blades are not as sharp as they should be. I recommend getting a small diamond sharpening stone and learning some simple sharpen/hone techniques.
(warning, sharpening blades/knives is highly addictive. Make sure to tell your partners/roommate(s) when you sharpen all of your dull kitchen knives. :)
Great vid. excellent video and audio quality as well clear and concise explanation.
Excellent video. Will you please post the advertised diameter mm and then measure the actual diameter with calipers at the ferrule and post the results. Trying to discern which companies are maintaining accurate diameters with Carbon Fiber.
Best,
T
No need to finish it perfectly. First couple of weeks playing with it and it will mushroom a bit. After that happened then do the perfect finish of the tip side. Else you have to do it twice. Just my 5 cents.
spot on
What grit of the sandpaper?
I usually start with around 400 and then get down to about 800-1000. You don’t want the final surface of the tip to be too smooth. A bit of roughage helps the tip hold the chalk :)
WEAR EYE PRO when using CA.
You have to take down the tip more, it's to much leather now 😂😂😂
If that was handed back to me by my cue mechanic (which it wouldn’t because my mechanic is good), it would be handed back to him, cut off, and another new one put on. That taper on the tip is not something a good player would ever accept. For a regular club player, this might be acceptable.
Cue tip brand?
Zan Hybrid max
Use Gorilla glue, the best.
i got a tip try using the exact size tip save you loads of time lol
Un necissarily long.
Thank you for the tip exchange video.
I am Korean. Unfortunately, the bill you are using is 1,000 won in Korean currency. As a Korean, it is uncomfortable to watch videos. I'd appreciate it if you could stop using the 1,000 won note.
using a razor blade for trimming the sides is absolutely wrong. you never get a flush edge to the ferrule with a knicked cutting edge. i always need a straight cutting edge from a scissors or a chisel.
돈가지고..하필돈가지고... 광택을내는지.ㅉㅉ
54:23 남의 나라 화폐를 가지고 뭐하는 짓임?
Too much words, just do it. Please don't touch surfaces after sanding with bare hands. You pollute your glueing surface with skin grease. If you don't believe me, just touch the windows at home with your fingers. What do see?
The tip looks very nice and shiny, but it is taperd, the utter tip diameter is smaller than the ferule diameter.
You talk to much, just do it already!!!