Best from underneath. TAke the plastic shield from below the transmission pan off, using 8mm wrench. Look above the starter and the LH fwd drive shaft and you'll see the plug on the driver side where the engine meets the transmission. It's at the 10 oclock position, just like on the Sprinter. I have a GL350,2013. crankshaft position sensor.
Super info, I was looking for the reason for almost 1 year the pressure was going on with my S550 and FINALLY I know the Crankschaft sensor !!! I have a question, how to replace this sensor in S550 2007 as soon as possible?
Hi, I just watched the video today and decided to test my sensor....my sensor reads 1021ohms with engine at around 80 degrees ( after a drive, and letting the engine cooling down)....car is 1993 W124 400E....So, is it normal?????
I have a W203, 2005 Mercedes-Benz C320 4 Matic. I have replaced the fuel pump recently, and both the crank angle sensor and the camshaft position sensor the car still turns over but does not start. I’ve had an intermittent time or the car will start and then sometimes it won’t start, now it doesn’t start at all. Last week I had to have the car towed home because it just stalledt for no apparent reason and then would not start at all.
I just checked resistance/Ohms on my 95 S320.... and the reading I'm getting is 828 Ohms cold. I've replaced throttle body, fuel pumps, fuel pump relay, fixed one large vacuum leak where the pipe from the master cylinder booster goes into the intake manifold, as well as put a clamp (temporarily) on the line that goes to the changeover valves on the front of the block that work the ERG and Air pump valves. neither of those leak on their own but the valves sure as hell are leaking. The car is now stalling, prior to last week I was able to basically nurse the car along.... keeping it from stalling at intersections by basically wearing on the transmission keeping RPMs up... when at highway speeds it was mostly okay though it would feel jittery at times. When I did stall it it would immediately start back up, but this Friday it stopped doing that leaving me blocking gobs of traffic a couple times. I just got the replacement (used) throttle body in on Friday and changed that out. I thought it was working again now able to idle but I took it about quarter mile down the street from my house when it just stalled and died. I could get it to start periodically by basically milking the throttle back and forth... like tapping it to the floor having it periodically increase RPM's until I had something I could work with... from there I drove the car in reverse.... then went through that whole routine again to get it to drive itself up my short driveway and into the garage. I just ordered a new CPS but based on what you're saying... that's not the problem. Starting it cold it starts up like normal, with slightly higher rpms like usual... then within about 5 seconds rpms drop and it dies. Any ideas? Sorry to bug ya but I just thought I'd try since it looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get into another stupid car payment again (have been without them for a good few years now). If you happen to reply or not thank you for your time and posting that video that I'm sure will help many milking more miles out of our old benzes.
Hmmmm! Well, I was sure that this is what is going on with my 1988 260E but now, I'm not so sure! Here's what happened...the car had been sitting outside for one week in a city about 30 minutes away. I had traveled maybe 15 minutes and was on the interstate going 70-75 mph when all of a sudden, with no warning whatsoever power was gone. Nothing. I coasted over to the righthand berm where it stopped 3/4 the way up an exit ramp. I checked fuses. Fuel pumps cycled when turning the key to the ON position. It simply refuses to 'fire' even a little. I ran across an article that was seemingly pointing me in that direction but then I checked the continuity on the sensor and got reading of ~ 700 ohms. I have all new tune up parts including wires, distr cap, button, and sprk plgs. It definitely was needing that but haven't had time to put them on. I'd be shocked if THAT'S all it was but I don't think what happened was/is a symptom of these M103 engines needing a tune up. Please feel free to chime in with any relavent suggestions! Thanks Pierre, you're the best!
Because he doesn’t actually show you where to find the sensor most people come here because they don’t know what it is and they are trying to find it to fix it
Hello, adem trucking and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible. By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre. If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
What if you squirt a bit of petrol/quick start directly into the air intake and it fires and runs of for a couple of seconds? I think that suggests that the ignition is ok?
Hello sir I'm working on my 1986 mercedes 560 sec with 5.6 motor found the answer to why my benz just stop running 24 hours later it ran but shut off again crank position sensor 1100+ ^ so I got the 5mm screw out and began to lift it out and broke off in its bell housing spot location im trying to figure how to get it out so stop trying dont want to hurt my baby by doing something wrong do you have any ideas that would help me further?
I recommend to use some strong epoxy on a metal rod or stick and let it cure for a day or two to make sure its completely cured and hardened and it will for sure be hard enough to pull it out
Question.. the ignition module that the crankshaft sensor plugs into, has a plug cap that has a #2 on it.. is this for a 2nd Crankshaft sensor ? or what was it's purpose ? is the module used on other models ? I'm curious to know more about it. I am pretty sure my crankshaft sensor is going bad, it'll start and run fine for a while, but if you turn it off, it will not restart until it cools off for an hour or so. I have learned that there is only a few items that will keep an engine from starting, crankshaft being one of them for sure.
Hello, +Ray S. and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible. By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre. If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
it's for a knock sensor. you may have a bad crank pos. sensor. Measure the resistance between the inner and oute rpin of the sensor. It should be between 600 and 1100 ohm
Hey so do you have any more pictures of the location of this sensor? We’ve been digging around under my 1994 Mercedes e420 for quite some time and have been unable to locate this part...
Hello, I have no problem starting the car in the morning, but after that, when I drive the car with the A/C or even the fan on for a couple of hours, and then turn it off, when trying to turn the car back on, it wont start. I have to wait about half hour or so, and then it will start. It only happens when I have the AC or fan on prior to the non-start incident. Am I dealing with the CPS here? Thanks a lot for your time guys.
Check the fuses relays related to fuel pump. After that check wiring from fuse box to the fuel pump To check the connectivity plug a lamp in one side and connect 12v on the other side The sides i mean the socket to the fuel pump and the other side is where the relay is located Or if you have a DMM just jump the relay and check connectivity on the socket of the pump Good luck
My my son just bought a 2006 e350 it ran great , he drove it over 25 miles with know problem then in the morning the car wouldnt start It would just crack crank crank but not turn over We tried the fuses and relays Any idea I know how the hell can you solve the problem without seeing the car but Hey you never know , thanks
unfortunately these high tech cars are not well understood by me. I have little experience with them. perhaps try the crankshaft position sensor, but this is a long shot and i think it is most likely that you have a key related security issue.
Disconnect the battery, turn the light switch on with the battery disconnected. Leave it like that for half an hour, then reconnect the battery. If it's a minor hiccup that the computer found that can get it running again by refreshing it.
For a part that fails so readily it would have been nice of mercedes to make it a bit more accessible.
I forgot to leave you a thanks a long time ago, you described the problem that I Had perfectly a few years back.
Thanks Pierre- very interesting and useful to know these things.
anytime!
Best from underneath. TAke the plastic shield from below the transmission pan off, using 8mm wrench. Look above the starter and the LH fwd drive shaft and you'll see the plug on the driver side where the engine meets the transmission. It's at the 10 oclock position, just like on the Sprinter. I have a GL350,2013. crankshaft position sensor.
Super info, I was looking for the reason for almost 1 year the pressure was going on with my S550 and FINALLY I know the Crankschaft sensor !!! I have a question, how to replace this sensor in S550 2007 as soon as possible?
Hi, I just watched the video today and decided to test my sensor....my sensor reads 1021ohms with engine at around 80 degrees ( after a drive, and letting the engine cooling down)....car is 1993 W124 400E....So, is it normal?????
Very nice video. Keep making them Pierre
I have a W203, 2005 Mercedes-Benz C320 4 Matic. I have replaced the fuel pump recently, and both the crank angle sensor and the camshaft position sensor the car still turns over but does not start. I’ve had an intermittent time or the car will start and then sometimes it won’t start, now it doesn’t start at all. Last week I had to have the car towed home because it just stalledt for no apparent reason and then would not start at all.
Check the 40 ohms fuses
I learned to do all my own work i love it
Can it go bad without a check engine light
i don't know where to locate the Crankshaft Position Sensor for a MercedesBenz SLK230 KOMPRESSOR '98. Can anyone help?
thank you
Mine starts fine when cold start when it gets warm doesnt start it will crank only
Hello why my 190e breaks the crankshaft p sensor
Thanks!
Will code p0336 show up even if its nit the sensor itself or can it be something else because i replaced the sensor and it still won't start.
I just checked resistance/Ohms on my 95 S320.... and the reading I'm getting is 828 Ohms cold. I've replaced throttle body, fuel pumps, fuel pump relay, fixed one large vacuum leak where the pipe from the master cylinder booster goes into the intake manifold, as well as put a clamp (temporarily) on the line that goes to the changeover valves on the front of the block that work the ERG and Air pump valves. neither of those leak on their own but the valves sure as hell are leaking. The car is now stalling, prior to last week I was able to basically nurse the car along.... keeping it from stalling at intersections by basically wearing on the transmission keeping RPMs up... when at highway speeds it was mostly okay though it would feel jittery at times. When I did stall it it would immediately start back up, but this Friday it stopped doing that leaving me blocking gobs of traffic a couple times. I just got the replacement (used) throttle body in on Friday and changed that out. I thought it was working again now able to idle but I took it about quarter mile down the street from my house when it just stalled and died. I could get it to start periodically by basically milking the throttle back and forth... like tapping it to the floor having it periodically increase RPM's until I had something I could work with... from there I drove the car in reverse.... then went through that whole routine again to get it to drive itself up my short driveway and into the garage. I just ordered a new CPS but based on what you're saying... that's not the problem. Starting it cold it starts up like normal, with slightly higher rpms like usual... then within about 5 seconds rpms drop and it dies. Any ideas? Sorry to bug ya but I just thought I'd try since it looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get into another stupid car payment again (have been without them for a good few years now). If you happen to reply or not thank you for your time and posting that video that I'm sure will help many milking more miles out of our old benzes.
this is a tough scenerio...how is your engine wirirng harness?
Cooling temp sensor yet?
Hmmmm! Well, I was sure that this is what is going on with my 1988 260E but now, I'm not so sure! Here's what happened...the car had been sitting outside for one week in a city about 30 minutes away. I had traveled maybe 15 minutes and was on the interstate going 70-75 mph when all of a sudden, with no warning whatsoever power was gone. Nothing. I coasted over to the righthand berm where it stopped 3/4 the way up an exit ramp. I checked fuses. Fuel pumps cycled when turning the key to the ON position. It simply refuses to 'fire' even a little.
I ran across an article that was seemingly pointing me in that direction but then I checked the continuity on the sensor and got reading of ~ 700 ohms.
I have all new tune up parts including wires, distr cap, button, and sprk plgs. It definitely was needing that but haven't had time to put them on. I'd be shocked if THAT'S all it was but I don't think what happened was/is a symptom of these M103 engines needing a tune up. Please feel free to chime in with any relavent suggestions! Thanks Pierre, you're the best!
That's why I roll a diesel.
Good night Pierre! My 1976 Mercedes D-Jetronic doesn't work. Can it be Crankshaft Position Sensor?
I'm trying to understand why anyone would 'thumbs-down' this video....just curious...
lol maybe they were holding their phone screen while replacing their crankshaft position sensor
don't have a car perhaps?
Because he doesn’t actually show you where to find the sensor most people come here because they don’t know what it is and they are trying to find it to fix it
@@sixfoursoul2538 well simply ask him on here. He seems very approachable to me.
Good info.
my 190E2.6 gas 1993 Mercedes why its keep breaking my crankshaft position sensor i cant get it to start every time i put in a new one will break at
Hello, adem trucking and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
What if you squirt a bit of petrol/quick start directly into the air intake and it fires and runs of for a couple of seconds? I think that suggests that the ignition is ok?
That would mean you have a fuel issue
Please film the location.
Hello sir I'm working on my 1986 mercedes 560 sec with 5.6 motor found the answer to why my benz just stop running 24 hours later it ran but shut off again crank position sensor 1100+ ^ so I got the 5mm screw out and began to lift it out and broke off in its bell housing spot location im trying to figure how to get it out so stop trying dont want to hurt my baby by doing something wrong do you have any ideas that would help me further?
I recommend to use some strong epoxy on a metal rod or stick and let it cure for a day or two to make sure its completely cured and hardened and it will for sure be hard enough to pull it out
does my crank sensor read the teeth in my ring gear or the curved metal in my ring gear?
Mercedes Ml350 cracking but not start bang 1 ignition good bang2 not ignition
Question.. the ignition module that the crankshaft sensor plugs into, has a plug cap that has a #2 on it..
is this for a 2nd Crankshaft sensor ? or what was it's purpose ? is the module used on other models ?
I'm curious to know more about it. I am pretty sure my crankshaft sensor is going bad, it'll start and run fine for a while, but if you turn it off, it will not restart until it cools off for an hour or so. I have learned that there is only a few items that will keep an engine from starting, crankshaft being one of them for sure.
Hello, +Ray S. and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
it's for a knock sensor. you may have a bad crank pos. sensor. Measure the resistance between the inner and oute rpin of the sensor. It should be between 600 and 1100 ohm
thanks.. i already replaced the CPS, same problem still.. I'll continue to research this..thanks for your time.
Hey so do you have any more pictures of the location of this sensor? We’ve been digging around under my 1994 Mercedes e420 for quite some time and have been unable to locate this part...
driver's side of the upper part of the bell housing, best accessed from the top of the engine, behind cylinder 8 (driver's side rear cylinder)
Can you tel me where it goes for a 03 clk320 I can’t find it
91 ranger
2.3 cranksener
fixed jerky transmission p0336
Hello,
I have no problem starting the car in the morning, but after that, when I drive the car with the A/C or even the fan on for a couple of hours, and then turn it off, when trying to turn the car back on, it wont start. I have to wait about half hour or so, and then it will start. It only happens when I have the AC or fan on prior to the non-start incident. Am I dealing with the CPS here? Thanks a lot for your time guys.
Hi ZS please email me at mbownersforlife@bellsouth.net. what model is your mercedes? When you run the ac system, does anything else happen?>
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 Hello sir, it's a 2006 CLS500. Nothing else happens while the AC is on.
Have a 1995 Mercedes s500 with no power to the fuel pump if you can help thanks you
Check the fuses relays related to fuel pump. After that check wiring from fuse box to the fuel pump
To check the connectivity plug a lamp in one side and connect 12v on the other side
The sides i mean the socket to the fuel pump and the other side is where the relay is located
Or if you have a DMM just jump the relay and check connectivity on the socket of the pump
Good luck
Check your fuel pump relay. The relay also has an integral fuse aside from the one in the fuse box.
Thanks friend very help full
My my son just bought a 2006 e350 it ran great , he drove it over 25 miles with know problem then in the morning the car wouldnt start
It would just crack crank crank but not turn over
We tried the fuses and relays
Any idea I know how the hell can you solve the problem without seeing the car but
Hey you never know , thanks
unfortunately these high tech cars are not well understood by me. I have little experience with them. perhaps try the crankshaft position sensor, but this is a long shot and i think it is most likely that you have a key related security issue.
Disconnect the battery, turn the light switch on with the battery disconnected. Leave it like that for half an hour, then reconnect the battery. If it's a minor hiccup that the computer found that can get it running again by refreshing it.