Hay Kelly : Ken from Calgary here. Your new store looks great . Fishing in and around Calgary is great .I've been tying for 50+ yrs.and I can still learn a lot about tying and you help me a lot . Thanx bud. I listened and watched and from just seeing the 2/3' s part of of your fly I tied 6 of my own. Your a great teacher Kelly .Tight lines . Ken😊👍🪳🦗
I started tying flies back in the mid 70s, and all we has was Chinese necks, they didn't even include the useful bass bug, matuka parts, and you couldn't tie small. Luckily Swisher and Richards came out with the no-hackles, and all kinds of super options appeared, including lots of terrestrials, where we didn't even need hackle. I tied nice drys in the large sizes for smallmouth, but just couldn't get the smaller stuff. A kid armed with a McMurray ant, with some soft hackle on it, could fish small and cheap, and all day.
I been getting around that problem by using hen hackle for the wings on flies like the Adams., one of my favorite dry flies. As much as I like the hackle we get these days, for the 8 to 12 range its been slim pickings Going to have to get some of these..
Or see if you can pick up the book AK did. Basically RIT dye. If you have the powder, you want to mix it with clean water, in glass bottles so that you end up with a liquor, it will give more consistent results. Today, a lot of rit dye comes in liquid form to start with. It is more expensive, and I haven't used it, but it ought to be better. A package of RIT will do a beds heet, or whatever they currently say it will do. Things like deerhair will use up more dye than one might think. What I did was set out a lot of material if I was doing say olive, a colour that the suppliers normally get wrong. And just keep dipping until the dye runs out of oomph. I use a white ceramic coated basin, I avoid stainless as it is harder to clean, or you can use a glass mixing bowl that is like a pyrex. If the material seems oily wash it carefully with baby shampoo. Find a recipe for a fixative. You can use P, it is sterile from a healthy person. or vinegar. You heat the water to boiling or what the package says, and dissolve the dye. Let the dye cool off so that it does not cook you materials Dip the material, and rinse it, if it looks good it probably is. Then fix it. You can get a good sense of the dye colour and strength from the white tissue dipped in the mix. You might want to look up dyeing with Kool-Aid. It does a lot of vivid colours very well, and is a good entry point. I had some things come out too faint, and I had to dye them again, but never any disasters. Avoid black. It is messy and hard to get right. Given we have so many great colours available today, I have only dyed olive in recent times. The reasons for that are: 1) Terrible greens in bass bug material where you know people will want to use them for frog patterns. 2) Shops have olive deer hair but it doesn't match the marabou, or bucktail, etc... 3) One is picky and wants to match the local frogs. Never herd of that, but presumably someone does it. 4) Someone shot a deer, and you want to get a lifetime supply of deerhair in some color. The only other thing I have dyed in the last 20 years is a neck I split in half, and did on half in brown for Adams. AK's book has recipes. You may want to look at some videos for painters that cover the colour wheel, and mixing paint. These will give you a lot of information. To get a precise olive you mix yellow and blue, then dull it down with some red. This is also useful knowledge if you want to Spectrumise dubbin.
The whole package has to be measured against today's floatants that could float the Titanic. You aren't floating old school unless you have a can of Mucilin, in your vest. And why would you want to. But I think the new floatants are part of the reason some sly fisherman are running wet fly hackle on their duns.
I’m new to fly tying and I was looking for something like this, thanks. Just ordered, great video.
Hay Kelly : Ken from Calgary here. Your new store looks great . Fishing in and around Calgary is great .I've been tying for 50+ yrs.and I can still learn a lot about tying and you help me a lot . Thanx bud. I listened and watched and from just seeing the 2/3' s part of of your fly I tied 6 of my own. Your a great teacher Kelly .Tight lines . Ken😊👍🪳🦗
I started tying flies back in the mid 70s, and all we has was Chinese necks, they didn't even include the useful bass bug, matuka parts, and you couldn't tie small. Luckily Swisher and Richards came out with the no-hackles, and all kinds of super options appeared, including lots of terrestrials, where we didn't even need hackle. I tied nice drys in the large sizes for smallmouth, but just couldn't get the smaller stuff. A kid armed with a McMurray ant, with some soft hackle on it, could fish small and cheap, and all day.
Sometimes old school is best, not always but sometimes. Interesting game fly tying.
Great video Kelly well explains when I started that's the only hackle we had tks
great to know for a new tyer like myself.....thanks see ya joe
Greetings from NW Michigan 🎉
✨🎣💫
We'll be out there in the next months to grab some hackles. I've exhausted every shop in Eastern Washington/Western Idaho.
Some tie parachutes I use a pair of scissors…all my friends call me low rider.
I been getting around that problem by using hen hackle for the wings on flies like the Adams., one of my favorite dry flies. As much as I like the hackle we get these days, for the 8 to 12 range its been slim pickings Going to have to get some of these..
+1 with the hen. I’ve been stocking up at shows on the grizzly hens for Adams wings.
What is the world coming too?! Music on your video? I kinda dig it.
Topic: would appreciate Kelly giving a “ how too” : Dying material/ feathers capes.
You want Davie Mcphail for that one.
Or see if you can pick up the book AK did. Basically RIT dye. If you have the powder, you want to mix it with clean water, in glass bottles so that you end up with a liquor, it will give more consistent results. Today, a lot of rit dye comes in liquid form to start with. It is more expensive, and I haven't used it, but it ought to be better. A package of RIT will do a beds heet, or whatever they currently say it will do. Things like deerhair will use up more dye than one might think. What I did was set out a lot of material if I was doing say olive, a colour that the suppliers normally get wrong. And just keep dipping until the dye runs out of oomph.
I use a white ceramic coated basin, I avoid stainless as it is harder to clean, or you can use a glass mixing bowl that is like a pyrex.
If the material seems oily wash it carefully with baby shampoo.
Find a recipe for a fixative. You can use P, it is sterile from a healthy person. or vinegar.
You heat the water to boiling or what the package says, and dissolve the dye. Let the dye cool off so that it does not cook you materials
Dip the material, and rinse it, if it looks good it probably is. Then fix it.
You can get a good sense of the dye colour and strength from the white tissue dipped in the mix.
You might want to look up dyeing with Kool-Aid. It does a lot of vivid colours very well, and is a good entry point.
I had some things come out too faint, and I had to dye them again, but never any disasters.
Avoid black. It is messy and hard to get right.
Given we have so many great colours available today, I have only dyed olive in recent times. The reasons for that are:
1) Terrible greens in bass bug material where you know people will want to use them for frog patterns.
2) Shops have olive deer hair but it doesn't match the marabou, or bucktail, etc...
3) One is picky and wants to match the local frogs. Never herd of that, but presumably someone does it.
4) Someone shot a deer, and you want to get a lifetime supply of deerhair in some color.
The only other thing I have dyed in the last 20 years is a neck I split in half, and did on half in brown for Adams.
AK's book has recipes. You may want to look at some videos for painters that cover the colour wheel, and mixing paint. These will give you a lot of information. To get a precise olive you mix yellow and blue, then dull it down with some red. This is also useful knowledge if you want to Spectrumise dubbin.
Personally I find the older style hackles have a much prettier and delicate appearance than the genetic hackles
Nice 👍
What ever happened with the photo contest ?
Top 5 pictures and videos were posted to our instagram. Winners have been notified. Go check em out!
Did you ever say the name of this product. Is it the Winger Pack?
@@RVRRUN00 It's Whitings Bantam Rooster Cape and you can find them here: www.slideinn.com/product/whiting-bantam-rooster-cape-grizzly/
@@TheSlideinn Ah, my bad I don't do instagram. Thanks for replying. 🙂
Awe dang it. Didn’t know I had to be in instagram to hear the announcement. Totally had a good one! Spawning browns!
"Barbulers"???
Genetic hackle has gone too far in my opinion: too small sizes (try finding a size 12 on a cape these days!), too dense barb count and too expensive
The whole package has to be measured against today's floatants that could float the Titanic. You aren't floating old school unless you have a can of Mucilin, in your vest. And why would you want to. But I think the new floatants are part of the reason some sly fisherman are running wet fly hackle on their duns.