Fender Twin (Evil Twin) Restoration and electrical repair of this 1980s all valve amplifier
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- I clean and repair the Tolex plus replace the cement resistors and internal fuses on this amp.
Learn how to safely work on a tube amp.
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My name is Jon Snowdon, I have been playing guitar for over 40 years, I was a guitar dealer back in the day and have owned many of the guitars that people hold in the highest regard as well as low end stuff too..
I am in a band and play regular rehearsals and gigs, well I used to pre-pandemic, but it will come back and I cant wait to get back to it.
That hum is from the old electrolytic capacitors in the power supply section.
The 1994' "Twin Amp" is the Evil Twin not the red knob "The Twin".
For reals.
The red knob Twin is just a regular POS!
thank you. I'm a red knobber myself and it's not evil.
it's chaotic good!
I've got the 94 pro tube Twin and DAMN is it loud. Had it since 96 and really haven't been able to really use it. 2012 I bought a master volume knob that went in pre amp in and post out. Made it so I could use as much as 6 on the volume. I bought a Boogie S O B so I got a daily use amp and the Twin sits in storage. Still so clean it looks brand new.
@5:30 you mean powered capacitors ! Resistors are not power retaining
Good job! Amp sounds great. I bet it's louder than heck and nice and clear. Good luck getting back in the swing of things whenever things start getting back to "normal". Oh yeah, hey thanks for the shout out. Great video. 👍
Thanks! Will do!
Hie, thank you for this really good video! could you share where you fouded the new capacitor?
The hum will probably be the big power caps on the right hand side near the transfromer. Replacing those should get it down/rid of it.
Hey kids, don't take electrical advice from someone who thinks capacitors are resistors. And discharge them through a 10k resistor or you can damage them by pulling far too much current from them. Also leave them grounded while you work on the amp.
I will give you an "A" for your real good effort. Glad that you realize enough to know that those big "power resistor" things can contain enough energy to release a lethal shock, even after they have been discharged!!!! Those are actually polarized electrolytic capacitors. Think of them kind of storing a charge similar to how a lead acid storage battery holds a charge between it's plates. Capacitors are similar and have a dielectric between many plates. In the case of those filter caps they even may contain a chemical electrolyte like the storage battery too. Also note that the working voltage doesn't mean that is how much voltage is inside of it... It can be far greater but usually less after it is de-energized from the circuit. It is not a good idea to directly short circuit them to remove the charge. You can damage the caps, damage the other circuity. Particularly if there is semiconductors such as diodes for rectification or especially any modern switching circuitry that utilizes FETs or even fancier comparators, op- amps or digital processors. (Some tube amps have gone digital! As dick as that sounds-Hi!) Uh also you can actually burn holes or arc weld your wire to the chassis. It is much better to release the energy slowly thru a resistor! I noticed you mentioned some folks use a capacitor...... You want to use a resistor of around 100k ohms to discharge.... Come to think of it,,, perhaps you were just pulling the viewers leg and making fun with calling the filter caps power resistors and then just kinda throwing out there the thing about some people use a capacitor to discharge. Obviously you had to source those big cement filled power resistors that you replaced.
Good job working on that PCB. !
Bonus points for the very smart suggestion about one hand in the pocket for safety just in case of receiving a shock.
I am deathly afraid of electrical shock, in otherwords I am a big baby and hate being bitten. I am hyper-vigilant and have only been shocked three times in my whole adult life. I won't even submit to TENS therapy from a physical therapist nor any fetish mistress (well I thought that was funny joke.......) Anyways
I am working on an evil red twin amp right now with some freakn noise somewhere in the phase inverter circuitry. It seems to be the back circuit board . As I flex it it seems to go away. Those darn jacks are really shoddy. But they seem as if the check out fine. I ran this amp in bench and it was great but put it back together and freaking loud him
Isolated it to somewhere just before Phase inverter but not making headway except for chopstick to back board flexing. Took it apart resoldered everything and tested on bench and all good. Put it back together and it's bad as ever. Now it is noisy on bench too and I am flexing the board and chopsticking everything with no luck. All resistors check out and have clip leaded in caps for substitution . Nope! Ground loop? I dunno ! Thought maybe the bias but the voltage has very little ripple. Fucking amp!!!!!
Evil red knob twin amp fixed. Removed and resoldered or replaced all jacks and components upon the back board. I mean I removed almost every component except for resistors and cleaned up the board removed flux and resoldered everything back together. Cleaned up the wiring dressing and when I played amp it roars like a lion and when I stop it's quiet like a mouse. No hum and no buzz.
Calling filter caps “power resistors”… wow 🤯
Nice work, mate! though not to be too nit-picky, but this is merely the "The Twin" with red knobs, as there is also a black knob version. I think the red knobs get people to think "evil". the 1994 Twin Amp is the Evil Twin.
I heard red knob ones were called the evil twins because of their high voilume - don't know if it's true as the one I have was faulty from the get go and I've not got around to fixing it yet.
These amps are not Paul Rivera era amps.