Thanks Rodian for a well filmed and taught video training guide. I've been working with Sand and Cement for ever and, have thought about working with lime as a training guide to pursue working more with cement properly, when necessary, later. You have just persuaded me to give it a try as I tend to use small amounts for small jobs for now. I appreciate the enthusiasm and trusting assertion towards your trade skill...
When mixing up in a bucket, I sometimes use a second bucket too. When mixing is nearly complete, tipping it into the second bucket makes it easy to mix up the unmixed sand that clings to the bottom of the first bucket.
I put a layer of lime/sand plaster over a stone fire place a couple of years ago. I used my hands to smooth it, no gloves. For a week my skin was so messed up and swollen I could hardly pick up a cup of tea. I guess that's what lime does? I won't make that mistake again. Thanks for the video. As a beginner, it's good to get a not too complicated look at how people do these things.
I was scratching my head wondering what they used in the Masonry Heater Association anual meetings in order to do the projects and then disassemble them, so the bricks can be reused in the next year meeting. Now I know, thank you sir
You can also use it for beam filling on older roofs where the original wall plate is on the inside of the wall and the roof extends down over the eves, it let's the walls breathe and stops condensation and dampness, alot of builders use a cement based mortar to beam fill which defeats the purpose of the lime mortar
Thanks so much for the great video, sir! I really enjoyed your clear and concise explanation of everything. As a total newbie I am going to attempt a masonry cook stove. The plans call for using a 1 to 3 clay/sand mortar mix. How does clay mortar compare to lime mortar? Will lime mortar hold up to a fair amount of heat? Thanks 😊
Well, it seemed to behave similar to how the Master was showing us in the video, but I don’t think I’d use it again. I used the stove for two seasons, mainly for heat (I live in the northeast corner of the US) and I have several areas where the mortar has cracked. It is possible that I messed up some of the batches but I tried very hard to measure everything consistently. I think I might have to dismantle part of it and try resetting it with Rodian’s lime mixture 🤔. Thanks for asking 😊
Great demo Rodian. Do you add anything to make the mortar more workable like a bit of washing up liquid or Feb Or is a lime mix very easy to work with? Which trowel do you recommend for a 63 year old beginner? Thanks Rodian
Love these videos, I'm a bricky labourer at the moment but heading to college next year to start an apprenticeship 😊 Would love a video showing how to add colour to a mortar like this with the pigment powders, can you actually get them coloured evenly if mixing by hand?
Please note: this video is showing a lime-sand mix for teaching purposes, allowing the resulting structure to be dismantled after the students have left. The bricks, and even the mortar, can then be easily recycled. This is not a mortar recipe for permanent construction.
Too wet, lime is always stiffer and the sand needs to be less uniform, mix sharp and plastering if you can. You should try mixing it with just enough water to bind, leave it overnight and then knock it up with a lot of beating, pick it up and throw it, slap it around. Should be more like putty than brick mortar. I use a mill mixer for this bit. And add a little wood ash from your fire, at 5-10% of the lime. makes it ever so slightly hydraulic and is how it was used traditionally, bits of crap from the kiln. I use it and sell it daily.
@@niktznany8871 no it's not, as it's unpredictable and can cause problems with some types of stone, especially in damp environments. A pure lime mortar which has been made hydraulic is far easier to predict with regards to impurities like sulfates and nitrates. As well as binding the free lime better, preventing lime leaching and other minerlisation like the formation of gypsum on the surface of sandstone.
@corindoyle so you're referring to 'hydrated masons lime', correct? I want to knock up my own repointing mortar for my home's foundation. I've come up with a materials list of: 2 parts soft sand 1 part sharp sand 1 part hydrated masons lime For a nod to authenticity I think I shall add the 10% wood ash. Am I on the right track?
@@jimmeh213 yeah that's the one. But I'd suggest 1 kiln dried and 5 sharp sand as soft is the wrong shape. It's round not angular. If you can swap 1 of those sharp for some crushed stone dust even better. 5mm to dust limestone, granite or slate is good and you should be able to get something like that. Good luck
I'm a DIYer and have mixed a bit of mortar by hand for pointing up and filling some old vent holes with repurposed blocks cut to size, and my hand doesn't half ache, sometimes to failure. Is this something that gets easier the more you practice mixing by hand? It made me feel like I had carpal tunnel issues or something.
You can get those paddle mixers or a cheaper alt is the drill attachment kind. Mixing by hand does get easier the more mixes you make, if that makes any sense.
Ahhhhhh memories of the lumpy shite we had to use in college ! Re mixed in a pan mixer each day . I’m surprised any of us managed to get anything built with it . You bucket mix exactly the same as me ..... opposite of the mixer , water last 👌🏼 New word of the week Dustifyed 😆👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Hi, i would like to know how this will work with rice soup. They used it for the great wall of china and therefore and cuz it has been proven to work...I'd like to use the chinese mortar recipe for my own house... Do you happen to know anything about it?
I'm confused. DIY brick layer here, about to build a fireplace so got some hydralime. Been told builders sand is no good it had to be sharp sand? Was going to do a 1:2:8 mix (2 lime). Advice appreciated 👌
Hi, good video but I have a few questions. Is lime in this video hydraulic? How many days does it take for your mortar to go off? How strong this mortar is in psi?
It's hydrated mate. You shouldn't use hydrated lime as a mortar. It's only used as a plasticer. If I was building in lime I would be using an Natural Hydraulic lime 2-3.5
Great video, thanks. Just doing some repair work of what I think is lime mortar. Went to building merch and he suggested using yellow sand and white cement. Thoughts would be much appreciated
That ruins the old mortar & brick. Makes it hold moisture and freeze/thaw it'll fall apart. Old mortar turns to powder. Cement over old lime mortar is bad
2 questions: could I use this mix to practice with my actual bricks, or will the bricks become too dirty afterwards? So, do I need practice bricks as well? Second, can you just use sand and water to practice, or would that just be too unstable? Thanks love your videos
So this isn’t a mix you would use for actual construction is it? I though hydrated lime was only just used as a plasticiser as opposed to hydraulic lime which is used in construction?
Am i correct in thinking mortar lime in shops already has sand mixed in ?? If so, where do i get just bags of lime and what brand names are recommended ??
Limestone dust, wood ash, mix it, boil it, filter it, reduce the water, and keep repeating, and the dust is quick lime. Due to osmosis, the basic composition should allow the minerals to seep into the surrounding area, creating a solid mineral deposit.
Hi, any pointers for best mix and tips for reporting a chimney? NHL5, plaster and sharp sand, and not too much water is what I've picked up on videos on the net.
It depends how hot of a day it is, just add water if it starts to go off while you're using it. I re use mine as many times as I can as long as it doesnt get to hard
I've read sharp sand is better, but having pointed my front wall, I think a mix of sharp and building sand would be easier for pointing. I did 2.5 sharp to hydraulic lime, it was quite coarse
Hi Rodian and other experiencec builders in here. So when working on period built properties, I hear folk speaking about not using cement based products, use lime instead... Is this the method they are referring to? Lime based plasters and mortars etc? I'm not a builder by the way, just a very interested painter 😁🍻
They're referring to NHL (natural hydraulic lime) which should always be used on old buildings because it allows the walls to breathe preventing damp. Hydrated lime is a different thing, it won't set if you make mortar from it so it's good for practice work.
@@AM-lf2iw thanks A M. I've listened in on a few conversations but kept my nose out from asking questions! So they use that instead of cement? A surveyor was mentioning the other week to the customer about their plasterer using lime... makes more sense now
I have a Victorian, sandstone building that's previously been pointed (ouch - big-time) using sand and cement. I recently contacted 'Hanson' (Cements, Concretes, Aggregates, Limes etc) and they provided me with the information I'd not had a direct answer to in around 3 years, namely, what type of lime should I be using to re-point my crumbling sandstone building? 'Not had a direct answer to', is predominantly down to suppliers still running in 'builders-use-cement' mode - they simply weren't positive or just didn't know. Quick history: Tradesmen stopped using original building materials (limes etc) around 100 years ago when cement became widely available, preferring the new, 'with-it' 'cool' stuff to carry out repairs, and when buildings like mine needed re-pointing, guess what they used? In fairness to these tradesmen, they couldn't possibly know back then that using cement to point old properties was in fact damaging them, extensively. It's my guess that had they known what horrors they were handing down for future home owners they'd never have used the destructive cement mortar. Destructive - why? Well, it seems the old limes would allow rain water OUT of the brick/stone whereby maintaining the integrity of the stone, where cement mortar was actually holding the water IN - boom. Only after a few decades passed (or less) would you see the results of these destructive cement mortars - the stone in these fine old buildings spalling and crumbling - while the rock-hard cement remained, in pretty little squares on your wall. You'll probably see graphic pics online showing someone's hand gripping a strap of cement mortar while the actual stone it's been fixed to has decayed into the background - mine isn't quite at that stage, but hold my beer.. Anyway, the guy in Hanson emailed me back and advised I needed a Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) 3.5 (better check your own, personal requirements). In the 3 or so years I've been promising to repair my Victorian building, there's been a fairly dramatic increase in very useful and helpful information around the 'mystery' of lime. There's now much more knowledge, more websites and of course a growing resource of UA-cam people offering fantastic advice. Among my favs, I've been watching a relatively recent channel 'GMT Pointing Specialists Ltd' who's very passionate about the use of correct materials on building repairs - limes - and damn scathing of those persisting with cement mortars on traditional buildings. GMT (Glenn) is informative and willing to offer advice - just like Rodian in his excellent videos. I have no affiliation with GMT or Rodian but have gleaned so much from these people that I feel it will benefit both them, and us, by promoting their work. Do the research before embarking on major stuff , you'll be enlightened, enriched and will most likely be the guy/girl responsible - in the last 50 years - for saving your property, with the additional benefit of increasing, considerably, the selling price of your property.
You can do, with natural stone we tend to go for a 6 sand 1 lime 1 cement mix or you could use a hydraulic lime such as a nhl 3.5 at a 3:1 mix with no cement, that will give you a bright coloured mix.
Why not mix four buckets of sand yo one bucket of lime n then that way your mixes r perfectly consistent in a mixer. I've always mixed like this n it works perfect.
You shouldn't use hydrated lime for pointing. Hotlime, lime putty or NHL2-3.5. The lime he is using should only be used as an additive for cement. If your building was built before 1919 then avoid cement as it destroys buildings
I am making an experimental Russian wood stove (500 bricks.) I am using 3 parts sand, 1 part lime, and 1/2 part Type N mortar so in a year or so... I can break it down and save my bricks. Each brick should scrape off in 30 seconds or so. For the 1,000 degree F firebox with refractory bricks I am using 3 parts sand, one part lime, one part wood ashes, and 1 part refractory mortar which is expensive. Lime is cheap. That should "scrape off" the yellow bricks a year from now too.
Natural Hydraulic Lime. It is made from limestone that naturally contains impurities that act as a pozzolan. The higher the number the more hydraulic it is. NHL 2 behaves closer to lime putty, NHL 5 behaves closer to cement.
Only use Hydrated Lime, not Agricultural (Garden) Lime, for teaching students bricklaying skills. This mix is not for permanent construction. Use Hydraulic NHL limes for permanent applications ( NHL 2, 3.5, and 5).
I have a 5 gallon container of premixed white lime mortar. I only used a small amount of the lime mortar for a repair job on the interior of my stone basement wall. My exterior wall has ribbon joints that are tan in color. Is it possible to add pigment to the lime mortar to match the color so I can use it on the exterior ribbon joints? I am concerned that any pigmentation I add to the mortar will bleed out over time.
We used to at college hydrated lime is basically a plasterciser and needs Portland cement to make it go off it’s hydronic like that will go off on its own
![HOW TO LAY BRICKS TO A LINE [Bricklaying for beginners e.p7]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0I86fPLIXiM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO LAY BRICKS TO A LINE [Bricklaying for beginners e.p7]](/img/tr.png)
Great advice. Simple, well-explained with no bla bla. I'm just off to grout my first stone wall. Thanks.
Thanks Rodian for a well filmed and taught video training guide. I've been working with Sand and Cement for ever and, have thought about working with lime as a training guide to pursue working more with cement properly, when necessary, later. You have just persuaded me to give it a try as I tend to use small amounts for small jobs for now. I appreciate the enthusiasm and trusting assertion towards your trade skill...
When mixing up in a bucket, I sometimes use a second bucket too. When mixing is nearly complete, tipping it into the second bucket makes it easy to mix up the unmixed sand that clings to the bottom of the first bucket.
Love what your doing, as a complete frank spencer your helping me and now im doing a weeks bricklaying course. keep up the great work.
Hmm Betty 😂👌
ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE , WELL DONE MATE
Just what I needed. The brickwork around the front door of my Victorian semi need repairing and a lime mortar mix is required. Thanks
I put a layer of lime/sand plaster over a stone fire place a couple of years ago. I used my hands to smooth it, no gloves. For a week my skin was so messed up and swollen I could hardly pick up a cup of tea. I guess that's what lime does? I won't make that mistake again.
Thanks for the video. As a beginner, it's good to get a not too complicated look at how people do these things.
Gloves are a good idea. Lime really shreds skin.
I was scratching my head wondering what they used in the Masonry Heater Association anual meetings in order to do the projects and then disassemble them, so the bricks can be reused in the next year meeting. Now I know, thank you sir
I love your videos, very informative and you make it fun and interesting when you are explaining. Keep up the great work
Putting two parts sand in the bucket then lime then two parts sand would help stop the lime flying about.
You can also use it for beam filling on older roofs where the original wall plate is on the inside of the wall and the roof extends down over the eves, it let's the walls breathe and stops condensation and dampness, alot of builders use a cement based mortar to beam fill which defeats the purpose of the lime mortar
*eves
*EAVES*
*alot
*A LOT*
*let's
*LETS*
Brilliant video that describes each process perfectly
building some stuff for my grandparents, appreciate the info
Brilliant, simple, just the info I needed.
Dustify = powder
Make a volcano ?
= hole 😂.
Thanks, young fella, for the mix. I will use that mortar this weekend 👍
Exactly what i needed to see mate, very informative. Thanks
Thanks so much for the great video, sir! I really enjoyed your clear and concise explanation of everything. As a total newbie I am going to attempt a masonry cook stove. The plans call for using a 1 to 3 clay/sand mortar mix. How does clay mortar compare to lime mortar? Will lime mortar hold up to a fair amount of heat? Thanks 😊
How did the project go? I've been looking at using clay mortar for a wood oven.
Well, it seemed to behave similar to how the Master was showing us in the video, but I don’t think I’d use it again. I used the stove for two seasons, mainly for heat (I live in the northeast corner of the US) and I have several areas where the mortar has cracked. It is possible that I messed up some of the batches but I tried very hard to measure everything consistently. I think I might have to dismantle part of it and try resetting it with Rodian’s lime mixture 🤔. Thanks for asking 😊
Great demo Rodian.
Do you add anything to make the mortar more workable like a bit of washing up liquid or Feb Or is a lime mix very easy to work with?
Which trowel do you recommend for a 63 year old beginner?
Thanks Rodian
Don’t need to the lime is the ultimate
Thank you for sharing this information I am about to fix up my 1st place in Portugal 😊
Love these videos, I'm a bricky labourer at the moment but heading to college next year to start an apprenticeship 😊
Would love a video showing how to add colour to a mortar like this with the pigment powders, can you actually get them coloured evenly if mixing by hand?
Oi.. Greetings from AUSTRALIA. Good video Thanks Rodian.
Elf & safety Great video thanks.
That's lovely honey-coloured sand! That makes a gorgeous coloured compo for a light sandstone like the buildings in Bath for example.
I agree, where do you find sand like that?! Everything around here is gray-ish
@@Ev-eq8zn daaaaaan saaaaaaaf
Hi just done a repair to our geordian terrace house, mortar redish sand. My repair has come out white. I used a 3 sand to 1 lime mix. What I do?
How can i use hydrated time to fix small or big cracks in concrete ceiling for exterior and interior concrete ceilings?
Love these brick videos, have you done a vid on jointing up your brick work?
(I'm new so don't know what videos you have done) 👌👍
Cheers pal 😁👍🏻 I did one about a year ago but it is in dire need of being updated so there will be a new one coming in the next couple of weeks.
Could you use this mix for repointing? Thanks.
Hi 👋🏼 I could use this mix for repointing an old stone wall right?
Yeah if you want it to all wash out lol
Please note: this video is showing a lime-sand mix for teaching purposes, allowing the resulting structure to be dismantled after the students have left. The bricks, and even the mortar, can then be easily recycled. This is not a mortar recipe for permanent construction.
Hi Rodian, can you tell me the name of the sand that you used in this video please? Keep up the great work!
Great video, would you use this same mix ratio to plaster internal walls or would it be different?
I would use specific plastering sand and cement with a plastering additive to plaster walls 🤙🏼🧱
@@RodianBuilds great videos, any tips for plastering with lime mortar
@@RodianBuilds no cement on solid walls lime all the way
Too wet, lime is always stiffer and the sand needs to be less uniform, mix sharp and plastering if you can. You should try mixing it with just enough water to bind, leave it overnight and then knock it up with a lot of beating, pick it up and throw it, slap it around. Should be more like putty than brick mortar. I use a mill mixer for this bit. And add a little wood ash from your fire, at 5-10% of the lime. makes it ever so slightly hydraulic and is how it was used traditionally, bits of crap from the kiln. I use it and sell it daily.
Thx
the best way is using natural hydraulic lime (NHL 3,5 or NHL 5) not pure hydratized lime
@@niktznany8871 no it's not, as it's unpredictable and can cause problems with some types of stone, especially in damp environments. A pure lime mortar which has been made hydraulic is far easier to predict with regards to impurities like sulfates and nitrates. As well as binding the free lime better, preventing lime leaching and other minerlisation like the formation of gypsum on the surface of sandstone.
@corindoyle so you're referring to 'hydrated masons lime', correct?
I want to knock up my own repointing mortar for my home's foundation. I've come up with a materials list of:
2 parts soft sand
1 part sharp sand
1 part hydrated masons lime
For a nod to authenticity I think I shall add the 10% wood ash.
Am I on the right track?
@@jimmeh213 yeah that's the one. But I'd suggest 1 kiln dried and 5 sharp sand as soft is the wrong shape. It's round not angular. If you can swap 1 of those sharp for some crushed stone dust even better. 5mm to dust limestone, granite or slate is good and you should be able to get something like that. Good luck
I'm a DIYer and have mixed a bit of mortar by hand for pointing up and filling some old vent holes with repurposed blocks cut to size, and my hand doesn't half ache, sometimes to failure.
Is this something that gets easier the more you practice mixing by hand? It made me feel like I had carpal tunnel issues or something.
You can get those paddle mixers or a cheaper alt is the drill attachment kind. Mixing by hand does get easier the more mixes you make, if that makes any sense.
Thanks for the great vid really helped me out
Yer on to something with this channel..👍
Can I use a drill to mix lime and sand?
No. drill is for making holes. But you can use a mixer attachment to fix stuff.
Can you use beach sand and wash the salt out first?
What NHL lime is that? Can you use the same ratio of sand to lime for render on brickwork?
Unable to source hydrated lime in New York City. Do you have an alternative?
Can I apply this to repoint a garden wall, using a mortar gun?
Ahhhhhh memories of the lumpy shite we had to use in college ! Re mixed in a pan mixer each day . I’m surprised any of us managed to get anything built with it .
You bucket mix exactly the same as me ..... opposite of the mixer , water last 👌🏼
New word of the week Dustifyed 😆👌🏼🧱👍🏼
We must have been lucky, our stuff at college was pretty good. The good ol 90° bucket mix technique👌🏼The best word of the week🤣🤣🤣
I remember the pan mixer . Happy days
not forgetting that lime is way better for the environment.
Hi, i would like to know how this will work with rice soup. They used it for the great wall of china and therefore and cuz it has been proven to work...I'd like to use the chinese mortar recipe for my own house... Do you happen to know anything about it?
When you tear it down the next day can it be rehydrated and used again?
Yes
Can U reuse it 1s it's gone off or will U need to buy more lime and sand
I'm confused. DIY brick layer here, about to build a fireplace so got some hydralime. Been told builders sand is no good it had to be sharp sand? Was going to do a 1:2:8 mix (2 lime). Advice appreciated 👌
Quite so, have a look here : www.roundtowerlime.com/post/guide-to-mixing-natural-hydrualic-lime-mortar (assuming you are using NHL 3.5).
Great, thanks fella 🏴
Could I use this mix for a slow setting internal plaster? I am currently using nhl lime but it's setting too quickly.
Mixes have to be more accurate when using lime so shovel quantities should not be used! Use a container measure. Mix was too wet too.
Do you happen to know the right ratio when using lime putty (stored under water)
Hi, good video but I have a few questions.
Is lime in this video hydraulic?
How many days does it take for your mortar to go off?
How strong this mortar is in psi?
It's hydrated mate. You shouldn't use hydrated lime as a mortar. It's only used as a plasticer. If I was building in lime I would be using an Natural Hydraulic lime 2-3.5
@@LiamGrubby definitelly yes! Another good option is using lime putty.
How many days is the curing time (watering) for lime mortar brick wall..??
Have you ever tried using quicklime and making a hot mixed mortar? I'm trying to learn more about the properties of traditional mortars.
Great Man
where can I find information on how to use a Refina roller pan mixer to mix Calbux 90 lime bas d plasters ?
Thanks I’m a self employed pointer never knew it would fall out in 2 years if u didn’t use lime
Great video, thanks. Just doing some repair work of what I think is lime mortar. Went to building merch and he suggested using yellow sand and white cement. Thoughts would be much appreciated
That ruins the old mortar & brick. Makes it hold moisture and freeze/thaw it'll fall apart. Old mortar turns to powder.
Cement over old lime mortar is bad
2 questions: could I use this mix to practice with my actual bricks, or will the bricks become too dirty afterwards? So, do I need practice bricks as well? Second, can you just use sand and water to practice, or would that just be too unstable? Thanks love your videos
This mix is only for teaching purposes. The lime is essential.
So this isn’t a mix you would use for actual construction is it? I though hydrated lime was only just used as a plasticiser as opposed to hydraulic lime which is used in construction?
From 0:00 until 0:25, there is a white ▶play button, what happened?
What brand is this Sand you are using
Can I use m sand and lime for brick making
once you take it down you can knock it back up right ?
Another good video mate. Hows the house coming along?
Cheers buddy. I'm getting quite a few comments asking about the house so i'm doing a video about it. Should be up in the next week or two
Does this set hard over time? How hard?
5:31 *gauging trowel
*MIX ON THE GROUND INSTEAD OF IN A BUCKET?*
Am i correct in thinking mortar lime in shops already has sand mixed in ?? If so, where do i get just bags of lime and what brand names are recommended ??
Hardware stores
How long does it take to go off? A month or longer?
HI, THERE CAN YOU ADD SBR TO THE MIX?
Is this normal river sand
May mix Mud + Lime?
Limestone dust, wood ash, mix it, boil it, filter it, reduce the water, and keep repeating, and the dust is quick lime.
Due to osmosis, the basic composition should allow the minerals to seep into the surrounding area, creating a solid mineral deposit.
SO whats the difference between lime and cemet mortar?...and when to use which
whats best bucket ratio for above dpc.. 5/1?
Depends on the brick and how soft or hard it is
How can you make sure that every mixing lime mortar will be in the similar color when dried , please ?
Consistent ratios
Lime ended my career on the trowel its in cement as well and some sands i think. Gloves all day long.
Training mix yes. Proper building mix will be NHL and sand. Hydrated bag lime will never set
From what I understand the NHL will even set under water?
Stihl 38 would the mix you mentioned be fine for ‘plastering’ over bare brickwork as well as re-pointing?
I use NHL for building with reclaimed brick.About 3 times the cost of cement but is more eco friendly so is a big hit with some customers.
@@brethrenphil how long could it take to set this time of year? And what kind of paint could I use on it once cured? Cheers
Hi, any pointers for best mix and tips for reporting a chimney?
NHL5, plaster and sharp sand, and not too much water is what I've picked up on videos on the net.
did u not need to put cement in the mix???
What colour does it dry??????????
How long can I use one mix , how many time can i reuse one mix ?
It depends how hot of a day it is, just add water if it starts to go off while you're using it. I re use mine as many times as I can as long as it doesnt get to hard
Hi, I've bought bnq hydraulic lime and building sand is this all I need for re pointing my chimney stone work?
Hydrated lime
B&Q don't sell hydraulic lime as far as I am aware 😀.
I've read sharp sand is better, but having pointed my front wall, I think a mix of sharp and building sand would be easier for pointing. I did 2.5 sharp to hydraulic lime, it was quite coarse
What is the granulation of the sand?
Is this the type of mix you can use for concrete blocks?
Wondering the same
Hi Rodian and other experiencec builders in here.
So when working on period built properties, I hear folk speaking about not using cement based products, use lime instead... Is this the method they are referring to?
Lime based plasters and mortars etc?
I'm not a builder by the way, just a very interested painter 😁🍻
They're referring to NHL (natural hydraulic lime) which should always be used on old buildings because it allows the walls to breathe preventing damp. Hydrated lime is a different thing, it won't set if you make mortar from it so it's good for practice work.
@@AM-lf2iw thanks A M. I've listened in on a few conversations but kept my nose out from asking questions! So they use that instead of cement? A surveyor was mentioning the other week to the customer about their plasterer using lime... makes more sense now
From what i've read i believe you should use whatever the original muck was made of.
I have a Victorian, sandstone building that's previously been pointed (ouch - big-time) using sand and cement. I recently contacted 'Hanson' (Cements, Concretes, Aggregates, Limes etc) and they provided me with the information I'd not had a direct answer to in around 3 years, namely, what type of lime should I be using to re-point my crumbling sandstone building? 'Not had a direct answer to', is predominantly down to suppliers still running in 'builders-use-cement' mode - they simply weren't positive or just didn't know.
Quick history: Tradesmen stopped using original building materials (limes etc) around 100 years ago when cement became widely available, preferring the new, 'with-it' 'cool' stuff to carry out repairs, and when buildings like mine needed re-pointing, guess what they used?
In fairness to these tradesmen, they couldn't possibly know back then that using cement to point old properties was in fact damaging them, extensively. It's my guess that had they known what horrors they were handing down for future home owners they'd never have used the destructive cement mortar.
Destructive - why? Well, it seems the old limes would allow rain water OUT of the brick/stone whereby maintaining the integrity of the stone, where cement mortar was actually holding the water IN - boom. Only after a few decades passed (or less) would you see the results of these destructive cement mortars - the stone in these fine old buildings spalling and crumbling - while the rock-hard cement remained, in pretty little squares on your wall. You'll probably see graphic pics online showing someone's hand gripping a strap of cement mortar while the actual stone it's been fixed to has decayed into the background - mine isn't quite at that stage, but hold my beer..
Anyway, the guy in Hanson emailed me back and advised I needed a Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) 3.5 (better check your own, personal requirements).
In the 3 or so years I've been promising to repair my Victorian building, there's been a fairly dramatic increase in very useful and helpful information around the 'mystery' of lime. There's now much more knowledge, more websites and of course a growing resource of UA-cam people offering fantastic advice. Among my favs, I've been watching a relatively recent channel 'GMT Pointing Specialists Ltd' who's very passionate about the use of correct materials on building repairs - limes - and damn scathing of those persisting with cement mortars on traditional buildings. GMT (Glenn) is informative and willing to offer advice - just like Rodian in his excellent videos. I have no affiliation with GMT or Rodian but have gleaned so much from these people that I feel it will benefit both them, and us, by promoting their work.
Do the research before embarking on major stuff , you'll be enlightened, enriched and will most likely be the guy/girl responsible - in the last 50 years - for saving your property, with the additional benefit of increasing, considerably, the selling price of your property.
Can u mix lime with cement to make the mortar a lighter colour?
Yes u can .just on what spec of the job, ratio of mix u do i usually do 6 sand 1 cement 1 lime . .but iv never mixed cement with in french lime
Anthony said it 👍🏻 I've mostly done 5 sand, 1 cement and 1 lime. Dont have to use plastersizer when using lime 👍🏻😁🧱
@@RodianBuilds it's only how ive been taught
You can do, with natural stone we tend to go for a 6 sand 1 lime 1 cement mix or you could use a hydraulic lime such as a nhl 3.5 at a 3:1 mix with no cement, that will give you a bright coloured mix.
Using old reclaimed bricks or stone i prefer mix 3 sand 3 sharp sand 1 cement 1 lime mix too
Why not mix four buckets of sand yo one bucket of lime n then that way your mixes r perfectly consistent in a mixer. I've always mixed like this n it works perfect.
Can you use this mix for re pointing brickwork?
You shouldn't use hydrated lime for pointing. Hotlime, lime putty or NHL2-3.5. The lime he is using should only be used as an additive for cement. If your building was built before 1919 then avoid cement as it destroys buildings
I am making an experimental Russian wood stove (500 bricks.) I am using 3 parts sand, 1 part lime, and 1/2 part Type N mortar so in a year or so... I can break it down and save my bricks. Each brick should scrape off in 30 seconds or so. For the 1,000 degree F firebox with refractory bricks I am using 3 parts sand, one part lime, one part wood ashes, and 1 part refractory mortar which is expensive. Lime is cheap. That should "scrape off" the yellow bricks a year from now too.
Please can you fo a video on using an angle grinder
Already on it buddy. Hopefully I'll have it up by the end if the week or early next week 👍🏻😁🧱
I've also purchased a n 8m fisco tape meshure. Thanks for sharing it
Would barn lime work
is that lime stone
Can you re use the lime and sand mortar as been told you can keep using the same mix
Yes you can re use it. That's exactly what i do. Just make sure to remove any really dry lumps if its been left to dry for a few days or in the sun.
Hmmmm what's the difference if you use ratio of 3:1 instead of 4:1...? Can anyone tell
Without cement?
Adding cement would you just put 4.1.1 sand cement lime
Hi rodian, what is NHL? Thanks for the video
Natural Hydraulic Lime. It is made from limestone that naturally contains impurities that act as a pozzolan. The higher the number the more hydraulic it is. NHL 2 behaves closer to lime putty, NHL 5 behaves closer to cement.
You won't be able to re use that muck though no?
Do not take grinded lime stone or powdered lime. Take lime stone big blocks and put that in water, it will be more stronger.
Only use Hydrated Lime, not Agricultural (Garden) Lime, for teaching students bricklaying skills. This mix is not for permanent construction. Use Hydraulic NHL limes for permanent applications ( NHL 2, 3.5, and 5).
I have a 5 gallon container of premixed white lime mortar. I only used a small amount of the lime mortar for a repair job on the interior of my stone basement wall. My exterior wall has ribbon joints that are tan in color. Is it possible to add pigment to the lime mortar to match the color so I can use it on the exterior ribbon joints? I am concerned that any pigmentation I add to the mortar will bleed out over time.
“Mix it like cake.” Actually, I would rather have the cake. Chocolate cake and a glass of milk would be perfect!
All day long 🥮🍽🤣
stfu
Anyone know of any other youtubers that cover other disciplines of construction and who's videos are as detailed as these?
Can this mix be re-used ?
We used to at college hydrated lime is basically a plasterciser and needs Portland cement to make it go off it’s hydronic like that will go off on its own