How to Install the Quick Start External Voltage Regulator kit for Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, kit bypass
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Get the Original Quick Start bypass kit from your service tech or we can help you DIY it yourself
Demand the better QuickStart kit For the Emergency External Voltage Regulator bypass kit ERCKFRM click here:
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ERCKFRM
External Voltage Regulator Kit and Field Replacement Module for 1988 & up Chrysler Corporation Vehicles. Newer than 2006 may also require a different driver as well. See our latest video on the matter,
youtube search: Modified Driver Install on DENSO Alternators for ERCKFRM071, ERCKFRM081 External Regulator kits
This will show our latest problem solution with our ERCKFRM071, ERCKFRM081 kits with modified driver
For the W210 Wiring harness click here:
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Since 1987 for Dodge and Chrysler vehicles and since 1991 for Jeep Family vehicles have alternators that are controlled by the Alternator Voltage Regulator Control Module inside the vehicle computer.
Engine Control Unit (Computer).
The computer is often called the ECC, ECM, EEC, or PCM. Often the alternator voltage regulator, or field control module, in the computer will fail, leaving you with a dead charging system where your alternator doesn't work, yet your engine runs just fine. Before our external voltage regulator bypass conversion kit, the entire computer would need replacement at a much higher cost.
In order to avoid costly computer replacement and get your alternator working, you can simply bypass the internal Alternator Voltage Regulator Control Module using our simple External Voltage Regulator conversion bypass kit.
Kit Contents:
Heavy Duty Adjustable Voltage Regulator
Wiring harness to Alternator in split tubing with molded Plug to Regulator
Stainless Steel Plug Retaining clip
14 Gauge Grounding wire from Regulator to Alternator
#10 Insulated Ring terminals 14/16
1/4" Insulated Ring terminal 14/16
Insulated Butt Splice Connectors
Flat Blade Connectors
Hex Head Regulator Mounting Screws
Regulator Grounding Screw
FRM ( Field Replacement Module )
Zip Ties
Instruction Sheet (English) other language downloaded in PDF format, message me
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NOTE: The FRM Module (gold color) is inserted between the two wires that go back to the vehicle's computer, which you remove from the alternator to install the external voltage regulator kit. Your vehicles' computer may be broken in such a way the FRM Module will not put out the check engine light in about 10 to 20% of the cases, but the external voltage regulator kit will work 100% of the time as long as your alternator is working.
The FRM module does NOT need to be grounded, where as, the metal case of the voltage regulator must have a good ground between the alternator, voltage regulator and battery. The FRM module may get hot so don't wrap it up with tape.
How to test your alternator on the vehicle:
To check to see if your alternator is working, unplug or remove the two field wires from the back of the alternator. Then ground one of the field terminals on the alternator and jumper the other field terminal to the positive battery post on the back of the alternator. It does not matter which terminal is grounded and which one get positive power. When you connect the ground and positive wires to the field terminals you will get a small spark, this is normal. This is by-passing the voltage control and will cause your alternator to run full blast, if it is working. Put a multi-meter on your battery and run your engine on high idle, do not allow your alternator to charge the battery much over 16 volts. If you find that your alternator is charging when you do this procedure, but does not charge when you connect it back to the computer, this kit will get your alternator working and charging at the proper voltage. The voltage regulator is preset at 14.5 volts. If you want to adjust the voltage regulator you use the screw on the back, but be sure the metal case of the voltage regulator is grounded while you adjust it.
I just put together my own set up and with all my lights and heater on and at idle it's putting out 14.74 volts even when I bring it up to 2000 rpm it's still at 14.74 it's a1998 Dodge Ram 3500 thanks
Wow, I didn't realize the voltage regulator was embedded inside the computer. Sounds like you've got a less expensive work-around.
It appears that Dodge went a couple steps backwards in their design from the rest of the industry. In the early days, alternators used a separate regulator. Eventually the manufacturers got wise and built the regulator into the alternator, simplified the design. For some reason, I can't believe it was a dollar savings, Dodge decided to make the voltage regulator part of the vehicle's computer, the Single Module Engine Controller, SMEC, which is considered un-repairable. The The SMEC apparently monitors the field current going to the alternator, if it sees wrong field current, it says, "bad alternator" and gives an error code 41. If you have to get the vehicle SMOGed, it will be an instant fail, they don't seem to care what the error is, to them an error is an error. This vendor simply attachs the two wires that used to go to the field coil to a power resistor, that simulates the field current. From the photo, I'd guess it is rated at at least 10 watts. The resistance is probably the same resistance as the field coil in the alternator that it is trying to simulate. They do say however, that if the SMEC isn't working properly, the fix with the power resistor may not work, and I'm sure they are right.
From the various videos and articles I've seen this is the only one that addressed the error code problem.
Thanks alternatorman
what would make my voltage jump up and down real fast after installing this kit. My lights actually flash with the jumping of the voltage
How much does this kit cost? I want to buy it for my back up 250 amp alternator that I just bought. I want to adjust the voltage to 14.7 volts so that my amplifiers for my sound system put out more power. The alternator that I have now is a 240 amp alternator with a (PCM BYPASS) so it charges at 14.4/14.2 volts instead of the normal 13.8 volts.
Would this help on a 2014 Dodge Journey? We took it to O'Reilly the other day and the tester said the voltage regulator is dead. I can't seem to find it as a seperate component so I'm assuming it's built into the alternator on our vehicle. This would prevent this from happening again? Damn vehcile only has little less than 29k miles on it.
I have a 1988 Chrysler new yorker my computer voltage regulator is bad when i convert it to an external voltage regulator with my battery charge gauge work still or no
I just installed this kit on my Dakota 2 days ago and my truck it's been running just fine.
Say "FRM" or "FR module". When you say "FRM module" you're saying "field replacement module module".
4:35 what if my alternator has only one plug it for 2 wires?
how do I buy this product?
can I buy just the regulator.
Mr alranator man I have a 2001 Dodge 1500 I installed external regulator due to PCM malfunction it now wants to over charge help
hi, do u have any tool that would allow me to test voltage regulator..
without removing alternator is there a ways to tell with symptomps, if the problem is
bridge rectifier, or voltage regulator or worn brush.. i have scope.. please advise me.
Where is the best place to tap into for the power wire? Like which fuse would be best? 03 grand cherokee
can your kit be used with a 120 Amp Alternator.
thank you for your time Shayne
+Shayne Costa Yes it can. The C8313 voltage regulator we use is adjustable and much stronger than auto parts regulators
Any suggestion on were to wire to the ignition?.2002 wrangler
I had the same job done a few years ago in my Chrysler Voyager. I have used regulator from Polish Fiat 126p Nowadays I would buy that kit.
also wondering what the differences between the economy and heavy duty versions are and what I should go with since I'm running a 200amp alt? I have a larger stereo that pulls a good bit of current, and will be running a light bar also if that makes a difference
I have installed this kit on my 2000 ram 1500 the voltage is now back to normal however the frm does not seem to work i still get the check gauges light and my volts still read at above 18 but when i hook up my diagnostic scanner it shows that my actual volts are in the normal range
mike sommerville Try Running a Copper Ground wire from the battery to the alternator and to the base of the computer.
will this work with a 99 dodge ram cummins?
hello, I'm running a 240a alt, multiple batteries and about 9000 watts in my 99 grand Cherokee. My ecu regulates my voltage to 13.4v. will this kit work to bring it up to around 14.5? Thank you
Do you have to install the field modulator? (the small gold box)?
56v12cylinder Not really. That will put out the check engine light caused by disconnecting the vehicle's computer regulator. If the computer regulator is fried the light can stay on even with the FRM connected (there are other problems causing the light).
my lml vaspa 150 cc scootar head light, indicetar,horn can not work.
but nostarting problem plz help me....
I have a 1993 Jeep with a stock alternator still going through the computer can I go into the computer and find the regulator and change it so that my voltage goes up it just seems right now that I don't have as much voltage as I'd like to have when I'm charging I'm charging it about 14 1 14 2 I'd like to be able to bring that up.... Is this possible if I know the electronics of the computer
Need serious help. I bought a brand new diesel truck 12V alternator and put it into the truck. The alternator still did not charge. I took the alternator for testing and it was found that it was not charging. My question is that the alternator was new, could it have been damaged by us as we put it in? Its fuse is still fine and there seems to be no burnt parts visible. By the way, it has an inbuilt regulator.
i have have a tatoya ipsum 1998 model.i was driving home from work n i saw my battery light come on i went i got a new alternator it work is was ok for a few minutes n then it the light came on agin what cud b my problem.n also when i check the voltage its high over 15v
I have a Vauhall Astra alternator. It has two battery posts and one blue wire coming out of the outer case. How to I wire things up to excite the alternator. Do I need volts or amps to excite it?
It doesn't work on mine and i have no idea why everything is put together as stated all tests have been run but it will not charge. Please help ?
what do you do with the original harness....there are 2 heavy gage ground wires with the 2 prong connector that go to an alternator like the one you have in this video
I have a 92 jeep battery is good and just bought a new alternator ran good with freshly charged battery and I encountered the same issue after about 25 min of drive with headlights on lost gauges speedo and tach does this sound like a voltage regulator issue?
found the problem. weak switch 12 volt source.
is the field modulator just putting the two wires together
Do I need to use a frm on a 86 dodge b150 van. Asking because other videos says nothing about using a frm, in fact they didnt even use one. Please help
Should the Voltage Regulator get hot? If not, what would be the cause?
the regulator with the kit does not have the adjustable screw on the back?
anyway you could use something like this for the 03-05 lincoln town car pcm controlled
it makes my lights go dim and then bright. how do you get past that?
John Stewart Try running a copper ground wire from the battery to the alternator plus find a better ignition wire for the kit.
I installed this kit. Works great.
I can't get it to stop over charging (16 to 18 volts) no matter how many ground wires I put on it. I put all the ground wires on that you recommend here, and still no good. Any other suggestions?
Jim Simpson Yeah it didn't work. I ended up getting a computer from eBay. That worked fine...I tried to save money but this didn't do it.
Everything wired correctly to Denso Alternator that's normally connected to an ECU with EVR (electronic voltage regulator). For testing purposes used 12+ volts power from battery.
Alternator output, is around ~17 volts .. which too high. Tried adjusting, alternator output was slightly lower but stayed close to ~17 volts.
With the vehicles ECU (EVR) (electronic voltage regulator) connected alternator output is normal at ~14 volts.
The vehicle's Denso alternator which is fairly new requires an ext. voltage regulator. When installed is normally connected to the vehicle's ecu (evr).
nvm
I've been looking at this kit for awhile for my 98 4.0 grand cherokee with a 200amp alt, but I have a few questions before I purchase;
do I leave the original wires hooked up or leave them off when I put the two new ones from the external regulator on the two small studs of alt?
can I use an "add a fuse" and plug into a 10amp fuse on my panel to send signal to the extern regulator to kick on/off?
also do I need to install the FRM, what's the downfall of not installing it?
can this kit be used on an 89 cherokee to use a 91+ altenator?
how do i spend a alternator as a moto