Dressing a Cheap Amazon Anvil to Make it More Professional
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- Опубліковано 7 січ 2020
- Roy is dressing an anvil, specifically a cast steel 66lb anvil. If you want to read up on this 66lb steel anvil amzn.to/3VzuKrw or ebay.us/AHku2H
(eBay and Amazon affiliate links.)
Recommended Products (Amazon Affiliate Links)
60 grit flap disc amzn.to/37RHHnR
Grind disc: amzn.to/35xoCWv
Wire wheel: amzn.to/37J9w1C
Bosch angle grinder amzn.to/2X11NHR
Loctite Extend rust neutralizer amzn.to/2TbLybg
WD-40 amzn.to/2QYXomE
Justin at Good of the Land (Rust preventative video) • Restoration Hack! Best...
This is the full cheap anvil review: • Forging Test on the Ch... . We hope you had the opportunity to watch the full amazon anvil review. The Happybuy Anvil review covered a sound test, rebound test, and forging test. You can also find these cheap blacksmith anvils for sale on eBay. Also, we have our First Impressions Video: • Cheap Amazon Anvil: Fi... .
Roy is grinding the horn of the anvil and also grinding anvil face at the edges. Hope you enjoy the video!
COMMENT: Have you bought a cheap anvil for sale before? What brand was it? Any other suggestions you have for a cheap anvil alternative?
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Thanks a million Roy. This anvil was a gift from my wife and its my first real anvil. As iv seen on face book there is a lot of other people that also received this as a Christmas gift. Id love to see some more videos for this anvil, maybe make some hardy tools? Also you mentioned fixing up the pritchel hole, id really love to see you do that. Thanks Again
looks a lot better without the blue!
Looks so much better Roy. My 145lb was painted sea foam green and it’s removal was the first thing I did.
Still getting my shop set up and tooled. Doing a lot of mindset/knowledge prep for when the forge is cured and my anvil comes in (plan to purchase this one) and your videos have helped a lot. Love you straightforward honest videos. Your one a handful on youtube that I follow that gets an immediate like for any video I watch of yours. Great content.
Well done Roy! I so appreciate the instructive nature of your videos... Not only do you teach the "how" to do it part, but also the "why!" Thank you for sharing your gift with us! God's blessings upon you sir!
You need to spray the anvil with salty water and let it sit for a few days until it gets a fine rusty coat, then you spray the neutralizer/convertor on and the rust converts to black iron oxide which then protects the surface from future rust. These products have a polymer mixed in with the acid that coats the metal with a thin plastic coat. It comes in bottles and is far easier to brush on, or it can also be applied by a sponge or rag. The bottle will last years, whereas the can is a rip off. Look for Rust Converter and there are heaps of products out there. Wear chemical proof gloves and eye protection... preferably a face mask!
Thanks for the tip! Loctite worked great on my post vise restoration. One issue was matching the finish on the newly forged spring and wedges. But with a little “magic”...voila. I got it looking 100 years old to match.
Thanks Roy for dressing up my Anvil I Appreciate it lol Nice informed details! May God Bless you and your family Greatly
Thanks so much for your review of the anvil and showing how to clean it up. I'm a new silversmith and couldn't afford a big anvil. I bought this using your affiliate link. Yesterday I cleaned up the horn. With hours of work i was able to make this completely smooth for fine metal working. Grateful for your sharing of knowledge.
Glad that it was helpful 😊
Nice Job Roy, the anvil is turning out great. Very helpful tips. Thank You Wayne.
Yeah I'm picturing the nice blacked out anvil...sitting on a a stump in my shop! lol Nice work Roy, these little anvils are starting to grow on me.
I really would like you to make a video on extending the anvil face around the pritchel hole with welding. Basically correct the worst design flaw this anvil has. Thanks for all the great content!
For a water repellent on my machinery I use lanolin spray. Good stuff
Thats sweet Roy and I found it at exactly the right time! Just purchased a new 200 kg monster that has very similar appearance as far as the horn and edges go, thankfully black and not that gaudy blue! Currently sitting on the floor of my shed awaiting a stump to made and a cradle for lifting with a few mates. I will be following these instructions to dress it up and I am looking forward to giving it a beating in about 10 days time! Thanks mate, great info.
Cool stuff Roy! Thanks for the great lesson! God Bless you guys!
I’m looking for an anvil and this is the best anvil I’ve seen yet thanks!
Thanks Roy. Good information on inhibiting rust.
I got a reall big anvil, but I’m tempted to buy this because it just looks darn neat
Hello, fellow blacksmith here.. I bought the same anvil from our local hardware store here in Victoria, BC called Princess Auto and they sell them instore so you can examine them and pick the one that's casted the best.. I welded footings onto the anvil to be able to bolt it down to a block so it's extra solid.. I have the 22 lb and 44 lb and they are great! I'm not Christian myself, I'm Norse Pagan, as white people have been pagan for thousands of years, going back to the stone age, bronze age and into the iron age.. I found that connection to ancestors and appreciation of nature that comes with Norse Paganism has made my life the best its ever been.. Blacksmithing helps too.. ;) As well as being a welder, have a truck and a great career.. Thank you Odin for giving me the wisdom of the smith.. May the gods bless you, friend!
Much better looking now, came up a treat
Thank you so much! Just finished getting the awful blue paint off my 132# version… so much better already, and I haven’t even done the rust treatment yet :-)
Great instructions Roy! Thanks for the knowledge I'll have to get some of that inhibitor after I take all that ugly blue off mine!
Those Kinko gloves are great. I was a ski instructor in New England and a lot of us had them. As warm as the best ski gloves, way more durable and a lot cheaper!
Hi Roy! I just bought one of these through your affiliate link. Looking forward to using this video to dress mine up. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks for sharing those links. The one on Amazon I had been watching jumped to $185, and your link went to a cheaper price. And the eBay link you shared was even better at only $110 with free shipping, so I got that one.
How are you liking the anvil?
Very informative vid. I should have watched this vid before commenting on your comparison vid from today. Thanks for the info. Cheers!
Great video and tips, thanks for sharing.
I'm waiting to get this anvil as I type this. In new so looking like it will be better then the block of steel I have now. For rust I just pray to keep my rust away. Of God loves me then he keeps it away. Great videos 👍
hey roy, i think they listened to you. i just bought one of these and the edges are rounded off. great video
Nice job, Roy! I just bought a 5 Kg (11lbs) cast iron anvil from a hardware store, which seems to be some kind of a girl's anvil because it isn't blue, but...red! It will be used mainly for copper jewelry making and needs a lot of dressing to be done. Your video is of great help, thank you for it!
Girl’s anvil? You know, many tools are red. That’s Craftsman’s colors, among many. Many toolboxes are red. Where do you get the idea of a girl’s anvil anyway? You know, there are a number of women blacksmith and knife makers on UA-cam. I think they would get offended at that.
Looks way better👍🏻
Nice work! Looks better !
Looks like a nice little anvil
Thanks for the vid and info.
Believe it turns iron oxide to iron phosphate. Did not know about the spray, but used the brush on for years.
Yesssss dressing up my anvil lol.
Ok times last watched it in like r section...work gets in the way.
Really glad you fixed up my anvil Roy...looks spectacular sir.
Y'all couldn't ask for a better guy than ole Roy.
🙏 Blessings to you and your family sirSir
Crawford out ⚒️🧙♂️
this devout pagan continues to come for the smith advice and I do thank you blesssed be
I hope I can win one. I did but the Harbor Freight one and I’m shopping wrong to find a hardened steel plate to weld to the top of it. It works.
Looks great by the way
Thanks for testing these anvills out and showing that they are perfectly useable items. Are all the ones you have of the same casting quality? i ask as the one i got from ebay before xmas had a horn shaped like a ducks bill. Still useable but it will take a fair bit of grinding to get a more user friendly shape.
As another choice which I would use for protecting the steel, I would suggest painting the entire anvil with "Gun Bluing" at least 3 soaked-in coats which will really keep rust from forming on the metal. Go to your nearest Gun Store and ask the gun mechanic which brand of Gun Bluing that the store sells would he use to protect solid steel and you can bet that if you follow his instructions, you will be really pleased with the results.
Great video! I like your style and subscribed. Lots of great info. Thanks.
I'm looking at buying that same anvil. I do a little bit of metal work. Have a welder and things. I make small welding art.
How do you take video so the sparks don't damage the camera lens? Special camera or a clear shield in front of or over the camera lens?
Thanks! Gary
I’m new to your channel, and I’ve been following this Amazon anvil series with interest! I was just curious if you’ve ever tried E-Z Off oven cleaner or brake fluid to remove the paint! Either one typically does a great on cheap paint! Keep up the good work! Subbed!
That looks really good! I take it the bet (opossit side to the logo), that you said had been filled, turned out to be filled with weld not cheap filler? 👍
Looks ALOT better!
Not exactly a QOTD, but I'll try it, to catch your attention. #Questionoftheday would you consider, if tooling we're available, to tap the pritchel hole, and run a section of threaded rod in, then plug weld it? And then, add your own pritchel hole, near the tail end instead? Thanks ⚒️😀❤️👍
Cold there Roy, I can see your breath. Keep warm brother
Nice job on the clean-up. How has this anvil stood up under use?
Painted anvils, major pet peeve of mine. I never understood why anyone would want to paint their anvil, to each his I suppose. Roy when you said "happy accident" I immediately thought of the T.V. show, The Joy of Painting with Bob Ross. He used that phrase many, many times. By the way, the anvil looks great. 🔥🔨
They know people will grind the paint off at home , its a good way of distributing lead around the world into peoples homes duming everyone down paving the way for a future communist takeover .
Matthijs Jansen Do they even make lead paint any more?
@@aliceharvey1226 They do in China. Don't you remember news stories of Chinese manufactured toys which had to be recalled, because they were painted with lead paint, because it was less expensive than titanium oxide paint, and the plant manager pocketed the difference?
@@sparky6086 Oh, now you remind me, yes I do remember. As I recall, several items from China meant for children had to be banned due to defects. I was thinking the anvils made here in the US, still,, the paint probably isn’t. Thanks for the reminder..
@@aliceharvey1226 As far as I understand, these anvils are made in China straight from an Italian design or mold, and that's why they have the Italian word on the side, ACCIAO, which means "steel" in English.
Those of us with access to a Sandblaster would simply mask the top surface and blast away the paint then polish the horn with the flap disc, mask the horn and paint or whatever to the rest
I was able to get most of the paint off by using acetone. A little cleanup with wire brush got the rest 👍
@lioness of lechistan The paint on the horn will vaporize when contacted by red hot steel. Also it's ugly.
Acetone is absorbed into the body through the lungs and skin AND it's TOXIC good gloves and ventilation (filter masks DON'T WORK)
@@jimstein8249 Chemical or spray paint masks work with Acetone.
Man....turn on a heater! I'm getting cold just watching you! 😁
I just received my 132 lb model, in black. For some reason they have two versions of at least the two largest models. The black one is the harder model, rated by them at 55RC, vs. 50RC for the blue model. I would understand that if the prices were noticeably different, but they seem to be exactly the same! I paid $275.49 delivered. The price from the vendor has popped up to to $285.49 the day after I bought mine. Now, a complaint about shipping has been that it comes either in a cardboard box with some ineffective packaging material, or no box, with just a shipping label tagged to the hole. Well, mine came in a wood crate. I don’t know if that’s just the black models, but I was pleasantly surprised. I wish I could append a picture.
I tested the hardness with my files as this will never fit in my Rockwell tester. The 60 file made a very slight scratch, and the 55 hardly anything at all, while the 50 just skidded around. So it’s close to the 55 they stated. I haven’t had time to do much else yet, but I’m designing a movable stand.
thankyou for the locktite
I just bought one of these anvils to start my journey into blacksmithing. The question I have is, why can you not just drill a hole in a more convenient spot on the face for a Pritchett hole? Thanks for your videos, Mark
Thanks
wow, really looks nice now. hope i win one otherwise i will have to wait a few months to get one.
What were the various wheels used? The first one was a metal cutting disc? Second a stone grinding disc? And the final was a wire disc, right? Is that what I should look for when shopping? Preparing to do this to my first anvil and I'm also setting vup my first shop/getting my first tools as I go so want to make sure I'm getting the right stuff!
This is an interesting anvil. I like the wide main striking area, the roundness of the horn and the relative stoutness of the longer square end. The only think I don’t like or don’t understand is how all that air under the striking area might impact the longevity of this anvil. I’ve never seen any of the established makers have such a hollow in the foot area. Wouldn’t it have made sense to set this up and cast it with a solid foot? I wonder if anyone with one of these have ever considered making a mold for this and filling in that triangle cavity with new cast iron and then welding the resulting seam OR, just filling it in with lead or tin, squaring the base and mounting it on a stand that way. What I’m getting at: would more mass in that area make it more lively or would it take away the bounce?
Howdy Roy
Just found your channel
I have a question
I was looking at the 110 lb anvil
How many pound hammer would you recommend using for this anvil
Good job! Just a quick question, what is this green tape on your tools for?
So he knows they are his tools when he takes them to shows and demonstrations and such.
I like to protect my steel tools with linseed oil. You can thin it with mineral spirits. After a few days it forms a durable film with a nice color. I’d use it on the non working surfaces and protect the top and horn with the fancy stuff or just oil.
Thanks for all the information. I hate I did not see you back when you were giving away one a month back in 2020. Not that my luck is good, I have never won a giveaway anyway but I would have applied.
Thanks for sharing your process. I must say the surface looks like it's a bit marred from the little bit of work you did on it during your last video, or is that just a camera glitch?
Bryson Alden he even said in the last video that it was marring a little and that he felt it would work harden over time.
Two questions- A: what size is the Hardy hole (I’m still trying to win it on your livestream but I will probably give up and buy one...) and B: do you feel the round knotted wire wheel catches edges less than the cup type wheel? Cup wheel takes me for a ride once in a while when I catch an edge. God Bless!
I used boiled linseed oil also treated all my hammers
Ever thought of a neddle gun for the first part
Hi, thank you for the great videos! I was given the same anvil and am following the same general process of dressing my anvil as you did. In your video, you said that you intended to use WD-40 in conjunction with the Loctite rust neutralizer but you never really said if you did or not. I am also planning on using Loctite but did you end up using the WD-40 as well, or just the Loctite. If you did use the WD-40, was it beneficial? Thank you!
Yes I have used the wd40 as it helps the surface displacement of water.. So this way the anvil will rust less
Nice work Roy!
For future videos if you could turn down the volume while working with something exceptionally loud (like the angle grinder) you would save all our ears from going deaf before it will occur to us because of blacksmithing. ;)
I’ve noticed you wear hardy mech gloves also.
Nice
Have you used or know anyone thats used an nc short sugar anvil if so what do you think of them
Can you explain the process of making it black?
i live in australia so instead of heating it up should i just put mine in the fridge for a bit or... ?
So I have a budget of around $500.00. And I’ve been looking at a few options for an anvil. The atlas graham 117#, the NC Calvary anvil 112# and the Acciaio in the same # range. The first two are in the $500 range, would it be worth the money? Or should I save a couple hundred and go with the Acciaio? I can afford it, but is the quality that much better? Really leaning toward the atlas, but if I can save money, I don’t see why I wouldn’t. On the flip side, if the quality is worth it, I have no problem shelling it out.
Where can I buy that anvil, please send link, I can't find it. Thanks
Just bought a 20 inch rail anvil for 37 bucks went to Stater bros for beer tried to carry both from car dropped anvil on foot because beer would spill ow
I'm going to do this same thing to anvil i get it this week I cant weight to get started Now i need to make me some tongs Punches and some Hardy tool's
Cool video ! When the intro said " Dressing The Anvil" I half expected to see a humor shot with it 'dressed ' in a tee shirt , some gloves ,and your cap.
Makes it a pretty anvil :)
Definitely looks a lot better. Any tips for hardening the surface?
That anvil has a pretty hard face. A ball bearing test returns the bearing almost 100% to where I dropped it from. I have been using one for over a month and it is doing great for the small creations I make.
@@TheJACKCOLORADO Awesome! Great to know. Thanks. Looks they sold another one.
I noticed the thermal jet where are you that is that cold?
Blue is not a problem for me. I was kind of curious why you just didn't paint over the blue if you hated it that much? In the weapons field, we use cosmoline, grease, bluing or linseed oil to coat things we don't want to rust.
God bless brother!
It sounds like phosphoric acid,the acid converts rust into iron phosphate that is the black stuff.
Is the spray similar to cold bluing?
It cleaned up nice. Not too good on the spark test though.. lol
Exactly... Doesn't look like high, even medium carbon steel isn't it?
Kind of a pointless thought, but think about how amazing it would look if you could hot brass everything except the horn and the deck. Maybe one day when I have a ton of time, money, and no cares I'm gonna have to attempt something like that.
That rust inhibitor sounds alot like phosphoric acid, turns iron oxide into phosphorus oxide. Auto body shops buy it as a product called "Ospho".
@ Roy
It would appear they have stepped up their game a bit......
They are now seeling a 50k / 110 lb model for like $239.00
Always unplug your tools before changing discs, or drill bits in portable drills
Way better without the blue 👍
But other than aesthetics, is there another reason to spend all the time and effort removing the paint?
BTW WD40 is way more of a solvent than an oil and it actually blasts lubricants of all kinds OFF whatever and so if one uses WD40 it should be used to clean rather than lube ...like it is great for cleaning firearms ...we used it in the military but THEN we applied LSA lubicant. I never use WD40 as a lubricant....but hey they have a great gig going because say you have something sqeaking? You squirt wd40 and it stops ...for a very short time typically because it hardly has any oil ....the stuff actually blasts grease and oil OUT of mechanical bearings etc and is often responsible for severe damage for lack of lubircant
I've always used Linseed oil on my steel tools. Can I do the same with an anvil?
I use pneumatic air tool oil on mine
@@Sratching I use salad dressing, I recommend ranch.
Acciaio means metal/steel
I would use paint remover before sanding or grinding...who knows what cacinogenic paint the Chinese used on these! I don't want to breathe THAT dust! So a little pain removing chemical gel is my plan and THEN grind/sand
I ordered some of the Loctite Rust Neutralizer and after reading the instructions I am curious as to why you used this product. It states in bold lettering that SOME RUST MUST REMAIN for the product to work. It even says that if there is no rust that the product may cause rust. It is supposed to be used to prepare rusty surfaces to be painted.
So, why did you use it?
I'll wind up using it on my trailer that sits beside my house.
You want a rust converter with phosphoric acid in it. It will create a grey oxidattion on the surface that protects the steel from rust. It works on bare steel as well. Perma blue or gun blue will work as well on bare steel.
Why not use a wire wheel for the paint?
looks to me the Hardy hole needs dressing on these too.
I wasn't just referring to the radius. I was referring to the squareness of the hole. And going straight to forging tooling in it risks fracturing a corner. But no, I don't listen to everything. He bangs on a lot with the obvious.
Huh, so that locktite stuff is basically a cold blue.