Love guys like you. A real professional who is willing to share his experience and knowledge all in the name of helping others. Your calm, matter-of-fact delivery is absolutely perfect. Great video. Thank you.
I always never comment on these videos but your video was absolutely perfectly explained from beginning to end. I'm a contractor by trade but never installed a sump pump before and after watching your video I feel comfortable enough to attack the project without any hesitation. Thank you very much for your help. Blessings brother🙏🙏
Hey Chuck! I MUST, MUST #THANKYOU A MILLION TIMES... FOR THIS VIDEO. I watched this video many times, to get your directions correctly. I purchase my sump pump at HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS where I work (I'm a girl/female), then I INSTALL IT, I DID IT MYSELF. #NotkiddingYou... IT WORKS!!! I DID IT RIGHT. My basement flooded in Oct 03, 2016. I had to remove the carpet myself IMMEDIATELY... knowing it must had been flooded for 3 days (I was out of town) when I return and I found out, by coincidence. I usually don't go to the basement. IS A NEW BUILT HOME, BUT IT SEEMS THE SELLER DIDN'T INSTALLED A SUMP PUMP, THE PIT WAS EMPTY! That's how it got flooded. Well, just last "MONDAY" I installed the sump pump myself... and IS RAINING HEAVILY HERE IN VIRGINIA (Quantico MCB area). And I can hear the pump working and I can see the water gouging OUT, of the back of the house. TRULY... YOUR ADVICE AND VIDEO.... TOTALLY HELPED ME DO IT AND SAVE ABOUT $500 BUCKS. #THANKS
Can’t help but watch the whole video even when I know what I am doing. You have a natural charisma about you and easy to watch videos. Very friendly and enjoyable.
watch your video can see how happy you are living your life and that great, wish you joy and happiness and good health for the rest of your life and finance to cushion it
This is a great DIY video it helped me save $400 by buying a new sump pump from a local supplier and going to my local Lowe’s and getting a new Check Valve for $13. I would recommend watching the video two or three times to get the steps down packed
You make it sound easy. Forgetting that it takes a lot of work to put all the supporting pieces in place. Nevermind the digging and cement work. This is more like an infomercial.
You would make a great teacher.perfect step by step video y watched over 20 videos and yours is the only one that showed and explained everything perfectly.
This was a great video. Not only was it actually helpful, but your message at the end really helped and persuaded me to try this myself. Great motivation, thank you Chuck!
@@shanefrank3281 so if for some reason the inlets allowing water into the basin get clogged, the whole basin doesn't float. Also debris collects at the bottom of the basin, if you have a brick under the pump its less likely to ingest trash.
Thanks, great video, Chuck. I'm a homeowner with two sump pits, water ingress almost constantly, and can vouch for Zoeller. If one has a constant seeping, ingress situation, and during storms large amount of ingress, I'd recommend the 1/2 hp Zoeller M98 rather than the 1/3 hp M53. The larger one uses not much more electricity, costs only about $70 more, and clears the sump pit more quickly during heavy ingress from storms to prevent the sump not being able to keep up. If a homeowner has little ingress, the 1/3 hp is fine. Zoeller is the best, but we have replaced ours about every three to four years for little things; for instance, once the on/off switch was stuck on (the float was not stuck) and the pump ran constantly. So, be sure to check your sump pump routinely (thus, the pit cover silicone sealed down, as some contractors do for radon minimizing, is not a good idea; you have to be able to lift it to look at the sump pump every couple of months). Anyhow, I'm not an expert, I just have a wet-wet basement :-(
+coolkayaker1 Oh, and in this video, it appears that Chuck is not using a Zoeller check valve; why, I do not know, as the Zoeller check valves are the best (trust me, I tried others) and Chuck likes Zoeller. I use only Zoeller check valves now, and they need to be replaced every couple of years. If/when the start to leak back, water will re-enter your sump pit slowly when the pump is idle, and it will have to pump more frequently than it should as the pit slowly fills up again from backflow. A new Zoeller check valve is about fifteen bucks (do not buy the cheapies at big box stores) and, since the sump pump does not need to be removed, it takes about five minutes and only a screwdriver to replace the check valve. :-) Lessons I learned the hard way. lol.
@@Burps___ I know it's been a while, but hopefully you're still getting notifications about replies to this comment. I have a Zoeller pump and check valve in my basement. I'm not sure of their age or the pump's model, but the house is 34-ish years old and I've been here about 4.5 years, so they are somewhere between 5 and 35 years old. :-) Maybe Chuck did the install. There's no squeal from the pump bearings and it doesn't run terribly often. I'm in Ohio, so we get all the weather - hot, cold, dry, and swampy. Sometimes it all happens in the same day. I'm not TOO concerned about the pump, and if Chuck has installed them for 30 years and never replaced one of the ones he installed, then wow I have nothing to worry about. That said, I'm still a worrier. I can hear my pump when it is running. If I'm quiet when it is wet outside, I'll hear a light hummmmm for 15-25 seconds, then a cachunk and silence, and then I'll go back to sleep. How did you tell that the check valve was starting to leak back? Did you hear it running, stop, and then suddenly restart?
@@ahaning I’m so sorry that I just got to see your nice message now, when I got notified about a different comment. UA-cam! I live in IL, much like OH. I could tell the check valve was back-leaking only when I noticed that, under same environmental conditions, the sump kicked on more than it did previously. For instance, if it was super dry for a week, and yet the sump kicked on (and likely did other times that I didn’t hear), then it was back-leaking for me only bc I know in the past that dry spells got no sump use, it was static. Gentle rain, used to be sump on every 30 minutes (I live in wet area), but now similar rain yet pump in every 20 minutes, you get the drift. It’s so easy to wait until dry time weather, unplug the sump pump, gently unscrew the collars on the Zoeller check valve and replace it, that it’s worth doing. Why? Even if the pump must run, say, 10% more than it should due to back leak, that’ll burn out the pump sooner, abd a pump is $300, so costs $30 value instead of a $15 backflow value and ten minute job…not to mention if the sump fails early could be thousands in basement damage. I write date I installed the check valve on it, and know that I need to replace it every three years or so for my frequency of pumping. My friend, a plumber, told me to keep a fresh new check valve of the proper size in the basement at all times, because if the valve ever has a failure (crack, leakage, etc) during a storm, it could be catastrophic backflow so I’d be in there wet as a dog but at least be able to swap it immediately. Hope that helps, but by now you likely have already changed yours. If not, how can you sleep at night!? Just kidding. lol
So useful! The only addition I have is a coupling on the top to connect elbow to the discharge pipe. This coupling has come off twice due to high pressure.
Hey nicely made video here. You make it really easy to understand. Always appreciate it when people go out of there way to share what they know! Salute
Chuck, this Zoeller 53 pump looks a lot better to me for one big reason. The float switch is directly wired into the pump which makes it a heck of a lot easier for me to wire with a standard 12-2 line running out to the pump. I want to cut the plug off and direct wire this in to my line so I can water proof everything and hide the cables in a box. With most pumps I find a float switch having it's own wire and this complicates things. It's not impossible to wire it's just more complicated dealing with two lines. I prefer this pump because it's just got one electrical line to deal with. To me this is worth the extra money because it makes the installation so much easier. BTW this is for an outside underground sump application, not in my basement and that is why I want to direct wire in the pump.
@@71sed8edmc19 when the pump stops it allows the water to drain out from the check valve to the hole drilled so when the pump starts again it doesn’t have so much pressure to work against to get the water going again.(So I was told from a master plumber)
@@Robertz37 the pump he is using appears to have one already built into the pump housing I'm not that familiar with the particular model to know for sure but if that is the case there is no need for the hole in the pipe
Actually weep hole should be drilled right above the threads on check valve right at bottom of discharge to prevent vapor locking….. u want discharge pipe to live with water in it….. I’m a basement waterproofer for past 10yrs
@@lrtlar18please help me understand you better. On the discharge pipe itself below the level of the check valve drill a 3/16 hole? My check valve is 4’ up in height. Should re plumb it to be just a few inches above the pit like this gentleman did? Thank you
Thank you sooo sooo much Very informative video , Now I learned something thumbs up 👍🏻 for u man. Now I can install a new sim pump in case of broken . Thanks for u bro.
Great Video's Chuck. Bought my M53 and zoeller check-valve. Installed them using your instructions. Thank you very much for your excellent video posts.
I live right next to a river and my pump runs every 30 seconds for a short time to remove the constant water flowing into the pit. Every 3 years i have to replace my pump. I'm on my 3rd pump since i've moved in. Do you know of any pumps that are made to be running constintly? I understand if they are 300-400$ each. I've tried 3 different brands but no luck.
This is a great instructional video, but I have had to replace our Zoeller sump pump twice in five years. This is an older video and they definitely don't make them like they used to. You also did not mention drilling the required 3/16" pressure relief hole in the discharge pipe, inside of the sump pit, below the check valve.
Just replaced my 15 year old crawl space pump with a Zoeller 1/3 hp pump. That’s not good to hear about replacing two pumps in five years. The pump instructions do point out the 3/16 inch vent hole as you had mentioned. Things like that have not changed in seven years, surprised he did not mention that.
There is also an article out there that the one-and-only, Bob Vila rates the Zoeller 1/3hp sump pump, the Best Submersible Pump. My guess on both of these opinions, is that they were influenced by money. My first-hand experience with Zoeller is that one pump failed under the two-year warranty and the second one (which was installed by the same master plumber) failed in 2 ½ years (so, out of warranty.) I installed a Little Giant Select Series ¾hp Sump Pump and I'll see how it compares.
Hey you didn't add a whelp hole to the discharge pipe. The whelp must be added just above the sump pump. Failure to do so will void the warranty on most sump pumps and sewage ejection pumps. Oh and its in the instruction manual.
I've watched several of your videos and echo what many have said: you are a gift to so many and are highly appreciated. You do a wonderful job and are helping so many people. I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping you can help with: 1) I live in MO and we get some cold temperatures and freezing in the winter. Is there any concern in installing the sump pump and related 2" piping outside with freezing in the winter? Do you need to worry about the pipes cracking? Will the pump and system work when frozen water first starts to thaw? 2) Is there any concern or might it be an advantage to run the 2" discharge into an existing 4" drain pipe already running to the street or is it better to simply run the 2" all the way to the street? Thank you again!
Really need to put a PVC valve in the line right above the check valve. If you have it there, you can unplug the pumps power cord, then shut off the valve in the output line to service on the pump, replace the check valve, etc., without all the water in the output line sloshing back all over you and the floor. Do it...it only costs about $6.
Just replaced a sump pump, wish I would have seen this comment first. Would have prevented a future mess. Maybe next time I replace it which hopefully is many years. Although, there is the risk someone being dumb and accidentally turning it
Your videos motivated us to install our own French drain and pump. However when we get a lot of rain, the pump seems to get overwhelmed. It continues to pump, but it doesn't seem as if it is moving as much water. We have the weep holes drilled correctly, and it works wonderfully until we get a lot of rain and the pit is flooded. It is not air locked, we had that happen once. It is a zoeller 1/2 contractor grade. Any ideas?
Do you have to replace everything if you’re pump stops working? Like the pvc pipe, check valve. Or can I just replace the pump itself? I’m currently dealing with this. Please and thanks for any advice.
I rerouted my sump pump drain as I didn't like the existing configuration. It had no check valve and did not slope down at all, so water never actually made it out the end, it just sat in the pipe. I used these instructions. I added the check valve that looks just like yours. Everthing is great, except the check valve is leaking right out the square middle part. Luckily it goes right back into the pump basin, and my sump doesn't run much. Should I assume that I just got a bad checkvalve from Lowes?
great video, my only question is what if you are installing the sump pump on the exterior of the house against the foundation and your trench is roughly 5'-0" deep what would you recommend as a sump pump liner/basin? ...thanks
You should not be connecting continuous pipe to underground drains. Freeze and clogs will flood your basement or crawlspace. Once you go max vertical it should be a gravity drain to the exterior and then drop into an underground drain if that is what you have. Most important is that it drops from an air gap pipe to your underground drain pipe to eliminate any freeze or clog concerns. 101 on sump pumps!
I have a zoeller pump as part of my septic tank. Do those tend to last long? It's either a 1/3hp or 1/2hp. The first one burned up from a burst pipe close to the pump that had it running most the time.
Enjoy your videos. I am installing a sump in a wet spot in my yard. I am in a cold climate. Should I be concerned about the water freezing in my pump discharge line in the winter? Is there something to prevent this from happening?
Zoeller recommends a 3/16" vent hole in the discharge pipe between the check valve and pump. Also I would have positioned the discharge pipe close to the edge so you can drill a hole with an opening so you can remove the cover if you need to do anything in the pit. The way you did it you need to disconnect the check valve and will get water all over if it is installed in the basement.
Do professionals typically drill the vent hole? I know Zoeller mentions to do this, but this was not done for my previous Zoeller pump. And I just recently replaced it for the first time, but skipped the vent hole (since the pump already has one). Plus it just seems silly to have water spraying back into the pump when you're trying to discharge it.
Will a sump pump installed in a concrete basement, where there was no sump pump originally and therefore no interior drain tiles, work properly with just 1/4" holes drilled in the wall of the sump so that hydrostatic rising water will seep into sump through the under floor gravel?
Love guys like you. A real professional who is willing to share his experience and knowledge all in the name of helping others. Your calm, matter-of-fact delivery is absolutely perfect. Great video. Thank you.
I always never comment on these videos but your video was absolutely perfectly explained from beginning to end. I'm a contractor by trade but never installed a sump pump before and after watching your video I feel comfortable enough to attack the project without any hesitation. Thank you very much for your help. Blessings brother🙏🙏
Hey Chuck! I MUST, MUST #THANKYOU A MILLION TIMES... FOR THIS VIDEO. I watched this video many times, to get your directions correctly. I purchase my sump pump at HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS where I work (I'm a girl/female), then I INSTALL IT, I DID IT MYSELF. #NotkiddingYou... IT WORKS!!! I DID IT RIGHT. My basement flooded in Oct 03, 2016. I had to remove the carpet myself IMMEDIATELY... knowing it must had been flooded for 3 days (I was out of town) when I return and I found out, by coincidence. I usually don't go to the basement. IS A NEW BUILT HOME, BUT IT SEEMS THE SELLER DIDN'T INSTALLED A SUMP PUMP, THE PIT WAS EMPTY! That's how it got flooded. Well, just last "MONDAY" I installed the sump pump myself... and IS RAINING HEAVILY HERE IN VIRGINIA (Quantico MCB area). And I can hear the pump working and I can see the water gouging OUT, of the back of the house. TRULY... YOUR ADVICE AND VIDEO.... TOTALLY HELPED ME DO IT AND SAVE ABOUT $500 BUCKS. #THANKS
So you waited years to install pump after you found out you didn't have one?
Can’t help but watch the whole video even when I know what I am doing. You have a natural charisma about you and easy to watch videos. Very friendly and enjoyable.
What a nice guy. Love that motivation at the end.
Thank you for showing us this how to do video...
watch your video can see how happy you are living your life and that great, wish you joy and happiness and good health for the rest of your life and finance to cushion it
I congratulate people like you, doing the right thing
The big plug you sawed off at the beginning is not a discharge hole, but the inlet that lets water come into the crock/ pit. Great video.
Why we don't meet guys like you in our real life, thanks Chuck for making this video.
This is a great DIY video it helped me save $400 by buying a new sump pump from a local supplier and going to my local Lowe’s and getting a new Check Valve for $13. I would recommend watching the video two or three times to get the steps down packed
You make it sound easy. Forgetting that it takes a lot of work to put all the supporting pieces in place. Nevermind the digging and cement work. This is more like an infomercial.
Thank you so much for inspiring me, the choice to give people the knowledge is very nice and unselfish of you God bless!
You would make a great teacher.perfect step by step video y watched over 20 videos and yours is the only one that showed and explained everything perfectly.
what a great guy...I dont need a Sump Pump. but I could not help watching this Great Vid. thanks for posting
Helping my buddy take care of his crawl space issues. Thanks. Love the positive message. !!❤️
The words of wisdom at the end was great too, thanks.
This was a great video. Not only was it actually helpful, but your message at the end really helped and persuaded me to try this myself. Great motivation, thank you Chuck!
Very helpful and encouraging. Thanks Chuck.
Such a good video and a nice man. I checked recent videos as this one is pretty old now. Glad you are still at it. Be well Chuck.
Thanks very much for the instruction. Really appreciate how positive you are about such a messy business.
Watching your videos and how you explain the process makes it look easy. I believe I could do it. Thanks!
Great Video and I really liked the added inspirational touch "If you believe you can do something, I guarantee you can do it"
I used this and a French drain and it all works great! Thank you so much again.
Hey Chuck... thanks for sharing all this expertise. I really do appreciate it. Thank you.
Well done sir. One suggestion I have is a step I use and I highly recommend. Place a concrete slab, brick, block under the pump.
Why do you do that?
@@shanefrank3281 so if for some reason the inlets allowing water into the basin get clogged, the whole basin doesn't float. Also debris collects at the bottom of the basin, if you have a brick under the pump its less likely to ingest trash.
That seems like it would raise the bottom of the pump and allow more water to accumulate before pump in activated.
Thanks Chuck. You're a great instructor!
Thanks, great video, Chuck. I'm a homeowner with two sump pits, water ingress almost constantly, and can vouch for Zoeller. If one has a constant seeping, ingress situation, and during storms large amount of ingress, I'd recommend the 1/2 hp Zoeller M98 rather than the 1/3 hp M53. The larger one uses not much more electricity, costs only about $70 more, and clears the sump pit more quickly during heavy ingress from storms to prevent the sump not being able to keep up. If a homeowner has little ingress, the 1/3 hp is fine. Zoeller is the best, but we have replaced ours about every three to four years for little things; for instance, once the on/off switch was stuck on (the float was not stuck) and the pump ran constantly. So, be sure to check your sump pump routinely (thus, the pit cover silicone sealed down, as some contractors do for radon minimizing, is not a good idea; you have to be able to lift it to look at the sump pump every couple of months). Anyhow, I'm not an expert, I just have a wet-wet basement :-(
+coolkayaker1 Oh, and in this video, it appears that Chuck is not using a Zoeller check valve; why, I do not know, as the Zoeller check valves are the best (trust me, I tried others) and Chuck likes Zoeller. I use only Zoeller check valves now, and they need to be replaced every couple of years. If/when the start to leak back, water will re-enter your sump pit slowly when the pump is idle, and it will have to pump more frequently than it should as the pit slowly fills up again from backflow. A new Zoeller check valve is about fifteen bucks (do not buy the cheapies at big box stores) and, since the sump pump does not need to be removed, it takes about five minutes and only a screwdriver to replace the check valve. :-) Lessons I learned the hard way. lol.
+The Cool One How about the weep hole question?
@@Burps___ I know it's been a while, but hopefully you're still getting notifications about replies to this comment.
I have a Zoeller pump and check valve in my basement. I'm not sure of their age or the pump's model, but the house is 34-ish years old and I've been here about 4.5 years, so they are somewhere between 5 and 35 years old. :-) Maybe Chuck did the install.
There's no squeal from the pump bearings and it doesn't run terribly often. I'm in Ohio, so we get all the weather - hot, cold, dry, and swampy. Sometimes it all happens in the same day.
I'm not TOO concerned about the pump, and if Chuck has installed them for 30 years and never replaced one of the ones he installed, then wow I have nothing to worry about. That said, I'm still a worrier.
I can hear my pump when it is running. If I'm quiet when it is wet outside, I'll hear a light hummmmm for 15-25 seconds, then a cachunk and silence, and then I'll go back to sleep.
How did you tell that the check valve was starting to leak back? Did you hear it running, stop, and then suddenly restart?
@@Burps___
, IS A WEEP HOLE NESCESSARY ?
@@ahaning I’m so sorry that I just got to see your nice message now, when I got notified about a different comment. UA-cam! I live in IL, much like OH. I could tell the check valve was back-leaking only when I noticed that, under same environmental conditions, the sump kicked on more than it did previously. For instance, if it was super dry for a week, and yet the sump kicked on (and likely did other times that I didn’t hear), then it was back-leaking for me only bc I know in the past that dry spells got no sump use, it was static. Gentle rain, used to be sump on every 30 minutes (I live in wet area), but now similar rain yet pump in every 20 minutes, you get the drift. It’s so easy to wait until dry time weather, unplug the sump pump, gently unscrew the collars on the Zoeller check valve and replace it, that it’s worth doing. Why? Even if the pump must run, say, 10% more than it should due to back leak, that’ll burn out the pump sooner, abd a pump is $300, so costs $30 value instead of a $15 backflow value and ten minute job…not to mention if the sump fails early could be thousands in basement damage. I write date I installed the check valve on it, and know that I need to replace it every three years or so for my frequency of pumping. My friend, a plumber, told me to keep a fresh new check valve of the proper size in the basement at all times, because if the valve ever has a failure (crack, leakage, etc) during a storm, it could be catastrophic backflow so I’d be in there wet as a dog but at least be able to swap it immediately. Hope that helps, but by now you likely have already changed yours. If not, how can you sleep at night!? Just kidding. lol
You did many good things for people! Thanks 🙏
Love this video is the best among the video have watched for help on sump pump
So useful! The only addition I have is a coupling on the top to connect elbow to the discharge pipe. This coupling has come off twice due to high pressure.
Thanks Chuck !! You are an awesome teacher.
dude I’ve watched so many of your videos. I appreciate what you do
Love this educational video. Simple & clear explanation…THANK YOU SIR. 🙏🙏🙏
Do you drill vent hole in main discharge pipe just below lid? to help with air lock?
Hey nicely made video here. You make it really easy to understand.
Always appreciate it when people go out of there way to share what they know! Salute
Thanks for taking the time for this video!
Your videos give me confidence on doing my own sump pump. Awesome information , thanks for the videos brotha
Chuck, this Zoeller 53 pump looks a lot better to me for one big reason. The float switch is directly wired into the pump which makes it a heck of a lot easier for me to wire with a standard 12-2 line running out to the pump. I want to cut the plug off and direct wire this in to my line so I can water proof everything and hide the cables in a box. With most pumps I find a float switch having it's own wire and this complicates things. It's not impossible to wire it's just more complicated dealing with two lines. I prefer this pump because it's just got one electrical line to deal with. To me this is worth the extra money because it makes the installation so much easier. BTW this is for an outside underground sump application, not in my basement and that is why I want to direct wire in the pump.
You forgot to mention the 3/16 weep hole drilled level with the top of the pump on the discharge pipe.other then that.. great video.
Newbie question why?
@@71sed8edmc19 when the pump stops it allows the water to drain out from the check valve to the hole drilled so when the pump starts again it doesn’t have so much pressure to work against to get the water going again.(So I was told from a master plumber)
@@Robertz37 the pump he is using appears to have one already built into the pump housing I'm not that familiar with the particular model to know for sure but if that is the case there is no need for the hole in the pipe
Actually weep hole should be drilled right above the threads on check valve right at bottom of discharge to prevent vapor locking….. u want discharge pipe to live with water in it….. I’m a basement waterproofer for past 10yrs
@@lrtlar18please help me understand you better. On the discharge pipe itself below the level of the check valve drill a 3/16 hole? My check valve is 4’ up in height. Should re plumb it to be just a few inches above the pit like this gentleman did? Thank you
Thank you sooo sooo much
Very informative video ,
Now I learned something thumbs up 👍🏻 for u man.
Now I can install a new sim pump in case of broken .
Thanks for u bro.
Man you are very good thank you so much for all your hard work and details
Great Video's Chuck. Bought my M53 and zoeller check-valve. Installed them using your instructions. Thank you very much for your excellent video posts.
That is great. Thank you for that video, really explains it well.
Really great video. Very professional
I live right next to a river and my pump runs every 30 seconds for a short time to remove the constant water flowing into the pit. Every 3 years i have to replace my pump. I'm on my 3rd pump since i've moved in. Do you know of any pumps that are made to be running constintly? I understand if they are 300-400$ each. I've tried 3 different brands but no luck.
Loved the video. Simple and easy to understand.
This is a great instructional video, but I have had to replace our Zoeller sump pump twice in five years. This is an older video and they definitely don't make them like they used to. You also did not mention drilling the required 3/16" pressure relief hole in the discharge pipe, inside of the sump pit, below the check valve.
Just replaced my 15 year old crawl space pump with a Zoeller 1/3 hp pump. That’s not good to hear about replacing two pumps in five years. The pump instructions do point out the 3/16 inch vent hole as you had mentioned. Things like that have not changed in seven years, surprised he did not mention that.
There is also an article out there that the one-and-only, Bob Vila rates the Zoeller 1/3hp sump pump, the Best Submersible Pump. My guess on both of these opinions, is that they were influenced by money. My first-hand experience with Zoeller is that one pump failed under the two-year warranty and the second one (which was installed by the same master plumber) failed in 2 ½ years (so, out of warranty.) I installed a Little Giant Select Series ¾hp Sump Pump and I'll see how it compares.
Does it have to be fed by something like French drain or can it be filled with just the water that’s under the concrete slab of the basement floor?
Hey you didn't add a whelp hole to the discharge pipe. The whelp must be added just above the sump pump. Failure to do so will void the warranty on most sump pumps and sewage ejection pumps. Oh and its in the instruction manual.
Kudos to the inventors of the sump pump drainage concept
You're a great instructor
Are theses Zoeller pumps available to buy in Europe? Are there similar ones, with these float system? This system is great because it won't get stuck
Fantastic source of information. Thank you!
Are these pumps system better? I mean is it better than having a free boie? My pump's boie is always jamming
Great explanative video thank you.
Wonderful video sir. total mastery.
Very Professional and kind. thank you!
I always use a hacksaw when holding something on my leg… luckily I still have one leg left.
I've watched several of your videos and echo what many have said: you are a gift to so many and are highly appreciated. You do a wonderful job and are helping so many people. I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping you can help with:
1) I live in MO and we get some cold temperatures and freezing in the winter. Is there any concern in installing the sump pump and related 2" piping outside with freezing in the winter? Do you need to worry about the pipes cracking? Will the pump and system work when frozen water first starts to thaw?
2) Is there any concern or might it be an advantage to run the 2" discharge into an existing 4" drain pipe already running to the street or is it better to simply run the 2" all the way to the street?
Thank you again!
Excellent explanation take care
I'm going to be setting up on outside. What do you recommend to prevent freezing in the winter.? Heat tape, remove for winter?
Thanks for the great video - very easy to follow.
Really need to put a PVC valve in the line right above the check valve. If you have it there, you can unplug the pumps power cord, then shut off the valve in the output line to service on the pump, replace the check valve, etc., without all the water in the output line sloshing back all over you and the floor. Do it...it only costs about $6.
Just replaced a sump pump, wish I would have seen this comment first. Would have prevented a future mess. Maybe next time I replace it which hopefully is many years. Although, there is the risk someone being dumb and accidentally turning it
Great video...open a plumbing school, you are a great teacher !!
Thanks! Great tip about freezing.
looks like a young Ric Flair....WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
Great job! I really love your quote @ 9:11
Love the video. Thanks!!
Good video!! What's the music at the end?
The blue jays were impressed i think. One question, you don't glue the check valve connections?
No hub bands hold check valve. Do not glue
Your videos motivated us to install our own French drain and pump. However when we get a lot of rain, the pump seems to get overwhelmed. It continues to pump, but it doesn't seem as if it is moving as much water. We have the weep holes drilled correctly, and it works wonderfully until we get a lot of rain and the pit is flooded. It is not air locked, we had that happen once. It is a zoeller 1/2 contractor grade. Any ideas?
Great video, thanks.
hey, great job on this. Thanks for sharing.
I've got to fit one of these in my living room floor so thanks for this great tutorial!
i have watched quite a few videos on this subject, and this one is the most informative of all of them.
Excellent video presentation
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Do you have to replace everything if you’re pump stops working? Like the pvc pipe, check valve. Or can I just replace the pump itself? I’m currently dealing with this. Please and thanks for any advice.
What about the seep hole question? chuck - do all Zoeller models need a seep hole?
I rerouted my sump pump drain as I didn't like the existing configuration. It had no check valve and did not slope down at all, so water never actually made it out the end, it just sat in the pipe. I used these instructions. I added the check valve that looks just like yours. Everthing is great, except the check valve is leaking right out the square middle part. Luckily it goes right back into the pump basin, and my sump doesn't run much. Should I assume that I just got a bad checkvalve from Lowes?
also, you don't mention a weep hole. (googling leaking checkvavle seems to indicate I may need that)
Perfect explanation!
thanks for sharing your tips. please continue and make more videos
great video, my only question is what if you are installing the sump pump on the exterior of the house against the foundation and your trench is roughly 5'-0" deep what would you recommend as a sump pump liner/basin? ...thanks
Have a link for the sump pump and check valve?
Great video but I kind of noticed you didn't say that you put a hole in the discharge pipe so that the water can get sucked out.
Nice very good explanation
You should not be connecting continuous pipe to underground drains. Freeze and clogs will flood your basement or crawlspace. Once you go max vertical it should be a gravity drain to the exterior and then drop into an underground drain if that is what you have. Most important is that it drops from an air gap pipe to your underground drain pipe to eliminate any freeze or clog concerns. 101 on sump pumps!
I'd hire you in a heartbeat Chuck!
I have a zoeller pump as part of my septic tank. Do those tend to last long? It's either a 1/3hp or 1/2hp. The first one burned up from a burst pipe close to the pump that had it running most the time.
Enjoy your videos. I am installing a sump in a wet spot in my yard. I am in a cold climate. Should I be concerned about the water freezing in my pump discharge line in the winter? Is there something to prevent this from happening?
Thanks for making this video!
Zoeller recommends a 3/16" vent hole in the discharge pipe between the check valve and pump. Also I would have positioned the discharge pipe close to the edge so you can drill a hole with an opening so you can remove the cover if you need to do anything in the pit. The way you did it you need to disconnect the check valve and will get water all over if it is installed in the basement.
Do professionals typically drill the vent hole? I know Zoeller mentions to do this, but this was not done for my previous Zoeller pump. And I just recently replaced it for the first time, but skipped the vent hole (since the pump already has one). Plus it just seems silly to have water spraying back into the pump when you're trying to discharge it.
Professionals in my area do. I always do with the manufacturer states. Also water going back into the pit is minimal
Boss great video easy and to the point a million gracias. Thank you. .....
Thank you!!! Excellent video. Gave me the confidence to change the pump by myself :-)
I live in Oregon thanks for your great videos.
if you put the check valve right over the lid, you may have trouble getting the lid off
it'll freeze right above the check valve at the wall line.. not if...when..
Put in a union between the lid and the check valve.
Do you need to waterproof the cord in any way? A sleeve or something?
Will a sump pump installed in a concrete basement, where there was no sump pump originally and therefore no interior drain tiles, work properly with just 1/4" holes drilled in the wall of the sump so that hydrostatic rising water will seep into sump through the under floor gravel?
How deep does the outside 2in pipe need to be under ground and does it need a pitch if it is only for the sump pump not for down spots
What a great how to video! Thanks a lot for this!