K24 CHEAP INTAKE MANIFOLD MODS HOW TO SAVE MONEY EASILY
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- Опубліковано 31 січ 2022
- In this video I go through the necessary steps you should consider when buying eBay intake manifolds
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I'm based in Melbourne and have been into the car scene for 25
years now, I've seen drifting come and go I've seen Silvia's and skylines go from being worth $40k down to $4k and now back up to $80k for a Rough example, I sold new cars for Nissan for 14 years and its safe to say I have NISSAN BLOOD running through my veins yet here I am being unable to afford the cars I once had which has turned me to becoming a "HONDA BOI" I have to say they are great cars I love learning about them and lets face it value for money they are ridiculously fast!
Check below to see my car resume:
*1991 Nissan Pulsar N14 SSS- 118kW not raced
*1996 Nissan Silvia S14 200sx -220kW 13.0@109mph
*1990 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR- 350kW 12.0@118mph
*1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR- 520kW 11.0@127mph
*2015 Nissan Pulsar C12 SSS- 200kW 14.0@104mph
*1998 Honda Civic EK sedan 150kW-TBA stay tuned
*1987 Holden VL Commodore RB30ET Goal 300kW
*2000 Honda Civic Ek -Full Build Budget Street/Track Car
*Toyota SW20 MR2 2GR V6 swapped Street/ Track all rounder
*1990 BMW E30 318 M54b30 swap street car resto mod
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If you use a bit of candle wax on that flap wheel it will polish that perfectly and won't clog the wheel, and you can buy a proper burr for aluminium, it will rip off way more. The carbide burr your using will still work they just gum up really quickly, smoosh on candle wax or use wd40 on the burr you have
GREAT PRO TIP FROM THE MASTER THANKS AIDO
@@TURBOTRISTO Can use acid to eat the aluminum off the burr. Works quick and easy. If you have more than one just keep rotating them.
My China skunked 2 was pretty bad on the port matching , it's like the casting sand or tooling went wrong 🤣👍 gotta port them to make it worthwhile. I'm sure it would make less power if it was just thrown onto a stock engine ! It's a DIY manifold to save money . I'm not scared of a bit of work 💪
Me either man, the real skunks are the same who do you think makes them…
@@TURBOTRISTO i did all this and also cut off the water port, should i port the fuel injector hole like u did? I didn’t really touch it much other than gasket matching it perfectly. I’m not sure if it would be bad to take out more specifically on the injector area… you mention it at 7:04. If we could chat and i could send u pics/ videos of my current port job, it would be nice. I’m kinda worried since it’s a China2 😅😂
Great video! I bought the same one after I watched the video. I cut of the water section since I bought for my 02 RSX. I gasket matched the runners the same way I also did the throttle body side. I cut off the name plate part and all the extra chunks of meat. I got it nice and smooth painted it flat black. I also relocated the ABS hose to the underside of then manifold.
Nice bro! I’m glad I inspired you
Pls i want to see the finished product, I’ve considered shaving down the name plate part
I found your channel by mistake a few weeks ago by mistake after searching info for my EP1 D14Z6, One day when my channel grows I'll have the funds to do some stuff with it!
awesome man thank you if you haven't already please subscribe
Looking good bro… some people have zero idea when it comes to generic vs name brand….. f@@k all difference when it comes to cast..
Yup exactly
11:19 Captain planet has entered the chat
I will be recycling the engine, gear box, subframe & running the car on recycled corn stalks and sugar cane , this will be better for the planet than a Tesla
Belt sizes i cant give you the exact number but i can tell you with the EP3 Pulley you use a 7PK1320 without air con and a 7PK1640 with the pulley and air con. So 320mm difference. I'd just be chucking some string around it and checking. But my theory is if you take the stock CL9 one and minus 320mm it should be the size you want.
oh you might want to also check you wont have bonnet clearance issues with power steering. I know the hasport has dual height mounts... but lower is wayyy too low in my opinion and upper has hood clearance issues on my EG.
I have noticed that, i am not too worried about it I will cut it up if I need to
The Ebay d16 china manifolds are really bad like cheese and gasket doesn't line up the k20 one you have looks good out the box was not far off
It was ok no different to all the others , the last mxr d16 one I fitted was perfect
looking good bro
Thanks it’s complicated
Ohhh cheers 🍻🍻 from across the ditch 🇳🇿, hope you can make this a career 👍. Its tough work.
Thanks bruuuu ❤️❤️
Me too
You use Instagram? Or best method to chat with you? Be good to bounce some kswap info
@@jdmnuggets Facebook or email bro
Use some brake fluid on the carbite tips to keep it from clogging up. Try it and let me know what u think
Will do brother thanks for tip
pretty good aye
thanks mate, how have you been/ im in facebook jail sorry if you havent been able to get a hold of me
@@TURBOTRISTO all good brother. We know how to find you if we need too
get a k20 box so you can get it going , you can use the cheap mounts
I’m patient not in a rush I’ll do this one properley
@@TURBOTRISTO you just said you can only afford a 180 dollar manifold
@@fulledbyarm im allocating funds acording to priority and how much they matter, which is always my motto I dont believe in wasting money on top teir parts if you dont have to and I dont believing in doing everything cheaply as somethings you shouldnt skimp out on, like fuel and boost managment
i already have a k24 box
Thanks for the info on these. Been looking at buying one for my EP3 CTR (K20A2), and ultimately for use for a future K24 swap for the EP3. I haven't bought one yet, as they don't seem to have the channel cut in the throttle body mounting plate that matches the one for the IACV on the K20 throttle body - do you have to delete the IACV?
You don’t have to but I did
@@TURBOTRISTO I've just worked this out - if you use an manifold adapter plate for K20A throttle bodies (such as Tegiwa RRC or K-Tuned RBC/RRC etc), there is a built in air channel in the RRC/RBC adapter plate which allows the vacuum back in to the IACV port on the K20A throttle body :)
Also at 11:20 - that water jacket fitting is for the Idle Air Assist Valve (IAAV) which lets additional air bleed through to speed up cold starts etc (useful in UK where mines originally from, but not now in sunny WA). It used to always cause rev hunting on mine during warm up and quite a few other UKDM CTR's. When I cleaned out the IACV, I also put in the K-tuned IAAV delete kit which plugs this off. It now cold idles like a dream.
That fitting is not integral to a K20A manifold, and is housed in a separate fitting on the K20, which can be removed and included in this K24 style manifold
thanks heaps for the info man
Hey how did the eBay manifold hold up?? Did u see any improvement/gains over stock? eBay’s flooded with with these k24 intake manifolds rn I’m thinking bout grabbing one🤙
You lose power in an NA application with these but it’s not so crucial on a turbo application, it’s held up fine
*toyota avanza noises*
Noice
@@TURBOTRISTO check the car out on youtube, its one of the best car that toyota made for the southeast asian market, and Indonesia,
@@aki_xd4334 i sure will
minimal effort for the amount of money you saved bro
true
What other injectors would work on this manifold without modifying the injector hole? I wouldn’t mind an injector upgrade and also not needing to cut/ sand the manifold more than i already have 😂 running a regular eBay fuel rail with a an line
Any stock upgraded injectors should be fine
@@TURBOTRISTO I’m not sure what u mean. I got a 04 Acura tsx
@@user-hh4hc2lt6e SORRY STOCK SIZE AND LENGTH WITH UPGRADED FLOW,
@@TURBOTRISTO but didn’t you have to bore them out for the stock injectors to work? I’m confused ..? If not i guess I’ll have to bore them out. Trying to use stock injectors
barely i just put a drill bit in there to clean up the casting, I cant remember its been a minute since i shot that vid
Also do you have the specific person or company you bought this off or are they all the same
they are all the same
How did this manifold work out in the end stock rbc prices are killer
this manifold is ONLY worth it if you turbo your car and you correctly port it to match the factory ports and to clean out the casting slag inside,
if you want to run NA you should never use this or any skunk 2 manifolds, they actually don't make any more power, the top end is exactly the same as stock and the mid range you actually loose more than 20kw in the midrange
Pm BYP for mounts
got hasport hooking me up
I have 2007 tsx it says it will fit but the throttle body don't match up this manifold is a joke
There is an adaptor to buy
It’s the same as skunk 2
Whats ur bay paint code?
Bunnings squirts
How is this manifold holding up? I’m considering buying one is it worth it?
Just fine actually no issues
What’s issues? Are you having @turbotristan?
i meant NO issues haha
Just bought one. Hope I have no issues. Gonna do the same porting you have done.