Legacy Series, Episode 5: Tom Hornbein
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- Опубліковано 24 вер 2020
- A passion-project of AAC Past President Jim McCarthy and Tom Hornbein-themselves mountaineering legends by any standard-the American Alpine Club’s Legacy Series pays tribute to the visionary climbers who made the sport what it is today and stands as a commitment to securing their legacies.
Episode Five: Tom Hornbein
Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld 1963 ascent of the West Ridge of Everest has been described as “one of the most extraordinary accomplishments in the history of mountaineering… among the grandest adventures imaginable,'‘ by Jon Krakauer. More importantly, their ascent ushered in the modern era of mountaineering, where ascents are made fast and light, focusing more on the intrinsic value of the route than the summit itself.
RIP Godspeed 🙏
Legend
In 1963, I was a sophomore in high at about that time when a young man begins to wonder what to do with his life. When I saw the Americans on Everest, I knew. A couple of other snotty-nose kids and I hung around the university climbing club until a grad student took us under his wing and got us involved in classes, much to the dismay of the "big boy" upper classmen. By the time we had graduated from high school we were pretty accomplished and went on to some some very fine climbing for some 20 years. Tom Hornbein and I share a similar body built and he was a BIG influence on my life. Thank you, Tom. PS. I'm 75 now and working hard to dial back the angle of attack on my mountain adventures.
Tom & Willi were my childhood heroes, and remain so to this day. I recall the cover of NatGeo --- I was 7 years old when they pulled this off. When "Everest: West Ridge" came out I read it cover to cover and soaked in every picture, for years! It still sits on my shelf. Safe to say that my life of climbing was hugely influenced by these two climbers and Tom's wonderful book. Tom is a shining and humble example of a life lived with clarity and purpose, on and off the hills.
To date, I believe this is the greatest American mountaineering feat. I know there are harder routes out there and the commitment is the same for those who climb them. But in 1963, with the technology and resources, climbing the West Ridge stands the test of time. It's the only route that interests me as a climber on Everest. I'm glad we had Hornbein and Unsoeld climbing for America. Willi died of course on Rainier 16 years later. But what those guys did will forever be what inspires me to climb.
He's my great grandpa
I am currently reading his book about his climb of Everest's west ridge in 1963.
I can’t over state my admiration for these young “hard men” of the 50’s and 60’s. They have inspired me for over 50 years.
These videos are SOOOO cool and inspiring!! Thank you so much for thinking of doing this, AAC. Stoked to be supporting efforts like this with my membership.
Did they climb with Sherpas?